Asked by mishforsmiles 2 years ago | last reply 2 years ago
Why is it that apparently almost everything contains lead? Almost all metal items appear to have lead... keys, tools, plumbing fittings... Also maybe in plastic. What i'm most annoyed about (and why i asked this) is about lead in plumbing parts. If you go to a hardware store and get a metal plumbing fitting, it should say "Lead Free*" but then when you look at the details, it would say something like "The wetted surface of this product contains less than 0.25% of lead by weight". Basically you'd probably always find it saying "less than x%". But why can't it be ZERO? Maybe it's because their metals are always contaminated and they cannot make it 100% lead free? Also, what about metal items like tools and keys? Why do they have to put lead in the metal? Does it make it easier to manufacture or something?
Asked by poiihy 2 years ago | last reply 2 years ago
Asked by Alchemyst 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
Hello, ive just tried to make lead acetate by putting lead into a mix of lead metal, acetic acid, and hydrogen peroxide, but nothing has happened , the hydrogen peroxide just decomposed by the lead, and then the solution because all frothy and grey. i understand now that lead dissolves very slowly in acetic acid. is there a faster way to make lead acetate?Ive been looking online , and nowhere does it say how long it takes to make, aside from one place that says it makes 30g per year! using just lead and vinegar. also, would electrolysis work? using two lead electrodes? i managed to make copper acetate of a high concentration (solution turned very deep blue), would the same work with lead? ir would it just make HHO?
Asked by oldmanbeefjerky 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
I'm making a ball mill but am having trouble acquiring lead ball bearings.
Asked by WareOuttaHair 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
Asked by top.boy 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
What I do!? When I was wrighting my Math homework and my stupid pencil lead broke, few up in my eye! And its stuck! I've tried watering it out, but no luck. Looked in the mirror and theres a faint black line under my eye (not on/in it, I mean in between). Will the pencil lead do something bad to my eye? Will I need special treatment to remove it? Is it possible my body "somehow" remove that lead in my eye?
Asked by BIO Wolf 9 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
Could cleaning with bleech on lead paint cause temporary stroke like symptoms and fetal distress? ? Answered
I rent my home. When I moved here with three children, I was told there was no lead paint. Seven years later, I became pregnant. While cleaning, I used bleech to clean walls and floors and shelves and windows. I also scraped and repainted some areas. One night, I went to the store with my eldest daughter and had slight pain and numbness on one side of my body. I also couldnt speak properly or complete a responsive answer with correct words. My sentences were inappropriate. It lasted about 24 hours and got better. I felt extremely fatigued but blamed pregnancy. A few days later, I was sick, enormously fatigued and had sharp abdominal pain unlike labor. I went to the hospital and my baby's heart rate was failing. He was dieing. He was taken by emergency c-section, two months early and recovered in the newborn intensive care for three weeks. I recently found out that the home i rent does indeed contain lead paint and probably a good deal of it. The home owner found out about a state program that would come in and do all kinds of renovations for free if he signed up. Then he discovered that he would have to pay the back taxes on the home and cover the cost of the inspectors and opted not to have the lead removed. I am still living here with my children.
Asked by Everan 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
What solder to use to keep it from eroding my s-iron tip i like lead-tin but i am not sure if rosin-cores by themselves not erode soldering iron tips lead-free solder uses antimony, another neurotic metal that can cause cancer
Asked by cavemen 9 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
Posted by sk8r-ryan 11 years ago | last reply 5 years ago
I found a 6v closed lead battery as found in UPS systems. I'd like to get in in condition again and found a schematic for a charger/revitalisor for motorcycle batteries. But those are open batteries, and I found chargers specifically for that type somewhere as well. Could I use it anyway or is that a bad idea?
Asked by Fozzy Vis 9 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
Should I worry about the lead (solder) content in old sticks of RAM that I want to sell as keychain charms?
I have a lot of old sticks of RAM (the ones that predate PC100). I have been cutting them in half on a band saw and then attaching keychain rings in the existing holes. I'd like to sell these as novelty items but wonder about the lead content in the solder. Toughts? Thanks, Okie
Asked by okieinAZ 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
I have a couple of battered old car batteries. There is no local scrap dealer that will take them so I was wondering if it would be possible to extract the lead myself and sell it for scrap. I have searched on google and cannot find anything about this and I suspect it would be dangerous and impractical. However I thought there's no harm in asking here. I was imagining that I could open the battery up and pour the acid into some kind of strong alkali, neutralising it to make it safe for disposal. But then, I certainly wouldn't like to try this without some advice first. Cheers! Pete
Posted by peater 8 years ago | last reply 3 months ago
So me and papa have been working on farm equipment and an electric golf cart (and I had issues with my jeep cranking over, with a presumably bad battery), but my lack of knowledge of these batteries used in the machines is starting to get to me. Differentiating normal behavior from behavior indicating a bad battery or other problems is not really something I can do right now. What I know: Topped off voltage: 15 (ish) volts ( details?) Dead flat voltage: 10 volts Cold cranking amps: indication of maximum current a battery can deliver in the cold (details ?) Reserve minutes: equivalent to "AH" rating times conversion factor lead acids can take a beating and survive without a, less say, "exciting" failure mode What I don't know: How am I supposed to know what I don't know???? ;) What is a typical topped off voltage for a battery? Does the voltage sag from say 16V when charger is removed? What characteristics change as they age? I would guess increased leakage current/resistance, reduced current capability and reduced capacity (?) would you lose a bit of capacity real quick after cycling a deep cycle marine battery a few times? I know lithium ions do, every new phone I ever had has lost at least 10% of it's capacity in a few short months as it got "broken in." What about maximum charging current? Does ripple current matter?
Asked by -max- 2 years ago | last reply 2 years ago
Please suggest me a charging circuit for 12V 7.2 Ah lead acid battery without application of transformer
I am using 12V 7.2Ah Amaron Quanta lead acid battery for an Emergency Lamp. I am using the following charging circuit which is attached with this post. In this charging circuit, 230 ac voltage is given as input to the 16-0-16 transformer. The output of transformer is filtered through rectifier diodes and then given as input to the LM317 of charging circuit. As of now transformer is needed to step down the ac input voltage. I need a charging circuit without a transformer. So kindly suggest me a circuit which consists of input rectification without a transformer. Please suggest it with a moderate cost. And also I need one more clarification. I am using "Constant Voltage" - trickle charging method to charge the battery. I am using a load of 2 lamps of total 110 W lamps which stand for around 50 minutes of full charged battery. The lamps will cut-off at 9.5-9.8 V. Then it takes around 16 hours to make the battery full charge. Could you please confirm me if I can charge the battery soon (min 6 hours). Is so at what rate I should use the load. Please help me in this situation. I mention the website link which I am currently using for charger circuit. http://www.circuitstoday.com/lead-acid-battery-charger In this circuit, I am using a 16-0-16 transformer to convert the line voltage of 230V ac and bridge rectifier diodes to convert it into dc. Please suggest me a circuit without the application of transformer to convert 230V ac to dc. My mail id is email@example.com. Thanks, Thomas.
Asked by tvibakar 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
Hello, i just ripped apart a sealed lead acid battery, and have salvaged the plates, but now i have a problem, two actually i have two types of plates one is red-brown, the other, light grey , which i suspect is just lead, which, through my powers of deduction leaves me to beleive the redish crystaline substance that makes up the positive plates must be lead sulfate. what i want to know, is what this red substance is, and if it is lead sulfate, how do i convert it into sulfuric acid? ive tried electrolysis, but the ph doesnt seem to change beyond normal, for plian old hho electrolysis! am i getting something wrong here?
Asked by oldmanbeefjerky 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
I want a battery that is capable of delivering 12V for a minimum period of an hour. My circuit will take 5-10A. And what loader should I use with it?
Asked by Coding Kid 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
Well I might start making some BEAM bots but I am having some trouble deciding what solder i need to use for good safety and good performance. Thanks for you time. -redcorvette1
Asked by redcorvette1 9 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
I currently live in China and am thinking about painting my apartment, however I am bit nervous about getting a paint that isn't lead-free. My Chinese speaking/reading abilities are still infantile, and even equipped with the means to ask about the paint I fear the reliability of the answer. Call me an empirophilic westerner, but I would much rather test the paint for myself. Is there a simple test (possibly household chemical) that I can perform to help me out?
Asked by rasputinsauntie 9 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
What is an efficient way to remove any traces of paint from an Altoids lid or anywhere else with paint? Answered
There are toxins in paint on altoids tins. How do I get it all off so it doesn't riddle my food with lead?
Asked by mason0190 9 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
I have two 6-volt ~4.5 AH batteries, and I'm not sure how to charge them. I know that overcharging and voltage regulation can be an issue. They have markings on the outside that say "standby voltage ( voltage)", "intermettent use voltage (voltage)", and I was wondering what voltage I use to charge them, how I know when they're fully charged, etc. Advice is welcome. Thanks!
Asked by mad magoo 9 years ago | last reply 1 year ago
How could I charge two Sealed Lead-Acid batteries at the same time and power 2 differnet devices? Answered
Could somebody please help me? I cant find a way too charge 2 SLA's at the same time and run 2 seperate devices and make it so I can power one device one one battery and another device powered by the other battery. There some some writing on the battery casing But I don't really understand but it reads: ______Constant Voltage Charge_______ I Voltage Regulation I I Cycle Use 14.4 - 14.7V I I Standby use 13 .15 - 13.8V I I Max charging current 1.2A I _________________________________ Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Asked by CyclonicNinja 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
Hey guys, I want to bug you's again. Instead of trying to ask about different things in one of my other topics, I wanted to start a new one. I went to the local dump today, and one of the first things I spotted was Three, not just one, booster packs. You know, the ones you can charge up and boost a car with, and some of them have inverters built into them so you can run small appliances. Well I snapped all three of them up, thinking that at the very least, the lead acid batteries inside them would be OODLES of help towards making a full scale wind generator (I plan to build one or two full size wind generators with car alternators, whenever the good weather comes and I can work outside). Well, I got them home and cracked them all open. Turns out that only one battery is good to me (pictures below). The two identical units have 350 watt inverters built into them (I've removed one so far), but the batteries were bulging and the sides were split open, although not leaking, which was good, less mess to clean up. The third booster pack I opened appeared to have been already attempted at being opened. 4 of the 6 screws had been drilled out (which is beyond me as far as why they would do it? They were only phillips screws), but maybe they weren't successful? It had a couple wounds of electrical tape around it to hold it together. Needless to say, whatever cutting tool they used, cut into the battery itself (they cut too far in, dumbasses...), and so my main question here is, is the battery safe to charge, and use? I took some macro's of the damage and some of the cut marks seemed to have gone far enough in to cut into what appears to be a white plastic lining inside, as the white crud on the sides of the battery feels more like burnt on plastic from a cutting disc than it does acid that oozed out and dried up, so the damage doesn't appear to be that bad. What's the worst that could happen anyways? Also, the battery has about almost 8v left in it, and another question is, is that too low for a 12v battery? Like has it been discharged too far? Also, aside from the battery. I found this plate with a transformer, giant capacitor, and a pcb that looks like it was some kind of voltage converter board (I would take a picture but I've since cut a few things off of it and I won't even bother now) The transformer puts out 25v and you can see in the pictures what the capacitor is rated for (I would like to know what I can use this capacitor for, or if I should save it and wait till I can make a bank of capacitors for a tesla coil project or something) What I can't figure out, is what is this square device I found that was plugged into one of the output leads of the transformer? It only had two leads coming off of it, one is marked + and one -, the other two terminals don't have marking on it. No model numbers or anything. Does anyone know what this is? Also, last in my pictures is one of the inverter boards I pulled out of one of the power-packs. I cut the second outlet off and wrapped the first one in tape just to make sure I dont' shock the hell out of myself. I have my truck battery sitting inside over the winter, and with a good 12.71v, I thought it would be the perfect battery to try the inverter on. I brushed the wires onto the top terminals of the battery and although I could hear a bit of sparking, I saw nothing and the indicator light on the power switch didn't light. The volt meter also showed nothing from the 120v outlet. So I tried shoving the wires into the bolt sockets that the truck's wires bolt into, and I quite literally startled myself as it emitted a really loud BEEEEEEEEEEP, I nearly jumped through the roof. The indicator light turns on when I flick the switch to I and I can hear the transformer making a little buzzing sound. However, when I measured the AC voltage from the outlet, I didn't write down the voltage, but it was around 3v? Not even quite that much. I'm not sure if the inverter is screwed or if it has something to do with the switching nature of power inverters causing my multi-meter to not read it right? One other thing I will note is that I had to cut the power switch leads to remove it from the case, then re-solder the switch. The switch has 2 black wires and one red, I tried my best to make sure that each black wire went to the terminal on the switch it came from, and I assume if I didn't hook the switch up right, it wouldn't have lighted up or anything right?? I don't want to try plugging something into it for fear that it will blow up in my face, at least not until I know it's functioning like it should be, however I doubt these power packs were throwing out for failure of the inverter... *On the side note* I apologize for these (sometimes) rediculously long posts or just mundane questions. However, I like to be thoughrough with my questions so that there are very little questions asked, about my question, in the first place. As it seems to waste a lot of time asking for details about this or that problem, when you could just throughly explain it all in one go. This is what I try to do, so there are no blank spaces for you guys to try and "assume" where you don't know the proper information. Secondly, I've really appreciated the help, and sometimes just the helpful and creative ideas I hear from others, makes me feel good, like there's actually some people on here that know what they're doing and I can trust their answers (Nacho, kiteman, caitlyn's dad, 1010100100, all of you regulars, have been great help to me) *End of girlish requiem*
Posted by Punkguyta 9 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
I have a 1996 Volvo 850 GTL Wagon. We drive it infrequently, averaging 2 trips per week. If it isn't driven in 10 - 14 days, the battery will invariably be dead, and I'll need to jump start it, or charge it with a trickle charger overnight. At first, I thought the battery was worn out even though it was wasn't quite to the end of its warranty period. I replaced it, but this didn't solve the problem. Next, I thought our typically short trips weren't allowing the battery to fully charge, so I specifically changed my driving habits and used the trickle charger to top up the battery on a regular basis. After doing this, the battery would measure in the 12.3 to 12.6 V range, but after two weeks without driving would be again be dead, measuring in the 11 V or lower range. Even after needing a jump-start, the battery will start the car again after just 5 minutes of driving. I've measured the steady-state current draw from the battery after the car has been off for several minutes to several hours using both a clamp-on style ammeter (<0.1 amps; lowest the clamp-on could measure) and an inline current meter between the negative terminal and the negative terminal's clamp (40 mA). 40 mA seems reasonable from what I can find online, and shouldn't be enough to drain the battery over 2 weeks. So, I have an 11-month old battery that won't hold a charge for two weeks, and I'm fairly confident there's no abnormal current draws from the car. Should I replace the battery again and hope for the best? Is there any truth (and references!) to claims that a lead-acid battery once drained too low can never recover? Updated with new information for the various suggestions below: After fully charging the battery, I disconnected it for 48 hours. It remained at 12.6 volts over the entire period, and when I reconnected it, easily started the car. I don't suspect the alternator: When the car is running, 5-6 amps flows into the battery and the voltage on the battery is 13.6 V; and if I drive the car once or twice a week, the battery never dies. I do suspect something with the keyless remote. I stopped using my keyless remote years ago because I found it too bulky to carry around -- I lock and unlock the car using the key in the door. Christy still uses her keyless remote. Recently, she was the last one to drive the car before we went out of town for 10 days. When we got back, I was positive the battery would be dead, but it started the car without a problem. So, I ran the experiment of leaving the car unlocked, locked with the key, and locked with the keyless remote. After a few days, the battery would be dead when locked with they key, but not when locked with the keyless remote or left unlocked. Frustratingly, I've checked the current draw in all three configurations, and it's 40 mA in each case (and stays that way for several minutes). For now, I have a solution that keeps the battery from dying if I don't regularly drive the car, but I'd still like to understand what is going on. Updated with solution 2010-09-02 At the car's next regular service, the shop recognized the problem. On cars of this type and age, the crimp on the positive terminal can fail turning the positive wire to the battery into a resistor rather than a wire. This is diagnosed by measuring the charging voltage on the battery and giggling the wire (it will jump around, and not remain at the required 13.8 V), and by noticing that the wire itself is hot. Volvo recently released a fix for this, and previously the shop had to remove the entire wiring harness, at great expense, to fix it. So, my battery was never getting fully charged, and I've selected the best answer from among the suggestions that my measured charging voltage was too low.
Asked by ewilhelm 8 years ago | last reply 4 years ago
I have one that's been dead for several months. It's 12v, 4AH. It's sealed lead-acid rechargable battery, any ideas on how to revive it? Also, how would you charge this kind of battery?
Asked by 1up 9 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
Hello, i want to try and make some lead dioxide electrodes, but i have no clue as to how. i need to make lead dioxide, then apparently mix it with a binding agent to make an electrode, and thats all the info i could find could someone please fill me in on the rest? like what that binding agent is and so on, what is the proccess involved in turning lead into lead dioxide? i have some old car batteries due to go to the dump as they are working at less that 50% efficiency which was apparently enough reason for my dad to say theyre ready for the dump! is it true that the lead sheets inside the batteries are just pure lead dioxide? the reason i need it is to make sodium chlorate, and in extension, potassium chlorate, and i dont want to use graphite electrodes as they will errode away, plus i cant afford any platinum electrodes, nor can i find them for that matter!
Asked by oldmanbeefjerky 7 years ago | last reply 2 years ago
How can I test plated or unplated metal components for lead content? The components I have are all kinds of metal washers, nuts, gears, wires, etc. I know there are at-home lead testers available, but they are not really made for testing metal components. I have over 50 different samples to test, so the $4 swabs are too expensive.
Asked by robinesque 9 years ago | last reply 1 year ago
I am designing a solar panel charger for usb devices, I have a 12V 3A lead acid battery and I want that reduced to 5V 1A to comply with most portable devices, Help is much appreciated and diagrams would be ideal
Asked by EmptyCoffin92 4 years ago | last reply 4 years ago
I want to make a ball mill but I can't find any lead fishing sinkers (they're bad for the environment so nobody sells them anymore). Is there anything else I can use to grind chemicals in a ball mill that won't create sparks?
Asked by Ke-Bob 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
Regarding charging a sealed lead acid battery, can i just apply a 12v wall wart at an amperage around a tenth of the rated Ah? i.e. 12v 700mA for a 7Ah battery (for what, 10hours?) in context i'm looking at making some computer speakers (2.1) portable with a battery such as: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/YUASA-fire-intruder-alarm-battery-12v-7Ah-lead-acid_W0QQitemZ290422260055QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_AudioElectronicsVideo_Video_TelevisionSetTopBoxes?hash=item439e840157i know these may not be suitable for deep cycle charging/draining, does this use count? and will i be damaging it with 12V constant even if i take off charge once i have worked out the time to charge it for? (dividing the amp-hours by the amp rating of the wall charger gives the number of hours right?) any help possible would be great, i want to get this project rolling and of course ill post it up here!?
Asked by jamesjamesjames 8 years ago | last reply 2 years ago
I found a hideously fake £2 coin in my change, I bit into it to double check and it left a noticeable tooth mark (also upon closer inspection the gold bits were rubbing off and it had an overall wedge shape to it). Because it's nice and soft and now worthless as currency, I thought I'd try that turn a quarter into a ring instructable with it. After only a few taps I saw a noticeable difference and it now occurs to me that it's probably made of lead. Bottom Line: - Dulled silvery metal - Very soft (can leave toothmarks if I bite hard) - Need a definite way to tell if it's lead before I attempt to make a ring out of it. I know it's not gonna kill me unless I keep attempting to take bites out of it, but I'd still like to know, thanks. (also I don't have access to any chemistry equipment for proper tests)
Asked by madmanmoe64 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
I took a charger that matches what I need to charge a car battery. The charger uses a transformer and has 3 connections, as does the battery it's intended for (+/-/T). When I plug the + and - alone with the original battery, the switch kicks in and the charger doesn't charge. When I plug all three, it charges fine. What can I do to charge the car battery? It only has a - and + and when I plug it in, I can hear the same switch kick in and it won't charge. I need to do something with that earth conncetion. I thought of plugging it to an 'earth' in the wall but I don't want to inadvertently introduce high voltage to the circuit. I sketched the circuit in my process to get here, here it is (hopefully correct :) )-
Asked by gilrstein 3 years ago | last reply 3 years ago
Hi, I want to run a battery operated item that takes its power directly from my 50cc mopeds 12v 4ah battery. The item takes a minimum of 60w and can take upto 100w which I'm told, could drain the mopeds battery too much even when the engine is running at full speed charging the battery. Can I connect an adustable 6-24v step up inverter to the main bikes battery and use it to install and charge a second 12v bike battery purley to power the 60w to 100w electrical item while its in use, saving my main bikes battery to besure it won't run out of enough power to start the moped after Ive finnished using the electrical item? Im sorry but I not good at electonics and need your input to help guide me to run the item from my 50cc scooter/moped.
Posted by selectauto 5 years ago | last reply 5 years ago
Over the weekend, I learned that most lead in drinking water comes from plumbing within the house. from Curaflo's history of piping materials:In 1986, Congress banned the use of lead solder containing greater than 0.2% lead, and restricted the lead content of faucets, pipes and other plumbing materials to 8.0%.This so-called "lead-free" brass can still legally contain up to 8% lead, and plumbing systems installed prior to 1986 can contain high levels of lead from both plumbing components and lead solder. The presence of lead in water from the tap is indicative of serious pipe corrosion that must be corrected for health reasons.So, I plan to test my home's water for lead content. Have you seen a comparison of the various home testing kits? Which one is the best?
Asked by ewilhelm 9 years ago | last reply 5 years ago
This is my first post ever and I am completely new to this but would like to be able to charge a sealed lead acid battery. The battery is 12V12Ah / 20HR. Is it possible to charge directly from power supply which is 12V30A or do I need a resistor to limit current? Besides a power supply is it also possible to recharge the battery a different way? I tried online and made a circuit that didn't really output correct voltage. Can anybody please help?
Asked by Etronix 1 year ago | last reply 1 year ago
I am thinking of making a bread toaster using graphite rods which would heat up when a high current is applied to them. How would I go about doing this? What voltage would I need to use to supply it?
Asked by lardbob 9 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
Asked by Daniel Deacon 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
I have two lead acid batteries rated 6v 4.5 AH (is AH ampere? or ampere/hour) boast/equalize 7.2-7.5v float 6.75-6.9v max charge current 1.35A both my batteries are identical the question now is.. i want to build a charger for it and something to lower is current so some feature i want is 1) rechargeable by a simple plug in adapter (i have a 12v 4A ac-dc adapter) 2) output of usb voltage and current (optional adjustable current and voltage) 3)led indicates 4)optional: a switch to power usb devices directly from the adapter/bypass battery to extend battery life 5)around 5 usb out puts? i want to build this project cos i have the won batteries which are in good conditions but not being used in anyway.. i hope someone can help me with the technical specs..especially on the circuit diagram have access to an electrical components shop but it does not sell chips so i need to salvage them
Asked by michaelgohjs 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
Hello, I am looking for a low power (watts) pc to play world of Warcraft I'm talking of a custom build computer Reason: I'm into solar power and green energy I have 2 Solar panels 1 15 watt panel and 1 30 watt panel. I like to play around and tweak computers ---- Aim: to get the lowest possible wattage computer to play world of Warcraft =========================================================== What I need you to do: Advise me on what components I need to buy example SSD hard drive ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Budget: I'm afraid I'm on a budget at the moment as i only get paid £120 a month with £0 in the bank i can save up for a few months if required however. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Size: Size is not a problem _____________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Weight: Weight is not a problem ----------------------------------------
Asked by Daniel Deacon 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
I've read that regular soft lead balls can wear out extremely quickly and contaminate mixtures in a ball mill, but what about these hardened lead antimony balls? I don't really fancy the idea of breathing in a lot of lead dust after a couple hours of milling. http://www.pyrocreations.com/inc/sdetail/11961 Would it be a good idea to get the lead balls from this website (found under "ball mills and media") for my ball mill (for making potentially explosive chemicals)? I've considered getting brass balls, but they are unbelievably expensive. I've also considered getting a brass bar and cutting it, but that's not cheap either and I don't know where to get a brass bar. Plus, apparently brass wears down quickly too, so it seems like a lot of trouble when I can just get lead balls, as long as they don't wear out too badly.
Asked by Ke-Bob 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
These days a lot of jewellery is testing as containing dangerous levels of lead and cadmium, mostly Chinese imports. How could a consumer test jewellery for cadmium, easily and cheaply at home, please? I can't find anything online about how to test for cadmium.
Asked by Lickyboomboom 3 years ago | last reply 1 year ago
Can I charge a 6v SLA battery with a small voltage-regulation circuit based on the LM350 and a 12v SLA?
I know that Lead Acids are pretty tough cookies in the battery world as far as over-voltage and charging goes, but since I lack an electronic engineering education, I would like to make sure I don't blow H2SO4 everywhere. I would be monitoring the charging to see when the current drops to the low mA's, and would not have the battery on a constant trickle charge for very long. I just need the cheapest way possible to charge the battery >.< any other recommendations would be appreciated! I had been borrowing a bench supply, but had to return it and now have nothing. *forever alone*
Asked by mojofilta 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
I have three, 12v, 22ah SLA batteries wired in series to make a pack that is 36v and 22ah. The charger I have is the very crude kind which is essentially just a transformer. It says it outputs 36v at 1.6a. The batteries are empty, this will be the first time I am charging them. How can I tell when then are finished charging? Can I use a multimeter? If not, then what? Thank you in advance for your help.
Asked by ___ 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
I have a ballast that I want to connect to a transformer, The ballast has two red leads, a black lead, a white lead, and a blue lead. I have no idea what the blue lead is for, or if it's even necessary. Can someone help?
Asked by Shagglepuff 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago