Guitar Amp Static

Following up on my other thread with soldering, I managed to get my circuit for a distortion pedal all wired up.  I've got the clean end working, and nothing at all on the distorted end, but I'm not concerned about that just yet.  On the clean end, I get a really annoying buzzing sound, like when you turn the amp on with a cable plugged in with no guitar on the other end.  What would be cause of this?  Possibly outside interference since I haven't actually put this into an enclosure yet?  This is the schematic I followed.. https://www.instructables.com/id/Simple-overdrive-effect-pedal/step2/The-schematic/ and the sound from my amp is similar to this.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZUeRLC4z8f4 No, it's not the amp that's the problem because it works fine without the circuit.

Posted by MGZero 8 years ago


Hearing a dialup connection on a FM car radio?

My mum was driving to uni and we hear a dial-up connection over the radio twice or three times, on 103.50 FM to be exact. A little while ago i rang my mum and she was in the same place and suddenly the phone goes silent and it starts making all different tones. What's happening? What's causing it? Why's it on the FM band

Posted by thermoelectric 9 years ago


pump capacity / electrical interference

I am building a custom watercooling system in a confined space, with the pump motor close to the processor. for the pump, I intend to use a thin centrifugal pump with a centeral brushless motor based around a re-wound cd drive stator, but don't know what the power required to move enough water is, especially with small bore pipe (2 X 1/4" also, when positioning the pump, how far away should it be from the main board to avoid causing interference, as the pump is essentially a large spinning magnet with several amps going to it. I'm guessing the motor should be as far away as possible, as well as the supply cables. thanks for the help.

Posted by The Skinnerz 7 years ago


PICAXE Electronic interference?

I have solved the problem by making two changes.Firstly, a 22k resistor was put from I/O 2 to ground.Secondly, I had to modify the program to be the following, and accept any value as an input as long as it was not 0. The new program is shown below:main:low 1 &apos;discharge led on Pin 1input 2 &apos;make pin 2 an inputreadadc 2, b1 &apos;read pin 2 using ADCif b1 > 0 then flash goto main &apos;loop back roundflash:&apos;led sequencehigh 1pause 100low 1goto mainI've been having a bit of an odd problem...I'm trying to use a PICAXE 08M with a touch input, so a user touches a wire or bridges 2 wires and the uC responds based on the program, at the moment, turns an LED on.Now, Initially, I've tried a few things, until sort of by accident I noticed that using the program I was, the LED turned on by touching the input pin of the PICAXE, with nothing attached to it except one short piece of wire. I know the human body has certain capacitive qualities, but I wouldn't have thought it would be enough for this. The LED started turning on when I got close to the breadboard it was on, never mind the wire.I tried moving the board, while I had my finger on the wire, and found that when I got a certain distance from my laptop (About 1 ft or so) the LED would go out, and not come on again. Strangely, it does the same when my laptop is turned off!So what I was wondering is, what could my laptop be doing that enables the PICAXE to get an input from seemingly nothing? Could it be some sort of EM field from it? Incidentally, the same thing happens close to my TV.The code i'm using is below.main:low 1 &apos;discharge led on Pin 1input 2 &apos;make pin 2 an inputreadadc 2, b1 &apos;read pin 2 using ADCif b1 < 40 then flash goto main &apos;loop back roundflash:&apos;led sequencehigh 1pause 100low 1goto main

Posted by whatsisface 10 years ago


...

What do you think the laughing mans main intentions were? and could the same interference or ideals exist and work in todays society? yea. i know is offbeat..

Posted by last_decoy 10 years ago


Challenge Mitch

Is there some aspect of woodwork that you would like me to explain in an instructable?   I'm by no means a woodworking oracle, but I do like a challenge, so have a good discussion amongst yourselves and see if anything comes out on top.   I'll keep my eye on things, but I don't want to interfere.

Posted by WOmadeOD 2 years ago


External Camera

I was thinking of buying an external Camera for a laptop even though it already has an built in cam. I would like to use the external so that I can point it toward a table surface and use it for animation purposes.  I was wondering, would  the external interfere with the other? Thank you for your answers. -T.T :)

Posted by Treasure Tabby 4 years ago


Adult Swim and Interference Inc - This NOT the work of the GRL

An advertising agency managed to shut Boston down with a guerrilla marketing campaign gone bad. Inspired by the GRL (the people behind LED Throwies), Interference, Inc, whose website appears to be blank right now, created some LED-based graffiti to promote a cartoon. Our friends at the GRL were not impressed, and posted a response here.Like a dog in heat, a producer/reporter from Inside Edition tracked me down earlier today hoping to find, and I quote, "a techie willing to explain these light-bulbs attached to magnets that are all over Boston." I tried to explain that the GRL and LED Throwies had nothing to do with it, but perhaps subtlety is lost when you're hot on the trail of a story. Carl, if you're out there, these are the links you weren't interested in getting from me. The people who actually are behind this posted the video below (which was removed by the original author, but reposted by the GRL). I grabbed it from here.There are lots of very interesting questions around this whole issue: When does art become advertising; how can we as "techies" educate those around us as to what's a bomb and what's art; and who is responsible for actions like these that shut down a city? The artists? The corporation that put them up to it? The government for making itself and the public so paranoid? In any case, join me in watching how this unfolds.

Posted by ewilhelm 11 years ago


Any ways to block the EM waves from my solid state Tesla coil?

Hi guys, I'm working on a small solid state Tesla coil (Slayer exciter) and every time I test it, the internet router stops working and peoples don't really appreciate it when it happens. The router is about 25-40 feet away but my brother's computer is in the same room about 10 feet away but is connected with an Ethernet cable that might act as an antenna? I know that all the touch lamps in the house goes crazy so I really need to find a way to stop the EM waves to interfere with the electronics in the house. I thought about putting the coil in a earth grounded metal cage but have no idea if it would work and if there is any other ways to do it. Any help?

Posted by Electrospark 3 years ago


Title in Primary Images

Dear Instructables Authors, Does anyone find the current trend of putting the title of an ible in the primary image as visually offending as I do? The format of the site puts the title right below the image in a concise and legible manner that doesn't interfere with the image of the project. Why clutter your image with unnecessary (often poorly chosen) typography? Please stop. Sincerely, Aesthetically Repulsed

Posted by Brooklyntonia 3 years ago


Different antennas on one mast

I have a standard vhf/uhf/fm antenna on my roof. I live about 45 miles + from the towers. I also would like to get in HD Radio and decent fm stations. Therefore, I bought an Antennacraft FM6 yagi antenna for the roof. Can I place this antenna on the same mast as the tv antenna? If placed too close would this cause interference for either? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

Posted by stacym456 8 years ago


Irritating Site PopUps

I quite like getting notiification emails and I often like to check out the featured article on the web pages but I sure as heck get extremely irritated that the popups appear so quickly and cover so much of the page that it interferes with my reading of the article. Can these be turned off/delayed? I understand the desire to market the tutorials to interested people but this is just darned irritating. BTW - this comment page hung for ages because of Google analytics - not very user friendly.

Posted by bnnorman 1 year ago


glow in the dark bike

After getting hit by a car while riding at night (even though I had lights) I am considering powder-coating the frame of my bike with a glow in the dark additive. I was wondering if anyone had attempted this before, and if you had thoughts on it. Also, can you powder-coat spokes? I know powder-coating the rims is bad because it interferes with the brake pads functioning, but I'd really like my bike to be as visible as possible. 

Posted by luckbug 6 years ago


micro camera for Rc planes

If been wanting to film some of my Rc flights iv been thinking of two ways to do this: A.) buy a mini camera (not wireless could cause interference with other planes or mine although it should only affect 2.4GHZ or spreed spectrum channels which are designed to handle this kind of interference but i dont want to cause any accidents) or B.) Buy a cheep digital camera and mount it to plane Things to consider:Any thing will add weight to the plane which will affect balance (to solve this add weight till balance)I want to avoid wireless. How to power; battery's weight a lot and take up lots of spaceDragSize of cameraIf i do use micro camera where will it record too?Dose any one have any suggestions or ideas on the best way to do this on the cheep?*update* i found a Camera called the flip video camera it has every thing iv been looking for its cheep about 150$, has a tripod mount, records 60 min of video, comes with editing software, runs on 2 AA batteries, and has a small (1.5inch) Lcd screen

Posted by i make shooting things 10 years ago


micro camera for Rc planes

If been wanting to film some of my Rc flights iv been thinking of two ways to do this: A.) buy a mini camera (not wireless could cause interference with other planes or mine although it should only affect 2.4GHZ or spreed spectrum channels which are designed to handle this kind of interference but i dont want to cause any accidents) or B.) Buy a cheep digital camera and mount it to plane Things to consider:Any thing will add weight to the plane which will affect balance (to solve this add weight till balance)I want to avoid wireless. How to power; battery's weight a lot and take up lots of spaceDragSize of cameraIf i do use micro camera where will it record too?Dose any one have any suggestions or ideas on the best way to do this on the cheep?Original form (it was origanaly posted in that group but it got separated) *update* i found a Camera called the flip video camera it has every thing iv been looking for its cheep about 150$, has a tripod mount, records 60 min of video, comes with editing software, runs on 2 AA batteries, and has a small (1.5inch) Lcd screen

Posted by i make shooting things 10 years ago


Knex Pump action rail action gun trigger mech

I would like to make a KNEX pump action rail action gun but the trigger is driving me crazy do any of you know of a good trigger mech that would not interfere with the pump but still would hold the rail car in place and not bend the top rail.   if you have ideas or a trigger mech that you think would work please comment and tell me. Thanks everybody.  

Posted by sonic broom 3 years ago


Favorite Quotes.

What are your favorite sayings? Mine are: "One can never know for sure what a deserted area looks like." - George Carlin. "I have never let my schooling interfere with my education." - Mark Twain. "One tequila, two tequila, three tequila, floor." - Steven Wright. "It is better to keep your mouth closed and let people think you are a fool than to open it and remove all doubt." - Mark Twain. And last but not least, "Tomorrow's another big day!" - Calvin's mom. Comment with your own!

Posted by black hole 6 years ago


One of the most interesting guns you will see today.

For those of you who just stalk the forums here, I have a new instructable. The is a single shot but it has a magazine too, so when you run out of magazine ammo, you just load oodammo in the bullet lock! The bullet lock does not need rubber bands, nor does it interfere in anyway with the magazine fed shooting. And it has very strong hop up! Check it out: https://www.instructables.com/id/Knex-Gun-OodaHopUp/?comments=all#C0UK34KID1SQGJ6

Posted by CorgiCritter 3 years ago


5v 2amps from a 12v 110amp leisure battery?

Whats the best way to get a power supply to my raspberry pi b+ which is 5 volts 2 amps from a 12 volt 110 amp leisure battery? the method ive thought of so far is to connect a 12v cigarette lighter socket straight to the battery and put a 2amp usb charger in there, i cant see why this wouldn't work but is there a better way of doing this as i intend on using the Pi for playing music and if i don't get a good power supply it could interfere with sound quality. thanks

Posted by AbleArcher83 3 years ago


New Topic Not Showing UP ?

This probably won't show up someone is filtering out my forum topics! I posted many. No way to find them in : Burning Questions or Community Blog. The topic is : AMR ELECTRIC METERS - radiation poisoning people, etc... Can not find my blogs. Can you look into this administration people, bug fixers ! There are people on your staff who have an agenda that is working against peoples forum answers and questions. You know who he is. He is not from the USA. Check out his activities for yourself. Something is covert and not right with his interferance and deletion of blogs and personal agendas. Thanks.

Posted by triumphman 4 years ago


Noise filter on iPod dock

I recently completed a project where i made my own iPod Touch charging dock for a set of PC speakers. While testing it out i noticed there is some background noise/feedback coming through the speakers any time the iTouch is actually charging. Is there any way i can shield against this interference? Or is the proximity of the headphone jack to the iPod connecter to much of a problem to overcome without alterations to the iTouch itself? I've notice this problem before while listening to my iTouch through it's speaker or headphones when it was plugged into a wall charger or PC. https://www.instructables.com/id/Laptop-Speaker-system-with-iPod-Touch-dock/

Posted by mpilchfamily 6 years ago


Can the forward vertical tube on this paintball gun be removed?

I am thinking of getting a Spyder MR1 to convert into one of these.  Anyway, the issue is the forward vertical grip piece. I am pretty sure that it is just basically a square tube that the gas feed hose runs through. I really don't need it there because it would interfere with the design. No one has been able to tell me if it can be removed. Hence, my asking here. I think there is a screw on it, but I am not sure, So, after all that background crap, my question is: can I remove this thing without messing it up? 

