I need several copper disks 2 inches in diameter with a 3/4 inch hole in the center. They can be cut, stamped, or otherwise constructed but it needs to be out of 1/16 inch copper. several means 5-10
Posted by Daves Homestead 6 years ago
I'm working on a project that requires soldering a 1/4" OD copper tube into a hole drilled in the side of a 2" copper pipe. Will a soldered join (not brazed) be sturdy or do I need to do something to reinforce (cut threads into the tube and pipe, flare the tube and insert from inside, etc) it? There won't be a lot of stress on the join but there will be a small tap on the tube to there may be a bit of torsion now and again. Thanks for your responses!
Posted by Mr. E Meat 7 years ago
Hi I want to refine some copper and change it to copper-dust-particles by means of copper-electrolsis in a bath of disolved coppersulfate. Since my copper is in smaller bits id like to have some sort of etallic basket to hold the scraps. I think i would like to go with a chromesteel-mesh i connect to the power. The mesh/basket contains my scrap-copper and the anode-sludge can pass thru the basket... The basket (anode) and the copper-cathode are connected to the powersupply. Now my question: I think the chromesteel shouldnt get disolved as long as i dont crank up the voltage too high or let it run without sacrificial copper at the cathode. If i would do that, it would start to split the water used in the solution and produce H and O. Bad. Also would slowly eat away the metals too. Bad^2 But as long as i have copper to be disolved at the cathode, it shouldnt do anything to my chrome-steel-basket, right? Thanks for inputs from someone who knows it better than i do :)
Posted by Orngrimm 4 years ago
If you have say 2 inch or better diameter copper wire to strip here is what I do. I have ben in the scrap arena for years. Buy a large handeled pair of shears that are only for copper. They will look much like a large pair of boltcutters. Cut your insulated wire into about two foot lenghts. Get a large pot, the bigger the better and heat with an out door propane burner full of water. Place the cut sticks of wire into the boiling water fro about five min. Get some insulated rubber gloves and a sharp razor knofe and you will find that the plastic insulation carves away like butter. This works on everykind of insulated wire I have come across. With lead wrapped insulated wire, get a plasma torch. It cutts easily and is so fast the plastic wire inside does not have time to catch on fire. Use plenty of ventilation to avoid breathing lead based fumes.
Posted by beserker 6 years ago
I need several strips of copper and zinc for a science project but its frustratingly hard to find zinc anywhere in the Seattle area. I have already tried the local electronics store and plumbing store. Can you guys suggest anything not outrageously expensive and within an hour driving distance?
Posted by Plastic Fir 10 years ago
So I really like this clock. I think I'll buy it soon. But as a beginner's art project, I'm trying to replicate some of the metal effects here. I'm curious for techniques on how to accomplish some things, like: The back plate is copper, which the artist says is "oxidized". I expect oxidation to turn copper green, blue, or black, not this silver/grey color. Any ideas how this was done? Is it just that it's a light oxidation? I really like the metal texturing here. I've been able to replicate something similar on copper plate by hand-sanding in one direction with a fine-grained sandpaper. But notice the vertical texturing on the backplate - how would that have been done?? I like the polished metal look of the minute hand contrasting with the reflective look of the hour hand. How would you do that - similar way as the backplate? Same with the gear? I've actually made what I think are much prettier nails by taking old (originally quite rusted) square iron nails, removing the rust and grinding the crap out of them with a bench grinder until I get a cool reflective finish. Doing the grinding in patches gives it almost a hammered metal look while keeping the reflectiveness. I think the effect is cool and really works with the "old-but-new" look of the square nails. I'll post before+after pictures if anyone's interested.
Posted by ischorr 7 years ago
I'm looking for input on the process of electroplating non-metal materials. I have never electroplated before and am open to trying the traditional method or the paint on plate solutions that are available. I'm just uncertain where/ how to begin and what to buy. The hurdle is that the items I want to plate are not metal to begin with. One website I read seemed to suggest that painting the object with a paint that contains metal flakes (like Liquid Leaf faux gold leaf, which contains soluble copper) would be enough to get a paintable silver plate to bond. Anyone have experience to weigh in with? I welcome suggestions for techniques, favorite products, etc.
Posted by ashleyjlong 2 years ago
How can you dissolve the silicon (and possibly solder) off of a PCB to leave the copper traces? Thanks
Posted by LinuxH4x0r 10 years ago
Hello, I'm new to working with wood, and I want to find a way to inlay pieces of copper into small pieces of wood. Can someone explain how I might do this. I want the copper pieces to be flush with the wood, and I like an element of spontaneity, so I'm wondering if its possible to pour molten copper into a crevice on a piece of wood. If it's not how can I at least get the piece of copper to stick into the wood? Thanks for any thoughts.
Posted by kpryce 3 years ago
I have a bunch of old PCBs laying around from various electronic projects, things I took apart and re-purposed, etc...Seeing as copper is roughly $0.25 per ounce, I would like to remove the copper from these PCBs, and sell it to a local coin shop that buys various scrap metals. I plan on sanding the solder mask off first, but after that, I don't know how to remove the copper from the fiberglass. Maybe just electroplate it onto another piece of copper? Please give me suggestions, thanks!
Posted by metrogdor22 7 years ago
I have an old house that uses steam heat and has big, single-pipe, cast-iron steam radiators. I wanted to replace one of them with something modern looking, and one company sells such radiators, but they are very expensive (sold here http://steamradiators.com/) My question is, can I make one of these out of large (1.5" or so) diameter copper pipes, soldered together in the same fashion? I've read that steam systems typically operate at 1psi of pressure, which sounds like it's well below the safety limit of copper pipes and solder joints. I think it would look fantastic, but would it work?
Posted by mhj555 8 years ago
I live in estonia. No bamboos here. So I was thinking to use copper tube. I find this http://www.aflauta.com.br/hist/bamboo.pdf Problem is inside diameter and wall thickness. If i'm getting it right for every key is right inside diameter and lenght I can buy straight copper tubes/pipes: 15mm(outside diameter) x 1,05mm(Wall thickness) 1,05x2=2.1mm 15-2.1=12.9mm(inside diameter) 18 x 1,0 1,0x2=2 18-2=16 12 x 1,0 1,0x2=2 12-2=10 10 x 0,8 2x0,8=1,6 10-1,6=8,4 Whats the best? I was thinking to use 15mm and 18mm tube 18mm for key a 15mm for key d I ended up with 15x1,05 copper tube. Thinking how to use this: http://11wall-west.com/~ph_kosel/flutomat.html If I use this measures http://www.phy.mtu.edu/~suits/pvcflute.html I get 7.2mm for blow hole and 6mm for finger hole. My tube I.D is 12.9 Is there any flute calculator that calculates hole sizes for right key? I am also thankful for any flute related help what helps me to make copper flute.
Posted by DeathSuperMario 3 years ago
Hi! Few months ago I saw very interesting project. It was a barrel with attached copper pipes. This pipes was bend in the letter "o" and there were standing in the fire. Thanks to this the water in the barrel was hot. If it help the pics were taken on the beach in the night Thanks for any help MAGx2
Posted by MAGx2 6 years ago
I managed to plate a copper trace onto piece of acryllic today, to test out a process for easily and cheaply making (and possibly editing/repairing) custom PCBs. The adhesion appears to be good for surface preparation used so far, and a nice thick track has formed. So, would it be worth uploading an instructable once the process has been refined a little (or enough to make simple boards properly)? Any questions, feedback or comments would be appreciated.
Posted by The Skinnerz 7 years ago
Hi! I plan on some experiments with a modified method i saw here for PCB-plating with copper to make the holes conductive. Now the question: What if my metal is not 100% pure but has some impurities in it? Does it still only "transfer" the copper and leaves the impurities as slag behind? I think it should be this way, since a similar approach gets used in refining metals to a very high purity; but i am unsure... Lets say i do: Follow the basic recipe (with smaller ammounts!) @ http://www.thinktink.com/stack/volumes/voliii/consumbl/cplatmix.htm and use copper sulfide. I think the trick now is that only copper-ions get disolved in the copper sulfide and nothing else. Those ions become plated to the other pole and thus i get purest copper plated to it?
Posted by Orngrimm 6 years ago
Hi all, I'm working on a project aimed at helping e-waste workers in Ghana. They collect cables and burn them to get the copper (see video 6min). Burning them is toxic and they damage their health. I'm looking for alternatives to this burning process. - First idea would be stripping cables. I will need a very basic tool, man-powered, to strip them. - Second idea would be shredding and sorting out. Probably something like this bike (http://www.halwatts.co.uk/Esource). I would like to do it open source hardware to facilitate replication. I'm looking for people who can help by giving tips on how to build a prototype, and maybe get more involved. Do you know about tools that can serve this purpose of getting copper out the cables, low-cost, low-tech? Thanks
Posted by rf.font 5 years ago
General interest: I went there (surface) this year, it's pretty-much dead (due to heavy-metal contamination), a spooky "outer-space" sort of place. Near Amlwch on Anglesey (that's Wales) The site contains several mines worked since the Bronze age, it was once the largest copper mine in the world. This site has some great photos of the underground levels, recently drained: www.parysmountain.co.uk/ (I nicked an image) note that 1 fathom is 6 feet. Google Earth: W 4o20 '40", N 53o23'10"
Posted by lemonie 8 years ago
A 75 year old woman has cut Armenia off from the internet. Whilst scavenging for copper in neighbouring Georgia, Hayastan Shakarian accidentally severed the fibre-optic cable connecting all three of Armenia's internet wholesale providers, and the whole country was cut off for almost 12 hours until after midnight on the night of 28th March. The pensioner has been arrested, and could face three years in prison, but has been released pending the completion of the investigation and the result of the prosecution. Armenian websites identified Shakarian as Armenian herself, not Georgian, and questioned the credibility of an old lady causing the blackout, claiming similar damage in Georgia has caused problems for Armenia in the past. AFP ArmeniaNow BBC
Posted by Kiteman 7 years ago
Here's a quick photo-essay about my Sunday afternoon: An outside hose bibb was leaking around the handle, so I decided to replace it. * I couldn't remove the old hose bibb from a piece of galvanized pipe, so I removed the pipe too, and found what looked like a brass fitting inside the wall. * Once I had installed a new length of pipe and hose bibb, I turned the house water back on, and heard it leaking inside the wall. Thinking I hadn't tightened it enough, I really beared down and gave the bibb/pipe combo a good crank to seal the connection in the wall. That's when I felt a pipe inside the wall break, and heard water start blasting inside the wall. *Fortunately, I have access to the other side of the wall through the garage, so I cut a hole and installed a valve upstream of the break. I didn't have time to do a full repair and re-route the pipe outside, so that's where I've left it for now. It took three separate trips to Home Depot -- represented above by *'s -- which seems about average for me and plumbing disasters. Things I could have learned: try to remove the broken item before going to get parts. That would have saved one trip to get the additional length of pipe. I don't think I've ever soldered copper pipes in a non-emergency setting. Last time, our hot water heater failed the day before my parents arrived for a week's stay. If you'd like to do your own plumbing, I strongly recommend learning to solder on a project that doesn't require the water to the entire house to be off.Thanks to zachninme for taking photos!2008-08-31 Update: Since I know everyone is dying to know how this turned out, I've add a few more pictures. With the right tools and parts in hand, I replaced everything from the broken copper pipe out to the hose bid, and removed the valve inside the wall. The tricky part was mounting a brass 1/2 NPT female to copper 1/2 elbow. Originally, this piece was nailed into a stud and then the copper was soldered on before the walls were finished. I didn't want to make a big hole in the stucco on the exterior wall and I couldn't safely get my torch into the confined space, so I soldered some copper elbows onto this brass elbow and then mounted it with machine screws coming in from behind through the stud (screw heads on the inside where I could access them through the hole in the drywall, and bolts on the other side with the brass elbow where I positioned and tightened them by feel).Having opened a plumbing battle on this front, I decided to fix a bunch of other plumbing problems around the house, which I'll write about shortly in an Instructable.
Posted by ewilhelm 10 years ago
I know that copper is a better conductor than tin or aluminum. But one of my friends a few days ago told me that instead of etching his layout on copper, he used the bottom of an altoids tin. he said all he did was sand the bottom until there was no paint of the altoids can and then he etched his layout. (Chemical bath, toner, etc.) So my question is, Does anyone know how to etch custom layouts (toner layouts) on tin or aluminum? **I figure this could save people some money and time on some projects. :)
Posted by batboy61490 10 years ago
Essentially i want to make water cooled shoes from some of the spares i have from my old pc water-cooling set up. I want to run some thin copper tubing around the shoe which will connect to the some metal fittings that will then connect to my rubber tubing and then to the pump and the radiator. Now i know about the fittings that are available for the regular copper tubing that runs in houses but this tubing will be around 4mm and im not sure how to connect this tubing to my metal fittings which are about 3/8th of an inch i believe. I was thinking to just use some epoxy putty or something but im sure there are better ways to do this. so any ideas? im sure fittings are available but i dont know what they're called i couldn't get anything with a quick google search. Edit: i didn't realise response here would be so thoughtful and all. I dont want to be able to walk around in these i just want to sit in my room and be comfortable. The heat difference probably wouldn't be too large between my feet and the air for a huge transfer so i also had thought to add a small water bath with a second small radiator init. The copper tubing doesnt have to be directly under my feet i realise they'd probably be crushed otherwise. but the heat conduction through them must be so much better then the plastic tubing.
Posted by rajr110 4 years ago
I'm making a prop that requires a length of coiled copper tubing & I don't have the cash to buy it. I need a plastic tube that is malleable into a coil & I can spray paint it a copper color. I've experimented with some types of plastic cover electric cord & aquarium tubing & both, the plastic reacted with the paint & never dried. I need to know what types of plastic tube I can ether paint myself & wont melt the plastic, or point me in the detection of were I can find copper colored plastic tubing, or name the types of plastic tube that wont react to certain types of paint.
Posted by elkaddalek 1 year ago
Just have a little problem that im sure a lot of you have the answer... I try to put a Nichrome wire on come copper wire but the copper wire is always burning (when the Nichrome get red and hot [really need its ^^])so i lose the connection between the Nihrome wire and the copper wire....What should i do? use big fat copper wire?
Posted by koax 10 years ago
Hi! I think i will see some PCB-Etchin in the future... So i will need an etchant. Aequous copper chloride was the choice i made since it is a regenerative etchant according to several sources. Now if i understood the chemistry right (Sorry... electrotechnician here), the reaction in theory only needs the oxygen from the peroxide (H2O2) and the hydrogen isnt used at all? Since i only have relatively weak peroxide, i plan on using a bubbler to introduce the oxygen to the copper-HCI-mix. This because i dont want to dilute the acid too much... Will that work? I know that if i use normal air (which has only around 20% oxygen in it) it will take some time... But would it work in the first place? I read somewhere that copper and muriatic acid dont really react in the first place... So if i also understood that right, it needs the oxygen present in the beginning to START reacting... So i think i may go with a contraption like: Plastic container with a bubbler installed (Pumps normal air) Add Muriatic acid to the container Add copper to the acid let it bubble till the copper is disolved Now i have a copper chloride-solution which i can regenerate by adding oxygen (By bubbler or H2O2)?
Posted by Orngrimm 5 years ago
Hi !This morning, I was wondering what was the maximum temperature of the flame of a simple candle.So, this evening, despite the answer is on the internet, I made some quick and various experimentations of my own, mainly because there was nothing interesting at TV ...I put a wire of tin with a diameter of 1 millimetre over the flame and it liquefied immediately. So I immediately deduced the temperature of the flame was over 505oK ...Then, I tried with a wire of iron with a diameter of 1 millimetre, and it did not liquefied. So, I deduced the maximum temperature of the candle's flame was below 1811oK.Then, I tried with a very thin wire of enameled copper (thiner than a hair), the enamel vaporized in a flash and the copper wire quickly liquefied. I deduced the max temp of the flame was over 1357oK.This gave me a maximal temperature somewhere between 1357oK and 1811oK.Then, I tried with a thin wire of copper (0.2 millimitres), and it liquefied. But I also noticed that, sometimes, there was a green flame adding to the candle's flame.On the internet, they say that coppers flame are green. This would mean that my candle's flame is hot enough to vaporize my copper wire ? and, thus, that the maximal temperature of the candle flame is over 2835oK ?????If so, why can't it liquefy my 1 millimeters iron wire ?=o/
Posted by chooseausername 10 years ago
Hi peeps! I was thinking the other day that I would LOVE to see one of those handmade copper bonsai trees (like these ones ) inside a plasma ball, with electricity arching across branches and so on. Either that or two of them side by side forming an electric Jacob's Ladder?? But I don't know how to make one. Does anyone want to make one - if possible - and show me? I have a neon light ballast and some time on my hands, I'd love to try this! Cha cha!
Posted by damianzuch 4 years ago
I published this ible Lucky Penny 4 You some time ago. Then onrust just found this as the first pic under Google image if you lookup the Iron Penny. Happy to be an Instructable Member
Posted by iceng 6 years ago
Last weekend my friend Don and I went to ALCO Iron and Metal in San Leandro, CA. Don needed some sheet metal and I will need some metal soon enough and I'd never been to any such place, so I went along to take a look. It was super cool, they had all kinds of metals in all kinds of forms - sheets, rods, tubes, blocks, foil, flats, angle lengths, meshes. They also did a lot of metal recycling and had tons (literally, I'm sure) of metal scrap of various sorts lying around in heaps, and baled up by type. I started out taking photos for reference, but ended up just taking pix of anything that looked interesting or would make a good photo. The recycled metal bales were especially lovely.Here's a few pix to whet your interest, and the full set is on Flickr here: http://flickr.com/photos/mnrsiat/sets/72157605422168005/
Posted by rachel 10 years ago
Heya, experts! Short version: freshly polished pennies need to be able to remain bright and shiny after being left out in the rain for one night. Explanation: We celebrate virtually every holiday in our family, and tomorrow is St Patricks's Day. It's become a tradition for the kids to "discover" a trail of brightly shined pennies that lead out to some freshly planted shamrocks and other new plants, with a few brightly polished gold dollars underneath. It's nothing grand, but it's fun to sneak out to plant a little evidence in the garden. This year will see heavy rain and general unpleasantness (SF Bay Area), and every year the pennies that get some water exposure will have dark spots where the water sat. Lately it seems that i've made some bad calls on impromptu fixes, so i'm putting my question out to the more knowledgeable community here. Would a little WD40 likely keep tonight's heavy rains from spotting the coins? Does anyone have any suggestions that would probably work better? Any thoughts our ideas would be appreciated, if just to keep silly little traditions going. ;-) Cheers! - A Dad Who's About To Get His Yearly Thumb Blister From Polishing Pennies With A Jewelry Cloth
Posted by Spunk-Monkey 6 years ago
For a Desktop plating machine, what type of container would you use, how would you pin it out and how much voltage would you need? thanks in advance, also, i know that there was another instructable written by my former self , but I know that I did not build it right.
Posted by Steamdnt 10 years ago
Ok, so last 4th I made fireworks for a small- and I mean small- display, and it turned out fairly well. I only had two complaints- a) It wasn't that colorful, as I was only using pine and palm charcoal for color: reddish orange.b)it wasn't electrical, and took alot of visco, as I wanted everything to go off near-instantaneously. Well, I am going to solve problem b by getting e-matches off of Skylighter, but solving a is a little harder. Then, I read that certain copper compounds could be added to create a green to green-blue color in the flame. Well, I like that idea, but I didn't know where to get the copper compounds. So I kinda left it. UNTIL TODAY!I found this page on making copper (II) chloride. Well, it seemed straightforward enough, so I was going to try it. I was only wondering about two things:a) why on the description on this page about it include hydrogen peroxide, but the page does not even mention it?b)is this safe? I guess I should be outside for the hotplate part- I can't imagine boiling/simmering HCI, inside.c) is this even possible? Does it: 1)create a form of copper that could be used with success in pyrotechnics? 2)create copper chloride at all?Any answers are appreciated. Even if they don't directly pertain to the topic, POST ANYWAY! Makes it more interesting.
Posted by John Smith 10 years ago
Has anyone ever used copper tape to concentrate heat on an object to obtain a uniform higher temperature? I've been doing some studies in the recent past that suggest polished copper foil is a good reflector of infrared energy. It is not as good as silver, but I don't think it would go over well to use silver in any sort of oven or kiln. I used to think good ole aluminum foil was good for heat, but it turns out it is only good for stopping heat. I've thought of using the instructable on the waffle iron or make one by way of a bread toaster, but will most likely not be able to go through with it. The copper foil is the same type found at stained glass craft shops.
Posted by jmikronis 5 years ago
Previously I asked this question, except I wanted to build an electromagnetic dent puller. But no one gave me specific ideas or instruction of how it could be done, instead everyone told me different ways to pull the dent out, or how the metal looks.. Anyway. I have a lot of copper wire. And I have a bunch of magnets and ferrous cores, iron rods.. etc. I am wondering if I can create a very powerful burst of magnetic energy with a few winding's of copper around a ferrous core. I'm talking enough to push two very heavy objects apart, such as a television or couch... 1) Copper will be wound around about 40-60 times 2) High amperage discharge from capacitor bank 3) Possible explosion or melting wire? Thank you... again
Posted by Justdoofus 6 years ago
Hello everyone, I was hoping someone can share advice, tips etc. I plan on getting 55gal steel drum & turning into wood burning pool heater. My question is about which type copper coil would work best, and still be safe to use. My son has Down syndrome and is very sensitive to cold water. We just spent around $1500 to get pool ready with a installed ramp for his wheelchair. We called few different pool people about a reg heater they want from $2500 to $3700. Mostly cause it would not be easy install lot of things in way, etc etc. oh and then add monthly bill. I don't mind the pool temp but my son does and he truly doesn't ask for anything. And if I could safely get pool warm enough for him then I want to at least try. so we really don't have the extra cash to go "normal" pool heater way but I've watched allot of vids on YouTube where they took a steel 55 gal drum, turned on its side and put the copper coil mounted inside at the top. These people would be able to increase temp by allot. Its labor involved but I'm home anyhow taking care of my son. I'm looking at using about 100ft. I can get 1/2 100ft of Type L $163.00 and Type ACR for $119.00. Anyhow Type ACR is much much cheaper then Type L. Is there a real big difference? Big enough to spend the extra cash and use Type L, instead. Or Is ACR still safe to use with the pool? I'm not sure which Type L or ACR but I've read it say it's cleaned inside the pipe. Does this matter cleaned vs not cleaned inside pipe for what I would be using for? here link of place I'm getting https://m.grainger.com/mobile/product/MUELLER-INDUSTRIES-100-ft-Soft-Coil-Copper-Tubing-4WTC2?breadcrumbCatId=7726&fc;=MWP2IDP2PCP Please any info would be greatly appreciated. Truly thanks so much for your time. Thank Lisa
Posted by fst2011 1 year ago
Is it just me or do you have to "break in" a soldering iron before it's really usful? I've had a new soldering iron for about amonth (using it about 4 hours to 8 hours a week) and it only started to solder really well in the past couple of days. Anybody know why? Also my soldering iron kind of has a hot spot, where you the solder melts really well, that normal?
Posted by guyfrom7up 10 years ago
I'm looking for a very thin, non-conductive, copper wire. Although I've been told this is impossible to find and wicked hard to make, so something clear coated would also be acceptable, but I want an ultra fine gauge. I also want it to be solderable. Anybody know where I can find some?
Posted by aliasjanedoe 9 years ago
I wanted to electroplate a piece of metal with copper, but I have two questions.One question is what size transformer to use.I have one that is 13vdc at 10 watts, is that too much? If so, about what would the aps be on that? Another question is where to find copper. Are pennies ok? Any help is appreciated.
Posted by John Smith 11 years ago
What we did was took different types of copper wire to find out which was the best for the quality of our speaker. We tried a wider gauged wire, a longer, and a couple other unsuccessful hypothesis´. The best one was the longer wire. About 1 meter long. The things you need: -copper wire -av cables -box without the lid -magnet from a speaker -av cables -stereo to connect to the av cable -tape to put you copper on the box
Posted by Emilie Kunkel 6 years ago
I should not get hoocked on the cummunity side here again but well, I am bored today...If you have a vintage car, some old steam engine models or even really old clocks then you know my pain.Copper, brass and sometimes aluminium was used and if not cared for in time they nice shine goes first.Dirt and dust come next.And with more time passed we start to consider leaving it as the polishing would take forever.Take one of my "hobbies": old mantle clocks...Literally everything inside is brass.Now polishing a bass backing plate with some holes is quite easy if you have an ultrasonic cleaner to clean the debris out of the tiny holes when done.Even tried to polish a sprocket or fine spring mechanism?If spoked then this is a really painful job.But the same is true if you have old copper and brass ware, like these old stenciled pictures on copper sheets.No matter what you try these jobs end up to take more time than what you imagined and in many cases fine details are left oxidised or filled with the polishing compount.Now imagine you could get rid of these tarnishes and discolorations without cramps in your hand and bying all sorts of polishing products?Sure there are the well known brands that polish a lot of metal with ease by simply wiping over them.But they use harmful and often toxic chemicals and are still no good for really fine details like grooves or emossed stuff.Wearing gloves and protection is often a must and at least I can't stand the stink of them.We all know how to clean our dishes, even how to get the dried on lasagne from last night off the dinner plates.So why not do the same with our brass, copper or aluminium parts?Just use a spongue, rub and wipe a bit, rinse off and let dry.Ok, those who tried before reding the rest might be a bit angry now as it does not work that easy.Well, actually it does, just don't use dishwashing liquid :)Let me give you two of the worst cleaning problems I encountered first:You did some very fine brazing to create something nice from brass or bronze.The flux you can wash off, but polishing the discoloration from the heat and resulting oxidisation will take longe than the brazing job.The other ecounter was the restauration of a petromax style blow torch of alomst 60 years of age - but thankfully it was never used for more than decoration.All brass and a lot parts impossible to polish due to size and being quite delicate.Now we all have ways to spend a lot of time and being creative to use normal ways of polishing.And, yes I did so myself for many years and kick can myself now too.Since we can't do any advertising here and I clearly don't want to promote any brands or harm other brands by rendering their costly products useless I need a way out that helps everyone.So, again, I am not trying to promote anything here!However I noticed someone in my favourite restaurants kitchen polishing some dark copper pot to a mirrow shine in less than 5 minutes!I was shocked and asked the manager to explain what I just saw.He was confused to say the least..."We clean our pots every day, sometimes more depending on what we cooked in them."Sure but what do you use to do what I need several hours for in minutes and with better results?"Just water and soapy powder to shine the metal sir. All natural product."Omg god or Kali! What makes it shine so quickly?"Shining powder sir!" - mind you the poor guy was now totally confused and worried, while I started to loose my insanity.He noticed the look on my face and went into the kitchen.Gave me a fance looking bag that apart from a lot of Indian writing I could not make any sense of stated "Shining powder" on the pack.When the manager saw the look on face this time he laughed and asked "How do you clean your copper pots sir?"I was speechless and just said with much more time and elbow grease...He packed about thimble worth of powder for me to try and said it would be enough for a medium sizde pot, just use a wet spongue and put a little bit of powder on it.And guess what the stuff worked as good as in the restaurant :(I can't even count how many hours I wasted polishing copper or brass parts with fine details.Or engine parts from aluminium with brass parts inside....With this stuff you just wipe and tough cases rub a bit harder and all is done in literally seconds.In tight areas or those with fine details you use a fine brush like those for painting in water colors.And with that and a spongue you clean even the finest details with ease.In an ultrasonic cleaner it even works on areas you can't reach, just wipe what you can reach and see somehow and it shines.Now if you want this magic stuff and check if the guy here is just pulling your leg then be prepared to pay a lot of money.200 grams of this powder will set you back between 5 and 15 bucks depending on where you shop.That is enough clean about 300 midsized copper pots or a few hundret meters of copper piping....Just ask for shining powder in your Indian grocery store ;)We all waste money or stuff we don't need, so if you have coper, brass or aluminium to polish then try washing it the Indian way - just for fun of testing something else.And if after that test you think the few bucks and information was well worth it than please post your experience with the powder in the comments below.I hope all those members here working with these metals will read this too, so if not help me to spread the word please ;)I am struggling to upload some pics I have taken from the blow torch but will try again alter once I reduced their size.If in doubt I will upload them to a hoster and link them.Disclaimer:I don't advertise, I don't promote!However I am so pleased with this dirt cheap product that I use it now as my prefered and natural option.For this reason I think it is worth sharing.It is not a magic cure! If you have pitted areas, solder marks or brazin coming out of joints it will not help.Same for scratches, they still require abrasive polishing to be removed.But normal dirt from being displayed for years, oxidisation and even slight discoloration from corrosion will vanish.And if the surface has a good polish underneath all this than it will come back with ease ;)
Posted by Downunder35m 4 weeks ago
Hey everyone, i was wondering if anyone in the Hollywood-Miramar-Pembroke Pines area of Florida USA has any old scrap iron, steel, charcoal, or coal they do not want and would be kind enough to offer it to me for free or for a reasonable price. I am doing blacksmith work so it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! Things wanted: Bolts, car springs, brake drums, any kind of bar (round, flat, square, hexagonal, octagonal, etc.) lump charcoal, any large chunks of steel to be used as anvils, any old blacksmith tools such as hammers, etc.... anything donated is appreciated. Thanks again!
Posted by thoraxe 10 years ago
I am trying to attach a apple headphone jack to 2 speakers. Which wires do I have to put where because on the right side there are 3 wires which are the red, copper, and the red and green wire twisted together and on the left side there is the green and the copper and is there anyway that you can control the volume on your ipod from the remote that's on the headphones??
Posted by moojomoore 6 years ago