I punched a hole in my tub, which is fiberglass, ad I need help patching the hole.
Posted by rthomas0010 5 years ago
I have a few questions about using fiberglass: what's the difference in weight? i see cloth coming in different weights like 16oz, 20 oz, 1.5 oz, and i'm not sure the difference and what weight i should use for what purpose. does the price go up as the weight go up, or vise versa? as a beginner what weight would work best for me? what's the difference between fiberglass chop strand mat and fiberglass cloth? aside from a resin, a hardener, and a gel-coat (is there any other type of releaser?) what else would i need chemical wise? what's a good place to find all these materials online for low cost? does anyone know a good simple tutorial for making a fiberglass shell from a form?
Posted by Everfalling 8 years ago
I spent a lot of time in the Philippines and saw that they use woven bamboo mats to make the walls of houses. While at the hardware store I saw fiberglass resin and remembered the wired.com article about the guy and the bambo bike. This got me to thinking if there was a way to use woven bamboo mats as a subsitute for fiberglass cloth. Mainly because I am cheap and not for environmental concerns. maybe hand woven bamboo mats laminated together for plywood, or use as a boat hull? maybe housing material?
Posted by KungFuChicken 9 years ago
Hi Guys and girls, I am new to fiberglassing. I am working on custom panels on my car. I like to work with clay being artistic and all, I can sculpt out new body panels,diffusers, Spoilers etc. I wanted to make my own panel but not sure how toget a mold created. I am working with OIL BASED clay which does not dry out over time so I would like to keep the clay undamaged from the resins or whatsoever. I want to use fiberglass as my casting. So My question is what can I use to work with my clay? How is the layer process started? What materials what I need? (Easy setup,which Brand Resins with Plenty work Time) This pic is a general idea I have to start Thanks !
Posted by solid25 4 years ago
Hello, I am working on a project in Togo, West Africa whereby we make information commercials in the local language. Africa has roughly 3000 languages, and this device called "Mama Says," attracts the locals with films, then educates with announcements every 5 minutes in the local language. Most aid organizations do not seem to understand the locals do not speak the lingua franca language. I need a box made out of Fiber Reinforced Plastic, or something light, I need suggestions on how to find companies to do this? I need a step by step explanation on how to make a prototype, and estimations of cost? This is also for brainstorming, I am looking for ideas. Thank you, Andy Lee Graham of Hobo Traveler Com.
Posted by hobotraveler 2 years ago
I have a bunch of old PCBs laying around from various electronic projects, things I took apart and re-purposed, etc...Seeing as copper is roughly $0.25 per ounce, I would like to remove the copper from these PCBs, and sell it to a local coin shop that buys various scrap metals. I plan on sanding the solder mask off first, but after that, I don't know how to remove the copper from the fiberglass. Maybe just electroplate it onto another piece of copper? Please give me suggestions, thanks!
Posted by metrogdor22 7 years ago
My house is set relatively far from the road and I'd like a large address display. I was looking to punch out the numbers [5 digits] down the center of an old surfboard, but not sure about what tools to use to get through the resin and then the foam; without shredding or splintering it. I have variable band, scroll, recip and jig saws; and a variable speed Dremel. I'd like for it to be as detailed as possible [hard edges]. I'm of course planning to illuminate it. Any suggestions, recommendations, ideas would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Posted by Sovereignty 7 years ago
Hello all this is my first post on Instructables so thanks for taking the time to read ! I am looking for ideas on how i could manufacture a perfect, hallow, fibreglass sphere measuring around 4 metres in diameter (BIG) :) I have experience with using fibreglass but I am running out of ideas for how to make a plug on this scale and get it to be perfectly spherical... It has to be made from Fibreglass so i am really asking for help on making the mould. ANY help or suggestions would be gratefully received no matter how wacky ....I am willing to try anything. If your idea works I will be more than happy to name the first of these epic spheres after you !! All the best Ben
Posted by whitto2017 11 months ago
Ibuilding a custom car body out of polystyrene foam. Any advice on what to cover the foam with to strenghten it. I was thinking abot fiberglass but was really hoping to avoid it if possibe. Any suggestions on a strong alternative to fiberglass would be appreciated.
Posted by rednax718 2 years ago
A couple three or four years back I used a retired surfboard to illuminate my house address numbers. Cutting the fiberglass was a nightmare; it splintered, cracked and was nothing remotely close to precise or clean. I ended up cutting an open area in the deck of the surfboard [section where you'd typically stand]. I then used a jigsaw to carve a design of wood with address numbers inside. As an artist, I wasn't impressed with the outcome, but many, many others who've seen it seem to love it. Including those who purchased the house at our previous address. At any rate, I've been commissioned to create another, similar project. SInce it's going to be for someone else I'd really like it to be perfect; especially since my name will be associated. My question is, what tools are available [reasonable cost not an option -few hundred dollars give or take] in order to cut precision alpha-numeric characters in fiberglass or 1/8 to 1/4 wood completely through? I'd like sharp, nearly 90 degree angle on the characters/numbers. I've already tried a scroll saw on the fiberglass with less than desirable results. And the edges and corners were nothing close to 90 angles. My number '5' looked like the letter 'S'. Any help from you guys will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. The original post which Caitlyns Dad addressed. The link to the images is no longer valid: https://www.instructables.com/community/Cutting-through-a-surfboard
Posted by Sovereignty 3 years ago
Well i'm pretty ambitious in wanting to cosplay a charcter from from favourite tv show Xena : Warrior Princess, no matter how camp and cheesy it is :-P Most of the sewing and basic pieces such as armbands wristbands and the corseted dress are easy enough to do....the difficulty will be in replicating the 'metal armour' especially the breastplate Xena wears...and possibly the Chakram (that round frizbee like throwing thing :P ) So i've been looking around at different methods trying to get an all round idea of the best way to go about it, keeping in mind i'd want to keep this costume forever if possible (with a $2000 price of a Xena costume from Todd's costumes not being ideal) ...i want authenticity, with the armour being a strong and sturdy as possible with a DIY. Saying that the various instructables for Halo seem to be the way to go: Having seen three awesome tutorials that i could definitely see myself end up using: https://www.instructables.com/id/Halo-ODST-Armor-Helmet-Part-1-of-6-of-ODST-Armo/ https://www.instructables.com/id/Using-Paper-Resin-and-Fiberglass-to-be-the-Maste/ https://www.instructables.com/id/Build-Halo-Armor/?&sort;=ACTIVE&limit;=40&offset;=40 Going the Halo armour route honestly seem the easiest. As while i would love to get as close to authentic metal battle armour as possible....there is time, money, and skills to consider. Also through looking here: http://www.therpf.com/f24/need-help-xena-armor-85017/ I've seen that it might be quite possible to create a two piece mould to cast the items. This would involve making a paper mache cast of my chest...creating the shape of the breast plate onto that....removing the breast plate...probably shaped out of nice sturdy lay (or not). From there.....a mould could be cast from the breastplate....probably by something simply enough to mould around the front and the back of the breastplate....pressed to take on it's form and shape. One side would have to be done and dried/cured...the the other ensure the shaped of the breast plate is imprinted correctly and that non of the resin will seep through the mould... Now. I would love ideas for methods, materials, best way to paint to cast as i am a total noob just throwing around ideas at this stage. Some questions: Would it be possibly to use some as a finish so that the breastplate and other items actually feel like they are made of metal (never mind that there filled with resin)? How hard and how brittle would the resin be? Is it just like plastic? Will it break easily? If there is say a bit of side spillage when casting the resin, would it be possible to fix, say cut it off? What about the possibility of using Precious Metal Clay? Wouls it be hard/brittle/expensive/breakable? Is there such a think as bendable resin? (say for the armbands and wristbands) Would it be possible to 'coat' (as you might paint) resin onto the clay breastplate and remove it to create a replica? (without the need for a two part mould in this case)
Posted by Mavican 7 years ago
Hello everybody! I've moved most of my robotics projects to Let's Make Robots (All LMR are belong to us!) and I'm gonna do some wood-working now! I decided to build a kayak. Why? I dunno, I want to build one, and I always wanted to go kayaking. No I'm not gonna go take lessons (tips/tricks are welcome), I'll train myself. I'm expecting a couple capsizes. LOL. Anyways, I found a program that helps to design kayaks called Kayak Foundry. The software tells me where to put the sheer strip, where the waterline will be, and it also generates the forms to build from. The only problem I have is that this thing will cost $400-$450 to build. Before I invest that kind of money in a possible failure, I need to know if I have a stable design. Below are the cross sections and a model I made in Google Sketchup (gotta love free software!). Take a look at them, I need to know: -Is the design stable -Will it float with a 185lb man in it The software gave me a stability rating of 90 (out of 100, with 40-50 being a racing kayak) Also, there are pictures of data from the software. the red line on the graph is my design, the black line is the target. Also, on the volume distribution curve, the line should be right in the middle (the cockpit or whatever it is called should be in the middle of the boat.) I guess I forgot to save or something. If you can help, please do. I'd rather not spend $400-$450 dollars on an unstable boat that always capsizes. Thanks, Gimmelotsarobots
Posted by gimmelotsarobots 8 years ago
I am setting up a factory for making vacuum-formed acrylic shower bases reinforced with fiberglass. I will be dealing with resin fumes, microscopic glass fibers (from cutting and handling the fiberglass batts) and larger dust particles of acrylic, fiberglass and cured resin from cutting off the bottoms of these units. I am in China, and the factoryies I have seen merely have fans and blow the stuff outside, with some directing the dusty air over a bit of water that supposedly collects the dust. Being from Canada I cannot accept such a poor solution, but my newly hired employee seems to think that the concept is best. I will be looking into cyclone systems, of which a few posts are made on this site, but can anyone post a fairly simple instructable on how to make a water based system for collecting the dust?
Posted by WHET 7 years ago
I am trying to restore an original thor larsen ovalia egg chair for my game room. i have stripped out all of the old worn out fabric from the interior down to the bare rough fiberglass. i'm trying to adhere fabric to this rough fiberglass using spray adhesives with little success so far. i have tried using 3m super 77 adhesive and also misty foam and fabric adhesive. my test piece of fabric pulled off easily after letting the adhesive set up for over 24 hours. i'm wondering if anyone has some ideas on this process of adhering fabric to fiberglass that i may be missing. i've looked for info on restoring a piece like this one and have come up short so far. so any info or ideas of things to try would be welcome. thanks!
Posted by cej0 6 years ago
I'm making a costume that looks like this- This is actually my profile image. I have lots of corrugated carboard (but no large pieces yet-just medium sized boxes), thin cardboard, foamboard, and a sheet or two of lexan/plexiglass (for the green spikes), and I think I can get some fiberglass, resin, and some bondo. Does anybody have any advice on bending, cutting, dying(lexan-all I've got is clear) the cardboard, foamboard, or lexan? I've also never worked with fiberglass before-all I've heard is that it's a mess. Any tips? If anyone can help me with the head, antenna, armor, or especially the chest, I'd greatly apreciate it.
Posted by MattGyver92 9 years ago
Hey all, I couldn't find anyone who sells these on the Internet so I'd like to find the best way to make them. The cups would be about 2ft tall, and would look just like a plastic cup used at beer parties. I'm throwing my buddy his bachelor party and this would be hilarious! I was thinking maybe carving half the cup out of a Styrofoam block then, laying fiberglass in it. Then gluing the two pieces together. I'm not sure about drinking out of a fiberglass cup though. Thoughts on building this, or a link where I could buy something like this would be greatly appreciated. Cheers!
Posted by narino 10 years ago
Hello everyone, I'm a new guy from Austria, sorry if my english is bad sometimes. I think about getting a Ipad2 in 2 weeks (yes 2 more weeks to wait in europe) and I can't stop thinking about how to craft a beautiful case, my Idea was to produce something surfboardlike, like a fiberglass layer around the back of the ipad, and then coat it with White topcoat, also a bit structure would be nice to feel like a real surfboard. Has anyone ever done something similar to this? I have never worked with fiberglass, and i think it coud get a bit tricky (especially when sanding it). would be great to hear some ideas! Greetings Bruno
Posted by orso7 7 years ago
Hey guys im building an enclosed recumbent motorcycle and i am a bit stuck. im making the outer skin. to get a working aerodynamic shape, complex curves and all i want to use some flexible sheet which i can connect to the strong points of the motorcycle. i am thinking of using that polypropilene chicken wire, and i wonder if it would be good enough to be the base of the fairing and put fibreglass on top. my brother wants to use cedar strips as a base and cardboard strips mounted over them and fibreglass the resultant mess. then bondo the lot. any ideas. i am not describing this very well. a single sheet of a flexible matting will save me the trouble of making a mould of the fairing. thanks guys.
Posted by maninamousesuit 7 years ago
While researching patch kits for pebble and resin coating for concrete stairs, one supplier claimed that ONLY their resin would not eat concrete. Is it true that some resins will eat the concrete? Will fiberglass resin work for this? The pebbles are about 1/8"
Posted by Toga_Dan 4 years ago
Hey everyone, I've been thinking about a new project lately. And for that I need a lot of tips. So here is what, why and how. Introduction: I'm currently making a welding helmet out of an old beer keg as in the instructable of bricobart. When I started with it I though about using the keg as sheet material to make a papercraft mask, probably Dr. Doom or the ABC warrior Hammerstein from the first Judge Dredd movie. I quickly realised it wouldn't provide me the result I like to have, so now I'm just making the 'simple' version from bricobart. But I don't give up that easily. I also want to make something out of fiberglass and epoxy resin for a while, just to have the experience and to try it. So my quest for the perfect helmet/mask continued. I found Fallout helmets, which have tubing on which I could attach a breathing device. But finally I came to this Erebor helmet from the Hobbit. The plan: The plan is to make the Erebor helmet with a hinged visor. I am planning on using several pepakura helmet models and combine them to make the helmet suitable for my welding purpose. The hinged visor and all other mechanics like that I can work out myself. The paper helmet will then be covered with epoxy and fiberglass as can be seen in several other instructables. To make it smooth and for details, I will use car body filler. (I already know EVA foam is the better choice for the helmet, but I don't trust is with the temperature of the welding and I read things about epoxy resins not werking properly on EVA foam.) However, I never used epoxy resin/fiberglass/car body filler or any of these kind of materials. So therefor I need al the help I can get from here. What kind of stuff is suitable for my welding helmet due to high temperature (gradient)? What is the best way to go so all parts will connect properly? Is it wise to start this project?(Please don't answer no, because I will probably won't listen). Painting tips, epoxy tips, general tips etc. Thanks in advance.
Posted by ruudcreates 4 years ago
I don' t have the technical or computer skills to make this happen, but I'll bet someone out there does. I've heard of and read about these polymer 3d model makers and I understand that a few colleges have them. I know that one in my area does, as it was reported in the local newspaper. I also understand that they are quite expensive. I've seen the Instructables for some 2D routing tables, and even a couple for 3D work, using a hot glue gun or some other flexible material for building the model. Crude results, comparatively speaking, but impressive from the standpoint of the home hobbyist. I've recently learned of a product called Solarez, which is a UV curing resin for fiberglass work. No limits on the working time of the resin, no gelling up in the middle of a job, it seems like a dream for complex fiberglass projects. Put it in the sun and three minutes later, it's fully cured. There are videos on YouTube for the fiberglassing aspect of things. They are not as exciting as the Instructables, but they are instructional. I plan to use Solarez in my future fiberglass projects, but I have a quart of very expensive epoxy resin to use up first. I figure if you fill an aquarium with Solarez and put a Z-axis table at the bottom, and a 2D UV laser on the top, you've got exactly the same thing for which others are paying thousands of dollars. I don't know how strong the Solarez would be in a stand-alone construction and I doubt that the manufacturer of Solarez intended it to be used in this manner, nor do I know how the stuff would react to a UV laser, and if it is practical from an elapsed time frame of reference. Again, I don't have the tech skills, nor even the need for such a device, but I think it's within the skill set of some of the more talented Instructable builders here. Just some random thoughts...
Posted by fred_dot_u 8 years ago
Hey fellow Authors, i've been working on the following model for my business, strictly ornamental. I've come this far and don't know how to continue without destroying the time and money already invested. My goal is to cover it with some material and make it look like a statue. Maintaining still a polygonal feel to it. I want to paint it glossy red. I've thought about using fiberglass, plaster, paper (as found in a tutorial in the internet), Cover it with a pepakura mesh. But i'm still not sure how to proceed. I fear fiberglass to be too messy and complicated, plaster could ruin the cardboard dampening it, paper makes it look like a cheap piñata, pepakura would requiere a lot of trial and error to get the pieces to match the "skeleton" and problematic at the end to give it the glossy and professional feeling im looking for. Any ideas guys?? Sorry for the resolution on the first image, I didn't have my lap with me at the time of this post.
Posted by tammasus 3 years ago
I'm looking to make a realistic, fairly inexpensive Jason (Friday the 13th, hockey mask, machete-wielding badass) mask for my Halloween costume and I need some help. The only affordable masks I'm finding are flimsy plastic ones like the one on the photo below or foam masks that look like they're for a 5 year old. I've seen some pretty good fiberglass ones on ebay (like the one in the second picture I've included), but they run over a $100....and none of them are exactly what I want. So, I want to make one.... I'm thinking I can take one of the cheap plastic ones and alter it....I want to do more than just paint it though. I want to make the mask more rigid and appear more like resin or fiberglass than plastic. So, I need some sort of liquid or putty that looks something like resin to cover the mask in that will make the mask more rigid and still allow me to paint on it. and I'll probably drill some more holes to match the ones in the movie and put leather straps on it. any thoughts? anyone made a Jason mask before that could offer some advice?
Posted by movieguy711 10 years ago
I ran across this car swamp cooler on ebay and thought it looked like it would be easy to make and was wondering if anyone here had made something similar. We're considering using fiberglass instead of metal and maybe a hepa filter.. in case the autions ends before you see the pics, it's a firestone swamp cooler that fits on car window and cools using forced air. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Vintage-Firestone-swamp-cooler-Rat-Hot-Rod-A-C-Chevy_W0QQitemZ200440285326QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item2eab2c088e I tried to grab the pics from the site, but they were java MelissaJ
Posted by dulciquilt 8 years ago
Here's an idea I had but realistically won't have time to work on. Okay, so there are these things called kit cars that have been around for years. Basic idea being, you put a cooler looking body on your regular everyday car. Neat idea but even the cheap ones start about 3 grand! That's a lot of money for a raw chunk of fiberglass to add to car not worth half that. Also there are other disappointments like: good luck getting the exact design you want that just happens to fit your make/model. Now in seemingly unrelated news these cosplay people have figured out how to (ab)use some software called pepakura to print out life-sized paper models of swords and armor and stuff. Then to make them useable they fiberglass them, bondo and paint... HEY! WAIT A MINUTE! That's all car autobody stuff! You see where I'm going with this. Thus, therefore, and in conclusion my suggestion is that you do the following: 1) Watch "The Hero Tutorials" on youtube. Pretty much the definitive guide for the paper cosplay thing. 2) Print out a lifesize copy of the batmobile or whatever and tape it to your car. 3) Do the autobody thing for tedious weeks on end. 4) Post an instructable in a contest I'm entered in and swipe the prize right from under my nose. 5) I feel sad at having become the instrument of my own undoing... yet console myself over the fact that the net awesomeness of the universe has increased significantly.
Posted by PS118 5 years ago
Instead of the traditional methods, this surfboard is based on a core that's made up of nearly 400 pieces of cut cardboard that intersects and is then coated with fiberglass and resin. So far it's only a one-off, but more will surely be made.When it came time to replace his old surfboard, Mike Sheldrake decided to build his own. But the former Web programmer didn't have the sculpting skills to carve one out of foam the way professional builders do. So he used 3-D modeling software to design a snap-together deck that's as sturdy as a conventional model and performs just as well, made from the cheapest material he could find: cardboard. link
Posted by fungus amungus 10 years ago
My Airsoft gun is a Crosman Stinger P32, clear, manual, 6mm, spring-powered pistol. 10 in the mag, 50 in the reservoir. I bought a jar of 10,000 bbs with it too (also Crosman), which are labbelled as "camo ammo" (why would you ever want camo ammo? I find it annoying because there's no way to find them in the grass!). The gun came with a small jar of 400 bbs, with a flip spout. My friend also bought some really crappy bbs in South Africa for one rupee (it says "1.00 R" on the price sticker), but his airsoft gun broke so he gave em to me (they're in a grenade shaped jar). The gun came with an extra clip. I made a holster for it out of the blister package, which I might make an instructable out of (it already perfectly its the gun!). The pellets were $29, and the gun was about $30. I got it summer 2006.I also have a pellet gun, which I don't remember the brand of. It's a break-barrel. I've had it for a year or two. It's my family's though, not just mine (my dad bought it for us).My bow is a red fiberglass, which I don't know the brand of or anything. The draw-weight is 9 and a half pounds. I got it when I was 9 or 10, and I'm 15 now. It's a little weak for me now. I have 5 arrows, one of which is somewhere in the pile of hay bales. They're all target arrows (roundheads), 3 of them are fiberglass, the other 2 are wood. The bow costed about $50.What guns and bows and other type thingies do you have?
Posted by Aeshir 11 years ago
Hi all! I go into the wilderness with my research and build electronic gizmos. See this overview of our camp: https://youtu.be/RSKbZFIG62g?t=2m11s and the desk in question! To support this me and Hannah Perner-Wilson have been trying to create tools for infrastructure for backpacking in the wild (also see her wearable studio descriptions http://www.plusea.at/?p=5385). The tool im working on right now is a modular lightweight desk we can suspend between trees. It's actually going pretty great! You can see Matt here soldering and building on this bench. it worked WAY BETTER than expected. I though it was gonna be TOO wiggly, or bouncy and impossible to work on. Turns out, it just worked really well! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UJQrnl3-27c the only PROBLEM however was with our panels. I used these sheets of like MDF (or something). They are that material that pegboards are made out of. They were great because they were thin and rigid. But they were still pretty heavy and they absorbed water. I want your advice on materials. I want something that Is rigid! (will hold its own shape under compression and/or tension) Can support lots of tools and stuff on top Strong (will stand up to beatings in the field, and smashproof inside backpack) Thin (packs into backpack well) Cut-able (less important) (won't give off evil fumes or particles if i need to cut or modify it at home (or even in the field) Not crazy-beans expensive (like it seems like carbon fiber panels are) I was thinking like fiberglass maybe? http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-fiberglass-sheets/=xu6e5k is that a good idea? Carbon fiber (though super expensive)? what are your ideas?
Posted by blorgggg 3 years ago
I've been wanting to build a Stargate helmet for a very long time but there was no way I could spend the cash to sculpt one in clay and do a fiberglass casting in a silicone mold so I had to improvise by using cardstock, paper mache and foam. I really wasn't going for screen accuracy as this is intended to be a costume helmet instead of an accurate replica. When I set out to build this I wanted it to be light weight, low cost and most importantly I wanted it to move. I still have quite a bit of work left to do- I still need to add the glowing eyes and do some filling, sanding and detail work plus paint. Watching it move for the first time was just awesome. :) &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;
Posted by Honus 6 years ago
My 6 year old broke his arm on friday night, they can't do a fiberglass cast until tomorrow. I was thinking what if I prewired an ultra bright LED and ask them to wrap it into the cast with just the led poking out. I was thinking I could decorate his cast to look like Buzz Lightyear's arm with a "laser". The wire could come out the top that I could connect a battery pack to so he can turn it on and off. Is this a good idea or not too smart? I'm trying to think of ways to make my son feel a little better about having a cast for 8 weeks.
Posted by tonythemediaguy 5 years ago
Long time fan, first time poster. I'm looking to convert a cool-looking vintage toolbox into a heavy duty lunchbox. I'm currently prepping the metal for paint and looking into what I can use to insulate the box. I've thought of: * spray foam insulation: Good coverage and thermal protection, but not water-resistant enough (think condensation) * fiberglass insulation (pink stuff): Good, but unsure about how cold it will keep things * styrofoam: probably the one inch sheets used for basement walls below grade. Best solution so far. Before I do something that will likely mean stripping the box clean and starting over, I thought it best to see what others might have to say about this. Any and all help is greatly appreciated!
Posted by Jiggsy 8 years ago
It's my take on the Ice King's crown. For the "gold" part, I first tried gluing plastic paint buckets together, but they were too thin. I ended up covering the outside of one bucket in Bondo and then cutting in the peaks with a jeweler's saw. For the jewels, I cut a positive mold for each one out of a scrap of cutting board, then pressed them into clay to make a negative mold. Then I mixed up some casting resin and red dye and cast the jewels. They were epoxied onto the crown before I locked them in with Bondo bezels. If I were to do it again, I would use a more acute conic shape and make the peaks taller. I might also use fiberglass-reinforced Bondo and try a different gold paint. If I'm real adventurous I'll cast the thing out of scrap aluminum.
Posted by JamesRPatrick 5 years ago
Hey guys! This September I plan to drive from the Austin Texas area to California City, California for Wasteland Weekend, a big old Mad Max / Fallout / PAW styled bash in the desert. I'm currently going for a Lone Ranger meets Zorro in a Mad Max car look to my costume, but now my attention turns to my car, and my chariot of carnage: 1990 Chevrolet Corvette. What's some cool non permanent stuff I can do to my car? It is fiberglass, so unfortunately magnets won't stick. The car already has faded, shoddy grey paint, so that is a plus. Also, any general road tripping advice? it's about 3k miles round trip. at highway cruise I average 27 mpg, but I'm making my fuel consumption estimates on 20 mpg.
Posted by KentsOkay 4 years ago
So i want to make a coffee table/beer pong table. like this http://media.pongalong.com/images/bestbeerpongtables/BudLightBeerPongTable.jpg So it is going to be 3' x 8' and i want to have 2 sets of legs underneath of it. A short set for the coffee table and another set that are taller to use it as a beer pong table, or just a regular table for that matter. So my main question is where can i find locking hinges for the Table legs? I have found some, but don't seem to be very heavy duty. I want them to be able to lock the legs in the horizontal position to hide them under the table while the other legs are locked in the vertical position. Also does anybody have any suggestions for cheap fiberglass or resin to coat the bottle caps. Didn't realize how expensive the stuff is. Cheaper is better.
Posted by HICKFARM 7 years ago
I've got one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Pyramid-PB70-Power-Amplifier-Booster/dp/B000A896FW/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie;=UTF8&qid;=1296352335&sr;=1-1 A Pyramid 150 watt audio amplifier, hooked up to a pair of Pyle 5.25" 140 watt speakers. I'd like to get a 12v battery to run it it for a few hours, but I don't know what kind of amp hours I'm going to need. Any ideas? I'd use a car battery, but I want to be able to fit the whole she-bang into an ammo can. Also looking at making a fiberglass backpack speaker enclosure for snowboarding / biking, and I want to try and keep the weight down. I don't know if I can use a 12v cordless drill battery pack, or if I should try sealed lead acid batteries.
Posted by samlynn79 7 years ago
After seeing this https://www.instructables.com/id/Solid-Wood-Digital-Clock/, would it be possible to replicate this but light up just a solid image? It would most likely require a CNC machine to pull off well, but if you took a piece 10cmx10cmx1cm of wood then milled out an image of something to 0.5m would it be possible to shine a LED through it to just bring up the outline while the rest of the wood is too dense/coated and you're just left with a image shining through wood. I think you would be able to pull off some pretty cool artwork with it, but there's a few things that need to be considered; such a strength, the chance of it getting bumped is pretty low but with a thin diameter so the light can shine through it's probably quite fragile. Are there transparent fiberglass weaves/epoxy coatings that would add some strength while not ruining the effect? The other big thing I see is colors, would there be any limit factors with the different species of woods you can buy or is the main problem just getting a solid image lit up instead of just LED dots.
Posted by Thatkiwiguy 5 years ago
I'd like to try making my own bathroom sink, and I'm wondering what sort of material(s) would resist cracking / chipping / discoloration, and preferably not be poisonous. My first thought was some sort of cast resin. Googling "cast resin sinks" will turn up a ton of cool looking products. Bonus is being able to light it up from the inside. I'm not sure what sort of resin is used for those products, though. I also considered the "inverse": sculpting a shape out of wood etc., then layering it with something like Aquaresin with fiberglass reinforcement, and polishing. Might not be a tough enough surface, but perhaps could be sealed with an epoxy / urethane / what have you. I'm not sure that going fired clay will give me the modern / futuristic look I'm going for... Unless there's a way to have someone apply a glossy ceramic coating to a piece that you bring in. Concrete was considered and discarded - mostly for aesthetic reasons, but also weight. Really, resin seems the easiest route - but still looking for input from any materials experts out there.
Posted by meeotch 4 years ago
Hello everyone! Name's DJ_DAN. Just need some URGENT HELP! I just saw some videos of a Drum & Bass Festival called Pirate Station Network. It's robot head design really got me, and I like to make a fully wearable DJ helmet with animated LEDs for the eyes, and a black grid-ish metal mesh for the mouth. Something like this: http://www.featurepics.com/FI/Thumb300/20100216/Black-Metal-Grid-1460869.jpg And really basic animations for the eyes, like fading in & out, flashing, standing still, etc. The base could be made from fiberglass or mabye carbon fiber. The eye "lens" maybe could be made from plexiglas or something like that. And the "headphones" could be the part of the helmet, with built-in headphones. I just slighty edited the design of the original PSN robot helmet, which looks like something like this: http://www.4shared.com/photo/3miIkBII/robothelmetdesign.html PLEASE! I just want to know who could do one for me or at least how could I start to make the helmet! PLEASE HELP! (And sorry for my English...)
Posted by dj-dan 6 years ago
I'm putting a 'penthouse' sleeping shell on the top of my chevy astro van. i got a truck canopy, cut it in half, and i'll be joining the two halves to make a room to sit up there. i have to build out the front of the room, and i'm going round and round about how to do it. i could use wood, plywood and stringers, but that presents problems with joining the wood, weight, and the funky look. i've thought about making a frame out of 1/2 conduit, and filling in the space with 2 in plastic foam they use to insulate houses- it would be easy to cut to fill in curvy/complex shapes. but how do i 'glue' them together? the build out will extend a little over the windshield of the van, to give me more room and make something artsy... it IS an art car. if i used foam pieces, i could skin it over with fiberglass to make it a little rigid and watertight. but i've never seen it done.any other ideas???? imagine that big boxy open space at the front becomes a kind of "nose" shape. how to do that? and maybe include some windows so i'm not all claustrophic'd in there...?? needs to be cheap materials, water-proofable and sturdy enough to not fly away. TIA!of course, i'll be documenting the build for an instructrable. see: http://picasaweb.google.com/thaikarl/PuttingAPenthouseOnTheRocketVan#
Posted by Thaikarl 9 years ago
Sign-up for this newsletter: Welcome back! NEW! Get in the Garden Contest - Enter any Instructable with a gardening theme and win a very cool computer-controlled indoor composting machine from NatureMill! Art of Sound Contest - Share any sound or music-related Instructable in our new contest and win an incredible custom hi-fi tower set with subwoofer or monster speakers! Get the LED Out! Contest - Enter any Instructable that involves LEDs, and win some amazing lights from Monkeylectric! Results are up for the Mother's Day Contest and Earthjustice United States of Efficiency Contest. See the winners here and here! The SteamRoller Riding Contraption Table for Electronic Dreams Make Traditional Baguettes by Hand Build Custom Speakers - Art of Sound Contest Win a high-tech computer-controlled composter and easily turn scraps into soil! Simple Metalworking Techniques ValveLiTzer Guitar Pedal Redux Make a Fridge Alarm to Catch Thieves Powder Coat a Bike Frame with Logos Ballistic Gel Use Sculpey on a Vinyl Toy Solar Light Up Rock Stairwell Pita Pizza: The Five Minute Snack Share your best LED creations! Win these custom hi-fi speakers! Acoustic Vulcan Lyre Crutch Chair Fortune Boat Lamp Make a Fiberglass Speaker Enclosure Sign-up for this newsletter:
Posted by fungus amungus 9 years ago
I have a vision for a project but am unsure what would be the best means of achieving it. When I was a kid, I had a bug collection. My grandfather found a perfectly preserved wasp in his garage and saved it for me in a plastic syrup bottle lid. Over the decades all my other insect specimens crumbled (I was a kid, so I just had them loose in a school box without proper mounts) but this wasp is STILL intact and perfect inside the syrup cap more than 20 years later! My grandfather was very special to me, and I was toying with the idea of somehow metal plating this wasp to turn it into a pendant. I have no experience with metal working and don't own the stuff to do it, but i'm open to purchasing materials if my goal even seems realistic. It is a fragile exoskeleton, which probably limits what I can do in terms of casting I have wondered about brush coating it with fiberglass resin (to strengthen it) and then painting it with gold leaf, but many of the faux gold leaf paints out there are pretty crappy looking. Fearing I might just end up destroying the wasp, I've also thought maybe I should just get a Ryker mount and hang him with the rest of my legit insect collection, though it is not posed properly and is likely waaaaaay too old to be re-relaxed for posing. If any experienced jewelry makers, gold leaders, or entomologists have thoughts on how to successfully gild this wasp (or why not to), I welcome your ideas! Thanks in advance.
Posted by ashleyjlong 2 years ago
I have multiple smell problems in my basement. A bit of information to assist: The floor is a concrete slab The outer walls are made of cinder block About 80 percent of the outer walls are under ground (on the outside of the house) There are two rooms in the basement, a laundry room and a finished room (currently used as a bedroom) It is bare cinder block wall on the exterior wall in my laundry room It is drywall over wood frame wall against the cinder block (with fiberglass insulation) in the finished room The laundry room has some bare concrete and some vinyl stick on tiles as a floor The finished room has concrete slab (unpainted and untreated) covered with carpet padding and then carpet The carpet in the finished room is about four years old I have had the entire basement tested for mold. mildew, etc. with the results showing none. I am not sure when the house was built. Our house is near Annapolis, Maryland The two smell issues are as follows: The laundry room always has a pretty strong musty smell. In the winter when it is cold, the smell is not as strong. As the weather warms up the smell gets stronger and stronger. I have read that the warm weather draws moisture into the basement threw the walls creating the smell and that a dehumidifier will eliminate. Dehumidifier removes a lot of water daily and may help a bit with the smell but does not get rid of it. The finished room has an odor problem that does not seem to be in the entire room but is certainly present in one corner of the room where the two exterior walls meet. The smell is not really strong on the walls but pretty strong in a 4X4 section of the floor in the corner. My wife smells it all of the time, I can smell it when I put my nose top the carpet. My wife ha a nightstand near that corner and can smell the odor in cloths that she keeps in the nightstand. This section is in the right corner of the room. In the left corner of the room, we have a 4X8 walk-in closet. She smell the odors from both rooms in the walk-in closet and also smells it in her clothes that are in there. Any help with either of these issues would be greatly appreciated.
Posted by garyinfante 3 years ago
Added 5/26/07: Please read the comments below to see how the project is evolving. Design specs, goals, etc, have been modified after discussion.Hi Folks,For several years I've been wanting to build a kite powered proa. A proa is a kind of boat with a narrow hull and a smaller outrigger. These Instructables are about building a proa with a traditional sail:https://www.instructables.com/id/ERIIBDCCOTEPUCHZ1K/?ALLSTEPShttps://www.instructables.com/id/EZN8M3OCWZEV2Z7IR5/?ALLSTEPSThese are kite-powered proa-like vehicles for land and ice:https://www.instructables.com/id/EPKZ5O80HQEQZJI20F/?ALLSTEPShttps://www.instructables.com/id/EPWWSYZNWIEV2ZKLCH/?ALLSTEPSGoals for the project:1. Make at least one good boat.2. Publish a good Instructable.3. Work with interesting people.I am definitely going ahead with #1 & #2. #3... anyone interested?The Boat: Generally it should be appealing/attainable by as wide a range of budgets and circumstances and skill levels as possible.a. It should be fun to mess around with starting in about 6 or 7 mph of wind (3 m/s).b. A beach boat, not an overnighter. Should be able to carry one or two people, a paddle, personal flotation device and maybe a sandwich and a water bottle.c. Storable in a typical apartment (maybe even a dorm room?). I'm thinking a 2-part bolt-together hull like Wade Tarzia's above. Two halves, each under 8 feet long so they can be stored on end, maybe used as bookshelves as suggested by TimAnderson. What is a typical ceiling height? Mine is about 91"d. Possible to build on a restricted budget ($200? is that possible? $400?). I'm budgeting about $500 but as a cheapskate packrat scrounger type I am hoping not to spend it all. Should also avoid necessitating rare and expensive tools.e. It should be possible to make a "good looking" version if the builder chooses.... sort of financially and chronologically(?) scalable. Someone might want to build something as quickly and cheaply as possible, and another person might want to spend all summer working on the fine details and finish. The boat should be worth building in either case.f. Should be able to take a passenger (is that possible if we rely on weight-shifting for steering?), but be sailable single-handed.g. Possibly be adaptable to a traditional sail? Would this be hard? This is something I don't need for myself, but I bet someone will ask that question as soon as we publish it. If someone doesn't already have a kite, is it easier to build a kite, or a sail and associated mods to the boat?h. Probably plywood stitch-and-glue construction main hull, but maybe carved from a couple of Styrofoam billets with a plywood stringer and/or deck? Leaning towards all plywood. If we fiberglass the whole boat can we use 1/4" interior luaun at $9 per 4x8 sheet? Is that more practical and cost effective than something like occume at $60 per sheet with glass on just the keel and joints? We'd need 3 sheets. Need to do some calculations on this.i. Usable in flat water, chop and small waves (and bigger waves?). Mine will be used mostly at an ocean beach.j. Steerable by weight-shifting, i.e. moving towards the front or back of the boat. No rudders or daggerboards. Maybe paddle-assisted steering when carrying a passenger/helmsman?The Instructable:a. Should be a good read, even for folks who won't undertake the project. b. Doubles as an Instructable on how to collaborate to make a great project and a great Instructable.c. Represents everyone involved in the project in some way.d. Gives the potential builder a rough "how to sail it" as well?e. Presents the reader with several options for materials and/or construction.f. All the regular "what makes a good Instructable" things.The Interesting People:a. Everyone is interesting in some way or another, right?b. Some people like to do research on the web.c. Some people have built boats.d. Some people some know about wood, or glue, or paint, or kites, or sails, or writing, or... e. Maybe someone will build the boat concurrently so we'll have pictures of two or more versions at various stages when we publish the Instructable.Let me be the first to sign up :) I have been using kites to get around fields, beaches, frozen lakes and the ocean for 10+ years. I make my own kite boards and have made my own kites (I use commercial kites now but still love my homemade plywood boards). I've done a fair amount of web research on proas and plywood boats (and some on tarp boats, canvas covered canoes, surfboards, etc.) but I have never built a boat. I experimented with a busted up, rudderless old hobie 14 for a while, but my homemade foot-steerable rudders broke almost instantly, and shortly after that I had to abandon the boat because I moved to a place where it couldn't be stored. It was enough to get me interested. I'm pretty confident I could build a usable boat as a solo project but I want to see how much better it could be as a collaboration, or at least having a few folks commenting on my ideas.I have a small assortment of cheap power tools. I've used epoxy and fiberglass a few times and I have some on hand.I have permission from my lovely bride-to-be to use part of the kitchen, part of the time, as my workshop (that's true love). I also have a small are outside where I can work but I can't leave anything there.The pictures are my initial hull ideas. For each hull one pic shows the hull from 3 angles and the other shows how the side pieces would fit on two sheets of plywood. A third sheet would be needed for the deck and a fourth (of thicker stuff, I would guess?) for the frames, bulkheads, etc. I'll attach the files for the hulls too. You can get the freeware to view and edit them at www.carlsondesign.com.The simple V hull would mean less cutting and joining. The other one looks better (in my opinion) and can float more weight with the same amount of plywood.Could instead go with a flat bottom like Wade's.Let me know what you think.Thanks!
Posted by flywoodkb 11 years ago
First, I am not affiliated with this company at all. But, the HPV team I am on has used this company as a supplier for glass and epoxy resin the past two years with excellent success :) Even the gentlemen from Lockheed Martin that has helped us greatly was pleased with the resin.http://www.uscomposites.com/ http://www.uscomposites.com/epoxy.html <-- the resin (their brand - west systems is great, just expensive)We used the medium hardener/epoxy which gave us a pot life around 20+ minutes at 75ish degrees F and cured overnight or so. I highly recommend the pump attachments to make measuring an exact science.With one exception, every batch we made came out perfect. That exception was a set of test samples that took four days under heat lamps to cure. We think that there wasn't enough hardener to kick properly. The stuff was used to make HPV fairings for the past two years with a K-mat core. The picture here is last year's fairing that got vacuum bagged.Funny story, the gentleman that assisted us (with his experience) apparently knows Burt Rattan - you know, the man that built SpaceShipOne. The window idea was just an off the cuff joke we had that eventually made its way into solid works and ProE -- and then when no other window design was thought up it was cut out :PWhen I remember where we got it, I'll post our source for Micro Balloons (air encapsulated in glass) and K-mat (square scored foam core backed with a very thin layer of glass weave).Going from memory - the fairing below used 3mm Kmat core with S-class woven glass (can't remember weight). We might have used E-class glass too (not sure) because we have a roll of it from last year. Flanges (not shown) are used to support the upper canopy in place. They are made from glass with a "coremat" core. The lower removable section also has a flange to hold screw bosses - this was made from the same "coremat" setup.The whole thing was layed up on a male plug that was made from Styrofoam that was cut on a waterjet in 1 inch thicknesses - glued together - sanded - filled - glassed (to get it nice and smooth) and then covered with a wax mold release. When everything was layed up, a vacuum bag was cut for it and I believed they pulled 10psi (they went higher and the foam started collapsing).Now you may think I'm sharing trade secrets or something. Maybe so - but the experience we had access to was so helpful (this stuff looks a lot easier than it really is). I'm told that enclosed rear wheel was pretty difficult -- and it got quite a bit of attention at the competition :PAs I find more pictures and videos from past projects -- I'll post what I've learned. If you have any questions, I'll try to answer. Just keep in mind I'm not an expert :PPS: Next time you ride Dr. Doom at Universal Studios, Orlando -- look up at the decorations and such on the ride. Our experienced friend did all of those - yes, those pyramid/circular thingamabobs are fiberglass (he still has the molds :P). He came in 100lbs underweight ;)
Posted by trebuchet03 11 years ago