Anyone has an idea on how to clean this burnt iron? Thanks. AL.
Posted by alsports2000 4 years ago | last reply 4 years ago
Well theres been a minor hicuup in my soldering iron if any cd help the soldering iron doesnt heat up proprly the led which acts as indicator somtyms brights up sometym is dimmd or doesnt lyt is there a problem with the soldring iron or mains line
Asked by chatsbk007 5 years ago | last reply 5 years ago
the clue is in the question....
Asked by wizzywoo 8 years ago | last reply 5 years ago
Anybody know a good place to order a soldering iron with a very small tip? I want it for working with 0603 LEDs. I can't find replacement tips for my current soldering iron. Something not too expensive would be nice.
Posted by aliasjanedoe 9 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
I am new to soldering and am looking to buy an iron. Any suggestions on beginner irons would be great. I plan on mostly using it for soldering small electronics. Also I would like to buy at a store and not over the internet. Again, any advice is greatly appreciated.
Posted by sardines454 11 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
I am thinking of purchasing a desoldering iron, because braid gets annoying, and i was looking at one at radioshack, its just a soldering iron with a hole in its end and the hole leads of a mounted bulb. i was wondering how they work, the iron heat the solder, and u press the bulb and it sucks the solder, but where does the solder go? into the bulb? how do you get the solder out?
Posted by um0123 9 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
It has become apparent in my that a soldering iron is my next necessary resource/skill. Wondering what I am looking for in a good one, or any tips on what other people use. The use will be arduino circuit building. thanks
Posted by stupidityisanart 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
Im liiking to buy a soldering iron. I really dont know all that much about them, so i was hoping i could get some advice on what i should purchase for general use soldering. Do i need a variable heat iron? Wattage? Heat? im hoping something from radio shack (under $20) will get me by.
Posted by ScubaSteve 9 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
I have just brought a brand new soldering iron. I just plugged it in and kept it aside for a minute (so that it becomes hot ). after a minute or so Inoticed my iron's color gradually became darker (from silver to black). Its a brand new product and now it is not getting hot faster.please help
Asked by ashish_scientific 9 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
Asked by grsnp-guy 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
After using my desoldering iron for approximately 1-2 hours I had melted the tip, rendering it useless. I have since gotten replacement tips. I do also want to add that the desoldering iron and tip were brand new, just out of the pack, and yes, I was using it correctly =) But is their a suggested maximum amount of time someone should use the iron to avoid this? http://www.radioshack.com/radioshack-45-watt-desoldering-iron/6402060.html#.VJYyN-uAK4
Asked by OrangeJ 3 years ago | last reply 3 years ago
i have blow three my soldering iron , and it is because wire positive and negetive collide, when i buy soldering iron wire positive and negetive is not connect to heating element strongly,and can broke anytime when im using my soldering iron.so to prevent this collision , can i solder wire positive and negetive(seperately ) to heating element,and can my soldering iron still function after i solder the wire. and i dont want my soldering iron to blow again , plesea help me.
Asked by hore 9 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
I am a newbie at soldering, and I recently bought a $8 iron from radioshack. After the first time I used it, it had already began to erode. I think I tined it like I was suposed to. I melted a little bit of solder on it, and wiped off the excess. Would wiping it to much do this. Please help.
Asked by electronicdude 9 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
I am considering making a mini branding iron (about 3/4" square) out of brass with my initial to brand my work. I have some brass which I hope to transfer my initial on and then cut with a rotary tool. First I have to transfer the pattern,and thinking of using my ink jet printer and some acetone, and then proceeding to cut away with my rotary tool. Do anyone have any suggestions or tips? Thanks
Asked by WazIt 5 years ago | last reply 5 years ago
I am curious if it is possible to isolate then combine specific molecules into a desired object. Something easy to explain with is the molecular structure of Iron. We know what the structure is and what it is that comprises it. Would it be possible to isolate the different parts, deconstructing, the molecule and then rebuilding the molecule, re materializing, an iron molecule.
Asked by ODIS2100 2 years ago | last reply 2 years ago
Hi, we’re a team of engineering undergrads hoping to redesign the soldering iron. Specifically, we’re looking at making it safer and more usable by younger teens and children. We’re looking for any feedback or advice you might have, especially if you have kids, so if you can spare a few minutes to fill out our survey, that’d be awesome. Or if you have any questions, feel free to shoot us an email at: email@example.com. Thank you for your time and input! https://docs.google.com/forms/d/14cAsPIbiU_jf09aFBU03nplbYuBtr0JpTPzrWEp4OFw/viewform also, does anyone know why there is so much metal exposed towards the tip?
Posted by solderotter 4 years ago | last reply 4 years ago
So im still pretty new to electronics and obviously my projects involve soldering. But here's my problem, i go through tips too often. i dont use my soldering iron too much but my tips still oxidize all the time. I tin the tips when i use them but they still get oxidized. Although my iron is from radioshack, (i know not a quality iron) could that be the problem? or that my solder is lead-free? If anyone could tell me why my tips still get oxidized all the time that would be great, thanks in advance.
Asked by texpert 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
Welding cast iron to mild steel is for the most part done with ornamental iron such as gates and fences. the ornaments are typicaly cast iron such as spearpoints and fit over the top of what ever square tubing size ect you are working with. If you weld say with a mig welder in the normal mannor you rweld will cold roll and ball on you leaving a poor appearance that you will have to spend time grinding to make look good. Fortunatly it is not a matter of strenght or how much penetration ect. It is just ornamentation but must look good. Now take your mig welder with say 035 wire and use pure argon..(less spatter). Turn your welders heat up somewhat past what your normanl setting would be for what ever thickness you are using. Use breif spot welding like techniques overlapping as needed. You will find that this makes a good wash bead with no undercut or cold roll. The argon gas helps to keep down all the extra spatter welding cast iron to mild steel seems to cause. Larger peices such as caps for say 4by4 gate posts or fence posts, i preheat as uniformely as possibly to just under cherry red then weld as described. It welds badly because cast iron is actualy dirty, literaly with particles of dirt in the cheap castings, wich the ornaments are. Not haviong the need to be anealed or nodular for instance. If the welds are not going to show then you dont have to do this. It will still weld, just do not expect the clean perfect welds you are used to. And NO I do not have PICS AND I dont own a digital camera nor do i know how to use one let alone put them on a computer.
Posted by beserker 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
Hello. No one seems to have done anything in this group at all since inception. That honestly sucks, as I was hoping that someone would have put in some time and at least come out with some sketches, or put their thoughts down on paper. Well I am not one to complain without doing something about the problem. First up is the issue of powered movement. That is the core of Iron Man's super strength. You have 3 real options here. Hydraulic, Stepper Motor, or Servo Motor. I have filtered out hydraulic simply because it is not as easy to work with as the other electrical motors. I found a comparison chart, and a link to it is posted below. http://www.legacycncwoodworking.com/stepper-vs-servo-motors/ Based on the information it contained, I would say that a stepper motor is the most efficient way to go. It takes more power to run, and generates more heat, but neither of those problems is difficult to deal with. Heat syncs, and a propane/natural gas generator will solve both of those problems readily. The next problem is the exoskeleton, the armored body of Iron Man. I have looked into materials, and the difficulty in casting them, or machining them. ZA, or Zinc Aluminum alloys seem to be the way to go. They are relatively easy to make, requiring only about 900F to melt them, they cast extremely well, and they make extremely fine detailed castings. When they set up, they have hardness equivalent to that of Cast Iron. They also lend themselves readily to sand casting, mold casting, and to graphite casting. Alright, I have put my 2 cents in. Lets hear from the rest of you.
Posted by xarlock667 8 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
If you happen to have a some what rare car, or one that is simply thirty or more years old, you may find that if you ever crack your manifold exauhst that you can not get another by simply going to a (pick and pull) So, the first thought is..most of the time, "I will simply zap it with NIRod". WRONG! an old manifold that has repeatedly heated and cooled is very brittle and the sudden change in temp and too rapid cooling may crack it even more. Now what i do is use bare bronze rod and braze the crack. Here is how i do it. First I find the ends of the cracks and drill a 1/4 hole half way through the material at each end of the cracks. Next I use a rose bud torch and heat up the cast iron as evenly as possible peening with a hammer lightly to releive stress in the casting. After about five minutes of this I quickly switch to a oxy-actl. brazing tip and start my pass. The first thing i do is heat up as much of the crack as i can to cherry red and sear one coat of bronze using plenty of flux. Then I start at one end of the crack and fill in the crack that i had previously veed out with a grinder to half way of the depth of the material and no more than 1/4 inch wide. I use an overlapping spot weld like technique. i lay a small amount of bronze, remove heat for a second and overlapp where i left out. When done I have a bronze brazing weld with no undercut or cold roll. Then i use the rose bud again for some post heating gradulay reducing the heat and peening with hammer again. Then I quickly take the whole peice and cover it in powdered lime so that it cools very slowly. This will stop it from cracking due to rapid cooling. Also it may put some ductility in the cast iron. It takes about four hours to be cool enough to touch with the bare hand. Then I grind the bronze weld flush and inspect the weld to see if i got proper bonding, all you should see is a ribbon of nbronze that has no porosity or cavities. I have also done rare boat manifolds like this when repeative NIRod was used at other shops and they broke every time. Still no 100 percent with cast iron like this. Sometimes it just cracks more, after all it is a dirty porous metal that is very brittel. Anyway, i have had very good luck doing it this way
Posted by beserker 7 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
Would regular clorox bleach in a container with a peice of iron over time create iron oxide?
Asked by trf 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
Posted by dazzer730 8 years ago | last reply 3 years ago
I don't have acitone and I want more iron from cassette tapes#
Asked by nerd7473 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
Could we send something to mars to strip mine the surface and gather all of the iron oxide, then using a solar mirror array direct sunlight onto the days collections and melt them into iron. Then ship it to earth in a giant iron blob which would be transported by some kind of ship. I assume this either hasn't been proposed or is not practical because I haven't seen anything like it before.
Asked by jj.inc 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
If you where to put the same diameter brass rod and iron pipe in a bender, which one would be toughest to bend?
Asked by onrust 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
Hi guys! I found a beautiful charcoal iron at a flea-market and grabbed it up without giving it much thought. Now I have no idea how to bring it back to it`s former glory. The base is iron, and pretty damn corroded iron at that. The good part is that it isn't chipping. The bad part is that the whole thing is orange... The handle is made of wood and there's no way that I can see to take it off. Any ideas?
Posted by TashaDax 7 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
Hi, i want to make a micro soldering iron that can run on AA batteries.i have a micro soldering iron, but it runs on 12vDC@2A. it requires an adapter.so i want to make one that runs on AA batteries heats up quick, and uses less power.i saw many products but want to build one myself. An appropriate circuit will be great help. Thanks in advance,
Asked by jaga0692 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
Hi, I have an old horse branding iron from our past family ranch and I want to give it to my son as an hierloom. Problem is it is about 2 feet tall of quite heavy iron which now has a little rust on it.. I was thinking of chroming it on a wall plaque but the chrome is very expensive. Any ideas what I could do to make it look nice? Thanks oz
Posted by ozstar 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
Hi, we own a collection of the former seals on the West Side Highway, which are made of cast iron. Over the past 2 weeks or so, we're noticed they've begun to decay. Does anyone have any suggestions for how to save, as it would be a shame to let apiece of history go to ruin. Any advice greatly appreciated. They are shown here: http://www.smpub.com/ubb/images/09/nycseals.html
Asked by ksterrblanc 4 years ago | last reply 4 years ago
Hello Everyone, I recently found out about Sodium Hydroxide as an electrolyte. I have read that it does not affect the electrodes like salt or baking soda and it does not create any weird gasses like chlorine. The main reason for using stainless steel electrodes is to prevent this corrosion, but since sodium hydroxide does not create this corrosion, can I just use the much cheaper iron or regular steel as the electrode plates? Thanks in advance
Posted by JStuyfzand 3 years ago | last reply 25 days ago
The radiator is an old fashion steam radiator that can't be removed from the room. It is made of cast iron.
Here's an idea that someone can use for the robot contest if they want, I would but I just don't have the money.You buy 4 linear actuators (such as the ones here: http://www.firgelliauto.com/product_info.php?cPath=91&products;_id=7)And you attach one to each limb, giving you super strength.I just don't have like 500 dollars to spend
Posted by guyfrom7up 10 years ago | last reply 5 years ago
Hey guys I haven't created an instructable yet, but I know how to connect wires without soldering. Its simple and I am thinking of making an instructable about it. all you need is aluminum foil and eletrical tape. simply connect the wires and tightly wrap them together in aluminum foil. then put eletrical tape around it and there you have it. any ametures(ignore my spelling) like me that dont have a soldering iron can do this. although it is limited, it is easier than soldering. ill eventually try to make an instructable though.
Posted by hunter1125 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
Hi guys, I am an industrial design student at the University of Alberta in Canada looking for some help for my project. I have been assigned to redesign a soldering iron and research on how to make this tool better with input from users in the specified market. In this case, I am looking for first timers or beginners who have just been introduced to soldering and gear my improvements towards their needs. My primary design goal is to lessen the learning curve by addressing issues of safety and comfort. I have posted some questions as part of my research and would love the input. All input is welcomed regardless of skill level. Thank you for your help! Soldering Iron Design Survey 1. What is your experience and skill level? ( None, beginner, average, expert) 2. Which type of soldering iron do you use? The gun shaped one or the pen type? 3. In what environment / setting do you use it most? eg. workbench, kitchen table. 4. What were some of the needs you had for the too and were they metl? (Needs meaning minimum expectations, without which the product would be a failure) 5. What were some of the wants you had for the tool? 6. What were some problems you encountered when you first used a soldering iron? 7. Which aspects of a soldering iron besides functionality do you consider being the most important? eg. comfort, safety etc. Thanks for your help! Justin
Asked by jchan3ualberta 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
I am trying to make my guitar look like the armor of Iron Man. I have seen lots of versions, but the Arc Reactors I have seen are all too thick to mount under the strings on a guitar. I just want to make the triangle that lights up in the center. What materials can I use to make the frame the exact size and height that I need? And what can I use for the top cover? I never made anything like this before. So any help would be appreciated. I included a pic of the guitar. I would like the reactor to cover where the middle pickup used to be. Thanks!
Asked by Guitarplayer06 6 years ago
What could be better on a cold, rainy Friday than grilled cheese sandwiches? I know, nothing! Sarah and I made some last Friday, taking inspiration from this Instructable. We used aluminum foil instead of freezer paper, and put butter on the outside of the bread so we got lovely browned sandwiches.I made another today. It's my New Favorite Method!
Posted by rachel 9 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
I soldered a lot but from some time,my problem is that after tinning the tip and putting in soldering paste(when needed), I get a layer of a sort of oxide or something,but that is not what bothers me. The big problem is that the solder is not tinning on surfaces (wires and component leads). what can be the cause?(i'm guessing the solder since the problems started after buying new solder)
Asked by theVader75 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago