Pivot Collaboration

Many people enjoy keith-kid's instructable on pivot, but because he no longer "pivots", the instructable has been discontinued. I'd like some collaborators, along with me, to produce an other instructable which covers more topics and covers them in greater detail. If I get enough acceptance, I'll make a start, but only if people are happy to collaborate. Feedback would be greatly appreciated.

Posted by The Jamalam 8 years ago


Two Things: Pivots and Wrestling

First,How many people here like wrestling?I love it.Second,My pivotshttp://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g238/dk619animal/powerbomb-1.gifhttp://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g238/dk619animal/bigsault.gifThey are wrestling too...lol

Posted by HBF 11 years ago


Wasagi Likes Instructables (Pivot)

(See Image)

Posted by Wasagi 9 years ago


pivot preview

This is a preview of my movie,its got some blood in it so its rated teen or pg-13. im not sure if you can see it or not but tell me how you think!

Posted by pivotman08 10 years ago


Windows Movie Maker Problem

For some reason every time i use windows movie maker now it either turns my gifs into "day trips" or to 2 second randomness if anyone has experienced this or knows what to do about this I'd like to know what to do ??? Plus+ my camtasia is recording really slow?

Posted by kenexinator 8 years ago


pivot stick animator

I need help with pivot stick animator, I made a movie and and I want to put a song in the back round but I don't know how. Please help. buttersbob29

Posted by buterSBob29 10 years ago


Problems with Pivot Stickfigure Animator! PANIC!!!

AAAAAAAAAAAHHH!!!!I downloaded a bunch of stk. files to use with Pivot Stickfigure Animator. Some of them required version 3, I have version 2.Anyway, when I click on the file, Windows ask me to choose an installation package, even though Pivot is already installed, and I can import stks with the program. I basically have to go to the program each time I want to see a file. What's going on?!!!

Posted by Keith-Kid 10 years ago


My Pivots

Http://ie.youtube.com/watch?v=pKwDeRvwLMUI made them into a video

Posted by HBF 11 years ago


pivot?

I have pivot but i want to make stick fights with it is there a different program thats easier to use for weapons? But i guess you could use like windows media player and paint or something. But is there a different program? Also i want to try to do something like...this

Posted by Easy Button 11 years ago


need how to make wall art with repositionable mirror

I have this idea to make a mirrored wall art piece that uses mirrors on pivots that I can reposition.  I need help sourcing pivots.  The image that I have in mind is those swiveling customer pens that banks have at the counter.  Heck...maybe I just need to get a lot of those pens. Anyways, I'd appreciate any helpful comments.

Posted by firehorse 5 years ago


What to use as a pivot? eyelet, hollow shaft, hollow nut & bolt? Help

I am looking for a permanent way to hold together a leg between 2 plastic pieces. I want the shaft that goes in the hole to be hollow, cause i plan to pass something through it. I have attached an image with the dimensions. The leg (center) is aluminum and the plastic parts on either side are delrin. I was thinking of eyelets, a shaft or a hollow nut and bolt with thread fastner, but I think all will have to be custom made. I want the fastner that holds the leg and the plastic together to also help in restrictive rotation so that alittle force is required to rotated the leg about the hollow pivot point (the shaft). Does anyone have any ideas of how i can do this or any better methid? Thanks for all your help in advance.

Posted by MickeyT1 4 years ago


Camera Stabilizer (Physics related)

I had an idea for a camera stabilizer a while ago which involves some basic rules of physics. I've done some thinking on it and I can't seem to figure out if it would really work or not. It involves two principles: 1.) Torque (t=f*d) 2.) Inertia (p=m*v) ---- The idea is to combine a gimbal design found on camera "gliders" like these: -Commercial product: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/521721-REG/Steadicam_MERLIN_Merlin_Camera_Stabilizing_System.html -Homemade design: http://www.diycamera.com/stabiliser/index.html ...with some sort of see-saw to counter the effects of up-and-down motion.  Ignoring the fact that this might be somewhat hard to hold such a thing, I just want to know if this would work. ---- Any balanced see-saw will have an equal amount of torque on either side of the pivot point. Therefore, a balanced see-saw will work with 500g hung 10cm from either side of the pivot point, OR 750g 5cm from one side and 250g 15cm from the other side (750*5=3750; 250*15=3750).  With this concept, I thought of designing this part of the stabilizer like a small camera jib (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jib_(camera)). That is, the camera on one end with a counterweight on the other. The pivot point would have a handle or some kind of vehicle mount on it.  The stabilization occurs (or so I'm thinking) because of inertia. Inertia=mass*velocity. So, when the pivot point (the handle) moves up or down, one of the sides of the see saw should move up faster than the other. The side that moves up slower (the longer side of the see saw, I'm thinking) should have the camera mounted to it.  ---- Is there a flaw somewhere in my thinking? THE QUESTION: Would both sides of an uneven length, balanced see-saw move up at the same time when the pivot point is moved up or down? I'm not really sure and I'd like to hear your input. 