Posted by ilpug 6 years ago


HDMI to USB convertor

Hello guys....this is my first time writing anything on this forum...........actually i.ve bought a Plasma Tv (Panasonic TH-P42X20V) Which has no USB interferance...........there r 3 HDMI ports only...If, i have to watch something on TV through HDMI..i have to connect my laptop to the TV....which makes things running same at a time... i wanted to play music and HD movies through USB. but there is no USB option.......and i did'nt found any cable or convertor. which solves my problem.......i wanted to use one of my HDMI port as USB. can it be possible.. plz plz plz help me out.

Posted by hotncold 6 years ago


Arduino and proper proximity sensor

Hi guys. I want to use a proximity sensor and an arduino to know when a person is in the shower. What I have in mind if that if the sensor measures a range of distance it would mean that the person is in the shower. I have made some research and the infrared Sharp GP2Y0A21YK0F seems appropriate for the distance range I need that is around 20-60 cm depending on the size of the shower. However I am ignorant in this topic and I want to know if the water from the shower will make an interference when measuring the distance and generally speaking if this is a suitable sensor for my objective. additionally I read that the voltage output from this type of sensor is not linear, would it be difficult to actually know the distance? Many thanks in advance :)

Posted by mcamiea 2 years ago


Avoid wires from touching each other?

I am building a Guitar Distortion Pedal. I have made a case for it. When all of the contents are inside the case - sometimes there are misconnections, and 'scratchy sounds' i get through the amp. I'm assuming this is because some wires are touching OR some wires are NOT touching. In any case, I need suggestions as to how to avoid wires from touching each other. I know there are rubber wire sleeves that can protect the wire from other wires. I've used some of those. But, is there such a thing as a "Blanket"  to lay across the circuit board so it doesn't touch or interfere with the case? If so, please let me know! Any other suggestions would be appreciated as well.  Thank you. - Grizzly_Bear

Posted by Grizzly_Bear 5 years ago


Use Output as Input

Hi ! I have this program, Finale 2005b. I've searched everywhere, and I cannot find any way to export the music I produce in there as a real audio file (NOT a midi). So, to achieve this, I have decided to record the output as the input... using Audacity , actually. To do so, I used a simple mono cable to go from my headphone to mic plugs, and set the volume to the minimum... to avoid too much amplitude going in. Now, for the use I want it, this method is way too dodgy (plenty of interference, specially each time I move the cable 1 mm...) I'm pretty sure there is some program or solution to directly map the stream around... I don't have much funds, so free would be good, and btw I work on Win32. Thanks

Posted by fxsapa 9 years ago


Shotgun Remake, Any Ideas.

I got bored with my HAWC bow, and seeing as shotguns seem to be all the rage these days I thought I'd do a remake of my FSSG. For those of you who weren't around in 2009 the FSSG was a single barrel break action shotgun that was incredibly sturdy reliable and powerful, (picture below is the  version posted). What I wanted to know is, is there anything that I should try to intergrate into the original design, for example I have had thoughts about a double barrel break action system. Suggestions that I will not accept, because either they interfere with the original gun too much or because I can't be bothered.: Double barrel (already said) put a turret on it. pump action semi auto. Others may be added

Posted by Fred the Penguin 7 years ago


I want to be able to fall asleep to the sound of the waterfall ~75' away

I want to be able to set up a wireless microphone that will be able to withstand the elements in a northern Maine climate (wind, snow, freezing rain etc) that will capture the sound of a waterfall close to our cottage and transmit the sound with fairly good fidelity to a bedside receiver.  Something that won't eat batteries, or maybe even solar powered (if simple enough) I'm no electronics whiz (clearly) but surely this is do-able?  The power lines come in from the other side of the cottage, so are more than 100' away.  Nearest neighbours are more than a half-mile so the only possible interference I could see would be from our own cordless telephones.  Any takers?

Posted by ourmoneypit 8 years ago


Tool belt / carrier

I'm new to the forum, so please be constructive with criticism if it's necessary. I'm looking for a way to carry around my tools (leatherman BLAST, cell phone (LG CU400), pencil, pen, BUNGEE notebook (maybe 5" x 3" or so)) in a comfortable, secure way. I hate using my pockets, and I'm a guy, so I don't carry a pocketbook or anything like that. I've been trying to figure out a way to secure said items on my body, but I find that everywhere I put them interferes with my motion, or makes too much noise as I'm prowling around behind friends :-P Does anyone have an idea for what I could do to solve this, is there an instructable already for something similar, etc.? Thanks in advance, and I hope this is the right place to post :)

Posted by Krozgen 11 years ago


Can you piggyback RF communications on cellular transmit/receive frequency bands ?

My question is purely hypothetical and there is no immediate plans for any such application. But I was just curious is it possible to make use of the cellular frequency bands (as set out by a country's regulations and by the cellular providers) for some sort of covert type communication other than for voice, data or text types of cellular communications ? Would it be too difficult and complex to develop such an application that uses cellular radio frequencies or could it be done without too much concern for potential interference or the sharing of channels of nearby normal cellular transmissions ? Could such an application be developed without having to cross over many hurdles ? If this covert communications is possible would the cell frequencies used not reach the base stations of the wireless carriers as noise or can a peer to peer communications be possible by passing the base stations ?

Posted by victor43 2 years ago


Lying down may make you smarter

While at MIT, we used to mercilessly mock my friend Sawyer because he would always start a problem set, and then lie down on the couch to think about it. Turns out, he might have been on to something. Although it didn't help that he often had a pillow over his head...http://www.braingle.com/mind/83/horizontally-smarter.htmlA recent study by the Australian National University tested peoples' problem solving abilities while standing up and lying down. They found that people were slightly better at solving problems while in a horizontal position.This difference in cognitive ability may come from the varied release of a neurotransmitter called noradrenaline, which is believed to interfere with creative thinking. When you are lying down, your body releases less noradrenaline.So, if you need to do some serious thinking, lying down may slightly boost your performance.

