Manual air compressor

I had this idea just drop on me a few minutes ago and I was wondering if anyone could give me some feedback on if something like this would be feasible or not. Also if anyone thinks it's a good idea just go ahead and build it because I dont have the tools or space for something like this in any case. The idea is to have some sort of tank with a large internal volume, cut it of at the top and arrange a sort of secured piston with a heavy weight on top, attach it all to a frame so that the piston stays level and secure. The piston with the weight on can then be connected to a multi-stage pulley system to allow one to lift the  heavy weigth, sure it would take a long time but for a manual air compressor it should be feasible Then at the bottom of the tank one would have a high pressure release valve with some sort of standard connector for transfering the compressed air to a sort of pressure tank for use. I never saw anything like this before, although I'm sure someone must have done it at one point or another. So what do you all think? Any input?

Posted by wolty 7 years ago


Air tank testing

I have recently acquired a 25 litre compressor on which the motor was seized so my plan is to replace the motor and pump with a couple of fridge compressors however the tank is more than 10 years old and although I cannot see any damage is their anyway to check it is safe to pressurize to 8 bar? it has 175PSI stamped on it so I assume its designed with that as the maximum working pressure but I want to know if I can get it checked as I don't want to blow myself and my garage apart if it bursts I'm in the UK

Posted by patrickshadow 5 years ago


Useful parts in mini fridge?

Hi folks, ive got a small, fully functional mini fridge that I have no direct use for. I am either going to donate the thing via Craigslist or free cycle, but was wondering what parts and things might be salvaged out of the thing and re-applied towards other projects? What has been your experience with things like this?

Posted by WayneEarl 5 years ago


Net Gun

Hey instructables, I haven't been on in a while but I am back and looking for someone to give me some advice. In my class, we are playing a castle crashers type game where we have to design a device that will remove all of the foam blocks from the area provided. I came up with an idea that utilizes air pressure to propel the net forward with a decent amount of force. However, I am running into an issue in finding a feasible way to store the pressure provided from me pumping a bike pump, and releasing it to propel the net. I was interested in using a rubber bladder to contain the air pumped into it, and releasing the air on command (start button). I can't use an actual compressor unit as it must be human or battery powered, and it must fit in a 2'x2' space and can't reach more than 5' tall. Any ideas as to where or how I might create a bladder would be greatly appreciated!

Posted by piddle01 5 years ago


What lubricant to refill a fridge compressor with?

Hey all, I just grabbed a compressor from a fridge that had been badly mangled by a bulldozer at a demolition site, planning to make a vacuum pump or airbrush compressor (or both!) Trouble is, I thought the liquid it contained was leftover refrigerant, and drained it all out. I didn't really have a choice, as leftover freon was gassing out of the compressor (thought it had lost pressure, but there was still a little in the compressor) and it was sputtering the oil everywhere. I held it upside down while carrying it home, and when I got it here, it was apparently empty. Then I found out that what I poured out wasn't liquid freon, but actually vital oil that keeps it alive. The compressor runs fine, but I only tried it for a few seconds for fear of destruction. I have many lubricants here, motor oil, 2-stroke oil, bike chain oil, etc. If I'm to dump an oil into my compressor, any ideas on which is the best call, and roughly how much should it take?

Posted by Rectifier 10 years ago


Can You make High Pressure Water Washer with an Air Compressor?

Hey Guys, Any one have experience with fluids? Is it possible to build a device that would take high pressure air from an air compressor and from that make at least a mediocre respectablely powered washer? I'm thinking about buying a small air compressor and and looking to see if i can use it for other things as well. Thanks! JP

Posted by jpl500 10 years ago


Jet engine parts

Hi Guys Can anyone please help me. I have recently purchased a few parts for a jet engine off ebay as a possible project but can't find what engine they may have came off.  The combustion chamber is different to what you see in smaller rc jet engine. The turbine wheel blades are dove tailed like on bigger jets and the compressor wheel has an inducer of around 95mm. I would imagine if this could ever run again it would produce a serious amount of thrust. I have uploaded some photos and would be grateful of any help.  

Posted by hughes674 4 years ago


Hurricane balls and tornado ball with air compressor

This is a video of me spinning up hurricane balls with an air compressor. I have gotten them faster (I estimate this run got up to about 10,000rpm) but it is still very cool. The second part of the video is some random thing I made when I was bored. It just spins a marble really fast inside the container. I know it's not very exciting :P haha please comment and rate! hm...the video won't embed so just go here.

Posted by Electroinnovation 7 years ago


Airbrush compressor TC-20, how many watts???

Hi guys, i recently bought a mini compressor for cake decorating. Its a "ABD TC-20" and i bought it at TCPglobal. Problem is, i dont know how many Watts it uses! You see, i bought it as a pressent for my wife. "Nice? Yes!" "Bought with my nose and not my brain? Yes! Im living in Holland, and our network works on 220volt at 50Hz. The compressor i bought works on american standerd, 110volt at 60hz. So i need a converter to make the machine work without frying its circuits... If i buy a converter specificaly for this machine, it has to have the right amount of Watts. i know, i can buy a converter that handles Watts in the range of 1000Watts, cuzz more watts on a converter is better, but than i'd have to buy one thats quite expensive. Because if the compressor only uses, lets say, 50 watts, i could buy one that has a max of about 100 / 150 for a waaaay lesser price than the one thats more powerfull. It would be 50EU for the smaller converter against 200EU or more for the bigger one. So, if you happen to know something on this subject, i would be more than happy with any info you've got ;-) greets! P.S. At the moment i wrote this, the package is stil on its way from america to my house. So i dont have a box or machine sticker to sneak the info i need from...

Posted by AriedeB 5 years ago


I want a power outlet that automatically shuts off after a period of time.

I want a device to plug my air compressor into that shuts off the power if the compressor runs for more than 20 minutes at a time. I leave my air compressor on and I am afraid that a leak will develop or a hose will burst leaving my compressor to run hours or days before I find it. I want it to sense when the air compressor starts pulling power and starts a timer. If the compressor is still running when the timer reaches either a preset time of around 20 minutes or an adjustable time, the power to the compressor is shut off until it is manually reset. My compressor is 110 volts and I live in the United States. Maybe such a thing exists but I haven't been able to find it. Thanks for your help, Kris

Posted by kingmanson 3 years ago


Compressor-free refrigerator may loom in the future

. From Compressor-free refrigerator may loom in the future at Penn State Engineering via Slashdot:University Park, Pa. - Refrigerators and other cooling devices may one day lose their compressors and coils of piping and become solid state, according to Penn State researchers who are investigating electrically induced heat effects of some ferroelectric polymers."This is the first step in the development of an electric field refrigeration unit," says Qiming Zhang, distinguished professor of electrical engineering. "For the future, we can envision a flat panel refrigerator. No more coils, no more compressors, just solid polymer with appropriate heat exchangers."

Posted by NachoMahma 10 years ago


Spring powered internal air compressor

Hello everyone, I've come here for some help on designing a PVC-based air tank. I'm planning on building a pneumatic cannon that I can charge once and use to fire multiple short bursts of air. To do I decided to have two tanks -one large tank acting as the main tank and a local tank with a much smaller volume fed by the main. My problem is that I want to squeeze out all the air I can from the main tank, and I'm not entirely sure what the best way to do that would be. My current design uses a spring behind a wooden plunger so that as the volume of compressed air drops, the spring can extend and restore the pressure. (Image attached for clarity) Can anyone spot potential problem areas or places that could be improved?

Posted by Ninja Togo 4 years ago


Please help, need advice for installing engineered hardwood floors?

Hi, I recently purchased some 3/8th Bruce engineered hardwood flooring, and was planning on purchasing a staple gun to install the flooring (like I needed a reason for a new toy!), what gauge stapler would you all recommend? Bruce doesn't have specific instructions, it just says the staples should be at least 1 inch long.  I've heard if you buy too big a staple (15.5 gauge), it will cause issues with bumps in the flooring, but I'm afraid if I get too small a staple then it may not attach properly. Please help! As a side note, how big an air compressor would you all recommend?  I was planning on getting a 6gal, 2.6 scfm at 90 psi compressor, and just want to make sure it will have enough power.

Posted by JMH renovations 5 years ago


What fittings can I connect together (building an air compressor) ?

Hi, I'm building an air compressor out of fridge compressors, propane tanks and NPT fittings from ebay, everything was cool until I received a check valve I ordered before all the other stuff (because it was from another seller so no need for a group order :) for one item). So I ordered a 1/8 female/female check valve (one way valve), and I measured the diameter with calipers, and it's not 1/8" (3.2mm) but a lot more, which makes sense, 3mm would be really tiny so now I don't understand how all of that works here are the fittings that will compose the system (those are 1/2 I guess but I will order 1/4 and 1/8 as well to make the complete circuit (around 20 fittings total): http://www.ebay.com/itm/281299625853 here is the check valve I already ordered (1/8 BSPP): http://www.ebay.com/itm/182025682762 I also noticed the valve is linear while the fittings appear to be the shape of a cone, will it matter ? Thanks in advance for any help ;)

Posted by nazmo76 2 years ago


Help with Refrigeration for a (Very) Custom Bar Top

The gist of this question is this: How do I calculate the size compressor rig that I need for a cooling system? The larger context is this: I am building a bar in my living room that has some special features - Namely it has a "cold strip" running across the top of the bar - which amounts to a 4 inch wide strip of chilled copped built into the bar top- to keep your drink cold; as well as two vodka wells - which each hold a bottle of vodka in a frozen bath of (cheaper) vodka (under a glass dome). The bar top is made of Styrofoam and composite materials (I used to make Surfboards) and is basically seamless. The copper tubing will be built into the bar top - under the composite and soldered to a copper plate - which is built into the composite.... you get the picture. I have built "frozen" sculptures in the past using old fridges that I have disassembled and then re tubed. In the past I have always just winged the amount of tubing I used and thus far - have gotten away with it, and the sculptures have always worked. This time though I am buying the compressor new and want to match the unit to the need - but I have no idea how to calculate the needed compressor to the job. Any help would be great. Thanks! And Yes, I will post the Instructable when the bar is completed. :)

Posted by Rogue Gourmet 10 years ago


Reuse, Repurpose Instructables Ideas for Air Compressor

I came up on a broken air compressor where basically it is a functioning electric belt driven pump.  Does anyone have any suggestions what I can do with that thing? It also has the mini tank with it. 

Posted by Chingasman 7 years ago


Propane in air compressor hose

Does anyone know how a regular (150psi rated) air hose will stand up to propane? I'm curious as to whether it would dissolve it.

Posted by Hegemone 10 years ago


Danger in separating compressor head from tank?

Wasn't sure where else to put this, I'm trying to turn an old ambulance into a shop truck and I'd like to use the stock giant O2 tanks on the side as the reservoir for pneumatic tools. How dangerous would it be to rig the compressor head somewhere else in the truck and pipe the air to the tanks? I'd of course include a pressure release valve and some sort of cup to catch moisture since these tanks wouldn't have a bottom valve (though I doubt a full on air dryer would be practical). I was hoping to use flexible tubing to run the air but I doubt that would be safe at tank pressure. Would black iron and pipe tape be enough? Am I setting myself up for a world of hurt? These tanks would be powering pneumatic tools and possibly a media blaster, thanks for any advice, Mac

Posted by Macinations 4 years ago


Looking for a cheap compressor with a high pressure rating or for airbrush use?

Today a friend of mine asked me if I know a way to reduce the noise level of his compressor in the work shed. With the current heat he prefers to work in the evening and nights, which does not make his neighbours too happy. His main use for several airbrush guns and sometimes for mormal airtools or the big spray gun for an undercoat or similar. So his main concern is oil in the airline and the actual flow rate is of second concern as he has an old 25kg propane cyclinder as an additional air tank. For relative low air volumes I would suggest an old fridge compressor. With a thicker pipe at the outlet that is filled with stainless steel wool most of the oil stays in the compressor. That is if this pipe is a) long enough b) upright c) of sufficient diameter so there is enough for the oil to avoid it being pushed up A second, standard oil seperator will be enough for the oil level required for airbrush stuff - and most other things too. If there is no pressure regulator on the airbrush system it is best to add a small air tank and shut off valve for it. In our case however a fridge compressor would be just enough to keep the bigger airbrush gun running but not to fill the tank at the same time. Not to mention the problem of fluctuating pressure levels. Since we already had a tank and pressure shut off connected to the loud compressor it was only a matter of finding something that keeps the neighbours happy. The first thing we did was to check how often the compressor comes on and how long it runs till the tank is back to pressure. With that and the stated air volume on the compressor we guesstimated that something a bit bigger than the compressor of a window airconditioner should be sufficient. The search begins.... If you don't know what to look for I give you a few hints: Older airconditioners often run on R22 or R12 - both use quite high system pressures which is a bonus, but more on that later. As a rule of thumb for these compressors you cans say: the bigger the higher the flow rate. At the local wreckers and scrap yards we found a few units but noticed the bigger ones often used three phases and not just one :( So we opted for the R22 compressor of a 4.5kW unit. Keep in mind the 4.5kW is for the entire system, so the quite massive fans can be removed from the sum. Usually the compressor alone is the 2.5 - 3kW range. Ok, we found the big thing but how does this help us? First things first ;) The oil was removed as the housing stating the original oil amount. This allowed us to use an oil rated for air use that has little to no water absorption qualities - you don't want water in your compressor. With the usual heat the water should be no problem anyway. Next was a pressure test to make sure the thing actually still works, so we added some plumping in the form of standard connectors to the inlet and outlet. We got well above 200PSI and abondoned the test at this stage as it was more than enough already. The air volume seemd to be well more than expected too so let'S move to the next stage. A fridge or aircon compressor always needs to have a certain amount of oil in it as it will otherwise seize and overheat quickly. But they are also designed so that the oil mixes with the refrigerant to cool all moving parts. So the biggest hurdle is to make sure the oil stays where it should stay and won't enter or get lost in the tank. Only real option for this to use something to catch the oil that is capable of releasing it into the compressor once it shuts off. Now there are several options for this so I start with the most basic: A "catch can" will get most of the oil, especially if filled with stainless steel wool or similar. Downside is that you have to find a way to get it back into the compressor. A step better is a thicker pipe filled with stainless steel wool to catch the oil. If placed upright and the outgoing pipe can be bend a bit upwards you have a good chance that most of the oil will sweep through the valves and get back down into the compressor housing. But only too often the cheap or even free compressor is better than expected and the oil won't get back into the housing as the vlaves are just too good. The last and IMHO best option is a pressurised return system. Most compressors for bigger aircons have a seperate filling port or sealed off piece of pipe. In this case you can do a simple check to see if they are usable for our purposes. Open the port of pipe and use a simple bike bump or similar to get some pressure in it. With a dedicated oil filling port you are best off but they are hard to find. The air you pump in should come out of the high pressure side - you might need a little pressure to overcome the valves. If you hear any bubbling in the housing (use a pipe on your ear or a sensitive microphone) it means you are going through the oil inside the compressor - perfect! You might not hear any bubbling but the port or pipe is still usable. Get ready with your fingers and start the compressor. The fill pipe should be sucking air in, same for the service port if there is one. A dedicated oil port should not suck but instead force some oil up if you cover the high pressure outlet. I assume all is good and no oil is splashing out of the open pipe or port. Add a small amount of oil with a syringe or similar into the port/pipe. If you see an oil mist coming out of the high side it is bad news. Clean outlet air is good. To get the oil back from the catch pipe or can we have to add a hose or pipe with a needle valve. It needs to be adjusted so that there is only a very little airflow (or oil mist) coming out. This regulated outlet is now being connect to the port/pipe with a bit of suction that we found earlier. Now every time the compressor runs the collected oil is forced back into the compressor :) Please double check the port/pipe used is not directly connected to the intake port! The last thing you want is a puddle of oil going into the cylinder and damaging it! They are designed to move gas but not liquid! If in doubt use a hardened sttel nail or similar to create a small puncture in the top of the compressor housing if there is nothing else to use. Check first if the material sound very thick, if so it might help to drill with a 5 or 6mm drill first - only about 1mm to make sure you won't enter the housing and conimate it with metal shavings! Once you have a small puncture hole of about 2mm in diameter get some 2 component metal repair glue mix and add a suitable connection for the collecting pipe/can. If you feel up to it you can of course use a blow torch and solder the connection on. Now we have the compressor working with a oil return system that also gives up very little to no oil at all in our system. You might now think you are good to go but you should at least add a decent and fine filter to the air inlet ;) The compressor noise of a bigger system can still be an issue if thicker pipes are used that allow the noise to travel out. Keep in mind they usually run in a fully closed system.... As we only need to match the noise level of the compressor itself a solid steel can like an old fire extinguisher in the 1kg rage is a good way out. Fill it with filter wool and a fine filter pad after adding some hose connectors either end. You can misuse the trigger nozzle and keep it to seal the top if you braze a connector on it. If the intake here is about 5 times larger than the pipe connection to the compressor itself the air flow going into the thing is low enough for a cheap paper air filter can or box if you have a quite dusty enviroment to work with. The real trick is to have a hose or pipe on the inside of the fire extinguisher connected to the compressor pipe connection. A garden hose is great here as is reduces the noise quite good and is dirt cheap. Make a lot of about 2mm sized holes in this pipe and close the other end of it off. Now the compressor will suck it through the small holes and the soft garden hose reduces the noise, the surrounding padding brings it down to basically nothing. The special case of clean air for airbrush.... If you read this for the sole purpose of airbrush use then this chapter is just for you, all other might want to skip it. The two things you don't want to enter your gun is oil or water. Both are a common thing in normal compressors due to lubrication and pressure difference resulting in condensation of the humidity in the intake air. Oil free compressors of good quality can cost quite a few bucks and often require ongoing replacement of membranes or piston seals. A refrigeration compressor with the above modifications already provides clean enough air for most airbrush users if a proper tank is used to store enough of the compressed air. So you might just want to add a basic oil filter or very fine paper filter close to the regulator. For very detailed work with very sensitive paints you might want to build a filter box containing of several layers of oil absorbent paper. This stuff is often used in the industry to clean up minor oil spills and bind oil very well. A PVC pipe (pressure rated please) with 5-8 layers of filter screens should last about a lifetime before the filters need changing if the diameter is in the 10-15cm range. That leaves us with the dreaded problem of condensation and water contamination. Depending on the type of paint and gun used a small amount of water vapour is usually no problem. Solvent based paints usally show their disliking by unwanted drops or run offs caused by water droplets. Of course you just go and buy a professional dehumidifier and accept the ongoing replacement costs for the cartridges... But if you are in a climated that has above 30% humidity for most of the year than you will have to remove the water one way or the other. A big enough storage tank for the air that is upright usually helps to release any condensated water prior to usage. But if you use a homemade tank you might want to avoid this problem completely and forget about water in the system altogehter. Silaca gel is the answer here, specifically the indicating variety that changes color once "full". A spaghetti glas or similar should be big enough unless you are in a very humid climate - is so just use multiple in a row. The air intake side for the compressor has to go through the silica gel to be effictive. This mean we need two holes in the lid. One with a pipe or hose going all the way to the botom - that is the air intake side. The other right on the lid - this is the air outlet side which continues to the compressor intake. With the color change in the silica gel we can estimate how much usage we have left until we have to heat it up to remove the water. If this color change happens quite fast from the bottom to the top, let's say within three days or less than you really need to use more jars with silica gel in a row or a longer one - like using a long and clear acrylic pipe instead. Of course you can always just cut holes and "viewing glasses" along the length to a PVC pipe.... No matter how wet your climate is you want to get at least 100 hours of compressor run time before you need to recharge the silica gel. This brings us to the recharging.... Once the color changes and you only have about one quarter left to the top you want to get the water out of the gel and re-use it. To do this you simply heat it up in your oven to around 120-150°C - the supplier should state the max temp for this. If you use a gas oven or one with limited accuracy here it is best to stay within the 120° range. You need to stir and mix the gel or use something big enough like an oven tray. But be aware that these little balls are like glass! The roll and bounce like no tomorrow! IMHO it best to use an old cooking pot that has no plastic handles for this and not to overfill it. This allows for easy mixing without making a mess that might cause a bad trpping hazard on your kitchen floor tiles! Once the gel is back to original colr it is time to let it cool of to a safe temperature and to fill it back into our canister or pipe. Tanks and shut off systems.... We have a refrigeration compressor working for us, and since it was for R22 we can use much higher pressures as a simple compressor from the hardware store. The low pressure side is used to 70PSI or around 5Bar of pressure in normal working conditions. The high side often works at pressure in the range of 200-300PSI or 14-20Bar! The tank we used is a big propane tank that was restamped at some stage in his life for the use of LPG - so it was tested to quite high pressures. The lower pressure limit is what keeps the stored gas liquid at the given temperature. For Propane at an imaginary 30°C this would around 155PSI or 10Bar. The stamped test pressure, although outdated, showed 600PSI or around 40Bar of pressure with no problems - and the thing was thick in the walls... The old shut off switch from an old air compressor was adjustable after removing the safety cap with a bit of force and the help of few cold beer. With a little tank attached we adjusted it to turn the compressor off at 250PSI or around 17Bar of pressure. If your tank is old or has no test pressure stamped on do your own test in a safe location. Make sure the area is secured so there is no chance of debris from a brusting tank can go anywhere - this includes to chain down the tank itself ;) Use the aircon compressor to fill it up to 300PSI or 20Bar of pressure - this should be tolerated with ease by any propane or LPG tank. Shut the valves and let it rest for a day or so. It is best to do this in the early morning so the heat from the day will slightly increase the pressure. At the end you still want to have a working tank and no major pressure losses. All of our mods on this tank were done without actually harming the tank. This was possible as the original valve had a release port for filling purposes - as it standard on most refillable ones. Here we removed the valve and added a pressure guage instead - better to know what is happening than to assume things. As this "port" had a seperate connection to the bottom of the brass valve we added as T-connection to allow for the connection to the compressor. Just be be really sure a thin piece of copper tubing was brazed to the exit hole of this port so all incoming air will be going down and away from the outlet connection with the big shut off valve on top - which we use to actually isolate and close the tank when not it use. Last thing required was something to connect the pressure shut off switch and regulator to. That was the only major expense on this project as we had no old BBQ hose or similar to get a suitable connector to the tank. We bought a simple adapter for the use of smaller hoses and cut the unwanted bits off we there was only the bottle conntector with the nut left. After removing the rubber ring we brazed piece of copper pipe onto it. Here we drilled holes and fitted severy connectors. First for the pressure switch, then for the connection to the pressure regulator and two standard ones with a ball valve for air hose connections. One air hose connection female, the other male so a standard compressor can be connected as well or "backfilled" for additional and mobile storage use. As we wanted to avoid any reduction in the safety and burst pressure no release valve was added at the bottom on the tank. The added silica gel filter stage was used instead so no water will get into the system to begin with. Additionally, and painfully for me and me friend, the inside of the tank was coated with a layer of acrylic paint to prevent and rust as it was free from it when we checked it at the beginning. This involved filling a suitable amount of paint into it, closing the top while keeping the thread clean and then to move the tank around to cover the inside evenly. If you do this be prepared for some weird movements with your friends LOL Once we were sure all ust be covered by paint at least three times we released the exxess paint and allowed the inside to dry with the assistance of some air forced to go in with a length of pipe. This was repeated 3 times... Then another two just for the bottom third of it where there might be some moisture after all... Now you don't want to remove the brass valve with everything connected to it just to turn the tank over to releae the collected water. Instead we made sure the added pipe on the former relese port would go all the way to the bottom of the tank. If any water collection is suspected only the connection to the compressor needs an additional valve for the disconnection so the water will be force back out here. To make this easy and fast we used standard quick connectors and a piece of flexible airhose rated to 20bar of pressure for the connection to the compressor. We checked the performance of the moisture removal and oil removal only for a few hours of running time while priming some surface for later use. The compressor oil used was very smelly to say it nice but nothing coul be smelled in the first paper filter after the pressure regulator. To check for remaining moisture levels (65% humidity in the house) we used a 10m length of clear PVC tubing going through an ice bath. After 30 minutes of moderate air release there was no condensation on the inside of the tubing visible. Of course if you only need it for air supply and don't care about a bit of moisture and oil you can keep it simple ;) Benefits of doing such a stupid thing: For starters noise and the peace of mind that you can do a lot of airbrushing until the compressor needs to kick in again. Then of course the benefit of an almost silent system compared to a standard compressor - something you can actually tolerate while doing art. But the real deal is knowing YOU did it and you did it for cheap. Warnings and some advise... I know, it should be at the very beginning but I just hope you read till the end ;) If the compressor fails from overheating you are up for a new one. This means the tan size should be within the limits of what the compressor can handle - same for what you actually use on air. You want an empty tank to be filled before the compressor feels hot to touch - quite warm is fine but if you can't leave your hand on it then it is too hot. Same story for the usage. There is no point in using a tiny 10 liter storage tank if you need that capacity every few minutes. The compressor would only have little pauses and overheat quickly. You want a good balance of usage time before the tank goes below supply pressure and running time of the compressor to get it to full pressure again. This brings us to the safety of high pressures. Where possible only copper tubing or sufficiently rate hoses should be used, the later as short as possible to avoid them acting like a whip if something goes wrong. When it comes to the safety of the tank you want to make sure to stay withing it's rated limits. All benefits of a compressor capable of producing over 500PSI otr close to 35Bar is wasted if your tank and pressure regulator can't handle it. This must not mean that you try to use a gas cylinder of unknow age and pressure rating and assume it will work! If in doubt use a lower shut off pressure and stay within the limits of normal air compressors - which is around 120PSI or 8Bar. Never, ever use a tank that is compromised by inside rust or bad corrosion on the outside! If you don't know how to braze copper tubing, pipes and connectors then check out some of the great Instructables about it! Whenever you know you won't use any compressed air for more than a few hours close all valves especially the ones going back to the compressor on the high pressure side! Some compressors really don't like a huge pressure difference constantly pushing on the reed valves. If your tank is big enough to allow for more than one hour of operation before the compressor has to top it up you might want to consider a one way valve right on the compressor outlet. This will prevent any massive pressures going onto the valves - especially helpful for modern compressors that only rely on the sealing capabilities of the clyinders or rotary system used. One thing you should always consider is a pressure relief valve rated for about 50PSI more than your tank pressure - it can be added to the pipe ;) If the shut off valve ever fails the relief valve gives you the ease of mind that it will blow before your tank does. Maintenance... If modded correctly the compressor should stay in the compressor and the compressor itself should not overheat from use. Having said that your compressor might force out a little more than your best catch system can handle. If that becomes a problem it might help to use an oil with a lower viscosity. If all fails it just means you need to top up oil once the last last paper filter is filthy or use slightly more to begin with so the intervals are longer. The silica gel, if used should be recharged before all of it is wasted - no point in adding it if you use it once full of water. If no gel is used there will be water in the storage tank. Even with the added paint and a good air filter it is possible that nasty things grow in there. Making sure the tank is emptied of any water after long uses and again before the next use is good practise. If no pressure gauge is used on the tank you must make sure the shut off valve is always working fine and within set parameters. I strongly recommend using a gauge and if not to perform a pressure check of the system every now and then to confirm all is within parameters of normal operation. A compressor constantly running means you either use far too much air or you have a leak - same story if the compressos kicks in after some of forgetting to shut it off and close the valves. If you keep the above in mind the salvaged compressor should work just fine for many years to come. Troubleshooting and alternatives.... You put everything together the right way, double checked and something is till not right? Maybe my crystal ball helps me to find something... 1. Always oil coming through the catch system. It usually means you use too much of it. A salvaged compressor, if the refrigent was removed legally from the system should still have a "correct" level of oil inside. Too much oil would mean is being pumped through the system at an excessive rate. Very thin compressor oils tend to do that in the compressor is misude like we do. Changing to standard mineral oil can help here. As a last resort you can use a pressure gauge or good judgement to allow more flow through the needle valve from the catch system back to the compressor. Too much backflow here would mean we loose system pressure to the set level of this needle valve! 2. The R22 rated compressor seems to be unable to produce enough pressure. First do a leak test using soapy water to rule out any leaks. Do a back pressure test on the ports. If you can push air through them in the reverse way with ease it means the valves are damaged making the compressor useless. You need to replace it. A regular cause with our type of usage is a constand back pressure from the storage tank to the compressor. To prevent this it might help to mount an electric solenoid between the compressor and storage tank. Such valve should be off when the pressure switch is engaged and on when the pressure switch is disengaged. This prevents the coil from overheating but requires a "normally off" type of valve. A good source at the wreckers are cars with LPG systems installed, they usually have suitable 12V valves somewhere on or near the tank and filler cap. 3. I am using several kg of silica gel but still get a lot of water in my storage tank. Going overboard in a humid climate can be a good thing here but if moisture makes it into the tank even with great amounts of silica gel there are only two causes: a) the tube or cylinder used is not long enough or not wide enough to allow the absorption of all the moisture going through. b) the flow rate is too high and the temperatures are too. For the first the solution is obvious enough. The second is related to the first for the diameter and lenght but temperatures constantly above the 30°C while operating somehow limits what the gel can do. Using a cooling coil on the intake side or simply putting the gel containers in icy water will help to a great deal here. If that is not an option than I suggest to layer the gel and to seperate it with fine paper filter screens. This will slow and even out the airflow allowing for more contact time with the gel. 4. The compressor gets very noisy after some time. If "some time" means more than 30-45 minutes you simply have it running too much and it overheats. If the noise increases too much when reaching the shut off pressure it can mean the pressure is too high for it. 5. Can I use multiple compressors from smaller units or refrigerators to get enough air volume? Of course you can but it might mean you have to lower your pressure expectations. Consider that each individual compressor would get the back pressure from all other compressors running while it's outlet valve is closed. To avoid premature failure you want to make sure the compressors are shut off at a lowver pressure. 6. I don't want to use a big tank but require a good airflow for airbrush. Two or three fridge compressors working one after the other with a small tank to keep the output pressure even can allow for about 30 minutes runtime per compressor. With three it gives one hour for the the first to cool off and should be enough for ongoing work. Downside is you need to make some sort of automatic switch to "rotate" to compressor working. Last words.... Is you find any spelling mistakes you can keep them. However, if you use them in any way to make a profit with them I kindly ask for 10% of your earning from it ;) Why did I not make an Instructable out of all this? Well the day was very hot, the beer very cold and my mobile phone at home, so I did not take any pics. To top it up the whole thing is now in a seperate box for additional noise reduction so it can be used in the same room where the guy is working. Of course he just used a nailgun for the job without any regard of access or at least easy view of the two pressure gauges. Typical if you have a great idea and the cold beer tells you to forget all about screws or hinges ROFL Only comment was: You created it and it works fine, why would need more than the pipe connections for the gel and regulator? Maybe he will reconsider when the service is due....

Posted by Downunder35m 1 year ago


Air Compressor

I just found this site a week ago and thought somebody might like to check out a brand new homemade, and a rebuilt modified. I made the older one for a buddy of mine about a year ago. The new one sports a 12 horse Honda from a generator, a dual stage pump from (Chicago Pneumatics,I think)5hp min., and an old 250 gal. LP gas tank. Havent fired it off yet, but will try to get some video on it when I do. The old one will go from 0-150lbs.,in about 2.5-3min!

Posted by turn-n-burn 10 years ago


small DC 12v battery?

Hello all. i am currently working on an air powered rifle. my goal is for it to be self contained, so i took apart a testors airbrush compressor and i am fitting the compressor assembly to a 12v blower motor for an early 90s toyota 4runner. is there any way that i can make or purchase a 12v battery pack to power this thing?

Posted by dans89 7 years ago


electrical

Why does an AC of 1.5 Ton with 1 to 5 Star rating differ in power consumption though they all have the same compressor. I fail to understand how a 1 Star AC consumes more current than a 5 star rated AC?

Posted by Dipankar 2 years ago


"The Romaurie-Effect"

I have been using refrigeration compressors for many years as vacuum pumps. When I started in commercial/industrial refrigeration some 30 years ago, all the engineers in "Prestcold" Bournemouth branch made their own small portable vacuum pumps from discarded domestic refrigerators. It almost appeared to me, a newcomer to the industry, a competition of sorts to make the most practical/aesthetic unit possible.Some engineers made varnished wooden cases to house the compressor. These were ideal for all small refrigeration vacuuming requirements. My interest over the last few years has been to use these "home-made vac-pumps" to produce vacuum filled inverted aquaria. "The Romaurie-Effect" as shown on "youTube".This is an on-going project.

Posted by romaurie 10 years ago


Tennis Ball Cannon

Alright, so ive been into making all sorts of cannons whether they are pneumatic or hairspray, and recently I've been wanting to build a pneumatic tennisball cannon. i came across halve a dozen empty fire extinguishers, i am still deciding if i should use one as the chamber. i am using an electronic sprinkler valve and a 2 1/2" barrel i am also getting a 12 volt (dc) car air compressor (125 psi) and i am going to incorporate this somewhere in the cannon, the air compressor is really small so i could make it built in. i really want to make this cannon portable but i am concerned about the weight of it with the fire extinguisher tank, Any Ideas?

Posted by struckbyanarrow 8 years ago


Instructables in World Changing

Instructables was given a very nice mention in Worldchanging: A Users Guide for the 21st Century . Our two pages include 3D chocolate printer made from LEGO, 5pcb (etch your own circuit boards), Autonomous, Self-Assembling Robots, Candle Powered Hot Air Balloon, Canned Applesauce, pedal powered air compressor, and SpokePOV: LED Bike Wheel Images.

Posted by ewilhelm 11 years ago


Shaving Cream Hose Gag

Dose anyone now how to make a shaving cream thick quality soap foam, to squirt out a garden hose, for a practical joke? I want them to expect water & get a face full of thick foam. All I can think of is somehow to combined an air compressor, & container filled with soapy water.

Posted by elkaddalek 3 years ago


Airbag Jack to Change a Tire

I have seen one before and would like to have my own super strong airbag jack. I do not need airtank or air compressors to be considered. I have air addressed. Just need an easy solution to the problem. Here is one in Australia, I think http://s106.photobucket.com/user/kellypf/media/AirbagJack.jpg.html

Posted by Tolting 4 years ago


Electricity Free, wind powered Air Conditioning system from an old fridge

Has anyone ever thought of connecting a compressor from a refrigerator to a wind turbine and making an electricity free AC system for their house? It could be made from all free parts - turbine from barrel (vawt), dead fridge, etc. Please comment

Posted by LinuxH4x0r 10 years ago


Compressed air can - How to make larger one, refillable?

Hello! You know those compressed air can for cleaning dust form electronics and computers. They are working well, but if you use them a lot they become pretty expensive. For heavy user's alternative is to use compressor. They are not so expensive any more, but they are loud, heavy, large and not so practical to carry with you… So, after take in consideration that written above great thing would be to make reusable, larger, compressed air can. Something simple to use, some on/off leverage and small nozzle, and also refillable - fill it with that compressor which is heavy and loud. Some manometer would be nice, just to know how much air is inside. That "can" should be larger than Do you have any idea how to make it? Please share details, ideas, plans, other help… Thank you in advance! Best to all!

Posted by davor07 6 years ago


modify wine cooler thermostat refrigerator thermostat operating temperature

Hello. Can someone please tell me how to modify the thermostat on a wine cooler (that uses a compressor). I want to change the temperature from running between 10c-18c to 0c-5c. Please post an instructable or give me ideas- even if generic, it would be helpful.I am specifically trying to modify a baumatic bw18.

Posted by drosengarten 8 years ago


Ironman thrusters

Everyone likes to fly like ironman but he uses high technology like plasma, repulsors to fly which are still in research. But i have an idea , with enough pressure, air compressor can be used to lift us like flyboard but they are little heavy, but it can be modified. so tell me your ideas in this forum. Air extinguisher is good but lasts for only few seconds, so share your ideas, Thanks.

Posted by mano.lingam.3 3 years ago


How to fix a cars air conditioning.

Alright, so my sisters cars air conditioning is no longer working. She took it to a mechanic and he said the repair would be around 3 grand to fix, but understandably she would rater fix it herself. So, I am trying to fix it for her, but I wanted to know if there was a way that I can remove the compressor without pouring Freon all over the place?

Posted by Sedgewick17 10 years ago


Trash Can Trama

I want to build my own version of Trash Can Trauma from the Halloween edition of Make magazine http://makezine.com/halloween2007/trashcan/I got some props and the trash can and was wondering the best way to power it Electrical or pneumatics? if pneumatics are the best way then I can buy an air compressor from Harbor Freight tools for $100 Any advice would be greatly appreciated

Posted by RattandRoll 10 years ago


Jet engine turbines - how they work?

Hi, I know how jet engines work except for one aspect and for the purpose of this question I'll use http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Turbojet for the discussion so we're all picturing the same thing and because the illustration shows the engine quite simply. By looking at the picture, I understand that turbojet can't start itself, it needs 'spinning up' before it is ignited at which point it should sustain itself spinning and then provide thrust. I understand that because the turbine is spinning, the compressors at the front compress air into the combustion chamber, where fuel is injected and then ignited causing expansion, driving the rear turbines to drive the front compressor, and also providing thrust. What I don't understand is why the expansion in the combustion chamber isn't equally providing thrust in both forward and backward directions, and why it isn't acting on the compressors and causing them to be turbines just like at the rear of the engine.  What directs the expansion towards the back of the engine? and what stops half (or at least a large fraction) of it pushing back towards the front of the engine? I know rockets have an expansion but it's usually a tube with one end closed so all of the expansion is forced out of one end, but both ends are open on a jet engine? The question arose when I was looking at tin can turbines http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2c1i_UIEsSM&feature;=related and I was thinking how I would build a small one myself but I couldn't visualise why the combustion isn't pressing against both the front and rear propeller cancelling any rotation out, and providing equal thrust in both directions? Thanks for your time!

Posted by arichardson 6 years ago


Health

I would like to know how can I build a WHOLE BODY VIBRATION Board or platform. The unit is basically a small board where you stand and do exercise on it. The vibrator element looks like a compressor and has a variable vibration patterns for different therapies. normally are used by athletes to improve the effectiveness of their workout. They are also prescribed for elderly people that suffers osteoporosis (it has proven to improve the bone density just by standing on it).

Posted by jogarcej 9 years ago


nerf m203

I have been looking around and have not found a good design for a nerf m203 grenade launcher so i made this picture. (note i have not made one but i might, just an idea) it will fire a nerf pocket vortex in will go below the Nerf recon the tactical rail it would be more for function than look. tell me what you think. ps i may just use a air fitting for a compressor  rather than a pump.

Posted by ninjusk 8 years ago


Air Compressor/Vacuum Pump

I have a theory: You have your supply of compressed air. You connect that by hose to one branch of a y-connector. The other branch is connected to a hose that goes into some sort of fluid that you want to move from one vessel to another. The trunk of the y is your exhaust (in theory). So now I give, say, 15 psi out of my air supply and that shoud drag my fluid out of its vessel through the y connector to the destination of my choosing. Would that work?

Posted by flagrantfouler 10 years ago


Need piston valved gun experts

I just built a big piston valved spud gun. I can't get it to fire. When I release the pilot valve no air even comes out. The piston is sealing though. I think it might be theres not enough air in it. I charge it using a 1.5 gallon compressor at 100 psi. The chamber is 5 foot of 3 inch tubing. I don't know why no air even comes out of the pilot valve. I know their isn't leaks or none big enough to hear.

Posted by thejrb 10 years ago


How to store hydrogen under pressure

I've made several hydrogen generators via electrolysis, but every time I failed to store the generated hydrogen under (some) pressure. In this-> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m9Q6gDKP2R0 video they used an emptied fire extinguiser to store the hydrogen. The only problem with this is that they use a chemical reaction to generate the hydrogen whereas I want to use a renewable source (electricity).  I have a compressor so I could use that to generate the pressure. Has anyone got any ideas on how I could store hydrogen under pressure? Thanks

Posted by selujtje 6 years ago


Thickness of compress air tanks, and max pressure of brass fittings?

Who here knows about compress air? Regarding about the tanks in standard air compressors if i'm ryt (70 to 90psi) how thick is the tank and is it stainless? also, standard brass fittings? wat r der maximum presure?? i need to know these for safety before i can proceed with my proj, if im correct presure tanks have d tendency tio explode. and metals shatter. so... i dont want to die yet... can anyone help?

Posted by No-Shi-De 6 years ago


Working with pneumatics

Anyone know how to setup a simple air system? I have a pneumatic air cylinder with dual 1/4 inch NPT threads and a 6 inch throw. Ultimately I would like to have the cylinder extend when I flip one switch and release/contract under weight when I flip another switch. Think automotive airbag systems. Anyone know how to wire or plumb something like this up? Ultimately a compressor only option is what I'm looking for as a air tank would add too much weight. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks

Posted by prototype27 10 years ago


Air Tank Help

Some friends and I are looking to make some projects, mainly air powered. We have been looking for an air tank to hold the pressure before we discharge it but have been having problems finding the exact part. I have found lots of the air tanks to fill tires and stuff like that but I need something to hold a good amount of pressure and let it out in one big shot and can be charge with a normal car tire air compressor. -I need to know the exact name this items goes by. (Just "air tank" gives me the tanks for tire inflation) -I need to know a webite or store to purchase them at. (Home Depot or Grainger by any chance?)

Posted by Umbro 11 years ago


wtf??!!

I just visited some air gun dealers site and i learned that they sell air rifles that can go up to 3000psi! I am making an air rifle that i was gonna pump with a air compressor up to 300psi. :( I thaught that 300psi was much!! Wtf?? I mean 300psi is enough to go trough 18mm plywood. Whats 3000psi gonna do??!! Go through a wall?!! Wtf? :( But is there a way for me to pump to a higher psi?? And a other thing. My air tank was this ABS pipe and i was wondering if you could get ABS pipe out of iron. Can you?? PS: I still havent learned how much fps a 300psi is.

Posted by Enzo55 10 years ago


free energy (almost)

Wood powered air compressor 15 to 20 feet high, have not added the valves or pistons or gears but i thought this idea up today and felt like sharing it, last month I posted an idea about using steam pressure to pump water vertically and with the right configuration a header tank might be able to be adapted to work this contraption, using kinetic energy with a spring on the main arm and the weight of water to operate the arm to drive pumps. I dislike seeing fires go to waste and theres only so much damper you can cook. its the first time ive attempted to upload a movie, hope it works otherwise this message is pointless.

Posted by QSDR 5 years ago


how to get more than 1 shot (homemade PCP )

I think any 1 who has made a basic PCP rifle is sick and tired of pumping up their rifles ea shot... or at least i have :). I can't come up with a way to solve this problem without attaching my rifle to an air compressor. But the other day I was brain storming and I came up with an idea, what if we had 2 tanks, which were connected via a thin pipe so it takes a fairly long time for them both to arrive at the same air pressure.(refer to picture), yeah so dose any 1 have an constructive criticism to dish out?

Posted by chinnerz 9 years ago


Need way to fill small air canisters (4-8oz) w/ bike pump

I've got a couple of older small CO2 canisters that I haven't used in a few years. I figured a good way to reuse them was to make a refillable canned air. The only problem is I don't have an air compressor. What I do have is a bike pump. Does anyone have any good ideas on how to (1) get air into the cylinder with the pump and (2) make some sort of release system, trigger or otherwise, to release it like canned air. I'm looking to use it to blow out electronics and the like. Yes I know about the moisture issue but not terribly concerned with it.

Posted by MrBippers 11 years ago


GREAT ELECTRONIC AUDIO ITEM JUST CAME AVAILABLE

The Electronic Goldmine  has a rare to find component. "Tiny audio optocoupler is about the size of a pencil eraser and has 4 leads. These are used extensively in audio compressors, audio level controls, audio limiters, expanders/noise gates, guitar tremolo effects, guitar amplifiers and music effect boxes. Inside the black epoxy case is a 2 lead photocell (not a photodiode or photo-transistor) and a 2 lead LED. This is why the device finds extensive use in audio applications (photocell instead of photodiode). The LED requires about 10-16mA current and the resistance of the photocell varies from 150K up to megohms when the LED is off to under 400ohms when the LED is on." A

Posted by iceng 4 years ago


Has anyone used/made a Schrader-valve (tire stem) adapter for a Coleman mattress pump?

I'm getting too old (or out of shape) to use a manual tire pump on mine and my wife's bicycles. We own a Coleman air mattress with their wall-plug inflation pump. The latter comes with their custom "air lock" adapter for the mattress, and a "pinch valve" adapter.Before I go out and buy a compressor/electric pump for the bikes, I wanted to try using this one that I already own. Has aynone ever used this pump with a valve-stem adapter (Schrader valve) to inflate tires? If so, where did you get the adapter? Or did you make one?

Posted by kelseymh 9 years ago


The wimpy power grid! Low pressure air for little jobs. I pumped water 6 ft high with 0.2psi!

So I am not talking a 0.2 psi grid.  Anywhere from 1 to 4 psi should work for the little jobs.  All  you have to do is make feeble wind or water or solar panel or Stirling engines to power the  pumps and the pumps are just a couple of ft of tubing!  So, 1 psi is nothing! We should be able to make it in all sorts of ways.  My air comes from a 3.5 Watt bubble pump until I (or you) figure out how to run a tiny compressor off my 15 Watt solar panel.    I have a few demo videos including the one here  

Posted by gaiatechnician 5 years ago


Rewire car charger to UK mains electricity socket

Hello there, I have a 12V air compressor pump which I would like to use inside the house. It's designed for pumping up car tyres, so it has a car cigarette lighter plug, but I think it would be useful for cleaning out the dust from my computers. I've seen a few mains adapter converters on the internet, but none of them have the required amperage (16 amps). I've decided it would be more useful to convert it to a mains plug instead. My knowledge of electronics wiring is poor, but I'm a dab hand at tutorials, I just need to know where to start! :) Would anyone be able to give me some advice? The device is here if anyone wants some background: Thank you! James

Posted by James_B 4 years ago