Auto Flush for Dual Flush Toilet

I'm looking to make a auto flush mechanism like this one: http://www.amazon.com/FlushMinder-Dual-Flush-single-flush-dual-flush-Accessory/dp/B00AP8UO9E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid;=1431231167&sr;=8-1&keywords;=auto+flush. I haven't been able to find any kit like this for my dual flush WaterRidge toilet.  Anyone know how I would go about creating some kind of mechanism like this?   I have a cat that is toilet trained and I'm looking for a way to automatically flush my toilet.  Please let me know what you all think. WaterRidge Dual Flush Toilet: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=idlX-ZT7r0w

Posted by nipn3ss 3 years ago


how do you flush a radiator??

I cant find a instructable for this one, how do you flush your radiator???

Posted by frenzifun 10 years ago


Overmax Fantasytab - can I change the Android on that?

Hello Forum! So there's this kids' tablet I got from my brother's workplace - it was returned due to malfunction - boss wanted to throw it away - I opened it up, replaced few things and it's working just fine. I was wondering if I this kiddy android can be replaced to something lightweight - just for the sake of free wifi device (but with no ridiculous system). I'm a total rook when it comes to android re-/installation so I ask politely for your advice. Take care!

Posted by januszknur 2 years ago


Source for sheared flush circuit boards

Thinking about making wallets and or clipboards with circuit boards for the holidays. Does anyone have a source for sheared flush (pre soldered) circuit boards? Any help is greatly appreciated 

Posted by lepow 6 years ago


Source for sheared flush circuit boards

Thinking about making wallets and or clipboards with circuit boards for the holidays. Does anyone have a source for sheared flush (pre soldered) circuit boards? Any help is greatly appreciated

Posted by lepow 6 years ago


Help needed with recycling greywater to flush the toilet!

We have a small shower and toilet room and what I'd like to do is use the water from the shower and store it in a tank so that it can be used for flushing the toilet. It sounds simple enough, but I'm new to building things like this so I have a few questions to ask the forum! 1. I've read that greywater can go stagnant quite quickly. Would this matter if it was only being used to flush the toilet? If it is a problem, is there a simple/compact/cheap way of filtering the water first? 2. You'd need to make sure that there was always enough water in the tank to flush the toilet, so there would need to a minimum amount in there that if there wasn't enough greywater from the shower available, that it would get topped up from the mains water. Would you use a float valve for this or is there a better way? 3. I'm not exactly sure where I would be able to position the tank. Either way I would probably have to use a pump of some sort, either to get the greywater into the tank or to get the water from the tank to the toilet. Should I just use a submersible pump or something else? Any other ideas or small projects that people have done would be great to hear about. Thanks James

Posted by stormuk 9 years ago


Water-saving toilet hack

Toilets use fresh water, and lots of it.  Sure, you can buy a low-flow model, but you're still flushing with a (smaller) quantity of fresh, otherwise drinkable water. Gregorylavoie decided to get double use out of that water by hacking his toilet.  It's a neat, reversible modification: after you flush, you use the clean, incoming tank refill water for handwashing.  Your slightly soapy hand-wash runoff fills the tank, and is saved for the next flush.  It's a simple, ingenious way to save water with little to no effort. What do you think?  Would you try this mod on your toilet? This post has been sponsored by Pepsi. The Pepsi Refresh Project celebrates the people, businesses, and non-profits with ideas that will have a positive effect on our world.

Posted by canida 8 years ago


How to flush out a groundhog

Alright I have a real problem.A whole community of groundhogs has just made its home in my dams retaining wall. I have counted around five separate holes in the wall and have tried to smoke them out with around 5 separate smoke grenades, but apparently the tunnel system is much like the Viet Cong and are just to vast. I need to nail these rodents ASAP before they break through. Any help would be great thanks.

Posted by Sedgewick17 11 years ago


Can't post new images

Currently, on FF21, and Chrome, I can't post new images to the site as answers. I've flushed cookies as usual, no dice. Anyone else seeing it ? Yet HERE, in the forums, using the old code for the image uploader, it DOES work.....

Posted by steveastrouk 5 years ago


Toilet Makes the Super Mario Bros. Warp Pipe Sound When Press the Flush Handle

I thought the games forum might like my Warp Pipe Sound Effect Toilet. Please rate it and vote if you like!

Posted by yardleydobon 6 years ago


Outdoor chandelier

I am looking to DIY an outdoor chandelier with mason jars. It would be located in a gazebo but i guess i cant assume water wont get in there. Has anyone built anything similar? Also i would like it to be almost flush have a low profile. My main concern is how do i keep it water proof? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Posted by tac1230 4 years ago


Cutting acrylic sheets

I am trying to cut some pieces of acrylic sheeting about 3/16th inches thick.  I was wondering if the instructables on the laser cutter built from 2 old scanners would work for cutting the acrylic sheets? Or if not that, what might work for making acrylic parts that are flush enough to chemical bond making a water tight connection? Thank you, Eron.

Posted by eronjonson 6 years ago


Toilet Paper Cores -- Rolling Out Of The Recycling Bin & Into A Very Creative Rainy Day Craft Project!

Finally, dead trees everywhere will revel in a life well-lived (above and beyond being flushed down the drain). This is a very original way to use the inside of toilet paper rolls and will probably appeal to parents, greenies, artsy people and crafters alike. Fun stuff!

Posted by sfinfgeld 9 years ago


Custom outlets?

I'm planning to build a new computer desk with space inside to manage cables. I would like to include various ports on the side edges of the desk itself (power outlets, USB, hdmi, etc). What could I use to fit these outlets in place and look flush with the desk? I would like to come up with something somewhat modular, so that I can add or remove them as I upgrade my PC.

Posted by Xeriel 6 years ago


Copper inlayed wood

Hello, I'm new to working with wood, and I want to find a way to inlay pieces of copper into small pieces of wood. Can someone explain how I might do this. I want the copper pieces to be flush with the wood, and I like an element of spontaneity, so I'm wondering if its possible to pour molten copper into a crevice on a piece of wood. If it's not how can I at least get the piece of copper to stick into the wood? Thanks for any thoughts. 

Posted by kpryce 3 years ago


Looking for a creative idea - fastening

I was wondering, perhaps somebody has a creative idea how to fasten a piece of Velcro to an aluminium plank 3/8'' wide. I was thinking: 1. Riveting - the head is to big though and the result is not as flush as I would like to be. 2. Glue - I don't like gluing things, would rather have a mechanical\fusing solution. But even if I agree to do so, what kind of glue should I use?

Posted by dneishtadt 4 years ago


Magnetic Switch Paired with Timer - Help

Hi All, I am a real newbie in electronics, and have been researching. I want to build a submersible pump, using (5 gallon bucket, a toilet flush valve and a pond pump -120 volts). What I need is some way to control the pump so its not running 100% of the time. What I need is a Timer which would keep the pump running for X minutes and a magnetic switch which would activate the timer once the toilet flush valve is at a specific level.) I dont know how to set this up, I found 555 timers on amazon but not sure which ones would serve to what I need this one seems to be what i need but it is 12 volts http://www.amazon.com/Velleman-K2579-Universal-Start-Timer/dp/B000TA7A04/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&qid;=1420401325&sr;=8-2-fkmr0&keywords;=555+timer+10+minutes maybe this thing would work http://www.amazon.com/Packard-PTD102-Delay-Timer-Relay/dp/B004UVP90Q/ref=pd_sim_e_14?ie=UTF8&refRID;=1HAEQTK68GZRVFP7XHFZ Can someone recommend how to go about building something like that? Or maybe there is something similar already built? Thank you very much!

Posted by agitman1 3 years ago


Covert bluetooth dongle to mini USB?

Having purchased an android tablet with mini USB ports I have finally got my tiny USB bluetooth dongle to work with it using the provided OTG USB to mini USB cable. I was wondering if anyone has dismantled a bluetooth dongle and fitted it with a mini USB connector? I think it would be so much better to have it sitting directly flush to the tablet rather than having it hanging out at the end of a cable. Would this be easy to do or should I leave well alone? Thanks Gaz.

Posted by gary101 7 years ago


Need to purchase small diameter metal tubing with screw-on flush endcaps?

Hello, I am looking for a supplier that sells metal tubing, steel, very small inner diameter with threading inside and end-caps that screw on to make it flush and appear as a solid metal rod (rubber O-ring if needed to keep dry).  I am attempting to make paracord survival key fobs.  I want to fit various tiny survival gear inside the tube, closed on both ends then weave the stitching around the rod.  When needed the user can unravel the paracord for use with what's inside the tube.  It must be tubing because one of my ideas is to put thermite inside a tube, wrap some magnesium ribbon around the outside, then stitch the fob around that.  Other ideas include other types of survival gear but that one will be my fire starter fob.  :)   The rods would be about 2-3 inches in length, wall diameter thin but sturdy, inner diameter maybe 1/4 - 1/2 inches.  Thanks for any help.  Rounded end caps would work fine as well as they would give me more room to stuff things in, but I need access to the suppliers for both the threaded tubing and end caps.  :)

Posted by lmiller31 5 years ago


Peeponics doggy urine nutrient cycle system

Hi, I have a dog at home who uses a litter tray. It's basically a large plastic water run off tray with some AstroTurf. Currently, I have a pump that draws off liquids and deposits them into an empty soda bottle, which I flush down the toilet. But I was wondering if there is an easy way to convert the urine into nitrates which I could use in an aquaponics, or peeponics, system? Possibly using an attractive under water garden in a 25 gallon fish tank?

Posted by jmlidea 7 years ago


use for intestine veiwing camera

My husband is getting ready to have a procedure done where he swallows a pill sized camera that moves through his digestive system taking pictures, then passes from the body.http://www.uihealthcare.com/news/pacemaker/2004/summer/camerainapill.html I know it sounds disgusting, but I keep wondering if there is a way to use the camera after it's been passed.If it passes before he eats anything, it shouldn't come in contact with any body waste and can easily be disinfected. It just seems like such a waste to just flush the little camera down the toilet

Posted by dulciquilt 9 years ago


Touch sensors using lights and PVC?

Hmm... What would it be like to replace a physical switch with a touch sensitive switch. Instead of using a beam of light to detect a triggering, we use a illuminated transparent PVC plastic. This allows the interface to be more flushed into the wall. How it will work, is that by touching the transparent plastic, you allow a small amount of light to escape. The circuit will detect this drop in light level and trigger the switch. Pros: it looks cool, and is of lower maintenance than a physical switch. Its also cheaper then other options such as capacitive sensing Cons: it can have false readings due to the use of light as a sensing medium.

Posted by akimbo m 10 years ago


Replacing black ink with colour ink

Hi, I'm trying to do a uni project and I'm not having much look at the moment. What I want is for the ink in the black cartridge to be a colour ink instead of black. It did seem to work but now it's not. I flushed the cartridge with water several times to clean it out and then placed magenta ink in and the first through prints it started to print the Magenta but then stopped and how all it seems to do is leak from the cartridge and flood the base. The printer is a HP 1220c using HP 45 Cartridge which has the print head on the actual cartridge. Can anyone suggest anything? Thanks Phil

Posted by drop_dead_fred 3 years ago


Part of iPad Screen Not Working after Replacement

Hi! I replaced the digitizer on my iPad 2. It was damaged in 2 separate drops and the screen was completely shattered. It was working fine before I replaced it. Took me 2-1/2 hours to get it off and clean up the glass and I had to grind flat two of the corners with my Dremel Tool so the replacement trim and the digitizer would lay flush with the frame. After I installed it, the iPad fired up just fine and was working, just there is a 2-1/2 inch section of the screen (about 4" up from the home button) that wasn't responding to touch. The top 1 inches of the screen worked fine, and the bottom 4" worked fine. I tried reseating the digitizer cable numerous times with no effect. I heard it's supposed to fit into the connector with the white dots flush with the connector, but it won't go in any further, even when I pushed it with my plastic pick. I was very careful in removing it and didn't damage any cables (WiFi, power, volume) or connectors. However, I did rub the sleep/wake sensor with my spudger and roughed it up a bit. It's not completely destroyed, but you can tell it was molested 8( Is it possible that in damaging the sleep/wake sensor that it would make the screen behave that way? Could it be the digitizer being faulty? I got it off Amazon for cheap. I am doing an RMA on it soon. If the replacement digitizer doesn't work, then I don't know what to do. Any suggestions would be appreciated! Thanks. Nick

Posted by NickB6 3 years ago


160,000 pounds of ink...

From Juxtapoz Magazine: All you wanted to do was have a smooth commute this morning but of course it takes you an addition two hours because of an overturned tracker-trailer, what a way to start the day right? Well this morning outside of Boston, we can imagine commuters were rubber-necking more than usual as they got to see one hell of a sight . . . 160,000 pounds of industrial printer ink splattered over a 500 foot stretch of road…   I'm not sure it's actually 160,000 lbs of ink, since that's over 72 tonnes.  Let's call it 16,000 lbs, that works out as over $10,000,000 worth of colourful drain flush. I wonder if the driver still has a job?  

Posted by Kiteman 7 years ago


Pass PVC through a plastic lid without leaking

I'm trying to pass a PVC pipe through a plastic lid into a plastic box without leaking water from the pipe or the box. The water in the pipe will be pressurized, while the water in the box will be splashed. A small leak isn't a big deal. Unfortunately, this is also a bit of a stress point, though not terribly. See the picture and the diagram below (which is actually not quite right; the pipe on the top won't be that long; it will turn 90 degrees just above the plastic lid. Any suggestions on how to keep it from leaking? Perhaps make the T under the lid flush with the lid and the same for the elbow joint above it, and then make the hole as small as possible? That wouldn't keep all water out though, but it may work for splashes. Any ideas are greatly appreciated!

Posted by Nateowami 3 years ago


usb face plate

Does any one have a line on a usb face plate for the front of a computer? im looking for some thing that would replace one of the removeable slot covers on any computer. i have a car stereo that has usb hook up for flash drives but it looks ghetto with a usb cable hanging out from the dash. i only need 1 usb slot so i guess i could just cut a multi port on up....if i could find one. i checked rs, tigedirect, bestbu, circuit city, and a few build your own comp shops and cant find the usb plate i need. i have a cable with the female end on it and i guess i just need on of these plates to plug it into and flush mount it to my dash steve

Posted by cruisermedic 11 years ago


If you are reading this, then I am back with a small apology.

If you are reading this, then I have gone.On holiday, that is.I brought my little laptop with me, but forgot the wall-wart!I'll be popping in as borrowed laptops allow, but otherwise I'll be properly back in just over a week and a half.(UPDATE: I type on Friday 7th, 21:30 UK time. I will be unlikely to post again until a week on Sunday. For those who asked, we are going to based in Alnmouth for the next week.)So, I return, and find somebody has flushed a little too imaginatively, and left it dripping down the walls...An apologyMy email notifications say I have had hundreds of comments recently - I doubt I will read them all, so I apologise to anybody who does not receive a reply. If it was important, PM me.

Posted by Kiteman 9 years ago


BUG: Keeps changing log-ins

OK, a weird bug - Roger-X was editing his first instructable, and when he changed steps it suddenly changed from being logged in as him, to being logged in as me. No strange messages or useful screen-shots - it was just the bit at the top that changed. The page also locked, so that in the end we had to shut down Firefox and re-start it. Later, when I was looking at my comments, the login suddenly jumed back to Roger-X's. Again, no odd messages, and this time it didn't lock - I could access all his account quite easily. Additionally - we are experiencing problems logging in and out - if one of us logs out, the other can't log in until we shut down FF and re-start (yes, we've tried flushing the cookies etc). We type in our username and password, and it just jumps back to the login option. It's bleedin' annoying, folks.

Posted by Kiteman 9 years ago


Removing a teeny/tiny iPod/iPhone drilled screw

Hello, I have been doing some repair work on an iPod Touch 3G. One repair I'm having to perform is the power button which is totally unresponsive. This required removing some very soft tiny screws at the bottom of the device. Unfortunately, one didn't survive the screwdriver and quickly chewed up, which means I've had to drill it using a drill bit, which took a surprising amount of effort. The problem now I have is extracting the final stem which is still screwed in. The stem isn't flush with the metal but it's not far off, making it hard to grab using pliers. I'm looking for some suggestions how to remove it. I've read that cutting a thin screwdriver in half and gluing it using super glue is a way. Another way seems to buying an extraction set but the only one I can find in the area looks far too big (despite having a precision piece). Thoughts? All suggestions welcome.

Posted by skezza 3 years ago


Arduino-Based Solar Heater for My Above Ground Pool

A few weeks ago I grabbed the garden hose to top off the pool and noticed how hot the water was as it came out. (the hose had been lying in the sun). So, I decided to put it to good use. We've been looking at solar heaters for the pool but found the prices prohibitive, and being a DIY'er I decided to build my own. I have 50' of black, tangle-free hose coiled on a 2' by 4' piece of Wolmanized, 3/4" plywood. This is perched on top of an 8' 4by4 post which I sunk into the ground near the pool's filter. To feed the hose I installed a faucet in the filter's return line which is under sufficient pressure to travel up and into the hose. The other end comes down to an electric valve before emptying back into the pool. The Arduino portion of the project consists of an Arduino Uno board, a DS18B20 temperature sensor probe, a 12-volt, 3-amp power supply, A small prototype board that holds two 12-volt relays and two 2N3904 transistors which the Arduino triggers, two 12-volt car-type relays which are triggered by the smaller ones, and a Mallory Sonalert. My idea was to have the Arduino monitor the temperature in the return line from the solar hose coil, and when it reaches 80 degrees F, the Sonalert goes off for 5 seconds to warn swimmers that hot water will be coming out of the return spout in the pool. And after the warning sounds, the electric valve then opens for 2 minutes, flushing the warmed water into the pool. Since the system is driven by the pool's filter, the solar hose is replenished during this flush period, and when the valve closes, that new water is then heated, and the whole process starts over. The Arduino code consists of a couple libraries to incorporate and read the temp' probe's output, a subroutine which tests both the Sonalert and the valve when the system is first plugged in, and then the necessary code in the Void Loop section which simply waits for the temp' to reach a preset level and then sound the alert and then open the valve.The system is built into an 8" by 6" electrical box that mounts on the 4 by 4 post just under the solar hose panel.The systems been up and running for about a week now and I've averaged about a 2 degree rise in the pool's water temp' per day.If anyone is interested in seeing photos of the project, or the Arduino code, I'll be happy to provide. UPDATE: Here are some phots of the project...

Posted by bnelson218 5 months ago


Mains Beer?

My head occasionally says "what about mains-beer?". Instead of buying stuff to take home, you have a beer-tap on the sink. Here is how it might work: You build a distribution centre, which may just be storage, but could also be a brewery, and run pipes around a nearby residential area. Each home has a beer-meter like a water-meter which is data-linked to a consumer-unit on a beer-tap on a sink. The distribution-point provides mains-beer under gravity, consumption of which is measured by the meter and data is fed to the consumer-unit. That box displays beer consumption, and via a radio-link informs the distribution-point. Periodically the lines will need to be flushed, here's how that would work: > The centre switches the supply from beer to water, which is coloured with a harmless-dye, and radios the consumer-units which display the message "free beer" whilst playing Happy Hour. Consumers vigorously empty the lines while it's free. When the water hits the meter-unit an optical-sensor calls the consumer-unit to shut off via a solenoid-valve, the consumer-unit reports back to the distribution-centre that water has reached it. After a set period the distribution-centre radios the units which haven't yet reported water to open (solenoid). Any units failing to give an adequate response within a reasonable period are radioed to display a "fault" message and flagged for a service-visit. The distribution-centre then switches supply to cleaning-fluid, and messages all consumer-units to display "cleaning!" and open up (solenoid). Once sufficient flow has gone through each meter, they shut off (solenoid) and radio-back. Then a water-flush follows in a similar way. Once the lines have been cleaned, the supply is switched back beer, the consumer units run until they no longer read "water", plus a bit more to clear dead-volume between meter and tap. Then the consumer-units display "read to dispense fresh beer". Pros: Beer is chilled by the ground in which piping is laid No packaging-costs (cans / bottles / kegs) Less transport costs Drinkers have an almost unlimited supply enabling them to drink more than they might otherwise. No more beer runs when the game runs long or uninvited guests show up (Re-design) Consumer units can display total quantities dispensed, with cost and "don't you think you've had enough?" Cons: Initial infrastructure cost It'll work best with poor quality-beer Well?

Posted by lemonie 8 years ago


What a waste of F'ing water....

I know it is important to keep certain systems running reliably... But this seems ridiculous. I came home and heard a lot of water rushing into the drain. Not far down the street, I see a yellow box dumping hundreds of gallons of water. So I ran inside, grabbed a flashlight... ran outside... flashlight is missing a battery... ran inside, got battery then ran outside. I got next to the box and called the phone number on the side. Water management picked up. I explained that it was a yellow box next to a fire hydrant on a concrete pad. The tech immediatly knew that it was just "flushing the system" and said it would be on for awhile. He thanked me for calling and I hung up. 6 months ago, that box wasn't there. I've lived in this city for over 15 years and never saw this. To me, it seems like a lazy and poor solution to some problem I can't seem to find searching google. My guess would be sediment from lack of use (but iono). Anyway... I thought I'd share my frustration.... Oh, it was on for 2 hours! after I got home..... just wow.

Posted by trebuchet03 11 years ago


Back-up power

Hey there folks! Looking for some advise again. NH just went through the worst power outage in years (maybe history). 6 days without power has me thinking again. I have means of heat (wood stove) and means of cooking (propane) and lighting (candles and my LED projects), but the well pump is a problem. The need of water to flush the toilets came from the stream nearby, all well and good as it was, washing our bodies from buckets has to go. I have learned that my 220vac well pump actually draws it's power from 2 110 vac circuits. If I have this right (which is my first question, is this even possible) I only need a 110vac converter to run this off my batteries. Now, if I'm correct here (second question) a 4amp 220vac pump is 880 watts, then the draw from the 12vdc battery should be 74amps (give a few for losses maybe 80 amps). I only have 2 160AH deep cell batteries running currently. Am I looking at a reality of 2 hrs (half the draw) or 4 hrs use (full draw)? Or, is it even less.... Yup, that was a third question! I just bought a 2500 (5000 max) watt inverter intended for the shop and thought I would use this as my back-up for the winter. Am i even close here?

Posted by olddawg 9 years ago


Epic thread patch contest! UPDATED - All gone! Thanks for participating!

I seem to be flush with all these shiny patches! They're burning a hole in my pocket, and I can't wait to give them away.So here's the deal: start or reply to an epic thread on this topic. Comment exchanges that are Epic in some way (epically funny, epically fail, epically thoughtful, epically intelligent, involving epic numbers of staff (where staff number > 0 = EPIC) or any other kind of epic) win all epic participants patches!! Exchanges on other topics or instructables - published AFTER 7/24 10:12 PM Central time - are also eligible for submission, but comments on here are preferred. ;)So go on, make my day with an epic posting!UPDATEWow, you guys are pretty epic!! I've got two epic patches left to give - I'm going to make you work much, much harder for the last two. ;) Last epic patches go to especially epic posts. You have to make me either literally laugh out loud or cry (or both). Seeing as how this is a more demanding requirement, the prize is a little sweeter - I'll give you any * patch you want! *see instructables TOS for pertinent exceptionsUPDATE: All gone! Wow! Ya'll are really epic!!

Posted by Lithium Rain 9 years ago


Ikea RAMVIK Coffee Table Arcade Mod

I'm in the purchasing phase to begin building a new arcade modded coffee table.  I have most everything figured out, my only issue is an idea a friend of mine expressed to me tonight and that is a "spring loaded latch" to serve as a means to, when first pushed in, release the monitor from being held in place on the table so it can be more conveniently angled towards the viewers, and when pushed in again, to latch it back into position (flush with table top). My problem is,  I have no idea what these things are called or what they look like. I'm fairly certain "spring loaded latch" is the appropriate terminology, but not completely sure as everything I'm seeing looks entirely foreign to me. I've included a terrible, terrible MS Paint version (I literally spent ~5 minutes on this) to kind of show what I'm going for. I want it flat on latch, angled at release. Spring loaded to push it forward upon release, but locking at the end point (say 35 degrees). This will be my first mod, and I absolutely HAVE to do it as my wife thought it was cool enough to allow for our living room piece. So, to reiterate, my question is: What is the name of this piece that latches/releases upon pressing? Is there one viable for something as heavy as this monitor (21.5" IPS LED Monitor)? --- Also, if anyone has any suggestions, please do share. I am a total novice but my father is a woodworking aficionado (though my intent is to keep this as exclusive to my own efforts as possible).  When I finish this piece, I will absolutely include a step-by-step instruction PDF. Thanks, Eric

Posted by bowserpunch 5 years ago


Ways to customize your laptop

Asus, a sponsor of Instructables, has put together WePC where they are asking for input on their next generation laptops. As part of their sponsorship, they've asked my opinion on various aspects of laptops. Most recently Ways to customize your laptop? I just had a call with some of the people at Asus this morning, and they are actively finalizing the list of features for the community-designed laptop. So, if you still have a suggestion, head over to WePC and submit! I've written before about how I think customization makes a laptop attractive, and how my favorite way to customize laptops is with a laser etcher. However, I realize not everyone yet has access to a laser. So, what are some other non-traditional (i.e. stickers) ways to customize your laptop?Whiteboard material -- you could use it as a giant, oversized to-do list! Make sure to include a snapping plastic cover to protect your notes from being rubbed off.Neon message board laptop -- a neon message board is a erasable luminescent whiteboard-like surface that is illuminated from the edge; they are often seen is restaurants showing specials. Use the laptop's backlight for the illumination, and broadcast your message or design with fluorescent markers.Magnetic surface -- magnetic laptop poetry.Corkboard -- Remember to always use the flush thumb-tacks!Chalkboard -- perhaps a little dusty, but you could probably end meetings early by "accidentally" running your fingernails across it.The cool thing about all of these materials (perhaps excluding the corkboard) is that they could easily fit into the minimalist, clean-lined laptops that have become the norm. But, they allow you to really be expressive when you need a splash of something unique to break you out of a funk -- or just a note to pick up milk.

Posted by ewilhelm 9 years ago


water-based kinetic LED lamp

I want to mak a kinetic light using high-powered LEDs to produce glitter line through a thin layer of agitated turbulent water in a wall mounted shelf. So, this gives me a few questions, but let me start with the idea I've got. I want to seperate a shelving unit (preferably solid wood not particleboard with some decent HxDxW) into two compartments. A glass sheet would be slid into grooves onto the side supports. The upper portion of the shelving unit would then be wood, waterproofed with some thin styrene plastic sheets. The bottom would then be composed of a large aluminum sheet (recessed slightly upwards for astheatics) which would house several LEDs in addition to the power adapter and voltage regulator. This would likely follow the "powering high powered LED" tutorial's alternate power source to the pucks. At this point a small pump would be placed into the upper compartment along with just enough water to submerge the pump to a safe level. Perhaps a small recess would be included in the top to allow instant colour shifts by using stained clear plastic sheets (this would reduce total illumination, but these are to be mood/ambient accents not primary lighting source) to avoid any of the more expensive/complex colour shifting lamps. The big question I have at this point is how thermally safe this would be, and how much LED I would actually need to achieve decent brightness. Also, I would prefer if the bottom was modular enough I could remove and work on it without dissasembling the entire assembly, but this may not be possible. Finally, I was wondering if I could run the heatsink material up the ront of the shelf, past the glass, and into the water (this should give great heat dissipation) and have a SAFE and STABLE waterproof join between a flush glass-metal joint with possible use of epoxy and/or silicone caulking. Anything not specified in here I'm uncertain of how to do exactly. So! If anyone has any ideas, suggestions, or awareness that this is pure madness (or has a better way t oget those glitter lines i lust for) please let me know.

Posted by JRGumby 11 years ago


All I have is an idea (And a love of instructables)

Hello dear Instuctablists, You can't see me, but I am down on one knee. It's intended to show my deference to you. The reason? Well, we just finished rebuilding the ground floor of my house and there's now a big, deep-ish rectangular space above the toilet (about 70cm x 50cm and 15 cm deep). I was looking at it the other day, and had an idea for what I would like to put there that made me laugh out loud. The trouble is I have NO IDEA how to make it. Not only that, I can't think of any search terms that are leading me to 'how to' videos. In short all I have is an idea and no clue how to even begin making it. So, here's my idea. What I want to make is what appears to be a framed picture of two velvet curtains. BUT when you flush, the curtains draw back (like at the theatre) to reveal a small scene inside. Lights come on, some music plays, little toys/characters/puppets appear and then ten seconds later, the curtains close and that's that.  In other words and automated, electronic, toy theatre. So what I'm asking is either a) If you have any idea where I should start with this could you tell me where or b) If the end product sounds like something you'd like to see exist and you know how to make it, do you want to mentor me? (We could turn it into a YouTube video/series, do it over Skype or if you're in/near London, UK meet up IRL). Maybe I'm over-reaching in the help stakes, but every time I look at that blank piece of wall, I think: try. Any help gratefully received. Even if you can't help, thanks for reading this. RH (Also, I can't work out how to turn that picture round either. Sheesh. This whole thing is a TALL order)

Posted by RufusH 3 years ago


bare bronze welding cast iron

If you happen to have a some what rare car, or one that is simply thirty or more years old, you may find that if you ever crack your manifold exauhst that you can not get another by simply going to a (pick and pull) So, the first thought is..most of the time, "I will simply zap it with NIRod". WRONG! an old manifold that has repeatedly heated and cooled is very brittle and the sudden change in temp and too rapid cooling may crack it even more. Now what i do is use bare bronze rod and braze the crack. Here is how i do it. First I find the ends of the cracks and drill a 1/4 hole half way through the material at each end of the cracks. Next I use a rose bud torch and heat up the cast iron as evenly as possible peening with a hammer lightly to releive stress in the casting. After about five minutes of this I quickly switch to a oxy-actl. brazing tip and start my pass. The first thing i do is heat up as much of the crack as i can to cherry red and sear one coat of bronze using plenty of flux. Then I start at one end of the crack and fill in the crack that i had previously veed out with a grinder to half way of the depth of the material and no more than 1/4 inch wide. I use an overlapping spot weld like technique. i lay a small amount of bronze, remove heat for a second and overlapp where i left out. When done I have a bronze brazing weld with no undercut or cold roll. Then i use the rose bud again for some post heating gradulay reducing the heat and peening with hammer again. Then I quickly take the whole peice and cover it in powdered lime so that it cools very slowly. This will stop it from cracking due to rapid cooling. Also it may put some ductility in the cast iron. It takes about four hours to be cool enough to touch with the bare hand. Then I grind the bronze weld flush and inspect the weld to see if i got proper bonding, all you should see is a ribbon of nbronze that has no porosity or cavities. I have also done rare boat manifolds like this when repeative NIRod was used at other shops and they broke every time. Still no 100 percent with cast iron like this. Sometimes it just cracks more, after all it is a dirty porous metal that is very brittel. Anyway, i have had very good luck doing it this way

Posted by beserker 6 years ago


What would be your war set?

Alright now that I have the ability to post again I'm going to start a random thread that I haven't seen yet. Say you had enough pieces if you don't already. What would be your perfect set of war weapons. I don't care how many you pick because you'd only be able to carry so many at a time and place the others somewhere for safe keeping. Mine would be- 1. If only I got it to work perfectly (it worked a lot better than my last one) I would use this as my main weapon or side arm if I decided to snipe. In case you didn't know this is my updated assault pistol. I could probably remake and improve further if I get requests. 2. For a normal side arm I'd probably go for my TDS2 simply because nearly all side arms function the same and I'm used to using this. I have made another side arm based off of Dsman's and making it more compact but I couldn't get a picture. I could probably remake that under request too. 3. If nothing else this would probably be a main weapon. The feel of the weapon is just awesome. If we played replicas only this would probably be on the better ones only behind the MP5 and K'nexStealth's sniper (only because it's a sling). It's reliability and removable magazine would make it an awesome short-medium range weapon. 4. (updated from picture) Then I might also carry this around as a secondary. Everyone loves a good shotgun. Or at least I would love sending a spread of "pellets" toward the enemy. I have a better idea for a repeating pistol with removable magazine, shells, and awesome shot amount. 5. Alright finally to get away from my weapons. I'd probably use IaC's striker pistol or whatever just so I can get those long distance shots without a sniper. 6. If I absolutely needed a sniper I'd probably go for K'nexStealth's (sorry I forgot the name of the weapon) because it looks the coolest. 7. I said this earlier but I'll say it again. I'd probably try out my modded version of dsman's side arm because it's more accurate than the TDSs. 8. Finally I'd carry a couple of D splodies or a war bomb just incase I need to flush out an enemy. By the way I'm currently stumped on what to make next. I happened to make a new curved magazine so if you guys happen to have a gun with a curved magazine (removable) I might do that although I'd prefer something new.

Posted by TheDunkis 9 years ago


12 Hurricane Preparedness Projects

I read some of the 12 projects. I did one myself since I live in Puerto Rico, went through Hurricane Irma this past Wednesday (Sept 6th) ,have been though several hurricane sin the past (since 1964), and will go through a new one (Hurricane Jose) this weekend. In most occasions, we lost power and water for days. I lost only power for 30 hours after Hurricane Irma. My own project was a two part installation for when I lacked water (I have a generator set for power): 1. Install a 50 gallon cistern on my roof to store potable water for cleaning and bathing needs 2. Install a pressurized 20 gallon tank for showering The 50 gallon cistern was actually a large trash barrel with a removable cover ($40), which I added two 1/2 inch plastic faucet valves, one near the base as a gravity fed output, and one on the cover as a water inlet. After cleaning the barrel, and attaching the valves, I fixed the barrel (now a "cistern") on my roof (over a beam for weight distribution) with two wire guides. I attached a plain water hose from an external faucet to the top valve to fill the cistern. Then I attached a new hose to the bottom valve and ended that with a regular sprayer. I fitted this into the bathroom over the toilet tank and near the sink, so it can be used for face and hand washing, and for filling the toilet tank after each flush. The pressurized water tank is a unused water heater that can hold up to 120 PSI. I replaced the cold water inlet with a cap and a auto tire valve by drilling into the cap and pulling the tire vale through (same as for a wheel hub).. I installed a 1/2 inch faucet on the hot water outlet and a short (pressure resistant) water hose, and finished it with a water sprinkler. Then I installed a.new 1/2 inch valve on the drain.for the lower water inlet.  I attached the hose from the cistern to the lower valve, opened the valves on the cistern output and tank input, and removed the inner stem from the tire vale. When the tank was full, some water will spurt out from the open tire valve. Then I close both valves, remove the cistern hose, reinstall the tire valve stem, and use an electric air pump to apply pressure up to 50 PSI.  Now if I open the water sprinkler, i have a hand held shower!  After one use (about five minutes) the pressure can drop but if I have electrical power, I can reapply air pressure again. After several showers, I release the remaining air pressure at the tire valve, refill the tank from the cistern, and apply air pressure again. This has worked for years, and I keep everything ready for the next storm of when I have no water supply.

Posted by RaymondR6 1 year ago


Bolt Action Rotary Magazine Gun (updated with internals)

Alright, it's been a while, forgive me. I work in spurts of an hour or two every few nights. It's not quite finished, but it's at a point I'm comfortable showing. I'm also working with BM, so hopefully he can make some improvements on it before it's posted. This gun is the combination of two different goals I've had. First off, I always wanted to make a bolt action. I came up with the idea for the modern bolt action long ago but was beaten to the punch. So since then, as others have made their own bolt actions, I still struggled to make one up to my own standards. I wanted something sleek and compact with a removable magazine. Second, I went off on a little tangent while building, which then turned into its own project: a rotary magazine. While it's been done before, I don't know if it was ever successfully used in a gun. It's more about the novelty than the practicality, but what it does do is give you more storage in a compact design and act as a decent foregrip. I wanted to make it a decently usable. At first I thought of making just some cruddy gun to show off the concept as a usable magazine, but then I decided I may as well go the full nine yards and make it perform well. So this is what I ended up with. I don't have a real name for it yet, but I've considered calling it the Barackuda, a portmanteau of Barack (Obama) and barracuda because...well why not. I wanted to keep it as compact as possible, so I used a barrel similar to my Oodassault 3 series and a stock connection similar to my PDR. The stock is a bit long compared to the body of the gun, so it may look awkward, but I wanted to give at least enough room to aim the gun without sticking the pin into your eye. The blue connectors in the stock stop the bolt right after the trigger engages. The bolt is somewhat typical. I like how it sits flush with the back of the gun rather than looking like an extension on the back of it. The handle isn't amazing, just a variation of my tried and true handle I've come to like. The trigger also isn't amazing, and in hindsight, I want to block a bit further back still, but it works for the limited space I've got. The magazine on the other hand is magical. Go look at my last topic for details on its operation. This version is for yellow rods. I've added a rotary lock and band. When the middle rod is pushed toward the trigger (like in the pic), it's locked. It can securely contain 10 usable yellow rods while locked, though it can load up to 12, the top 2 can fall out. You insert it into the gun by pressing the top two red rods at an angle into gaps in the grey connectors at the front, then rotate the magazine, slightly pushing in, until you get the white rod in the gaps of the yellow connector. Finally, you push in the middle red rod by the trigger all the way forward to unlock the magazine. Edit (9/10/2015): Made my adjustments and now I'm mostly satisfied with the weapon. Here's the video.

Posted by TheDunkis 3 years ago


Wild Boar Hunt

This past weekend, Christy and I went a on wild boar hunt near Red Bluff, CA. We used a local guide called Catch 'Em Outfitters, and had one of the best weekend-vacations in a long time. In the end, we came home with over 100 lbs of wild pig meat. Christy had a blast gutting and field dressing all the animals -- surprising the guides -- and we've spent the past few days processing the meat ourselves making hams, chops, and sausage. There will definitely be a few new wild boar recipes, but probably no how to hunt or how to field dress a pig Instructables, unfortunately. Since most of our friends have read Michael Pollan's The Omnivore's Dilemma and paid special attention to his description of a boar hunt, they have already started begging for meat. So far, I've made wild boar maple sausage, which, despite my feeling that it was a little too one-note with just maple syrup, still received a review of "I was not ready for how good that was going taste."There are more pictures of the hunt on my flickr collection of the weekend, but be aware that they show the full process of converting an animal to meat on the table. What follows below is my Yelp review of the hunting guide, and the experience in general:Catch 'Em Outfitters is a hunting guide service, and because of the extraordinary work of its owner, Jasen Mead, I brought home over 100 pounds of wild pig meat.I chose Catch 'Em because of Jasen's excitement to take a novice hunter out, and his willingness to let me use his rifles. I've hunted birds before, but for my first wild boar hunt, it was important for me to go with someone who was interested in teaching. Additionally, he encouraged my wife to come along as a non-hunter, and she ended up gutting the animals. He offered my choice of spot and stalk hunting -- where one tries to locate hogs with binoculars and local knowledge of where they might be feeding and bedding down -- or fair chase -- using well-trained dogs to find, flush out, and potentially hold down pigs. During my hunt, I had opportunities to fire at large boars using both methods.Catch 'Em offered as many as two morning hunts and one evening hunt for me to get a pig. As a novice, it took me all three times, but Jasen and his assistant, Ron Stone (who is also a fishing guide) never lost enthusiasm, and I'm pretty sure they stayed out longer and worked harder because they were so determined for me to have a successful first hunt. However, they were very clear in their understanding of the law, and had a firm set of ethics around hunting and conservation in general, so I felt comfortable that we were always doing the right thing from a variety of different perspectives. Bear hunting is Jasen's primary guiding business, and apparently his favorite type of hunt, but you'd never know it by the way he threw himself into my pig hunt. It's clear he just loves hunting, and teaching new people.Obviously, much of the preparation for a hunt like this falls on you: taking the hunters safety class, learning to handle firearms safely and accurately, getting all your documents in order (I bought two pig tags, and was glad I did because I used them both), and being prepared to run full-speed through ankle-deep mud in head-high tule marshes. Finding a good hunting guide is definitely chief among those set of preparations, and Catch 'Em totally delivered for me.

Posted by ewilhelm 9 years ago


First Woodworking Project as Wedding Gift - Many questions on desk making!

I know this is a long post but I would be grateful to any of you for being willing to read it. So I am going to be married soon and moving into my first real adult apartment.  As a wedding gift to my new wife I want to make us a really neat computer table setup.  We have a room laid out as an office for the two of us so I wanted to try and make a large desk that would run along three walls in a giant U.  I am planning to make it modular in the sense that it will actually be 3 straight desks plus 2 corner units and each can work independently of the others.  She is a huge steampunk fan so I want to use pipe as the structure  that I paint a brass color and then make a wood a nice dark cherry color. While there are some great plans on pipe desks I have a few questions. 1. Most of the desks I see are MDF/Ply + pipe.  Is this strong enough to use as a desk for crafts, art, and to hold several monitors all at once?  I am sure the pipe is but I am concerned about the ply or mdf bowing.  If I use normal wood planks to reinforce the bottom will that allow it to remain more sturdy? 2. How hard is it to disassemble these? We plan on moving many times in our life and I'd like to build a design that not only can break down into the 5 separate desks but can actually be disassembled.  I hear MDF/Plywood doesn't like taking screws more than once.  If I screw the table-top into the frame using screws and flanges is that a - do it once and it is done sort of thing or can I unscrew them to move the desktop without ruining the top? 3. Assuming trying to rescrew it together would ruin the table I had the idea of creating a frame with wood blocks screwed into the flanges that had been given raised pegs - probably carved out of the wood.  The desktops would then have fitted holes carved into them - assuming I use a thick frame underneath the ply like 2/4 lumber - so that I can just lay the desktop on the pegs and weight would hold it in place.  My question is whether or not this has the same strength as screwing the  desktop directly to the frame.  Assuming the holes and pegs are well-fitted and near flush would I get enough strength for a sturdy table? 4. I've been really fascinated with the planked wood tables I've seen on here.  It seems easy enough to build a solid wood underframe and then cut plywood planks and screw them to the frame.  My only question is for corner units.  Most modern corner desks are big pieces of MDF that have been shaped.  Assuming my corner piece is straightforward - just a square table with one corner loped off - how hard would it be to create a corner desk with a planked top?  Could I do it with just a jigsaw?   5. I've noticed quite a few of the plans use aluminum pipes and Kee Lite or Kee Klamp fittings.  These seem rather expensive, and if I am doing a cheap MDF top I want to know if there is a cheaper metal alternative that still has good structural capacity.  These are desk tops for computers - maybe 120-200 lb load limit maximum for the entire desk.  Could I use plumping pipe?  Are there cheaper fittings than Kee Lite that are still easy to disassemble when I want to move? Thanks in advance for any answers!

Posted by mduhamel 7 years ago


Wood gasifiers and safety - Carbon Monoxide poisoning - hospital

Sorry if it is in the wrong section of the forum. If it can be moved to a better place then do so. This is a quick mention to anyone that is playing around with any burners such as:    wood gas generator    bio-gas    wood gasifier    'hobo' stove I am not severely concerned but it did happen, I think it needs a mention, as it is for everyone's safety. After playing with wood gas and attempting methanol creation from a small gasifier unit for a few weeks, I had started to realize that each day I had a most annoying headache / migrane in my frontal area of my brain / head. They ended up getting so bad that my body could not tolerate them anymore and started to go into shock, causing a rather painful, endless throwing up session for many hours each time even.  It came to a point where after 3 weeks of playing with a bio-gas generator for about 4 hours a day had started to lead me into temporary blindness an hour and a half at a time. This was when I was concerned as I could not read any more instructables :( After a quick jot to the local doctors, I explained what I had been up to and I was correct. I had given myself the rather classic, and very close to death, carbon-monoxide poisoning where my doctor insisted I go to emergency at the hospital ( 2 hours away ) immediately and have someone else drive me. Pretty much equivalent to staying inside a garage with your car running for 5 hours, all the doors closed. I was very close to severe carbon monoxide poisoning and death.  At the hospital, blood was taken, analysed, and they had discovered large traces of C02 that they attempted to flush with some oxygen, but this only works to a point and they mentioned that nothing else could be done apart from telling me not to use or be near any smoke sources for at least 3 weeks and I should recover fine. I am still playing with my wood gas generators, and attempting to make methanol, but these days, after 3 days ago, I take further safety precautions to make sure it wont happen again. Such as: ventilation / exhaust fan ( I WAS OUTSIDE WHEN I WAS POISONED! DONT TAKE THIS LIGHTLY! ) keep a distance, find a better way to ignite / extinguish the burner keep your face and body out of the smoke dont watch the flames / smoke from above for any longer than 2 seconds do not taunt the Criosote by-product of wood. I am not sure which is more toxic. The smoke or this.   ( criosote / bio-crude, whatever you want to call it, it is the condensate of the burner unit containing more chemicals, very stinky) do not store criosote indoors withough a sealable container ( the smell likes to soak into things, like my kitchen ) if you know what you are doing, keep oxygen tank nearby use all protective clothing and masks, etc. There was a small arrogance in my head when playing with these units. And that is simply that I was thinking 'it is just smoke'. Wood gas generators are generating a much more toxic smoke than just sitting around your camping fire and should not be considered to be something to play with, without proper valves, pipes, burn off points etc. It contains on some scale: carbon-monoxide, methane, acids ( acetic ), tar and many other defects that will cause you issues if you are not careful. Keep it safe guys, this was a rather difficult one for explination, but I do not want someone other than me to be in that same sickness / position as I was with the poisoning, as it is the most painful experience I had yet had.  Worse than me hitting a tree head on at 80km/h. Worse than falling 2 stories off a cliff onto rocks. Worse than being hit by a car and thrown over it's windscreen. Worse than the feeling of an unsuccessful home made rocket launch. All of these above I have had happen to me, and the poisoning was by far the worst and I was scared more for my life than than any above accidents. It is not a very nice feeling, it is a deathly, sickly, useless feeling, blindness is not far away from death if found in this situation. Oxygen / fresh air is the only thing to help you if poisoned, even if in hospital. Keep it safe guys. If you want me to write up a full on poster on wood-gas / wood-heater safety I can or even just a propper write - up on general safety with this smoke and the wood gas units etc. Ask please and I will. Hospital staff will most likely give you 'items of interest' for instructables if you just ask them too. I have a heap of things from a stethoscope to vials to 'red dots' for homemade ECG machines. They tend to like crazies like me that make weird stuffs .. i hope ive gotten the point across anyway.   

Posted by AtomRat 6 years ago


Rebuilding NordicTrack ski machine drive rollers

Many people still buy and use a NordicTrack Ski Machine, although these machines are not as popular as they once were. I have talked to people who say they just plain wore out a ski machine. The part that wears is the one-way clutch inside the drive rollers. NordicTrack makes the one-way clutch sound very mysterious. In reality it is a one-way needle bearing and is available from Amazon or locally from a good bearing shop. The internal diameter of the one-way needle bearing used in my machine (Challenger, similar to a 303) is 5/8 inch. The outer diameter is 7/8 inch. The width of the one-way needle bearing from end to end is 5/8 inch. I originally had hopes of being able to install new one-way needle bearings, myself; but, they together with the bronze sleeve bearings on either side of the one-way needle bearing inside each drive roller are pressed into place. Pressing bearings is not a job for the average home tinkerer but requires a bearing press capable of exerting tons of pressure in a very precise manner. You can often have a local machine shop press the bearings in your machine's drive rollers. Or, you can send them away to Nordic Track Guy and have them rebuilt for about $33 with a one week turnaround. The core of the rollers really does not wear out, but new rollers are available on the Internet from $65 to $95, depending on the vendor. From what I can find, some models used an alternate size. Check to be certain you order the correct rollers, if you choose to replace. One of my drive rollers suddenly began to hiccup. It seemed that the clutch did not always release immediately when I pulled my foot forward. Then I noticed a little mush in the response when I began to bring my foot back on the push stroke. Before you rebuild or replace your rollers, try this: Remove one side of your Ski Machine. See the second photo and check the exploded diagram in your manual. Four nuts and two screws, all plainly visible, need to be removed. Slide the washers and the roller off of the top side. The shaft and flywheel can be wiggled out of the other side without removing anything from that side. Remove the washers and the roller from that side, too. Flush the one-way needle bearing by squirting some penetrating oil, like Liquid Wrench, into the bearing. Work it both ways with your smallest finger. Push a facial tissue into the shaft hole in the roller and sop away the penetrating oil and any metallic dust it lifts. Do this several times. Let the rollers air dry. A little lubrication is good. People who comment on lubrication for one-way needle bearings use Tri-Flo (I am not familiar with it.) or they use a little ATF transmission fluid. You want enough to lubricate, but not so much that the bearings slip. (But, see the comments below where the oil impregnated bronze sleeve bearings are supposed to supply enough lubrication for the needle bearings.) Put the rollers back in place on the shaft. Check to be certain they grab on the rearward stroke and release on the forward stroke. Reassemble the machine. Do not forget the washers between the roller and the side board. My machine works again as it should. The day will likely come when this simple fix does not help, and I will need to rebuild or replace the rollers then. But, for now, my rollers have a new lease on life. What follows is for your information. The first photo is of a portion of the back cover of the manual that came with my machine. It shows a cutaway image of the drive roller. The black printing is mine. Notice the three cylinders inside the drive roller. The outer two are bronze sleeve bearings. The center one looks like a roller bearing, but is a one-way needle bearing. A one-way needle bearing is essentially a roller bearing, but the rollers are able to move forward and backward a little in their cage. There is a wedge shape for the axle of each roller that causes the rollers to bind between the bearing cage and the shaft when the rotation is in one direction, but they are free in the other direction. Here is a description of how they work with graphics. This link is for an Instructable about a number of modifications I made to our NordicTrack ski machine, including how it can be stored vertically in a closet. If you do not have a digital monitor for your skier, or need to replace one, here is an Instructable on how to make your own from a digital bicycle speedometer.  Check NordicParts for any parts you need, also Nordic Fitness Ski Machines. Danny at Nordic Fitness Ski Machines has some very nice new rollers for sale.

Posted by Phil B 6 years ago


Something from Nothing: Films on Design & Architecture

If you're interested in Yerba Buena Center for the Arts' TechnoCRAFT exhibition, you might also want to know about the design film series we're hosting this summer.  See below for more information. SOMETHING FROM NOTHING: FILMS ON DESIGN & ARCHITECTURE Sundays, Jul 11 thru Sep 5, 2 pm In conjunction with our TechnoCRAFT gallery exhibition, we present these eight matinee screenings, covering not only design, but architecture, motion graphics and craft. Sun, Jul 11, 2 pm Refrigerator Fetish: Vintage Industrial Design Films We kick off the series with a selection of funny, bizarre, and maybe even educational vintage product design films, from the 1920s forward. Examining the sensuality of the fridge, the rhapsody of the pencil and the mysterious polishing of unknowable objects, this promises to be a one-of-a-kind day at the movies. Presented live by film archivist Dennis Nyback. Sun, Jul 18, 2 pm Citizen Architect: Samuel Mockbee and the Spirit of the Rural Studio By Sam Wainwright Douglas Citizen Architect chronicles the work of the late activist architect Samuel Mockbee, and his radical educational program known as the Rural Studio. The program teaches students about the social responsibilities of architecture and charges them to provide original and inspirational homes and buildings (mostly from salvaged materials) in rural west Alabama, one of the poorest communities in the country (2010, 60 min, digital video). Preceded by the short Robin Hood Gardens (Or Every Brutalist Structure For Itself) by Martin Ginestie (2010, 17 min, digital video) Sun, Jul 25, 2 pm wow+flutter Assembled by onedotzero, the London-based cutting-edge new media group, this compilation program showcases the most progressive and unpredictable work in motion graphics and short-form media. Fresh talent and celebrated masters alike strive to expand, blur and explode traditional notions of what future moving images could be as a playground for creative expression. (2009, 70 min, digital video) Sun, Aug 1, 2 pm The Greening of Southie By Ian Cheney This incisive new documentary is set in the traditionally Irish-American working-class neighborhood of South Boston, where a new kind of building is taking shape. From wheatboard cabinetry to recycled steel, bamboo flooring to dual-flush toilets, the Macallen building is a leader in the emerging field of environmentally friendly design. But Boston's steel-toed union workers aren't sure they like it. And when things start to go wrong, the young development team gets a little more than they bargained for. A film about building the city of tomorrow…today. (2008, 72 min, digital video) Sun, Aug 15, 2 pm Infinite Space: The Architecture of John Lautner By Murray Grigor John Lautner was the Southern California architect. Even if his name isn’t familiar, you have likely seen pictures of some of his most famous works, such as the space-age “Chemosphere,” the octagonal house on a hill, which has become a Los Angeles landmark. Lautner believed that the purpose of architecture is to create timeless, free, joyous spaces for all activities in life. Infinite Space traces the lifelong quest of a man to create “architecture that has no beginning and no end.” (2009, 90 min, digital video) Sun, Aug 22, 2 pm Rem Koolhaas: A Kind of Architect By Markus Heidingsfelder and Min Tesch Rarely has an architect caused as much sensation outside of the architecture community as Rem Koolhaas. His outstanding creations such as the Dutch Embassy in Berlin, the Seattle Library, and the Casa da Musica concert hall in Porto are working examples of his visionary theories about architecture and urban society. An engaging portrait of the man and his work, the film takes us to the heart of his ideas. Koolhaas has stated "it's the only film about me that I have liked." (2008, 97 min, digital video) Sun, Aug 29, 2 pm The Visual Language of Herbert Matter By Reto Caduff SPECIAL SNEAK PREVIEW! A revealing look at the life story of a highly influential mid-century modern design master. Known as a quintessential designer's designer, Swiss-born Herbert Matter is largely credited with expanding the use of photography as a design tool and bringing the semantics of fine art into the realm of applied arts. Through never-before-seen footage, personal photography and stunning graphic design, the film explores the social and cultural impact of his personal visual language that influenced a generation of designers and artists. (2010, digital video) Sun, Sep 5, 2 pm Handmade Nation By Faythe Levine This charmingly low-fi film documents the contemporary crafting community. These artists, crafters and designers marry historical techniques, punk and D.I.Y ethos while being influenced by traditional handiwork, modern aesthetics, and politics. (2009, 65 min, digital video) Where: Something from Nothing: Films on Design & Architecture – 701 Mission St., San Francisco, CA 94103 – YBCA Screening Room Public Info: 415-978-2787 or ybca.org $8 regular; $6 students, seniors, teachers & YBCA members Enjoy same-day gallery admission for all YBCA presented films!

Posted by YBCA 8 years ago


The more natural way of cleaning things...

At my workplace we basically have a specific cleaner or cleaning product for every task you can think of. From glass over stainless to plastics and desinfectants for lots of different surfaces. After a quick look into my cleaining cabinet at home I started to wonder if I am doing something wrong as I only have a few cleaning things for my use. Asking my friends also showed they have a big bunch of cleaning chemicals, plus the bottle of bleach that everyone down here has. So I though: Your grandma only had a few cleaning products and you learned most of things you need to clean from her. Considering I grew up healthy I guess she must have done something right.... Let's clean up with the cleaning myths, shall we? 1. What cleaning chemicals do you have? For quite a few people the list would start something like this: Dishwashing liquid, window, cleaner, bathroom cleaner, soap scum remover, floor cleaner, oven cleaner, several desinfectants.... If that is true for you too than we might be on to something already. 2. What cleaning chemicals do I really need? This is a good question as everyone is a bit different but I assume a healthy household here. Of course we need certain things to clean our various surfaces properly but it is far less than waht you have been told by the TV commercials.... These days we like to think if there is a special cleaner for something then of course we have to use it to clean properly. Unless you have trades people walking through with their wet dogs several times a day and see dust storms at least twice a week you really only need a few things. So let's get to the basics: 3. Old style cleaning and what you need for it - really the only stuff required to keep all clean and sanitised. a) Methylated spirit b) Clear ammonia - cloudy ammonia works too but be aware that the added soap can be a problem that leaves streakes c) Hydrogen peroxide - pool grade to be cheap in the long run d) Orange oil - citrus oil works great too if you prefer a different smell e) Soap - just basic soap, these stinky, slightly yellow and hard bricks - no fancy smelly soap ;) f) Several cleaning brushes but you should already have those g) Windows cleaning tools - the basic microfibre cloth and squeegee will do h) Several microfibre cloths - bigger ones for floors and walls, smaller for windows and the rest I) Yesterdays newspaper j) Baking soda With those few things we have everything to clean whatever comes up and if bought in bulk comes down to a few cents per bottle compared to a few dollars when you buy all the stuff you don't need. Lets figure out what the stuff does and how to use it: 4. Mixing and what to use it for.... The alcohol is a really good remover for everything greasy and also desinfects the surfaces. A quick spray and wipe on your bench is all that you need to remove oily residue or the mess from the kids. Mixed with a bit of soap and water (about 50-50) also removes sticky stuff like jam or syrup. If we use about 50ml of alcohol, 50ml of clear ammonia and 900ml of water we get one liter of really good window cleaner. The modern way is to use microfibre for the cleaning and a squeegee to get it dry, the old way just uses a cloth and then the window is "polished" with some old newspaper. The black ink reacts with the alcohol and form a mild abrasive while the paper soaks up the moisture, the result is a prefectly clean window in under 3 minutes. Orange oil is not only a powerful degreaser but also lifts old dirt or even glue residue. Used directly it will get rid of the remains from sticky tape, stickers and everything that other cleaners fails to get off - smoth surface and non soaking of course. 50ml of it with 50ml of ammonia and 100ml of alcohol per bucket makes a good florr cleaner and your house smells nice when done. Works best if you can use a microfibre cloth or floor wiper to dry the surface with it. In the kitchen we can find a lot of surfaces that are greasy and we already covered that bit, so lets get to the though stuff. The kitchen sink can become dull looking although it is not scratched. This is due to hard water, food residue, soap and other things. Best is of course to wipe it and dry it after use but who really does this every day? A pot scrubbing pad with some baking soda on it does the trick here. Make the pad nly moist and sprinkle the baking soda on it. Rub over the stainless and if too dry add a few drops of water. Once done rinse off and enjoy the difference. For hard to clean or badly turtured sinks you can try a ball of aluminium foil and coke - use it like a polish. The oven is often our worst nightmare. The cooktop is not far behind. But even here we can have a chance to clean without too much hard work or bad chemicals. Of course the best way is to prevent these spills and boil overs ;) For the cooktop some hot water and baking soda will soften the baked on stuff. Simply remove what you can with the hot water and then sprinkle the surface with baking soda. Cover all with the paper towels and if not wet enough add a bit more hot water so all shets are soaked. Leave ove night and wipe clean the next day. The oven is a bit of a problem once the side and back wall are filthy. If baking soda with a pot scrubber won't do the trick get some of these steel pads with soap in it. The soap in them is special in terms that you only need a little bit of water to remove almost anything with them - and they won't scrath enamelled surfaces. On the bottom we often have badly burnt in things that are next to impossible to fully remove. I suggest to cover the same way as the cooktop but also to add some orange oil. Just make a thick paste of baking soda and orange oil and wrok it into the soiled surface. Cover with wet paper towels and leave over night. Now you don't want to flood your oven, so that means you need to use a sponge or thick cloth that is big enough to wipe off the surfaces you soaked the day before. As the orange oil really is oil it pays off to use some alcohol in the cleaning water to get rid of the oil and grease a bit easier. Don't expect to see a clean and shiny surface after one treatment if the oven was badly misused, you might have to repeat the procedure a few times. If in doubt use the soapy steel pads for last clean and before soaking over night again. Three to four treatments are usually enough to clean even the worst disaster that can happen in an oven unless you baked it in for months... 5. Desinfecting and mouldy spots.... As said, the methylated spirit is basically just pure alcohol and kill almost anything that might harm you. But sometimes that just is not enough. And who really wants to spend an hour or longer to clean some mouldy spots in the shower or try to cover the smell by spraying room freshener? As a lst resort for everything I use Hydrogen Peroxide. The supermarket grade is only 3% and usually badly overpriced, so I suggest to get a small canister of pool grade peroxide. Do yourself a favour and ask them to install a tap on it - you don't want to do it yourself unless you already know how bad pool grade peroxide is! For your own safety when handling it I strongly recommend wearing long rubber gloves, nitrile is better but please no latex as it could start to burn when getting in contact with the peroxide. For high grade desinfecting or the removal of mouldy areas I recommend to dilute 1:5, one part of peroxide to 5 parts of water. Only for the mould removal on tiled, plastic, glass or metal surfaces you can use the peroxide pure from the container - but please add face protection when cleaning! Some spray bottles work with peroxide some just start leaking badly, if you want try an old bottle of chlorine based cleaner after really flushing everything out. The peroxide breaks down any organic material it comes into contact with, so not just the mould you want to remove but also your skin or eyes if you allow contact. On the skin you see white areas after contact and they won't go away until all the oxygen in the skin is gone that was left by the peroxide. If you act too late it means you might loose some skin flakes. The sure sign of overlook exposure on your skin is a burning sensation in the area - this only happens when the amount was big enough or your clothes got soaked. On your surfaces to clean you will notice bubbles forming quite quickly - this mean the peroxide is reacting with something, usually organic material. Let it bubble... Once it stops bubbling the surface is either sterile or the peroxide is used up, if it bubbles when adding fresh peroxide onto it then there is still crap left ;) It really helps to brush off the surface after each treatment as a lot of loose material will be flushed out when rinsing off. Once it looks and smells clean again it usually means it is clean :) 6. Special case: Wood... Be it wooden floorboards, furniture or just your chopping board - always try what the manufacturer recommends first! Untreated wood should never be cleaned with anything wet! Sealed wood, like floorboards or things with varnish on it to make it water proof can be cleaned the same way as mentioned above - but I would leave out the ammonia as some wood treatments simply won't tolerate it and might go dull instead of returning nice and shiny - spot testing required if you think you have to use ammonia as well! Orange oil itself makes a great furniture cleaner if the surface is smooth and sealed, but if it is not it means the oil soaks into the wood together with the stuff you want to clean off! It also takes off several paints and types of varnish if you work it hard enough and give it some time, so avoid this and be quick instead of forgetting to finnish the job ;) Always try to wet the surface as little as possible and wipe fully dry as soon as possible! Ok, good start but what is the real benefit? For me the actual benefit is that I know what I am using and exposing myself to. Just reading what is in most cleaning products we find at the supermarket makes me want to clean again after using them, just to remove their residues... I admit it might take some time to get used to mixing and just having a few ingredients for the cleaning but it does work great. Especially if you or your kids are already sensitive to certain chemicals or just of poor health in general you might see the benefit quite quickly. Some people really don't like the smell of ammonia but unless you are sensitive to it there is nothing to worry when using the household grade as we always dilute it down massively anyway. A good way to avoid the worst stink is by mixing it outside with the wind from behind. I won't say that certain commercial products are bad, harmful or not good enough for the job. Some are actually worth to have in some cases but I just say it is better to only have a hand full of chemicals that are not too bad instead of an endless list of things were we don't even know what's inside. For me the best is your surprise when it actually works better than you expected and report your findings here.

Posted by Downunder35m 1 year ago


HOW TO SHOW DYNAMIC GPS DATA AND AUTO REFRESH PAGE ON WEB BROWSER ?

Hello, I'm using ESP8266 WIFI module and GPS module. I have connected to ARDUINO UNO R3 board to read the GPS coordinates and transmit them to webpage using ESP8266 WiFi module connected to router. In my code the page change only when I press F5 (refresh) , and so I can see the change of Coordinates. I want to see the changing results dynamically with out refreshing the webpage. what to I need to do /change in order that it will change automatically? please check my code here or in the attachment  and suggest me the changes. Thanks in advance. CODE: // code starts #include #include SoftwareSerial Serial1(2,3);     //   ESP8266 RX pin 2, TX pin 3. SoftwareSerial gps(11, 10);       //   GPS RX pin 10, TX pin 11.   boolean No_IP=false; String IP=""; String webpage=""; int i=0,k=0; int  gps_status=0; String name=" Name: XXXXXXXX ";   //22 String date="DATE: DD MM YYYY";     //21 String number=" Vehicle No.: ABC 0000";//29 String cordinat="Coordinates:";          //17 String latitude=""; String logitude="";                       String gpsString=""; char *test="$GPGGA"; void check4IP(int t1) {   int t2=millis();   while(t2+t1>millis())   {     while(Serial1.available()>0)     {       if(Serial1.find("WIFI GOT IP"))       {         No_IP=true;       }     }   } } void get_ip() {   IP="";   char ch=0;   while(1)   {     Serial1.println("AT+CIFSR");     while(Serial1.available()>0)     {       if(Serial1.find("STAIP,"))       {         delay(1000);         Serial.print("IP Address:");         while(Serial1.available()>0)         {           ch=Serial1.read();           if(ch=='+')           break;           IP+=ch;         }       }       if(ch=='+')       break;     }     if(ch=='+')     break;     delay(1000);   }   Serial.print(IP);   Serial.print("Port:");   Serial.println(80);   delay(1000); } void connect_wifi(String cmd, int t) {   int temp=0,i=0;   while(1)   {     Serial.println(cmd);     Serial1.println(cmd);     while(Serial1.available()>0)     {       if(Serial1.find("OK"))       {       i=8;       }     }     delay(t);     if(i>5)     break;     i++;   }   if(i==8)   {     Serial.println("OK");   }   else   {   Serial.println("Error");   }   delay(1000); } void setup() {   Serial1.begin(9600);   Serial.begin(9600);   delay(1000);   connect_wifi("AT",1000);   connect_wifi("AT+CWMODE=3",1000);   connect_wifi("AT+CWQAP",1000);    connect_wifi("AT+RST",5000);   check4IP(5000);   if(!No_IP)       {         Serial.println("Connecting Wifi....");         connect_wifi("AT+CWJAP=\"MountPointTech\",\"MpTl2013\"",7000);   //AT+CWJAP="wifi_username","wifi_password"       }       else         {         }       Serial.println("Wifi Connected");       get_ip();       delay(2000);       connect_wifi("AT+CIPMUX=1",100);       connect_wifi("AT+CIPSERVER=1,80",100);       Serial1.end();       Serial.println("Waiting For GPS");       Serial.println("     Signal    ");       delay(2000);       gps.begin(9600);       get_gps();       show_coordinate();       gps.end();       Serial1.begin(9600);       delay(2000);      Serial.println("GPS is Ready");       delay(1000);       Serial.println("System Ready.."); } void loop() {   k=0;   Serial.println("Please Refresh Ur Page");   while(k<1000)   {     k++;    while(Serial1.available())    {     if(Serial1.find("0,CONNECT"))     {       Serial1.end();         gps.begin(9600);       get_gps();       gps.end();       Serial1.begin(9600);       Serial1.flush();       Serial.println("Start Printing");       Send();       show_coordinate();       Serial.println("Done Printing");       delay(5000);       //delay(1000);       k=1200;       break;     }   }   delay(1); } } void gpsEvent() {   gpsString="";   while(1)   {    while (gps.available()>0)                //Serial incoming data from GPS    {     char inChar = (char)gps.read();      gpsString+= inChar;                    //store incoming data from GPS to temporary string str[]      i++;      if (i < 7)                           {       if(gpsString[i-1] != test[i-1])       //check for right string       {         i=0;         gpsString="";       }      }     if(inChar=='\r')     {      if(i>65)      {        gps_status=1;        break;      }      else      {        i=0;      }     }   }    if(gps_status)     break;   } } void get_gps() {    gps_status=0;    int x=0;    while(gps_status==0)    {     gpsEvent();     int str_lenth=i;     latitude="";     logitude="";     coordinate2dec();         i=0;x=0;     str_lenth=0;    } } void show_coordinate() {         Serial.print("Latitude:");     Serial.println(latitude);     Serial.print("Longitude:");     Serial.println(logitude); } void coordinate2dec() {         //j=0;     String lat_degree="";     for(i=18;i<20;i++)          //extract latitude from string       lat_degree+=gpsString;         String lat_minut="";     for(i=20;i<28;i++)       lat_minut+=gpsString;         String long_degree="";     for(i=30;i<33;i++)          //extract longitude from string       long_degree+=gpsString;           String long_minut="";     for(i=33;i<41;i++)       long_minut+=gpsString;            float minut= lat_minut.toFloat();      minut=minut/60;      float degree=lat_degree.toFloat();      latitude=degree+minut;           minut= long_minut.toFloat();      minut=minut/60;      degree=long_degree.toFloat();      logitude=degree+minut; } void Send() {            webpage = "Welcome to MountPoint Technologies Pvt Ltd";       webpage+=name;       webpage+=date;       webpage+=number;       webpage+=cordinat;       webpage+="Latitude:";       webpage+=latitude;       webpage+="";       webpage+="Longitude:";       webpage+=logitude;       webpage+="";       webpage+= "       webpage+=latitude;       webpage+='+';              //28.612953, 77.231545   //28.612953,77.2293563       webpage+=logitude;       webpage+="\">Click Here for google map ";       sendwebdata();       webpage="";        while(1)          {       Serial.println("AT+CIPCLOSE=0");       Serial1.println("AT+CIPCLOSE=0");       while(Serial1.available())       {         //Serial.print(Serial1.read());         if(Serial1.find("0,CLOSE"))         {           return;         }       }       delay(500);       i++;       if(i>5)       {         i=0;       }       if(i==0)       break;      } } void sendwebdata() {      i=0;      while(1)      {       unsigned int l=webpage.length();       Serial1.print("AT+CIPSEND=0,");       Serial1.println(l+2);       Serial.println(l+2);       Serial.println(webpage);       Serial1.println(webpage);       while(Serial1.available())       {         if(Serial1.find("OK"))         {          return;         }       }             i++;       if(i>5)         i=0;         if(i==0)         break;       delay(200);      } } // end of code.

Posted by shivendrareddy 1 year ago