Im trying to make a airsoft gun with a solenoid. but im having trouble making a solenoid can someone please help me on how to make it
Posted by minecraftpotato 4 years ago
Hello sir, Im intrested in solenoids feild and wanna have practical experince in that.can you please tell me how to generate electrical charge by using solenoids and storing that charge in mica capacitors with less voltage rating high storage capability..which also has slow discharge. The time of storing the charge should be high.Hope will guide me. Thankyou. Raghudeep,
Posted by RaghuC 3 years ago
I bought something like this off Ebay: http://g02.a.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1S5xyLpXXXXcGXXXXq6xXFXXX1/New-Fashion-DC-font-b-12V-b-font-2A-Pull-Type-Linear-font-b-Solenoid-b.jpg Turns out it wasnt as powerfull as i need it to be but it has the right amount of travel and is nearly perfect in size... Notice that the body where the coils are is fairly short. What if i made my own? But MUCH longer body, (theres plenty of room in my aplication LENGTH-wise) will it get more powerfull? Can i make it more powerfull by adding more coil? Turns out i have plenty of coil like the one used in my solenoid, i have plastic pipe similar size and i can CNC the central "plunger" rather easy as well. Or make it different shape etc... The solenoid i have has a metal body, does that affect how strong the solenoid is? The coils are wrapped around a plastic tube, the plunger is rather loose inside it and the tube could be thinner. Will thicker plunger and thinner tube improve the power? Im using a 11.1V lipo battery, something you can find in RC-cars. Increasing voltage/amps IS NOT AN OPTION. So, in simplicity, if i make a solenoid like mine, but longer, can it pull greater load than the original or do i need to do something else as well? The actual aplication itself in simplicity is the solenoid pulling certain object back around ~10mm AGAINST a spring, not very powerfull spring might i add. It pulls the object back, then lets go. It will be controlled via a circuit later but right now just a battery and nut-job holding a red button. I just need a solenoid powerfull enough to overcome the spring. The object needs some force to return to its position so putting in a smaller spring is not an option eighter.
Posted by peelo 2 years ago
Ok guys so Basically I have a plastation 2 console in my arcade machine, I want to be able to turn it on via a arcade pushbutton on the outside of my machine. The idea I have is to use a linear push solenoid to act as a finger to press the power button on the front of the ps2 everytime i press that pushbutton........ Is this possible? what type of push solenoid do I need....eg. 12v? size etc.... and can I use a momentary contact pushbutton to power on the solenoid momentarily to do a single press of the playstation 2 power button? Thanks for any help... P.S. I have very little knowledge of robotics or servos and solenoid usage....but I can solder, wire, etc....
Posted by Negativecreep0 8 years ago
Posted by ghen 8 years ago
Hi all, I want to be able to remotely tip a model face over when my friend walks in the room (see attached photo). The face is made of cardboard and spray foam and is mounted on a piece of plywood that is hinged to the table. Should i try to use a remote controlled solenoid to pull this gag off? Any better recommendations? It should be remote but I could probably hide a wire if there is a different and more reliable system. All advice welcome!!!! Thanks, D
Posted by damianzuch 7 years ago
I'm trying to build an electrically controlled coin dispenser (all the coins will be the same type). I have a metal tube -just the right diameter for the coins - mounted vertically, with a piece of wood horizontally at the bottom. There is a gap between them of approx 1mm, just enough for a single coin to be visible. I've been experimenting with using a solenoid to swipe a coin from the bottom. Rather like the image here: https://www.instructables.com/answers/Petty-Coin-Bank-Design-Coin-Dispenser-What-shou/ Solenoids aren't cheap, and I was aware that the weight of the pile of coins (I'd like to be able to hold around 100) would mean it needed to be fairly powerful. In the end I bought some cheapo solenoids from ebay (around $7 each). They are rated 2A and have a hold force of 20N - this seemed a lot more powerful than I could find elsewhere for even 10 times the price. Given how cheap they are, I could even use two in parallel if I still need more power. I'm using coins with a 20mm diameter, but after the solenoids arrived I realised they only had a 10mm stroke - obviously not enough to fully push the coin away. I've tried using the solenoid to pull a lever, but this doesn't seem to work very well. Previously I'd also tried a stepper motor linked up to a disk with a coin-sized hold cut on it, rather like this: https://cdn.instructables.com/F49/GK0I/H703O9VD/F49GK0IH703O9VD.RECTANGLE1.jpg That worked pretty well but was very slow - it would take 3 or 4 seconds to dispense each coin. So, I'm looking for a bit of advice. Would I be better off splashing out on a more expensive solenoid with a 20mm+ stroke? Am I approaching it the wrong way?
Posted by psmith37 4 years ago
I bought a powerful push solenoid for part of a Halloween project, but when it arrived, i found it was a mislabeled pull solenoid... Is there a way to convert one to the other?... otherwise, is there a source of 24vdc push solenoids with a 1/2" threaded mount that will ship overnight?
Posted by gschoppe 9 years ago
Hi, Does anyone know where to find miniature Pneumatic Solenoid Valves in Canada? I have only been able to find rely cheap low quality ones from china or really expensive ones from America. Something in the middle would be great! Thanks
Posted by IanS160 2 years ago
Folks, I recently purchased some inexpensive 110Volts AC solenoid coils from China through eBay (of course.) As I understand solenoids will convert electricity into linear motion. I have been unable to do that. I tried ferrous rods as plungers, they get stuck inside the walls of the coil's cylinder. No ferrous material like aluminum rod did not work at all. Can someone please guide me to make it work. I purchased 110 Volt coil thinking that it will create a stronger field, I don't feel the strengths of magnets to be rather weak. 1. The coil gets hot when energized. Will it burn out if I keep the solenoid energized for 4-5 minutes? 2. Should I go for a lower voltage DC coil? 3. What happens to the dc coil if energized for long time? I would greatly appreciate your comments. Thanks.
Posted by kabira 6 years ago
Hi, im wanting to build somthing simple to control the heater control valve on my fiesta. its a simple solenoid valve at 0v its open(hot) at 12v(14.4v) its closed(cold) the propper control board uses pulses to control the valve, the board has since given up and im left with a very hot car, now i thought a simple way to sort the problem might be to use the 10k pot on the control board with a MOSFET and just vary the voltage going to the valve. will this have the same effect on the valve?
Posted by stevelee10 5 years ago
Is it possible to make a strong magnetic cannon using camera flash units? I've read about some instructables that provide instructions on using several capacitors connected in parallel to provide higher current, but I'm really skeptical about the performance of such a cannon. Can anyone make an instructable and provide video evidence on this??
Posted by Boppo3 7 years ago
Hi all, I need some help finding a suitable solenoid controller, it must be dc powered and operate a latching solenoid for an hour every 24 hours. It must be programmable by the user and operate the latching solenoid instantaneously on and then off separately. It should be relatively cheap as its for a HNC lawn watering project. Regards woody.
Posted by woody1001625 5 years ago
Im trying to build a sollenoid motor like this one http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e3tcdiO2HCc&feature;=channeland i need to no how to prevent sparking on the switch so that im not constantly having to replace it. ive heard somewhere that a capacitor will prevent a spark on the switch but will it? and how big of one will i need. thanks
Posted by budsiskos 9 years ago
I'm trying to make a remote shutter release for my large format lenses. I found a solenoid that will do the trick. It's 12v / 36 ohm push solenoid with 3/8" travel. I prefer to drive this thing with a single AA battery. Is there a simple way to boost 1.5v?
Posted by JonLoder 5 years ago
I'm trying to build a tail of a fake animal, and the tail is kinda long (total length of about 3 feet), I have a 10 pound pull solenoid and I want the tail to kind of do a wave thing, like if you were do a wave with your arms ( not in a group, all by yourself where you hold your hands together, you know what I'm talking about). I know how to do the electronic part of it by sending pulses to the solenoid, but How would I convert that into a believable tail?
Posted by guyfrom7up 10 years ago
Hello. I made my own (extremely basic) remote-controlled door lock a few weeks back. It consists of a couple of solenoids, a remote controlled pass-through plug socket and a shaver adapter (lol) The RF remote turns the plug socket on and the plugged-in shaver adapter carries current to the solenoids which causes them to retract so I can open the doors. I can also use the remote to turn-off the plug socket (thus releasing the solenoids, locking the door if the door is shut) But the problem is that sometimes I forget to turn the system off and the (still-retracted) solenoids get hot after 20-30 minutes, which is an obvious fire hazard. So I'm looking for a timer that will shut-off the system after a few minutes. I've seen plugs on eBay that are designed for hair straighteners and turn connected devices off after a set time, but they all operate at 30mins+ and most require you to push a button to set the countdown timer, which is just completely useless for me. I want a timer that starts as soon as it's powered-up and shuts down the solenoids after a couple of minutes if I forget to shut them down with the remote. Any ideas where I could get such a thing? They're operating (via the shaver adapter) at 4.2VDC if that helps I've included a photo of the RC plug and shaver adapter in case I didn't explain it very well xx
Posted by daaabs 5 years ago
Hey guys, new here. Been looking around for parts for my project for a while now and so far have come up pretty empty handed. I am looking for some parts, or even some information on if anyone has a specific place for parts when it comes to household plumbing. i am trying to source out Variable water valves of the analog variety in 1/2" or 3/4" inlets (preferably in brass) to be controlled by an Arduino. They need to be able to handle a PSI range of 80-100psi and in a N/C state. $0-$30/each preferably Without fully giving away my project idea I basically am looking to switch out manual hot/cold water taps with electronically controlled ones. I need to be able to adjust how open the valves are so I can vary the temperature between the two pipes so that I can get an Arduino to control (with other sensors) and get a water temperature out the drain that is equivalent to bath water. (Hence why I need them to be variable and not just on/off) I have have checked local shops, asked plumbing friends, alibaba, and (of course) Google. And I just can't seem to be able to punch in the proper keywords to find exactly what I am looking for. The closest thing I can find is automatic sink tap solenoids but they require a manual set up and only output at that mix ratio, So I'm hoping that someone has a plumbing supplier to direct me to, I'm pretty much out of ideas. thanks in advance!
Posted by TheMartinDobson 2 years ago
...i'm needing to find a good source for cheap electronically actuated valves (for liquid mainly)...i've found a few solenoid type valves through random google searches...but they're all pretty expensive....i can get just solenoids for under $2 from most places...but they're just the solenoids...and well...i'm not sure how to turn one of those into a valve assembly if anyones got some good sources for either solenoid valves or other electronically actuated valves (i've seen some people use ice maker valves for this...but those things are $20 and up...too rich for my blood)
Posted by crapflinger 11 years ago
This Design Squad Nation animation shows how an electric current flowing in a coil produces a magnetic field. Explains how a solenoid uses a changing magnetic field to move a rod back and forth to do mechanical work, such as opening and closing a valve. For more Design Squad Nation visit our website.
Posted by designsquad 5 years ago
Hi i'm a student, i'm currently doing a project which require me to be able to send the signal from the LCD arduino speedometer to the solenoid, help please!!!!!! P.S if i'm missing something out please post a comment. Thanks
Posted by brian.tan.10004 3 years ago
I am trying to build an air cannon with a circuit that opens the solenoid valve for certain amount of time (0.5 seconds) when I hold down the button, or detects, with a photo gate, when the projective leaves and shuts down the solenoid. So far I have a circuit that will shut down the solenoid when the projectile reaches the end of the barrel, but the solenoid turns back on when the projectile clears the optical sensor(optical switch). This is because I would still be holding down the button. Any tips to get the solenoid to stay turned off? It should probably stay off until I hit a reset switch.
Posted by dogsrcool2me 11 years ago
I'm planning on building an unconventional pipe organ, but I am having trouble finding good cheap air valves that I can buy 60 of to complete an entire manual (keyboard). Normally, a classic organ would use mechanical linkages to a sort of air switchboard, but I have neither the time nor the inclination to build that kind of system (and I want everything to be physically robust and portable, for traveling and abuse during performances. Plus my pipes are very weird ones, and almost all of them would have to be offset anyway, so air tubes would be involved at some point no matter what.) So I'd prefer to have air lines going to each key, with a valve, and then the air lines continue to a much simpler switchboard, so that no pulleys or levers need to be involved. The valves can be electric (keys can easily connect a circuit instead of letting air through), or mechanical (pressing the key opens the valve), and my budget is about 2 dollars or less per valve. Any ideas or links? Homemade plans are welcome too, if you have a method that would be easy to mass produce and not cause leakage. Some of the lower notes may require higher airflow/larger valves too, so a solution that is scalable is preferred.
Posted by smurfsahoy 9 years ago
We are offering an exclusive deal to the INSTRUCTABLES community of 15% off your purchase. This code is good for the rest of 2013! We also have free priority shipping for orders over $20. We love supplying users of the INSTRUCTABLES community with valves because they build some of the coolest projects! We have many sizes available and lots of low-cost options for those small projects. http://www.electricsolenoidvalves.com/ USE CODE: DIY2013
Posted by expressre 4 years ago
I am making a pneumatic cannon with a solenoid valve which is turned on by a switch. However, I am wondering how I could delay the switch. So, when I flick the switch the cannon doesn't instantly fire, instead it would be delayed by maybe a half a second or so for effect. Would I use a 555 timer? I'm really new to this, so could you tell me how I would go about doing this? Thanks Guys
Posted by Make me a SANDWICH 8 years ago
Hey everyone... I've been trying to find a DC push solenoid powered by 12V or less (I think 9V would be best). It needs to be able to push down on point and shoot camera trigger so I'm estimating about a half pound push minimum. I saw some time lapse modifications on the Make: photo pool. I'm going to do the same, but with simplicity in mind :P
Posted by trebuchet03 11 years ago
I have a car door lock 2 wire actuator one wire pushes the solenoid actuator to unlock and the other wire pulls to lock. I want to install these in my car with a momentary push button switch which illuminates when doors are locked and button is pressed once and then turns off when doors are unlocked and same button is pressed again. Should this be a dpdt on off on switch, or spdt on off on? I know with rocker dpdt switches you can set it so reversing polarity will make the actuator pull or push whichever the opposite is. Do they make a push button that I can press to lock, press to unlock.
Posted by graphitej 6 years ago
Hello, I have a question that is integral to the design of a project i'm making. I am trying to make an airsoft gun. For a power source, I am using a 12 gram co2 powerlet. My main problem is the trigger mechanism. Since I want the design to be semiautomatic with no blowback, I decided on an electric trigger to avoid the long trigger pull associated with mechanical triggers. My valve is taken from an airsoft pistol magazine and is pretty small. It is operated by having the rear "button" of the valve hit with a simple hammer, which moves the valve pin and releases gas into the barrel. I want to use a small solenoid in place of the mechanical hammer. When activated, the solenoid's push end would snap forward and hit the valves "button." I was wondering if this is possible on any kind of smaller power supply? It doesn't seem like the valve button needs much more than a tap to dump a good amount of gas. All the projects i have seen like this are fairly large scale, for larger airguns, and they had to use large unreliable power supplies. I would like to keep this whole thing as lightweight as possible. I was thinking that i could use a simple switch or circuit that would just dump some voltage into the solenoid for just a fraction of a second, to fire one shot for each trigger pull. Would this solenoid work? http://www.adafruit.com/products/413 Also, the valve I am using is tiny, about an inch long. The "button" that needs to be tapped to release gas is about 6 mm in diameter. Is there any way to calculate the exact amount of force needed to trigger the valve? Does anyone have any advice for me?
Posted by ilpug 4 years ago
Hi!I have a project this summer where I need to convert a paintball marker and a co2 Airpistol to be fired by the use of a solenoid valve powered by 12v.The project goal is high-speed photography, more or less photographing object being hit by a projectile.What i need is a way to fire these guns precisely by the use of my computer and software, and since I already have plenty of 12 solenoid valves that work with this system I thought my easiest way is to adapt these valve to trigger the guns one way or another.I just purchased a Valken V-TAC SW-1http://www.valken.com/Marker-V-TAC-BLACKHAWK which I plan to use as base (for parts) My reason for getting this particular one was that it was on sale for 50% and seems to be fairly popular as it's based on the Tippmann 98 design.I attached an image of the valve I used with my controller and software (Cognisys Stop shot) now I can probably use any 12v solenoid valve (with the same spec ?) as the one I use now so it doesn't need to be these exact valves. As long as they can be operated by turning on-off power with the same powersource i use to control my current solenoid valves.From my understanding, most airguns use a pin valve, which is hit by a trigger mechanism that is then rearmed by the blowback.What would be the best way to modify an airgun for my needs? Replace the pin valve with a suitable solenoid i can control instead? Or go for a design that uses maybe use a piston and 2-way valve to hit that pin?The gun does not need to be mobile or ergonomic, it will be placed in a rig regardless, however keeping the barrel and keep the Picatinny is preferred to be able to mount marking aids etc. and mount the gun to a tripod.Any tips or suggestions are highly appreciated!Thank you!
Posted by PaulL320 4 months ago
There is a feral cat that I have been feeding, but I am afraid it now depends on me for food. If I go on a vacation I want to be able to feed it dry kibbles, but there are raccoons and other critters that would eat food left out. I have looked at several DIY feeders but they are too complex for my taste. What I would like is something that, when it got a power input from a 24 hour timer, would send power down to some sort of solenoid that I could use to open a box of food. But I would need a series of these in sequence so that the next time the timer sent power it would complete a circuit to the next solenoid the next day and then do it again for up to seven times (so I could be gone for seven days). What sort of device would sequence power to different solenoids to open a series of boxes? Thanks in advance.
Posted by tulsun 7 years ago
I have a spst relay(operating voltage-12v) using for switching the solenoid valve(24VDC and 0.5Amp) which connected through 24 V battery. relay is again connected to the transistor BJT NPN . So please suggest me that which transistor is most suitable.
Posted by jay_3189 5 years ago
I all of a sudden got into beam bots as a project to do when I'm bored, anyways what's the smallest device to get motion? THe device also can't be power hungry. would muscle wire work? how many amps do they take? does anybody know how to wind their own micro solenoids?
Posted by guyfrom7up 10 years ago
I'd like to make a time locking box that is equivalent in function to this: http://www.thekitchensafe.com/ I was wondering if there's anyone out there that would be willing to draw up a circuit for it as electronics is not something that I know how to do. I could do it with arduino but I don't really want to tie up the board that way. I assume it uses solenoids to operate. I'm also open to any other ideas/advice people have. .
Posted by csiebe 3 years ago
I like to make a small propane machine gun simulator, the kind they use in movies. I need to know how to make the firing circuit board, what type of solenoid's I can use & what type of ignition coil & spark plug to ignite the gas. Put it simply, I need a DIY on How to build an oxygen propane machine gun simulator.
Posted by elkaddalek 2 years ago
My head occasionally says "what about mains-beer?". Instead of buying stuff to take home, you have a beer-tap on the sink. Here is how it might work: You build a distribution centre, which may just be storage, but could also be a brewery, and run pipes around a nearby residential area. Each home has a beer-meter like a water-meter which is data-linked to a consumer-unit on a beer-tap on a sink. The distribution-point provides mains-beer under gravity, consumption of which is measured by the meter and data is fed to the consumer-unit. That box displays beer consumption, and via a radio-link informs the distribution-point. Periodically the lines will need to be flushed, here's how that would work: > The centre switches the supply from beer to water, which is coloured with a harmless-dye, and radios the consumer-units which display the message "free beer" whilst playing Happy Hour. Consumers vigorously empty the lines while it's free. When the water hits the meter-unit an optical-sensor calls the consumer-unit to shut off via a solenoid-valve, the consumer-unit reports back to the distribution-centre that water has reached it. After a set period the distribution-centre radios the units which haven't yet reported water to open (solenoid). Any units failing to give an adequate response within a reasonable period are radioed to display a "fault" message and flagged for a service-visit. The distribution-centre then switches supply to cleaning-fluid, and messages all consumer-units to display "cleaning!" and open up (solenoid). Once sufficient flow has gone through each meter, they shut off (solenoid) and radio-back. Then a water-flush follows in a similar way. Once the lines have been cleaned, the supply is switched back beer, the consumer units run until they no longer read "water", plus a bit more to clear dead-volume between meter and tap. Then the consumer-units display "read to dispense fresh beer". Pros: Beer is chilled by the ground in which piping is laid No packaging-costs (cans / bottles / kegs) Less transport costs Drinkers have an almost unlimited supply enabling them to drink more than they might otherwise. No more beer runs when the game runs long or uninvited guests show up (Re-design) Consumer units can display total quantities dispensed, with cost and "don't you think you've had enough?" Cons: Initial infrastructure cost It'll work best with poor quality-beer Well?
Posted by lemonie 8 years ago
I've have an LED problem that I have done extensive reading and troubleshooting on but I can't seem to solve it. I'm running 4 super bright white LEDs (NTE30071) in parallel from a 24v 600mA DC wall wart. The LEDs are 4V, 25mA. I need that wall wart to also run a solenoid. When a button is pressed a relay powers the lights and the solenoid for a few seconds. The problem is my LEDs keep dying. At first I had a 10K ohms 1/4W resistor on each and I lost 3 LEDs. After more study and calculation just replaced them with 1K ohms 1/2W resistors. After a few more hours I lost another. When I removed the 10K ohms resistors they read 1K ohms. And I just tested the one on the 1K ohms resistor that went out and it reads 200 ohms. I know there is something that I just don't get; something basic that highlights my lack of any electronics experience. I appreciate any help you can give, this is just is just wearing me down.
Posted by robotninjasquid 11 years ago
LEDs and I just can get along...In another project I had a solenoid blowing out LEDs. Now this: I have a number of switches hooked up so they trigger an SCR latching circuit to turn on (and keep on) some LEDs. The SCRs are wired in parallel to each other and have a 1K resistor on the gate. Power is applied to the whole circuit via a timer relay (not hooked to the SCRs). The power is a 12v, 200mA wall wart. And the SCRs I'm using are NTE 5465. The LEDs last a while but burn out or go to a weird blinking state (when the switch is depressed) after about 2-3 days. In my previous project I needed a diode to help with the solenoid voltage spike. But I don't think that it is the case for this project since the SCRs aren't inductive. Do LEDs connected to the switch part of a relay need a diode too? The LED package I'm using is purchased from Happ Controls (see hideous grainy picture). It's rated for 12V but they can't give me a mA rating on them. But they say that no inline resistor is required. Any thoughts? I think this is another case of my inexperience causing me to overlook the obvious.
Posted by robotninjasquid 11 years ago
I am looking for a motor to control via Arduino. I know such a thin exists but am not sure exactly what it's called. Basically it is a motor but instead of rotating a shaft it make the shaft go in and out. It doesn't need to apply much pressure just a little tap. I thought it might be called an actuator and is similar to a solenoid I suppose. Any idea where I would find such a thing, what it would be called and how to control via Arduino. Thanks. Phil
Posted by filthyPhil 5 years ago
Ok i have this solenoid. adn i want it so when i hit the power button i want it to start moving for a certin amount of time. then turn off. even if i hold the button for longer then tht set time. FOR EXAMPLE i push the power button and hold it for 2 seconds but i want the noid to act for one second. basically i need consistency how do i do i do this with out a mivcro proseser. is their a timming cuircuit i can adapt to what i need?
Posted by fretmelter 11 years ago
Hi guys, I havebuilt a circuit to detect the swinging of an object using ultrasonic sensor and send signals to the Arduino Duemilanove board which in turn activates the solenoid. The circuit is working fine but I'm using a PING Ultrasonic sensor and I'm having hard time controlling it with the code. Do you have any idea about how to control and make the readings precise for the Sensor? If you want, I can post my code here... Any help is appreciated. Thanks in advance!
Posted by kailash174 6 years ago
Hi All, I'm attempting to make a very small strong electromagnet using permanent rare earth magnets. I want to boost the magnetic field and increase the magnetic force. The magnets are 10mm in length by 5mm in radius. I have 0.4mm2 enamelled solenoid wire for the winding. My questions are, Is it possible to increase the force of a permenent magnet? Will the induced flux into the magnet compile the force or will the EMF have to be greater to see an effect? Will paralleling two windings make the EMF stronger? As the magnets are small I have limited room to wrap windings so is there a more effective method? Any help would be great!
Posted by JimmyM5 3 years ago
Hi guys, im new to the arduino world but im really enjoying getting to know it. i have a small aquaponics setup and i would like to build a arduino controller so i can see whats going on there. such as water temperature, pump, eventually i want to add automatic feeding PH levels. my water pump is a DC 1000 gal and hour pump, i usually leave it running and i would like to be able to run it on and off as needed also i want to divert the same pump thru DC solenoids to water my beds. so any help would be greatly appreciated.
Posted by elilco 3 years ago
I've seen a couple different examples of re-purposing things like wireless doorbell ringers or other devices to activate a door look solenoid but i don't want to carry any more stuff in my pockets.Ii was wondering if it's possible to use a car fob to do the same thing? i would love to map the door lock button on my car fob to unlock my front door and vice versa for the lock button. I know for garage door openers in your car you can hold down the OEM remote and it syncs the signal not sure if there is a way to do this with my car fob.
Posted by SpinningCone 6 years ago
Hi, I want to release droplets of water one-by-one on command, and have been doing some research on how to do that, but I'm wondering if anyone has some other ideas or has heard of a ready-made solution. So far I have come across: ======== -peristaltic pumps with really low flow rates, like the one here http://aptinstruments.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store;_Code=AI∏_Code=SP100VO&Category;_Code= It goes down to 0.09 ml/minute, which should be small enough. I can selectively turn the pump on and off, feeding water to a small tube or dropper end, producing the water drops. These are pretty expensive, the cheapest one I've seen is around $60. ======== -DIY systems like the one pictured here with a solenoid opening and closing a safety pin on a tube. http://www.maggiecarsonromano.com/index.php?/projects/what-made-the-wound-wound-the-thread/ Maybe I could tune the distance of the solenoid so it just opens the pin a tiny amount, and a drop or so is allowed through. ======== -or I could use a more typical water pump, attach it to something with a really small aperture. I could turn the pump on and off. I have a hard time picturing drop-by-drop control with this, I might be able to release very small amounts, and maybe some 2nd reservoir between the motor and dropper could be designed to aid this. ======== Is there a ready-made solution to what I'm trying to do? If I just get a regular water pump what should I look for? Ideally I'd like to get a pump that's as quiet as possible, too. Thanks bros. Josh
Posted by djdune 7 years ago
I am making a miniature carousel for a decoration on my bookshelf. I like to make a kind where the horses go up and down. I got a motorized lazy susan (which already goes around with it´s built in motor) so the basic rotation is there already. What I just need to figure out is how to get the horses go up and down for couple of inches. What electronics should I use for the up and down movement? I´d prefer to use batteries for the source of electricity for these. I was checking solenoid c:s on a electronics website but had hard time finding a slow ones that would work and/or don´t know how to slow them down. Thx!
Posted by carouselman 4 years ago
I am building a biodiesel production system. at different points in the process, a tank will have different liquids in it (sometimes more than 1 type, separated out). for instance, there is a point where glycerol sinks to the bottom, while biodiesel floats on top. what i want to do is drain the glycerol from the bottom of the tank (via electronically controlled solenoid valve), then when a sensor detects a change in material (biodiesel), shuts off that valve and opens another (final product tank). for the life of me, i cannot find a sensor that will do this for less than $100. preferably, i'd like to spend less than $30. i can work with a resistive type or voltage type sensor. i just need to be able to make that distinction of material change... any ideas? THANKS!!!
Posted by samurai1200 9 years ago
So I figured out a really good option for my external rumble pack I want to make, I see these Wii lightguns use X2 AAA batteries and have a micro switch that engages the internal rumble motor on the handle of the gun. The batteries are connected to a microswitch and the switch is pressed after the trigger is physically pulled. How can I convert the AAA batteries power method into an external 12V power connector for continuous use and stronger motor vibrations etc? Like I said this is my first DIY thing. I want the AAA battery method to be converted to a stronger more capable 12V. I plan on buying some strong force feedback motors that need 12V. Eventually adding a small Solenoid too.
Posted by JonathanH248 10 months ago
Seeking any manner of help in making an electronic sequencer for a multi-note doorbell. I restore old door chimes and one particular model from the 1940's-1950's has an electromechanical linear distributor that works as the chime sequencer. It has a limited life expectancy- long since expired- and it defies repair. You can see details of this device by looking up patent number 2245443. The task to be done though is just like that of any more common chime sequencer that uses a rotary distributor. The idea is to replace the electromechanical mess with modern electronics to time the power sequence to three or four 16v or 24v solenoids. Looking for any helpâ¦ guidance, advice, moral support... but mostly hoping to find someone who can design and build a few of these, as I am largely clueless about electronic design.
Posted by knock 11 years ago