Asked by Sethu SB 2 years ago
Can anyone please provide a link which speaks about this...for a beginner thank you in advance
Asked by sandiri 5 years ago
There are lots of innovative Knex guns out there. But how did you come up with the idea? Please share your story and methods! -Did you try endlessly to make something work or purely by accident did you come up with a great idea? -Do you draw diagrams or sketches before design, or do you just rip out your tub and start building Knex ? -Any particularly interesting stories behind a gun design? Please share!
Posted by crestind 11 years ago
In this project you are required to design a 4 digits combination lock (not using arduino) The project is such that it can be reconfigurable i.e. there should be an option that we can change the password of the lock at run time. Input to the system is from the hex keypad. Output of the system is ‘open’ and ‘close’ words displayed on a seven segment I used registers,flip flops, mux ,comparator but couldn't get the desired result
Asked by r_sammad 3 years ago
Hi All New here and hope you can help me out. I am a biker in south africa and would like to put together an aditional brake light that flashed 4 times then go solid. Microcontroller will most likely be the easiest and have design one as follows. (the coding has been done) LED's to be used is 20mA at 2.2V My concern is that for the amount of LED"S (100) i want to use 1amp is not enough and therefore i am using a LM7810 to drop the voltage from 12V to 5V with a cap to increase the 1A output to 5A I wish to wire the LED's in parralel si if one pop's then it wont affect the rest of the LED's. Must i therefore still wire a resistor in front of every LED? (180ohm?) or can i wire in this LED before the LED matrix to give it a 2.2-2.3V throughout the LED matrix? Here is my design : http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg156/HannesNel/design_zps52f754cf.png 2nd EDIT : How about this? reworked the design a bit? Then i drop the 12v down to 2.5V needed for the LED's and no resistors needed? I also opped for the LM350 due to the higher amps it can handle http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg156/HannesNel/Untitled_zpsc9900901.png 3rd update: Now using super bright LED's with a rating of 2V and therfore will use row of 6 in series to give 12V...still need resistors when connecting the 6 banks of 6 LED each in parralel? http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg156/HannesNel/Untitled_zps684a2209.png
Asked by HannesN 3 years ago
Hello Instructables forum, I'm wondering if anyone knows of some nice open source design software? I'm in the process of creating my next instructable (a dining table) and would like to design some legs on the computer before making them. Cheers, Chris
Posted by chrismo 4 years ago
I've taken classes that go into theory and the mathematics behind it, but what I'm looking for is how you go about designing for a task.
Asked by deathromp 9 years ago
Hello all!! I have something in mind that I want to build. I will try to market it and make money but my first point is to actually get it to work. It is a mechanical product, imagine it like a blender but twice the size. It will have motors, valves, wiring, and will need manufacturing. I have never designed something, so I was wondering whether there is a source that can help me with my product design. I am not looking for tips on how to sell my design, or how to make a minimalist interface, or make it beautiful. I am looking for help on purely mechanical design and tips for the product to work best. Some of the things i want to know are: 1. Which material should i use? Normal steel? Stainless? Galvanized? How thick a sheet metal? Plastic? Glass? 2. Which material is easy to handle and cheap to manufacture? Which shapes can be made easily which shapes cannot. 3. What type of transparent material is cheapest and best? 4. What do i need to look out for in my product? Weight? Sharp edges? Hiding wires? This is the type of information that I want. Practical things! Any information is appreciated!!! Point out any books, pdfs, slides, or sources please! Thank you in advance, Chris
Asked by Chris414 5 years ago
Hi. I would appreciate clarification regarding the entry criteria to this comp, please. It talks about things made of wood, and being related to that recent wood care competition. I feel sure this is just a temporary glitch. If I feel the proper details match the sort of thing I want to enter, I will jump in with both feet, but at the moment my entry would not necessarily be wood related. thanks for running such fabulous competitions
Posted by dimdiode 5 years ago
Hi. am finding a best solution for my design. look at drawing. there is 4 bars. about 2~3cm long each. their tip is holden on something in middle. when you pull up right black bar, right gold one will pulled down. "in same degree." when you pull down left gold bar, left black one will pulled up. "in same degree." likewise when you pull up two black bar, two gold bars will pulled down. "in same degree." its not just a normal hinge cause their move will interactive.15 degree up - 15 degree down. what can be a best (simple, durable, hard) solution?
Posted by Sung-hyeonY 7 months ago
I am trying to build an automatic room light controller that will turn on a lamp when a person enters a room and maintains it in the on state as long as the room is occupied. once the room is empty, the lamp will switch off. I intend to use a PIC for this project, together with an infrared emitting diode and phototransistor for detecting entry and exit. But my major problem is making the circuit direction sensitive. How can I differentiate between entry and exit? I would really appreciate any help I can get. Thanks
I have this big ugly calculator and i really want to make it look really awesome... do any of you wonderful people know how i could do so? I would like to just give it a design or something- no sparkles or beadazzles. Thank you!:D
Asked by BrokenPins 6 years ago
Hey everyone, I'm new to using 123D Design and need some help to move my project along a bit quicker, and with a lower blood pressure. I need to make a maze that is basically made of Lego bricks; looks similar to a crossword. I'm using a 20x20 grid of 5mm ^3 blocks. it will be backed by a 100mm^2 by 5mm thick back plate. Right now I am creating a grid with 5mm blocks and deleting them as needed. I can live with the lag, the problem is even when i merge these there still appears to be a gap between them. so A: Any Ideas on how I could make a 2D Vector and stretch it out to the thickness I need? and B: If I have to do it like I described any hints on how to merge the blocks without the gap? Any help would be Appreciated !
Asked by Wired_Mist 3 years ago
I am in search of making solar panels from silicon transistors and diodes, any body is requested to share please?
Since solar cells are made up of silicon..i think we can make solar panels from silicon transistors and diode. So if anybody knows about it, it will help me design solar panels from transistors and diodes.
Asked by kdorji 6 years ago
Hello everyone.I am new here on instructables. I am mosaic and ceramic tile artist, and will post more on those arts later. Ok, now I put up my first one & I really want some critical feedback. It is Designing a Mosaic For my next instructables, I want to do more intricate proceedures- so I need to know if my process images/notes are good - or do they need work?
Posted by aryana 10 years ago
I am an inventor/re-designer and work with a wide variety of technology, tools and materials. I repair all of my tools myself and have built a number of custom tools and devices. I was a professional auto mechanic for many years, as well as growing up and working as a building contractor for many, many years. From those and other experiences, I have been exposed to many different coil-based devices. I have been replacing/repairing coils, coil actuated valves. relays, etc for 30+ yrs, but I've always just replaced the coils with the appropriate new part. I did rewire a relay last year, for the first time, when I couldn't bring myself to pay $80 for a new coil. I measured the wire diameter, then carefully uncoiled it, measured the length, then rewound it with the same length of wire. I figured it was worth the gamble of $4-5 on wire. It works and controls my 240v air compressor, but it was a bit of a tenuous and nerve wracking job; I had wire ALL over my shop for an hour or two. I'm finding a need/desire to understand how different voltage coils, ie: 12v DC, 120v AC, 24v DC... are calculated/designed. Can anyone point me to a resource that will explain the process on a non-electrical engineer basis? Thanks, GeoD
Posted by GeoNOregon 4 years ago
I'm thinking about painting the ceramic tile in our foyer. It should be able to stand wear and tear (and be walked upon)! Any suggestions?
Asked by chitowncheryl 9 years ago
To do a low poly covering of this is easy, but what could I do to make it curved?
Posted by DIAGONALLIS 9 months ago
I need to measure the inductance(L) of a certain coil I have wound.How do I do it experimentally without using LCR meter?
