Fish In A Light Bulb

So I was wondering do you think it would be possible to take an old ligth bulb hallow it out and use it as a fish bowl for a mini fish?  Im just not sure should I put a small plant in there and if so what kind of plant so maybe just a little air pump while Im gone.  Or would a small fish be fine if I put some rocks on the bottom and then just changed it once a month or so?  Or would it end up being every day do you think? Ethan PS I hope people dont bite my head off thinking Im a horrible person I just like the idea of having a fish in a light bulb I think it would look cool so Im asking before I do it and accidentally kill a fish...

Topic by mindstormmaster1 9 years ago  |  last reply 6 years ago

portable fish house led lighting

Hello, I am looking for help on how to figure out what I need to construct a couple of led strip lights for a portable fish house. I what to make them out of 4ft tubes and connect them to a 12volt, 9 amp deep cycle battery. How do I go about figuring what to use to get as much light with least amount of draw on battery. 

Topic by 58fern 3 years ago  |  last reply 3 years ago

Led light

I'm struggling understanding what im really needing and could use some guidance... I'm tring to build a underwater fishing light that has 36 3watt green leds.  I'm going to only be powering them when the engine is off and the batteries aren't being charges... it will run off a standard 12volt marine battery... the led specs are ' green (510-530nm):DC Forward Voltage:3.4V~3.8V Forward Current: 700mA'.  what would be the best way to power these leds... im assuming that I need to power in series groups of 3. but with such a wide voltage of 3.4 to 3.8... do I just shoot for the middle? do I use 12v in my calculation or do u use like a 12.5 or 13 like it sometimes checks.... Can I get by powering it with just resistors or do I need a led driver? I have entered my data in some of the calculaters online and it says I need a 2.2 resister but gives warnings... and doesn't say what watt resistor... does it matter... first project ... confussed to say the least thanks

Topic by laltec 2 years ago  |  last reply 2 years ago

Simple fishing lures?

Back in the day my grandfather use to make all sorts of artificial lures for us.From a simple spoon like thingy over spinners all the way to massive 300g killers to catch cod in the sea.And we always got our fair share of fish with them.These days everything is fancy, full of glitter and sometimes even with bluetooth and flashing lights.Are there any websites that show how to make the traditional ones yourself?I know how to make my own flies and have enough ideas for the rest but there must simpler ways then what comes to my mind..We even used wooden sticks with some aluminium foil around it and a small piece of lead for added weight to catch trout and redfin...

Question by Downunder35m 21 hours ago

Custom Fish tank stand

I am creating a custom fish tank stand from 2x4s and sheet wood. I plan to paint it black but I ran into 2 problems when I decided I didn't want the hood that came with the tank. 1) The lighting.     I have a pretty good history with LEDs so creating the lighting will not be too hard, only real issue I run into is sealing the lamp. I plan to use an acrylic sheet with holes drilled for the white and blue LEDs. White for day and a row of blue for moonlight on a 3 way rocker. I just dont want water to penetrate the holes from the ports for the light to damage the components. 2) The filter.    This is where I am at a loss. I plan on making something similar to this: But I have no idea how to an external filter rather than one of the regular table top aquarium ones that would not look very pleasing on a nice stand. Any ideas questions comments or concerns please ask.

Topic by yours31f 7 years ago  |  last reply 7 years ago

how can i build a flourescent lamp that operates on 12 vdc?i want to build one like i saw on fishing lights .com

Anyone know how to go about getting the proper ballast to make it run on 12 volts dc?where i could get one?

Question by hvacmac 9 years ago  |  last reply 9 years ago

Do aquarium fish like cold or warm LED light best?

I am making an aquiarium (from an old tv, to be specific), and I wonder if the fish like warm or cold LED light best. The light will be their 'daylight'.

Question by Stanaboy 9 years ago  |  last reply 8 years ago

UV filtration in your fish tank or small fish pond

Year after year the topic "I have a fish tank" seems to go more out of control. What was once a hobby just to have some fish can now be a design feature both in your home and inside the tank. Realistic looking lasdscapes, optical illusions that make you think the tank is much bigger and the list goes on. But one thing that now always pops up is the must have thing of UV filtration. Or to be precise: UV-C sterilisation! Now, if we trust Wiki and our big water suppliers then UV-C will literally kill anything alive that comes into contact with. So of course it would be a good thing to have for your tank - or not? UV-C is very dangerous for your eyesight and quite harmful for your skin! Looking into a proper UV-C lamp without protection means you can go blind! Even good sunglasses might not have enough protection in the UV-C range, so only use them for additional protection but never without and glass between you and the lamp! Don't be a fool! Treat UV-C seriously! You would not look into the full sun with your sunglasses and would not expose your eyes or skin to a powerful laser, UV-C is to be treated the same way! Let's start by using some boring text to explain the concept a little bit. On a large scale special and quite powerful systems are used to treat our drinking or pool water. Here special UV-C lights with a wavelenghts of 260nm or below are used to shine through the water passing by. There are two key factors here. a) the wavelenght b) the water flow rate and the corresponding time the water is in contact with the UV light To ensure all bacteria, viruses, algae and other harmful organics are dead the water must circulate for long enough so even the last water molecule had a few seconds of exposure. All this only works good with "crystal clear" water for obvious reasons as otherwise the UV has to be even more powerful to pass through. Single cell organisms literally crack into pieces similar to being exposed to gamma rays, more complex cells like algae have their cell membranes damages and the DNA suffers as well causing reproduction loss and early death. Even some chemicals break down, most importantly here chlorine based substances. Differences within the UV-C range! If you bothered to check Wiki about the topic of UV-C you will already know that only certain wavelengths within this spectrum will actuall be powerful enough to do what we want it to do. And here is the first problem for us hobby users. Most cheaply advertised "sterlisation lamps" you find in places like Ebay are actually totally useless. Stating to be selling a UV-C light to sterilze your water in such a case is still not considered to be fraud though. Simply because it still does what it supposed to do, just very slow and with very little effect. Only the so called "short wave" UV-C range is powerful enough! To avoid loosing business during the times of the biggest hype in 20 years no seller will actuall state the available wavelengths. That means without this info anywhere you can be certain the advertised lamp is of little to no use. Even those advertised to be short wave UV-C might not be the real deal. However, if a decent manufacturer is behind the actual lamp used it is possible to check the datasheet for these performance figures - but again most cheap systems come with no-name lamps inside. Check the prices for a reputable UV-C light with the same lamp fitting, e.g. G23 and you will see it might cost more than your entire system. Ok, you have a poper short wave UV-C lamp or consider getting a canister filter with one in it.... Never, ever test your lamp without proper protection!!!!! UV-C will damage your eye within seconds! If you system or lamp does not provide a viewing port or shine through area then you have to place a piece of glass between you and the light! UV-C won't be able to penetrate normal window glass but will pass through quartz glass. Place the lamp in a box and cover with the glass. How make proper use of UV-C sterilisation... The replacement lights are quite expensive, so let's see how to get the most out of them. As said before exposure is the key factor so the flow rate of the UV system must match tank size and flow rate of your filter system. Canister filters with a build in lamp should be designed to match but I will tell you later what to look for ;) Most of us will prefer to have a in-line system if there is already a good canister filter at work, so I will focus on those and rop in solutions. If you compare in-line system you might notice that some quite small and low power units claim to allow for the same flow rates as for example 40W units. Some are fraud and just want to sell while others use simple physics to make the claim true. A good system will utilise an auger like "ramp" that forces the water to circulate around the tube many times - causing up to ten times longer exposure rates. Others create this sprial effect more like a vortex with some diverters and modified inlets. The later seems to be less efficient though with low power lamps. An in-line system should be on the outlet side of your canister filter so the best quality water will pass through it. A drop in solution should be used alone and without the existing normal filter pump you might have in there. Ok, got it, but how do I actually use it now? Despite common thinking a UV-C system should not run 24/7 like your normal filter. You really only need it to solve problems you should not have in a healthy tank! It is not a magical solution to make your underlaying problems go away ;) Let's start with the most common reason someone buys a UV-C system: An algae or bacterial outbreak causing greenish or milky water. If that developed slowly over a period of weeks then you would be better off to do a good clean of the tank and filter plus a decent water exchange. A few drops of meds will do the rest. And if you constantly get algae growing on your glass, ornaments and plants then your nutrient levels and water quality is not right anyway and needs a good check. But of course there is also the problem of light - too much for too long and unwanted gree appears everywhere. If in doubt reduce the light power, shade out natural light or reduce the on time for your lights. Having said that we now face the problem of a sudden outbreak after introducing new fish or plants. If you don't have a quarantaine tank chances are that sooner or later you get unwanted or even harmful guest into your tank. Here the UV-C will be beneficial, which is why a canister filter with build in light should have a seperate switch or power supply for the light. After an outbreak or while introducing new life into your tank the UV-C will remove a lot of the things that we don't want to bring along. For new life I leave the light on non stop for a week, that is for a small 4ft tank with 200 liters. To control an outbreak it depends on how bad it is. I assume here you can still see the back of your tank  but that the water either appears greenish or slightly milky from bacteria. As a personal thing I prefer to to remove and clean my filter material before treating a severe outbreak. Once done I fill the filter with a mix of activate carbon material and fine filter wool. Reason for this quite simple: The outbreak causing stuff is already in your filter material and will be a constant source of re-infection. And since breaking down all this bad stuff causes even more bad stuff to be produced as biological waste we want to discard it properly once done. Using just fine filter wool and activated carbon also reduces the flow rate bit if compacted ;) Now we can turn on the light and pump and forget about it for a while. It is not recommended to run UV lights on a timer as you want them on all time to prevent short lifespan and have ongoing treatment of the water. Good idea to take a picture at the same of a day from now on to compare and check results. After 3 days the water should definately be clearer, if not then either your filter material is packed too losse or the lamp is no good. Once the water appears to be clear do a readin test - take a newspaper behind the tank and check if the text is clear - blurry means the water is still not clean. You will reach a point where the water quality will not further improve as much as in the days before. This is the time where you discard or clean out to dry your filter material and put the original stuff back in. The activated carbon should be discarded of course. You cleaned filter material will now need a certain time to grow enough good bacteria to go back to the old performance. During this time you should still leave the light on. In most cases with enough fish and plants in the tank a week should be sufficient. After that you can leave the light off and keep the tank fit and healthy. Special case: Algae everywhere! Especially after getting a new plant you can end up with quite pesty algae growth. Be it these long ghost hair types or in a bad case the black stuff growing on plants, ornaments and the glass. I have even seen tanks with algae covering the entire bottom of the tank causing the gravel to look like carpet. Here I can only advise to set up a quarantaine tank for your fish. Then remove all infested material for manual removal and cleaning. Infested plants should be cut clean and what can be boiled should be boiled in water for a few minutes. Now start scrubbing in the tank with ongoing water replacements. I prefer to let everything settle over night without any bubbler or pump running. This way I can suck up a lot of sediment the next day. If you can remove all plants and fish you can now use hydrogen peroxide and add it to your tank water. But this is only feasable for small desktop tanks. Before using the UV as above to cure an outbreak you should consider all water one last time. Allow at least 2 weeks with ongoing water checks before adding plants back in and another week before placing your fish back in the tank. The week before adding fish should be used to monitor the plats for any signs of algae you might have missed - if you find any remove it! A week after the fish is back in you can turn off the UV light. Underwater UV-C light!? In most online stores you will find quite cheap UV lights to be advertised as underwater or in tank use. Although it might sound tempting you should be well aware of the dangers of using them. The glass of your tank will block the harmfull UV rays but the water surface won't, so either don't ever look at it or use proper sunglasses with real UV protection. Apart from the dangers to you these lamps are not just cheap in price but also cheaply produced. That means there is no way of telling how much or how little UV-C is produced. If they are good then you still need to know in what type of tank setup you can use them. As plants can tolerate a bit of UV a placement as far away from the nearest plant should do, especially if you can place a bubble wall betwenn light and plants. The fish is another thing as some seem to be unaware of the danger in their tank. This means they can get too close to the light but I have not found any articles explaining how harmful UV-C is to fish or their eyesight. I guess once your fish starts to bounce into everything you know... ;) My advise is to stay away from the idea of hanging a UV-C lamp in your tank, the risk for you and your tank is just not justified. If you need to go cheap then get two or thre of these lamps so you have spares. But use them externally ;) Meaning: Take a UV proof plastic container of small size and place the light in there. To be really safe tape the lid and all holes for the hoses with black tape. Place the container above the water level of your tank and if you only have an internal filter pump push a suitable sized hose into the outlet to feed into you canister. Check how high you pump can make it and place the outlet or overflow slightly below this level. When to change the light? If you made it all the way down here then you might already had the benefit of using light to "cure" your tank. Now we are faced with the high replacement cost for the lamp itself. Ususally only flouroscent tubes are used. It is always good to check after purchase what type of lamp and manufacturer (if there is one) was used. In some cases the system itself is like an inkjet printer: Just a cheap way to make you buy the consumables. Let's say you new in-line filter was priced at $100 to have a nice round number, some are cheaper some much more expensive. The lamp used might be an exotic type and not even be available easy, so before you buy your system check where you can get spares, not just the lamp of course. A replacement lamp can be as ceap as 20 bucks or cost even more than your system if you need to order it elsewhere. The quartz glass sleeve can break too meaning you then need a lamp and cylinder. Going with a reputable brand and paying a bit more certainly helps to get spares in the future. Let's just assume you either got your system in bulk due to the price of replacement lamps or can get them at a reasonable price. UV-C lamps are not like your normal flouroscent light tubes you have around or maybe even on top of your tank. Consider them like the tubes used in the now unhealthy tanning beds. After a certain amount of time they no longer produce enough of the short wave UV light that we need. As you can't see it and most of us won't have the means to specifically measure it we have to trust manufacturers recommendations. For most good brands the numbers are the same: 8000 hours max. Considering the costs it does make sense to keep written track of the usage. Not too hard since we won't use them like normal lights but instead have them on for a week or more without turning them off. I recommend to have a replacement at hand long before you need it. A lamp can fail premature, crack or simply burn out. The 8000 hours are based on 24 hour usage, so one day on, one day off. This could mean for us the lifetime can be slightly longer but I would not go over 9000 hours. As a rule of thumb: If the water does not show good signs of getting clear on day thre the lamp is due.

Topic by Downunder35m 1 year ago  |  last reply 1 year ago

How to make rechargeable underwater fishing light (LED - Li-ion battery)?

Hi, I want to make an underwater fishing light with LED chips and Li-ion batteries (18650) to make it rechargeable and portable . Like this one I do not know what should I use , which led chip and which driver ? What I need to make same light in this video? sorry, my English is bad but i'm sure you will understand me ;)

Question by Cr77777 2 years ago  |  last reply 2 years ago

New Light Fitting Smells Of Fish When Hot

Hi, I have just fitted a new light fitting. After it gets hot (60 Watt filament bulb) The room smells of fish. I believe that the smell is coming from the hot plastic, probably from the plastic that holds the shade in place. I don't want to reduce the wattage, The label on the connector says it is rated for 100 Watts. How can I get rid of the fish smell? Thanks

Topic by anon_private 3 years ago  |  last reply 3 years ago

How to make an underwater snook light?

Hey guys, I was wondering if anybody knows how to make an underwater snook light & I think it'd be cool to make an inscrutable on it. THANKS (:

Topic by co'loughlin 7 years ago

UV De-chlorination for a fish tank? Answered

I did some research and saw other instructables that showed how to possibly create a UV sterilization. I read that UV light in the 230 and 360 range can break down Chlorine and Chloramines. I was curious if someone could share how to create a UV de-chlorinating chamber (2-5 gallons) with the use of UV LEDs. For safety purposes I was thinking of a plastic 5 gal bin, where placing the top on the bin completes the circuit to expose the water to the UV light in a safe manner. how many would be needed? how long would water need to be exposed?

Question by jc.021286 9 years ago  |  last reply 9 years ago

So Bizarre, You Had to Know About This

My Dad sent me this. I suppose it's Halloween appropriate? Weird. Have you ever heard of "Bat Fishing?" Kids out in the countryside come up with creative things to occupy their time. This fellow called in to a radio show ... you have a very light monofilament line on your fishing pole. Tie on a very small hook like you would use for small trout, put a small weight just above the hook, and bait the hook with a little bread. You then toss the hook up over a wire or tree branch in an area where bats are flying around at dusk. Kind of tug or wiggle the line so the bats strike at it. Be patient ... eventually one of them will grab the hook. Then you can fly your bat around in the sky ... kind of like a kite. When the bat becomes exhausted, reel it in, remove the hook, and let it go.

Topic by royalestel 11 years ago  |  last reply 7 years ago

Bubbling LED Hanging Industrial lights???

There is a project I have been vigilantly searching for on instructables and google. I remember seeing it on here a couple of years ago and now cannot find it anywhere.. The project consisted of Industrial cage jar lights, LEDs, Vegetable oil, and a fish tank pump and some other supplies.. The LED lights would be submerged in the jars with vegetable oil and   the fish tank pump supplies air into the industrial lights and the oil bubbles..  I would love to find this project. I have been itching to find it for the past year or so. If anyone knows where to find this project, Please pm me.. I would appreciate it immensely.. Or if anyone knows where to find the Industrial cage lights i would appreciate any help in this matter.. Thanks..

Topic by spinpoidaily411 6 years ago  |  last reply 6 years ago

How to create underwater fish tank LEDs? Answered

Ever seen those glass pebbles that are somewhat opaque? I would like to place these at the bottom of a 15 gallon fish tank and have it lit up from underneath, probably through the use of LEDs. I am looking for any ideas of creating such a thing that would be safe to place under water, that won't fry the goldfish. Food for thought, could you also use Black light LEDs or would that possibly kill the good bacteria in the tank. There could be a possibility to place it under the fish tank (outside the water), though I would have to remove a structural panel. Would creating an LED mat for underneath the fishtank be easier? Specifications: -Powered from a wall socket -light up and through 1.5" - 2" of the glass pebbles for 1' x 2' aquarium bottom.

Question by jc.021286 9 years ago  |  last reply 8 years ago

transistors with leds?

New to led lights thought about using on fish tank the one post says to use resistors why is this necessary when using a transformer from alarm clock?

Question by budman95 7 years ago  |  last reply 7 years ago

Foldable floating house for two

Hello everyone. I have plans for foldable and floating house fit for 2 people with WC, 2 beds, 2 fishing chairs with tables and maybe a bbq :) I dont have the money to build it but its a dream of mine. I'll be happy if someone is interested and actually build this thing. when folded its 250sm / 150sm / 50 sm h. For the materials i can use steinless steal squares for base, old inner tires for support, light aluminium rods for the roof, some watter resistent fabric for the walls and some custom made beds and tables. I'm working on pictures with some lame architecture program and i'm posting them as soon as i can. I also have schematics of the joints and locking systems ... well if anyone is interested let me know

Topic by WishKeeper 4 years ago  |  last reply 4 years ago

How can I make an aquarium island that's solid and light? Answered

I want to make a large island for my turtles and I want to be able to make it look how ever I want. I need to know what to use for long lasting use in water.

Question by jakemaur 8 years ago  |  last reply 8 years ago

how can i switch the standard light for an LED in a 'BiOrb' fish tank?

OK, i'll start by saying i know next to nothing about electronics, but i reckon this should in theory be a fairly simple hack. I Have a Baby BiOrb fish tank with 2 goldfish in. the tank is great, if a little small, and the lighting unit on the top of the tank is quite bright. i guess they use the same light unit in the small tanks as the large ones, so although its probably fine in the large tanks it's quite bright in a small one. i get the impression the fish don't like it too much as they spazz out a bit when its switched on. what i want to do is to replace the standard bulb with a less bright LED so that the lighting is more ambient and more comfortable for the fish. i've seen the moonlight ideas on here using blue LEDs which look really nice, however these tutorials are for building a setup from scratch and not for replacing components in an existing setup. the question is, what would i have to do to replace the bulb with an LED? the existing light is powered from a 12v plug which also powers the air pump; theres a central power box with two cables coming off, one for the light and one for the pump, so i guess its a parallel connection meaning theres a full 12v to play with for the light. would i need to add extra resistors or something like that, or is there such a thing as a 12v LED? what about several LEDs? (EDIT) - official literature says that the bulbs are 5w halogen bulbs. another option would be to add LEDs as a secondary light, maybe with a secondary switch for separate control to the main light. would this be easier at all? any knowledgable advice would be a great help as i've no idea where to start.

Question by 10 years ago  |  last reply 10 years ago

Got a LED light bar, what to do...?

Http:// So I got a a couple of these that I found at work...  Planning to use them for my fish tank.  Kinda worried that they will be TOO bright. Can I buy a dimmer to wire them up to?  I know very little about all this, I have a coworker that knows far more. But I was hoping to pick your BRa--IIA-NS!!!

Topic by benjaminleebates 4 years ago

wont to mod some solar garden lights to make a desk light

I have 3 solar garden lights i got at a yard sell i want to connect them all together add a bigger battery holder and an on/off switch so that i can use them as a desk / fishing light . were can i go to find out how to do this so that i can see and be able to do this ?

Question by jsilvers1 7 years ago  |  last reply 7 years ago

How to use an old freezer/fridge as a garden box or fish pond? How would you establish drainage?

Not that I have space for such here at home, but thinking along green lines and how to recycle old appliances. I know my grandpa had an old freezer he used that was converted to a mini green house wiht some grow lights, but I was thinking more along the lines of container gardening or fish pond.

Question by tbeatty 10 years ago  |  last reply 9 years ago

Would it be possible to make a fish tank from a plastic storage container?

About a year ago I bought a 10 gallon fish tank for about 10 bucks and 3 small comet feeder goldfish. I had a spare filter and some gravel then tossed in some hides. It look great but now that the fish are about 3-4 inches each I decided they would like a slightly larger tank. I don't want to spend 50 plus dollars for another tank. I was talking to another fish owner the other day and mentioned a large   plastic storage container, He said he had used one and built a wooden box around it to support it. My idea is to buy a 30 gallon storage container or cheap plastic pond and build a wooden frame around it then spray great stuff in the gaps for support. How does this sound? I have a desk with a couple cricket keepers on and a leopard gecko. I planned to put wheels on it so I can slide it in and out of the space under the desk. I have a light that I can mount to the bottom of the desk. Does this sound like it would be okay or a disaster waiting to happen.  Thanks, Clemsonguy1125

Question by imthatguy1125 8 years ago  |  last reply 8 years ago

How do I add on fiber optic bundles to the end of a large single Fiber optic strand/LED?

I need to figure out how to add on a lot of multi-strand fiber optics to the end of large single strand or single LED. I would like to create a lighted and animated cuttle fish sculpture and I want to know how I would be able to get the most amount of small single dots of light from a single LED. The LEDs will be individually animated in the belly of the beast and light patterns will appear on the surface...

Question by pastaffo 8 years ago  |  last reply 8 years ago

Aquarium LED driver?

Im looking for a schematic that controls 1w leds for my fish tank light? i need the control to be dimmable and hopefully programmable so i can incorporate a sun motion effect and then a moon motion effect! i say hopefully because this will need to be an add on later in the project as id like to have the initial lighting up as quickly as possible! As far as i know so far, the circuit is a basic constant current circuit but  i need a "buck" driver or PWM to enable the dimming by varying the current! so my questions are :- 1. Does anyone know of a simple, reliable and cheap circuit to use? 2. Because of the amount of LED's ill be using im not sure i like the idea of having all the lights in a series configuration because if one fails, thats a lot of lights to test! 3. If i have to use a computer to run the lights id like to be able to make it compatable with the raspberry pi therefore id need a program and mounting software for the pi, so anyone know of one? 4.Right to the power, i dont care what voltage it runs on but id like to only utalize one plug socket if possible, i do have a few power supplies laying about for various things like old laptops and old pc's, so what do i need to power it! i cant think of any more at the moment but you guys know what im trying to achieve so im sure you know what questions i have missed! as i said though, id like to start simple and work up to sun motion control and timers! Thanks in advance for any help anyone is offering! 

Question by Xmortx114145 6 years ago  |  last reply 6 years ago

Electric Eel Powers Christmas Tree

Y'know, I've always wondered about this. An aquarium filled with exotic fish here is using an electric eel to power lights on a Christmas tree.Each time the electric eel at the Aqua Toto Gifu aquarium touches a copper wire in its tank, it sends power that lights up globes decking a Christmas tree.From the Mainichi Daily News. Can't get the link to work to verify, so possibly a hoax.

Topic by fungus amungus 11 years ago  |  last reply 11 years ago

Artificial Gills

I don't kow about you, but I swim a lot and, as with most swimmers, would LOVE to be able to breath underwater without bulky air tanks or even a light rebreather. Fish take oxygen from the water so I don't see why can't I build something that does the same. Is there anybody who has any ideas or suggestions as to where I should look?

Topic by NumbersAndLetters 9 years ago  |  last reply 9 years ago

How to put a hole in a 3" glass float?

I have a bunch of 3" glass fishing net floats and I want to put a 1/2" hole in them to put LEDs in them to make them lights.  Any ideas on how to do it without destroying the float would be appreciated? I have attached a picture of what they look like. Thanks for any help

Question by rhargesheimer 6 years ago  |  last reply 6 years ago

LED glow tubing question?

I am thinking of putting some glow tubing on the inside of my 14 foot jon boat, mainly for night fishing. It would also make it look really cool at night. The concept is simple, some of you may know - clear tubing from the hardware store, filled with water, with an LED in either end. This should light it up even if it is curved, right? I want to put long tubes running the length of the boat, on the inside groove of the side runners. That would mean 13+ feet of slightly curved glow tubing. I may have to end up splitting the glow sticks into smaller sections, but would like to see if I can do long single tubes. I'm concerned that the light will fade out in the middle considerably. I'm OK with it fading a little, but I don't want it to be noticeably bad. Will a narrower light beam help solve the problem? (found some 12 degree online) I will go for the narrowest beam and highest candlepower possible.  Am I on the right track? Got any advice?  Thanks a bunch

Question by catman529 7 years ago  |  last reply 7 years ago

I would like to learn how to .......

Hey.... I have always wanted to know how to do some small soldering jobs. Make a solar powered torch. 12 volt lighting for my fish tank. A digital clock.... The list goes on and on. Have wanted to do all of this kinda stuff is the early 80's...  Who and where do I go to get some help?? I have bought 20 x Light Chip  Light Color Warm White / Pure White Color Temperature (K) 3000-3500  /  6000-6500 Wattage (W) 10 Voltage (V) DC 9-12 Forward Current 1050 mA Luminous Flux (lm) 900 Dimension(mm) 20mm x 14mm Package Included 1 X Light Chip I would like some help with the guage of wire, 240 - 12 volt conversion and stuff like that....  I have seen some wonderful peoples inventions and creations on here and would like to start with my led chips.. Thank you  

Question by SelenaT 3 years ago  |  last reply 3 years ago

Hi Guy's Im looking to build a Led controller that can operate a12v 600 leds in 4 channels 200wh 100red 100blue?

Each channel has two on times and two off times in a 24hr period.Each event ie; morning, can have 4 ramp times ie:red led channel comes on and rises red channel starting0% led power up to say 85% over a one hour period meanwhile the white channel comes on say 20 mins in to event and rises led up 0% to 100% over the hour and red led will fade out.This giving the effect of sunrise. There will be different light for different times of day.For the night the blue channel will fade in simulating the moon.There can be up to 256 stages of color.So a need a system controller that can control Both the time that a channel is turned on/off and the level of power that is put to that particular led channel. This project is for my aquarium.The idea is to be able to simulate daylight for the the fish that doesn't have a florescent light flashing on make fish jump. Sorry for the long explanation.I,m a electronic dunce sorry guys.Any help or advise would be very much appreciated Regards Jon

Question by 10 years ago  |  last reply 9 years ago

I have an idea. Can someone help me with it? Answered

I thought about this cool idea. It's an aquarium with a large base at the bottom. In the bottom there is a propane tank that lets propane out into the water. Then I light the top of the water on fire, which is actually the propane coming out of the bottom of the aquarium. Note  that there aren't any fish in the water. Let me know if it can work. Also, if there is more info needed please let me know.

Question by Dr. Pepper 8 years ago  |  last reply 8 years ago

motor from small Halloween prop (toy)....any ideas? Answered

I have a small prop that is a bat that hangs from fishing line and flies in a circle. The wings got damaged, so I took it apart to look at the little motor. The bottom half of the bat body (see photos) has the battery case with the wires and motor on the other side, it also has led lights. The motor works fine when I turn it on and the lights work too. Can I use this for anything? Any ideas would be great. The motor is small and I dont know what kind it is, but the gears turn very fast. I thought it would be too small for anything, but the bat is actually quite heavy, so I should be able to use it for something Thx

Question by projectworkout 8 years ago  |  last reply 8 years ago

Need advice...

I have a pvc bar made from 1 1/2" pvc schedule 40. the longest vertical pieces are 18" or less...I have a fishtank on it a 1/4 full and having 2nd thoughts.. Any guesses,estimates,educated insight on whether this will hold 0hh 450-475lbs ie 50gallon tank minimal gravel and deco plus fish lights etc...I'm still elaning towards I think so but i have a lot of electronics in the same room right now i dont need soaked.... And obviously I'm not holding anyone accountable for their opinion...

Question by needadvice 7 months ago

how to make 12v battery from 18650 li ion batteries?

Hi, I have this led strip Working Voltage is 12VDC. Working Current/meter: 0.8-1A the strip is 5 meter. 18650 x4 = 14.4 v 18650 x3 =10.8 v How can I make it work with 18650 li ion batteries? And how many battery must I use and how can I do that? I think that I need driver or booster to get a stabil 12v! work-time I need 5 h

Question by Cr77777 2 years ago  |  last reply 2 years ago

Remote switch for battery powered LED

Hi. Firstly, I'm a software man, never done an electronics project but I own a multimeter and can use a soldering iron.  So here's the problem: for my son's wedding in May (that's him in the pic), he's rented an ancient barn with a beautiful timber roof going up to 5 metres. They want to decorate it with coloured paper lanterns, hanging on invisible fishing line. I suggested lighting each lantern with cheap battery operated 10 LED strings. Problem is how to turn them on/off from ground level, say 4 metres away. So I'm thinking infrared triggered switches. There's going to be about 30 lanterns so the receivers must be cheap on components. Here's a possible example of the LED's   Voltage can be 3 or 4.5v DC depending if 2 or 3 battery model is chosen. I don't know the current of the LED strings, I'm thinking I'll need to insert the receiver switch inbetween the battery pack and the LED load. Hopefully the receiver won't drain the batteries too much in "standby" as we might need to rig the lanterns 4-5 days before the wedding and it's not practical to get up to the lights again. So, long explanation... I've seen a couple of projects on this site which look nearly right but my knowledge isn't enough to make adjustments. Can anyone give me a solution from which I can build a prototype? I'm hoping I can use an old TV remote as the transmitter. Thanks in advance for your help

Topic by juskat 6 years ago  |  last reply 6 years ago

How can I float a small ring magnet? Answered

I am creating a fluid level indicator for my automated drink mixer and need either an alternate solution or an item that can float a small ring magnet. Currently, my idea is to sink a reed switch into a straw, with a ring magnet around the straw.  Once the magnet floats down to the reed switch, it lights up the indicator that the alcohol is (almost) gone. Unfortunately, I cannot find a durable non-toxic way to make the magnet float.  I've done several searches and the closest matches I've found are fishing tackle, which I'm not sure would work all that well.  I've found manufactured devices, but $30 per bottle is a bit much to spend.  I'd like to keep it to under $5 per bottle.

Question by kidmosey 7 years ago  |  last reply 7 years ago

Battery options for a reverse para-scope.

Hey everyone!so I'm building a para-scope for the dock at our cottage, except it will be used to peer down into the water and watch the fish. Just need a battery solution other then a 12V sealed lead acid battery that I already have. (hopefully light weight)1X waterproof camera tested @12 V (maybe 9v? test soon but does not work at 5v)1x lcd screen tested @ 5-12Vplus some pvc piping and other bits and bobs.....I have some spare lipos that I can connect in series but a bms would require 12.6v (Less voltage drop?) Ideas?BMS link ==> battery will not last long enoughAny other ideas that will not cost an arm and a leg?

Question by Wired_Mist 1 year ago  |  last reply 1 year ago

There's a shower coming.

From my inbox:The annual Perseid meteor shower peaks on Tuesday, August 12th. The best time to look is during the dark hours before dawn on Tuesday morning when forecasters expect 50 to 100 meteors per hour. Get away from city lights if you can; plan a camping trip! The darker the sky, the more meteors you will see. The source of the Perseids is Comet Swift-Tuttle, which has littered the August portion of Earth's orbit with space dust. The dusty zone is broad and Earth is already in its outskirts. As a result, even before the peak on August 12th, you may see some "early Perseids" streaking across the night sky. Photos of these early arrivals will be featured in the days ahead on as part of our full coverage of the Perseid meteor shower.Being on holiday, I will be spending most of the shower either under city lights or in the wettest (and hence cloudiest) part of Britain, and unable to lay out large tarpaulins to catch rainwater.So, I won't be able to go fishing, or get time out to watch them. I wonder - will you?EDIT: I have, as predicted seen nothing. Rain, rain, rain, rain, rain, rain ...

Topic by Kiteman 10 years ago  |  last reply 10 years ago

Led fading aquarium? Answered

Hello, I have a fish tank, and it has a TL light above it. I made blue Led's above the fishtank. My idea was: - You get like from 8 AM. - 8 PM. the TL ligth (or some led's i have to make) - From 8PM-10PM the blue Led's - And then it all shuts off. - And then the cycle goes aroud. But the thing is, the TL is 220V and the leds are powered by a 8V AC powersupply, I made a diode bridge, so it all works, But my TL ligth will just shut off, becose it has a timer on it, And i have to turn on/off the blue leds myself. So, does anyone have an idea how to do this? maby some extra white led's so i can power it from 1 cicuit? Greetings. Ingmar (Im from Holland, don't mind my shitty english)

Question by ingkiller 7 years ago  |  last reply 7 years ago

Minimalist survival kit help

I'm looking at a new prospective for a survival kit. I have an I.N.C.H. bag that i use camping. While I can pack it down to almost nothing, I dont use many of the bigger items. I was looking for ways to essentially minimize my bag. While I'm experience with the great outdoors, the minimalist aproach is a relitivly new concept to me. I want to base the kit on the ten essentials. I live in a harsh enviroment so I'd likely not be changing my shelter much. The shelter is already pretty basic.  This is my must-have gear: Map, Compass, Sunglasses, Extra clothing (a skivvy roll and what I'm wearing plus my hoody and ponchos), Illumination (Preferably no batteries), First-aid supplies, Firestarter, Matches, Knife and Extra food. My current sleep system is as follows: Medium Weather sleeping bag with compression sac, Compact collapsible cot, Goretex bivvy sac, Sleeping role and Grommeted space blanket. I'm more worried about weight than size. I will likely switch the cot for a hammock because it's pretty sizey and the metal rods make half the weight of the system. For food I was thinking keep my hobo stove and boyscout mess kit but im considering adding a hobo fishing rig. My current fishing kit is a multi function compact pole with a fly reel and spin cast reel. While very light weight it takes up some space. About 1.5'x8"x4" roughly. any ideas on additions or subtractions for the kit? I'm mostly trying to reduce weight. I'm strong but lugging around a ruck sack takes more than a simple backpack with this and that.  Any ideas are apreciated. I don't need a whole lot to live comfortably in the woods. The picture is of my I.N.C.H. bag pack in to my freighter frame. The black box is the fishing kit, the blue sac is the cot. Inside the pack is the sleeping bag bulging out. It's Probably my biggest item and in this pic is not in its compression sac as the sac was 'misplaced' while moving. I guess I'm asking for advise on downsizing the I.N.C.H. bag...

Topic by Skwurlito 4 years ago  |  last reply 4 years ago

please I need help with a PROPER wiring diagram for my project

Hello everyone,  its great to see a site like this exists, I am still picking my jaw up off the floor with some of what i would consider genius minds making some pretty cool stuff. well let me give you guys and gals a little info about my project, I am making a 250 watt aquarium light for my fish tank after walking into the fish store and getting price shock from the ones that had in stock.  I will be using several wavelengths rated at 350ma per 10 watt LED bead and I have 12 forward voltage per LED bead. My question is I want to use an old computer supply to power the light as I would like to stay within budget as best as possible and the chance to tinker with other electronics would be awesome for someone like me.  I am familiar with the proper way to wire up LEDs using resistors and the correct order to connect them. My only question is I want to avoid a series of LED only because I hear if one goes out the series goes out, but then I heard about a by-pass method to battle that. The other reason why I want to use a series and parallel is because I don't want to drill a million holes in my heat sink, rather I would want them all to meet at one end and join them together and insert into the female plug that the computer supply 12v line will plug into (after a little modding of course to the computer supply to carry this plug) also if I am going with 12FV led beads would using 25 of them in series and parallel be less efficient than if I got 32-36 forward V led beads??? or does that potential ultimately lay within the wiring of the entire aquarium light? I don't want to loose any potential of these LED which i realize is quite easy to do if everything isn't exactly right as far as resistor choices go etc. I would like to add a temp fail safe shut off in the wiring of the panel but am unsure where to exactly place that. If someone wouldn't mind taking the time to show the the proper wire diagram and be able to walk me through the wire diagram maybe via skype, I would truly appreciate that very much as its a huge passion of mine to learn but I am not in the position to be able to go to school because I have a disease that wont allow me to really leave the house. but I am wondering if there is anyone out there that can help me with my little hobby and project as I would like to use the knowledge learned in future projects and tinker around with some more electronics around the house. it would also be something nice to do when i'm home bored all the time. have a great day I look forward to meeting my fellow instructables. I am here to learn!!

Topic by LEDgrasshopper 5 years ago  |  last reply 5 years ago


We love seeing our authors transform their ideas into a reality, and we want to help in whatever ways we can. Below are some of the campaigns our authors are working to get funded. We'll do our best to keep this list current, so please check out their projects, and help fellow makers in our community find success!  Current Campaigns i-mimic the animation made easy, Device capturing human motion directly in 3D animation software in real-time & without plugins. by Instructabler nawres102 Open Source DIY Automatic Tail Light, A fun and easy to assemble light sensor kit.  By Instructabler Solarcycle Tiq probe, it defines a new category of electronic debug & test tools for makers & professionals - filling the gap between DMMs & 'scopes. By Instructabler markhen57 If you have a project you're trying to get funded, let us know!  Completed Campaigns  Doughnut Safe, Turn your spare tire into a strong box.  By Instructabler Mrballeng The fumeFan, The fume Fan is a soldering fume extractor, work lamp, helping hands tool and a project organiser for hobbyists, makers and creators.  By Instructabler hertzgamma SOLARPAD Open Source 5 Watt Smart Phone Solar USB Charger, Strap this water-resistant solar panel and battery to backpacks or mount it to tripods for camping, hiking, and cycling.  By Instructabler Solarcycle Fish Bone, A no knots cord tightener specifically designed for paracord by author Mrballeng - Funded by almost 9000% of goal! Would you Woodwork, a funny and informational woodworking webseries by author Few Bits - Funded by 100% of goal!  Zero to Maker, a re-skilling guide for new makers by David Lang - Funded by almost 2000% of goal! Arabic Alphabet Fun Flashcards, cute and kid friendly learning tool by author acraftyarab - Funded and met goal! PIXEL: Interactive LED Art, an interactive LED-based display for retro pixel art by author alinke - Funded by over 600% of goal! Blinky Fish, a tiny fish-shaped board that fits on an Arduino to help teach, by author marc.cryan - Funded by almost 600% of goal! Chipper, the ATtiny Programming and Prototyping Shield, by author Hammock Boy - funded by over 1000% of goal! Piranha, a follow-up knotless gear tie for paracord, by author Mrballeng - funded by over 1400% of goal! The Question Block Lamp, a Mario-inspired, interactive lamp for your inner geek, gamer and child, by author bduxbury - funded by almost 150% of goal! Out of Time - A patina weathered I-Beam with moving gears by Instructabler hack818 Maker Kase - Universal Maker cabinet. Perfect for 3D printers, model makers, small CNC machines and open frame Bitcoin Miners by Instructabler bmc.loughlin Have you started your own Kickstarter or Indiegogo to help fund your project? Let us know! Please leave the link in the comments, along with a brief description. We'll add your project to our up-to-date campaign list above, and promote it across our channels. If you have any questions, or want to add any additional info, please email me at Thanks!

Topic by kazmataz 5 years ago  |  last reply 5 months ago

Black Holes aren’t Black they are Gray?

Ok so 40 years ago Stephen Hawking came up with the theory of Black holes and today they are not black but gray. It turns out that the black holes Hawking wrote about in 1974 — those places in the space-time continuum that can devour galaxies and even trap light forever — may not exist in the way that he proposed decades ago. So I read the paper. I found it a bit dry compared to A Brief History of Time but that is the life of a paper. I have always believed a theory is just that and no more, prone to evolve or be disproved with the advent of new theories and facts. After all it is just a theory and not a fact even though many of these theories enable us to the most amazing things. Which reminds me of a joke. A Canadian fisherman was down south fly fishing with an American fisherman that happen to be a marine biologist. Soon the Canadian fisherman caught a one pound brook trout and stated it was just a baby and threw it back. The American marine biologist not objecting to catch and release, objected to the Canadian calling a one pound Salvelinus fontinalis a baby. He explained to the Canadian fisherman that the Salvelinus fontinalis is genetically unable to grow larger than one pound. The Canadian fisherman retorted I catch five pounders in the Boyne River all the time and that was just a baby where he comes from. The American marine biologist objected to the Canadian calling a one pound Salvelinus fontinalis a baby. Again he explained to the Canadian fisherman that the Salvelinus fontinalis is genetically unable to grow larger than one pound. Not wanting to argue the Canadian fisherman let the subject lye and spent the rest of the day fishing throwing their catch back. At the end of the day they exchanged addresses and parted friends. A month later the American marine biologist received a parcel in the mail in it was a frozen five pound brook trout, distraught he began to write the Canadian fisherman a letter. “Dear Mr. Fuddel Duddel Thank you for the five pound specimen of the Salvelinus fontinalis, and thank you very much for ruining perfectly good science with a fact. Sincerely John Doe”

Topic by Josehf Murchison 5 years ago

How to design and build a switchable 3 colour LED into a 4x4 (16 cube) shelving system? Answered

Hi all, I've been wrecking my head on this project that I want to make, and I just can't seem to nail it, so hope some of you guys and gurus with much more electronic experience might be able to give me a nudge (or tell me that this is going to be borderline mental). Background: I repair laptops and wish to make a lighting system to give a visual indication of my current work flow. If a new laptop is placed in one of the 16 shelving cubes, I want to hit a switch on that cube to indicate the colour (RED), to say its a new arrival and hasn't been worked on yet. After getting it on the bench for assessment, it will be returned to the cube in one of two forms, either A) Its unfinished and awaiting parts/customer communication (hit switch and show BLUE LED) or B) Its finished and ready for collection (hit switch and show GREEN LED). The only thing close to an off the shelf (no pun intended) product that I've been able to find is 31cm wide Aquarium overhead LED for fish tanks. These come in at £11 GBP each, and I need 16 of the guys... so £176 to begin with as well as the issue with each unit having its own 12v Power Supply that needs plugged in! (Ouch). So, can someone here possibly recommend a solution to this that A) Isn't going to cost me my first born child and B) Not use up every plug in the house! :D I will admit, I'm actually not entirely averse to buying the 31cm bars as above, but would definitely need to be able to address the power requirements safely. I'm really looking forward to your ideas or certainly if you know of any other off the shelf (still no pun intended) product that I could modify to fulfil my needs.

Question by sheasmith 2 years ago  |  last reply 2 years ago

Need help with diy LED project

Hello, I am wanting to light my fishtank by using LED's... it is a really big fish tank so this must be a custom job, and i am interested in this field of work. I understand the basics of DC current, and i can solder... but i am still a n00b! I have 100 LEDs just like these i was wanting to use like, 50 or more if you guys think i need it. I understand the need for resistors and my goal, if possible, is to use as few resistors as possible! since they are not readily available to me. My plan is to use two long separate strands with, say 25 LEDS on each. Is this possible if i can find a 12v+? is this possible?Do i need to use series or parallel wiring? ( i want to use fewer resisters)Can i make two separate strands using one power supplyWhich values do i need to use to find resistors? you guys so much, I have been wanting to work on this project for a long time, but these questions have always kept me.

Topic by punx777 11 years ago  |  last reply 11 years ago

Yeah, about my miter saw...

I know lots of people want me to post my miter saw, and I said I would. But I decided that I'm not going to post. It uses a lot of pieces, and only 3-4 people would be able to build it anyway. Sorry if your disappointed, but I did take pictures of it while I was taking it apart, so you'll be able to see the insides. I also included a parts list below if you're curious about how many pieces it used. :-)    Rods: 996 green-249 white-123 blue-347 yellow-96 red-34 gray-9 rigid tan-1 rigid black-1 flexi-rod (yellow rod length)-12 flexi-rod (gray rod length)-68 orange-56 Connectors: 804 dark gray-15 light gray-34 red-232 green-33 yellow-171 orange-59 white-74 blue-81 purple-179 Panels: 29 triangle mini-12 triangle small-16 square small-1 Other: 205 chain link-33 blue spacer-31 silver spacer-66 tan clip-18 metallic blue clip-15 black Y clip-5 red gear-8 small blue gear-2 orange splicer-12 battery-powered motor-1 tire-6 black snap cap-3 rubber band-3 fishing line-2 strands Total: 2,034 Here's some pictures of the saw's deconstruction and pieces.

Topic by Shadowman39 9 years ago  |  last reply 7 years ago

Fun and experiments with water - what is your favourite?

We all know that a fight with water bombs or building a water rocket with your kids can be tons of fun. But what about the things that other people might not even know about? A water drop generator for example can produce thausands of volts in electricity! Water can travel up through capilary actions! Water is even used to break massive rocks in cold climates clean and without the need for explosives! Even the simple task of freezing water for ice cubes is now a science of its own for most serious bartenders... One of my old time favourites involving the often weird proerties involved a very small BW TV and a fishtank. After a lot of cleaning and rinsing I placed a TV into a spare fish tank filled with destilled water. Some other tiny tanks were filled for comparison with tap water and other household liquids. Switching a LED on by placing some electrodes in water without a battery was easy to explain as a battery was just created. Showing that copper can tavel from a wire onto a coin was fun too. But most people got really stunned seeing a movie or the new play on a TV under water - after all we just learned water and electricity is a big no no... What is your biggest "trick" or experiment involving water that noone knows about?? I am working on ultrasonic HF/HV experiements trying to figure out why it seems that under certain conditions the water "produces" more energy in the form of gas, steam and light than what is put into the system from the electrical side of things. Once I can replicate some experiments and understand them I will post my results, so give a few decades please ;)

Topic by Downunder35m 1 year ago  |  last reply 1 year ago

You can help save a rare frog from extinction!

First off, I realize instructables does not want pure advertising on their site through these forms. The voting is optional and I don't want this to be viewed as advertisement. If nothing else, I want to share with you our story in the project, and hopefully you'll see how awesome this is. We are doing something that no high school has ever achieved before, and I think it's more relevant to the site than some re-posting of a blog article. I hope that you take a few minutes and find out what the Frog Project is all about! Want to support the cause of helping endangered species, education, and advancing biotech in schools? Well, take 5 minutes and vote for our school to convince Khols' to give us 1/2 million $$! Unfortunately the contest is over, but we're going to go for a $250,000 grant for a Pepsi contest in November. If you become a fan of our page (noted below) you'll be updated. Check back in November! ======================================================== Not convinced? Well, here's our story: You can help save a rare frog from extinction, and it is free! Kohls the dept. store is donating $500,000 to the 20 schools with the most creative need for the money. Your vote can help our school win this money, and best of all it costs you nothing! We are working on a project to try and save a rare frog from extinction. And we need the cash. At our small high school of 300 students, we are trying to completely sequence the genome of a rare Arizona frog. We hope to accomplish 2 things from this work. 1) We hope to rescue this frog from extinction. 2) We hope to train a new generation of students in modern biotechnology, and rescue the State of Arizona from last place in quality of education in the United States. The Chiricahua Leopard frog is currently listed as a threatened species. We have been working in conjunction with the Phoenix Zoo and Arizona Game and Fish to develop a genetic test that could aid in conservation efforts. We have already spent a year working on the sequence of the mitochondrial chromosome of this frog. Our school actually owns a DNA sequencer. We have made pioneering efforts in the design of genetic tests for this frog. Our students have presented 5 posters on our work at the International Plant and Animal Genome conference (PAG), quite an achievement for a high school. Our project was recently awarded one of only three heritage grants: By the way, the other two Heritage grants were awarded to Arizona State University and Northern Arizona University. What we really wish to do is completely sequence every chromosome in this frog. This is a very ambitious project. Consider that the human genome project completed in 2003, cost $3 billion dollars and took 13 years. Our leopard frog is estimated to contain twice as much DNA as humans! However, we think that with appropriate funding, and new technology that has recently become available we can accomplish this task in 2 years! We wish to construct what are called “DNA libraries”, collections of broken chromosome fragments of known sizes. These can be sequenced quickly using NEXT generation sequencing technology. The Chinese genomic group BGI has agreed to cover the costs of NEXT generation sequencing, and genome assembly for our project (an estimated $1 million) if our school can come up with the remaining funds needed for the construction of the libraries. We need to purchase about $200,000 in new equipment, and extend our existing lab space. With the completed genome sequence, we would like to have a custom “gene chip” manufactured. This chip will have all the DNA of the frog physically printed on it. The chip allows experiments to be carried out without any harm to any frog. This chip could then be used to aid conservation efforts by the Phoenix Zoo and Arizona Game & Fish. It could allow the exact parentage of every Chiricahua frog that is discovered to be known. Eventually this technology will become the backbone of conservation work on all species, but at this early stage it is not possible for Arizona Game & Fish to raise the funds needed to generate a gene chip before it is too late for the frog. Our school hopes to be the first in history to carry out a genome project. We hope this will serve as a guiding light to other schools, and start a grass-roots movement in the conservation and education world. Help us save our frog! Here is the catch. Vote for us on Facebook, and convince all your friends to do the same (forward this message to them), or unfortunately the frog bites it! Everybody can vote up to 5 times for us. In this way YOU can help make the difference not only for this rare species, but if we can succeed you will help pave the way to help many others. Regards, -Mike Dr. Mike Brown Science Dept. Chair AAEC-Paradise Valley Phoenix Arizona 602 569 1101 Interesting references/links about our project and research (really, we are real!): Abstracts to posters presented by our high school students at the Plant ANimal Genome Conference (PAG) Our high school and its project The MoBio scientific supply company featured us in their 2009 catalog, and describes our project on their “where in the world” page of their website: See page 8 of the Phoenix Zoo’s Conservation Science Newsletter: A recent article from the press:

Topic by lukethebook333 8 years ago  |  last reply 8 years ago