Don't use on your Hotel room covers, chairs or bed sheets! ...you don't want to know! UVA/UVB high power LED's and some white use UV with white phosphors so be sure to wear eye protection...
Topic by erckgillis 12 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
Does anyone know or can tell me where I can get information on how to get High Powered LED's to alternate flashes like wig-wags for a vehicle?? Wondering what I need and how to wire it. I really wanted to have about 3 or 4 high powered LEDs (either Luxon Stars or something of the sort) on one side and 3 or 4 on the other side, and each side to alternate flashes back and forth. I need help at a beginner level and Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks
Topic by CrazyBob62 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
For a project totally nonrelated to my tesla coil I need a way of regulating a voltage down to 36 Volts at 8 amps. My transformer (or a bunch of transformers hooked together) is suppose to have an output of about 38 volts at 8 amps, yet the voltage (with no load) is actually around 60 volts... Basically I need a way of regulating this voltage. For saftey, lets say the max input is 70 volts and it should be able to handle 10 Amps. The output voltage should be 36.
Topic by guyfrom7up 10 years ago | last reply 10 years ago
I know you can use ws2801 led strips with Glediator and make a 10x10 matrix, but can I use a high power LED?I'm not quite sure what I'd need to make this work, that's why I'm here lolBy high power LED i mean something like this: https://i.pinimg.com/originals/67/d6/52/67d652f3ee83d4ad87aa5fe56c887cac.jpg
Question by Delta1Dan 1 year ago | last reply 1 year ago
I'm desperately trying to design an arduino circuit that can power each color of a high power cree MC-E color RGB led. What is the smallest dimension rechargeable battery I can use to accomplish this and have it run for a few hours? I'm desperate!
Question by SpiffyChee 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
I order a 30w led from ebay but i dont know how to power it can i use just a 16v 2a power adapter or hove i to buy a led driver here is the led: http://cgi.ebay.com/30W-White-High-Power-2100LM-LED-Light-Lamp-Bulb-A_W0QQitemZ220708010099QQcategoryZ163866QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp4340.m263QQ_trkparmsZalgo%3DSIC%26its%3DI%252BC%26itu%3DUCI%252BIA%252BUA%252BFICS%252BUFI%26otn%3D10%26pmod%3D220693236934%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D5621333683761900258
Question by Andrew_48 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
i am making a diy homemade projector and i want to know how to power a 30w led without a driver becouse the driver cost 30$ and i want to make the projector as cheap as posible so if anyone know a way to power a 30w led without a driver please help me the led ......http://cgi.ebay.com/30W-White-High-Power-2100LM-LED-Light-Lamp-Bulb-A_W0QQitemZ220708010099QQcategoryZ163866QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp4340.m263QQ_trkparmsZalgo%3DSIC%26its%3DI%252BC%26itu%3DUCI%252BIA%252BUA%252BFICS%252BUFI%26otn%3D10%26pmod%3D220693236934%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D5621333683761900258
Question by Andrew_48 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
If I build a 42A Constant Current PSU which can supply 1.2-6v, will the laser diode only draw 1.8-2V or will it try to draw to much voltage and damage its self? I have a 40W CCP CW Laser diode, here are some characteristics. Operating Voltage (V) <2.0 (1.8 typ.) Operating Current (A) <46 (42 typ.) I know that laser diodes will try to draw as much current as possible and suffer thermal runaway, so they need constant current power supply's. If anyone has any information on how to power high power laser diodes please let me know. All help will be greatly appreciated!
Question by deltawars 4 years ago | last reply 4 years ago
I'm currently in the process of building a high power LED flashlight from scratch. I've decided to go for AA batteries as a source of power, however, I am not sure as to whether 2 AAs will be enough to drive my LEDs. The LEDs are from a 5W LED bulb putting out ~360lm. I'm assuming the bulb itself has 5 1W LEDs connected in some sort of configuration, but I'm going to run them in parallel. I'm planning on running it on either Alkaline or NiMH. However, I'm not quite sure if there will be some sort of voltage drop with the load I'm going to place on the system (~1A @ 200mA each). Also, 2 NiMH will only have a combined voltage of 2.4v making me a bit skeptical as to whether it would even run. I already have a design for the flashlight for 2 AA batteries. Adding a third battery would complicate the design though, maybe requiring me to make a battery pack or something. So, will a 5x1W LED array in parallel run from a 2.4v NiMH power supply? Or do I have to go with 3 batteries plus a current limiting resistor?
Question by beehard44 5 years ago | last reply 5 years ago
I will be doing my first high power RGB Led project soon based on these leds: http://www.ebay.com/itm/380364867527?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_2814wt_1163 I will be using it in my boat utilizing this RGB controller: https://www.instructables.com/id/LED-Rainbow-RGB-LED-PWM-Controller-Construction-/ I will be using the project in my boat and thus tied to 12v dc battery power bus. The RGB specs call for: DC Forward Voltage (VF):Red 7.5V;Green 10V ~ 12V;Blue 10V ~ 12V @ 350ma per channel. My question is 'What is the best way to get the voltage down to the 7.5v required for Red'? As I am in a boat with a single 12v battery, I would like to be as efficient as possible. I plan to use 4-6 of these leds. Since each requires 12vish on the highest channel, I am planning to put them in parallel. Thanks in advance!
Question by BigSicilian 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
Im experimenting with ir motion sensors and im think i have a working model, but then i realized i would have a ir led on at almost 150 ma and i didn't know if that was safe, so i managed to reduce it to 10 ma and still work, but then i realized that if i didn't know how dangerous ir leds are, then any level could be unsafe for all i know (i came to that realization after i changed the circuit because im smart like that) i couldn't find any safety info on ir leds, just ir lasers, is there a certain power to distance ratio or anything i should know? aside from not shining it directly into my eyes (im not that far-gone)
Question by the judge 9 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
I have an idea for an Arduino-controlled LED floor lamp and am interested in subjective information about the different brands of high power LEDs--pros and cons, the color and quality of the light, availability of heatsinks, mounting brackets, drivers, durability, price and so on. Sparkfun sells Luxeon so it's tempting to just go with that, but I don't want to just go with that and find out something else was better. I don't have a definite design yet just in the daydream stages, I want to be able to dim and brighten, turn individual LEDs on and off, be able to adjust the quality of light from warm to cool, I'm thinking white as a basis plus some RGB LEDs or other color leds to tweak the color, but the white light will do the heavy lifting, probably with some opaque white plastic or glass to mix and diffuse the light from all of the LEDs. I found a few articles, but they're a few years old, or not exactly relevant (e.g. comparison of flashlights using these LEDs). www.lighthound.com/Fenix-Cree-Luxeon-Rebel-LED-Flashlight-Comparison-Chart_ep_53-1.html www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?221524-cree-vs-luxeon ledflashlights.blogspot.com/2011/06/cree-versus-luxeon.html ledsreview.com/articles/209/
Topic by cdslashetc 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
Look at a picture of some arcs from a common spark-gap Tesla Coil, and then compare it to the arcs from a solid-state. What makes the two so different? The difference comes from the Solid-State Tesla Coil to operate in CW (constant wave) mode. This means that its power supply is uninterrupted, whereas in a spark-gap type, power is being switched on and off hundreds of times per second. If the output terminal of a CW coil doesn't have a brake out point, no corona or spark will occur. For anyone who's investigating wireless power transmission or Tesla's version of radio, this is a very helpful feature, since corona only wastes energy. And if it does have a brake out point, it can create some pretty interesting spark displays, as I mentioned above. An arc to a grounded object increases the current in the arc to such a point that it turns into a white-hot "flaming" discharge. All-in-all, a CW type coil is a pretty interesting kind to observe. But solid-states can be pretty difficult and annoying to build, and expensive as well. Since solid-state technology obviously was not available to Tesla, he found a different way to operate his coils in CW mode- a generator that was specially designed to produce radio-frequency power. He had originally created it for high-frequency arc lighting. Today, I have seen absolutely no coils run by a high frequency alternator. Of course, an alternator would be admittedly difficult to build, but since it could probably deliver more power than a solid-state coil, it would be worth it. Does anyone know if there are any companies that still make these alternators? Would anyone be interested in recreating it? Should we even bother? Thank you for listening. Peace!
Topic by ElectricUmbrella 9 years ago | last reply 4 years ago
I am in need of a power supply that can give out about 500V @ 13A. I know it's high, but I want it to charge a capacitor(400V, 1000μF, 13A) for my coilgun. I've already tried a flyback charger, but the result was to blow the capacitor up(I think that it couldn't withstand so much voltage, despite the amperege was lower that its threshold). I don't want that to happen again and I want a relatively fast way to charge the capacitor. Also, the power supply needs to be portable. Another thing: the voltage is not mandatory to be THAT high; the amperage also(let's say...1 or 2 amps...)... However I need DC pulsating current, at 20 kHz NOTE: I really hope that I'm not asking too much.......
Question by N3v3rm0r3 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
TITAN the High Powered Minature Water RocketOk, yeah sure. What the hell is that then?I'ble to follow...If someone can find me a smaller one, i'll beat it.It stands 7 inches high.TITAN flys well over 70 foot and has a alloy chamber capable of withstanding over 250 PSI.Oh how I love compressed air!Don't worry Poseidon is still in the making and will be posted for the "Keep the bottle" contest. There is also another full bore, open throat 5 x 600 ml rocket to come.
Topic by Lftndbt 10 years ago
I have been entering the realm of high powered rocketry and have been having trouble with my rocket frame design. My rockets accelerate from the ground at 20 m/s2 with a custom built rocket motor which weighs 80 grams, the problem I have is that the rocket spins head over tail after take off at around 10 revolutions per sec. I suspect that the design is too tail heavy... The specifications for the rocket are; Height 40cm Fins 9 by 5 cm 90o triangles x 3 Width 5 cm Any help will be praised appropriately.
Question by Tombini 9 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
I'm wanting to build an electronic version of the popular carnival game High Striker. I would like it to be done with LEDs as the way it displays the power of the strike. This way i can arrange them however I need to. It's going to be themed to look like lightening, so they won't be in a perfectly straight line. Thanks in advance for any input.
Question by Dustin Cox 5 years ago | last reply 5 years ago
I'm going to attempt to make a super micro tesla coil that is 100% contained (unless it runs off of like 12 volts dc, then I'll use a wallwart). Of course, one of the i biggest problem is the power supply. So this is what I'm asking, what's the best way of ramping up the voltage? A tiny toroid transformer? An inductor that gets pulsed? Voltage Multiplier? Something with static electricity? Some type of Inverter? Using Greinacher Cascades? A marx generator hybrid? Other stuff I havn't heard of?
Topic by guyfrom7up 10 years ago | last reply 10 years ago
I need a portable and efficient way to convert battery power (3 volts) to around 400 volts. I will be using alkaline batteries... This will be used to charge a high voltage capacitor bank.
Question by brooklynlord 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
There is a lot of conflicting information on this and I would like to know if my speakers/amp would get damaged. Using 80w speakers and a 50w amp will there be any problems with running on full volume? And if I got a 100w amp with those 80w speakers will there be damage, even if I added a heat sink to the back where the voice coil is? The speakers say 80w max but not really reliable as they are well priced Chinese speakers. Speakers: 80W Audio Sensitivity: 88dB Frequency Range (Hz): 100-20Khz 4 Ohm Amp: Efficiency: 90% Rated output power: 2*50W+100W Working voltage: DC18V to DC24V The maximum output current: 4A Frequency Response: 20Hz-20KHz Can drive a 3-16 ohm speakers In the condition of rated voltage 24V The sub woofer channel at rated voltage 24V state can drive 2-16 ohm sub woofer Bass cut-off frequency independent regulation 20HZ-20KHZ adjustable Very confusing conflicting info online with under rated amps causing clipping and over powered amps frying the speakers. Originally I thought it was only bad to over power the speakers. Any help about what is worse, is appreciated.
Question by bonze77 3 years ago | last reply 3 years ago
I've been getting into arduino lately and recently discovered the LED matrix. I also saw some high power LEDs controlled by arduino using transistors to handle the power. I wondered if the same idea could be applied to a matrix. It seemed relatively simple, but when I built the circuit in a simulator (everycircuit- an excellent app), I quickly realized some issues with it. The attached picture is the circuit in the simulator. You should get an idea of the flaws of the circuit. I know it would be pretty simple to use relays instead of transistors, but does anyone have any ideas on how to do it with transistors? NPN or PNP or both. I can't figure it out how to do it, but I figured that the collective mind of the brilliant members of instructables could probably manage to come up with something.
Topic by dudes 4 years ago | last reply 4 years ago
I just built a beefed up ZVS driver to handle a large continuous current, however, I now lack a power supply that will allow me to reach its full potential. The biggest thing aside from my variac that I have is two xbox power supplies in series (24V 29A). I would like something around 40-50V with at least 5A. I could rewire a mot which would take a very long time and weigh a lot so if anyone has any schematics or pointers on how to make one electronically it would be much appreciated!
Question by Jimmy Proton 3 years ago | last reply 3 months ago
i need to add another power cord to my HV Transformer it does not look like it has any difference in which way it is wired could i just connect the power cord to it and in the second picture is the screw the ground to the case or can i just gound the case itself to a pole in the ground for example
Question by MonstaM 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
Well this is my second post and I am a bit more learned in the ways of LED circuits from many of your posts.Objective: Create a high light output LED array that will peak at around 16,000K for growing coral for reef aquariums.Primary strategy: connect 10 or more Luxeon III stars in seriesPreferred requirements: Energy efficient, Low Heat emittance, Needs to peak out at the appropriate spectrum for the coral ( I have that covered just by changing the ratio of cool whites to royal blue Luxeon III's)At the moment I a just going for a simple on/off, later i would like to employ a form of automated dimming so that it fades on and off so there is not such a sharp on off with the LED's. So far I have a circuit that i plan on modeling my LED array after since it was readily available for me to dissect. The following is an LED array. I know that there is a diode rectifier bridge built in there and a smoothing capasitor but there are to components i do not recognize they are connected at the positive and negative ends of the circuit. One is the Yellow (doohickey with part # 684j 250) component attached to the positive lead and the other is a clear (fuse/resistor hybrid) component next to the resistor on the board.https://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FGX/D7E2/FBQ33XYA/FGXD7E2FBQ33XYA.MEDIUM.jpghttps://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FGX/D7E2/FBQ33XYA/FGXD7E2FBQ33XYA.MEDIUM.jpgI was able to draw the circuit and it seems pretty straight forward but I just need to know if I will be able to spec the appropriate components to operate 10 leds in series (Each LED operates with a Vf=3.9 V and I= 1000mA ) they will need a supply of more then 40V DC.Any help or dialogue I can get the more the better and the more I will learnIn addition I looked at Dan's high power constant current but not sure how well it would operate under the conditions that I have specifiedPrimary LED's in use for the Reef light: (note all are stars)LED part # Color Type Vf Amps LuxLXHL-LW3C cool white Lambertian 3.9 1000mA 80lumensLXHL-LR3C Royal blue Lambertian 3.9 1000mA 445mWLumensLXHL-MW1D cool white " " 3.42 350 mA 45 LumensLXHL-MRRD Royal Blue "" "" 3.42 350 mA 220 mWLumensThere was little to no difference between the 700 mA series and the 1000mA series so I did not list themI look forward to all your helpTom
Topic by Aquatope 11 years ago
I recently just got a hold of a Allanson oil ignition transformer, the output voltage is 10,000 volts at 23 ma. the power cord was cut so i have to connect another power cord. what gauge or metal is recommended for the output terminals and can i attach a power switch to the 120 A.C. volt line. i was planning on starting off making a jacobs ladder then later on making a tesla coil after i have worked with high voltage a little bit longer are there any more uses for the high voltage transformer i have
Question by MonstaM 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
I'm starting to work with high voltages again, but for real this time. I just built an ignition coil driver, using a 555 (and I got an ignition coil), but my 555 broke (the texas instruments ones can only drive 15mA, oppose to the normal 200mA, oops) so I have to go buy one today. My main question is what to use for ground, whether it be for an old screwdriver for arcing sparks or the secondary of a tesla coil. I was originall just going to use the 3rd prong of an outlet, but somewhere on the internet I heard this could destroy all surge protected power strips and destroy all plugged in electronics at your house. I, of course, do not want this cause... well... I'd be screwed. Is this true or not? Can I use the 3rd prong?
Topic by guyfrom7up 10 years ago | last reply 10 years ago
Hi there I am wanting to drive 5 100 watt Cool white LEDs at half power total of 250 watts. Each LED spec is 32-34 volts DC @ 3.5 amps. Ideally I would like to drive from one power supply. or 2 at most, any advice would be welcome. please email me at firstname.lastname@example.org
Topic by JohnT10 4 years ago | last reply 4 years ago
I need to know because I may be using one as my power source for my Tesla-coil.
Question by nerd7473 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
I am building a manufacturing plant and have machinery that will require 792 kilowatts. Obviously I can't pull this from the grid so I was wondering if there is some kind of high power line for industrial purposes.
Question by versos-tk 4 years ago | last reply 3 years ago
I saw an electric lady in a travelling sideshow. The type where she throws sparks from the hands, makes paper burst into flames and causes bulbs to light by holding them. I'm assuming they are using a high frequency power supply (very low amps), and I was wondering if anyone has built one and if there are any good schematics on line?
Topic by Divet 8 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
I have two transformers ( 430-7101A) that're wired together from a APC Battery Back-up that I'd like to turn into a high amp regulated power supply. I've been looking through the site and have seen very few options. I'm positave that (sorry for the pun) there's a shematic somewhere out there and would Love to get my hands on it. These are a very nice pair of transformers that I'd Hate to see go to waste. And help would be Great! TIA
Topic by your_dragon113 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
I am going to start off by saying I have no electrical backround, I can solder and am very mechanically inclined. I am wanting to use these as a laser power supply. I have a 24v 50a, a 48v 25a , and am getting a 5v 175a power supplies. I would like to do the voltages and amps adjustable with a potentiometer to go from 0- to their rated output. I see voltage regulators all over but they arent made for high current and usually dont make the current adjustable. How could I do this? Most laser diodes these would be used for are 2.2-3.5 volts.
Question by wby300 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
I'm designing a large scale robot, and I want a generator of sorts that runs very efficiently for a sustained period of time. It would need to be able to power 13 Large electric motors, 29 smaller electric motors, and run a smorgasbord of electronic systems to control them. Ideas? It needs to portable, long lasting, and be able to take on the demand of everything.
Question by Slashaar 5 years ago | last reply 5 years ago
Hi, I Have a high voltage power supply (5kv) its basically a flyback driver with a flyback transformer. there's no documents on it. here's my problem. It take 24v DC and it goes through some sort of weird relay (http://www.selectronic.fr/includes_selectronic/pdf/Siemens/DS2E_S.pdf) and the 8th pin is connected to ground 9th pin seems to be the output. I just cant get it to work. I'm really horrible with analog electronics. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Question by mman1506 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
I am in need of a pre wired High Power Led board. Something like a Cree XR-E Q2 Emitter. I would like to find a supplier that I could buy pre built/ wired boards (plug and play) to install in a small lighting package. Ideally I would like to find a pre built light that I could incorporate into my project. I need a high output 12v white light, that I can make a reverse light out of. I am hoping to market the product so a supplier over a retail option would be best. Any help you could give would be greatly appreciated Thanks in advance
Topic by returnforservice 8 years ago
Greetings! I have wanted to begin experimenting with high voltages recently and have already collected a series of projects that I would like to conduct. The only issue is that of my high voltage power supply. I have not the funds or resources to buy into a NST or MOT system and ended up looking for alternatives. I at first tried the ignition coil route that ended in failure and have now moved on. My question is, will a Cockcroft–Walton generator be able to run say, a tesla coil, jacob's ladder, or even a farnsworth fusor given that the necessary voltage is outputted from the multiplier. Kind of between a rock and a hard place here, Thanks anyway!
Topic by SidC1 3 years ago | last reply 3 years ago
I've been having trouble finding examples (on instructables or through google) of using a high-powered op-amp as a standalone amplifier, like the 2x10 watt or higher ones available at TI and such. Yeah, there's always the datasheet applications section, but those will only get you so far, there's always little electrical quirks and anomalies to account for that may not be obvious to me (as an undergraduate computer engineering major). If anyone could point me toward an article or two, or even better, an instructable, I'd be very grateful. Thanks. p.s. is that Epson ad crashing anyone else's firefox?
Topic by samurai1200 10 years ago | last reply 10 years ago
Has anyone tried using a thermoelectric cooler, like this one http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?item=PJT-7to cool down a high powered LED star. I am considering mounting one on the back of a new Luxeon RebelI plan on ramping the current up to max (1 amp) on the led, and run the Thermoelectric cooler (TEC) as high as possible off a lead-acid battery. Strap a giant heat sink on it (maybe a fan too) plus thermal and silicone over the whole thing. It wouldn't be pretty, but it would be a neat experiment on how many lumens you could crank out of one of these things. Any inputs, suggestions, Ideas? Feel free to make an instructale on this if you want, I can't guarantee I will do it anytime soon.
Topic by John Culbertson 11 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
Hey folks,I am new to this LED thing.I've bought around 90 high powered 3W and 5W LEDs with different forward voltages, and I am going to power them using some LED drivers that I bought with them. After searching for a while about how the nature of LEDs are, I am not sure about how should I connect these drivers to the LEDs because the drivers are constant current type of 1500mA, and the required amperage of LEDs are 700mA. I am thinking of adding one resistor to reduce 1500ma to 700ma just after + output in the series of LEDs line, but then because the drivers are a constant current one I think the resistor might just not work as the driver may try to push the current to reach to 1500mA so then it may ruin the resistor and LEDs afterward. Well, this is my guess and I am not so sure about that, so I need help with this one. Here I bought 5pcs of the 50W type:https://www.ebay.ca/itm/162156429886Above link is the drivers that I mistakenly bought from ebay (I could buy the 700mA drivers and make my life easy, but there is no high wattage (above 100W) with low amperage (700mA) LED driver in the market for a reasonable price for an unknown reason to me, could anyone answer this too?) Also my another question is about the nature of LED drivers: Let's say there is a LED driver with a constact current of 700mA and output voltage of 30-45V and some LEDs with forward voltage of 3.7V and 700mA required current, what happens if I connect 4 LEDs to this driver? Does it ruin the LEDs for getting more voltage than required? Or it's gonna be fine because the current is constantly 700mA? I am so confused right now! Please help!I also bought some temperature switches so I could add it to my circuit so I save my LEDs in case they got so hot! Yet I am not sure where to add them! If anyone could advise me on this I really appreciate it!
Topic by gamma-rays 1 year ago | last reply 11 months ago
Just thought I would give those interested a sneak peak at the Poseidon's main booster module.Construction-12 x 1.25L Soda bottles spliced with external sleeves using Sikaflex 11FC.The Poseidon's booster module is not yet complete, it has another 7L of capacity to be added. The booster will then be combined with several other modules before Poseidon is ready for launch.You may also like to note the quick attach/release fin system. They are saw toothed sign holders normally found in stationary shops. They allow the fins not only to be attached perpendicular to the body, but also provide a reproducible fixing method.Although this is not my preferred method of splicing, Aircommand.com has put together an excellent tutorial which can show you the principal. My method (which I DID NOT create) involves shrinking the inner bottle with our curled lip. Air command in that tutorial reduces the outside sheath from a larger capacity bottle to suit. The method I use does not call for the use of different sized bottles or a blow torch, just boiling water. Air Commands Splicing tutorialAircommand.com
Topic by Lftndbt 10 years ago | last reply 10 years ago
Hi, I have read about technical specification of a thermoelectric peltier TEC1-12726 . The U max =15v , I max =26.3 and Qc max =257.27w. I would like to know about the cooling power in wat(cooling generating). It seems that the power consumption is about 400w. I have heard that thermoelectric peltiers have good and high efficiency. I need some more information about any other powerfull peltiers with high efficiency to build an air condition unit. I need to make sure the power is the cooling power and/or power consumption. I would be so grateful to have some good suggestions and ideas as well. Regards Kevin
Question by sajadi007 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
I have the dvd player already. I have seen some high powered LEDs people have used and I just wasn't sure what one to get or where to get it.
Question by jeoncs 10 years ago | last reply 10 years ago
I'm looking at some instructables, and the simplicity of the cockroft-walton generator is quite interesting. Because I've always been fascinated by lightning and electric sparks (ever since I saw a wimshurst machine as a kid), I was thinking of building a CW generator, to power a small marx generator. Now, I found the parts, but I don't know much about electronics, so I have a few questions, and I was hoping someone here could help me out. 1) For ceramic capacitors, some are labeled for instance '15kV', while others are '15VDC'. I assume the latter only work for DC input, is this correct? 2) If I were to make a CW generator using a few 400V capacitors and a fuse (assuming I don't f*k up putting it together) like this: https://www.instructables.com/id/High-Voltage-Power-Supply-For-Marx-Generator/?&sort;=ACTIVE&l; imit=40&offset;=80 Is there a risk of blowing a fuse in the house, or is that fuse in the setup enough protection? 3) Is there any risk for other electrical devices, like a computer, when I plug this in? 4) I work at a computer repair shop, are there any useful components in power supplies, old screens...? Thanks in advance!
Topic by cgpirre 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago