Cannot download print.html error when I try to print a instructable.
Posted by reese hill 10 years ago | last reply 4 years ago
Yesterday I was able to print instruction pages with no trouble. Today, in both firefox and explorer, when I attempt to print I get a "encountered a problem and must shut down" message, and then I'm back to my desktop. I've tried on 2 different computers with the same result.
Posted by flashgordonbrown 10 years ago | last reply 10 years ago
Hey .i went into one of your instructables ..how to bezel.. tried to print and it only printed the same pages over and over.. and not the instruction pages but rather the comments of everyone else which i did not need..i cannot get my printer to stop printing these pages and it will not let me print anything else on my printer ,.i have pressed cancel print on my printer and it still tries to print..i have shut my printer all the way down and it still keeps printing your pages...HELP.................. i have used a whole bundle of paper not to mention all the ink... i need my printer for my work and it has affected my work day.. i am very upset..will never ever use your site again.. i hope this gets to you.. there is no contact number for me to call anyone.. but i need a call immediately.865 850 5453.. i have already emailed this same email to servicea@instructables as it told me to do so in your site but it came back as undeliverable.. ... call me asap... lora williams
Posted by lora williams 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
I have access to a printer, which can print on standard paper - but that's not what I want. There are publishing houses (and Instructables!) that can print my text in a bound book - but that's not quite what I want, either (not yet!) What I want is: a printer, that can take an empty, bound book (Moleskine for example)... and print in it. Without damaging the book! Has anyone made,or bought, such a printer? At first I thought it would need to be some form of XY plotter, but a normal print head should do the job. The trick would be setting the page limits, holding the unused portion of the book, and to start the print at the spine.
Posted by AlanC2 4 years ago
Hello, I have a apple mac PowerBook G4 that connects wireless to our 4-port adsl modem which the PC connects to as well. I was recently tiding out the box of cables and modems and stuff. I found our old adsl modem it just has a power port a telephone port and an Ethernet port and a usb port. I also have a sub wireless adapter(plug in to a PC and you have a wireless adapter. Is there a way to modify these items to build a print server so i can connect to it and print. I can't modify the wireless modem since thats what we use for internet.Is there a way to make one so I don't have to pay like over $50 for one I want a small device so i can make our usb printer a network one so i can print easily??
Posted by jbman 10 years ago | last reply 10 years ago
After seven tries, I give up! PDFs will not print inspite of re-entering my Pro login multiple times. My login is recognized, but as soon as I try to save a favorite or print a PDF, I am required to re-enter my login. After loging in (again) nothing happens. VERY FRUSTRATING.
Posted by Frmeyers 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
Hello, i am working on my 3d printer, but i haven't completed it yet....... but still a question arises in my mind..... that can i print this (here- http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:399610) , i mean i sliced it..... and saw..... that at one layer..... it extrudes filament..... in the middle of no-where...... i mean how can it stick in the air...... ???????
Asked by _Boltz_ 3 years ago | last reply 3 years ago
Im looking to make some business cards out of clear or frosted plastic. Other than taking the order to a printing company, is there any way that I could print the information or images I want onto the plastic myself?
Hi I am planning on 3D printing something and was wondering about some things: 1) What kind of programs can I use? 2) How hard would it be to create in the program/how much experience would I need? It's a pretty complex design and I have never touched 3D printing so this is unfamiliar territory. 3)What are some good sites that will print this design from ABS plastic for cheap? 4) How well would I have to know my math? 5) Is there anything else I need to know before I dive right in? With this knowledge in mind I'd like for you guys to see what I plan on making I really want this made and I would be the happiest man on earth if I could get it. Please help!
Asked by Iridium7 7 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
I often want to print a diagram to scale. Often times the diagram is also larger then the sheetof paper. ( A sample diagram is at:http://www.boomerangpassion.com/plans/img/b08.gifhttp://www.boomerangpassion.com/plans/img/b08.gif. If you want to see other similar diagrams you can look at:http://www.boomerangpassion.com/plans/index_en.phphttp://www.boomerangpassion.com/plans/index_en.phpThough not all the diagrams I want to print are boomerangs.I am using Debian Etch, Cups, Gimp to modify the images which I save as postscript then print via lpr.My printer is a Lexmark Optra E312L, which can handle both pcl6 and postscript.I print the diagram once, measure something and figure the scaling factor. I then use Gimp to scale.Sometimes I just save and print sometimes, sometimes I break it up into overlapping parts and print.In either case the result is the same. Either the diagram gets shrunk to 1/4 it's size ( even though I blew it up), or the daigram it off by a bit, no matter how I tweak. it seems not to be predictable either. Worse when I try to line up two overlapping printouts the size don't match, so I can't really join them.Can someone show how to use Gimp, cups and a postscript printer to print something to scale. From everything i read I should be able to do it, but I guess there is some piece of software in the process thatis saying "Guy is too stupid to print it up right, I have to rescale for him".
Posted by BoomGuy 11 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
Has anyone tried this? I have a lightscribe. Looking at the video it seems that all I need is some graphite oxide. I tried embeding the video but I don't think it is going to work. Here is a link to the video. The Super Supercapacitor | Brian Golden Davis from Focus Forward Films on Vimeo.
Posted by ehudwill 5 years ago | last reply 5 years ago
I'm doing some small scale brewing, and I want to rig up some custom labels & caps for a real professional presentation. Labels are easy enough, but caps are throwing a few spanners into the works... Does anyone have any ideas on how to print them? Here are my current ideas:Toner Transfer - use a custom template and rig to hold multiple caps, then use an iron modified into a solder-press-like device to transfer. removing the paper cleanly could be difficult, and the results are unpredictableSilk Screening - build a similar rig to hold caps in place, and screen them. i don't know much about creating screens, and longevity, but it's probably too complex/expensive for small batches.Custom Stamp - use a rubber or pre-inked stamp to impress the design. simple, but expensive for multiple designs. i don't know how well the ink for pre-inked stamps will bond to metal, and I don't know what ink to use for a rubber stamp.Any thoughts are welcome.
Posted by gschoppe 10 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
Hey: I have tried several times recently to download custom PDF instructions from various instructables so as to print them. I don't do this often but in the past when I have it has worked fine. Looking for possible reasons why I am running into problems this time. Any suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks,
Posted by jwhit 6 years ago | last reply 5 years ago
Well i like the new pdf idea but in some of them im finding the image notes (at the bottom where the pic should be)and a blank white space i hate tried to leave it and then look again but it didnt work ive seen this on some of dj radios, and ironman69s and thats all ive seen i hope you can fix this
Posted by knexsuperbuilderfreak 9 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
I myself don't own a 3D printer, but for those lucky fellows out there that do, I think sculptris could be a great tool for 3D printers. It's basically a virtual clay sculpting program. You can also paint your sculpture. Here is the link to download it. Happy printing! (just watch out for nargles)
Posted by LunaTonks 5 years ago | last reply 5 years ago
Is it true that there are 3d printers that print in metal? If so what kind of 3D Printer is this and about how much do they cost? Oh also how exactly does that work when 3D Printing is supposed to be additive manufacturing and metal isnt a liquid or even flexible at solid states?
Posted by acadena2 5 years ago | last reply 5 years ago
Hi, I haven't got a 3D printer but I do have a model I would like to be test-printed. I have a model designed in sketchup and I was wondering if anyone out there could test it for me to make sure it worked before posted an instructable on it. Thanks.
Asked by JM1999 4 years ago | last reply 4 years ago
I want to submerge a 2 meter tall face, what kind of material plays the nicest with Hydrographic printing? is this technique fine? is the 2 meter thing a problem? https://www.instructables.com/id/Fine-Art-from-Cardboard/ if I stay on step 4, is it subergible? I want to look at all the possibilities
Posted by DIAGONALLIS 1 year ago | last reply 1 year ago
Would not having printed instructions put you off buying a kit ? I put together a coke can Stirling engine kit, but I don't know whether to print instructuctions or have them on the website. Printing them myself would probably increase the cost by a fair bit as my cheap inkjet printer really eats expensive ink (must by new printer - but they are evil). The assembly isn't really complicated. Your opinions please!
Posted by scraptopower 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
Hi everyone, Hope you're all well? cartridgesave.co.uk recently held their first ever 3D Print Cup - A challenge issued to 3D artists to design an original 3D character, which they'd then print off (for free!) using a 3D Printer. The designers were all allowed to finish off their creations, and awards were given out at the wrap party, with the best overall design winning a Makerbot 2x Replicator. We had some amazing entries, from all over the UK and even the USA, South America and Europe. A gallery of the all the entrants has been uploaded at www.cartridgesave.co.uk/3dprintcup Hopefully there will be another 3D Print Cup next year, so keep your eyes peeled on the site.
Posted by Asekhri 5 years ago | last reply 5 years ago
I'd like to make some waterproof sticky labels.There are special waterproof papers that work with some inkjets and some inks but I wondered if there might be an alternative.Thoughts so far.Use a fabric dye like Dylon (tm) in an inkjet cartridge to print onto the plastic label directly.Or print as above onto paper and transfer the image onto plastic labels using chemicals and/or heatCould laser toner be transferred onto plastic using similar methods ?
Posted by scubascooby 10 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
Hi, I want to print a 200 pg book I have in booklet form. What I mean is that on each A4 sheet, there should be 4 pages printed front and back. I should be able to fold the sheets in half afterwards and get a book that is half the size of the A4 sheet. I have tried to do this with the printer settings but when I came out, it wasn't in correct order. Also one side of the sheet is in one direction and the other side is in another so it looks like half the sheet was printed upside down. Before I waste more paper, what may be the problem? The only thing I may have done wrong is to specify "long edge" instead of "short edge" for two sided printing. This was done on a HP 8100 laser printer. Thanks
Asked by phillyj 8 years ago | last reply 2 years ago
3D printers are pretty awesome tools for prototyping objects. Now some people are also using hem to make shoes. People who like going clubbing with yellow skinpaint, apparently. Goofy shot aside, it's an interesting use since you can customize the shoe for your foot perfectly, but the look of something that's 3D printed will likely get old quickly. Link
Posted by fungus amungus 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
Those of you who may have had the occasion to paint a 3D print I'm curious what products and techniques you may have used. I've used one of the Customizer Things to make some name tags and I'd like to paint the raised letters to help them stand out. Any suggestions or methods that work on ABS? Curt
Posted by CurtWG 4 years ago | last reply 4 years ago
I'm interested in making vinyl wall decals myself for my apt. I saw one instructable to cut the design on contact paper and stick it on the wall. But what if I have my own design (image) on my computer and wanted to print that on the contact paper. Can I do it using my inkjet printer or do I need any other special paper? Basically I wanted to print my design on any vinyl paper and transfer that onto the wall. Thank you...
Asked by srini318 9 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
Help!! We are trying to silk screen on white cotton handkerchiefs. They take the ink fine. The white fabric turns a shade of yellow. That's the trouble. Why is this happening? We have used two different handkerchiefs, both purportedly 100% cotton and the same thing has happened twice. This is being done by a professional silk screener....whaddaya think?
Posted by pinkyjabberbox 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
Hi. Me and my friend have just started try to do some screen printing for tee shirts. We have made a few mistakes and it still isn't working properly. We bought a speedball kit and when we coated our first screen with emulation we then realised that we didn't mix the emulation with the sensitizer. So we washed off and then recoated with the now mixed emulation. We have also been using a 200w bulb and exposed our screen for 25 mins. We use transparent projector sheets. We also didn't have any black card so used a black bin bag under our screen when exposing. When we wash off the emulation with a hand held spray gun, too much emulation is coming away and leaving patches of space. Is this because we are not exposing it for long enough, or that the emulation is no good or a combination of all? Also, How long does it take for the emulation to dry and does this have a limited amount of time before exposure? Please help :-)
Asked by siol 9 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
I was thinking about 3d printing aluminum and was wondering if you could do something like this. You have a stainless steel air tight cylinder, surrounded with some refreactory, then nichrome wire, then insulating refreactory. The first layer of refractory is to prevent an electric short between the wire and the stainless steel cylinder. Stainless steel so it will take longer to oxidize. You would fill the cylinder with aluminum, close it, turn on the heater, t would heat up the stainelss steel and aluminum and melt the aluminum. Temperature could be regulated. Air would go to a hole in the top of it, the air would be regulated by a solenoid valve and a a pressure release valve. A needle with come out of the bottom, however it would be bent into a upside down U shape and one side would poke out the bottom, this would preven the aluminum from running out when there wasn't pressure. When the solenoid is open, aluminum comes out, when the solenoid is closed the release valve is opened to get rid of any excess pressure and stop the aluminum flow. This would be put in the place of the the traditional extruder, would this work?
Asked by snowluck2345 8 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
Sit in on a trade show seminar or visit an online forum, and you'll encounter countless debates about the "right" type of mesh to use. The truth is, while there are some guidelines to follow, the best way to determine what's right for your shop is by trial and error. Only problem is, who has the time to experiment? There are literally hundreds of mesh types out there. Trying to choose the best one can seem like an overwhelming task, but by following some general rules of thumb, you can narrow down your mesh choices to a dozen or so. Then testing each kind won't seem so unmanageable. Specs. It may look like the screen on your back door, but screen printing mesh isn't the same kind of material. The biggest difference is that unlike what keeps bugs out of your house, this type of mesh is made from fabric, not wire. For this industry, monofilament polyester is the most frequently used mesh material. When you start shopping for mesh, you'll also need to determine the weave, count, thread diameter and color that's best for your shop. The type of weave is a no-brainer. When researching mesh, you may come upon the terms plain-weave and twill mesh. The difference between the two is how the threads are woven to create the mesh pattern. Make sure you purchase plain-weave mesh instead of twill mesh, which can cause moirÃ© problems, especially in the high mesh counts. Mesh is often referred to by its mesh count â i.e. 120 mesh, 230 mesh etc. â representing the number of threads per inch. The lower the count, the bigger the mesh openings. Low mesh counts are commonly used with specialty inks such as glitter and puff to allow big ink particles to reach the substrate. High mesh counts are mainly used to print fine details and halftones. Printing through high mesh counts also produces a thin layer of ink on the garment, creating a soft hand. Mesh with a count that falls somewhere in the middle is what most screen printers rely on for their basic, everyday print jobs. The last factor you'll need to decide on is thread diameter. Until a few years ago, terms such as S, T and HD were commonly used to refer to thread diameter. Now, however, a more universal method of referring to the diameter number (in microns) helps keep consistency throughout the industry. While there's no standard thread diameter for each mesh count, there's generally a heavy-duty and a light version for each mesh count. The thinner the thread, the better the detail, but the weaker the fabric. The mesh manufacturer or your local distributor will help you weigh the benefits of each and determine what's right for your individual shop. As you shop for mesh, you're sure to come across different colors. Mesh is typically offered in white and yellow, although orange is available from some manufacturers. During exposure, a white mesh will refract the light similar to the way in which a fiber optic cable works. The light travels down and out, affecting edge definition and quality. This isn't as important with lower mesh counts, but when you're doing a lot of fine detail and halftone work, such slight adjustments will show up in the final print. For this reason, many printers stick with white for lower mesh counts, but use yellow or orange for higher mesh counts. Assess Your Need. Everyone has a preferred type, but there are some general guidelines to go by when you're in the market for mesh. Look around your shop and you'll find clues to what type of mesh counts you should be printing with. The three factors to base your decision on are the type of garments you're printing on, your ink type and the kind of frame system that you use on a regular basis. You'll also need to take into account the type of print jobs you typically do. For most screen printers, T-shirts are the order of the day. They can probably get by using a middle-of-the-road mesh count such as a 110 mesh. However, if you print a lot of athletic numbers and use thick ink to withstand the rough treatment jerseys encounter on the field, you'll probably need a coarser mesh count to allow the thicker ink to reach the material. In such cases, it's not necessary to use a high mesh count. On the other hand, if you do a lot of halftone and fine detail work, you'll need a higher mesh count to retain the minute details in the design. Also let your distributor or manufacturer know what type of frame system you use, as some types require sturdier mesh (and higher thread diameters) to withstand repeated use. In general, most screen printers find that a 110 mesh count will work fine for most jobs. The key word here, though, is "most." Don't rely on 110 mesh for each and every single job. Instead, try out different mesh counts with different print jobs, and keep a record of your production results. Note the mesh type, screen tension, type of ink and whether the print job is multicolor, process color, etc. Also note the garment type: Are you printing on a nylon jacket or a cotton T-shirt? Regularly reviewing your records will help you see a pattern, and decide which mesh tends to work best with a particular ink and design combination. You'll be surprised by the varying results between your "everyday" mesh count and one that's a little higher or lower. If you want to experiment with different mesh counts, start with the coarsest mesh and work your way up to the higher numbers, noting how the print looks with each version. Hit the Trail. Most screen printers have an established local distributor that they order supplies from. Others may prefer to order directly from the manufacturer. To find a list of mesh distributors and manufacturers, check out IMPRESSIONS' 2003 Sourcebook. Decoding the Salesspeak. The world of mesh can get a little technical. Here are some key terms to help you navigate the terminology: Low-elongation (LE) mesh â Most monofilament polyester fabrics are low elongation. The term refers to the mesh's ability to retain its tension level. In the past, stretching screens required tensioning the mesh to say, 25 N/cm, letting it relax to a lower tension then repeating the process. Today's low elongation mesh typically only requires one go-around. Monofilament polyester mesh â Some printers who've been around for years still use multifilament polyester mesh. However, the majority of the industry has switched to monofilament. Although it must be abraded for good emulsion adhesion, monofilament mesh tends to stretch, hold tension and print better than multifilament mesh. Plain-weave mesh â Almost all mesh for the textile printing industry is plain weave. The term refers to the method by which the threads are arranged to create the mesh openings. Warp â The threads that run the length of a roll of mesh. Weft â The threads that run the width of a roll of mesh. The Numbers Game. Mesh is typically ordered by the roll, usually in yards. The price depends on the width of the roll (40", 50", 60" wide, etc.), the mesh count and the color. White mesh is not quite as expensive as yellow or orange mesh, because it doesn't go through the dying and rinse processes. Setup Surprises. Be careful how you open the packaging surrounding your new roll of mesh. Avoid using a knife if possible â mesh can be damaged just by being carelessly opened. Once you've opened your new mesh, store it someplace out of the traffic flow. Try hanging it on a wall like a paper towel roll. Getting it up and off the floor can prevent accidental damage. Keeping the roll visible also allows staff to monitor the supply. Don't wait until the last minute to order mesh â you may not be able to get a new supply in time for that next rush job. Care and Feeding. Once you stretch your screens, what can you do to keep the mesh in top shape? For one thing, be careful with your screens. While coarse mesh can withstand more wear and tear, high mesh counts can be easily damaged when moving them around the shop. To extend the life of your mesh, try stretching your screens so that the squeegee stroke runs parallel to the warp. After several print jobs, who can remember what the mesh count is on a particular screen? To help keep confusion to a minimum, consider writing the mesh count number directly on the screens or frame. Or, color code your stock: white for lower mesh counts, yellow for the more detailed work. So while there's no hard rule for what mesh counts to use, knowing what to look for can help you find what's right for your shop. â CW from Internet
Posted by sharefilters 10 years ago
When I try to print the instructables it comes out all garbled up and not in english, does any one know how I can fix this?
Asked by TravelinRNC 9 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
Love the look of letterpress and want to get an idea of how it gets made? Printer SIMPLESONG has created this quick tour of the process of how they make a card on their machine from 1906. It's awesome to see that the old equipment is still working just fine, making cool new stuff. Link
Posted by fungus amungus 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago