What is the product of burning hydrogen? Smoke? Hydrocarbons? Or nothing? Thanks!
Question by joespicnictables 8 years ago | last reply 2 years ago
I was wondering what is the chemical reaction between hydrocarbon and sodium hydroxide when they react with each other. I can not find it on the internet that's why I asked y'all. Thanks
Question by charlotteferriols 4 years ago | last reply 4 years ago
I have instructions for extracting pure essential oil from plant material using butane. The problem I have with it is that at the end, the butane is vented. I just don't feel right about venting unburned hydrocarbons into the atmosphere. I've been looking at glass lab equipment (distillation tubes, connectors, etc). I have no background in chemistry, but it seems to me it shouldn't be too difficult to put something together using standard glass lab equipment to capture, distill and reuse the butane. Butane boils at 31 degrees Fahrenheit and is heavier than air. At the end of the process, the oil is scraped from the bottom of a drying dish. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to put something like this together? Thanks
Topic by GlobalVillageIdiot 9 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
I have instructions for extracting pure esential oil from plant material using butane. The problem I have with it is that at the end, the butane is vented. I just don't feel right about venting unburned hydrocarbons into the atmosphere. I've been looking at glass lab equipment (distillation tubes, connectors, etc). I have no background in chemistry, but it seems to me it shouldn't be too difficult to put something together using standard glass lab equipment to capture, distill and reuse the butane. Butane boils at 31 degrees farinhite and is heavier than air. At the end of the process, the oil is scraped from the bottom of a drying dish. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to put something like this together? Thanks
Question by GlobalVillageIdiot 9 years ago | last reply 4 months ago
I need a relatively simple way to produce a few milliliters of dry H2 gas. I do NOT want HHO and I do NOT want electrolysis of water, I also would like this method to produce little to no water as a byproduct. I'm looking for generators because the minimum tank size of hydrogen I could buy (unless someone could locate a supplier in the UK that would sell me something the size of a propane tank or smaller) is far too large. I'm Interested in a chemical reaction or hydrocarbon cracking method that would require a maximum of 200 degrees C if it requires energy input, but I don't mind if it's terribly exothermic (unless its an thermite-like reaction, then we have a problem) since I have a very effective cooling system in place for it and the rest of the system. I forgot to add what its for, glow brazing. It'll be ionized and remove surface oxides while simultaneously heating the parts to be brazed.
Question by The Ideanator 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
hello, i extracted some lithium metal from some new lithium batteries i bought at a second hand shop really cheaply . ive extracted the metal from one, but now, after placing it under vegetable oil to store, then putting in water, the vegetable oil works too well seperating the lithium form the water, making small lithium combustion reactions very difficult and i really want to show my friends the marvels of lithium on water, so i want to know, is it safe to store lithium in methylated spirits, or some other hydrocarbon that will evaporate away really fast , and not inhibit the lithium's reaction with water, like canola oil does? clean lithium usually combusts when i put it in water , and the reaction is quite fast. but when i put oily lithium in water, the same does not happen, the reaction is slow, and no combustion occurs unless i use my jet lighter.
Question by oldmanbeefjerky 7 years ago | last reply 8 months ago
Hi Im working on a flamethrower which is turning out pretty well, the only issue is, since im using alcohol as the fuel, the flames are pretty much invisible, i was wondering what i could add to increase the carbon content. Normally ide experiment with adding a little gasoline, or diesel to it, but i have to be careful with my pump, its made from either ABS or PLA, and for some reason everyone on ebay who sells them are very sketchy, ive bought 4 in the past and only the last one ever arrived. Anyway, what can i add to my fuel to make its flame more visible? Fortunately my flamethrower does not leak at all so its safe to move up from alcohol to something with a higher burning temp. What can i add that will not dissolve the plastic, increase flame brightness, and not increase the burn temp too much. Before hydrocarbons, are there any salts or chemicals i can dissolve into the alcohol to do this? i beleive i can dilute the alcohol a bit with water so it will take sodium, but will that have any significant effect? The sun is pretty bright here so alcohol flames are invisible, gasoline flames however are very visible in contrast. Thanks
Question by oldmanbeefjerky 6 years ago | last reply 5 years ago
Hello, a brilliant idea(as they often are) crossed my mind this morning which was to build a 3 in one heating machine. 1. a charcoal maker, heats up wood to the point where it converts to charcoal. 2. burner gas generator. the flamable hydrocarbons released from the sun bleached wood (hite and crumbly, i got tonns of it literally, like moled plane wood), to make fire to reuse for a stove or heater, for something i may want to heat at the same time. 3. lead forge , for melting lead to fill my lead electrode molds, so i can electrolyze in sulfuric acid and then sell, or use, as lead dioxide electrodes for chlorate making etc. Now, butane and propane are completely unreasonable sources of heat, and too expensive as well, so i wanted to know, if the nichrome heating element inside a toaster or a hair dryer, could reach temperatures in excess of 330 degrees Celsius? i want to wrap the nichrome wire , around a steel crucible , separated by fiberglass of course to prevent the nichrome actually touchings the steel, so that when i apply power, the wire heats the steel (which will not be exposed to air) with the nichrome, and therefore heats whatever is inside the crucible , however, i want ti to also be able to reach temperatures in excess if 330 degrees Celsius, so that i can also melt lead. is this possible? otherwise, what kind of nichrome can i directly apply to 240v (wall output) assisted by large contacts for obvious reasons to do so. i know for a fact that nichrome drawing 5 watts is capable of melting lead, as i have melted lead before with my battery powers 5 watt soldering iron, which's soldering tip is a hollow piece of metal with nichrome inside. i want to be sure that this machine will work before i go and buy some second hand toaster or hair dryer at the dump shop. so, will it work? Ive seen hair dryer heating element used before to heat sodium hydroxide inside a steel crucible, in a sodium electrolysis cell, and it went over 320 degrees Celsius. i think. but i cant be sure. i still need a second opinion, thanks
Question by oldmanbeefjerky 7 years ago | last reply 2 years ago
Hello Everyone, I volunteer for a non-profit which distributes solar lanterns primarily to students as well as people who are in need of the lights. Things have been going well but a lot of people have inquired about us providing access to a higher powered version for various reasons and we've noticed that some households go back to their old ways when the lanterns don't receive enough sun during the day. Temporarily we are solving the problem by having local entrepreneurs charge batteries for the families for a small fee but we feel that this should not be a permanent solution. It's not the price that's the issue it's that sometimes the people have to walk for a number of kilometers to get to the nearest charging station or have to cross dangerous terrain (I have personally experienced this). Over the last 3 years we have helped over 5000 families by giving them solar lights so we would like to modify all those units to have more stable energy generation. Our current version has an output of 5 watts. We are looking to buy or build a unit which produces a maximum 8wh an hour until the fuel source runs out or something that can generate in a more slower rate such as 40wh in 16 hours so we can let it run overnight and have the power stored in a battery. We are primarily a donation driven group so something with low cost and maintenance would be really great. We highly subsidize the price to a large percentage of the households but we also provide them free for the lowest 10% of households who can't even afford the lowered price. I personally think that something which can generate electricity from hydrocarbons due to their high energy density and easy access would be ideal but I'm not an engineer so what do I know. I'm not sure if this helps in any way but a number of years ago we transitioned a large number of houses from wood fired stoves to gas and as all the families that we help actually have access to gas I was wondering if any good technology exists where electricity can be generated by gas that can meet the low cost and maintenance criteria. I've looked into thermoelectric generators but they are really inefficient and people will be wasting money to heat their house in a country where average temperatures are in the 30'sC I also see a future issue regarding battery degradation as we use small lead acid batteries and while thinking of a way to solve this I came up with the following idea and is one of the reasons that I'm posting on instructables. What if a pedal powered flywheel generator was built with a 200W generating capacity and 40Wh worth of 'storage'. When you pedal you will spin up the flywheel and it will store the energy until you need the electricity again and we could also wire up the solar panel that we already use to spin up the flywheel. So when the sun is out the panel is used and on rainy days and during the night you pedal for a couple of minutes for one hour of lights. If the flywheel can store the energy for a number of hours then someone could pedal for a couple of minutes at a time throughout the day and not have to do it at night. This is just an idea that I came up with and if anyone has any ideas I'll be really interested in knowing about it (obviously the above solution is not ideal because they have to put some work into generation but it's the best that I can do). I've quite recently been looking into different types of fuel cells powered by m/ethanol and others like solid oxide cells and they seem interesting (does anyone here have any experience in building these type of cells?). This community has a lot of intelligent members who think outside the box so I'm confident that we can come up with something. This ended up being a bit longer than expected and if you've read this far, thank you. I wasn't sure about what section to post this in, square peg is the one I chose out of 5 so if this is wrong please feel free to move it to the correct section. Help and advice will be very much appreciated. Kindest Regards
Topic by ragun8 5 years ago | last reply 5 years ago
I started to play around with some compressor cooling devices, otherwise known as fridges, freezers or airconditioners ;) As with everything it started with a lot of reading, some doing, more reading, well you get the point... Anyways, I am now running an old and portable split airconditioner on hydrocarbons instead of the already escaped R22 refrigerant. With all this experimenting I got reminded that my computer does not really like to do hard gaming work on these hot days. There are already a lot of infos out there on how to use water and/or heatpipes to cool your system. One thing that they all have in common is that you need a chiller to cool the water. Now, there are really tons of options here - from using an old bar fridge to hold the water up to big direct chillers that can be used 24/7 and cost a small fortune. Here in Victoria the weather might be more forgiving but up north the humidity will be your main enemy if you want to use any decent cooling system. Imagine 90% humitiy and the water condensing on pipes and coolers inside your computer... Some systems compensate here by using a temp of around 12°C at the lowest to minimise the risk of condensation. But I think we can do better for cheaper if we are willing to get dirty and salvage some scrap. If it also a great way to protect your computer in a dusty and hot workshop enviroment! Let me explain the thought: Considering the costs for a decent air cooled system over the expense for just a basic water cooling kit it might be worth spending the extra money otherwise. What makes a normal and not overclocked computer go too hot assuming it is clean and free from dust? Right - the outside temperature and how hard we actually use it. Normal systems are designed to work at a room temp between 18 and 24°C, we are often lucky to have it under 30 in the summer. Getting a CPU to just under 70° if the outside air is already over 30° is hard if not impossible. But what if the computer would be in one of these fancy server rooms that are kept at 16° throughout the year? Problem solved, just win the lottery to get your server room build. Step back a bit and think again ;) If we make an additional and well insulated enclosure to put the computer in we would only need to worry about making it pretty much air tight and keeping the inside always under 20°C. Now follow me to my imaginary shopping trip... First step is getting a decent sized cooler box - you can build your own of course I would go for these oversizes Esky chests. Next step is a visit to the local hard rubbish collection or scrap yard. We look for a bar fridge or water cooling tower that has a condenser that will fit on the side or back of our cooling box. Prefer something old running on R22 instead of R134a if you can. If the system already has one or two service ports for filling even better, otherwise see you get one from a different fridge or freezer. The fun starts back home where we now make a big mess. The cooling system needs to come apart and if not a tower the fridge around it has to go without damaging pipes or condensers. Perfect would be to have a working system and to keep it in this condition to avoid the illegal escape or refrigerant. It also make it easier than having to refill it again. On the other hand getting a system that is already professionally evacuated as most scrap yards now do anyway can make the modding easier - up to your skill set and options to have the system checked and filled. Once we have a naked cooling system we get the cold side into the cooler box. Either by creating a slot to slide it in or by feeding the hoses through holes if you plan to do your own thing in terms of testing and filling. The compressor part and "hot side" are mounted securely to the outside of the box. If you still have the thermostat working and connected you can now check your homebuild fridge. To get the computer inside you have several option, IMHO the easiest is use one big enough hole to get all cables to the outside. You want this hole to end up as airtight as possible, I found candle wax to be a good sealer if you place some painters tape on the box first. So far this was the easy part, the hard part is now to make sure the humidity inside the box stays as low as possible. When the compressor starts cooling the evaporator will go to very low temperatures, even if you set the thermostat to 10° the cold side will condese or even freeze the moisture in the air. Unlike with direct cooling option inside your computer we now have a "cold trap" outside the coputer that we use to our advantage! Easiest option here is to have a catchment under the cold side to collect the condensing water and to let it discharge through a small tube to the outside. Once the system was operating for a few days there should be no moisture left inside our box unless it is not properly sealed. At this point you could be tempted to just set the thermostat to the coldest possible - I advise against it! Imagine the inside of the box is below freezing - the capacitors won't like it to start with and since we now have all surface subcooled the moisture can condense everywhere not warm enough, including your mainboard. A temp of around 10°C should be more than enough for normal gaming and gives the compressor a chance to turn off every now and then so any ice can drop off and exit. If you like the idea use it and make a featured Instructable out of it, my time is too limited at the moment to get serious with this.
Topic by Downunder35m 2 years ago | last reply 2 years ago