Posted by John Smith 6 years ago


Murphy style beds mechanism

Hey guys, I need some advice, I want to build a murphy style bed, in short i want the bed to look like so: http://www.resourcefurniture.com/space-savers/queen-space-saving-beds/ito I have build and tested the shelf.leg system, it works pretty well and is weighted out nicely. the concept is going to use pistons to lower the bed for a smoother feel but what my concern is what would be the best way to build the pivot mechanism at low cost but high durability. the bed will have a sofa at the front also but not like the one in the link, my version will be more of a box with cushion and fabrik that i can store items away into. Please use the link below to view a version of my concept for the pivot mechanism: http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/692/pivotsystem.jpg ( i know there are a few misspelt words but it was just a quick mock up for you guys) Any help is welcome - just dont advise me to buy the murphy bed mechanism as its to expensive and i believe i can build the entire bed for the same price :)

Posted by rron.r 6 years ago


Help with building a sphere made of wood.

I'm looking to build myself a globe but I'm having a little trouble. Most globes today have a single pivot that lets you rotate the globe along a single axis. I'm looking to build a globe/sphere that will allow you to rotate it 360 degrees in any direction. My grandpa used to have a globe that didn't have any pivots and that had a stand that you could place the sphere/globe on and you could rotate it anyway you wanted. I haven't been able to find anything close, and his got burnt down in a fire. I don't foresee the base being a problem, but I haven't really built any spherical shapes with wood as of yet and I am hoping you guys might have a few tips to help me on my way. I figure I should start with creating a skeleton of a sphere using at least three interlocking rings and go from there and see how sturdy it is. Any insight or tips are much appreciated.

Posted by Lorek 10 years ago


Instructable on how to adjust/align bicycle caliper brakes?

Does anyone have (or could easily post or direct me to) an Instructable on adjusting old-style caliper brakes (the kind with two arms on a central sprung pivot)? I found Bicycle Tutor's video on cantilever brakes, but nothing for my specific need. Google came up with mostly cantilever-brake stuff, and the few caliper-brake Web pages were not very clear.

Posted by kelseymh 9 years ago


Gripper toy/Prosthetic Prototype

Well its a simple cycle brake (side pull single pivot,brake pads removed) inserted in a glove that can be used to grab objects. The initial idea was to build on it further and have the brake lever fitted under the armpit such that when the arm is moved towards the body the lever gets pulled and the grip tightens to grab objects for persons who might be missing part of the hand from below the elbow. However didn't get any further for various reasons, would be very happy if anyone would find it useful.

Posted by Freddy Francis 4 years ago


gripper toy/prosthetic prototype

Well its a simple cycle brake (side pull single pivot,brake pads removed) inserted in a glove that can be used to grab objects. The initial idea was to build on it further and have the brake lever fitted under the armpit such that when the arm is moved towards the body the lever gets pulled and the grip tightens to grab objects for persons who might be missing part of the hand from below the elbow. However didn't get any further for various reasons, would be very happy if anyone would find it useful.

Posted by Freddy Francis 4 years ago


Torsion spring resource wanted

I am going to build an arm to hold a tv that will hang from the ceiling. It will be approximately 52" for pivot to CG. As I am a teacher it will be an old fashion heavy CRT (prolly around a 25" tv)rather than cool wazoo light weight flat screen. I am looking for an appropriate torsion spring to take it from hanging to pinned up against the ceiling. I know about garage door springs but can't figure a way to retemper the spring after I cut off a few coils and bend an end so I can use it. Any ideas you may have to come up with a spring (canabalized is fine) or a retempering process would be appreciated! Thanks! Mikey

Posted by Mikey D 10 years ago


knex vulcan mini gat

Ok this will be the best thing out of knex,but i need some help.I have an idea for the gear box and twisting pivoting stand,but thats about it i want it to be like a real one with a mag 4-8 barrels that cock themselfs using a rail system so if you have any ideas(especialy knex masters like mepain mykhailo or killerk or any other person)please post soon i think i have an idea for a way to make it have only one mag wat will happen is at the end of the mag there will be a ledge that holds them in place then when the barrel comes around it can grab it with a special tooth attachment and then gravity will pull it down into the barrel(no idea on how to build yet) pic 1 real thing pic 2-3 gear box

Posted by darth acexxacer 10 years ago


Switch Design Issues?

Okay, so I've been working on a prop for a Team Fortress 2 Medic costume, and I've run into a fairly major problem with the wiring of the Medigun. I have everything figured out, except the triggering mechanism for most of the LEDs. In-game, the "trigger" is a pivoting handle, such as one that operates a valve on a firehose. The problem is that I have no idea how to find/install a switch that will activate when the lever (indicated below) is pushed forward. I'm still trying to decide how to install the switch, but as long as the switch is active through a given angle, the installation shouldn't be too difficult to negotiate. Another problem is finding appropriate switches with low actuation forces, but that's an entirely different issue. So, where could I buy that sort of switch, or barring that, how can I make one that will hold up decently well? Thanks in advance!

Posted by bensciguy 7 years ago


Homemade player piano

So I got two pianos for free, one in great condidtion other than being out of tune and having a stiff action, and the other, a player, having a badly cracked soundboard and pinblock.  I salvaged the player pneumatics and bellows from the player and managed to mount it upon the other piano.  On each note bellows there were rods that pushed on levers to trip the action of the player piano.  On this one, these levers are about a foot and a half above the bottom of the action, because it is a console piano (shorter).  I've tried linking the bellows to the keys with hooks (which didn't work, it just pulled the keys off the center pivot point) and directly to the action, on the bridle strap hook.  I've tried different strings and two different gauges of wire, but they always seems to stretch, untie or to come unhooked whenever a note is triggered with the player, or with the keys.  If anyone has ideas on how to link the player mechanism to the piano action, any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

Posted by SamDavisson 9 months ago


Help make a quacking noise in a wooden toy duck (mechanically, not electronically)

I'm in the process of recreating the LEGO wooden duck toy. I'm only working from a few images I've found online, however; I don't have an actual one to examine. On the originals, the axles operated a couple of mechanisms: the duck head pivots to open and close the beak, and there's a mechanism under the base (I'm assuming) that makes a quacking noise. I've got a pretty good idea how to create a simple cam for the head/beak movement, but I'm not sure how to generate a quacking noise mechanically. My online searches have proved fruitless. Does anyone happen to have one of these vintage LEGO ducks and is willing to snap and share some photos of the mechanisms? Or, does anyone have any good ideas how to make a quacking noise mechanically? My thoughts are a push/pull rod-type crank attached to an axle, but on the other end of the rod . . . not sure.

Posted by seamster 2 years ago


NEW knex SPEC-9 sniper rifle- NOW RELEASED!!!!

IT IS POSTED! https://www.instructables.com/id/Radioactives_knex_SPEC_9_sniper_rifle/https://www.instructables.com/community/SR_v2_update/Here is a new gun that i will post (if you say u want it) AND keep. it is a big upgrade to the SPEC-9 pistol in range and decency. this will be posted both here and on knex innovationfull credit goes to oompa-loompa for the ammopartial credit goes to killerk for the bipodPROS-Better range than all my other guns combined (the house is not big enough to determine the range)-a slingshot-a great alternative to the SR-V1 for the piece-deprived-has modes for power or accuracy-uses a special barrel that has friction only where it's needed (this is achieved by putting the barrel upside-down except for the two parts closest to the trigger)-great range-to-parts ratio-new bipod can pivot around-rubberband does not fly off the gunCONS-terrible range compared to other slingshots (but the rubberband WAS stretched to the maximum)-bipod does not fold up-edit: now it does-the barrel has a weak point EDIT- PROBLEM SOLVEDshould i post?

Posted by DJ Radio 10 years ago


Real-Life X-Wing Set to Fly

No, really.Andy Woerner and his crazy rocketeer friends have built a 21-foot long X-Wing model that can actually fly. Yes, this is a real X-Wing powered by four solid-fuel rocket engines complete with radio-controlled moving wings. It blasts off in California next week, and we talked with Andy about the project, and how they expect it will do. The X-Wing model is huge. At 21 feet long and with a wingspan of over 19 feet it is, in fact, big enough to fly a kid in. However, knowing that it will be powered by solid-fuel rockets, they wouldn't put a kid, dog, monkey or Gizmodo editor inside, even if it uses three full parachutes to land.After drawing the plans using CAD software, Andy's team and his friends at Polecat Aerospace (with the help of RMS Laser and Aerotech Consumer Aerospace) used laser cutting to make the pieces out of Baltic Birch wood. They also used solid aluminum for some parts, like the rods which are the pivot point for the wings. full story with more pics

Posted by fungus amungus 11 years ago


Magic The gathering Mosaic!!

For those people that arent familar with magic cards they are collecter as well as playing cards that you can collect and what i intend to make a mosaic out of the art from these cards. the idea is a 29 by 47 tile mosaic (of a face) which will probably be rather big, the tiles will be approx 2 1/16 inches (5.24 cm) by 1 9/16 inches (3.97 cm)  so that will make the whole art work about 1.52m by 1.87m. so there will be the tiles all creating this picture and then i want to put a clear plastic sheet over the top (havent decided if i want it pivoted at the top of to have it completely stuck down but it is not really the problem). I would like to know of suitable methods for glueing each of the tiles as well as what to glue them too as well as bracing of the art to keep it straight and flat and all that, be it made of wood or anything nothing is a problem metal to some extent but yeah any ideas because what i have so far is the tiles ready to be cut and no way to stick them and no idea what to stick them too. any help would be appreciated and thank you in advance :)

Posted by Wozzaman 8 years ago


Open-Source Warfare

Open-Source Warfare is an IEEE Spectrum article discussing how information technology and the internet play a pivotal role in accelerating the adaptation of individuals against organizations through asymmetric warfare.Robb calls this new type of conflict "open-source warfare," because the manner in which insurgent groups are organizing themselves, sharing information, and adapting their strategies bears a strong resemblance to the open-source movement in software development. Insurgent groups, like open-source software hackers, tend to form loose and nonhierarchical networks to pursue a common vision, Robb says. United by that vision, they exchange information and work collaboratively on tasks of mutual interest. The reliance on IT also enables open-source groups to identify and respond to problems much more rapidly than a more structured, top-down entity can--be it the Pentagon or a large software company such as Microsoft. According to some estimates, it now takes Iraqi insurgents less than a month to adapt their methods of attack, much faster than coalition troops can respond. "For every move we make, the enemy makes three," U.S. Brigadier General Joe E. Ramirez Jr. told attendees at a May conference on IEDs. "The enemy changes techniques, tactics, and procedures every two to three weeks. Our biggest task is staying current and relevant."

Posted by ewilhelm 10 years ago


Tire Tee

I want to make a tire tee for my softball-loving daughter. I saw the one in the link below and thought it would be an easy (and cheap) DIY. http://i44.tinypic.com/9tzol5.gif I'd want it to be portable, as her team is talking about practicing inside a school gym when it gets cold and this would be an excellent tool for hitting inside. My thought was to fill a bucket with concrete and stick the pole in it which would be my base. It looks like there's some PVC slipped over the pole with a pin/screw/bolt holding it at the height. If I want to get really fancy, I can drill multiple holes and adjust the height for each girl. The weight of the tire should provide enough resistance on its own. I want to limit any extra resistance from the tee as much as possible. The question I have is about the pivoting tire. What's the best way to set that up? I could have two pieces of PVC connected by a coupler and the tire would rest on the coupler. Or I could secure the the tire to the PVC in some way and when the batter hits it, the tire AND PVC rotates around the base pole. Any suggestions about this? I appreciate any insight! Thanks!

Posted by gharper1 4 years ago


Would mounting a TV inside a piano damage the TV?

We have an upright piano, and we don't have a good place to put our flatscreen. My thought is to put the flatscreen inside the piano. I have measured for clearance and it fits quite neatly. My only concern is if the vibrations from the piano will somehow damage the TV's electronics. On the one hand, the TV has speakers and generates a dynamic range of sound and volume and does just fine. The TV can get louder than we ever play the piano. On the other hand, the piano sounds are fuller and maybe vibrate more than the speakers in the TV do. More details: The vertical board behind and under the keyboard has a latch that is opened so that the board pivots down and forward.  The TV would go inside the space behind this board. It would make the TV close to the ground, but it would be more convenient than the current location. The space in the piano has a depth of about 6 inches. I would install a piece of 3/4 inch ply across the back to mount the TV to. It would be right in front and possibly touching  the sound board and the bass bridge. The TV is 4.5 inches deep at the deepest point. I am sure that the construction is feasible and well within my abilities. I am unsure of any danger to the TV from such a setup. Any insights, references or suggestions are well appreciated.  Thank you, Michael Moore

Posted by stuporglue 9 years ago


MakerBeam Crowdfunded Open Source Building Kit

MakerBeam is a project to build a toy and tool for the open source imagination. Based on Mini-T, a new open source standard, MakerBeam will develop a construction toy for our times: open source precision hardware equally at home doing desktop fabrication or serving as a drawbridged castle for action figures.The fully developed MakerBeam line of connectors will make for an unsurpassed builder's toy and maker kit. Connectors, pivots, hinges, pulleys, cables, wheels, slot-in PCBs, and ALL of it open source, with the models published under Creative Commons licenses. Mini-T is a scaled-down version of T-slot, a building system widely used in automation, prototyping, and machining. This miniature building system will bring the strength and precision of T-slot to a modeling system, allowing serious robotics, CNC machines, and more to be built at a desktop scale. MakerBeam is being built now; we are raising funds and building our Alpha and Beta teams through Kickstarter, an innovative site for crowdfunding. We are nearly 80% of the way to our funding goal, and every extra dollar we raise will go to improving the project for public release, aiming for Maker Faire 2010.For more details including 3-d video of MakerBeam in action check out our Kickstarter page. Alpha kits, which are going fast, ship by Christmas, while Beta kits are projected for February. For even more info, and to contact, stop by the main site.

Posted by atman 9 years ago


Folding coffee table?

Hi instructable community. I am currently graduating, and I own a 484sq. feet (45m^2) apartment. I have the basics and am quite grateful for what I have. however, I belive that a coffee table is almost a necessity. The problem is that if the table isn't wide enough, it won't be of much use, and if it's too wide, it will occupy too much space and will be in the way. That's (hopefully) where you brilliant minded people come in. I was thinking about a folding coffee table that will be thin, and when I have company over, I pull on it or something and it widens up so it can comfortably hold a few glasses and maybe a book or too. I have added a few images of the area that the table will go. The couch is 2m in length (6.56167979 feet) so you can get a generall image of the room. The couch is on a slight angle, so the small plant can fit behind it (it's on a chair so it can get sunlight),  so I can move the couch around a little for a bit more room. Please keep in mind that I do not have many tools, but I know how to work with raw materials, It will just take a little more time (instead of an electrical saw, I have a hand saw. Same job, takes longer). Also I don't have alot of spare money and I can't find "special" items (for example, ball bearings, and pivot and swirlly stuff are out of the picture). I know it sounds quite bizzare but I would like some help. It doesn't HAVE to be a foldable table, but I would prefer it to be, because the couch is also a bed, so if someone comes over for a couple days, I need to be able to "hide" the table to open up some space.  Worst case scenario, I'll make a small(ish) chest that will double as the table. Thank you for your time reading this message. I will be glad to hear from any of you!

Posted by GeorgeK31 3 years ago


Bizzare Google Earth images of my home town.

I was fiddling around with google earth the other day when I realized that I've never looked at the area around my home town in Nebraska. I dialed in the coordinates and pulled up the satellite images, and what I found was so profoundly strange that I felt compelled to share it. What you are seeing here are topographical images of prairie land and cows. The land consists of small rolling hills of dry grassland, and as you can see, the only landmarks to speak of are the cattle stock tanks. These tanks are essentially circular, large, metal, outdoor swimming pools, some as wide as 30 feet across. The tanks are placed on some of the higher hills with a windmill powered pump to keep the tank full of fresh water. Cattle are then let loose on the land to graze on grass and drink from the tanks. Over time the cattle wear down paths in the grass leaving only dusty trails concentrated around the tanks. I am speculating here a bit, but my theory is that rainfall then follows these trails down the hills and creates the strange, vein like lines through the grass. I don't know how long the area has been used for keeping cattle, but my father grew up here and will be able to tell me more later. The final image is of the developed farm land a little closer to civilization. Most people don't know this, but Nebraskans are really into pie charts. Ok, that may be just me, these are are the patterns left by automatic springler systems. They are literally "crop circles" as corn and sugar beets are only planted within the area that the center pivot sprinkler can reach. PS: These stock tanks are ripe with salamanders, but I still have yet to learn how they got in tanks in the first place? It's too dry to walk to the tanks, and they are pretty far from natural water anyway. There is a massive aquifer underneath all of this, maybe they get pumped up into the tanks? Can salamanders live in aquifers?

Posted by Tomdf 5 years ago


TheDunkis's Display and Request Thread

Alright I'm not saying I'm special enough that I should have my own little personal thread dedicated to what I do but...I'm lazy enough that I should have my own little personal thread dedicated to what I do. Why? Simply that. I'm lazy. I don't feel like making a thread/slide show for any new gun I make but I don't want to post it in some other random place. I also don't want to go around asking for ideas whenever I'm stuck. So to put it simple I'm going to display whatever current projects I have here and I'll also take requests. ~Current Project~ FKG (Folding K'nex Gun- Yes very original...) Alright I saw SK's FMG and I wanted to try one out myself. It didn't end up as pretty or as functional as SK's but it is compact and in a very early stage of design. I'm not sure what to do with it because it's at the point where I'll have to completely butcher it to improve it and then that would require whole new ideas on getting the parts that do work to keep working. So as said the only real big difference here is that it's more compact than SK's. Some other differences are -Held in place by a "grip" rather than a "bolt" -At the moment not rubber band loaded -Simpler trigger -Double hinge thingy for the stock to gun connection. So instead of a fixed pivot swing, two different areas rotate to move the stock from the very bottom to just behind the gun. Otherwise it was to fire dark greys with greens as well with a hopper but right now it doesn't work so well. I think the barrel has some friction in it from the way I set it up. I could loosen it up but I'm just going to redesign the gun anways. Should I continue? Or shall I try making a bolt action gun similar to Zak's (but different enough)? Or I'll try something completely new.

Posted by TheDunkis 9 years ago


Ultimate Frisbee Lite.

Ultimate Frisbee rules run to twenty pages, so I came up with this for my classes. I thought I'd share it, but I couldn't see the point in posting an Instructable when my school's rules require written permission from every parent involved before pictures of kids go online, so I just took advantage of Rachel fixing the topic-posting bug. Indoor Ultimate Frisbee Lite (“Indoor Lite”) 1. The play's the thing: all players and observers must keep to The Spirit Of The Game. Teams shoukd self-referee. If any dispute requires a decision by a bystander or observer, that decision is binding. 2. The game may be played with and disc agreed upon by both team captains. 3. Teams of up to 8, with a maximum of 5 players on the field. 4. The game continues for either an agreed length of time, or to an agreed score (for example, “first to five”). 5. Before play, team captains agree the end zones and playing field, and choose ends to defend. An indoor game has no “out of bounds”, and play continues as normal if the disc bounces off walls, ceiling or fixtures in the room. 6. When the opposing team gains possession of the disc, it is called a turnover. 7. Ultimate is non-contact sport – intentional obstruction of, or contact with another player will result in a turnover. If a turnover is the result of a rule-break, the disc is handed to the nearest opposing player. 8. At the start of play, each team gathers in their end zone. One captain throws the disc towards the opposing team. Nobody may enter the playing field until the disc passes the half-way mark. 9. A point is scored when the disc is caught in (or above) the opposing team's end zone. 10. After a point is scored, all players return to their own end-zone, and the player who caught the disc to score the point throws the disc to re-start the game. 11. A player in possession of the disc may not move, but may pivot on one foot. “Travelling” results in a turnover. 12. The player in possession of the disc must throw the disc within five seconds – any near-by player may count to five out loud. Holding the disc past five seconds is a turnover. 13. If the disc hits the ground, possession passes to whichever team did not touch it last – if team A throws it and nobody catches it, team B gain possession. If team A throw the disc, team B block its flight and it then hits the ground, then team A regains possession. If team A throw the disc, but team B catch the disc in the air, team B gains possession and play continues. 14. If two players catch the disc, whoever caught it first gains possession. If two players catch the disc simultaneously, a single round of rock, paper, scissors determines possession. 15. Unlimited substitutions may be made after any point is scored. House Rules. Because Indoor Lite can be played in a wide range of venues, typically school gyms or halls, some “house rules” may be developed, such as “if the disc goes through the basket ball hoop, that's a point as well” or “if the disc falls behind the vaulting horse, possession turns over and everybody goes back to their ends to start play again”. Before play begins, any new or visiting players must be made aware of the house rules. I also blogged this.

Posted by Kiteman 7 years ago


SRV-3 The Concept Review with JBG's SRV-3

Hello fellow iblers’! I’m JonnyBGood and today I decided to post a review of the SRV3 concept. Be sure to note that this is not KILLERK’s official version but a close knock-off. I did not use the same bands or the exactly same mech. I also did not make side covers or the monopod so don’t judge his version based on my model. I also never shot it outdoors so ranges are a complete guess, but I will say KILLERK’s ranges are very believable since I witnessed them at Knex War 2013. So now with all that gibberish out of the way what exactly am I reviewing? Well I’m reviewing the concept, the ratchet mech, trigger mech, and any other part that contributes to the guns function and ergonomics. Okay so now let’s start with the ratchet… Ratchet- After the first use of the gun, I couldn’t imagine trying to load the gun without it. I did try loading it without using it and ended up spontaneous launching it in random directions, something you don’t want to happen with a gun this powerful. (Luckily the wall I hit was cement) The ratchet concept is really what makes the gun usable for people of any age, height or strength so I definitely think KILLERK did a great job designing this feature. Trigger- Well I willingly admit this part is the most different from KILLERK’s version, but it does rely on the same concept of the round being held in by a clamping force. I was actually the most concerned about how this would work because to me holding back a force that could send a yellow rod through a door with a clamp didn’t quite make sense to me.  I will saw after building it I now don’t doubt the clamps capability to hold the round, and now it also makes sense as to why he used a clamp. The clamp trigger mech allows for a very light trigger pull due to the pivot point being so close to the ammo, so the slightest pull moves the clamp up.  SRV-3 trigger is definitely one of those surprising concepts, being that the most powerful gun on instructible’s has one of the lightest trigger pulls I have ever used. Random other things- The ratchet and trigger were the two concepts which to me stood out the most for the SRV-3 concept but there are many other things about the gun which I will cover here. The Handle- So surprisingly enough it is actually pretty comfy, and it’s mainly built to hold the heaviest knex gun I have ever built. On the other hand, I wouldn’t try lifting this gun by just the handle, but why would you? You are definitely not going to akimbo these things unless maybe the handles were moved more toward the front of the gun, and then held like an RPG, but again why would you even want to akimbo or hold it with one hand? It’s a sniper rifle! The Dimensions and some other random things- Alright I bring dimensions up here because I think it’s one thing to see pictures and another to actually know how big this is. If you stand it on end it’s about six feet tall and it’s a yellow rod wide, so ten layers wide. (if you filled in the center which you would not do).  Again as I ranted about earlier this is what makes this gun so heavy but it’s required for the amount of power it’s capable of. You would also add another two layers if you wanted to make it more presentable so it could be 12 layers wide if you want it to be. Another thing that I noticed on my version was that the gun bows toward the end.  Granted I’m not sure as to why or if I was missing a support somewhere but it wasn’t a problem just something I noticed. The only other thing I was planning on reviewing the accuracy but if anything was relevant it is that I suck at shooting accurately! XD I can’t even shoot guns I build accurately so, a guy who is much better at creating coverfire, will not be giving an accuracy score. I will say the sights allowed me to shoot a 8 ½ by 11 sheet of paper from ten to twenty feet relatively easily, so they do help. In conclusion I would recommend you build the SRV-3 if you have the pieces for it. I would especially recommend it if you haven’t built one of KILLERK’S SR’s before because the power will blow you away. It is deffinitlly the king of the slingshot platform for now and probably until an SRV-4.   ( I apologize for the poor picture quality but it would not fit in my normal picture taking spot and there's still too much snow outside for outdoor pictures. Sorry!)

Posted by JonnyBGood 4 years ago


Knex War?

Hey guys! Sharir1701 here and, as most of you guys that knew me back when I was still around probably know, I've lost most of my interest in Knex. I do, however still come on the site ever so often to browse, comment and so on. I've noticed during my past couple of visits that there seems to be a "war", so to speak, raging on between some members of the community, regarding the effect of bulldozing a gun with rubber bands, as well as "how good" is the NAR. In this forum I am assuming you all have basic knowledge in Knex gun technology, are familiar with the stated guns and have a little bit of background in mechanical engineering. Moving on. You might know my opinion about the subject already, but I would like to state it once more as well as explain it better, so perhaps some people that disagree with me could understand my point of view. BUT, before I do that, I can't help but feel guilty for tossing the long burning logs into a small fire. About a month or two ago, in one of my visits, I posted a comment on one of Red's topics (or 'ibles, strike me dead for my memory) about my quite specific opinion about each and every one of the three guns in question in the said topic, the ZKAR, the NAR and the TR8. I said a few things about rubber bands and brute force vs. complexion and efficiency, and I may have started something unintentionally. That argument has been around since, if I recall correctly, 2009, but it hasn't been brought up again in a while. I feel like I made that happen and then I enraged a few more people by saying that "efficiency and good design beats brute force any day" (or something like that...). I'm not taking credit for starting this thing again, but rather I'm apologizing for sparking up an old and possibly pointless argument. Nonetheless, I will now explain my opinion on the subject and hopefully nobody gets mad at me for doing so, but if you have a valid counter argument, please state it below in an understandable and polite way. Thank you. If so, then, what is this whole thing even about? The "KI Crew", as I like to call them, have been very proud of their NAR and TR-n series guns for a few years now. The TR series I'll admit is very good, but I don't accept the "add as many rubber bands as possible" argument. Now, the NAR, personally, I dislike the gun. I have had nothing but bad range tests with it in the 3 times throughout the past 4 years that I've built it, and I've heard similar results from several people and some close friends. I highly doubt I was doing something wrong all THREE times, so don't bother to bring that up, please. The NAR is a gun designed for nothing else but being capable of withstanding great amounts of force and shooting a single round "the strongest a pin gun can shoot". How? Very simple - make a massively dense and very shock-proof body and then just add as many rubber bands as you can before your hands start bleeding. Now, let me explain, I'm saying 2 points here. First, the NAR is nothing special, just a strong structure with a simple connector barrel and a reinforced pin. We've seen it before, people. The claim that it's a good gun simply because you can put on as many bands as you want, pretty much, is, in my eyes, invalid. So I can make a bomb and just put as much explosives on it as I can afford, surely it'll be better than an atomic bomb... WRONG. It won't. Theoretically, even if it makes a bigger bang, it takes so much effort and it is so non-elegant that it loses it's point within itself. (Do not take this metaphor out of hand! You know what I mean). Second, and more importantly, I'm claiming that even if my first claim is wrong, if you look at the technical side of things you'll see that the very premise that adding more and more rubber bands to a gun will make it much stronger, is wrong in it's origins. I'm sure we all know this, but let me remind us all the physics of how a basic pin gun works. When the potential energy stored in the strained rubber bands, and rested on the cocked pin, is released, it accelerates the pin. The pin then proceeds to gain speed and it reaches three main milestones:  The initial strike of the bullet (The pin is already accelerated and is just touching the bullet, but the bullet is still). The point of equality, as I've dubbed it before (Just a few tiny fractions of a second after the initial strike, at this point the pin is ever so slightly slower than it was in the initial strike, but the bullet is now travelling at an equal speed as the pin, with a tiny gap between the two, meaning they aren't actually touching at this point) And finally, "the crash" (the bullet has left the barrel, the pin is at it's highest speed and is the most energetic as it pointlessly crashes into the back of the barrel losing and wasting all of it's remaining energy). In a world where you could use 100% of the acceleration of the pin and transfer it all into the bullet, adding more bands would indeed make a much stronger gun. BUT, that is impossible, in fact, it's no where near that. To put it all into a short sentence, the bullet accelerates and fires with a fraction of the energy released during the shot and to a certain limit, it is almost exactly the same amount of energy after a certain point. So, let's talk Maths. There is a direct correlation between the number of rubber bands on a gun and the amount of acceleration (and force) in the pin when fired. The pin's acceleration as a function of the number of rubber bands on the gun is in the order of magnitude of y=x. That's true, and that is where the misguided claim in question comes from. However, if we take a look at the graph of a bullet's acceleration as a function of the number of rubber bands on the gun, we can conclude, according to the above explanation, that the function is in the order of magnitude of y=sqrt(x). That means that up to a certain pivot, which I claim is, on average, around the 2-3 rubber band mark, adding more rubber bands does in fact produce a drastically stronger shot, but past that point, adding more rubber bands adds more brute force, yes, but it makes the shot stronger only just slightly, and by an increasingly smaller amount the more bands you put on it. BUT, and this is the big BUUT, the graph of the force required to cock the gun as a function of the number of bands on the gun is, again, in an order of magnitude of y=x. In conclusion, up to a certain, quite low point, adding more rubber bands will give you a drastically stronger shot without stressing the gun too much and without making the pull incredibly hard. However, past that point, adding more rubber bands adds an insignificant amount of power to the gun while introducing a whole lot more difficulty in operating it, resulting in an overall, worse gun. That is why I claim that a gun built around the sole concept of being capable to handle a lot of rubber bands is a nice concept, but is much worse than a gun built around efficiency (meaning you try to invest as much of the potential energy of the pin into the bullet by making a more efficient layout and a smarter usage of the forces in play). If you got this far, thank you for reading my article, and I hope this will put an end to this silly argument, but knowing how people's feelings work and how male ego and testosterone works, I bet it's far from it. Happy Knexing everybody ;)

Posted by Sharir1701 5 years ago


Longest Comment on Instructables (Possibly)

Https://www.instructables.com/answers/What-essential-tools-should-I-include-in-my-dorm-r/The longest comment on this site is one by Guardian Fox on the "What survival tools should I keep in my dorm room tool box?" If anyone can find a longer one, please PM me the link.Keep in mind, he typed this with his own fingers, not by holding down the paste command for a day. If that's what you want, then go to https://www.instructables.com/community/the_forum_for_spam/ Source: Guardian FoxFor the dorm room, you only need a few tools. You're not going to be renovating, and you're not going to be doing much woodworking. You aren't allowed to do anything at all to the room beyond hanging pictures (if that), and most dorms forbid power-tools in the rooms no matter what you're use them for. Here's my take on what you'll need for the dorm. I've included a lot of things that seem unnecessary, and you can probably live without some of it... but the kit will get you through nearly any problems you'll encounter at school or in an apartment:-At least one decent multi-bit screwdriver. Look for something with a comfortable grip and sturdy construction. Avoid gimmicks like built in flashlights. I recommend the Piquiq brand which comes in a few different sizes and can be found in many hardware stores in North America. You can usually get their three-piece set for less than $20.-A set of jeweler's screwdrivers. Get a cheap set because these little things WILL get lost. Look for something with at least a few unusual bits as well as the usuals. Get a 30ish-piece set for less than $20. Most handy if you've got a thing for messing with your electronics, but also great for changing a watch battery, fixing glasses, etc.-A basic hammer. Nothing fancy needed here, and I've always preferred an ordinary wooden-handled hammer anyway. Go for a smaller hammer if you only plan on hanging pictures, get a regular-sized hammer if you plan on using it to do real work later on. Stanley is a good brand with decent prices, but there are lots of good budget-priced hammers out there. Drop by a hardware store and pick one that feels good in your hand. Less than $20 for a brand name. $10 or less for a bargain hammer. Make sure the head of the hammer is securely attached to the handle, no matter what brand you pick but a little tiny wiggle is ok. Hang a picture or tap a few finishing nails into a small project. Very handy, even when you use it wrong.-Two utility knives with snap-off blades. One with the small size, and the other with the larger size. There are hundreds of brands of these on the market, and a lot of them are junk so spring for an Olfa (the best i.m.o.) if you can find it. Richard is a decent low-cost brand which is often found in paint stores. Again, avoid gimmicks. The most important thing you need to know is if the locking mechanism works well or not, as a utility knife can become dangerous if the blade is going to slide around while you're using it. Good knives can be around $10-20 each. Cheap, "disposable" knives can be found for less than a dollar, but be sure to buy something that seems sturdy. Add a self-healing cutting mat from the dollar store, and while you're there get a metal ruler for cutting straight lines. Smaller utility knives are good for light-duty applications like trimming photographs or opening packages. Larger utility knives are good for harder work like cutting lots of cardboard-A measuring tape. You probably already have a ruler for school, but a measuring tape is much more useful for around the house. Get a 16' tape for good versatility. Choose one that has a sturdy housing and a tape that slides in and out easily. Bennett is a good budget brand you can find for less than $10 and I recommend theirs over any of the name-brand tapes out there. If you can't find that brand, go to the building supplies store and ask what brand the clerks and outside staff use around the shop. You could skip this one during college, but you'll need it one day and it's the kind of thing you can make uses for.-Pliers. For around the house and crafting I find a pair of long-nose pliers more handy than a pair of linesman's pliers, but both tools have their place. Locking pliers (aka vice grips) are also super-handy. Get one or a set, but avoid the bargain brands. Look to spend at least $7 each for basic pliers, and at least $12 for a good pair of locking pliers. -An adjustable wrench (aka thumb-wrench). Pick a smaller-sized model for your toolbox. Most of the nuts and bolts in the house will be small anyway. Go for something that opens up to 1" or 1 1/2" Brand isn't an issue, but make sure it operates smoothly and won't jam or work loose. Spend less than $10. -Scissors. A usable, general purpose pair of scissors can be found at the dollar stores or in an office supply store. Make sure they open and close smoothly and that the blades don't wiggle. Look for one with a metal screw at the pivot so you can tighten it if it works loose. If you're using it routinely for cutting fabric or any other specific task, spend some extra money and get the right kind for the job or at least a good pair of general purpose ones. Less than $5 for cheap ones, $20+ for quality ones.-Sewing notions; A pack of needles, a roll of white thread, a roll of black thread, and a roll of transparent thread, a few safety pins and any spare buttons you find. That should get you through any wardrobe fixes you may need. Each item in the kit should be a dollar or less, and you can save money by starting with a pre-made kit from a dollar store and adding a few of your own extras. Also highly recommended is this, http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1352 , but keep in mind it is cheap for a reason and needs constant attention.-A soldering iron if it's allowed in your room, and only if you're working with or fixing electronics or jewelry. Get a scrap piece of plywood or something to use as a work surface. $15 for a basic 30w iron. Another $10 for a safer stand.-A toolbox that holds everything. I like the ones that double as a step-stool, which you can find for $20-$30 if you look hard enough (mastercraft and rubbermaid brands). You might like something different, but small plastic toolboxes and even small plain steel ones are all quite cheap so go look and see what you like. You can even use your imagination and just use a plastic tote, a tacklebox, a backpack/messenger bag, shoebox, etc. Just pack your tools in it neatly and avoid putting the heavy or sharp ones on top of the ones that might break.-A plunger. If your dorm room has a bathroom, this is a must even if you never have to use it. It's an insurance policy against one hell of a mess. $10-$15.Anyway, that's all I can think of for tools. Craftier folks need more gear, and less DIY-prone folks need less. Use your best judgment and buy only what you can afford and might actually use. Pick up a few fasteners and adhesives too, usually as needed. Here's what you should probably keep on hand.-A package of assorted picture-hangers and hooks (if hanging pictures is allowed in your dorm). Buy a pack at the dollar store. A few extra finishing nails and small screws would be a good addition to this as well.-Thumbtacks. Buy a pack at the dollar store or office supply store.-Scotch tape, packing tape, duct tape (or Gorilla tape).-Twist ties. Get a bunch from a pack of trash bags.-A package of superglue. Rather than one large tube, get the pack with several tiny tubes so you don't lose your entire supply when one dries up.-Craft wire. Use it wherever you might use a twist tie, but also can be bent into whatever shape you need to become a tool or a piece of art. Dollar stores carry rolls of it often at 2/$1

Posted by M4industries 9 years ago