How Often do you use heat shrink?

Just curious, I find that I use a lot of heat shrink when wiring. Its just so handy, I used to get through a lot of electric tape but heat shrink it easy & simple.

Posted by Antexter 10 years ago



Thermodynamics

Is it possible to take a low heat spread over a large area and convert it into a high heat in a small area? For example a normal fireplace can't melt cast iron, but 2 or three create enough energy. Could you concentrate that? (thats just an example, I have a much more brilliant plan) Thanks

Posted by LinuxH4x0r 10 years ago


how to make electricity from temperture difference

Hi, One day I saw on Discovery a guy using a local stream to make electricity. really cool, he attached a light bulb to it and put that into layers of stone. by doing so, the stone heated and so he was able to cook on it. Basically what I am asking is, how can you make electricity from the local stream by means of temperature difference with the air temperature. TXS!!!

Posted by DELETED_amulder1 6 years ago


Coldheat where to get.

I read about Coldheat an alternative to soldering and i was wondering if i can get it in a store like walmart, superstore, the source by circuit city or something like that. I don't like to ordering things off the internet so yeah.

Posted by Alcreion 10 years ago


PYROGRAPHIC TOOL HEAT REGULATOR

How Can I make a Homemade pyrographic heat regulator using salvaged parts??

Posted by smallludwig2 10 years ago


Heat pad

Has anyone made a Heat pad before?  I want to build one for an out door cat house.  Maybe I can just use a battery operated light bulb at a high Watt.

Posted by cnelson17 6 years ago


HEAT SEAL or vacuum seal

Been looking all over the net for help on this, thought maybe someone here might be able to help. I need to mock up a DVD package for a DESIGN class and wanted to do something based off the Special Edition SAW DVD case in which a red liquid was trapped floating between to layers of transparent, flexible plastic. In this space it could be moved by pushing it through the plastic. So does anyone know a way i could accomplish this on my own? Vacuum sealing? Heat sealing?

Posted by 333Design 10 years ago


Conductivity of heat through copper?

I have a piece of flat copper, 150 mm X 30 mm X 1mm thick. I put 50 watts onto one (150 mm) end, how much arrives at the other? so: Surface area: .00015 m2 Distance: .03 m thermal conductivity copper: 400 W.m-1.K-1

Posted by SolarFlower_org 8 years ago


Mirror Heater/Demister?

Hi, I need some advice on how to wire up a homemade mirror heater or demister. I have an old toaster which I have gutted to get the heating elements. I also have a few old wallwarts to power the thing. Is using these wires the right thing to use as a heat source? It doesn't have to get hot, just slightly warm. What kind of circuitry will I need to warm up the wire? I also got some modelling latex to embed this wires in to make a heating "pad" for the mirror and to insulate it. Is there a better material I can enclose the elements in. Thanks.

Posted by Armbie 10 years ago


Heat sink mystery

While harvesting parts from a tiny refrigerator, I found something that I don't understand. There was a heat sink about 6 inches square on the back with a 12v fan attached. Underneath this arrangement was a smaller heat sink about 3 inches square and sandwiched between the two was an aluminum block, also 3 inches square and about 1/2 inch thick. Between the block and the large unit is what appears to be a ceramic tile about 2 inches square, seperated from the larger sink with a thin layer of white foam. This tile is glued very securely to the back of the larger heat sink. What puzzles me are the two wires running from a PCB to the ceramic tile. They disappear into the foam but I can't tell what they connect to. A heat sensor that is attached to the large sink, perhaps? There was a twist knob inside the unit that allowed you to adjust temperature from Min to Max. I don't want to pry off the tile just yet in case this might be something useful in its current condition. This refrigerator is probably more of an ice chest than anything, else. There are no coils on the back and no compressor. The only motor is what drove the fan. There is a drip pan on the back and what looks like a plastic hose connection but I don't know if this tube let water in or out. The whole refrigerator is only about 2 feet cubed. It was powered by a standard grounded AC cord. How did this thing cool? And what do those mysterious wires under the ceramic tile serve?

Posted by Boy Genius 6 years ago


Does anyone know how to make a kettle corn popper?

Hi... Went to a fair and got my first smell of kettlecorn popping and thought about making my own, but alas, I have no talent! Anybody have any idea on how to make a heated kettle pot to make sweet popcorn? Thanks!!!

Posted by phenixa 10 years ago


9 volt Battery getting very hot, why?

I made a distortion pedal for a guitar. It works fine. But if I leave the 9v battery in there for too long, it starts to get extremely hot.  Why is that? And what can I do to prevent that from happening? Thanks for your help.

Posted by Grizzly_Bear 6 years ago


Squishy plastic lava thing

Remember these squishy things? You got them cheap at toy stores and were always suspicious of them breaking and spilling their noxious contents all over you and your family (at least, that is what I worried about as a kid.) I think I had a cd case with purple blobs of liquid. Anyway, I want to try making something like that, though I haven't done anything like it before. I suppose I need your help with ideas for 1. what would be a decent liquid filling that wouldn't degrade or get moldy or fade somehow 2. how I would go about sealing the edges in a aesthetically pleasing manner. I suppose there is heat sealing, and glues that bond plastics? And...I guess I would not be able to make very complex shapes?? 

Posted by Clabber Goil 6 years ago


Dryer box

I'm been looking for instructions on making a box to dry  a 8.5" x 11" piece of "film". I can make the box, it's the electronics part I can't figure out.  My idea is that a small heater on one end of the box, and a small exhaust fan on the other end will be sufficient to dry my film.  Does this make sense?

Posted by jrav 8 years ago


Manipulating temperature in garment steamer

 I have a garment steamer. As a school project, I need to do an innovation where I need to add temperature regulator features. I have read that irons use thermostat to control the temperature, how do i install a thermostat in the steamer or is there other ways to regulate the temperature. By the temperature regulator, i should be able to produce the right amount of steam at the right temperature for each fabric.

Posted by WafiqahK 1 year ago


New Light Fitting Smells Of Fish When Hot

Hi, I have just fitted a new light fitting. After it gets hot (60 Watt filament bulb) The room smells of fish. I believe that the smell is coming from the hot plastic, probably from the plastic that holds the shade in place. I don't want to reduce the wattage, The label on the connector says it is rated for 100 Watts. How can I get rid of the fish smell? Thanks

Posted by anon_private 3 years ago


Practical considerations when using transformer

Hi everybody! I basically love doing LED experiments and i was replacing many of the night lamps and stuff with simple LED circuits i made. Now i have few questions: 1) I generally use transformers to power them (230v/12v). Now apart from primary and secondary voltages and currents, are there any other ratings which i should consider? 2) I have made a portable night lamp with blue LED's. It has 4 arms in parallel and each arm consists of 3 LED's in series. All the arms are connected finally to a single 100 ohm resistor. Now as at most the whole setup might draw about 50mA of current. I had a transformer rated for about  500mA of secondary current, and so i used it with the setup. Will i have any issues using this? (Although i am sure i won't, but just in case anyway) 3)  Also, the transformer gets hot. How much temperature is in safe operating zone? The setup i used, after an hour, got pretty hot. I could barely hold it for a few seconds and i had to let go. Is it okay if it gets that hot?

Posted by charmquark 5 years ago


Vacuum forming heat source

Hi! I am planning to build a vacuum forming machine that does not use a seperate oven to heat the plastic. For my 3D printing hobby I have come across many heated beds, also some on 230v. Could something like this (https://www.ebay.com/itm/30X30CM-750W-220V-Silicone-Heater-3D-Printer-Heated-Bed-Pad-30cm-Thermistor/401257671771?hash=item5d6cd22c5b:g:iVEAAOSwx6pYrp70) with a heat sink be used for such an application? Thanks!

Posted by ttreurniet 10 months ago


Heat gun mod question

I am not an electrician but I like to tinker. I am just getting started with DIY type electronics kits and I have decent soldering skills. I cant say I am an expert at reading prints, but I can usually build a simple schmatic. I wish to disassemble a heat gun for parts and add in a potentiometer to vary the heat, another potentiometer to control the airflow, and a digital temperature probe with temp display. I am attempting to build a heat generating device with precise control of the temperature and airflow. I dont really want to spend $150 on a fancy LED digital display heat gun with variable heat dial, so this is my next option and potentially a heck of a lot more fun. Initially I just want to get the variable heat and airflow control(potentiometers) hooked up, and if it will be easy enough I can later install the temp display. I could always just use a cheap "laser" temp probe to check the temp and ensure it is fairly stable. The heat gun I am looking at is a piece of junk and it only has 2 temp settings. How easy is it to install a potentiometer for varying the heat and one for the airflow? I assume I can just install the one for heat control inline after the circuit that sets the maximum heat level and dial in the temp I want. As for the airflow control I assume I could do the same thing, but instead put it before the power lead feeding the fan. I am not an electrical engineer so I want to make sure this will work first before I fry my cheapo $20 heat gun. Would it be bettter to just gut the entire thing and work with the naked parts and install my own circuit to control and display the temp or could I keep the basic unit intact and mod from there? Any ideas, or a basic schematic that would satisfy this requirement would be greatly appreciated.

Posted by RokGoblin 9 years ago


Looking for Heat Resistant Flexible Material

I am trying to find a heat resistant material that is flexible... I am trying to make a pull down shade to attach to a tension rod, that will make my home more energy efficient... This means It will also need to be thin enough to roll up into a small roll... It needs to be reflective or at least block out all the sun... I work nights and sleep through the day, and have trouble sleeping when the sun gets through...

Posted by BadBobbo 10 years ago


Burning barrel in the pool

Questions for you scientific types. Would this work: I have a 3,000 gallon inground pool and no heater. If I took a barrel, stuck it in the shallow end just a half inch above being totally submerged, and lit a fire inside it it would it work to heat the water around it and eventually heat up the pool?

Posted by jakeotron 10 years ago


Heating Help!

So my new  major has me in a machine shop that is at my disposal. I have made a few shift knobs but with living in the Northeast it can get cold in the winter months.   I want to heat the knobs, which means finding something that is... - Small enough to fit inside a roughly 1" dia cylinder, depth minimal. - Quickly heat the knob - But not over heat it - Run on a 12v standard supply - Minimal cost I have considered trying to find a "Heating Element" but am unable to find such in a size I need and within a price I want. Maybe a soldering Iron element? I tried "Peltier" but they all are over-sized and debate the conflicting effects of hot and cold. However if figured out I could flip it for summer. I debated running a resistor/other electronic component with just enough power to cause it to heat up, but am worried about it breaking. I wanted to do a high power light bulb, but don't see that working as well as I plan. So I am kinda at a loss...if you have a specific item you can link me to let me see it, or just let me know of an item I can use.

Posted by scubaru 7 years ago


Thermal Cooling and Heating

It is very possible and it is in use today by using Thermal Cooling and Heating from the earth. Performed by using a 6" well at least 100' deep, with thermal tubing inserted into the well carrying the liquid to be cooled/heated. Process is done by a circulating pump in the interior unit - through the coil - sending back through the well system and returning. It starts out from the main unit circ pump.......through the coils.......out to the "down tube" into the 6" well pipe, a sharp 180* turn back up the system returning to the circ pump. Such a system is used by many facilities to Air Condition or heat rooms of about 15' x 15' or so. I have even seen a system that utilized creek water as the "cooler" of the tubing on a circ pump system. That one really was cool, about 52 degrees. Have you heard of these systems or seen something like it or close?

Posted by spa31rky 8 years ago


HEAT SEALERS

Hi guys, gals and robots of course I am having trouble finding out what type of sealer and the required wattage needed to weld high quality annexe matting which is about 3mm thick x 2 - 6mm all up. It is 98% nylon. I need something with about 600mm long jaws and variable heat and probably 6mm weld width? I would like to make my own as well, quite handy with electrics and mechanical stuff, live in Australia with 240v Kind Regards Build Stuff

Posted by Build Stuff 4 years ago


Heating HDPE and Safety

Hi, I have a light and am bothered by the glare below the shade. I have cut a piece of HDPE from a plastic milk bottle and have slipped the section below the bottom of the bulb (60 Watt  - 75 Watt bulbs) ca. 1 inch below, and the bottom of the  lamp shade.. There are gaps between the plastic and shade to allow heat dispersal. I have noticed that the HDPE gets quite warm, but looks and feels alright. I am concerned about any possible toxic emissions, ethylene gas (no smell) etc. Can anyone advise regarding safety? Thanks

Posted by anon_private 4 years ago


When developing circuits with LEDs in them, pay attention to what is near them in the circuit....

Any heat generated can significantly shorten the life of the LED(s):  In the following blog, this is known as a Weak Link.

Posted by Goodhart 8 years ago


Common water insoluble powders to use as heatpipe wick.

I'm wanting to make a heatpipe which works against gravity and so am looking for commonly available materials to use as a wick. Like a sugarcube on a spoon soaking up coffee. Except that since I'll probably be using water as my working fluid, the wick will need to be insoluble in water, as well as heat proof to a couple hundred degrees. A few things I've thought of to try are flour, talcum powder, chalk dust and sand. Thoughts?

Posted by SolarFlower_org 8 years ago


science Question!

While day dreaming in history class, A question popped into my mind; If our body temperature is 98 degrees Fahrenheit (37 degrees Celsius) why are we uncomfortable in hot weather?

Posted by mynameisjonas 9 years ago


Temperature sensor with cool thermistor

Hi, I am trying to make a temperature sensor using a thermistor. I've made a basic circuit using an Arduino and some tutorials from this site and couple others, which works well but the thermistor heats up way too much - perhaps to about 50 or 60 degrees - but it needs to stay around room temperature for my application. I'm using a 5V output from an Arduino through a 15Ohm thermistor - am I doing something wrong? Many thanks for the help! The one I've made is almost identical to the one in this tutorial: http://www.circuitbasics.com/arduino-thermistor-temperature-sensor-tutorial/ except a different thermistor

Posted by Mickey_blu_eyes 1 year ago


should i bother to make a m107 sniper rife

First I need to say: I am no knexpert, new to the site (noob) but I want to prove I am not one of those people who just comment. I am thinking of making a M107 sniper the minimum it will have... -shoot red or yellow rods -fire 60+ feet (thats going to be tricky) -have a removable clip -look something like the real thing -internal ram or just out the way -a folding bi-pod -true trigger I know it sounds almost inpossable but i am going to use the best of some guns and try to put it together. It will probly fail but it will be worth the try. Any questions or suggestions?

Posted by heat-seeker 9 years ago


Arduino | Run 2 Function at the same time.

Hi , i wanna ask about 2 function which is Ultrasonic and Heat that run at the same time  , For me , i just got Heat running as i want but the Ultrasonic doesn't trigger the buzzer if object (Laptop) 30cm away from the ultrasonic. I've been trying since last week but the result is still the same ;'( Btw here is the code , i've seperate it to 2 function which is Ultrasonic and Heat.  i hope u guys can guide me which part should i change or Add. Thanks in advance ;) //*********************************** #include #define trigPin 6    //trigPin #define echoPin 7    //echoPin LiquidCrystal lcd(12,11,5,4,3,2); int tempPin = A1;   // the output pin of LM35 int fan = 10;       // the pin where fan is int led = 9;        // led pin int temp; int tempMin = 35;   // the temperature to start the fan int tempMax = 70;   // the maximum temperature when fan is at 100% int fanSpeed; int fanLCD; int duration, distance; int buzzer = LOW; void setup() {   Serial.begin (9600);        //Baud rate   pinMode (trigPin, OUTPUT);  //trig pin as output   pinMode (echoPin, INPUT);   //echo pin as input   pinMode (13, OUTPUT);       //Buzzer pin as output   pinMode(fan, OUTPUT);   pinMode(led, OUTPUT);   pinMode(tempPin, INPUT);   lcd.begin(16,2);   } void ultrasonic() {   digitalWrite (trigPin, HIGH);   delayMicroseconds (1000);   digitalWrite (trigPin, LOW);   duration = pulseIn (echoPin, HIGH);   distance = (duration/2) / 29.1;   if (distance > 30)   {     Serial.print(distance);     Serial.println(" cm");     digitalWrite (13, HIGH);   }   else   {     Serial.println (distance);     Serial.println ( "cm");     digitalWrite (13, LOW);   } } void heat() {   temp = readTemp();     // get the temperature   if(temp < tempMin) {   // if temp is lower than minimum temp     fanSpeed = 0;      // fan is not spinning     digitalWrite(fan, LOW);         }   if((temp >= tempMin) && (temp <= tempMax)) {  // if temperature is higher than minimum temp     fanSpeed = map(temp, tempMin, tempMax, 32, 255); // the actual speed of fan     fanLCD = map(temp, tempMin, tempMax, 0, 100);  // speed of fan to display on LCD     analogWrite(fan, fanSpeed);  // spin the fan at the fanSpeed speed   }   if(temp > tempMax) {        // if temp is higher than tempMax     digitalWrite(led, HIGH);  // turn on led   }   else {                    // else turn of led     digitalWrite(led, LOW);   }   lcd.print("TEMP: ");   lcd.print(temp);      // display the temperature   lcd.print("C ");   lcd.setCursor(0,1);   // move cursor to next line   lcd.print("FANS: ");   lcd.print(fanLCD);    // display the fan speed   lcd.print("%");   delay(200);   lcd.clear();   } float readTemp() {  // get the temperature and convert it to celsius   temp = analogRead(tempPin);   return temp * 0.48828125; } void loop() {    ultrasonic();   heat(); } //***********************************

Posted by Melromeo 4 years ago


Workspaces

Does anyone work in an out-of-the-house space? I just published a blog post about how I keep my wood shop warm, just wondering if anyone here has stories to share about their workspace. Also, does anyone have experience with thermostats? I wouldn't mind a critical eye to review my post. Thanks, David J. Ulschmid www.thelumberlab.com http://www.thelumberlab.com/2011/thermostat-types-for-shop-heaters/

Posted by DUlschm 6 years ago


Solution to turning on/off gas: new pump design.

I've been working a couple weeks now on solving the problem I posted here on how to improve my pump design by alternating the feed of ethanol vapour. I got good feedback but ultimately all the solutions involved mechanisms which were going to be somewhat tricky to build and source, which is against the brief of the project I'm working on; being an open source solar tracker concentrator makeable from scrap. In the end I solved the problem by largely redesigning the whole pump. Since it's driven by boiling ethanol, rather than add an extra mechanism for turning the feed of vapour off and on, I reduced the amount of ethanol being boiled, so that it boils itself out after an appropriate period. The vapour is then able to collapse fully, which sucks in more liquid ethanol and refills the system. 1. At the bottom right is the boiler, which holds about 2-3 ml ethanol. 2. This boils and the vapour enters the 'chamber' (the half blue, half white (liquid and gas)), forcing out the liquid, which pours into the wheel, ending up in the main reservoir. 3. This continues until the eths in the boiler has boiled away to the extent that it can no longer overcome the rate of re-condensation in the chamber, which starts to suck, so to speak. 4. This draws liquid from the reservoir, which passes through the boiler, shutting off the boil, the pressure drops quickly and the chamber and boiler refill with liquid. 5. Two valves (the only moving parts, besides the wheel) keep all this going in the right direction. 6. Repeat. The wheel provides the motion for the solar tracker. It's not in by any means powerful or efficient, but the whole thing can be made from a bit of metal tube, some thin pipe, a glass jar and two valves from bike inner tubes (plus a paint tin, bike wheel bearing and some drinks cans for the wheel). I haven't had a chance to try it in the field yet, but powered by a candle it seems to work fairly well. Blog entry here, will post photos and videos when available.

Posted by SolarFlower_org 8 years ago


hard drive heat question

Which 3.5 ' ' drives run cooler ? hitachi western digital

Posted by 11010010110 9 years ago


Melting plastics with heat gun?

Hello!  I'm attempting to make a costume and I need to make bubble eye caps. Could I use a plastic bottle and heat it up so that it'll melt partially?

Posted by Sedatephobia 3 years ago


How can I heat gasoline, with out it igniting?

I want to dissolve plastic into the gas, so i need to heat it. How could i do this without buying anything???

Posted by DELTAWOLF05 10 years ago


Burning Barrel Pool Heater

I have a 3,000 gallon inground pool and no heater. If I took a barrel, stuck it in the shallow end just a half inch above being totally submerged, and lit a fire inside it it would it work to heat the water around it and eventually heat up the pool?

Posted by jakeotron 10 years ago


Carburettor Heater - need help

Hi All, Hope this is in the right section. I am working on a project to heat the body of a carburettor (Bing 84) in order to prevent carb icing.  No commercial solution exists for my carburettor.  My engine (for paramotoring) is air cooled so can't use water from cooling system. My idea was to strip out the nichrome heating element from a car cigarette lighter and use that.  The heat needs to be applied to the metal casing of the carburettor, preferably being hottest near the air intake side of the carb.  I decided the best place was where the air filter is attached - a 12mm long metal throat with a 35mm diameter The trouble is, I don't know I can transfer the hundreds of degrees of temperature from the nichrome to the metal body of the carb without just shorting out the battery.  If I am to have a layer of insulation between the nichrome and the carburettor, what can I use that will conduct heat but not electrical current, and withstand around 300 degrees of heat?  I also thought about reducing the current and spreading the heating over a larger portion of the metal casing, which would allow the temperature to be lower. I have also been experimenting with motorbike hand grip heaters that run of 12v but they don't generate enough heat - I need to be pumping in around 8-10A as the internal cooling effect of the fuel vaporising rapidly causes sub zero conditions inside the carb even when the outside air temperature is well above freezing.  I have a 7Ah li-ion which I would only switch on when required (maybe have a latching push button on throttle control). It may not be doable but its an interesting project nonetheless and something I am going to play around with.  Any ideas? Thanks, Dug

Posted by dugaldcurtis 6 years ago


heat_up room by soldering iron ?!

Hi everybody :D I have a soldering iron and a computer fan. and I was thinking if I can use them to heat up my room!  I asking If any body tried it beform or have an idea. 

Posted by abbadi 2 years ago


Peltier-element: Limiting its heat by tapping the power?

Hi I have a question based upon logics and the function of a peltier-element. we all know, that you can supply power to a peltier-element to raise the temperature on it one side and lowering it on the other. So it increases the differential. Now: If we heat the "cool" side and try to radiate the heat off the hot side (eg cooling it a bit), we can get a small amount of energy off the peltier as electrical current. The current depends on the temperature-differential: The bigger the more. OK so far. Nothing new. But what made me think was the fact, that you have 2 opposite states: Heat Side C and cool side H --> Get energy out in proportion of heat-differential. Put energy in --> Side C gets cooler and side H gets hotter in proportion of energy supplyed. By getting energy OFF the peltier, you in some way, redirect some parts of the heating-energy to the electrical-output. Also that is nothing new and we all know that since energy cannot be generated but only converted (in our case from thermal energy to electrical energy). Now what puzzles me is: Does it actually affect the temperature (-differential) of the peltier, if you get energy off it? Lets imagine the following experiment: - You build something like in https://www.instructables.com/id/Candle-Powered-Electric-Candle/ - Now you disconnect the load (lamp) and measure the temperature on the upper side (Away from the candle). - Wait for a steady-state when the upper side doesn't get hotter - Now turn on the lamp thus redirecting a bit of energy away from the peltier. - measure the temperature again on the upper side. Does it lower the upper temperature a bit? of course it wont be lower than the unheated state. But lets say the steady state was 55°C. Would it be like 50°C if i switch on the lamp?

Posted by Orngrimm 5 years ago


Melt and Mold Plastic Grocery Bags

Hi - I have been crocheting, knitting and sewing with plastic bags for several years.  Now, I'm wanting to try something new with the plastic bags by molding them into beads, brooches and other fun stuff. Can you safely heat plastic bags to be moldable?    Thanks for any help I can get..... 

Posted by crochooley 7 years ago


Creating Multi Source power to store in batteries and convert for home use

 I am planning on using multi source electricity producers to store in batteries and convert to 110/220 AC for home use. I am going to set up as many generators as I can, including solar panels, wind generators, water flow generators and heat flow generators. I am building an underground storage room for the batteries. What would be the best batteries to use? What do I need to be able to use my generators to charge the batteries (I am thinking I will need a separate battery charger for each battery, but what do I need between the generators and the chargers?) and then how do I convert the DC to AC and hook it up to the house? As I will be doing this a little at a time, we will be using electricity from the power company at the same time. As we save money on the electric bill with the power we supply, we will expand our own generation of power, until we no longer need to buy electricity. Thank you in advance, Michael C. LaMay

Posted by MichaelL255 2 years ago


Woodstove

I have built this woodstove for my tiny house. I had tight space limitations. I chose a used 20 gal+/- propane tank. I cut out a door and exhaust opening with a disc on my angle grinder. Helpful hint. I attached hinges befor making the last cut on the door. It lines up perfectly. I found a piece of 6" well casing for my stack. An old piece of sheet steel for the top, in which I cut a 4" hole for my flue. I am using the tank upsied down as I am using the original valve opening, which is 3/4" pipe thread for outside combustion air. I welded the tank onto a 15" used steel car wheel for a sturdy stand. I will not be burning wood only manufactured logs like from Tractor Supply and will be making used paper for making presed pulp logs. I am letting the High Heat paint fumes air off before I fire it up. I also have a CO and Smoke Detector plus a Fire Extinguisher. There is a dampner in the flue and a thru wall fixture. It is mostly airtight. I installed 1/8" flanges on in and outside of the door. Used  a black wrought iron gate latch for a closer and some brass machine screws for bling. lol If anyone does this make sure you know what the hell you are doing, if not don't try this at home.

Posted by SamDee43 1 year ago


Need help: Transistor 7805 problem

Hello . I just make a PSP charger. I used a 12v,450mA adapter as power source and a 7805 transistor to get 5v output. this is the wire map: http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg132/chipmapple/untitled-38.jpg When i plug it to my PSP, it's work, but the Transistor start become hotter, after 2mins the transitor is very hot... I don't know what's wrong with it, i tried other 7805 but got same problem. Please help.... Thanks very much .! *sorry for my bad English

Posted by login721 7 years ago


Tinned my soldering iron, now it wont work?

Hi there. I recently read an instructable on here on how to solder (rather, read through several) and all of them mentioned that it was imperative to tin the tip of your soldering iron. So I took out my trusty butane soldering iron, and tinned it with a layer of solder so thin, I can't see a thickness to it, and can only tell it's there because it's shinier than the tip of the soldering iron. My problem, is now the tip doesn't appear to get hot enough to melt solder (?!), as no matter how long I hold it directly on a piece of solder, it never actually seems to melt. I tried brushing the tip with some sandpaper (while cold) and a diamond drill bit (gently! while hot) to try and remove some of the solder from it, but to no avail. I can no longer solder anything. Any suggestions on what I'm doing wrong or how I could fix this? Thanks, Adam

Posted by NuclearDog 10 years ago


Solar Heat in Cold Climates

Cool Energy is making a solar power and heating system that works in cold climates. Hooray!  It makes use of a highly efficient Stirling Engine.SolarHeart

Posted by whiteoakart 9 years ago


Induction Heat used to melt glass and other metals

This is the start of an intended discussion about using induction heat to melt glass and other various metal.

Posted by JuxtaposedIToldYouSo 7 years ago


Does PC cooler's(FAN's) heatsink conducts electricity and heat?

I WOULD LIKE THAT IT CONDUCTS HEAT BUT NOW ELECTRICITY SO I CAN PUT helix in that that will be heater!!!

Posted by h0meIandsecurity 7 years ago


Solar heating and perceived temperature

We've had an interesting discussion spanning several months on the efficacy of this instructable's approach to heating: https://www.instructables.com/id/Foil-Solar-Panels-for-Windows-VERY-Easy/ The conversation has gone long and isn't really that appropriate for the comments there so I've moved it here. Summary: The approach described in the instructable is to create a thin metal panel that hangs inside of one's window, which is heated by the sun's radiant energy. Convection then carries the hot air next to the panel up and circulates it within the room. The question is whether this approach provides a warmer perceived environment than simply letting the light into the room. As I see it, the question has two components. First, which one nets more heat energy inside the room? For an average room, the light will be scattered many times before a tiny fraction reflects back out the window. A flat foil panel as described in the instructable would have to be extremely absorptive to match this level of energy capture, because it gets only one bounce for its capture and also must capture the heat in an extremely small thermal mass. For this part of the question, not having a panel seems the likely win. The second part of the the question is more complicated. What is the perceived temperature in the room, given differences between convection heating of the air versus radiative heating of objects and surfaces in the room? On this count I'm unsure, but it seems that radiative heat contributes more to human comfort (see this Wikipedia article: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mean_radiant_temperature). If that's true, the panels lose again. Discuss!

Posted by nagutron 7 years ago