Im trying to get a switch to put between 4 wires to simple switch on/off I came up with this diagram i made up anyone know of it
Asked by bubbadamage 5 years ago | last reply 5 years ago
Im trying to get a switch to put between 4 wires to simple switch on/off I came up with this diagram i made up anyone know of it
Asked by bubbadamage 5 years ago | last reply 5 years ago
By double state i meant for if you press once job 1 will be done and if you press second time job2 will be done!
Asked by Nr-Think different 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
5 4pdt switches using only center & 1 outside row of terminals (8 connections per switch). Power (9vdc) in to 2 terminals on center row each switch. When turn any one switch on, want other 4 disconnected from power. Don't want anything programable. Relays ok or an ic. Trying to keep it basic & reasonable. Using total of 10 4pdt switches, half negative side & half positive voltage. Set-up to work on either bank of switches. More switches or 6pole not an option because of expense. I can come off 1 terminal with power to ????? I feel like I'm missing something simple. I hope somebody reading Instructables has a solution. Thanks in advance for your help.
Asked by frogfeet 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
Having trouble with an RF switch, getting low gain as it passes through the switch, I have x-ray the component, and all links are intact, no ESD damage that i can see, Does any one know what could be causing it to have low gain? possibly the RF track in the Switch? HEEELP?!?!!
Posted by SamuelG122 1 year ago
Hey guys, I know hardly anything about electronics so I'm hoping you can help. I have a switched marked 20A12V DC, it was originally for use in a car but I wonder if I can use it on a circuit that uses a 9V battery.
Asked by spyke01 2 years ago | last reply 2 years ago
I have a question for the electronics gurus out there. I have a circuit that I want to activate for a set length of time (I'm using a 555 timer for this) when a door is closed and not operate again until the door is opened and then closed again. I'm an electronics newbie. The one-shot 555 circuits I have seen rely on using a momentary switch, but in this case the switch will remain closed as long as the door is so the circuit will remain active. Are there switches available that will close and open while remaining fully depressed? Or is there an equivalent circuit that will work with an ordinary momentary switch? Two more things: the door is very small so the solution must be small; also the circuit will run on batteries so the solution can't be a power drain. Thanks in advance, I hope this makes sense to someone! Kerry
Posted by number8wire 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
Hey there tech heads, I'm planning a project that will involve LED's (battery powered or wall powered, haven't decided) in a lamp set up. There won't be a lot of led's, maybe 4-6. The real question is I want to put a touch switch in, like this one...http://www.buyhardwaresupplies.com/?t=5&m;=g1&itemNumber;=3007044Is there an alternative? maybe something that is smaller? Will I have to get a transformer and just run wall power to the leds? Lend me a hand, cause this will be a great instructable down the road.
Posted by PathogenLabs 10 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
I am trying to build a small display box that has 2 LEDs (either 3mm or 5mm). One LED lights the displayed item from above, the other from below. I plan to use only 1 LED at a time, so I presume I need an SPDT-Center off micro rocker switch. I have a small model and it provides ample light with 2 CR2032 batteries, however, I'd like to be able to use an AC/DC adapter in place of the batteries. I need help figuring out what parts I need so I don't create anything dangerous. I am confused by the terminology used for the switch...how many amps/volts would I need? Am I correct that I would need a 6v adapter? Can the adapter be wired directly to a battery holder, or can it be SAFELY wired directly to the switch/LEDs? I want to order some stuff, but I don't know what I need! If anyone can provide this info, I would be grateful! Thank you.
Posted by craigo 6 years ago
Hi, I'd like to replace wired lights in our pizza car toppers, which run through windows into cig lighter, or run into hood and attach directly to battery -- with --- LED lights mounted in the car toppers, but wired so on and off switch is mounted on outside of car topper. This way there are no wire outside of the car topper, and drivers could just flip the switch on car topper itself to turn on and off.
Posted by tfurmato 4 years ago | last reply 4 years ago
Lets say I want to switch on a circuit, that runs on one power source, with a different power source. I know this can be done easily with relays with the coil attached to one power source and the remaining pins to another power source. However, I want to know if something like this possible with electronic semiconductor based switches too. I am trying to make a USB based power outage detector for my computer that can help me in safely shutting down my computer automatically when I am not there to manually shut it down. A male-female USB extension cable of a very short length can be stripped and the red wire (+ve) can be split and connected to an electronically controlled switch which will remain closed as long as it receives current from an external power source say a wall adapter. As soon as the power fails, the switch is opened. A simple USB device like a flash-drive can then be connected to the female end of the cable and the male end of the cable to the computer. A simple C program will check at specific time intervals if the flash drive is accessible. As long as there is power, the program will be able to access the flash drive. As soon as there is a power failure, the program will no longer be able to access the flash drive and start the shut down process. Do have any suggestions?
Asked by raftor 4 years ago | last reply 4 years ago
I want to attach my boiler to my alarm panel to an extra zone I have. Problem is my alarm panel wants to see it NC until there's trouble and then wants to see it NO when it's tripped or in alarm. My boiler alarms points are NO until the boiler goes into lock out and then it goes NC. I would like to know if there is a way to add "something" so that i can monitor my boiler and know if it goes into alarm. My boiler is a Weil Mcclain Ultra seris 3 with a U-control system if that helps.
Asked by Stuwho 8 years ago | last reply 3 years ago
Hi guys I am need of some advice and help if possible, I will try and explain as clear as I can. I have a lockup which I have modified to use locking bolts on a motor and I have a swipe card reader and pcb which when swiped it fires the output to power the motor (6v) which works perfect for 6 seconds of the locking bolts going in and out. I am looking for a way so when the locking bolts go to the locked position it hits some kind of limit switch and stops there (which I have done in the past) but then I want to be able to swipe my card to open the bolts and when it gets to he open position it hits another limit switch and stays open until I want to swipe and close the locking bolts. I don't want this to be timed I need this to stop on open and closed position but able to operate when either is pressed, Can this be done in anyway?
Posted by sherpin2000 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
I acquired a CRA from my Dad this last spring and the switch wasn't working right so I ordered a new one. Other than it is plastic it looks the same but the wiring for the new switch isn't like the old. The model of the CRA is TPC-2610B. There is only 4 wires on the old and the new switch. The guy sent me a new wiring diagram for the new switch. It doesn't wire up like my old one exactly. Looking at the back of the switch where the wires go in my old one has 2 red wires at the top close to the trigger and a white wire bottom left and a black wire bottom right. The new switch indicates to wire the black top right close to the trigger and a red one as well on the left and at the bottom below the black wire goes a red wire. Then the white wire would be in the same position as it was on the old switch. I don't know if this is right or not and do not won't to mess up my saw if it isn't. Maybe the old switch wasn't wired right, I don't know and I am certainly no electrician.The switches look the same. Somebody who knows more about this type of stuff might guide me in the right direction please!
Asked by superdooper 3 years ago | last reply 3 years ago
Hi All, I'm about to do a project that involves using Arduino to create an LED 'chase' effect. However I want the 'chase' to be triggered when someone removes an object from the switch. For example the lights would be on and running with a small rock (or similar) holding down a switch which then goes into the off position when the weight is removed. I can create a chase and I can operate the switch but I need help in writing the code that will combine these two features in to one event. Any suggestions, esp help with code will be warmly welcomed. Regards, Frank
Posted by frankhiggins 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
I recently did a project with 4 LED's 3.3V 25mA 2 in each series (2 parallel circuits). I know i wasn't drawing too much from the transformer but my transformer still melted(ish). It was connected to a switch, but i may i had it connected wrong. I searched for shorts first, and couldnt find any. Would this happen becuase i connected the switch incorrectly? I cannot find much information on using AC/DC transformers for LED's....I was looking to save money on batteries for my projects.
Asked by mysterion 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
I am interested in Arduino Controlled SIP & PUFF Switch. And I want to see PDF file. But I can't download it and I enroll in Pro membership. But I can't download it even if in the latest version of Firefox. Please help me
Asked by Changghi Kim 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
I have 4 rooms and each have a light fixture and a switch controlling each of the lights. . The power source from the electrical panel is entering the 1st light fixture and then to each of the other light fixtures. I am using 12/2 with a ground Romex wire. There are only 3 wires in the Romex. One is white, one is black, and one is bare. Please tell me which wires connect to each other in the octagon boxes in the ceiling where the light fixtures are and which wires connect in the respective switch box. Please use wire colors(white, black, bare)when explaining the wires that will connect. No need to explain the "bare wire" connections because I will connect all of them together back to the panel and from there to ground. Thanks for your help! Louisiana bayou backdoor
Posted by themanpan68 3 years ago | last reply 3 years ago
I have some 12 volt LED strips, well I cut and made two and wired them to SPDT on-off-on toggle switch. Then I wired a LED indicator LED to the outside of the box to indicate one was on, not both(don't ask me why,lol). I used a 7812 to get 12 volts cause the walwart was to high, my problem is I get the 12 volts from the side I don't have the indicator light which I know now is taking away from the 12 volts from the other side I have the indicator LED to, my question is, how do I wire it so I don't have that voltage drop? Make the voltage coming in higher? Like 14 volts? That won't hurt the LED srtrips rated for 12 volts will it? I would appreciate an answer, I'm pretty green and limit my projects to only what I know but I want to learn.I have all kinds of components from resistors to caps to transistors. Sicerely Angelo P.S. Sorry about the crude drawing, I used paint I could even use some advise on that in the future.
Asked by angpal59 5 years ago | last reply 5 years ago
I know that if you use a switch or a relay and send more amps through it than rated, it can cause the contacts in the switch to melt. My question is what if you only open and close the switch when the amps being sent is less than the rated max and then send more than the rated amps but don't touch the switch? Will this still cause the contacts to melt/explode the switch? I'm asking because I currently have a circuit that works as described above and the switch still works even after many uses. Is this because I only operate the switch when the amps are less than the rated max for the switch or is the switch going to die soon? Thanks in advance :)
Asked by WilfredS3 2 years ago | last reply 2 years ago
I am stuck. I have two three way switches in a box. I think one went to a un-used outside light, but I can not find the other switch any place. The same it true of the other switch, also a three way. I don't know where it runs to. There are no additional switches in the house and no other lights they could go to that are not already operable by a switch. I have a unused 3 way wire in a box and after trial and error discovered that 3 way wire does not go to these switches, or for that matter any place in the house. Help... Thanks...
Asked by M.G1 2 years ago | last reply 2 years ago
What kind of generally accessible electronics could I find SBDT switches (2) in, without having to go to the store?
Asked by manmelvin 9 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
I have a 5s4p battery pack. The cells are 3.7 nominal voltage lithium ion cells. In a serial configuration it is 18 volts nominal. If I wire it in parallel it is in a 1s20p configuration and 3.7 volts nominal. I had this awesome idea to use switches to change the configuration from 5s4p to 1s20p. I want to do this because then I could charge whole pack with a 3.7 volt charger. Better yet, I would not a balance charger. Once I got to trying to design the switch configuration I was amazed at how complex it would have to be. The only way I can think of at the moment is to use 4 single throw single pull switches to isolate the cells and then use 5 double pole single throw switches to connect all the pos and negs together. Does anyone out there know how to make a circuit which could work with with one circuit board and one switch? It could switch between 18 volts serial to 3.7 volt parallel? Thanks
Asked by Noblenutria 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
Hi, I have a motor (12V DC) that I need to be able to operate both backwards and forwards from two locations. The simple way is to connect it with two DPDT switches with momentary on in each end and off in the middle, i.e. also called (on)-off-(on). The reason for using momentary switches is that there would otherwise be a risk of short circuiting if one of the switches are left in on-position. However, I almost always need the motor to go to preset limits in both directions which takes a couple of minutes (the limits are built-in functions in the motor, so no need to set those). So I was wondering if there was a cheap and easy way of inserting a kind of timer or similar that would only leave the connection on for a couple of minutes only (and yes, there would still be a risk of short circuiting within those two minutes, but it would be unlikely to happen)? Or perhaps there is an even simpler way of doing it? Any ideas would be welcome. In (the likely) case the above is not clear, perhaps this will help: I need it to operate a curtain, i.e. moving the curtain up and down, but I need to be able to do that from two different locations. Preferably it would be good if I could also stop the engine somewhere in the middle - as I would be able to do with a switch simply be releasing it. The best/cheapest/easiest way would, I think, be to have two DPDT switches with a spring or something with a couple of minutes delay, i.e. if it is left in the on-position for more than two minutes it would automatically spring back. But such a thing seems not to exist... or? Would be grateful for any inputs. Erik
Asked by eriktoft 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
Need a Diagram for one of the following: Diagram 1) 6 (5mm) RGB Full Multi color Flashing LED (Forward Voltage: 3.2-3.4v) Voltage 9-12V (Less the better, but no more than 12) 1 or 6 switches to turn on/off for each LED separately List any other require parts (w/ detail, ex. "1k ohm" Resistor) Diagram 2) Same as number one 1 solar panel (9V 1.5W, output current 167 mA) or 1-2 Solar panel, also have 2 solar panel (4.5V 0.5W, output current is 112mA) List any other require parts(w/ detail, ex. "1k ohm" Resistor)
Asked by vinchenzo2611 5 years ago | last reply 5 years ago
Okay, I'm making a little LED project and I'd like help on these following questions: On most switches there are three little prongs, which ones do I connect to which wires? Do I need a resistor for a simple, battery powered, LED circuit, with 16 LEDs? If so, what kind of battery do I need and what kind of resistor? Can LEDs shine through a thin layer (3-5 mm) of balsa wood? Thanks! -popewill
Asked by popewill 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
I have a remote control hub that doesnt have enought juice to power all of the nessisary servos. does anyone have any way to maybe rig a solenoid or something like it to connect a power supply and a servo.
Asked by garagegenius 6 years ago
I'm working on a project where I have a glass jar, and I want a circuit to close when I OPEN the glass. Need ideas on how I can solve that in clever ways...? I know how to program it in flash, but my current project is all hardware based, and I don't want to use a computer to solve it. I've tried using a photo cell, but for some reason it won't trigger on the circuit I'm circuitbending. I've used a photocell on another bend, and it worked there, but on this project I'm circuitbending one of those greeting cards where you can record your own voice, and it seems that it needs a good solid connection before it will trigger. Would greatly appreciate all tips. Addition: I need a solution that takes as little space as possible.
Asked by mskogly 9 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
Trying to figure out the wiring to operate 1 actuator using 2 on/on switches. Anyone care to help out? Actuator has built in limit switches. 24" stroke. It will open all the way and door will be closed and then open all the way when the switch is triggered on either end. Same as a hallway light that operates from 2 location in the house. The tricky part I've found is getting relays and switches to reverse polarity. I know how to wire a dpdt switch to move forward and backward on the actuator. But with another switch to do this I've been told I need relays. I don't understand the circuitry and tech talk, so please bare with me. Pictures say a lot, so if you can add photos or links that helps most.
Asked by nowrydell 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
We have a several pair of carbon fibers pads, but what happens now all of them have a USB plugs that don;t fit with the receptive Jack Plug in 5 Volts Battery This batteries with the pads work to heat blanquet. We need help, or more than this a teacher! who tell us how to take out these USB plugs, how to join their cbables, and the how to add a plug in 5 Volts Jack. If is not clear please let me know Maria
Posted by Maria SoledadD 1 year ago | last reply 1 year ago
Like is there anything non-material, like a magnetic field which when brought near a wire or by any other way stops or allows the electric flow through it? And I am not talking about a changing magnetic field producing a current in the wire.
Asked by Wisaam 5 years ago | last reply 5 years ago
Hello again! My new buttons came in! They are exactly what I was looking for, but now I have another problem... It has 4 contacts (2+, 2-) and I'm having a heck of a time figuring out how to wire them to my battery pack. You can see what I have at this link: http://lupusalpha.tripod.com/quandaries.html Can anyone tell me how to hook these up?
Asked by Graceria 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
So here is my challenge. I play an ultimate frisbee pickup game every week (Tuesday at the Harvard commons in Cambridge, MA, at 7PM stop by and play!). We have a great LED frisbee that extends the games into the night, but once it gets really dark telling teams apart becomes challenging. I hit upon the idea of making LED 'throwies' for one's body. Take a little 3v watch battery, tape the leads of the LED on with some electrical tape, and then use a safety pin clip it onto to clothing, and blamo!, you have an LED pin that makes playing ultimate frisbee in the dark surprisingly easy, fun, and colorful. There are some problems with this. First, it takes a little time to wire up the LEDs. It is a fun group activity to start with, but this is a pickup game so people wander in all of the time to play, and each time this happens someone has to run off to make some more LED pins. It would be awesome if I just had a bag of them ready to go. Second, I have to pull the pins apart after each game. Third, my red and yellow LEDs (blue and green are fine) really need a resistor as they tend to go dull. Finally, I would really like to make these guys a little more robust by fixing the leads on more solidly. So, with that said, here are some things I could use some ideas on. 1) Cheap toggles. I needs them. I would be willing to toss a few more dollars at these pins if I didn't have to tear them apart each time. Toggle switches would mean I wouldn't have to tear out the battery each time. I am having a really hard time finding cheap small toggles on the inter-tubes. Does anyone know of some good places to look? There is also the added challenge of finding a way to attach the toggle in a mildly robust manner. 2) I am looking to rig these pins up into something a little more sturdy. I was pondering soldering the LEDs to the 3v coin batteries I am using and then super gluing the solder. Is this workable, or should I just break down and buy some battery holders? If battery holders are the answer, again, does anyone know of a cheap place to look? Finally, does anyone have any other interesting suggestions? I am willing to drop a little money into the project, but I really don't want to be spending 5 dollars per pin. In my ideal world my final product would look like an LED, a battery, and switch mounted on a safety pin in such a manner that if someone sticks it to their shirt and rolls into the ground it doesn't break. Getting all of those things to come together in an even vaguely cost effective manner is proving to be a bit of a challenge. Any ideas would be great!
Posted by JonnyProton 9 years ago
I'm currently working on a project similar to slchorne's "handheld solar power supply" instructable and have run into a little trouble. The device will use a circuit board/LED light from a solar yard light and an SPST Soft Push button switch (with some new wires of course) as a flashlight and I'm not sure how I would connect the switch with the circuit board and the battery pack so that it functions correctly. Would I solder both ends of the switch wires to the circuit board or would I solder one end of the circuit board and one end of the switch wires to the battery pack?
Asked by BucketBasher 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
So we have an electronic gate that uses a push button momentary switch for opening and closing. The button itself is not unlike a doorbell or garage door button. I've been trying to figure out a way to remotely control this button from the web via a smartphone. I've looked around and found all number of light switches and power outlets that can be web controlled, but can't seem to locate a momentary relay for my purposes. I was hoping to be able to patch into or replace the existing button with something that would give me the capability, but without breaking the bank. Is there a momentary relay out there that can easily be connected to my home network? Thanks.
Asked by A.J.B. 5 years ago | last reply 5 years ago
I'm going to make a custom guitar hero controller for myself, and i want to mod the buttons so that they don't requite so much travel, and they're more.. snappy, if you get what I'm saying. The switches in mice are perfect, but I don't have enough mice to dissect to get enough buttons. I also found that some of the switches are DPDT, which are perfect for throwing in some LEDs... Anyways, my question is where can I get some DPDT switches from mice, without bulk ordering on ebay? And are there specific names for those switches?
Posted by cvxdes 10 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
i have a project im working on, and i need to put(or make) some kind of buttons on the finger tips of a glove. nothing complicated, just basic switches that will complete a circuit when i touch stuff. any ideas?
Asked by thealeks 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
HI, I would like to know if there is a solenoid that will retract when power in one direction is applied to it and when the current is reversed, the solenoid sticks out again. THANX VERY MUCH IN ADVANCE, i look forward to reading your answer. Ahmad
Asked by in06khattab 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
Circuits and semiconductors and transistors and capacitors all confuse and intimidate me so... :-\ I want to know how to turn a walkie-talkie into a communication jammer like in Fringe or create an X-ray machine from an old tube TV like in Burn Notice. Ultimately I'd like to become an FBI agent or CIA spy, but I've gotta start somewhere, so asking how to do electrical engineering on Instrutables is the first place to start I'd imagine.
Asked by Pompom 9 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
Yeah, like, I want to take a keyboard, and turn the buttons into switches, oh yeah and I want it to be out of the keyboard, like in a box or something, but more like an aircraft than just a keyboard, you know what I'm saying? like a cockpit, but from a keyboard yeah you know what I mean
Asked by CybergothiChe 9 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
Basically I want to make a toggle switch to trigger a circuit from on or off. its hard to explain but when the switch is in the on position it triggers a circuit momentarily. When I switch the switch off i need it to trigger the circuit again. Its for a 4 wheel drive module for my bronco and its momentary push buttons that I want t o convert to a toggle switch.
Asked by catsnw 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
Asked by srinu.rao464 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
i found a code for a pic16f28A it's simple: main: lablel0: switch off 3 switch on 0 pause 1000 switch on 1 switch off 0 pause 1000 switch on 2 switch off 1 pause 1000 switch on 3 switch off 2 goto label0
Asked by top.boy 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago