Five "solutions" for global warming

Who needs to worry about cutting back carbon emissions or sequestration when you can just launch a rocket into the atmosphere loaded with sulfur to simulate a volcanic eruption? Or what about making trees shinier? Then again you can always try to cover the glaciers.These are all ideas that have been put out there to save us from ourselves, but almost sound like we're trying to kill ourselves off even faster. Especially that sulfur rocket bit.Check out these five techniques on the green fringes. Where do you think any of this effort should be going? 5 Strange Stop-Gap "Solutions" to Climate Problems

Posted by fungus amungus 10 years ago


Whay arent yo watching the Superbowl, pre game, and hype?

 I can't stand football. I'd much rather be here, with the exception of the commercials, of course. So, as I hear the hype, pre game, and other nonsense going on in the back ground, I'd rather surf around and goof on the computer.   What about you?  Feel free to post any nonsense or general gripes on the sport. Such as: Its a brutal sport that people get paid to risk mind, body, and spirit on with little other than monetary gain and a brief shot at fame.

Posted by onrust 5 years ago


pumpkin carvings :P

Well I got a little hyped up for halloween and I carved the first pumpkin for this year :D. I think it came out pretty great. (unfortunately it will probably wither and die before halloween in two weeks)

Posted by Shadowmang 9 years ago


books

Stupid people & the media hype, cause books to get banned. Well me & a couple of people I know noticed that these "blacklisted" books are becoming harder & harder to find. you guys know the type I'm talking about "FOR IMFORMATIONAL USE ONLY". I have a couple, looking for a pdf version of a book by "seymour lecker".

Posted by toxic5 10 years ago


Juno Anyone?

Has anyone seen the movie Juno yet? lol I thought it was a nice little movie, but i found it over-hyped! There wasn't much of Michael Cera, ( which i found was a dissopointment ), and I didn't think it was a "comedy" more of a , little [touching] story. The burger phone was awsome lol. Anyways there's my rant.... How did you guys find it ?

Posted by Baron A 10 years ago


Where can i see the origin of my Instructables's views ?

Hello everyone, i'm actually getting a little hype and i'm curious to know where does it come from. I remember i could check where my views come from (from Facebook,Thingiverse,the Instrcutables homepage,...) .Do you know if this feature is not available anymore ?Thank you !

Posted by JackCarter 6 months ago


Duncan's Easy, Random Pistol

Meh, I was on a building spree and kept morphing a gun until I eventually came to this. After I was all done, I finally realized that I pretty much wasted my time because I accomplished nothing. Meh, it's a cool and different gun nonetheless, but it's nothing to get hyped over either. I was bored so I made a video for it anyways seeing how I haven't done that in a while. Enjoy. <br>

Posted by TheDunkis 7 years ago


Commercial Steam Powered iPod (USB) Charger: Poll

I am interested to see how many people would buy a steam powered iPod or USB charger. It would come with a boiler, engine and generator, as well as a USB charger with interchangeable fuses ext for different voltage. Please Reply to let me know what you think A kickstarter campaign may follow if there is enough hype. If anybody knows a website for polls or surveys, please let me know.

Posted by Mutant Tortoise 4 years ago


Arduino VS. OOPIC

Recently I have been seeing a lot of hype about the Arduino. But whatever happened to the OOPIC? I have an OOPIC and I love it! It has got to be the best microcontroller I have ever used. But am I using something outdated? Is it obsolete? What is the big deal about the Arduino? It seems I never here OOPIC any more. So if anyone can answer my questions, or at least tell me why everyone is using the Arduino, it would help me out. I guess I don't get the concept of the Arduino.

Posted by gimmelotsarobots 10 years ago


Expos and Conventions !!

So do you , people of instructables, attend any Expos or media conventions. I've never been at one but i'm considering going this year to the London MCM Expo in May (24-25). It's basically a media convention with preveiws of upcoming hyped films and unknown Blockbusters. Also it has a huge section for comics where you can buy manga and animies for a quite cheap price. Last but not least, it has sections covering video game releases and what not. So I might go since it only happens every 2 years. Does anything like this Expo happen where you live? And have you ever been?

Posted by Baron A 10 years ago


3D Printshow | London-Paris-New York

Hey guys, I'm based in London, and I'm also a real newb when it comes to 3D printing tech despite having been fascinated by it for a few years. I'm particularly art-interested, so for me 3D Printing is exciting because of the creative/social potential.  I'm not blessed with the ability to understand the engineering/programming side of the industry, but I'm really into conferences and events where we can talk about the implications. I was wondering if any of you have been to /seen/heard of 3D Printshow - its recently gone global which bodes well for a good event, but I've not seen/heard that much hype and wondered if anyone here knew much. http://3dprintshow.com/ :-) Most-D

Posted by Most-D 5 years ago


WOOHOO!

I got a new knex set today. I got the double-sawblade ride. Now I get a whole **** load of blue rods, yellow rods, gray rods, and especially red rods (I only had 6 red rods before I got this set.)And I get much more yellow, white, blue, green, and gray connectors too. I think I may be able to build the sear rifle I have been hyping up in the chatroom for some time now. but This isnt really an end to my part limitations. I did not get a whole lot of short green rods, and the connectors only took one bag. Now my 550 tub is overflowing with the knex parts I have.Double sawblade is a good part booster.

Posted by DJ Radio 9 years ago


Greener Posturers - Hacking through the biodegradable, zero-carbon, ecochic overhype.

Here's a fun article from the New York Magazine.http://nymag.com/news/features/33157/Let's see: Green is the new black. Green is the new red, white, and blue. And green is the new green, or at least a new means of getting people to plunk down more of it. To some, the "green consumer" is an oxymoron (they might even drop the "oxy"). The real solution, they say, is to consume less. While there's some truth to this, a Walden-or-bust approach seems ill-suited to our present culture. Greed and vanity are alive and well; if they can be enlisted in the fight to save the planet, who are we to turn them away? With green-hype alert levels recently upgraded to orange, skepticism is warranted; here, our fictional sparring partners examine some well-intentioned products that mainly serve the buyers' self-esteem, and others that have unsuspected depths.

Posted by ewilhelm 11 years ago


SR Commando v1- NOW POSTED!

I have been hyping this gun up in the chatroom for a bit, so I got a pic today.This is A combo of my 2 best knex guns I ever built- The AR-4 Commando v2, and the Longbow v2. I made it mostly for the innovative ideas it brought, but i wanted to see if it was possible to combine the AR-4 v2 and Longbow v2.This gun uses an extremely reliable BRAND NEW sear system trigger which never misfires or jams, I thought of making a double-ratchet system and put it in a super modded Longbow handle. The stock Is an uber modded AR-4 commando stock. Same thing with the barrel.It is a single shot, but it can have a mag. Range is 40-50 feet (one rubbeband).the second pic is a close up of the mech.The only con I can think of atm is that this gun is sorta skeletony at the bottom. But its extremely sturdy neverthelessOk, I changed the name because I thought it would be less confusing and more appropriate.

Posted by DJ Radio 9 years ago


Thank you all Product Hackers who have helped me out :)

I am writing a paper about design hackers, and I need as many people as possible to answer these questions below. Please cope paste the questions before you write down the answers, thank you so much for the help in advance!!! 1. Since when is product hacking a hobby for you and why did you start? 2. What kind of products do you hack, is there a practical preference based on your interest/need for certain modifications? 3. Why do you do it, why not just buy the things you need without having to modify anything? 4. Why do you think the (design)product hacking community has become so lively the past decade? 5. How do you think (design)product hacking is received by product designers? 6. Is (design) product hacking in your eyes a hype or will it evolve and create even bigger communities and become more influential to the design market (If so, try to explain its expected influence)?

Posted by kirstentb 5 years ago


Knex block triggers

Why is everyone so hyped up about knex block triggers, you dont have to go to the block trigger instructibles. If you do go to thier instructible you dont have to tell them thier gun sucks. This whole knex gun thing started out as block triggers.Back then Every one liked them and almost every instructible was block trigger. When oodulumps, Mepain, and all the other good knex builders came in,they started making all this cool stuff that was different than block triggers. After they posted all the cool stuff they had going on, new people came in ,and got inspired to make knex guns. They wanted to post thier guns , so they did. And now that all the older people are so tired of block triggers, they send bad comments to people who are new to knex guns. Which I think is wrong because they are at the level of knex guns that we used to be at one year ago. They only difference is that they came later, and dont know as much as we do. If anyone disagrees with my opinion please comment on why you disagree. Sorry if I had any misspelled words in this forum, or if you did not understand. Please tell me if you do not understand and I will fix that.Thank you for reading.

Posted by fobblewabble 11 years ago


Extreme Futurist Festival 2012

The END OF THE WORLD at www.extremefuturistfestival.com the VORTEX IMMERSION DOME 450 South Bixel Street, Los Angeles, CA 90017 featuring SURVIVAL RESEARCH LABORATORIES show Extreme Futurist Festival is a 2 day arts and technology festival focusing on radical voices of the new evolution. Last year we had a great event and were called "a TED conference for the counterculture" by the LA Weekly. This year we seek to make XFF an even more epic experience. People are going insane over the Mayan calendar hype about the world ending on 12/21/12. This is why we have decided to bring them the apocalypse they deserve. We are throwing an end-of-the-world conference that you will not forget. Children get in free. We will be focusing on cutting edge science and technology along with transgressive performance art and music. Showcasing the most innovative and subversive memetics of our time, we see to highlight an extreme future that breaks the formula of modern culture. The future has been commodified by the mainstream in an effort to make revolutionary technologies easy to digest. As a result we are now living in an era of complacency, in which the true leaders and game changers are made to feel like outsiders. It is time to rise against the dominant current of our society and declare that nothing is too extreme. We refuse to be assimilated into a carbon copied version of a new humanity. As evolutionary agents we will push the boundaries of what it means to transform our species. XFF is organized by Rachel Haywire, Christopher Jannette, and Sean Humphries.

Posted by devilDroid 5 years ago


Myths and Truths of the 3D Printing

Yesterday I readed a very interesting article on wired.com, named "An Insider’s View of the Myths and Truths of the 3-D Printing ‘Phenomenon’", by Carl Bass, CEO of Autodesk. "But Mario!" - you (one of the only four persons who read my forum topics) will say - "What happened to you? It was supposed you were one of us, one of the last sexy hammer-in-hand/sweat-in-the-forehead makers, who build everything with bolts and nuts and screwdrivers, Yes, it's a little bit annoying that 99% of your projects are vibrobots, planters and cyborgs. But at least, you only used the computer for checking your e-mail and looking for stuff that would horrify your mother. Now you only talk about 3D printers and CAD and support material. YOU SOLD YOUR SOUL THE TIME YOU DOWNLOADED 123D DESIGN!". And my answer is "... maaaayyyybe. Can you repeat the question? No hablo inglés". But this is a cool article that demystifies a lot of ideas we have about 3D printing. Thanks to the media, we think everything will be 3D printed, the handtools will become museum pieces and metallurgy and craftsmanship will have the same fate of the alchemy. Or we think 3D printers are magical boxes that immediately fulfill all of our design desires, no matter how dark they are (Do you want to become a criminal and lead a rebellion? SHAZAM! Homemade one-shot 3D printed non-always-exploding guns for everyone!). Ok, enough blablabla. Read the article. It was written for somebody who knows. And believe it or not, Carl Bass is another "hammer-in-hand/sweat-in-the-forehead" maker. Enjoy! http://www.wired.com/opinion/2013/05/an-insiders-view-of-the-hype-and-realities-of-3-d-printing/

Posted by M.C. Langer 5 years ago


What 3D printers can do... and what they can't

3D printers have seen insane amounts of attention in the past year with lots of stories coming out about how amazing they are. How they can make replacement parts for anything that breaks. How they’ll revolutionize manufacturing. How everyone will have one and they’ll do everything that you need ever. Long story short, 3D printers are pretty amazing, but they aren’t quite the miracle on a stick that the hype is pushing them to be. So let’s sift through and see what there really is to get excited about right now. Consumer 3D printers AKA what most people will be using The 3D printing that’s available to consumers right now is fused deposition modeling or FDM. These printers build up a model layer by layer by extruding ABS or PLA into the build area. It’s basically a much fancier version of a glue gun. A tiny glue gun controlled by a computer, that is. These 3D printers typically run $1k - $2k, but smaller ones can be had for as little as $200. The MakerBot Replicator 2 is the most popular printer of this kind, but there are dozens of others to choose from as well. With some fiddling and work you can pretty much print any shape that fits inside the build volume. So if the printer can fit it, you can make it. That’s simplifying it a bit (OK, a lot), but that’s the idea, and it’s a very cool idea. After some practice you can learn how to design new things like jewelry, ornaments, or toys. Since everything is printed out you can customize any piece that you’d like. Take a couple hours to learn 123D Design and you’ll start to have new things to print out. That’s the power of 3D printing right there. You can quickly go from an idea to a design and then to reality. Your skills in making things by hand don’t matter here. This is why it’s so amazingly helpful to use a 3D printer for prototyping your ideas. I recently worked on a flash drive case and the first model took about 2 minutes to design. After that it was about 15 minutes to print out on a Replicator 2. Then I tested it and adjusted the design for another print. I repeated the process a few times and within 2 hours I had a file that I was happy with. This is even better considering that I only spent about 20 minutes of those 2 hours actively working. The rest was spent on other non-related work. All about the materials So that’s the power of 3D printing. With services like 3D Creation Systems you can upload your file and get it printed on much fancier machines with better resolution. There’s no immediate gratification, but you still get a high-quality print quickly and access to more materials. Even with this expanded selection of printing materials, it’s still a very limited selection. If we were just to look at all the plastics out there we’d be here for days. There are thousands of them and that’s just plastics. There’s also wood and metal and more beyond that. Each different material in this insanely huge selection has a different quality to it. I’ve seen countless people print out items in ABS or PLA and complain about how their printer must not be working since the printed piece doesn’t work like the original. But of course we can’t recreate every item out there with a couple kinds of plastic. It's about using 3D printing with other tools The key forward in using 3D printing is to use it as an amazing new tool of forming great pieces to work alongside all the other great items and materials out there. Why bother making a weak spring out of plastic when you can drop in a metal spring? So 3D printing isn’t everything, but it can be used alongside most everything. It can get us where we want to go so much faster than before it’s ridiculous. But it’s still not the miracle on a stick, not the only tool we’ll ever need from here on out. When the hype dies down we won’t be looking on at amazement at something being 3D printed, we’ll be looking at lots of awesome new things that were made faster with the help of 3D printing. And that is going to be incredible.

Posted by fungus amungus 5 years ago


Talking about my Summer

I have to admit that I was skeptical before starting my Residency at Instructables. I never felt comfortable calling myself a "Maker" and here I was, walking into the belly of the beast at Pier 9. I felt like the term "Maker" was starting to read as cold, technical, robotic and...frankly...stuff really geared towards young boys. I felt as though I was coming into the program as a spy, an outsider looking to infiltrate and be critical of the hype around 3D printing. My project was really my attempt to talk openly about how I felt about these things in a way that people who design and use these machines might take notice. I was expecting to walk into an office full of dudes that wanted to make crazy things just because they could but I was created by quite another experience. The other AiRs were all interesting, questioning, infiltrating. The entire company was full of creative, open-minded, artsty folk and I can't tell you how good it felt to be in the electronics lab one day with all these different amazing and creative women coming in and out. I end my residency (the full-time part anyway) with a different attitude and the realization that people are pretty open-minded, excited and down-right nice! I never imagined people would go to the lengths they did just to help see the project along and it felt great to help and encourage others to see their ideas though. I think I leave the summer with a few new friends. On my presentation day, I felt like I wanted people to sign my year-book - it's that kind of place.   My favorite thing about the residency was also made the residency difficult. The space and people are so interesting and engaging that conversations start all the time. It's so great, but also makes it really hard to get work done! There is so much going on that its hard to stay on top of what people are working on - especially with the residents that aren't around everyday. It would be interesting to find ways to facilitate feedback and collaboration in different ways. We do an exercise in a class I help with at Berkeley where people put their projects on the wall and the other students add post-its with feedback. Maybe if we had a wall like that in the Air-ea it could be a way to keep tabs of all the work and also give short snippets of feedback without interrupting someone's flow. It wouldn't be a way to replace other ways of sharing what we're working on, but a sounding board for just quick, "have you seen X" kind of ideas.  I can't say thank you enough. I had a great, productive summer and I'm excited to be sticking around for a bit longer and seeing the new AiRs that come in and out. I would (and have) recommend the program to anyone - it was a really wonderful experience!

Posted by ldevendorf 3 years ago


Oodassault 3.7

Yeah, I've done this too much. 3 different models, 7 revisions for this model alone, 2 already posted. The 3.6 was satisfactory but I noticed there were still some problems for some people and it required some tweaking to make sure it worked right even though it was pretty reliable when it was set up right. This one is a lot more user friendly. I changed up some things so it's guaranteed to work without all the tweaking. It was just a few minor mods really. You won't probably catch any changes from the image alone at first so I'm obviously going to list them. -The simplest but probably most effective is adding another light grey in the middle above the magazine. At first I had a gap there to make stripper clip loading easier. However, it made the ammo shoot up a little higher and sometimes would cause it to spin out faster. I also suspect this may have been the reason a second round would be dragged out if the magazine wasn't set up right. -There's a green rod and spacer wedged in between the bottom of the magazine where the tilt bands are placed so that it doesn't squish the mag pusher. This allows for a weaker rubber band on the pusher so there's less chance of it exploding. -I changed how the the magazine rests against the rest of the gun by using mini knex adapters. I'm not sure if this is required as far as reliability goes but I suspect that it may have been why some people's guide rods were shot off. The magazine tilted in ever so slightly but just enough for the ammo to catch the rod. The mini K'nex also have a larger gap so it's a little easier to slide ammo in. Not too much of a difference but hey, whatever works. -The one you guys probably will like best. I changed the tilter just a little. It requires a rubber band to stay up but I didn't think it was a big deal. It allows the magazine to tilt out farther and the red connector can grip around an orange connector on the trigger guard in such a way that it takes some of the stress off your finger. This means you can use more tension on the magazine to make sure it stays shut without wearing out your finger. -Finally, I knew this for a bit but decided I'd finally show you that you can use green rods instead of white rods on the top middle three holes (the bottom pairs and the front and back pairs would be required to keep the gun sturdy). You can use green rods then instead of black Ys to block the green rods in the holes. I used this method for a simple rail like thingy and added a custom sight. It's more for looks than function but it actually works quite well. So yeah that's it. Between all the mods, it's guaranteed to work perfectly now as far as I know. Nothing has gone wrong since building the gun with everything changed. No magazine explosions, double shots, or anything that would otherwise be undesirable. Also, it's a little more accurate and gets a bit more range I'm guessing thanks to slightly more stable ammo. I'm not trying to make this sound super hyped. You should just know that I come from a long line of descendants whose ancestors built the Great Wall of China.

Posted by TheDunkis 8 years ago


iPad Problems - 14 Problems with Apple's iPad

Apple just revealed the new Apple iPad Tablet that will probably make it one of the first failures by Apple's latest line of products. Apple revealed this new Tablet PC as a challenger to netbooks. However, it's already been labeled a "less powerful, but more expensive netbook." Here are 14 iPad problems that made this Apple iPad an iDisappointment. 1. No Multitasking The Apple iPad is just like the iPhone, in that there is no multitasking. You can't work on a document and talk on AIM or Gtalk. In other words, the iPad just a giant iPod Touch (the iPod Touch being better) and cannot match netbooks. 2. It Has an Awkward Design The design is a bit awkward because you have to hold it in one hand and balance it while your other hand uses the functionality or more likely you will need to put it on your knees to use it properly. It's like holding a monitor, I'm sure nothing will happen to it. Some people complain about the Bezel being too large, but perhaps this was necessary so that you don't constantly give commands while moving around. 3. No Adobe Flash Were you considering watching Hulu on this? How about youtube (well we'll have to wait for an app for that)? Thinking of playing flash games while waiting on the bus? Oh well. 4. No USB, Need Adapters Again with the iPod design, you need to plug in the special Apple adapter. If you lose it, you'll have to buy another. If you want to plug in multiple devices you need USB to iPad adapters! Since it's not even using Mac OS, most USB devices would probably not work anyway. 5. AT&T; Once Again Are you thinking of purchasing the 3G version? You'll need to get it with AT&T; and think of how overloaded their service will be now. There is no Verizon, T-Mobile, or Sprint service available for this product, some of which has better coverage. You can't use T-Mobile's 3G at all because of their MicroSIM made specifically for AT&T.; 6. Memory Business Model Apple will charge you extra for higher memory. It's a business model they use for all their products to increase profits. That's why they don't want other storage devices being inserted to improve memory. You're also stuck with a limit of 64GB, so don't think about putting in all your music, movies, or games. 7. Touch Keyboard Many people were complaining about the touchscreen keyboard. Which would be fine if it worked perfectly and you didn't have to sit it exactly on your lap and make sure it's flat. You can however, attach an Apple keyboard, just another way for Apple to make money. 8. App Store Again Just like the iPod Touch you have to download everything from an App store. Meaning if you don't like Safari, you're stuck with it. Some apps may be banned once again. 9. No Cameras Yeah no web cams on the front, and no cameras for photos or videos from the back either. 10. No Removable Battery You can't just take an extra battery with you on a long trip because the battery works the same way as an iPod (though my bet is, it doesn't last as long). 11. No HDMI/DVI Output You can't plug this thing into your TV to display your HD movies. You'd need AppleTV for that. 12. No Widescreen 16:9 ain't happening, you're stuck with a 4:3 screen. 13. No GPS There's no GPS, so --unlike the T-Mobile MyTouch or the Verizon Droid which both run on Android, can multitask and have GPS so that you can use the Beta Google Maps Navigation system for turn-by-turn directions-- you're stuck with locating yourself via WiFi hotspots. 14. It's Large, Slow, and Clunky Not only will you have to buy accessories to protect your device, it's very large making it easy to drop and probably won't live a healthy life in a backpack filled with notebooks and other possibly sharp objects. There may be a number of accessories sold by Apple to cover some of these problems. The iPad max speed is 1GHz (A4 processor) and will probably be just as slow surfing the web as most other smartphones and it won't match up to netbooks. There is no Mac OS X or anything either, it's definitely the iPhone OS except without the Phone capability and of course I'm sure they will ban Google Voice and Skype. The iPad is about the size of a Kindle, so it is nice for reading e-books I suppose, but then I'm not sure why I wouldn't just buy a Kindle. As with all companies that initially have much success, they get a little overconfident and launch a product just to create more hype and increase their stock prices.   More related iPad Problem resources: ipad wiki - What you need to know about iPad The iPad is a tablet computer developed by Apple Inc. Announced on January 27, 2010, it is similar in functionality to the iPhone and iPod touch, running the same operating system (iPhone OS) and almost all of the same applications...

Posted by newstigers 8 years ago


Zombie RPG / D&D Style Game

For ZSDW: I've been in the zombie hype for awhile, (about a year ago,) and after finishing a couple of Zplans, I decide it would be fun to kill some zombies with dice and statistics. Alas, this is quite the beta, and it generally uses d6's, as well as some skewed grammar and stats. First things first. You are not a specified character. You have no character sheet, you have no special abilites. The following few paragraph will explain a few confusing things, and give hints on how your location will affect your game. Then, there will basic weapon stats. Later, there will be about how zombies affect you, and what kinds of zombies there are, and their health. You will also learn how you can scrounge for stuff from bodies.  Subdivide means to roll for what section it is applicable for. Say your about to go into a room, you would roll for SURVIVOR and ZACH Room check. Say you get a four(4). That means there is something in the room. You would then decide if it was locked. (Unnecessary, but for extra gameplay, most are going to be locked. Hit the lock with something, and roll for it's regular attack. If the attack is successful, you broke the lock. If not, well, you may have to literally blow up the door, or say that you cannot go into the room.) Let's say no lock for times sake. Now, you know something/someone is in there. Subdivide by rolling what it is. Second line of Survivor and Zach Room Check shows this. Luckily, you roll a one(1). That means a Military person is in the room. They can have Assault Rifles, Submachine Guns, Rifles with Scoped subclass, And Scatterguns with the Breacher Barrel subclass. You can only find them in Military bases, Start Variable Location:Warzone, or ALERTNESS Yellow or higher. When moving through a house, roll for room encounters. You may roll for how many rooms you must go through,( If I roll 5, I need to go through 5 rooms before getting out, or to destination around/in house) so you must roll for encounters/room searches while in those rooms.(You would roll 5 times in this case for People and Zach Room check rolls.)  In a house, you may roll for RUN, so 1-2 success, and go to the next room. 4-6, unsuccessful, roll for Scratch. (1-3 Scratched, 4-6 safe.)   ALERTNESS is just a guide for what zombies are available to kill. The ALERTNESS bar is unnecessary; however it adds another angle to the game. It is at the back of this guide.  Ideas, Tips and Otherwise: Tanks, APCs, Pickups, convenience stores, Molotov Cocktail, Improvised weapons, have some fun, and add to this game! Make up some weapons, apply variable splash damage, and just make sure you kill some Zach!   Your start variables should be placed on a separate sheet, for reference. Say for location you picked rainforest/jungle, (your geography, weather, and season fits that description.) you will need/want to roll for Scratches more. (For realism, generally, there will be more crawlers, same with Aristriked Urban.) Same for Urban, and Airstriked-Urban, (Broken buildings, rubble, etc.) or Warzone. (More military personnel. Tanks? Have some fun! :)  START VARIABLES (At the top of the game sheet.) Location: Geography: Weather: Season: # Zach's: Zach's Location: Population Density: Specialized Setting: Attack Rolls: Locks (Y/N): Scratch (Y/N): Alertness Level (Y/N): Supplies (Y/N): Leg Break (Y/N): Travel Days (Y/N):   Supplies is a form of food, ammunition, and other necessary items for a single day. Each survivor in your current group takes 1 supply per day. Supplies can be found by subdividing if your preceding ROOM SEARCH roll is 1-2. If Travel Days is active/applicable, your group takes only 4 supplies per day, individual people in your group do not take any supplies, and you cannot be attacked by Z's. Travel Days are good if you have more than 4 people in your group, and have low health, or need to get somewhere. BITES are fatal, you take 3 supplies when bitten, then the following day you become a Z. Your group can take your weapons. SCRATCH'S are non-fatal; you take 2 supplies for 3 days. (7supplies, because of the one you took the day you were bitten, then the 6 you will take for the following days.) For all melee attacks, roll for bone breaks. 1-2 break, 3-5 Scratched, 6 safe. Scratch disables RANGED and FIREARMS attacks. For disabled, or failed melee attacks, 1-2 = arms, or arm, 3-4 =legs, or leg, 5-6 = chest or neck break. A Neck Break Disable turns Zach melee attacks to 2 bitten, 1 and 3 scratched, 4-6 safe. Arms/Legs breaks decreases that zombies fighting ability to 2 bitten, 1 and 3 scratched, 4-5 safe, 6 breaks leg of human.  When a human has a leg broken, he/she takes two supplies per day, and halves the amount of current PTD. (Play Time per Day)   To determine the time a day takes to complete, roll for the PTD, or Play Time per Day. This is found by rolling a 6 sided dice, then multiplying the number on the dice by 3. This is approximately how long a "day" is in the ZRPG, in minutes. You will need a watch or timer to play this game, if you want to apply PTD.  FIREARMS Scattergun(Shotgun) = 1-3 hit, 4-6 miss, Melee 1-4 hit, 5-6 disabled. RANGE:3 This affects a maximum of 3 Zs. Roll for 1-2 1 Zach affected, 3-4 2 Zach affected, 5-6 3 Zach affected. Sub-Class: Breacher Barrel, 1-2 hit, instant death upon Z's, breaches locked doors/drywall (Apartments, this happens if you like to shoot stuff, or the lock you just suck at opening wont unlock,). Pistol = 1-4 hit, 5-6 miss. RANGE: 4 Melee 1-3 hit, 4-6 failed, if failed, roll for scratches, Z is disabled if successful hit. Subdivide for disable type. RANGE: 1 Sub-Class: Laser, 1-5 hit, 6 miss. RANGE: 5 Rifle = 1-4 hit, 5-6 miss. RANGE: 10 Melee 1-2 hit, instant kill, 3-5 disabled, 6 scratched. RANGE: 2 Sub-Class: Sighting-Laser, 1-4 hit, 5 miss, 6 disable. RANGE: 12.  Bayonet, see knife attack roll. Scope, 1-9 successful on 12 sided die. RANGE: 16 Assault Rifle = 1-4 hit, 5 miss, 6 instant kill or disable, you pick. RANGE: 14 Sub-Class: Grenade Launcher, 1-4, instant 4 Z's kill, when applicable. 5-6 miss Blows open walls/doors, when you fail  assault rifle as a prerequisite to use a grenade launcher. Sub-Machine gun: 1-4 hit, 5-6 miss. Has a three round burst, you can hit a Z 3 times, or 3 Z’s 1 time each, or any combination thereof. Sub-Class:   BLUNTS Crowbar = 1-4 hit, 5-6 miss. Sub-Class: N/A 2x4 = 1-4 hit, 5-6 miss. Sub-Class: Additional Spike/Nail 1-4 hit, 5-6 miss, roll for instant kill, or instant disable. Sheet Metal Tipped, instant disable 1-4, 5-6 miss. Bat = 2-5 hit, 1 and 6 miss. Sub-Class:Aluminum Bat, 1-3 and 6 hit, 4 bat bends (You cannot use the bat anymore)                                        5 miss, instant disable if hit is successful.                    Steel Bat 2-5 hit, 1 and 6 miss, instant kill if hit is true. Sledgehammer = 1-3 hit, 4-6 miss, roll for Scratch if hit is false, insant disable/kill, subdivide for odd/even. You cannot attack next round, but you can use a secondary. Sub-Class: Industrial size, 1-5 hit, 6 miss, instant kill, Scratch if miss. You can only use this once per battle, however at the cost of a Scratch, you may use it again.   SHARPS Axe = 1-2 hit, 3-6 miss, instant kill. You can only use this once per battle, however at the cost of a Scratch, you may use it again. Sub-Class:Double Sided axe, 1-3 hit, kills 2 Z's. You may use this twice on your turn, You can only use this once per battle, however at the cost of a Scratch, you may use it again. Hatchet = Melee, 1-4 hit, 5-6 miss, Thrown, 1-2 hit, 3-6 miss, if hit, roll = 1-3, disabled, 4-6 instant kill Sword = 1-3 hit, 4-6 miss. Instant disable, or roll for instant kill, 1 and 6 instant kill, 2-5 disable. Sub-Class: Knife =1-2 eye stab, instant kill. 3-4 disable. 5-6 miss. If miss, roll for 1-4 scratched, 5-6 bitten. Thrown 1-4 hit, instant disable. 5-6 miss. When you successfully instant kill or disable a zombie, you lose your knife. Sub-Class: Improvised weapon w/ rifle. 1-4 instant kill,  5-6 disable.   RANGED Bow and Arrow =1-3 hit, 5-4 disabled, 6 miss. Sub-Class: Bomb Arrows,1-4 instant death. Fire Arrows 1-4 hit, roll again, 1-3 immolates Z's, 4-6 damages torso. See Molotov Cocktail effects. Molotov Cocktail = 1-5 hit, 6 immolated, dies 3 days. Buildings burn 3 days. Sub-Class:Alcohol Bomb, 1-6 hit, no misses. 2 Alcohol Bombs kill a Z, 2 days. Starts building fire.   Room Search Rolls: WEAPON SEARCH: 1 = FIREARMS, Subdivide for type, pistols and scatters only 2-4 = SHARP, 5 = BLUNT,  6 = RANGED, no Crossbows/Archers Bow. ITEM SEARCH: 1-2 = Supplies, when applicable. This is probably CVS's Walgreens, SURVIVOR and ZACH ROOM CHECK: For a room check, use a d20.  1-4 Z-Encounter, 6-9 survivor, 10-15 nothing, 16-20 supplies. If you roll 16-20, roll a d6. You gain supplies equal to the number on the d6. For a zombie encounter, roll a d6 for number of Z's   AWARENESS LEVELS L. Green = Near None                                   Civilian Known Only Green = Slight                                                  Civilian Known Only, possible Police help. D. Green = LOW                                              Slight Media Coverup,                  L.Yellow = Less than medium                     More Media, Local Police Intervention Yellow = MEDIUM                                         Full Media, Government Denying D. Yellow = Less than HIGH                         Supressed Media By Government L. Orange = slightly less than HIGH         National Crisis Orange = HIGH                                              Class 4 Outbreak, Zero Government, nearly full world infected. Black = Finished game                                             The world is destroyed and there are zero humans left on earth. Zombies are the dominant species now. They will walk the earth, scrounging, trying to fill the hole that can never be filled. Good job, how could you let this happen?   Z's or Zach Types   These zombies are put where applicable. Normal Zachs, and Fat Zachs are found everywhere.   If you miss while attacking a Z, subdivide if they hit you. If you are hit by a Z, you become one in 1 day. You take 3 supplies for that day, if applicable. 1-4 Z bites you, 5 they Scratch you, 6 is miss.   Normal Zach’s = 1 hits to kill apply infection normally.(Found in AWARENESS level: Near none) Fat Zach’s = 2 hits to kill, lower bite rolls to 1 bitten, 2-6 safe.(Found in AWARENESS level: near none) Mil Zach’s = 4 hits with FIREARMS and RANGED, 3 hits melee. (Found in AWARENESS level: Less than medium) Martyrdom Zach’s = 2 hits to kill, only found in churches, monasteries, temples, etc. (You may pickup pistols and knives only from these. Subdivide, 1-4 none, 5 pistol, 6 knife) Quislings = 2 hits kill, if bitten, do NOT roll for infection! If you are hit by a Quisling, you use 2 supplies for 1 week. PD(Police)Zombies = 4 hits kill, You may pick up Pistols and Scatterguns from them Subdivide, 1-3 pistol, 4 none, 5-6 scattergun. 

Posted by PKTraceur 8 years ago


UV filtration in your fish tank or small fish pond

Year after year the topic "I have a fish tank" seems to go more out of control. What was once a hobby just to have some fish can now be a design feature both in your home and inside the tank. Realistic looking lasdscapes, optical illusions that make you think the tank is much bigger and the list goes on. But one thing that now always pops up is the must have thing of UV filtration. Or to be precise: UV-C sterilisation! Now, if we trust Wiki and our big water suppliers then UV-C will literally kill anything alive that comes into contact with. So of course it would be a good thing to have for your tank - or not? UV-C is very dangerous for your eyesight and quite harmful for your skin! Looking into a proper UV-C lamp without protection means you can go blind! Even good sunglasses might not have enough protection in the UV-C range, so only use them for additional protection but never without and glass between you and the lamp! Don't be a fool! Treat UV-C seriously! You would not look into the full sun with your sunglasses and would not expose your eyes or skin to a powerful laser, UV-C is to be treated the same way! Let's start by using some boring text to explain the concept a little bit. On a large scale special and quite powerful systems are used to treat our drinking or pool water. Here special UV-C lights with a wavelenghts of 260nm or below are used to shine through the water passing by. There are two key factors here. a) the wavelenght b) the water flow rate and the corresponding time the water is in contact with the UV light To ensure all bacteria, viruses, algae and other harmful organics are dead the water must circulate for long enough so even the last water molecule had a few seconds of exposure. All this only works good with "crystal clear" water for obvious reasons as otherwise the UV has to be even more powerful to pass through. Single cell organisms literally crack into pieces similar to being exposed to gamma rays, more complex cells like algae have their cell membranes damages and the DNA suffers as well causing reproduction loss and early death. Even some chemicals break down, most importantly here chlorine based substances. Differences within the UV-C range! If you bothered to check Wiki about the topic of UV-C you will already know that only certain wavelengths within this spectrum will actuall be powerful enough to do what we want it to do. And here is the first problem for us hobby users. Most cheaply advertised "sterlisation lamps" you find in places like Ebay are actually totally useless. Stating to be selling a UV-C light to sterilze your water in such a case is still not considered to be fraud though. Simply because it still does what it supposed to do, just very slow and with very little effect. Only the so called "short wave" UV-C range is powerful enough! To avoid loosing business during the times of the biggest hype in 20 years no seller will actuall state the available wavelengths. That means without this info anywhere you can be certain the advertised lamp is of little to no use. Even those advertised to be short wave UV-C might not be the real deal. However, if a decent manufacturer is behind the actual lamp used it is possible to check the datasheet for these performance figures - but again most cheap systems come with no-name lamps inside. Check the prices for a reputable UV-C light with the same lamp fitting, e.g. G23 and you will see it might cost more than your entire system. Ok, you have a poper short wave UV-C lamp or consider getting a canister filter with one in it.... Never, ever test your lamp without proper protection!!!!! UV-C will damage your eye within seconds! If you system or lamp does not provide a viewing port or shine through area then you have to place a piece of glass between you and the light! UV-C won't be able to penetrate normal window glass but will pass through quartz glass. Place the lamp in a box and cover with the glass. How make proper use of UV-C sterilisation... The replacement lights are quite expensive, so let's see how to get the most out of them. As said before exposure is the key factor so the flow rate of the UV system must match tank size and flow rate of your filter system. Canister filters with a build in lamp should be designed to match but I will tell you later what to look for ;) Most of us will prefer to have a in-line system if there is already a good canister filter at work, so I will focus on those and rop in solutions. If you compare in-line system you might notice that some quite small and low power units claim to allow for the same flow rates as for example 40W units. Some are fraud and just want to sell while others use simple physics to make the claim true. A good system will utilise an auger like "ramp" that forces the water to circulate around the tube many times - causing up to ten times longer exposure rates. Others create this sprial effect more like a vortex with some diverters and modified inlets. The later seems to be less efficient though with low power lamps. An in-line system should be on the outlet side of your canister filter so the best quality water will pass through it. A drop in solution should be used alone and without the existing normal filter pump you might have in there. Ok, got it, but how do I actually use it now? Despite common thinking a UV-C system should not run 24/7 like your normal filter. You really only need it to solve problems you should not have in a healthy tank! It is not a magical solution to make your underlaying problems go away ;) Let's start with the most common reason someone buys a UV-C system: An algae or bacterial outbreak causing greenish or milky water. If that developed slowly over a period of weeks then you would be better off to do a good clean of the tank and filter plus a decent water exchange. A few drops of meds will do the rest. And if you constantly get algae growing on your glass, ornaments and plants then your nutrient levels and water quality is not right anyway and needs a good check. But of course there is also the problem of light - too much for too long and unwanted gree appears everywhere. If in doubt reduce the light power, shade out natural light or reduce the on time for your lights. Having said that we now face the problem of a sudden outbreak after introducing new fish or plants. If you don't have a quarantaine tank chances are that sooner or later you get unwanted or even harmful guest into your tank. Here the UV-C will be beneficial, which is why a canister filter with build in light should have a seperate switch or power supply for the light. After an outbreak or while introducing new life into your tank the UV-C will remove a lot of the things that we don't want to bring along. For new life I leave the light on non stop for a week, that is for a small 4ft tank with 200 liters. To control an outbreak it depends on how bad it is. I assume here you can still see the back of your tank  but that the water either appears greenish or slightly milky from bacteria. As a personal thing I prefer to to remove and clean my filter material before treating a severe outbreak. Once done I fill the filter with a mix of activate carbon material and fine filter wool. Reason for this quite simple: The outbreak causing stuff is already in your filter material and will be a constant source of re-infection. And since breaking down all this bad stuff causes even more bad stuff to be produced as biological waste we want to discard it properly once done. Using just fine filter wool and activated carbon also reduces the flow rate bit if compacted ;) Now we can turn on the light and pump and forget about it for a while. It is not recommended to run UV lights on a timer as you want them on all time to prevent short lifespan and have ongoing treatment of the water. Good idea to take a picture at the same of a day from now on to compare and check results. After 3 days the water should definately be clearer, if not then either your filter material is packed too losse or the lamp is no good. Once the water appears to be clear do a readin test - take a newspaper behind the tank and check if the text is clear - blurry means the water is still not clean. You will reach a point where the water quality will not further improve as much as in the days before. This is the time where you discard or clean out to dry your filter material and put the original stuff back in. The activated carbon should be discarded of course. You cleaned filter material will now need a certain time to grow enough good bacteria to go back to the old performance. During this time you should still leave the light on. In most cases with enough fish and plants in the tank a week should be sufficient. After that you can leave the light off and keep the tank fit and healthy. Special case: Algae everywhere! Especially after getting a new plant you can end up with quite pesty algae growth. Be it these long ghost hair types or in a bad case the black stuff growing on plants, ornaments and the glass. I have even seen tanks with algae covering the entire bottom of the tank causing the gravel to look like carpet. Here I can only advise to set up a quarantaine tank for your fish. Then remove all infested material for manual removal and cleaning. Infested plants should be cut clean and what can be boiled should be boiled in water for a few minutes. Now start scrubbing in the tank with ongoing water replacements. I prefer to let everything settle over night without any bubbler or pump running. This way I can suck up a lot of sediment the next day. If you can remove all plants and fish you can now use hydrogen peroxide and add it to your tank water. But this is only feasable for small desktop tanks. Before using the UV as above to cure an outbreak you should consider all water one last time. Allow at least 2 weeks with ongoing water checks before adding plants back in and another week before placing your fish back in the tank. The week before adding fish should be used to monitor the plats for any signs of algae you might have missed - if you find any remove it! A week after the fish is back in you can turn off the UV light. Underwater UV-C light!? In most online stores you will find quite cheap UV lights to be advertised as underwater or in tank use. Although it might sound tempting you should be well aware of the dangers of using them. The glass of your tank will block the harmfull UV rays but the water surface won't, so either don't ever look at it or use proper sunglasses with real UV protection. Apart from the dangers to you these lamps are not just cheap in price but also cheaply produced. That means there is no way of telling how much or how little UV-C is produced. If they are good then you still need to know in what type of tank setup you can use them. As plants can tolerate a bit of UV a placement as far away from the nearest plant should do, especially if you can place a bubble wall betwenn light and plants. The fish is another thing as some seem to be unaware of the danger in their tank. This means they can get too close to the light but I have not found any articles explaining how harmful UV-C is to fish or their eyesight. I guess once your fish starts to bounce into everything you know... ;) My advise is to stay away from the idea of hanging a UV-C lamp in your tank, the risk for you and your tank is just not justified. If you need to go cheap then get two or thre of these lamps so you have spares. But use them externally ;) Meaning: Take a UV proof plastic container of small size and place the light in there. To be really safe tape the lid and all holes for the hoses with black tape. Place the container above the water level of your tank and if you only have an internal filter pump push a suitable sized hose into the outlet to feed into you canister. Check how high you pump can make it and place the outlet or overflow slightly below this level. When to change the light? If you made it all the way down here then you might already had the benefit of using light to "cure" your tank. Now we are faced with the high replacement cost for the lamp itself. Ususally only flouroscent tubes are used. It is always good to check after purchase what type of lamp and manufacturer (if there is one) was used. In some cases the system itself is like an inkjet printer: Just a cheap way to make you buy the consumables. Let's say you new in-line filter was priced at $100 to have a nice round number, some are cheaper some much more expensive. The lamp used might be an exotic type and not even be available easy, so before you buy your system check where you can get spares, not just the lamp of course. A replacement lamp can be as ceap as 20 bucks or cost even more than your system if you need to order it elsewhere. The quartz glass sleeve can break too meaning you then need a lamp and cylinder. Going with a reputable brand and paying a bit more certainly helps to get spares in the future. Let's just assume you either got your system in bulk due to the price of replacement lamps or can get them at a reasonable price. UV-C lamps are not like your normal flouroscent light tubes you have around or maybe even on top of your tank. Consider them like the tubes used in the now unhealthy tanning beds. After a certain amount of time they no longer produce enough of the short wave UV light that we need. As you can't see it and most of us won't have the means to specifically measure it we have to trust manufacturers recommendations. For most good brands the numbers are the same: 8000 hours max. Considering the costs it does make sense to keep written track of the usage. Not too hard since we won't use them like normal lights but instead have them on for a week or more without turning them off. I recommend to have a replacement at hand long before you need it. A lamp can fail premature, crack or simply burn out. The 8000 hours are based on 24 hour usage, so one day on, one day off. This could mean for us the lifetime can be slightly longer but I would not go over 9000 hours. As a rule of thumb: If the water does not show good signs of getting clear on day thre the lamp is due.

Posted by Downunder35m 9 months ago