Posted by ewilhelm 10 years ago


router bypass (/w toggle switch)

Hello, it's been a while. This problem requires someone with IT experience, and basic wiring. (the two go hand-in-hand really.) An ethernet cable is made up of 8 color-coded cables. the colors are brown, brown-white, blue, blue-white, orange, orange-white, green, and green-white.(for ease of coloring, I didn't differentiate between the mixed/solid wires) The principle works similar to that of a lag switch. The solid orange cable handles the data flow, and in lag switches it is "cut" by a  simple on/off switch. But here, Instead of the solid orange cable being "cut" by the switch, it simply switches the input. Hence the toggle switch.  **I realise you can do the same thing with port forwarding, but however hard I try, it does not work. Even software made to do it won't let me. Before i go out and by 4 ethernet cables that i don't need, i was wondering if this concept would work. From the modem out, the ethernet cable is spliced into two wires, which had two paths: path 1: directly to the router, out a router port and to the switch (red line picture 2) path 2: directly to the switch. (red line picture 3) from the switch, the cable goes directly into the computer tower. with a simple flick of the switch,  the input to the switch would either go through or bypass the router. although the green and blue current (amps) is split, the amperage is joined again at the switch because of Kirchoff's current (?) law. although the orange is split, it cannot flow through both wires at the same time because one will not have any place to flow. because the internal wires are twisted to reduce interference, I would use the required minimum of 2 feet for any segment. Q1: would this work? Q2: if so, would this effect the router because the power is split.  Q3: if so, would an 8-pole toggle switch be the solution? Q4: would this have any negative effects with the power going moving at different rates (destructive interference) Q5: would an alternate setup be more plausible? (see picture 4) Thanks in advance -Pyro

Posted by ich bin ein pyro 7 years ago


Mouse left and right click keys added to a keyboard

The software I use at work interfaces with JAVA so the enter and info keys on the keyboard do not work within JAVA scripted panels that pop up with simple OK or YES or Cancel buttons. I have to physically grab the mouse and click the button I want to continue after the click. This slows me down immensely. I cannot change the script (it's commercial software) and cannot add any software to the PC because the PC's are locked down securely. Remapping keys is locked out as well. I want a wireless solution preferably USB that I can add the two keys above the arrow keys and below the word processing keys that only respond to the left click and right click of the mouse. I necessary I could use a wired version as long as it wouldn't interfere with my current wireless mouse/keyboard. Any ideas out there? Am I explaining this properly?

Posted by wrench409 6 years ago


Become an Ordained Minister of The First Church of Atheism

From http://firstchurchofatheism.com/Become OrdainedWith the First Church of Atheism you can become ordained quickly, easily, and at no cost.As a legally ordained minister, you will be able to perform weddings, funerals, commitment ceremonies, and other functions that are reserved for members of clergy.Since its inception, the First Church of Atheism has amassed quite a following around the world. FCA ministers come from all walks of life. They are every race, ethnicity, age, and creed. The one thing binding every FCA minister is his or her belief in science, reason, and reality.The First Church of Atheism wants you to pursue and cherish your realistic beliefs without interference from any outside agency, including government or church authority. We provide our service for free, as we believe it is every atheists right to perform these clergy functions.You may become a legally ordained minister for life, without cost, and without question.Become Ordained

Posted by TheDeadChemist 10 years ago


Summary of observed/reported bugs or poor features with new editor

(10/16 Updated with overnight fixes) (10/15 Updated with new dropped-spaces/wrapping bug) (10/9 Updated with overnight fixes, and two new bug bullets) (10/8 Updated subsequent to Rachel's very nice response, with discovery of another bug.) I originally posted the following as a comment in Eric's announcement about the new editor, but it seems more likely to assist staff as a separate bug report.  I've tweaked the text a bit from my original comment. It would be helpful to know (by response) whether these issues are being (or cannot be) addressed, either by Instructables staff or by the CKE developers. It seems there are some fairly substantive bugs or obstructive "features" in the newly rolled-out editor. The ones I've collected so far (from reading posts as well as personal experience) are (now grouped separately as "true bugs" vs. "feature changes" or "design issues"): Browser Incompatibility There are serious shortcomings with the new editor on non-Firefox browsers Cannot paste comments at all, mishandling of links, etc. Bugs Additional user-entered spaces left as "&nbsp;" entities, rather than collapsed Pop-up box for hyperlinks is empty (no where to enter/paste a URL) FIXED Inexplicable "invalid formatting" errors FIXED Text pasting interference (hijacking of Ctrl/Cmd-V) FIXED Interference of spell-checker with built-in and configurable facilities FIXED Extra whitespace inserted between HTML markup and adjacent characters FIXED Line wrapping has problems:  spaced between words get dropped FIXED Spell-checker mistakes and application to hidden format codes FIXED Feature/Design Issues Extremely slow loading and processing FIXED! FIXED! FIXED! Inconsistent recognition of typed-in URLs (maybe three separate bugs?) FIXED Text box loses keyboard focus and requires multiple mouse-clicks to recover Editor box, icons, and posting button cut off by sidebar Limited keyboard-based markup (only bold, italic, and underlining), no entities Blank-line separation is not identified/translated into proper HTML paragraph tags Redundant end-of-line tag ("") at end of user's text. I realize that you all have already gone through the conversion of the existing database of comments and everything else, so backing this out is essentially impossible. However, it might be worthwhile rolling out fixes for these problems as soon as they're available, rather than waiting for a regular update cycle.

Posted by kelseymh 8 years ago


Double-Opposite Coil Speaker Design?

So I finished a new speaker I designed, today. It was just then that I thought about the possibility of creating a new design. In the tradition speaker, a coil sits below the magnets, and they are pulled in and out of the coil, creating vibrations (subwoofer).I like this method, and all, but I wanted a bit more! So I got to brainstorming. If you were to put a coil around the magnets, it would still work - it's just have no bass what-so-ever. Well, what if we were to put a coil on the bottom, as usual, but add a second coil on the opposite side, while allowing it to encircle the magnets, but not get in the way. So when the magnets get pulled into the coil, the second coil does not interfere, but still is close enough to the magnets as to create sound. Would this have any adverse effects? Would it ever work? I've included an image so you can see my vision. I may very well just be stupid, but hey, it's an idea. Going to work on it tonight.

Posted by freethetech 6 years ago


Bluetooth Wireless Earbuds

I REALLY want Wireless headphones, but the caveat is that I want them to be earbuds.  I've seen people do all sorts of things to the big bulky ones, but I need these for stealth; I wanna listen to music in school! haha Don't try and tell me I ought to be studying either! =P The original plan was to use an RF transmitter and a RF receiver for each earbud, but RF modulation is static-ey and is subject to a LOT of interference. So the alternative is Bluetooth or other means of digital modulation.  I can't find a way to make your own "bluetooth" per se, leaving the only option to cannibalize another bluetooth device. Below is a quick sketch of what I had in mind.  I know there's more to it like resistors and whatnot, but I'll let you folks figure that stuff out. XD The idea is that the headphone hook around your ear and the receiver will hang off the back of your ear.  If you have any questions, just ask! =D Thanks for your help!!

Posted by dionysus.god 7 years ago


Get electromagnetic pulses from a gas igniter

Hi, here I have a common gas igniter like this: http://s10.postimg.org/r55cvgt9l/gasigniter.jpg Well, I removed the circuit from the box, then I shorted the two terminals, using various kind of coils (thick wire, thin wire, in various configurations and with different turns), but seems that this circuit is unable to generate electromagnetic pulses; I've tried to turn on a fluorescent lamp, to cause interferences to a pocket calculator (as I can see in various videos on youtube), but nothing happens. If I remove the coil from the terminals I am able to get nice sparks. So, why this circuit won't work as expected? I miss something? However this is the circuit: http://s4.postimg.org/fgd78werx/ignitercircuit.jpg Please note that I'm aware of the fact that these kind of circuit could be dangerous; I'm taking all possible precautions (I'm using it far from any electrical device, I'm using isolated gloves, and so on). I just want to make this circuit for fun. Many thanks.

Posted by akopelumenuscu 3 years ago


Feeler: Mac 1.25GHz G4 DP with 23inch ADC cinema display

I'm thinking of upgrading my Mac, and display issues are depressing me. I have the oldish ADC (Apple Display Connector) 23inch cinema display. It's a lovely display, but connecting it to a new mac or PC apparently requires a large, ugly, $100 adapter (ADC having gone away.) So I'm thinking of selling the old mac and display to cover the cost of a new monitor (BIGGER. $700 or so.) The boxes are long gone, so I'd prefer a local SF Bay area sale. And you'd have to wait till after the replacement system arrives. Would anyone be interested (at that $700 price)? I think 1.5G memory and 320G disk. Mirror door, older superdrive (writes DVD-R but no DL), no FW800. USB 1.1 (Hmm. I think I have a USB2/FW expansion card that works but interferes with "sleep" function. I'll throw that in if I find it.) Keyboard, mighty mouse, 10.2 (?) install disks and 10.4 (tiger) on DVD (so: older iLife apps.)

Posted by westfw 10 years ago


Old analogue TV with set top box problems

Hello everyone. This is the first time I have asked a question on Instructables, so please bare with me. Ok, so I have an old tv (one with only a RF coaxial input port) and a set top box. At the moment, I have the cable from the antenna plugged into the back of the set top box, then I have the component cables from the set top box plugged into the back of an old VCR player which has an RF coaxial output which goes to the TV itself. Now, this is all fine and dandy, the picture quaulity is good and it all worked forst go, the problem I am having is the sound. The sound is really very quiet which doesn't matter too much as the TV is pretty close to where I sit, but there is a static fuzzy sound that sort of drowns out the sound I am hearing. So I am thinking that the VCR player is causing this interference and quiet sound, would I be right? Is there some sort of adapter I can get that converts a component input into a coaxial RF output so I can bypass the VCR player? Any other tips/Ideas? Thankyou very much.

Posted by youkneephsycle 8 years ago


What is a wavefunction?

In the Physics topic on the EPR paradox, NachoMahma asked about wavefunctions and "collapse."Let's put aside the whole "collapse" issue -- not all physicists agree that it is a sensible concept. NM's comment has a link to the Measurement Problem, and I'm not a good enough theorist or philsopher to contribute to that argument.What is the wavefunction? "Is wavefunction only a convenient way to say it's located somewhere close to here, but we're not sure exactly where until we measure it?""At any particular point in time/space the object is in a definite spot with a definite set of properties, but we can only make a reasonable guess?"No. The wavefunction, spread out over all of space (I'm speaking non-relativistically here, but the formal interpretation applies to spacetime), is the fundamental "thing" in QM. "Objects" are wavefunctions. If the wavefunction is localized (non-zero for a small contiguous set of coordinates, zero everywhere else) then treating it like a particle makes sense. Otherwise, it doesn't; the thing behaves like a wave, showing diffraction, interference, and lots of other effects. My preference, when I talk about these things, is to just call them "quanta." They are not particles, they are not waves; they are their own kind of entity with well defined, if really hard to understand, behaviour.How do I get to that point? Well, quantum mechanics is one example of a "field theory" (electromagnetism is the most familiar classical field theory). The equations we write down (the Schrödinger equation non-relativisitically, the relativistic Dirac and Klein-Gordon equations) to describe how quanta behave are coupled partial differential equations (PDEs), which relate the values (and derivatives) of the field at every point in space to their evolution in time.A PDE which relates the time and spatial properties of a function is either a wave equation (if the solutions are sines and cosines) or a diffusion equation (if the solutions are exponentials). The Schrödinger equation is a wave equation, and we call the solutions wavefunctions. Electromagnetism also has a wave equation, which is how we get radio, light, etc.The difference is that the functions in EM are "real valued:" the value of the field at each point in space/time is a regular floating-point number (the "phase" in EM is determined by the relative values of the field and nearby points). The wavefunction is a '''complex valued''' field -- at each point in space/time, the field has both an amplitude and a phase (or equivalently a real and an imaginary component). This means that wavefunctions can interfere in ways more complex than simply "adding" or "subtracting", which can have quite interesting consequences.You get probabilities by taking the square (norm) of the wavefunction. This procedure gives you a real value, a probability, at each coordinate. When you make a measurement, those probabilities determine which coordinate value you see as the "location" of the quantum. The actual result is random, but that isn't because "we're not sure exactly." The quantum objective does not have a single coordinate location until we make the measurement.How that happens, whether by "collapse," "decoherence," "many worlds splitting" or something else, is a subject of intense philosophical and experimental argument.

Posted by kelseymh 9 years ago


Legal and copyrights confusion.

Hey everyone, I love instructables and I've been working on my own tutorial for the last few weeks. I am not far from publishing the instructables. Recently it came to my attention that I might have some legal/copyright issues. I built my DIY using some parts I took down from other products that are still on sale. One of these parts is copyrighted but not patented. I was wondering, due to the DIY and instructables nature if that would be an issue for me? I am not reselling the DIY or pushing people to do the same as me and even give indication to future makers about how to obtain that part legally. I cite all the sources of the original product from which I borrowed the parts. Would it be ok if I publish my instructables like this or should I avoid talking at all about the "borrowed" parts? Also, if a newspaper or magazine wanted to publish an article about my instructables, would granting them sole publishing rights interfere with using the "borrowed parts" that I talk about above? Would I even be able at all to grant them these rights, given the general terms of the CC license (Non-commercial share-alike)? Does this CC license allow anyone to publish an article about my instructables without my written consent (print and online), so long as they cite the sources? Thanks in advance for helping me out, I'm a bit confused!

Posted by twinbirder 3 years ago


Active Noise Cancellation for cars not equipped

I am playing with an idea. Higher end cars come with active noise cancellation systems to make the drive quieter and more enjoyable. However compact and subcompact class cars do not. With the noise canceling technology is available on every shelf for headphones, I am wondering if this could be hacked and repurposed to reduce road noise in a car. The system (Im presuming) would require one microphone, one noise canceling circuit board, and one speaker per wheel well. So it would require two pair of noise canceling headphones to accomplish. The idea is to improve the cabin noise quality in an off the shelf kind of way. Currently there are no aftermarket systems within the normal financial reach of most people. Only a hand full of aftermarket systems out there are available and priced @ 4K USD or more. If this works, it could be marketed at around 100 USD per unit. And provide a much nicer driving experience to the compact and subcompact cars.  By placing the microphones under the carpet and on the wheel wells metal surface the system should ignore the stereo, and correct road noise transmitted from the wheels to reduce cabin noise. Stereo interference is a common problem with cabin mounted microphones on OEM systems. So, your mission if you choose to accept it, is to devise a way to reduce road noise in a compact or subcompact car using off the shelf noise cancellation circuitry available to the average person. If your successful this should be a very easy way to upgrade most cars not equipped with such a system. Having a noise canceling system in a car reduces noise fatigue, and improves the driving experience for all of us.

Posted by ydeardorff 4 years ago


Why to use RF directional couplers in some measurements and control processes ?

I am an electronic engineer in the field of RF directional couplers, but I am puzzled about this question, why to use RF directional couplers in some measurements and control processes ? Today I come to this forum to turn to you to discuss my understandings are appropriate. Here are my personal understandings: RF radio frequency is referred to as RF current, it is a high frequency AC change electromagnetic wave short. Less than 1000 times per second changes in alternating current called low frequency current, more than 10000 times called high frequency current, and radio frequency is such a high frequency current. RF technology in the field of wireless communications with a wide range of irreplaceable role. In the electronics theory, the current flows through the conductor, the conductor will form a magnetic field around; alternating current through the conductor, the conductor will form an alternating electromagnetic field, known as electromagnetic waves. When the electromagnetic wave frequency is lower than 100khz, the electromagnetic wave will be absorbed by the surface, can not form an effective transmission, but the electromagnetic wave frequency is higher than 100khz, the electromagnetic wave can be spread in the air, and the outer edge of the ionospheric reflection, the formation of long-distance transmission capacity (Analog or digital) with high-frequency current modulation (amplitude modulation or FM), the formation of radio frequency signals, through the antenna to launch into the air, the radio frequency of the high-frequency electromagnetic waves.  Long-range radio frequency signal received after the anti-modulation, reduced to the electrical information source, this process is called wireless transmission. Wireless transmission developed for nearly two hundred years, forming a large number of users and product groups, but because of climate change and the impact of surface obstacles, can not transmit the perfect information. Modern human invention of the cheap high-frequency transmission cable (radio frequency line), in order to pursue the perfect quality of information transmission, taking into account the original wireless devices, wireless cable transmission began to pop. Resulting in the concept of radio frequency transmission. If your information source through the secondary modulation, with the cable to the opposite end, the opposite side with anti-modulation of the information source after the re-application, no matter how low frequency, but also radio frequency transmission, if there is no modulation anti-modulation process, The information source is transmitted directly to the opposite end of the cable, no matter how high the frequency, are the general cable transmission. SI --- Signal Integrity Signal Integrity PI --- Power Integrity Power Integrity emc --- electromagnetic compatibility Electromagnetic Compatibility rf - radio frequency RF emc = emi + ems EMI = Conduction + Radiation Emission SI: The Fourier transform shows that the higher the signal rises, the higher the amplitude of the higher harmonics. The MAXWELL equations see that these alternating harmonics produce alternating current at the adjacent line. And even through the space parasitic capacitance directly to another conductor, so these high harmonics is caused by radiation interference (emission) of the main factors; (that the simple point is that the signal rise faster, the more complete the signal, the better the signal quality, But for emi bad) . PI: PCB exists on the number \ \ analog area, high frequency \ 'low frequency region and other different areas and planes, if the partition is not easy to interfere with each other, that is, conduction conduction (conduction). Ps: Excuse me if I was wrong in words or expressions as I am a green hand in the field of RF directional couplers. I need continual learnings. What is your idea ? Do you agree with my ideas ? Any of your ideas would be highly appreciated. May someone would like to help ? thanks in advance.

Posted by maryzhu 1 year ago


Induction heater 2.0

Some might have already tried my first induction heater, which was more a proof of concept than a modern device. Although I like to keep things simple where possible I want to upgrade my heater to a fully electronic version running on mains power. This time the base concept is to use a cheap induction cooktop for the control and power source. After using a few already as a communication device I realised it is a costly way of producing smoke signs but I am getting on the right track with the design now. So my obvious questions are: 1. Did actually anyone ever built my current induction heater and if so, can you provide some nice pics? 2. If you were interested in a hobby induction heater, what would like to do with it?     E.g: Just for curiosity on how it works, heat treatment of punches, chisels and similar,     heat treating knifes or even swords, sheet metal work.... 3. What would like to have included?     E.g: Water cooling for continous use, air cooling (mostly for smaller and quick jobs), exchangable coils,     additional micro controller for temp, water and remote control (foot panel or similar)... 4. Do you require a fully shielded version to avoid interference? 5. If you are based in AU (preferable VIC): Would you be able to donate me faulty (partially or fully) or working induction cooktops,     for example discarded units with broken glass tops?     Would you able to donate me copper tubing OD8mm or less? Leftovers from pluming installations, old LPS systems or similar?     Prefered lenght 1m or longer as the coils need quite a few turns... :(     Each donor will of course be listed in the Instructable unless you prefer to remain unnamed. Let me know what you think because this time I am not just building for myself, this time it is for you!

Posted by Downunder35m 2 years ago


Scholarship robot idea: sound explorer/collector

I'm a wildlife biologist currently between jobs, so my budget for new cool gear like the iRobot Create is pretty much nil. But I have an idea for using the Create as a prototype platform for a field-usable device. Previous work has established the utility of robotics in obtaining data concerning wildlife behavior (e.g., Patricelli, G. L., J. A. C. Uy, et al. (2006). "Interactive signaling during mate choice in the Satin Bowerbird: an experimental test using robotic females." Journal of Ornithology 147(5): 12-12.) My background has included electrical engineering, computer programming, and bioacoustics. What I would be interested in trying my hand at is using the iRobot Create to set up an autonomous robot to localize sound, orient toward it, approach, and obtain sound recordings. I believe that this an achievable project in the contest timeframe. I already have microphones and amplifiers suitable for the project. I can either use three or more in a planar array to use time-of-arrival for sound localization, or use material to make each sensor directional and calculate heading from amplitude differences. In any case, the sound sensors would be used to obtain heading information for the robot. Acoustics boils down to a simple dictum: get a good microphone close to your subject. In this case, a robotic platform stands a much better chance of approaching wildlife without causing the sort of disturbance the presence of a human observer usually makes. While the Create platform itself may not be suitable for field deployment, I think that it would make a good prototype for lab testing of the concept. In that light, I will probably use a voice recorder as a lightweight recording system that will only require two actuators to have the robot operate it. There are some additional considerations that I will need to explore, such as figuring out how to determine closeness of approach. This would eventually need to be based upon calculations of whether the robot is at the boundary of far and near-fields of an acoustic source at the highest frequency of interest. That would maximize the sound amplitude at the recorder without the interference that is the defining characteristic of the near-field regime. If the prototype works well, there are further ideas that could go into a field robot system. One would be to have the robot localize a source and conduct a survey, carrying a GPS mapping system while taking sound recordings with a calibrated sound recording system. This would be useful to characterize sound propagation properties of the animal's emitted sound. As in Patricelli's work, the field system could be disguised as a conspecific, or at least a species that is likely to be considered "harmless" by the subject.

Posted by Diane Blackwood 11 years ago


Help on clay modeling/molding intricate parts

I had posted this on another forum asking for advice as well, but I haven't received a reply in days and I figured that the community there was more into the artistic craft sort of stuff. I like the engineering mindset of this community far better as I tour around here a lot looking at neat instructables, so maybe you guys can offer me some solid advice. I have a series of small metal parts with minute details on them, and I want to take them and create clay replicas of them. I want these clay replicas to essentially be spot-on accurate to the original and be durable; not brittle, heavy, and perhaps slightly flexible. Essentially, though it may sound strange, I'm working on a World War II movie project. I don't have the fire-arms necessary for it, and I don't have a reason to use real fire-arms, so I want to create dummy replicas that have believably working systems that of course are just made of clay and aren't capable of firing. I'm also of course going to create miscellaneous objects, such as papier mache helmets and whatnot. At the bottom are a few examples of what I need constructed. I don't know what type of clay would be the best for this; I can afford to have it be slightly flexible, but not rubbery. It would be handled and roughed around a lot and couldn't be brittle, lest it shatter. I also think that I would probably have to make a mold of the metal parts, but what material should I use? Some sort of molding latex, or clay? Would the clay stick to the metal, and if so, can I oil the metal to make it easy to remove, or would that interfere with the chemistry of the clay somehow? I've also considered maybe using papier mache to mold the parts, as I'm sure that it would be tough. Perhaps I could achieve this by carefully cutting the strips? I've considered that clay may not even be the best material for this, although it may certainly help with molds; tutorials on how to create molds for complex objects are also appreciated, since these have internal chambers and whatnot. Maybe I can eyeball it and cut the parts out of foam, and then coat it with some sort of hardening resin? I don't know, I'm certainly up for suggestions here. Thanks in advance! P.S. Oh, by the way, if any moderators feel that it would be better suited in the "Burning Questions" subforum feel free to move it there; I wasn't sure whether or not to post there since I simply want advice, not someone to make an instructable for me.

Posted by Phaethon 8 years ago


Help Needed: How would i make a 3-Section Floating Computer Desk (horizontal-diagonal-vertical)

I recently came upon the idea to build a floating or wall-mounted desk/workstation. I  am a graphic artist and use my computer area for computer research, drawing on my computer, drawing in sketchpads, printing/scanning, etc. its essentially my art-station.... So the idea came to give myself more room to get my work done, while at the same time not "crowding" my room, which isnt huge to begin with, since I don't have access to a separate office space. This idea could potentially give me enough space to draw and use my computer without having to constantly move things around to fit my materials. It would also allow for more leg room, as i could use my computer chair to roll through my entire area with no interference. I have a rough idea of how this might be able to work, but as i have never done any DIY projects, i figured i'd ask the more experienced people on here for their advice or opinions on the concept itself. and maybe if i am lucky i can get some recommendations on materials. i am VERY new to this and am running just on concept and basic logic; So the concept here is to have 3 pieces of wood, two of them will be 4' x 1' 6" ((48in x 18in)) and the center piece would be 4' 6" x 1' 7.5" ((54in x 19.5in)) however i would need to actually measure it out to make sure on that last one as i just did some quick math to scale of my drawings...  i have a diagonal wall in my room that connects to a horizontal and a vertical wall, which i plan to build the floating desk on. i included a diagram of how i plan to cut and connect the pieces (cutting off triangular pieces from each board should allow them to fit like a puzzle, to which i have to then find a way to attach them). Now, my question is, does this plan look doable. i feel it will be alot less expensive then buying a desk and i will have much more room for what i need. what would i need to support the desk? i would like to make this without legs if possible. while making it as sturdy as possible of course.... and i plan to add a sliding keyboard holder....i will not have many heavy things on top of the desk as shown on my diagrams, the heaviest thing would be an iMac which doesnt weigh much. i would also most likely stain the word a mahogany/reddish toned wood color. so i am looking for a sturdy would that can be stained fairly easily.... ((i will also cut a semi-circle hole on one of the boars for wires to go through, although i will have minimal wiring. I was thinking of using those L-shaped bracket things they sell at Home Depot to support the wood to the wall... they come at a maximum size of about 12 inches i believe....  Does anyone foresee any problems i might run into? any suggestions? is there some materials i should purchase. i have access to a power drill, and materials/machines to cut the diagonal/triangular cuts off of the wood. so yea, did i miss anything.. again sorry, this is my first DIY idea ever...!

Posted by PJ_Graphix 6 years ago


Advanced Helmet

Advanced Helmet By: Arseny Ratnikov I want to create a helmet that looks like a sci fi helmet (mass effect, titanfall, halo, etc.) and that; **Want to make cool helmet, need help with having multiple camera feed output to multiple screens** * Protects my head (able to decrease force from impact by significant degree) * Can filter the air I breath (does not need to be super extreme filter, just filter out general junk, the better the filter the more pleased I am, but if it becomes too bulky/expensive then it is unnecessary)(Optional/Most Likely) * Has a HUD with my vitals on it. I would wear some sensors, such as HR monitor to have some cool biofeedback, maybe also include other information.(option) * Maybe even have it be a digital display where there are cameras on the front and maye back of the helmet that then are displayed on the interior screen, where I have voice commands setup for some different things. * Have the helmet be as sound proof as possible and have microphones where my ears would be, then inside the helmet speakers, so that I can modify the noise around me to be how I want it to be. I understand this would be rather difficult (at least including all of the bullets) and that it could even be a touch silly. Yet, I find this a rather intriguing pursuit and think it will help contribute to becoming a cyborg. Any tips would be greatly appreciated as I don't really know where to start for this. I can imagine a lot of the work might be done on an arduino, but I simply don't know the feasibility of modifying noises of the world around you and having the cameras on the helmet. So here's a little prioritization sheet I worked out, it is not exactly in order, and maybe you all have some suggestions on what might be more critical to design and functionality. Prioritization 1. Functionality a. Head protection a1. Padding/Inertia dampener a2. Sturdy/solid b. Control of phone through bluetooth b1. In helmet speakers b2. In helmet microphone b3. Voice control c. Control of other systems such as screens c1. Voice control of screens c2. Screen modification c3. Screen HUD and other functions (maybe GPS map, time, etc.) d. Camera view d1. Camera live to screen with little to no latency d1a. 360 degree view compressed to 180 degree screen (maybe) d2. Computer control of camera feed d2a. Visuals, different HUDs e. Sound modulation e1. Sound cancelling e2. Sound reproduction at low to no latency e3. Sound modification e3a. Changing pitch e3b. Change decibel levels e3c. Change relative level of external sounds f. The HUD f1. Display of vitals f1a. Heart rate, oxygenation, etc. (Requires some monitor) f2. Display of time and other running interests f3. Display of current location on google maps/GPS system g. Air Filtration g1. Filtration of air, relatively high quality g2. Seal on head or seal over mouth and nose or full body suit that connects to helmet h. Extra Features 2. Style a. Look good b. Look like popular sci-fi media c. Does not interfere with functionality and accents functionality How should I do this? I am planning on using some old phone screens if I can for the screen part and multiple cameras. I plan on using a raspberry computing system (might need multiple) to modulate the output from the cameras. How could I make multiple camera outputs lay onto multiple screens that looks good at three to five inches from the eyes? Also how can I make the raspberry pi control my phone and computer via voice, or at least change a screens properties? Thanks

Posted by ArsenyR 10 months ago


Printer disconnecting or USB port disappearing in Windows

First I thought to make an Instructable out of it but realised there are too many different printer models out there, so this time no images. What is this about you might wonder? Well, let me tell you my story first and you might see similarities to your problem. It all started with me getting a new PC as the old one got memory problems (RAM modules failed). After a few successful prints I noticed errors coming up in the log window. Mainly things like communication problems and that some data is sent again. Realised that on my new PC I did not check the speed settings for the COM ports, so I adjusted them to match the printer board and moved on without even bothering to check the logs. Then, half way through a bigger print, it all stopped and I could not even connect to the printer anymore. After a power cycle on the printer all was fine again but the error kept coming back every now and then. At this point I started to read up on the problem and the most common recommendation is to print over SD - too bad if your printer does not support it and too bad it does not address the issue at all! A few more technical answers pointed to the Logitech drivers, especially mouse, keyboard and 3D vision. As I was using the same outer hardware as before and also the same drivers (and same version numbers) I simply ruled this one out too, although it might be a vital clue for others. When starting to get frustrated and after opening a cold blonde I remembered that I had a similar issue a long time ago and that it was related to loose wires on the screw terminals for the power connection. Measured it all but according to my trusty multimeter all was fine. Now comes the fun part: I friend of mine with a HiFi fetisch was here when I testing the connection and he started laughing at my attempts. He explained that ALL his connections, no matter if power or audio signal are oversized! Here I started to wonder if he is up to something and looked up similar circuit board mounted power plugs. To my surprise they are all rated for anything between 1 and 5Amps. Even without a heated bed powered by the printer board I think everyone will agree that a max 5A connections is not enough. My frined then offered to check the plug and connector at his place - what a great thing to have friends :) He used a signal generator and small speaker with the plug as a connector between them. With an oscilloscope connected to both input and speaker you could see, while moving the plug, that the audio signal become somehow unclean - there where spikes and missing bits everywhere depending which way you wobble the plug. After taking the whole thing apart the destructive way we saw the cause: overheated contact areas with discolored surfaces. I replaced the plug now with a 250V/20A one from an old laser printer and had no USB or connection issues ever since. Ok, what's the thing with power and USB problems on a 3D printer? Almost all printer boards have the ground connections bridged to avoid interference on the USB signals. This mean, in case of a faulty power connection or one that is "dirty", the USB port on the computer can receive back EMF signal or even a voltage spike. In return a smart bios either disconnects the port or disables it until the problem is solved, in our case by restarting / reconnecting the printer. But even with no obvious signs of power problems you can get  a so called "dirty" connection. Dirty covers all from corrosion, worn springs for battery compartments, overheating or in the old days burnt relay contacts. For our printer it usually means that either the soldering connection on the board or a screw came loose, in rare cases like mine an undersized connector can burn out due to being unable to handle the currents. The bad thing is that you can not always spot these problems the easy way... Is there an easy way to tell that my USB problem is caused by a faulty power connection? Yes and no. Some boards offer indicating LED's, you connect power and the LED stays on even if the printer is disconnected from the PC. If it is more than just a Power on" indicator" this LED will be off after the printer stops working and in the device manager your serial port for the printer is gone. You might also hear the warning sound from Windows in regards to a device being disconnected. If all the above is true than most likely your power connection has a problem somewhere - if in doubt replace all screw and plug connectors for the power. Sometimes the problem is less obvious. Your print software might show communication problems in the log window or re-send a lot of commands. If the speed selection for the com port is the same as for the firmware of the printer board and as set in the printer software, it could also be a power connection problem. But to be on the save side try a shielded cable with ferrite cores on both ends first for the connection between computer and printer. Can I take any measures to prevent the problem? Sure, you could solder everything and make sure the wires are fixed in place so they won't move. But a simple indicator might be enough: Solder a piece of LED strip to the power connection on the circuit board - if the connection has trouble the LED's will show it in most cases by changing light levels or flickering. On top they act as a nice light to see what's happening during a print.

Posted by Downunder35m 2 years ago