Asked by pmadithya 5 years ago
Hi all, l really like the style of this lamphttp://www.ambientedirect.com/de/foscarini-caboche-sospensione.htmlan i am thinking about rebuilding a lamp like this myself.Do you know a guide/howto of a similar lamp? What could be used for the inner ring and the many little bowls?Cheersjoern
We have a small water-fountain that needs topping-off.I want a valve to allow a 1/4" soaker hose to dribble water until it reaches a set levelI've seen larger versions, but I want to make one that will fit inside a small fountain. I don't even know the hydraulic principle that can do this.Please advise
Asked by richardhaven 5 months ago
It's difficult for me to throw away my T-shirt, they like my friends, we do have deep feelings with each other. So I decide to transform them, to give new life to them. Here are what I tried. Actually, I do like sewing things in my daily life:). I share a brief recipe at Instructables. You can review https://www.instructables.com/id/Minimal-Crossover-Vintage-style-Camisole/. Basically, I just have fun. However, more and more people were attracted and give me suggestions on how to design better, which inspire me to redesign more creative cloth. In addition, I encourage everyone to redesign their own thing but not throw them away, because the things you used in your daily life stands for your emotions in that stage, it's your life and your own thing. We can transform them or send someone who need it. Hopefully, DIY makes things different and make you different.
Posted by Wells_Tu 2 years ago
*FOR LEARNING NOT FOR PROFIT* So, I've got a few game ideas floating around in my head that I'd like to make, or at least have a hand in developing. However, I do not have the knowledge or experience yet to make these games, so I'd like to make a team that wants to gain experience working on a project that they can add to their portfolios. Should help those who have ability but no guidance especially, or who just want to have fun and make a game. 1) Modern version of Chromehounds with a lot more single and multiplayer features. Idea for the name: Wolf Pack Relative Difficulty: Easy Shooter with overall simpler animations and modelling due to no soft models such as humans required. Can practice making a large variety of models, sounds, stats for items, and hit detection. Also play around with various textures and allowing for players to customize textures. I know M.A.V. is being made but so far that isn't quite what I'm looking for. I have my own ideas on squad mechanics to add. 2) Darker story RPG set in the Mediterranean. Combat similar to Dragon's Dogma. Idea for the name: Road to Retribution Story Prologue http://roadtoretribution.blogspot.com/ Relative Difficulty: Hard Dragon's Dogma has a very awesome combat system, but that also requires a lot of animation skill to pull off. Models are harder because they are organic and so is texturing. 3) Science Fiction Adventure/Shooter using NASA models as inspiration for human designs (look up NASA FTL ship) Relative Difficulty: Moderate Blend of the previous two in terms of how easy and hard for the same reasons. No story/lore behind this yet, figured if I can get a group of people together I can always make the lore based on suggestions. 4) A Total War style game on the Wii U. I do have an idea on how it'd play but... Relative Difficulty: Hahaha, no. For a fresh team to work on that I would have to say no. 5) Whatever the team decides. 1-3 are ordered according to which idea i want done first. #4 I'd love to make simply to prove that the idea would work, but I don't see me getting a group capable of pulling off Rome 1 essentially with the control system of the Wii U, especially since I'd need to get a Wii U myself to test out the capabilities of the touch controls. Still, I'd like to think it's viable for a larger company. I myself am learning Unity and Maya atm, have dabbled in Blender a bit as well, but I am not far enough to carry the modeling by myself. I can however write the stories and dialogue much better, have an idea on how to break down the design process to increase the efficiency, and will ensure we don't overextend ourselves. Remember, the entire point of all this is to get a team to work together, learn the problems that arise working in a team with people in different positions in this industry, and most importantly, get some experience making a game. All while having fun. If it seems the game is going really well, we could crowdfund it, but that isn't the point. This is to learn the game development process by experiencing it outside of a classroom. Positions wanted, but not exclusive Modelers Animators Concept Artists Texture Specialists Sound/Music Developers Programmers Level Designers
Posted by ElGreco1 4 years ago
As you've noticed, we've been making some design changes to Instructables. We're trying to accomplish a number of things including making it easier to find content you're interested in, creating more compelling products for advertisers, and supporting and growing what we've already built. Here, I'll share the details around some specific design changes. One of my big goals for 2010 is to increase our direct visitors. A direct visitor might type our URL into their browser, click on a link in a newsletter, come to the site from one of their bookmarks, or search for a phrase that includes "Instructables". Other types of visitors include searchers, who come to the site from phrases such as "sweet potato fries" but aren't specifically trying to reach Instructables.com, and visitors from blogs or news portals. My thesis is that more and more brand advertisers will want to reach our true community, and not people who are just passing by. A pretty good proxy for our true community is direct visitors, and we've already seen the savviest advertisers try to reach only that community by advertising exclusively on our homepage (the recent Apple campaigns, for example). To grow our business and ensure that Instructables thrives, it's important that we have great opportunities for advertisers, and a stronger community means more great Instructables and more intelligent people seeing and commenting on your Instructables. To this end, we've been working to increase the likelihood that someone will go deeper into our content, and remember to come back in the future. Said another way, we want that sweet potato fries Google search to introduce someone to Instructables, and then have them think, "wow this site is amazing, I'll bookmark it, sign up for the newsletter, come back, etc..." Some of the most dramatic changes are on the homepage and channel homepages. On the homepage, we've removed the intro text from the links to Instructables. By making the homepage less cluttered with words, I was hoping to increase the number of people clicking on an Instructable. Also, I felt that the beginning of the intro text didn't contribute much to my understanding of the Instructable, and often it was no more than a repetition of the title (and at worse a note about how it was someone's first...). Removing text to increase engagement might seem counter-intuitive, but with too much going on, visitors sometimes just leave rather than decide what to click on. So far, clicks from the homepage are flat or slightly up, so this change hasn't had a negative effect on deepening visits, and may over time move us in a positive direction. On the channel homepages, we've drastically changed the layout to be more blog-like. My theory here was to give people a format they were more familiar with from elsewhere on the web, and results have been dramatic. The exit-rates (the percentage of visitors that leave Instructables from a particular page) on our channel homepages have been cut in half. For example, the exit-rate on the home channel homepage has dropped from 12% to 4.5%. This is really good! To me, this indicates that on the channel homepages we're giving visitors more compelling content, and they are more likely to dig into that content. In support of our efforts to deepen visits, we've been doing similar smaller changes all over the site. Most of these are based on our traffic and click analysis, and if my theories are wrong, we change back or try something else. One particular change that has generated concern is the removal of the Answers link from the header. This has nothing to do with our support of Answers in general -- it's based on data. That link was almost completely unused. Coming again from the perspective of making a slightly cleaner look, we removed it. As the link wasn't generating any clicks, traffic to Answers has been unaffected. In fact, as we're highlighting specific answers on the channel homepages, traffic to the Answers section is actually up 7% since we removed the link: from Feb. 1 - 18 answers did an average of 11.1 K pageviews per day; from Feb. 19 - 28 it's done 11.9 K pageviews per day. Perhaps that's noise in the data, but removing the link certainly hasn't been the end of answers, and the trend since the change is positive. So, we do rearrange the furniture from time to time, but it's never without reason. We're always trying to make Instructables better. We've messed up in the past, and we'll surely mess up in the future; but I think this is good, because if we're not reaching and striving a little bit beyond our comfort zone, we're not learning and improving.
Posted by ewilhelm 8 years ago
Some background: I have recently aquired a few really nice (and really heavy!!!) LAMBDA power supplies, The largest one supplies 24V, and up to 9A, but has annoying foldback current limiting, which causes the output shut off when even a short period overload (like inrush current) is detected. What I want: I would like to modify this power supply to give me (ideally) completly variable 0-15v dual rail voltages & 0-5A adjustable current limit, & I would like this to be controlled with arduino so that I can use a nice LCD display and control the supply remotely with a bluetooth or wifi app, and possibly do some data logging which could come in handy for energy measurements and stuff! My current PSU design: The schematic below is what I've currently built in LTspice. Both the voltage & current regulation work. The voltage across the (+) and (-) inputs of the current error amplifier should be the sum of the voltage drop across the shunt resistor and the voltage drop of a voltage reference, so when the voltage on the shunt resistor exceeds the voltage of that reference, the op amp will start to limit current by reducing the bias voltage on the pass transistor. This V_ref needs to be both variable and accurate, but since this V_ref is a differential voltage between the output of the pass transistor and the input of the error amp, I came up with the clever idea to use a resistor there and a variable constant current sink. That way the constant current through that resistor results in a fixed V_drop across it. With a bit of fudging around with it, I was able to make it work. However, I need to replace that "ideal" current sink with a real one. I tried using the classic NPN-based one, but it wasn't good enough. I then attempted to make the slightly improved version of that current sink with a spare op amp, although this worked, it would stop pulling current once the voltage fell below what was being maintained across the small resistor. The REAL question: Would anyone happen to know how to make a really accurate and variable current sink? Maybe if this is not such a great idea, what other methods can I use to generate a fixed differential voltage?
Asked by -max- 2 years ago
I'm on a small rural acreage. My shop situation is that I’ve got two separate, fairly compact spaces for working with wood (or general “handyman” repairs for the home) and for working with metal (cutting, welding, grinding, etc). My metal area is where I also often work with small-engine equipment. These spaces are located inconveniently, separated by nearly 100 feet! I think about how I might like to combine functions under one roof. So I’m posting to try to coax some of you people to show me how you may have done this. Or examples you've found on the internet (give URLs). Obviously, no one wants to get sawdust into an area where torch flames or electric-welding sparks could cause a hazard. And you wouldn’t want to get engine lubricants or solvents mixed up with wood projects. Discussion and description are fine, but I’d really like to see pictures or floor-plan diagrams if possible. I need examples that represent modest investment, as I could probably only afford to build an enclosure of about 16x24 ft, with a bay door. ( Yes - could probably learn something from shops that are somewhat bigger than this.) In grandfather's day, farm shops were usually multi-purpose. You know, for "bench carpentry", and maintaining or servicing the truck or tractor, welding bailer components back together, etc. Often had a tablesaw, maybe a bandsaw - besides the hoist, welders, socket wrenches. I suppose sometimes a fire did occur in one shop or another, but probably not often. I'd like to see some more modern versions, rather than just the "version" I have in terms of vague memories. Thanks.
Asked by Joel_BC 1 year ago
I need suggestion in digital logic design semester project,with use of gated ICs multiplexer etc.
Asked by szafar2 3 years ago
Milimeter studio has working on a 2d platform game and is looking for a few designers: - Art and graphic designer : with sample work, with strong hand drawing and full knowledge about an art program like Adobe Photoshop knowledge. - Frame by frame 2d animation designer: For motions of game's character : with sample work, with strong hand drawing. All of the Milimeter contacts (send files and etc) is via email address. So international designers from all of the world can work with Milimeter. Contact us: email@example.com
Posted by farzadbayan 7 years ago
I need help making the 3d design for a 3ds shell not a case but the shell
Posted by -Tykora- 5 years ago
Hi all first post here could someone recommend a good software package for PCB and circuit design and simulation on a budget preferably compatible with windows vista and 7 and with CNC capability (looking to build one in the future)
Posted by pmills4 5 years ago
how do i mirror my pcb design in pad2pad program... so i can print it and use toner transfer method? Answered
Title says it all doesnt say anything in help and i cant transfer it into another pcb design app...
Asked by raykholo 9 years ago
I'm looking to make two fairly identical hoodies. On the front, there is a fairly small, intricate logo, and on the back, large words. Does anybody have any ideas on the best way to put designs on a hoodie that will be replicatible and fairly inexpensive.
Asked by Appollo64 6 years ago
I have worked in the automobile repair industry for nearly 50 years and to the best of my knowledge, the reid and prince screw driver was originally designed and used by the european manufacturers. I state this in the form of a question and would like to know for sure. I have found the posidrive design is mostly used on mechanical items(under the hood) and the standard philips is typically used oninterior and exterior trim
Asked by mad mech 6 years ago