Please help me with my T8's

Hey, I am a complete noob to wiring diagrams and I have a few questions. Here is the wiring diagram on the ballast and I would like to know how to add the extra bulb to it as at the min it is wired up to power only 1 bulb. The make and model is "HELVAR L30A" 1. Where do I put the (I think its called) start plug? Currently it is connecting the two end caps that power the one bulb. Also do I need two start plugs to power two bulbs or only one? 2. Which wires and where do I plug them into the ballast? Currently it looks like this. I would be really greatful if you could explain how to do this and it would help me alot if you could translate the Wiring Diagram into a more child friendly version like I used for the current setup :) THANK YOU SOO MUCH!!!

Posted by josh40996 5 years ago

Greenpeace You Are My Sunshine Compact Flourescent Campaign

Use an energy efficient light until light shines out of your ...

Posted by ewilhelm 10 years ago

6v dc flourescent lamp from 12v source.

I have a left over Coleman dual florescent bulb set up from an old lantern that has several problems. The lights work and I want to hard wire it into our camper to run on our 12v dc back up. The current lamp setup is 2 6v, 6 watt bulbs. I know I can run them in series to accommodate for the extra voltage but do I need to worry about amperage? Do I need a resistor and if so, what wattage? Am I missing something else important? Thanks.

Posted by defiant1 10 years ago

Pancake Coil

Hello, I was going to try building an old Tesla "Pancake" Coil, and then write an instructable for it. (please don't steal my idea!) Does anyone have any information or building techniques at all that they can give me to help? The Pancake coil is just a Tesla Coil that has a flat secondary, as well as a flat primary. Tesla used it in his early radio and wireless power transmission research. The primary circuit should be pretty much the same as a conventional Tesla Coil. But I am a bit confused as to how to build the secondary. A few questions I have: What wire gauge should I use (I'm pretty sure that Tesla didn't use magnet wire for this)? How do I determine the space in between the turns? (more to come) I realize that most people don't build these kinds of coils anymore, and therefore most people probably won't be able to answer my questions or give me any info; I'd just thought that I would try and see if any one could. It would help me a lot. Thank you.

Posted by ElectricUmbrella 9 years ago

Faux Window

I'm looking for ideas to make a fake window for my cubicle at work. Ideally, it would be lightweight and provide something other than the flourescent lights above. I really like the look of Bright Blinds (see attached photo). I'm thinking a DIY version of that with maybe a poster with a view behind the blinds? I'd love some input on how to go about this project! Thanks!

Posted by gharper1 5 years ago

how to drive NCR 5972 futaba M202DL08A over serial please help.

How would i drive this beast of a display over serial.  it is a NCR 5972 futaba M202DL08A. When i send it the command 0x1B 05 to bring it out of low power mode to display text it does not do anything. it runs on 12V and i do not have the cable for it. datasheet 1 datasheet 2

Posted by devicemodder 4 years ago

Carbon Button Lamp

The Nikola Tesla group forum is asking for new projects, so I'm posting this as a suggestion. I would love to build it myself, but I lack the tools and money. This is my first contribution to Instructables, so please comment constructively.Nikola Tesla invented the Carbon Button lamp as a kind of incandescent light, because Thomas Edison banned him from using his incandescent filament bulbs. Nikola later discovered that versions of it could also be used in wireless, trans-Atlantic telegraphy, and to investigate what we now call x rays. In fact, he even used the lamp (or something similar to it) to take x-ray photographs, 8 years before Wilhelm Rotgen discovered them.For this reason, I must warn you: this device may possibly generate x rays. I am not responsible for any harm of any kind that may or may not result from re-creating this interesting device.There are phosphors that you can buy that will absorb x rays and re-emit them as visible light. I recommend that you coat the bulb with it until you know for sure that the x rays aren't strong enough to hurt you, or if makes x rays at all. Mixing it with a phosphor made for uv light wouldn't hurt either.Theory of Operation:The bulb is powered by a Tesla Coil, or other source of high voltage, high frequency current, such as a driver for a plasma globe (actually, the modern plasma globe is descended from this kind of technology!)When the power is turned on, electricity bombards the carbon button. Because carbon isn't the best conductor, this causes the button to heat and release electrons into the bulb's vacuum (the technical name for this is "thermionic emission," or the "Edison effect") . These electrons, in turn, excite the remaining air molecules and cause them to create visible light. This is strikingly similar to how fluorescent lamps work!Supposedly, the bulb should shine 10 times brighter than an incandescent bulb.(Note that the excitation of the air molecules, not the incandescence of the button, is actually the main source of light from the bulb.)If anyone decides to build it, please post an instructable showing the steps and finished product. I suggest you get started by reading the patent, number 514,170. You may also want to read part of Tesla's lecture, "Experiments with Alternate Currents of High Potential and High Frequency."To anyone who will attempt this, I wish you good luck!Patent:;=PA1&dq;=514,170+tesla&source;=gbs_selected_pages&cad;=0_1Lecture: can one use for the carbon button?Could one use a modern, hollowed-out light bulb for this? (I would think there would be some problems with sealing the globe, and with the stem.)Edit: I recently found the third picture in Tesla's Colorado Springs notes and his "apparatus for the utilization of radiant energy" patent. It must be the single-electrode x ray tube I was talking about before...

Posted by ElectricUmbrella 9 years ago

Timer to flip light switch?

I need a timer that will mechanically operate a wall switch for a light. I've seen a device years ago for sale in the various "gadget" catalogs that did exactly this. It attached to the trim plate around the light switch using the 2 trim plate screws. A battery powered digital timer operated a mechanical slide to operate the wall switch. I can't find this device anywhere now. I know there are many electronic timers that replace the wall switch and have timer capability, most do not work with compact flourescent lights. I'd really like to find a timer for sale or get some ideas on a simple way to make such a device. Thanks for any help. Scott

Posted by tscottme 9 years ago

LED Light box help

I am wanting to build a LED light box. This requires a LED filled pannel. The pannel consists of  15 rows of 20 LEDs each. This is a total of 300 LEDs to be in a pannel 24 in by 12 in. My concern is how to make this compatible with a normal 110 outlet and what kind of transformer I may need.  I have considered using a shop flourescent lighting transformer but I think that may be more than I will need based on voltage usage.  Thus I thought i would ask someone here if they know of a better way to create such a pannel.  The Pannel will have Red, White and Blue LED lights on it. So its necessary for the full effect of the 300 individual lights.  Just want to make sure I do not over kill but also not make a fire hazard by under designing as well.

Posted by pablom 8 years ago

What should I do with all this?

Hey everybody, I've been MIA in Ible-land for a long time now. In the meantime, some new stuff has been brewing here. Some totally awsome ibles coming, I promise! Recently I aquired at an auction: -a pallet of computers -printers -a 24" color plotter -a photocopier -a microscope on the end of a long arm with a fiberoptic light What should I do with the pallet of PCs, the photocopier, and the microscope? Obviously the photocopier is the big deal here. Copy machines have a loda of stepper motors (most w/ very high torque), lots of electronics, LEDs, high voltage power supplies, a flourescent lamp, belts, pulleys, encoders, shafts, wheels, feeders, speakers, com. chips, MCUs, RAM (good for advanced robots), lots-o-metal/plastic, and some very awsome/complex mechanisms. Pretty mush everything is in a photocopier. So help me out! maybe I'll use your idea to better mankind and destroy the oil industry! Okay maybe not, but it's a nice thought to imagine every car running on fuel cells. Give me some ideas because too many are running through my head. Things like: -Tesla coils -Rendering farms -laser scanners -CNC machines -static lifters -lamps (yeah, not the best idea) -railguns -large, 4x4 robots -trebuchets -sorting machines -combat robots -lasers -net-enabled robots -high-speed home PCs -extra misc. Also, the toner feeder leaks, that is why the copy machine doesn't work. There is a full toner cartridge though, what do I do with that? Well, give me some Ideas and I greatly appreciate it!

Posted by gimmelotsarobots 9 years ago

High Frequency Alternators

Look at a picture of some arcs from a common spark-gap Tesla Coil, and then compare it to the arcs from a solid-state. What makes the two so different? The difference comes from the Solid-State Tesla Coil to operate in CW (constant wave) mode. This means that its power supply is uninterrupted, whereas in a spark-gap type, power is being switched on and off hundreds of times per second. If the output terminal of a CW coil doesn't have a brake out point, no corona or spark will occur. For anyone who's investigating wireless power transmission or Tesla's version of radio, this is a very helpful feature, since corona only wastes energy. And if it does have a brake out point, it can create some pretty interesting spark displays, as I mentioned above. An arc to a grounded object increases the current in the arc to such a point that it turns into a white-hot "flaming" discharge. All-in-all, a CW type coil is a pretty interesting kind to observe. But solid-states can be pretty difficult and annoying to build, and expensive as well. Since solid-state technology obviously was not available to Tesla, he found a different way to operate his coils in CW mode- a generator that was specially designed to produce radio-frequency power. He had originally created it for high-frequency arc lighting. Today, I have seen absolutely no coils run by a high frequency alternator. Of course, an alternator would be admittedly difficult to build, but since it could probably deliver more power than a solid-state coil, it would be worth it. Does anyone know if there are any companies that still make these alternators? Would anyone be interested in recreating it? Should we even bother? Thank you for listening. Peace!

Posted by ElectricUmbrella 9 years ago

Eco-conscious: Compact Fluorescents

My friend Rawhide did a decent bit of research into the best type of compact fluorescent lightbulb, so I'm sharing is findings here. Do you have anything to add?Rawhide on compact fluorescents:In all my web searching I couldn't find a truly exhaustive comparison on lightbulb stats. Even, which was the most comprehensive, didn't list the CRI for all of its bulbs. What I did realize was that the "bright white" bulbs I bought from Home Depot were of the wrong color temperature to mix with incandescents and that is why they looked so cold. I also found a couple of people who really liked N:Vision, the Home Depot brand.So I decided to give Home Depot another shot and exchanged the bright whites for soft whites. Curiously, when I went back the CF bulbs had a big display that wasn't there the week before with the bulbs I wanted in $9 4-packs, which was much cheaper than the individual bulbs.I replaced all the bulbs in our living room and dining room and I (and the nameless other) find the light quality to be quite good---it wasn't possible to distinguish the CF from the incandecent bulbs once they warmed up. If you look at the light in the room as a whole, there is the slightest bit of 'vibration', but it's really not noticable unless you're looking for it.Net savings: 600W->140W to light the two rooms. Awesome.Finally, as a coda to my quest for compact flourescents, I learned that Massachusetts is offering a $2 rebate per package for Energy Star lights and that Home Depot also sells 6-packs for $10. So, you can get 60w replacement bulbs for $1.30 rather than $4 or $5 you sometimes see. Retailers need to supply the coupons, which are instant rebates at the register. There are also bigger rebates, like $75 off a dryer and $20 off a torchiere light fixture.

Posted by canida 11 years ago