i have a magic mist lamp with led ligths that change . i would like it to remain blue how can i do it
Can i change the led bulbs? where do i get them
Can i change the led bulbs? where do i get them
Hi, I need some advice on how to wire up a homemade mirror heater or demister. I have an old toaster which I have gutted to get the heating elements. I also have a few old wallwarts to power the thing. Is using these wires the right thing to use as a heat source? It doesn't have to get hot, just slightly warm. What kind of circuitry will I need to warm up the wire? I also got some modelling latex to embed this wires in to make a heating "pad" for the mirror and to insulate it. Is there a better material I can enclose the elements in. Thanks.
Posted by Armbie 11 years ago | last reply 11 years ago
I need instruction on how to build an outdoors mist cooling system to attach to a fan. I have the 2 fans installed in the area one in each corner and a water facuet under one of the fans?
Here's an idea: Yesterday I was out on my motorcycle and it started to drizzle or mist very lightly. Helmet starts fogging so I open all the vents. The cool, clean and misty air rushing through the helmet was like a sort of inner piece. Like those mountain mornings or early fall mornings by the lake. Just gave a great feeling and I instantly felt refreshed and energetic. Anybody have an idea for recreating this feeling in a small space, say 10 x 10 room. I do have a cool mist humidifier for when I am sick but it is not nearly the same feeling. I've tried searching for some sort of product but have come up mostly empty handed and imagine it would be rather pricey anyways. Examples of said feeling: http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-STNHl9kfFc8/TYmDflagaUI/AAAAAAAADPA/fbkHM6FQttQ/s1600/Morning%2BFog.jpg http://www.sticksite.com/blog-2010/foggy.jpg http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/c3/Misty_morning.jpg If you have a thought or idea I thank you plenty!!
Posted by HAGGURD 5 years ago | last reply 5 years ago
Asked by jenmar77 7 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
I hope my mom doesn't see this, its going to be her birthday gift hopefully ;D. I was looking around instructables for good projects for my garden-loving and food-growing mom, and noticed several hydroponic systems. They all looked nice, but I noticed one thing: they all used the nutrient-film or submerged plant technique. I'm no expert, but this seemed bad for the roots. Rot, anyone? I recalled a system I had seen at Walt Disney World in the distant past (OK, 4 years ago :P), where plants roots passed through a nutrient-laden mist. This seemed a better solution to me, allowing the best nature of hydroponics to take root (no pun intended lol): supplying the roots with nutrients while allowing them to breathe and supporting them. I thought about how to create the mist and it hit me: a hose sprayer. Most sprayers nowadays come with an adjuster nozzle to change the flow, so if one were to move it to "mist" position, tape down the handle and attach it to a large submersible pump on a timer, you have a cheap aeroponics system. I'll be writing an instructable when I can, so stay tuned for updates.
Posted by Rotten194 9 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
I am trying to make a misting system for a hydroponic garden but the pump i have is hopelessly inadequate (impeller type,185gph for 10 small mist nozzles). will a bigger gph output provide the pressure or am i gonna have to drop $300 plus for one of the specialized mister pumps.?
Asked by RyshusMojo 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
Lets say I put a mister on my condenser outside, and when the air conditioning comes on it sprays water mist on the condenser. The idea would be: as the water evaporates on the coil it will remove more heat from the unit and it wont run so much.
Asked by BluTiger 8 years ago | last reply 3 months ago
I've been struggling to build an aeroponics system and the only problem I have right now is the misting system. I purchased some misting nozzles off amazon that I inserted into some vinyl tubing and sealed with a silicon sealant. I used a small DC 6V pump powered by my Arduino to pump the water to the nozzles. Now the little pump couldn't provide enough pressure to create a mist of water (I think its pump rate was something like 15GPH) it came out with some of the water leaking while a steady stream sprayed in four directions. So my question to the instructables community is was it my little pumps fault or did I get ripped off buying bad nozzles? What pump should I buy that will pump enough pressure to create a mist? here are the nozzles I bought and here's the pump I bought: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004HHW0FU/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00 <-- the pump http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004U3MRIG/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00 <-- the nozzles One more thing, I was thinking of a misting system which I'm unsure will work. I got the idea driving behind a truck after the rain when the road was wet. The wheels were spraying a mist behind them as they drove over the wet road. Could I simulate that effect at all with an electric motor and a small wheel?
Asked by thecoonskin 6 years ago | last reply 2 years ago
It has been very hot lately so and i have always wanted a mister (as spraying mist) i have an ordinary spray bottle already but i need to know a way i can modify it or use the sprayer head attached to something i make, so that it sprays a fine mist (if there is a difference between that and regular mist). Appreciate it. Thanks!
Asked by lbolt 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
<br> Saw this on Lifehacker today. I would to see someone come up with a way to convert this to a PORTABLE system! http://www.costco.com/Browse/Product.aspx?Prodid=11293723&search=misting%20fan&topnav=&Mo=0&cm_re=1_en-_-Top_Left_Nav-_-Top_search%C3%A2%C2%8C%C2%A9=en-US&Nr=P_CatalogName:BC&N=5000043&whse=BC&Dx=mode%20matchallpartial&Ntk=Text_Search&Dr=P_CatalogName:BC&Ne=4000000&D=misting%20fan&Ntt=misting%20fan&No=0&Nty=1&Ntx=mode%20matchallpartial<br>
Posted by mazelady 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
I've made a laser grid, and I want to see the beans without using water mist. I'm using a standard laser pointer, the kind you get from the dollar store. Is there some way I can see them with goggles or mist?
Asked by XOIIO 9 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
What I was wondering is if, you could have a sled that could make ice to sled on. This can be divided into multiple questions. 1. Is it possible to have a tank of nitrogen and water in front of a sled, so that it combines nitrogen and water in a mist to create a thin layer of ice in front of the sled? Would there be any major changes to make it plausible? 2. Is there another way to make a thin layer of ice? 3. OR does this whole idea deserve the trashcan? I'm trying to put our heads together for ideas, by posting this question..... So try to look for possible solutions. Thanks, Paul
Asked by bethekind 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
*EDIT* IT WORKS!!! Hi everyone, this is a simple DIY snow machine. It utilizes external mixing which not only increases the production but also eliminates the risk of water backing down the air line and vise versa. I will not be making an instructable but possibly a video displaying its qualities. It only needs an air compressor with the standard quick connect end and a regular garden hose. It works and I may be selling a few on ebay for ~$75 each and will include a professional looking instruction manual. This produces a very large mist and i have yet to measure its snow making capabilities. I expect it to make about 2" per hour over a 200 square foot area. Please comment and rate!!
Posted by Electroinnovation 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
I noticed that there are a lot more part suppliers for mister type cooling systems. i am thinking of fabricating one . i was thinking of using the same parts used in the air zound bicycle air horn. i could use a small bike pump and schrader valve to turn a 2 liter soda bottle into the pressure chamber , i think i would have to wrap it in gorilla tape for the added pressure.. i am not sure if i could also put water into it. i did a search and didn't see any instructables on building cooling misting systems.any ideas?
Asked by escapefromyonkers 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
Some people may have seen or read the highhly anticipated series of Kick Ass. ( As I started typing this, the commercial came on. :) I personally read the comics and loved them. Mark Millar is a wonderful comic book writer, and he keeps his movies pretty true to the comics. That being said, Kick Ass, was mostly on point. The comics were a bit different, and Red Mist was a bit nerdier in the movie. Overall, I loved the comics, and movie. Check them out. The big news, Mark Millar has announced that there will be a sequel to the movie called Kick Ass 2:Balls To the Wall. Not only is he making this movie, he also announced, he will write a second series! He also suggested that Kick Ass was always going to be a Trilogy. SPOILERS: I have read in several places, the second movie, and comic book series, will revolve around the concept what if real people became super-villains. Mark Millar said that Red-Mist will become what Joker is to Batman. However, Red Mist will be a sidekick to a bigger villain. (He is contemplating on calling the evil team the MF'ers or the wonderful C word that hit girl said.) He went on to say that the third part will be a 10 years later, kind of thing.
Posted by mg0930mg 8 years ago
Have an idea for a Evaporative Cooler. In most conventional coolers a fan pulls warm air through a panel that is constantly soaked in water, the water pulls the heat from the air. Another form of this system is the simple "Mister Jets" that spray a fine mist into the air which pull the heat from the air dropping the temperature. My idea is a combination of the two... See Image. The concept is simple... - Fan pulls warm air in and forces it into the body of the cooling unit. - A mister sprays a fine mist that combines with the air pulling the heat out. - To remove the fine air molecules a synthetic membrane (like pond filter material) is used to collect the vapor and allow the air to pass freely through. - The resulting water will make its way down the membrane and drip into the water basin below. - The pump will then recirculate the water back through the system. Seems like an easy enough system, the only problems I can see are... - Mildew - Leaks - Filter doesn't remove all the water So let me know if you guys think this will work.
Posted by scubaru 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
I am working on a misting system that would operator wirelessly. I want to spray the bug spray with the click of a button in my back yard. It needs to be pretty small but really I am trying to figure the easiest way to either pump liquid from a small water bottle or a spray bottle. Thoughts?
Asked by scottzkee 3 years ago | last reply 3 years ago
I am living 100 meters from the sea which results in high humidity from time to time. Got the message this morning: CPU fan has failed. Discovered a lot of moisture inside my pc and the dust in the fan has become muddy. We had a lot of rain and mist of late. What does the people on ships do? And others who live this close to the sea? I would really appreciate ideas on what to do to prevent that from happening again.
Asked by tishza 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
I have a ball python and i am trying to raise the humidity in his tank, i have a large water dish over a UTH and i have paper over half of the mesh top (quick fix, i need to get plastic wrap). i would mist his tank, but i am not home enough to do it consistantly, would putting a piece of sea sponge sitting in a dish of water be healthy or would it be detrimental to Howard's health?
Asked by .happy.hippie. 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
Hi, my name is Michael and I'm from Austria. Nowadays we have about 38°C (100°F). We have a Terrace which has a area of 33m² (355.21ft²). This terrace has a roof, which consists of polycarbonate plates. We have the problem that it is very hot on our terrace although we use awnings. Now I've discovered some ideas how i could cool down our terrace. The first one could be a water cycle, with a container and a pump. Then the pump could pump up the water. The water flows down the roof and flows back into the container. I don't know if this is a efficient way to cool down our terrace? The 2nd possibility I discovered is water mist. I found this video to show the principle: http://youtu.be/bYTcMCm2zWg I don't know if it is possible to sit underneath the water mist without getting wet?? I just want some Ideas and oppinions. Maybe some of you have realized their own cooling system? I know how to program an Arduino and other microcontrollers and I am able to develop electronic circuits. So I think i have the basic knowledge for building such a system, but I can't decide which principle i should use? I am sorry for my bad english skills, but i hope that you can understand me. Thanks in advance Mike
Posted by MiKe1753 5 years ago | last reply 5 years ago
Has anyone ever burned wood inside an electric or gas oven? I was thinking of modding and oven with refractory cement, and a water mist sprayer,for bread baking, when it occurred to me that broken gas/electric ovens are cheap, mostly air tight and temperature resistant,to say the least. Obviously burning wood in them is not an UL approved usage, but clearly these devices are tested a lot more than your average barrel stove design.. So, any experience with this idea?
Posted by Ronyon 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
Gift ideas? My little brother loves Nintendo any craft I can make for him? My sisters birthdays is coming up (its on NewYears Eve) And my boyfriend...uh I'm clueless about, I just know not to get him anything pink or easter purple..or hello kitty (or Halo Kitty) Idea exchange? I Got my sister a mist machine for christmas I thought it would be great for their parties and great in general (10 bucks at Family Dollar) And I just got Photo Frames for my parents :| Any better ideas? Thanks!
Posted by WhyHello 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
Hey everyone ! I'm trying to throw together a small audio project Using a electrolytic Mic, an amp, and a small speaker, Basically a Hearing Aid. I'm probably going to use small breakout boards (a mic pre-amp, and a power amp) then hook them up to the speaker but I would like to know if anyone has another Idea? Voltage can be 3.3-5V (Running off a Li-po) Speakers are 8-Ohm, 1.5W I'm not looking for outstanding quality, just clear enough to Easily follow a conversation. Preferably from standard components. Any Ideas? Thanks, Wired Mist
Asked by Wired_Mist 3 years ago | last reply 3 years ago
Has anyone ever burned wood inside an electric or gas oven? I was thinking of modding and oven with refractory cement, and a water mist sprayer,for bread baking, when it occurred to me that broken gas/electric ovens are cheap, mostly air tight and temperature resistant,to say the least. Obviously burning wood in them is not an UL approved usage, but clearly these devices are tested a lot more than your average barrel stove design.. So, any experience with this idea?
Asked by Ronyon 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
Hey guys, I need some help. I'm working on making a horse costume for an event. The horse will be out interacting with public. I want to have speakers in the cheeks that play pre-programmed sounds and I also want it to be able to "sneeeze" I've never worked with arduino before, but I really would like to try and I would like some help or some ideas. The way I'm hoping to have this done is to have the sounds activated by buttons that are close to my fingers so i can just move a finger to get the them, and have the sounds play out the speakers in the cheeks. Also, what I want is when I push a certain button I would like the horse to make the huffing sound and spray water out of it's nose. (I'm going to have a fan in the nose for ventilation, and I'd like it to just spray through the van so that it mists a person) Can someone help with with ideas of: 1) how I can program the separate sounds 2) How to program each sound to a different button and 3) How to program is so that when I push one of the buttons it will simultaneously mist and make the sound. Please remember I'm new to Arduino, so as "dumbed down" as possible would be great. If there's any 'tables up that I may have missed that could help me with this, it would be much appreciated if you could link them to me. Many thanks!
Posted by WhatThePuck 7 years ago
Hi, im currently doing a project which uses a high volume, low pressure water motor and needs to spray a mist, using little pressure. Essentially what im after is something with the same specs as a regular aerosol can spray nozzle, except it needs to be straight, and made of metal, so it wont dissolve in the petroleum oil, or slip . ive tried using a normal spray nozzle but the pressure is too great and no matter how i go about binding the tube to the nozzle it always pops out, either because it grows soft and warps from the petroleum oil in the spray mix, or from the overal lubricating effects. either way, using spray can spray nozzles is bad. For another project ill be doing at the same time, which is for watering my plants, i still also need a straight spray head, prefferbly made of metal, as this one will have a bit more pressure behind it, and i need to be able to absolutely permanently attach the nozzle to a pvc plastic hose. I dont want to vary at all from my design, or compromise with a plastic version. What im after is a straight spray nozzle, aka, not bent, that sprays a mist of roughly more or less the same size and directionality, and angle as a earosol spray canister. for all intents and purposes, my water motor will be putting out perhaps 2/3rds of the pressure of your typical spray can, a normal spray nozzle works fine, so all im after is a metal equivalent, or anything that wont dissolve in petroleum oils, acetone or paint laquer. does anyone know where i can find such a thing? thanks
Asked by oldmanbeefjerky 5 years ago | last reply 5 years ago
Hi I worked really hard on setting up a workable hydroponic set up but for some reason i couldn't get it featured.. i don't know if it's because i did something wrong? maybe i didnt get the correct review.. maybe no one notice in the mists of all these awesome instructables any tips? help also i would like to hear more feedback.. maybe you guys can help? i definetly like to hear people's comments but because i didnt get featured i think i'm getting ignored :( check it out https://www.instructables.com/id/Ultimate-Vertical-Hydroponic-Farm-on-the-Cheap-w/
Posted by mstyle183 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
I am new Urban Botanist and I recently bought Calathea SupriseStar as a houseplant. Clearly they are very very attractive house plant. But I have managed to make some of their leaves very very crunchy & some are droopy. I know they do not like light much, I have kept them aware from window sill & providing them with indirect sunlight. I do live in the UK, so this means the flat does get a bit cold & when the heater is switched on - it does get a bit dry. I try to generate humidity & mist the leaves. What can I do to revive the droopy & crispy leaves. I absolutely love this plant, want to do what it does to fix it.
Asked by AnjanaM6 11 months ago | last reply 11 months ago
We have a cat that's about 13 years old and he's developed arthritis in his hips (as diagnosed by the vet.) We're obviously taking the vet's advice about medication, but since he hates taking pills I was wondering if anyone had other ways to ease his pain a bit. He's definitely not in constant pain - this was diagnosed very early and by accident (getting x-rayed for something else) - it seems to mostly be weather and fatigue related. He still plays like a kitten. I've seen commercials for things you mist into water dishes and stuff, does any of that work? What helps people with arthritis? I know he would be happier if I could come up with some non-pill ways to help him manage!
Asked by technoplastique 9 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
Hi, thanks for stopping by! I need to make about 250 atomisers (not sprinklers) for water for a planned project. I bought some Hozelock misters - which were not cheap - which did not deliver the promised misting action - they were simply poor unadjustable sprinklers. I had thought of getting some hard plastic white plumbing pipe and drilling a 30 degree conical bit into it so that a hole about 0.5mm is made and that the 30 degree cone shape would help direct the spray. Do you think this would work- and should the hole be made smaller perhaps? I use the word atomiser carefully - I'm not bothered about an exact water droplet size but I definately don't want it so big as to be a sprinkler. Have you any thoughts please? Thanks again for looking in. Kevin
Posted by kevinhannan 9 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
I made this ZPM below It is a prop replica from stargate. This is my ZPM 1.0 Im in the process of making 2.0 I want 2.0 to have the following. Items marked with a * are optional. White/Yellow LEDs on pointed up and down. Rechargeable power system. Wireless on/off switch remote Wireless Recharging* The unit mist be 2 1/2" inches wide in diameter and 1 1/2" tall As seen in the picture below I need this project to be Bright as below . Im also going to need a bulk amount. If you can find me the parts/ source and show me the spec data I will pay a finders fee, If you want to build me a quality kit I will buy them in sets of 5. And the same goes for completed units. If you can help me out I will be grateful!
Posted by freeman42718 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
The Cats page (https://www.instructables.com/id/Cats/) incorrectly states that 'Everybody loves cats'. In fact, everybody does NOT love cats, particularly those whose resent their tendency to massacre the wildlife in our gardens. I'd like to improve the odds of survival for all the birds, amphibians and small mammals in my garden, but without causing physical harm to the cats. I've tried scent-based cat repellents without success, and I completely reject the idea of indiscriminate noise scarers. I can't police the garden 24/7, so my preferred solution is a water cannon capable of detecting a cat and soaking it. To keep things simple, I'd be thinking of using mains pressure to power the water jet, and batteries to power a motion sensor (infra-red). To be useful, the design would need to: - hit targets within a user-specified arc and at varying distances - allow the user to configure the sensitivity of the sensor, so that cat-sized heat sources are treated as targets, but smaller mammals are non-targets - avoid being triggered by foliage disturbed by the wind. For extra credit, the design could: - use solar power instead of batteries - focus the jet at the target, rather than spraying mist over a large area
Posted by pspinks 8 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
Got a pet tarantula? Better protect your eyes ----------------------- WASHINGTON Fri Jan 1, 2010 10:53am EST WASHINGTON (Reuters) - Here's some advice stemming from the unusual case of a man who had spider hairs stuck in his cornea: Be sure to cover your eyes when hanging around with your pet tarantula. Ophthalmologists at St. James's University Hospital in Leeds, England, used high magnification lenses to find out what made the man's eye red, watery and light-sensitive, according to a study reported in the British medical journal The Lancet on Thursday. They discovered hair-like projections stuck in the man's cornea. It was a light bulb moment for the patient, who remembered that three weeks earlier he had been cleaning a stubborn stain on the glass tank of his pet, a Chilean Rose tarantula. "He sensed movement in the terrarium. He turned his head and found that the tarantula, which was in close proximity, had released 'a mist of hairs' which hit his eyes and face," the doctors wrote. They said the man's condition was rare. The authors noted that the Chilean Rose tarantula releases the barbed hair on the back of its body to defend against predators. "We suggest that tarantula keepers be advised to routinely wear eye protection when handling these animals," the doctors said. ----------------------- Ok, so he might not have been blinded, but in theory, he could have developed a horrible infection that could have blinded him. I'm listing tarantulas next to porcupines as pets to not own. Image Credit: David Thorne
Posted by AngryRedhead 8 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
I suddenly got this idea to post a topic in which soda is the best. If this topic has already been posted, please notify me so that I can remove it. Votes will be closed at October 15. The winning soda will be announced after I count all the votes (either the 15th or 16th), and whoever voted for the winning soda gets the good feeling of being better than everyone else. Capiche? (8.12.08) EDIT: Wow. I never thought this would become so popular in about... 5 days. Thanks for voting, everyone! RULES: 1. You may vote for up to three DIFFERENT sodas, once each time. 2. You may not vote more than once. 3. You may not start a conversation with someone on this forum that has absolutely nothing to do with the topic. 4. There is no #4. 5. Your choices are: Anything you like that's a soda. Remember to keep your votes to up to 3 different sodas. Nothing alcoholic, please. EDIT (8.13.08, somewhere around 12 PM Central Time) The results so far. In first: Coke with 5 votes. In second: Jones with 4 votes. And the sodas tied for third: Root Beer, Cream Soda, and Dr. Pepper, each with 3 votes. Sodas with 2 votes: Mountain Dew, Diet Coke. Pepsi, and Canada Dry. Sodas with 1 vote: SURGE!!!!!!, Virgin Cuba Libre, Sprite, Sprite Remix (-_-;;), Vanilla Coke, Sunkist, Cherry Coke, Fresca, Limca, and 7-Up. Thanks again for voting, everyone!
Posted by RokuXIII 10 years ago | last reply 5 years ago
We're not talking about hybrids here; our topic is cars powered by the basic IC-engine that relies on gasoline and not electric motors. Today's gasoline engines are not designed to combust/burn gasoline efficiently. Even with the advent of using high pressure fuel injection techniques that are computer controlled, we still fall short of the mark. Partly because liquid gasoline can't burn, only gasoline vapors burn, and there lies our problem. The same goes for injecting the high pressure droplets of fine-mist liquid gasoline that enters the engine cylinder using our current nozzle ejector technology, it doesn't all burn at the same time! Engine designers assume that these droplets are instantly vaporized by the engine's hot cylinder walls, and then instantly explode/combust when ignited by the sparkplug. Not true, up to 2/3 of the fuel isn't vaporized and doesn't combust until later on in the cycle. The 1/3 that gets almost-instantly vaporized and burns will do so within the several thousandths of a second (Fig-1) it has before the piston moves down its 1/2-stroke (out of today's 4-stroke cycle) completing the engine power-portion of its cycle. This releases power and tremendous heat which indeed vaporizes the remaining ~2/3 of our fuel from its liquid droplet form, but too late. It essentially does so when the power stroke is almost over or the piston is just about ready to move into its up-stroke (2nd stroke of our four stroke cycle) phase. So, because of poor vapo-timing we have 2/3 of our fuel virtually wasted by exploding at near the bottom of the power stroke. This incorrect explosive timing, which happens to most of our fuel, imparts very little energy into the crankshaft because its effective "moment" (a product of explosive force and radial-component distance from crankshaft center) is insignificant by then. Various attempts at adjusting the combustion timing spark hasn't made a significant difference. Even though ~2/3 of the fuel is now exploding and providing a huge force, its small "influence" arm distance is rapidly diminishing to zero, and any huge downward force times near zero arm-length is still zero. Some clarification here, technically thermal-efficiency is not improved, pretty much all of the gasoline gets combusted today. That means the energy of the fuel is almost totally released, but not effectively used. The problem is the timing it takes to convert fuel-injected gasoline droplets into vapor to combust at the correct engine rotational time and extract that expended energy. If you did the math for any size engine rotating at say 3200 RPM, you would find that a 4-stroke engine can only extract that energy from combustion during one of the four strokes. And the time it takes to make that stroke happen is only about 9.4 thousandths of a second or 9.4 milisecs (msecs). Now picture the piston just below TDC, all its valves closed, under pressure and containing all the fuel and air it needs to combust. At this point our deadly cocktail has about half of the 9.4 or about 5 msecs to complete combust after the timed sparkplug ignites it. The half factor exists because the max portion of our power stroke (moment arm) occurs at the mid-stroke of the piston sliding down and turning the crankshaft. If all of our fuel isn't combusted by then, the moment-arm or distance from the piston-center to the crankshaft quickly reduces to zero. Again, only vapors combust within a healthy 2 msecs (Fig-1), while fuel droplets take a relatively long time (>5 msecs) to vaporize before it can combust. Unfortunately nature is stubborn and vaporizes ~2/3 of our injected fuel droplets only during roughly the second half of the power stroke. So this huge amount of energy gets wasted because even though the forces of combustion are huge, its moment arm is rapidly approaching zero. Infinity times zero is still zero! Engine designers/engineers have been plagued by this phenomenon ever since the creation of the 4-stroke gasoline or Otto cycle engine. We need to improve this intermittent combustion/explosion process by combusting all of our injected fuel at the correct timing sequence. This is accomplished by injecting only vaporous fuel which will produce ~3X the power we now get. Another way to state this is, for the same power that we now get from a gasoline engine, if we burned the fuel correctly, we would only need 1/3 the fuel consumption to get 3X the current MPG.
Posted by RT-101 6 years ago | last reply 5 years ago
(I am planning on doing a forum post for each day of my trip in Japan. The first few days will just be copy pasted from my blog (but now with pictures, and image notes!), and after that I will type up the entry I kept for each day in my journal)I am writing this all on my eee pc, and, while I am getting the hang of this tiny keyboard, typing mistakes are common. I am also in various states of mental functioning so excuse any grammatical errors.I woke up at around 6:45 on Thursday morning. I had been feeling a bit under the weather, and was slightly congested. I really hoped that I did not catch something right before my trip. I woke up the other interns (Bilal, Josh, and Paul), because I knew they would be very sad and might cry, if I did not give them the last chance to say goodbye to me. We did a 4 way shoulder-tap, the universe imploded, and I was off.As I walked down Clementina I realized that it would be the last time I smelled that poo stench on the street. I had mixed feelings about this.The BART ride to SFO was very uneventful. Check in was amazingly fast. The line was short and moved quickly. I had almost everything I was taking with me in my carry-on. There was nothing in my checked baggage but knives and lint (one knife & one swiss tech mulikey). Anyway the whole process of checking in took about 15 minutes. The security checkpoint was even faster. There was no line, and for the first time in a long time I didn't set off the metal detector. I had shown up three hours before my flight to be safe, and I was now left with two hours and forty minutes to kill.I went to the currency exchange and turned 300$ into 27,000 yen. The Lonely Planet guidebook I have (which was printed just last year), has the exchange rate of one USD to 120 Yen, at the exchange booth they offered about 98 Yen for a dollar, google says the current rates are 107 yen to a dollar. Stupid weak American money. Anyway, I used ten dollars which I did not convert to yen to buy an english muffin breakfast sandwich and a gatorade. I went to my terminal, and accidentally dropped the barely touched sandwich on the floor while removing my backpack. I was hungry :(I read for two hours then boarded the plane at around 11. There were many people coughing on this eleven hour flight, so I did not have high hopes for avoiding sickness. Read some more on the flight, watched iron man in Japanese, watched iron man in english, and watched be kind rewind. They served two decent meals, and a few snacks in between. Ten hours later when we were finally over Japan, I went to the back of the plane, and stared out the window in the emergency exit door to get my first view of Japan.We landed around 2 pm on Friday. It was hot, so very hot (humid too). I filled out my customs form, got fingerprinted, and photographed, and made my way over to the baggage claim to pick up my knives. I made my way out of the airport to the train, and bought a ticket for what I hoped was a kanayama station bound train. Turns out it was. (cue the "ding" sound that is played on the audio tracks for slideshows, when it is time to change the slide). The first few pictures are of Kanayama station. There was a cool little inflatable pool, with little kids in miniature paddle boats. They also had a bunch of those water mist sprayers that people stand in front of to cool off.I relaxed at the train station for a bit before I caught the number 12 bus. I took it to the Ishikawa Bashi stop, and got off. I used a pay phone to call up Changmi who I had found on couchsurfing.com. I actually set up the couchsurf with her husband (who was out of town) who said it would be ok for me to stay, so I think she was a little surprised when I called. She said that she was currently hosting two couples who each had a small child. It was cool if I stayed, but it would be crowded. She picked me up at the nearest intersection with her mother, one of the couples, and their child in the car.We drove to downtown Nagoya and they let us out. Changmi and her mother were going somewhere, so I hung out with Sarah, Seba, and their daughter Maya. They were couchsurfers from France who had been in Japan for a couple of weeks. We walked around central park in downtown Nagoya for a bit. There is the large TV tower at one end of the park, and a bunch of art pieces scattered about randomly (metal taco boat thing). We went and got dinner, which I later found out to be pig intestines, with an egg, over rice. It was pretty good.After eating we took the subway back to Changmi's house and slept.Japan Day 2
Posted by Tetranitrate 10 years ago | last reply 10 years ago
Hi! I decided I would post every chapter I do instead of just the first so here's the second chapter! Enjoy! Chapter 2 The traveller After eating some delicious noodles we decided to go to my house. I expected my mother would shout at me because I hadn’t made my bed, but when I got home there was a very different response. My mother looked very frightened. Suddenly my father walked in. He too was a samurai. He was dressed in samurai’s armour and had a katana and a wakizashi (Samurai sword and dagger) which were placed in their sheaths. He only wore the armour in an emergency and in times of war and the expression on his face told me that there was bad news. “Pack your bags, Ryu,” he said. “It’s time for you to go to the dojo.” “What?” I asked in disbelief. “Go and pack your bags,” he repeated. “Hiroshi, you must also get ready. Go home to your father who is waiting for you.” “Yes, sir,” he replied. Hiroshi never questioned my father’s decisions. “Father?” I started. “Do not question me, Ryu. Now go and get ready.” Hiroshi ran out the door and I went to my room and opened my cupboard. Inside were all my kimonos and my bokken (wooden sword). I grabbed my favourite ones and came back to where my father was waiting. I didn’t have time to say goodbye to any of my friends. We walked outside where my father’s horse stood ready. “Hello, Diamond,” I said. He whinnied when he saw me and put his head under my arms so that I could pat him. I scratched his ears while my father prepared the saddle. We named him Diamond because of the diamond shaped mark on his forehead. The white stallion was very rare and my father was lucky to have found him. I still remember the first time we met Diamond. My father and I were travelling on a large dirt road when it started to rain. The road quickly turned to mud so we took shelter under some trees. Hearing a sad whinny, I looked around and found a white stallion lying in the mud. I turned my father’s gaze to the horse and we walked over to it. It was only half awake and had a huge cut in its side. We brought it back to our stables and healed its wounds. It became fond of us so we decided to keep him. He was easily the fastest horse in the city. Back to the present, we set out on the road to the dojo. As we left the city I could see almost everything from the palace down to the pier. The gardens at the top of the hill were full of flowers and shrubs. It was bordered on two sides by a thick hedge. The pagoda was in the middle for people to visit. I realized that I had never actually visited the garden. There were many things I hadn’t visited in the last fourteen years. I would miss the beach with its crystal clear waters and sandy shores. I’d miss the constant movement of the waves. I’d miss my mother and younger sister. I’d especially miss all the friends I had. Leaving Hiroshi would hurt dearly. As we travelled I helped Diamond’s tail to flick away the flies. Diamond galloped so swiftly that it was comfortable riding him. The white stallion sped past villages and mountains until we arrived at a forest. The entrance to the forest was shrouded in mist and there was complete silence. Entering cautiously we heard a weak yelp. My father stopped and stared in the direction of the sound. I dismounted and walked toward the faint voice. My father told me to take my bokken. He always thought that curiosity was a great teacher. I got closer and heard a twitch. Behind a small bush a girl was lying unconscious. She looked about my age- fourteen or fifteen, maybe? She had a deep cut in here wrist that seemed to be from sometime of weapon. She had a large bump on her head which must have left her unconscious. The thing that really surprised me was her hair. It was the colour of gold. I called my father over to see. He stared at the girl and then picked her up. “The healers from the dojo will be able to heal her wounds,” he said. “Put her on your lap and make sure she does not fall of the horse.” I laid her on the horse and put my bokken between me and the saddle holding the girl in place. We continued our journey through the woods without another word. Halfway through the forest the girl started to wake up. She had crystal blue eyes that stared straight at me. “Danger,” she said before drifting back into unconsciousness. I had a bad feeling about this.
Posted by Tornado96 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
Today a friend of mine asked me if I know a way to reduce the noise level of his compressor in the work shed. With the current heat he prefers to work in the evening and nights, which does not make his neighbours too happy. His main use for several airbrush guns and sometimes for mormal airtools or the big spray gun for an undercoat or similar. So his main concern is oil in the airline and the actual flow rate is of second concern as he has an old 25kg propane cyclinder as an additional air tank. For relative low air volumes I would suggest an old fridge compressor. With a thicker pipe at the outlet that is filled with stainless steel wool most of the oil stays in the compressor. That is if this pipe is a) long enough b) upright c) of sufficient diameter so there is enough for the oil to avoid it being pushed up A second, standard oil seperator will be enough for the oil level required for airbrush stuff - and most other things too. If there is no pressure regulator on the airbrush system it is best to add a small air tank and shut off valve for it. In our case however a fridge compressor would be just enough to keep the bigger airbrush gun running but not to fill the tank at the same time. Not to mention the problem of fluctuating pressure levels. Since we already had a tank and pressure shut off connected to the loud compressor it was only a matter of finding something that keeps the neighbours happy. The first thing we did was to check how often the compressor comes on and how long it runs till the tank is back to pressure. With that and the stated air volume on the compressor we guesstimated that something a bit bigger than the compressor of a window airconditioner should be sufficient. The search begins.... If you don't know what to look for I give you a few hints: Older airconditioners often run on R22 or R12 - both use quite high system pressures which is a bonus, but more on that later. As a rule of thumb for these compressors you cans say: the bigger the higher the flow rate. At the local wreckers and scrap yards we found a few units but noticed the bigger ones often used three phases and not just one :( So we opted for the R22 compressor of a 4.5kW unit. Keep in mind the 4.5kW is for the entire system, so the quite massive fans can be removed from the sum. Usually the compressor alone is the 2.5 - 3kW range. Ok, we found the big thing but how does this help us? First things first ;) The oil was removed as the housing stating the original oil amount. This allowed us to use an oil rated for air use that has little to no water absorption qualities - you don't want water in your compressor. With the usual heat the water should be no problem anyway. Next was a pressure test to make sure the thing actually still works, so we added some plumping in the form of standard connectors to the inlet and outlet. We got well above 200PSI and abondoned the test at this stage as it was more than enough already. The air volume seemd to be well more than expected too so let'S move to the next stage. A fridge or aircon compressor always needs to have a certain amount of oil in it as it will otherwise seize and overheat quickly. But they are also designed so that the oil mixes with the refrigerant to cool all moving parts. So the biggest hurdle is to make sure the oil stays where it should stay and won't enter or get lost in the tank. Only real option for this to use something to catch the oil that is capable of releasing it into the compressor once it shuts off. Now there are several options for this so I start with the most basic: A "catch can" will get most of the oil, especially if filled with stainless steel wool or similar. Downside is that you have to find a way to get it back into the compressor. A step better is a thicker pipe filled with stainless steel wool to catch the oil. If placed upright and the outgoing pipe can be bend a bit upwards you have a good chance that most of the oil will sweep through the valves and get back down into the compressor housing. But only too often the cheap or even free compressor is better than expected and the oil won't get back into the housing as the vlaves are just too good. The last and IMHO best option is a pressurised return system. Most compressors for bigger aircons have a seperate filling port or sealed off piece of pipe. In this case you can do a simple check to see if they are usable for our purposes. Open the port of pipe and use a simple bike bump or similar to get some pressure in it. With a dedicated oil filling port you are best off but they are hard to find. The air you pump in should come out of the high pressure side - you might need a little pressure to overcome the valves. If you hear any bubbling in the housing (use a pipe on your ear or a sensitive microphone) it means you are going through the oil inside the compressor - perfect! You might not hear any bubbling but the port or pipe is still usable. Get ready with your fingers and start the compressor. The fill pipe should be sucking air in, same for the service port if there is one. A dedicated oil port should not suck but instead force some oil up if you cover the high pressure outlet. I assume all is good and no oil is splashing out of the open pipe or port. Add a small amount of oil with a syringe or similar into the port/pipe. If you see an oil mist coming out of the high side it is bad news. Clean outlet air is good. To get the oil back from the catch pipe or can we have to add a hose or pipe with a needle valve. It needs to be adjusted so that there is only a very little airflow (or oil mist) coming out. This regulated outlet is now being connect to the port/pipe with a bit of suction that we found earlier. Now every time the compressor runs the collected oil is forced back into the compressor :) Please double check the port/pipe used is not directly connected to the intake port! The last thing you want is a puddle of oil going into the cylinder and damaging it! They are designed to move gas but not liquid! If in doubt use a hardened sttel nail or similar to create a small puncture in the top of the compressor housing if there is nothing else to use. Check first if the material sound very thick, if so it might help to drill with a 5 or 6mm drill first - only about 1mm to make sure you won't enter the housing and conimate it with metal shavings! Once you have a small puncture hole of about 2mm in diameter get some 2 component metal repair glue mix and add a suitable connection for the collecting pipe/can. If you feel up to it you can of course use a blow torch and solder the connection on. Now we have the compressor working with a oil return system that also gives up very little to no oil at all in our system. You might now think you are good to go but you should at least add a decent and fine filter to the air inlet ;) The compressor noise of a bigger system can still be an issue if thicker pipes are used that allow the noise to travel out. Keep in mind they usually run in a fully closed system.... As we only need to match the noise level of the compressor itself a solid steel can like an old fire extinguisher in the 1kg rage is a good way out. Fill it with filter wool and a fine filter pad after adding some hose connectors either end. You can misuse the trigger nozzle and keep it to seal the top if you braze a connector on it. If the intake here is about 5 times larger than the pipe connection to the compressor itself the air flow going into the thing is low enough for a cheap paper air filter can or box if you have a quite dusty enviroment to work with. The real trick is to have a hose or pipe on the inside of the fire extinguisher connected to the compressor pipe connection. A garden hose is great here as is reduces the noise quite good and is dirt cheap. Make a lot of about 2mm sized holes in this pipe and close the other end of it off. Now the compressor will suck it through the small holes and the soft garden hose reduces the noise, the surrounding padding brings it down to basically nothing. The special case of clean air for airbrush.... If you read this for the sole purpose of airbrush use then this chapter is just for you, all other might want to skip it. The two things you don't want to enter your gun is oil or water. Both are a common thing in normal compressors due to lubrication and pressure difference resulting in condensation of the humidity in the intake air. Oil free compressors of good quality can cost quite a few bucks and often require ongoing replacement of membranes or piston seals. A refrigeration compressor with the above modifications already provides clean enough air for most airbrush users if a proper tank is used to store enough of the compressed air. So you might just want to add a basic oil filter or very fine paper filter close to the regulator. For very detailed work with very sensitive paints you might want to build a filter box containing of several layers of oil absorbent paper. This stuff is often used in the industry to clean up minor oil spills and bind oil very well. A PVC pipe (pressure rated please) with 5-8 layers of filter screens should last about a lifetime before the filters need changing if the diameter is in the 10-15cm range. That leaves us with the dreaded problem of condensation and water contamination. Depending on the type of paint and gun used a small amount of water vapour is usually no problem. Solvent based paints usally show their disliking by unwanted drops or run offs caused by water droplets. Of course you just go and buy a professional dehumidifier and accept the ongoing replacement costs for the cartridges... But if you are in a climated that has above 30% humidity for most of the year than you will have to remove the water one way or the other. A big enough storage tank for the air that is upright usually helps to release any condensated water prior to usage. But if you use a homemade tank you might want to avoid this problem completely and forget about water in the system altogehter. Silaca gel is the answer here, specifically the indicating variety that changes color once "full". A spaghetti glas or similar should be big enough unless you are in a very humid climate - is so just use multiple in a row. The air intake side for the compressor has to go through the silica gel to be effictive. This mean we need two holes in the lid. One with a pipe or hose going all the way to the botom - that is the air intake side. The other right on the lid - this is the air outlet side which continues to the compressor intake. With the color change in the silica gel we can estimate how much usage we have left until we have to heat it up to remove the water. If this color change happens quite fast from the bottom to the top, let's say within three days or less than you really need to use more jars with silica gel in a row or a longer one - like using a long and clear acrylic pipe instead. Of course you can always just cut holes and "viewing glasses" along the length to a PVC pipe.... No matter how wet your climate is you want to get at least 100 hours of compressor run time before you need to recharge the silica gel. This brings us to the recharging.... Once the color changes and you only have about one quarter left to the top you want to get the water out of the gel and re-use it. To do this you simply heat it up in your oven to around 120-150°C - the supplier should state the max temp for this. If you use a gas oven or one with limited accuracy here it is best to stay within the 120° range. You need to stir and mix the gel or use something big enough like an oven tray. But be aware that these little balls are like glass! The roll and bounce like no tomorrow! IMHO it best to use an old cooking pot that has no plastic handles for this and not to overfill it. This allows for easy mixing without making a mess that might cause a bad trpping hazard on your kitchen floor tiles! Once the gel is back to original colr it is time to let it cool of to a safe temperature and to fill it back into our canister or pipe. Tanks and shut off systems.... We have a refrigeration compressor working for us, and since it was for R22 we can use much higher pressures as a simple compressor from the hardware store. The low pressure side is used to 70PSI or around 5Bar of pressure in normal working conditions. The high side often works at pressure in the range of 200-300PSI or 14-20Bar! The tank we used is a big propane tank that was restamped at some stage in his life for the use of LPG - so it was tested to quite high pressures. The lower pressure limit is what keeps the stored gas liquid at the given temperature. For Propane at an imaginary 30°C this would around 155PSI or 10Bar. The stamped test pressure, although outdated, showed 600PSI or around 40Bar of pressure with no problems - and the thing was thick in the walls... The old shut off switch from an old air compressor was adjustable after removing the safety cap with a bit of force and the help of few cold beer. With a little tank attached we adjusted it to turn the compressor off at 250PSI or around 17Bar of pressure. If your tank is old or has no test pressure stamped on do your own test in a safe location. Make sure the area is secured so there is no chance of debris from a brusting tank can go anywhere - this includes to chain down the tank itself ;) Use the aircon compressor to fill it up to 300PSI or 20Bar of pressure - this should be tolerated with ease by any propane or LPG tank. Shut the valves and let it rest for a day or so. It is best to do this in the early morning so the heat from the day will slightly increase the pressure. At the end you still want to have a working tank and no major pressure losses. All of our mods on this tank were done without actually harming the tank. This was possible as the original valve had a release port for filling purposes - as it standard on most refillable ones. Here we removed the valve and added a pressure guage instead - better to know what is happening than to assume things. As this "port" had a seperate connection to the bottom of the brass valve we added as T-connection to allow for the connection to the compressor. Just be be really sure a thin piece of copper tubing was brazed to the exit hole of this port so all incoming air will be going down and away from the outlet connection with the big shut off valve on top - which we use to actually isolate and close the tank when not it use. Last thing required was something to connect the pressure shut off switch and regulator to. That was the only major expense on this project as we had no old BBQ hose or similar to get a suitable connector to the tank. We bought a simple adapter for the use of smaller hoses and cut the unwanted bits off we there was only the bottle conntector with the nut left. After removing the rubber ring we brazed piece of copper pipe onto it. Here we drilled holes and fitted severy connectors. First for the pressure switch, then for the connection to the pressure regulator and two standard ones with a ball valve for air hose connections. One air hose connection female, the other male so a standard compressor can be connected as well or "backfilled" for additional and mobile storage use. As we wanted to avoid any reduction in the safety and burst pressure no release valve was added at the bottom on the tank. The added silica gel filter stage was used instead so no water will get into the system to begin with. Additionally, and painfully for me and me friend, the inside of the tank was coated with a layer of acrylic paint to prevent and rust as it was free from it when we checked it at the beginning. This involved filling a suitable amount of paint into it, closing the top while keeping the thread clean and then to move the tank around to cover the inside evenly. If you do this be prepared for some weird movements with your friends LOL Once we were sure all ust be covered by paint at least three times we released the exxess paint and allowed the inside to dry with the assistance of some air forced to go in with a length of pipe. This was repeated 3 times... Then another two just for the bottom third of it where there might be some moisture after all... Now you don't want to remove the brass valve with everything connected to it just to turn the tank over to releae the collected water. Instead we made sure the added pipe on the former relese port would go all the way to the bottom of the tank. If any water collection is suspected only the connection to the compressor needs an additional valve for the disconnection so the water will be force back out here. To make this easy and fast we used standard quick connectors and a piece of flexible airhose rated to 20bar of pressure for the connection to the compressor. We checked the performance of the moisture removal and oil removal only for a few hours of running time while priming some surface for later use. The compressor oil used was very smelly to say it nice but nothing coul be smelled in the first paper filter after the pressure regulator. To check for remaining moisture levels (65% humidity in the house) we used a 10m length of clear PVC tubing going through an ice bath. After 30 minutes of moderate air release there was no condensation on the inside of the tubing visible. Of course if you only need it for air supply and don't care about a bit of moisture and oil you can keep it simple ;) Benefits of doing such a stupid thing: For starters noise and the peace of mind that you can do a lot of airbrushing until the compressor needs to kick in again. Then of course the benefit of an almost silent system compared to a standard compressor - something you can actually tolerate while doing art. But the real deal is knowing YOU did it and you did it for cheap. Warnings and some advise... I know, it should be at the very beginning but I just hope you read till the end ;) If the compressor fails from overheating you are up for a new one. This means the tan size should be within the limits of what the compressor can handle - same for what you actually use on air. You want an empty tank to be filled before the compressor feels hot to touch - quite warm is fine but if you can't leave your hand on it then it is too hot. Same story for the usage. There is no point in using a tiny 10 liter storage tank if you need that capacity every few minutes. The compressor would only have little pauses and overheat quickly. You want a good balance of usage time before the tank goes below supply pressure and running time of the compressor to get it to full pressure again. This brings us to the safety of high pressures. Where possible only copper tubing or sufficiently rate hoses should be used, the later as short as possible to avoid them acting like a whip if something goes wrong. When it comes to the safety of the tank you want to make sure to stay withing it's rated limits. All benefits of a compressor capable of producing over 500PSI otr close to 35Bar is wasted if your tank and pressure regulator can't handle it. This must not mean that you try to use a gas cylinder of unknow age and pressure rating and assume it will work! If in doubt use a lower shut off pressure and stay within the limits of normal air compressors - which is around 120PSI or 8Bar. Never, ever use a tank that is compromised by inside rust or bad corrosion on the outside! If you don't know how to braze copper tubing, pipes and connectors then check out some of the great Instructables about it! Whenever you know you won't use any compressed air for more than a few hours close all valves especially the ones going back to the compressor on the high pressure side! Some compressors really don't like a huge pressure difference constantly pushing on the reed valves. If your tank is big enough to allow for more than one hour of operation before the compressor has to top it up you might want to consider a one way valve right on the compressor outlet. This will prevent any massive pressures going onto the valves - especially helpful for modern compressors that only rely on the sealing capabilities of the clyinders or rotary system used. One thing you should always consider is a pressure relief valve rated for about 50PSI more than your tank pressure - it can be added to the pipe ;) If the shut off valve ever fails the relief valve gives you the ease of mind that it will blow before your tank does. Maintenance... If modded correctly the compressor should stay in the compressor and the compressor itself should not overheat from use. Having said that your compressor might force out a little more than your best catch system can handle. If that becomes a problem it might help to use an oil with a lower viscosity. If all fails it just means you need to top up oil once the last last paper filter is filthy or use slightly more to begin with so the intervals are longer. The silica gel, if used should be recharged before all of it is wasted - no point in adding it if you use it once full of water. If no gel is used there will be water in the storage tank. Even with the added paint and a good air filter it is possible that nasty things grow in there. Making sure the tank is emptied of any water after long uses and again before the next use is good practise. If no pressure gauge is used on the tank you must make sure the shut off valve is always working fine and within set parameters. I strongly recommend using a gauge and if not to perform a pressure check of the system every now and then to confirm all is within parameters of normal operation. A compressor constantly running means you either use far too much air or you have a leak - same story if the compressos kicks in after some of forgetting to shut it off and close the valves. If you keep the above in mind the salvaged compressor should work just fine for many years to come. Troubleshooting and alternatives.... You put everything together the right way, double checked and something is till not right? Maybe my crystal ball helps me to find something... 1. Always oil coming through the catch system. It usually means you use too much of it. A salvaged compressor, if the refrigent was removed legally from the system should still have a "correct" level of oil inside. Too much oil would mean is being pumped through the system at an excessive rate. Very thin compressor oils tend to do that in the compressor is misude like we do. Changing to standard mineral oil can help here. As a last resort you can use a pressure gauge or good judgement to allow more flow through the needle valve from the catch system back to the compressor. Too much backflow here would mean we loose system pressure to the set level of this needle valve! 2. The R22 rated compressor seems to be unable to produce enough pressure. First do a leak test using soapy water to rule out any leaks. Do a back pressure test on the ports. If you can push air through them in the reverse way with ease it means the valves are damaged making the compressor useless. You need to replace it. A regular cause with our type of usage is a constand back pressure from the storage tank to the compressor. To prevent this it might help to mount an electric solenoid between the compressor and storage tank. Such valve should be off when the pressure switch is engaged and on when the pressure switch is disengaged. This prevents the coil from overheating but requires a "normally off" type of valve. A good source at the wreckers are cars with LPG systems installed, they usually have suitable 12V valves somewhere on or near the tank and filler cap. 3. I am using several kg of silica gel but still get a lot of water in my storage tank. Going overboard in a humid climate can be a good thing here but if moisture makes it into the tank even with great amounts of silica gel there are only two causes: a) the tube or cylinder used is not long enough or not wide enough to allow the absorption of all the moisture going through. b) the flow rate is too high and the temperatures are too. For the first the solution is obvious enough. The second is related to the first for the diameter and lenght but temperatures constantly above the 30°C while operating somehow limits what the gel can do. Using a cooling coil on the intake side or simply putting the gel containers in icy water will help to a great deal here. If that is not an option than I suggest to layer the gel and to seperate it with fine paper filter screens. This will slow and even out the airflow allowing for more contact time with the gel. 4. The compressor gets very noisy after some time. If "some time" means more than 30-45 minutes you simply have it running too much and it overheats. If the noise increases too much when reaching the shut off pressure it can mean the pressure is too high for it. 5. Can I use multiple compressors from smaller units or refrigerators to get enough air volume? Of course you can but it might mean you have to lower your pressure expectations. Consider that each individual compressor would get the back pressure from all other compressors running while it's outlet valve is closed. To avoid premature failure you want to make sure the compressors are shut off at a lowver pressure. 6. I don't want to use a big tank but require a good airflow for airbrush. Two or three fridge compressors working one after the other with a small tank to keep the output pressure even can allow for about 30 minutes runtime per compressor. With three it gives one hour for the the first to cool off and should be enough for ongoing work. Downside is you need to make some sort of automatic switch to "rotate" to compressor working. Last words.... Is you find any spelling mistakes you can keep them. However, if you use them in any way to make a profit with them I kindly ask for 10% of your earning from it ;) Why did I not make an Instructable out of all this? Well the day was very hot, the beer very cold and my mobile phone at home, so I did not take any pics. To top it up the whole thing is now in a seperate box for additional noise reduction so it can be used in the same room where the guy is working. Of course he just used a nailgun for the job without any regard of access or at least easy view of the two pressure gauges. Typical if you have a great idea and the cold beer tells you to forget all about screws or hinges ROFL Only comment was: You created it and it works fine, why would need more than the pipe connections for the gel and regulator? Maybe he will reconsider when the service is due....
Posted by Downunder35m 1 year ago | last reply 1 year ago
Although the topic is quite old for some of us and mostly because I am too lazy today to make an Instructable: Hydrogen Peroxide ! Back in the day Hydrogen Peroxide was mainly known for the ability to bleech your hair, later it replaced chlorine based products for the preparation of paper and organic fibres. For me it is a good opportunity to go back in time and to pull out some of the remedies my grandparents already used. Who knows, there might be something that helps you or you might know other good uses that I failed to mention here, so feel free to comment. First off: What actually is hydrogen peroxide? We could check Wikipedia but I think it is enough to say that it basically water with an added oxgen mulecule which turn the stuff into a quite powerfull oxidizer. When hydrogen peroxide reacts the added oxygen is released and the normal water remains. Precausions and health risks. In the normal supermarket form hydrogen peroxide comes at a strenght of just 3%. This is just enough for wound treatment or cleaning off a fresh and small stain. The stuff you can buy at your hair dresser comes in concentrations of 5-15%, above that it is of little use to them. Pool grade peroxide however can come as high as 50%. It often requires a permit of at least leaving a copy of your drivers license to buy such high concentration but well worth it price wise. The downside of anything above 5% is a risk for your skin, eyes and airways. So when handling hydrogen peroxide you should waer long sleeve rubber gloves, safety or better swimming goggles and make sure that you don't create vapour by spraying it against the wind direction. Having water at hand to dilute and spillage on your skin is always good. What happens to me if things go wrong? Well, if handled correctly nothing should go wrong but of cause the worst would be eye contact. Getting concentrated hydrogen peroxide in your eyes means extreme pain and even with rinsing it out asap eye damage is more than just possible. Again: wear proper eye protection and if spraying use a filter mask, the paper type is enough!!! Nothing immediate happens on sking contact but a few minutes after contact the skin will turn slightly brown or goes white. This is caused by the oxygen release into your skin cells, if washed off quickly after noticing the discoloration will fade after a few hours. Prolonged exposure of the skin can cause skin cells to fully discolor and living cells might get damaged - a burning sensation is usually the sign that you need to wash the area now ;) Enough bad stuff said, let's see what we can do in the garden.... Fungal infection of your old roses or on your fruit trees? Sometimes the weather does not like our plants and by the time we discover a fungal infestation it is usually pruning time. There are commercial producta available that work quite well but especially the copper based ones tend to do more harm than good in th long run. An alternative is a solution of 10-20% hydrogen peroxide. Spray generously over all affected parts of the plant, leaves, twigs, stem and all. Make sure everything is properly wet! In some cases the fungus can act as a water replellent and it seems impossible to get any of the solution to wet these areas - a drop of dish washing liquid into the bottle will fix this! Watever runs off can be left as it only helps to get oxygen into the soil but of course you should not soak the area... Leave it on for about an hour, around 20 minutes if it quite warm. Rinse all off with clear water and repeat every 2 days for 5 treatments all up. After this time wait 2 or 3 weeks and check if the fungus still gows in some hard to reach areas. If so then repeat the treatment there until satisfied but wait another 2 weeks every 5 single treatments. In some areas of the world certain types of fungus on roses are refered to as "rust". ----- Moved into a new home and the garden beds smell really bad? The last house I moved into had a previous occupant with a big dog but no time to clean after his pet. The garden beds looked dead and I mean so dead that I could not even find weeds in them. And the smell was a distinct mix of old dog poo with lots of fresh cat poo mixed in it - the perfect outdoor pet toilet :( Trying to dig it all under made me recover that the top soil was more §$&*# than soil. I had to get rid of the bacteria of all the poo and somehow neutralize a lot of the unwanted "nutrients". The solution was to first loosen all the soil as deep as I could go. Then I added rice straw (but anything straw like or dry grass will do) to mix it through. At this stage I wished I had a gas mask LOL All up the contaminated garden beds covered about 20square meters. I got a 10 liter canister of pool grade hydrogen peroxide, from this I diluted down with 20 liters of water and a few drops of dishwashing liquid to help with the soil wetting. All was applied as evenly as I good with a watering can and then the area was covered with some tarp to try keeping as much oxygen on and in the soil as possible. A day later the tarp was removed and all beds watered with hose to drowning point. This watering was repeated every 3 days for 3 weeks to drive out all the excess and unwanted nutrients from the poo. The smell was already gone except for some cat urine residue which disappeared after some rounds of watering. Three months after the initial treatment I did some soil tests, added nutrients were required and the next season I had vegetables growing :) ----- Planting? Whether from seeds or seedlings, give hydrogen peroxide a try! I use a 5% solution to soak the potting mix I use before putting my seeds in it. Not only does it kill a few of the unwanted things that might still be in there but it adds a lot of oxygen into the soil, which gives the seeds a much better start. For seeds I use a 5% solution as well but only leave them in for about an hour before placing them between some wet paper towels until they start germinating. This way I can be sure all harmful bacteria and fungal spores are dead and I can use a sterile seed to keep going. Might just be my opinion but I think the germination rate is better and seedling in comparison start growing faster and stronger. Home uses.... As we learned before hydrogen peroxide, at least in higher concentrations is a powerful way to remove fungus. In our bathrooms we often have the problem that the ceiling starts to develop black spots as in the colder times water condenses here and takes a long time to dry off. If you now go to your favorite hardware store they will recommend the use of a chlorine based product, basically bleach... And although it does the job it also means your house will stink for days and if you scrub the ceiling you will get it on your sking and stink too. Hydrogen peroxide at 20% or higher concentrations can be sprayed onto the cleiling :) Of course you will need good protection for this and all things color should be removed, like towels or floor mats. By protection I mean a minimum of swimming goggles, a tyvek suit or similar to cover all exposed skin areas and at least a paper dust mask, better a filtered respirator like you use for spray painting or using insecticides. If you have a spray bottle with an adjustable nozzle then a stream is far better than a spray mist!! Not only is your exposure far lower but it much easier to wet the ceiling quickly. Wet all affected areas, then leave and the room, close the door and take off all clothes you used t protect you. The clothes can be left out to dry but double check that you had no soaked spot where your sking might have been in contact - if so rinse the skin with plenty of water! It will take some time to work and then dry, so best to do this in the summer time or if during the colder times you need to make sure the room is porperly heated and aired out to dry! Repeat until all black spots are gone, really bad areas will leave a permanent discoloration looking like a slight brwonish color is the ligh it right otherwise you won't see it. Once fully dry it is best to scrape off all lose paint and then to use a acrylic based sealer before giving the ceiling a fresh coat of white. The sealer will prevent the water to penetrate more than the paint level and if you get the fungus back on the paint it is far easier to clean ;) ----- Carpet cleaning.... When moving into a new rental with carpet on the floor you often are left with areas indicating the carpet might be "clean" but the underlay certainly is not. You can fix the underlay but you certainly can make sure all harmful stuff is gone from the carpet. Carpet cleaning machines can be hired but often much cheaper if you buy the "recommended" cleaning product with it. Rent is usually based on a daily base and price depends on how much cleaner you need. If you only want to desinfect the carpet which otherwise looks mostly fine than go for the smallest pack available and use it to spot clean areas you want cleaner first. For the desinfecting part I recommend to test how high you can go with the concentration of the hydrogen peroxide before using it on a big scale - keep in mind the carpet will never be fully dry and the remaining peroxide will continue to act! Test a 10% solution first before you go higher as you don't want to buy 30 liters or more of pool grade peroxide - just trust me on that one and only try to buy this much you do want to get into trouble a few days later! If 10 percent solution left on the carpet does not cause any bleaching of the fabric (unwanted bleaching that is) you can try higher for spot cleaning in demanding areas. A good spot to try the solution is under the cover or duct outlets, under these joining bars where carpet changes to tiles (if you can lift them off) or in wardrobes if the carpet goes inside. There are two way to treat your carpet once the general cleaning is done. a) use a garden sprayer or similar to wet the carpet This is good for single room treatment like for the baby room but especially on thicker carpets it requires a lot of solution and can become costly. Once wet leave for at least 30 minutes so the peroxide can do its thing, then use the machine with either the solution filled or just to dry off the carpet. I recommend to use the peroxide solution in the machine as it allows for better penetration and it will remove more soiled solution this way. If your catching container starts bubbling like mad it means you have a lot of §$%&#+ in the carpet and it might be best to first clean it all with the normal carpet cleaning agent before using the peroxide again - again tesing on smaller areas can help wasting the peroxide. If you need to store prepared solutions than it is best in a cold place. It will take several hours on an otherwise clean carpet for the peroxide to fully disappear so it best to use shoes and prevent skin contact during that time - especially if a baby crawls around ;) ----- Toilet.... We don't want to talk about it but everyone needs to clean their toilet sooner or later. For most things in there using the toilet brush when it happens will keep things clean and healthy. But what if someone in the house is sick or with a weak immune system? You could use all sorts of commercial cleaners and desinfectants but a wipe with wet towel or cloth soaked in a 10% solution of hydrogen peroxide will quickly eliminate all harmfull things on your seat, lid or bowl, including the buttons to press and the door handles ;) Just wipe and leave it wet for a minute or two then wipe again and ry - done! Personal use I always pack a small bottle of supermarket grade peroxide when going off road or camping trips. Although we now have modern desinfectants that won't stink or otherwise harm you I still prefer the old stuff ;) If you are far from civilisation than the last thing you want to need is medical attention for something that started as small as a scratch or graze.... Out in the unkown wilderness you will never know if the rockk you just crash landed on was used as a urinal by a fox the night before... A bit of gravel left in your skin might contain harmful bacteria... A cut with your own knife?? - What did you all cut since the last proper cleaning of the blade? You see where I am going here, a small thing might turn into something really nasty a day or two later. If you clean a freash and minor wound properly and then rinsie it with hydrogen perodixe most if not all harmful leftovers will be killed by the releasing oxygen. Of course this pretty much useless on bleeding wounds or where it is obvious that you won't be able to remove all debris from the wound - here it means you trip is still over in favour for proper medical treatment. The thing is that hydrogen peroxide was basically abandoned for all wound treatment once the modern "cleaning aids" became available as the peroxide will not only attack harmful things but also living tissue. The claims goes as far as causing bad scar tissue, damage to blood vessels and even "burning" of the tissue. One big problem I have with all these claims is that they were never really mentioned until the new meds came out. IMHO exposure time and how you use it it the key - common sense if you ask me. Noone should ever soak a wound in peroxide, if it is that big that you need to soak it you need medical attention anyway. And as said you should rinse the wound, that means all remaining liquid should be allowed to flow off - this will only leave a minor amount of peroxide in the wound and the exposure time will end with once all oxygen is released. For minor wounds I only use a paper tissue or cotton bud soaked in peroxide and wipe the wound.... ----- Smelly feet? Ok, maybe not the best way to start a conversation but we all know what sneakers do to our feet in the summer... Insoles with copper and activated carbon will help a lot and at least "cure" your sneakers while they are off your feet and have time to dry. But the smell is actually cause by bacteria growing from everywherey in your sneaker to your sking, actuall starting at your sking... If you wear your sneakers for long periods of time time or even whenever possible and also suffer from a bad smell hydrogen peroxide might be able to help you. Most sneakers will tolerate a machine wash and should come out germ free, if that is no option pack them in a sealed back and leaven them in the freezer over night - this will kill all bacteria and remove the smell. Now to break the endless cycle you need to remove the bacteria from inside your skin. So daily sock changes, freezing shoes and washing feet is a must! Your feet will really benefit from a foot bath in a 5% solution of hydrogen peroxide. To keep costs at a minimum use a container that is just the right size for your feet and prepare the solution from pool grade peroxide. I an ideal case you should not need more than 2 liters but all used product can be stored cool and re-used the next day, after that you need to make a new batch. Keep your feet submerged for at least 10 minutes. This will allow a deep penetration of the skin but might result in some white spots that will disappear after a few hours. Consenquent foot baths can be reduced to 5 minutes. After about a week you should notice that wearing your sneakes no longer causes and bad smell and you can stop the treatment. Freezing the sneakers over night, dialy (or more) sock changes and daily, proper cleaning of your feet should prevent any further bad smells :) ----- Bleaching your hair Althoug it was done for many years I really can't recommend using hydron peroxide for this purpose! Any concentration strong enough to have a proper effect in a reasonable time will at least cuase skin irritation. Back in the days they said your burning scalp is what you need to endure to get blonde hair :( And as said already you really don't want to get that stuff into your eyes... General uses If you have a fruit based stain then cahnces are hydrogen peroxide will remove it, especially if fresh. Even at supermarket concentration repeated application and proper drying off with a paper towel or similar will remove even red wine or beetroot stains. ------ Blood... On you skin blood is easy removed with cold water, same on other surfaces but washing off is no option a wet cloth or cotton piece will work fine. Hydrogen peroxide is good if things need to go fst or if the surface is porous, here the releasing oxigen will drive out the blood with the bubbles. ----- Fish tanks... If you love your tank then you really hate to medicate or even worse have a bad algea infestion, especially the stuff of the black kind. A change to activated carbon filter material is always recommended after a medical treatment to remove all leftovers from the system. However, certain medication simply won't be affected by a carbon filter and stay in the system until fully used or broken down otherwise. Especially in bigger tanks a partial water change is often out of the question as it would cause too much additional stress to the fish and plants. Hydrogen peroxide can help to break down most if not all remains of the used medication while at the same time adding more oxygen to the water. To be sensitive and safe in all enviroments I recomment to calculate the concentration based on the volume of your tank and to add the required amount of peroxide very slowly into the outgoing water stream from your pump. By slowly I mean in terms of a slow drip if using solutions over 10% to be added to the tank. If in doubt remove a suitable amount of tank water into a bucket and add the concentrated peroxide to reach the final tank limit. I strongly recommend to stay below 2% in favour over additional treatments a few days later if required. That means the diluted solution you add should be entered into the tank slowly if in doubt add a glass full every few minutes. For the treatment of the dreaded black algea you do the same 2% solution but be prepared that it will take several treatment until you see them die off. If you can then it is best relocate the fish for a few days so you can use a stronger solution of 5-8% just with the plants left in the tank. When transporting fish in a bag it can pay off to add a little bit of 3% peroxide to the bag to give additional oxygen for transport. I do this maually for every fish I buy from a store so I can be sure all fungus and bacteris is killed of before I introduce it to my tank. Really helps to prevent loosing a lot of fish just because you added one or two more to your tank ;) For the normal sized transport bags I use a good shot glass full of 3% peroxide in case you wondered. ----- Fridge and freezer Be it after long use or because you bought one second hand - once empty and warm some of our colling gadget just smell bad. A good clean with a hot water and your favourite cleaning agent is a good start, no need for aggressive stuff ;) If clean but still smelly, like after a power failure with fish in it you might want to go one step further. Best option is to use a spray bottle and a peroxide solution of at least 15% here. Use proper protection as mentioned above and spray all surface with the solution until soaked. What you can take out you take you take out, clean properly and then wipe or brush with the same peroxide solution. Bare aluminium should be handled with caution as in some cases it can oxidise badly, leaving a white and not removable crust behind. Here it is best to wipe and then wipe again with a cloth soaked in clear water to limit exposure time. No need to dry out - wipe out and check if it still smells, if so repeat and wiped off all areas as good as you can with a solution soaked cloth. Once the smell is gone dry out and enjoy smell free use from now on :) ----- Fruit and vegetables Unless you know exactly what happened to it you might want to clean your vegies and fruits properly before using them. Pesticides, herbicites, fungicites.... Not mention normal fungus and bacteria on the product.... On a commercial base hydron peroxide baths are often used to clean products for sensible people, hospital use or long term storage. For a personal use this only makes sense if you have free and unlimited access to the peroxide. An alternative are ozone bubblers. Expensive models can eb bought in shops or online, complete with timers or even a gauge showing the concentration in a room. On a hobby level for the kitchen sink we can use an ozone generator, air pump and bubble stone from the aquarium store ;) Let the pump bubble out the ozone for a minute or two, fill the sink with the fruit and veggies and move them around every few minutes. Best of course with an open window to limit you exposure to the ozone! Rule of thumb: If you can smell it is already too much in the air! The ozone in the water does the same as the peroxide: It breaks down harmful things with pure oxygen. The downside is that it is very harmful for your airways and body in general, so against all what youtube can offer I actually prefer to treat my fruit and veggie in a sealed bag. Place them inside, push out as much air as you can and then fill up with the ozone from the generator. Once the bag is full leave for about 30 minutes then wash and use or place the things in the fridge.
Posted by Downunder35m 1 year ago | last reply 1 year ago