single speed scooter throttle conversion?

I have a scooter controller that requires a three wire throttle. could i just splice two of the three wires together to make it a single speed? the three wires are labled as: voltage ground speed adjusting signal

Posted by budsiskos 9 years ago


Http:// Brolsma is in this video, and diet coke with Mentos, the fresh maker.

Posted by Yerboogieman 9 years ago

ISP's an their sneaky ways of limiting your internet to a crawl

With more and more restiction hitting internet users I though I write a bit about the methods used to make our life harder than necessary. First example: Heavy gamer... Some people love their Xbox or PC for only one reason, online gaming. Too bad when all of a sudden your ping rates go sky high or the chat has a lag making good conversations during the game impossible. Second example: Streaming media... People like to watch what they want and when they want. Online streaming is a good way to get the latest trailers, catch up with your favourite shows or just to kill some time. Too bad when you notice the connection takes forever and that you can only watch in low quality without running into buffer problems. Last but not least P2P.... Although used for mainly illegal stuff, P2P is still not dead. A lot of software and even collections of documents are shared by the use of various P2P networks. Torrents are the most common ones but it really does not matter once your ISP has hit you hard. So what have all these in common when we speak about ISP troubles you might wonder? Well, firstly they cause a lot of traffic and secondly a large number of connections at the same time. Why would my ISP limit me? 1. You are using your internet for illegal downloads. Although in many cases the ISP won't be able to tell what you are downloading, but they can clearly see the volume of the downloads and that a P2P system is used. Does not take a genius to realise several GB a week on a constant base can't be all legal. 2. Cheap ISP A lot of our providers rent their bandwidth from another provider. This way they can provide cheaper prices but have to make sure not go over the allowance as it would could dearly. A good way of preventing this is to limit speed during so called peak hours - basically whenever a lot of people are online. 3. Your area.... Let's say you are living in a densly populated area. There you often have a single exchange for all internet and phone users. Although the numbers of possible users can be increased by adding more hardware, the bottleneck is the feed to this exchange. As they are owned by a single provider and every other ISP has to pay for the use it becomes clear that this provider will have the best speeds and traffic allowances for the people connected. In return the other ISP(s) will be reduced in speed and sometimes even the type of connection possible, for example blocking all P2P traffic completely. How do I find out what is happening to me? This is indeed a hard one! No ISP will tell you "Yes, we limited you to xxxx and these services are not working on your connection: ...." Their fineprint states you have internet and Email, depending where you are maybe online TV services. But this is only true for standard ports and protocols used! So for your favorite online game it might be possible to download the latest update in the GB range within minutes but still encounter a massive lag during the play sessions. Similar story for low speeds. It is common practise to prioritise traffic to local speed testing servers. This means no matter what "problem" you might have all test will give positive results. So you might be able to get high speeds in your tests but watching a Youtube video can mean to first buffer the entire video before you can watch it. You ISP won't support any requests as long as common speed tests work fine for you. A sure way of testing is to download a Linux distribution from a remote server. How long does it take to download? Now do the same using a P2P download of the same distribution. Did it take much longer or did you have problems connecting to peers? If so you are limited by your ISP. Be aware that this might be true for only one type of P2P network, while others are uneffected. For games check your Ping times against ping times done manual against a known server, for example Google. If they are close all is good, if the game ping is much higher (often in the thausands compared to around 300ms max) you are sucked into limitations. Ok, I am fairly sure I am limited by my ISP, is there anything I can do? If you mainly use the internet for illegal downloads you might want to consider going the legal way. For all others, check below. Main reasons for limits put on your account or connection are congestion (nothing you can do about except trying the ISP that owns your phone network and to pay more - and of course the amount of connections you make. Let me give you an example: Downloading a huge file from a server usually needs a single connection on port80. Doing the same using P2P services requires a lot of simultanious connections to many servers/PC's around the world. Only with enough, fast connections your download will progress at good speeds. You ISP can see the number of connections and cut them at a limit or completely disable the protocol used for the download. The result is crawling speeds for the download and you only see a few peers available. Multiplayer games often use several ports for the traffic, game status, chat, graphic updates like location of other players and so on. So if you play in a world with 8 of your friends and fight against 200 online players all these infos has to get to your system. Having a few kids all enjoying different online sessions at the same time certainly does not help either. ;) Unless you are permanently limited there are a few options to make things better: 1. Limit yourself to the off-peak times for big downloads. 2. Try to avoid multiple game sessions and downloads from a single internet connection, e.g: let the kids play with one console at a time. 3. Change the ports used by your program, sometimes the standard ports are used by everyone else around, changing them gives the ISP the option to spread the load. 4. Last and best option: Limit the amount of allowed connections. For games this is not always possible but for other services it is. Imagine your P2P program using 300 download sources at the same time. Every one has the actual data and a lot of other informations to transmit while your system has to send the receiving info to every single one. On top of all that you have the informations needed to find new peers, coordinate the parts and so on. You can limit those in the settings of the program. So instead of allowing 500 or more connections at the same time go down to 100 or less. Instead of allowing 100 half open connections (used to negotiate the download for a new peer) go down to 20. And of course limiting your own upload and the connections used for it does help a lot. Myths and alternatives.... You might have heard the things like "protocol obfuscation", "port hoppers" and similar exist, same for the "Tor" network and maybe even the "usenet". The myth behind all of them is the claim that oyur ISP won't actually see what you do and what your download. On top of that you have so called "VPN' services. Although some of the services will help you to overcome certain limits it does not change the fact that you ISP still can see your up- download volume and the number of connections in use. And trust me, they are not dumb either, so they will know anyway that you mostly use the internet for illegal downloads. After all, what reasons could you have to use encrypted services or to direct your traffic over VPN networks? Of course being in China or similar countries is a different story due to gouvernment restictions on the internet. As long as you do direct download with only a hand full of connections you should be fine, for everything else it comes down to luck. Protocol obfuscation worked for a few months until ISP's fixed it. The usenet might be an alternative but not for everyone. Even the famous Tor network or dedicated VPN services won't help you once your ISP got you flagged. The will simply limit everything besides standard protocols and ports, so you can use you Email and surf the net, even download directly for a server but everything else might be crippled. As I said earlier there is no way for the user to truely check what limits he has or what ports and protocols might be affected - you ISP won't tell you either. Before you get trapped into a new contract because your ISP is no good turn off all P2P and gaming for a day or two. Try again at night times after a reset of your modem/router. Quite often you will see it works just fine for a while. If so you can limit yourself, use off-peak times and so on. Sometimes it also helps to simply limit the download speed itself. Of course the best alternative is not to use illegal downloads and to seek local content for game servers or online video.

Posted by Downunder35m 3 years ago

Throttle Guage Sensor

Im trying to figure out how to guage how much throttle im applieing in my car. I want to have a set of lights or even just an analog guage that tells me for example that i am using 25% of my throttle. I was thinking of putting some sort of pressure switch under the gas pedal, but Im stuck on where to start. Thanks, Newman

Posted by Newman180 10 years ago

35pounds thrust thermojet

Hello everybody here iam going to show you the 10% throttle of the engine and 40% throttle of the engine. At 100% throttle 40pounds thrust is got. But unfortunately my LPG valve has got some restrictions so iam unable to show you guys the peak thrust. engine at 10% throttle engine at 40% throttle

Posted by ganuganu 6 years ago


I've bought 3 ebikes one a Raleigh select,p/assist, one a throttle type, but wires on 1of the other bikes I've bought,the wires that lead into hubmotor are cut they don't seem to connect via a hole in wheel axle/spindle,so need help please,also the p/assist Raleigh can it be converted to throttle powered, as its a very old ebike with a sanyo hubmotor? Thanks...

Posted by AlanW131 5 weeks ago

Zero to 300mph in 30 seconds. On two wheels.

Meet the world's fastest ever road vehicle built to reach an astonishing top speed of 340mph.The Acabion GTBO uses jet fighter technology and aerodynamics to reach its extraordinary speed propelled by a state-of-the-art turbo-charged engine.Its designers revealed it could reach 300mph in a blistering 30 seconds - substantially quicker than the rival Bugatti Veyron which takes 55 seconds to reach its top speed of 250mph.Good grief, that would rattle your teeth!The article implies that an electric version is in the pipeline as well.Daily Mail story750 hp and 700 lbs vehicle weight result in more than 2100 hp per ton. They boost the jet-like GTBO to jet-fighter punch and to new dimensions of both efficiency and speed.V-max 340 mph at half throttle, governor limited.0 to 300 mph in less than 30 sec.Economic theories tell us, that you can not maximize effect and minimize effort at the same time. The Acabion GTBO proves the opposite. It minimizes weight and maximizes power and aerodynamic efficiency. The effects are just out of this world.100 mph at 1.7% throttle and 100 miles per gallon.150 mph at 4.3% throttle and 62 miles per gallon.250 mph at 17% throttle and 25 miles per gallon.Acabion websiteMore photos at Jalopnik

Posted by Kiteman 10 years ago

Using a hall effect sensor with TL494 pulse width modulator.

I have an electric billy cart with a dead controller board. I constructed the kit circuit below to replace the dead board and it works well enough for the job except for one small problem. The throttle on the billy cart utilizes a hall effect device and not a pot. The billy cart also has a handbrake with a switch that closes when applied. I use this with a resistor to discharge C2 and pull pin 4 (inhibit) high. This ensures a gentle start (as the capacitor slowly charges through the 100k resistor) if the brake is released with the throttle advanced. The output range of the throttle is 950 mV to 4.1 V if VREF (5V) is used as the supply. (I'm dropping it in in place of the pot.) 4.1 V is sufficient to achieve the maximum 90% duty cycle of the chip, but 950 mV leaves me with a minimum duty cycle of about 21%, and of course a motor that won't stop. Will changing the divider ratios 20k/2k2 & 47k/47k be sufficient to get me zero speed or am I going to have to do something more exotic? Thanks in advance.

Posted by Rasputin182 10 years ago

Currie Electic Bike conversion kit

I inherited a Currie E Bike conversion kit which included the rear wheel and drive motor assembly and battery pack/charger combo. It did not include the wiring harness or throttle. I did find a generic throttle/control on ebay. The kit did not have the rack that I've seen in other pictures, so I will make my own. Does anyone know enough about these to know the wiring layout or any other parts that are needed? I have a bike already to convert. I can solder and do most of my own bike repairs and some fabrication, so this doesn't appear above my usual skill level. Thanks in advance for any help. Jim

Posted by jimmilt 6 years ago

KIDS BOAT, Looking for Ideas, Please Help!!!!

Ok, So I am a tinkerer Last month we we're at the Lake and my 5 YearOld and my 4 YearOld decided that they want a BOAT..  So being the Father that I am, Became flooded with giving MY kids a boat unlike anyone's. SO Began the Brain Storm. Picked up a Cheap "BROKEN" Trolling motor, and a Toy Sandpit from a friend.. SANDPIT holds water, Must hold OUT water as well... Want to build small "Transom" out of PVC fittings that will fit snugly in Aft. Also would like to fashion a way to use the Steering wheel, that I don't have yet... to Either turn the Motor or Manipulate a Rudder of some Sort.. Also a Throttle set up unfortionitely to turn the throttle into the forward position it turns Clockwise.. not counter clockwise, which would allow me to mount it somehow on the right side, Like a Real boats Throttle control.. have some Thick HDPE Sheeting, that molds fairly well when heated.. and Also the Trolling motor... Pictures Included.. Please ANY Ideas would be Greatly Appreciated.. My Son and Daughter want a TUGBOAT, which thankfully this lends itself to PERFECTLY!!!!

Posted by exerp 7 years ago

how to combine 2 Arduino codes together ?

Hello, I have a question. I need to combine my code for my Arduino project. I'm using a Arduino micro board .  The 2 codes are maxsonar and another is a flying drones coding. I'm lost and don't know how to combine the both of them as the maxsonar code will overwrite the flying drones code causing it unable to fly. Maxsonar code const int anPin1 = 0; const int anPin2 = 1; int triggerPin1 = 13; long distance1, distance2, cm1 ,cm2; void setup() {   Serial.begin(9600);  // sets the serial port to 9600   pinMode(triggerPin1, OUTPUT);   pinMode(A5, OUTPUT);   pinMode(A11, OUTPUT); } void start_sensor(){   digitalWrite(triggerPin1,HIGH);   delay(1);   digitalWrite(triggerPin1,LOW); } void Fading()//led1 { if (distance1 == 9) {    analogWrite(A5,25.5);     delay(10); } else if (distance1 == 8) {    analogWrite(A5,76.5);     delay(10); } else if( distance1 == 7) {    analogWrite(A5,153);     delay(10); } else if(distance1 == 6) {    analogWrite(A5,255);     delay(10); }   }   void Fading2()//led1 {   if (distance2 == 9) {    analogWrite(A11,25.5);     delay(10); } else if (distance2 == 8) {    analogWrite(A11,76.5);     delay(10); } else if( distance2 == 7) {    analogWrite(A11,153);     delay(10); } else if(distance2 == 6 ) {    analogWrite(A11,255);     delay(10); }   }   void read_sensors(){   /*   Scale factor is (Vcc/512) per inch. A 5V supply yields ~9.8mV/in   Arduino analog pin goes from 0 to 1024, so the value has to be divided by 2 to get the actual inches   */   distance1 = analogRead(anPin1)/2;   distance2 = analogRead(anPin2)/2; } void count_in_cm() {   cm1 = distance1 * 2.54;   cm2 = distance2 * 2.54; } void print_all() {     if( distance1 <10 && distance2 >=10 )   {   Fading();   analogWrite(A11,0);   Serial.print("Sensor1: Warning");   Serial.print(" ");   Serial.print(" ");   Serial.print("S2");   Serial.print(" ");   Serial.print(distance2);                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              Serial.print("in");   Serial.print(" ");   Serial.print(" ");   Serial.print(cm2);   Serial.print("cm");   Serial.println();   delay(700);     }   else if(distance1 >= 10 && distance2 < 10)   {   Fading2();   analogWrite(A5,0);   Serial.print("S1");   Serial.print(" ");   Serial.print(distance1);   Serial.print("in");   Serial.print(" ");   Serial.print(" ");   Serial.print(cm1);   Serial.print("cm");   Serial.print(" ");   Serial.print(" ");   Serial.print("Sensor2: Warning");   Serial.println();   delay(700);   }   else if (distance1 < 10 && distance2 < 10)   {     Fading();     Fading2();     Serial.print("Sensor1: Warning");     Serial.print("  ");     Serial.print("Sensor2: Warning");     Serial.println();     delay(700);      }   else   {   analogWrite(A11,0);   analogWrite(A5,0);   Serial.print("S1");   Serial.print(" ");   Serial.print(distance1);   Serial.print("in");   Serial.print(" ");   Serial.print(" ");   Serial.print(cm1);   Serial.print("cm");   Serial.print(" ");   Serial.print(" ");    Serial.print("S2");   Serial.print(" ");   Serial.print(distance2);   Serial.print("in");   Serial.print(" ");   Serial.print(" ");   Serial.print(cm2);   Serial.print("cm");   Serial.println();   delay(700);   } } void loop() {   start_sensor();   read_sensors();   count_in_cm();   print_all();   delay(200); //This is the equivant of the amount of sensors times 50.  If you changed this to 5 sensors the delay would be 250. } flying drone code #include #include // channel declaration Servo channel1; // throttle Servo channel2; // yaw Servo channel3; // pitch Servo channel4; // roll Servo channel5; // ball drop servo // PWM freq setting, should it be 62.33Hz? const int PWMConst = 20022;//50HZ // global variables byte incomingByte, incomingByteUSB; byte rcBuffer[32], usbBuffer[12]; int i = 0, j = 0, STATE = 1; int Flag = 0, usbFlag = 0; unsigned int thr_16int = 0, yaw_16int = 0, pit_16int = 0, rol_16int = 0, gear_16int = 0; unsigned int thr_16int_usb = 0, yaw_16int_usb = 0, pit_16int_usb = 0, rol_16int_usb = 0; float throttle = 1000, roll = 1500, pitch = 1500, yaw = 1500; int gear = 1500; float currT, prevT = 0, _flagHover, throFlag; // functions declaration void extract_RC_cmd(void); void extract_USB_cmd(void); void translate_RC_cmd(void); void translate_USB_cmd(void); void RC_Neutral(void); void reset_usb(void); void reset_rc(void); void hover(void); void sonar(void); void setup() {   // setting registers   TCCR1A = _BV(COM1A1) | _BV(COM1B1);   TCCR1B = _BV(WGM13) | _BV(CS11);   ICR1 = PWMConst;   // set PWM I/O ports   channel1.attach(6);    // throttle   channel2.attach(9);    // yaw   channel3.attach(5);    // pitch   channel4.attach(10);    // roll   channel5.attach(11);   // fail safe-attit   //init usb buffer   usbBuffer[0] = 0x03;   usbBuffer[1] = 0xE8;   usbBuffer[2] = 0x0D;   usbBuffer[3] = 0xAC;   usbBuffer[4] = 0x15;   usbBuffer[5] = 0x7C;   usbBuffer[6] = 0x1D;   usbBuffer[7] = 0x4C;   reset_rc();   reset_usb();   Serial1.begin(115200);   // rc Rx data in   Serial.begin(115200);     // USB } void loop() {   // accept serial data from computer   if (Serial.available() > 0)   {     incomingByteUSB =;     if (incomingByteUSB >= 0x03 && incomingByteUSB <= 0x07)     {       usbFlag = 1;     }     if (usbFlag == 1)     {       usbBuffer[j] = incomingByteUSB;       j++;       if (j == 12)       {         usbFlag = 0;         j = 0;         extract_USB_cmd();       }     }   }   // accepte serial data from RC   if (Serial1.available() > 0)   {     incomingByte =;     if (incomingByte >= 0x80 && incomingByte <= 0x87)     {       Flag = 1;     }     if (Flag == 1)     {       rcBuffer[i] = incomingByte;       i++;       if (i == 32)       {         Flag = 0;         i = 0;         extract_RC_cmd();       }     }     // Serial.print(rcBuffer[i]);   }   // STATE MACHINE   switch (STATE)   {     case 1:       translate_USB_cmd();       reset_rc();       //Serial.print();       break;     case 2:       translate_RC_cmd();       reset_usb();       //Serial.print('R');       break;     case 3:       landing();       break;     default:       RC_Neutral();       break;   }     // output PWM   channel1.write(throttle);   channel2.write(yaw);   channel3.write(pitch);   channel4.write(roll);   channel5.write(gear); } // local functions void extract_RC_cmd() {   if (rcBuffer[0] >= 0x80 && rcBuffer[0] <= 0x87) // double check throttle range   {     thr_16int = rcBuffer[0] << 8 | rcBuffer[1]; // 16 bit throttle     // Serial.print(thr_16int);   }   if (rcBuffer[4] >= 0x19 && rcBuffer[4] <= 0x1E) // double check yaw range   {     yaw_16int = rcBuffer[4] << 8 | rcBuffer[5]; // 16 bit yaw     //Serial.print(yaw_16int);   }   if (rcBuffer[16] >= 0x09 && rcBuffer[16] <= 0x0E) // double check yaw range   {     rol_16int = rcBuffer[16] << 8 | rcBuffer[17]; // 16 bit yaw     //Serial.print(rol_16int);   }   if (rcBuffer[20] >= 0x11 && rcBuffer[20] <= 0x16) // double check yaw range   {     pit_16int = rcBuffer[20] << 8 | rcBuffer[21]; // 16 bit yaw     //Serial.print(pit_16int);   }   if (rcBuffer[22] >= 0x21 && rcBuffer[22] <= 0x26) // double check gear range   {     gear_16int = rcBuffer[22] << 8 | rcBuffer[23]; // 16 bit pitch     //Serial.print(pit_16int);   }   // state   if (rcBuffer[24] == 0x37 && rcBuffer[25] == 0xE0)    // Fmode SW state 1: Auto   {     STATE = 1;   }   else if (rcBuffer[24] == 0x34 && rcBuffer[25] == 0x00) // Fmode SW state 2: Manual   {     STATE = 2;   }   else if (rcBuffer[24] == 0x31 && rcBuffer[25] == 0xB4) // Fmode SW state 3: Emergency landing   {     STATE = 3;   } } void extract_USB_cmd(void) {   if (usbBuffer[0] >= 0x03 && usbBuffer[0] <= 0x07) // double check throttle range   {     thr_16int_usb = usbBuffer[0] << 8 | usbBuffer[1]; // 16 bit throttle   }   if (usbBuffer[2] >= 0x0B && usbBuffer[2] <= 0x0F) // double check yaw range   {     yaw_16int_usb = usbBuffer[2] << 8 | usbBuffer[3]; // 16 bit yaw   }   if (usbBuffer[4] >= 0x13 && usbBuffer[4] <= 0x17) // double check pit range   {     pit_16int_usb = usbBuffer[4] << 8 | usbBuffer[5]; // 16 bit pitch   }   if (usbBuffer[6] >= 0x1B && usbBuffer[6] <= 0x1F) // double check rol range   {     rol_16int_usb = usbBuffer[6] << 8 | usbBuffer[7]; // 16 bit role   }   // state   if (usbBuffer[10] == 0x2A && usbBuffer[11] == 0xF8)   {     //state = 1; // auto   }   else if (usbBuffer[10] == 0x2C && usbBuffer[11] == 0xEC)   {     STATE = 3; // emergency landing   }   else if (usbBuffer[10] == 0x2E && usbBuffer[11] == 0xE0)   {     STATE = 0; // default rc neutral   } } void translate_RC_cmd(void) {   throttle = (thr_16int - 30752 ) / 2.016;   yaw   = (9243 - yaw_16int) / 1.382;   pitch = (pit_16int - 3047) / 1.378;   roll  = (5129 - rol_16int) / 1.373;   gear  = (gear_16int - 7506) / 1.165;   throttle = min(2000, max(1000, throttle));   yaw      = min(2000, max(1000, yaw));   pitch    = min(2000, max(1000, pitch));   roll     = min(2000, max(1000, roll));   gear     = min(2000, max(1000, gear)); } void translate_USB_cmd(void) {   throttle = thr_16int_usb;   yaw = yaw_16int_usb - 2000;   pitch = pit_16int_usb - 4000;   roll =  rol_16int_usb - 6000;   //Serial.print(thr_16int_usb);   throttle = min(2000, max(1000, throttle));   yaw      = min(2000, max(1000, yaw));   pitch    = min(2000, max(1000, pitch));   roll     = min(2000, max(1000, roll)); } void RC_Neutral(void) {   throttle = 1000;   yaw = 1500;   pitch = 1500;   roll = 1500; } void landing(void) {   throttle = throttle - 1;   if (throttle <= 1000) throttle = 1000;   yaw = 1500;   pitch = 1500;   roll = 1500; } void reset_usb(void) {   thr_16int_usb = 1000;   yaw_16int_usb = 3500;   pit_16int_usb = 5500;   rol_16int_usb = 7500; } void reset_rc(void) {   thr_16int = 0x8000;   yaw_16int = 0x1C03;   pit_16int = 0x13FD;   rol_16int = 0x0C07; }

Posted by singno123 3 years ago

No, that doesnt look right... Potentiometer Expert Needed!

Hi All! My brother and I are building an e-bike and we THINK we know how to attach a throttle, but it might blow up the battery... if worse comes to worse then we have a toggle button we can install but it's not really ideal. I've attached a circuit diagram below of how everything goes together, but this is my thinking; With nobody touching the throttle, in my circuit, wont i have a current flowing from the battery anode via the potentiometer straight back into the battery cathode? This results in a huge waste of energy doesnt it? And the battery would drain even when the bike is stored in a hallway overnight.  So, does anybody know if this circuit will work? i need it to take energy from the battery ONLY when active.

Posted by Tsimbilakis 3 years ago

found possible parts for electric bike conversion ?

Hi! For €100 i can get an electric skateboard which has 3 12v 10AH batteries and a 600w motor with belt drive to the rear axle. Claimed top speed is 25km/h. Including is charger and throttle controller. could this be a good idea? I would need to mount the motor somewhere i still have no idea....

Posted by tjacobs5 2 years ago

197? can-am TNT 250

Hello all, I am in the process of fixing up an old Can am 250 from the seventies, and wanted to hear some of your reviews of this bike. Most people i know say that it was a beast, if you twisted the throttle the front would come off the ground, other people have said that it was a gutless hunk of junk. Thanks in advance for the feedback!

Posted by Steamdnt 9 years ago

Instructable is still hung up.

Need a hand with an instructable again. It seems mine keep getting "hung up" in the filters. When this happens, they stay in limbo for a good long time, then when they're finally pushed through, they're already buried on page 32 of the "recent" list. I've tried E-Mailing Ed and randofo 2 days ago, but haven't gotten a response. Anyone have any ideas how to deal with this? Or what "filters" are in place so I can avoid having my instructable get throttled, then buried?

Posted by Javin007 9 years ago

pulsejet night run

This is the simplest pulsejet you could make and costs only Rs.110 and has got a good throttling range,which you could see in the video..No need to strain much to start this engine it starts in a single attempt. this has really got good thrust,tried to show an cloth near it but i was not able to do it,so much of force from the exhaust day i will hook it up to a scale and find out the real thrust.. note: at the end when i tried to show a cardboard the engine got few holes in the welded parts..  

Posted by ganuganu 7 years ago

3ch rc ciruit board

I would like to build my own rc airplane. I already know how to build the fuselage and the wings. I also have the landing gear. I have a 27mhz rc circuit from an old rc car. The problem is the car was only a 2ch board. I need a 3ch transmitter and receiver. (Throttle, left/right, up/down). I'll be honest, I don't know much about circuit boards, but I can learn. Does anyone know how to make the circuit board for this, or where I can get a custom board made for me?

Posted by popit 8 years ago

Plumbing Help

Help! We just moved into a new house and the water pressure seemed pretty high, especially at the bathroom sink (it sprays everywhere when turned on full).  I tested the pressure at an exterior hose bib and it measured at 81 psi.  It also measured at 79 psi at the cold water supply valve for the washing machine.  I sent the pictures listed here to my father-in-law, who seems to believe that I can adjust the pressure with the current plumbing system.  I looked everywhere for a pressure regulator in the line, but couldn't find one.  The only thing I can think of is that he believes the gray valve above the meter is a glob valve and can be used to throttle down the pressure.   Any help would be appreciated!

Posted by dklaver15 2 years ago

Bite force transducer embedded in a gumshield

I am a quadriplegic and paralysed from the shoulders down. I am working on a project to allow me to control a go kart. I have limited use of my arms which should allow me to control the steering but I am trying to get another degree of freedom to control acceleration and/or braking One of the ideas is to use a piezoelectric type force transducer in the mouth to control and acceleration via an arduino or similar. The transducer would detect bite force and it would be converted into control signals for the throttle and/or brake. It would be embedded in a gumshield and it would be acceptable to have a cable coming from the front of it to the control System. I am wondering has anyone worked on such a project and could anyone point me in the right direction please. The gumshield may end up looking something like the image here.

Posted by greenonyx 4 years ago

Free Computer Parts Needed!!!

Hello Instructables community!!! I am in Desparate need. i need some computer parts free preferably that you want to get rid of. Specific parts that i am looking for are 8GB sets of RAM, Laptop HDD's of a 500GB+ Capacity, Desktop HDD's of 500GB+ Capacity, Joysticks (For MFS9) modern if possible, and for those flight simmers out there, i need a set of Rudder Pedals, a Yoke, and a Throttle quadrant (twin engine if possible)...the important things i need for flight sim is the rudder pedals, and yoke however if i can only get rudder pedals i will consider myself blessed. Yall can expect a few 'Ibles from these things i am asking for. i am willing to pay for shipping. just PM me if you have anything that can help!!!

Posted by sokamiwohali 6 years ago

Rc Airplane Guide

I have been thinking about building an R/C airplane. Here are the specifications I need. L:3ft W:4ft H:6in ( 15 with prop and landing gear Engine: Chain saw motor Prop: 12in Control surfaces: 2 ailerons, elevator I don't know anything about R/C and here are my questions: 1.) How do you assemble an R/C system? 2.) What is needed to run 4 servos(3 control, 1 throttle)? 3.) Where should I buy stuff? 4.) What else should I know? I know how to connect servos to an air frame and everything, but I need to know how to connect a full R/C system together( receiver, servos, battery, etc.). Any help? Please. P.S. My air frame will be, a wing, a wooden dowel going to tail, tail, motor and muffler. I used this design because I have no weight added other than required materials.

Posted by ry25920 10 years ago

D.I.Y. Automotive Black Box, DVR, OBDII

Friends, I am a noob that is considering building a Black Box for my car, I suspect that I am not the first so please if you know of discussions on developing an awesome Black Box please direct me to it. The Black Boxes being offered are Gold Dusted empty, expensive crapware. I want added protection from bad drivers, bad insurance companies and bad cops so I want six or more 1K or better cameras and DVR with the ability to store on any size SD card and/or SSD. I also want telemetry from many sources like GPS, speed, throttle and brake pedal positions, steering degrees, OBDII and more. Two problems I suspect will be power drain when the car is parked and chip cooling. I'd like to Stink Tank this idea with interested peeps (WOW! I always wanted to use Peeps, yeah, I know Late) I look forward to hearing from you Sincerely

Posted by XJohnD 1 year ago

Help! photos, diagrams, etc required for Himmelstürmer

hello, I need some diagrams or sketches or photos of the german Himmelstürmer. If you have scale or measurements, that would be even better. one sounds like a simple enough device, and I would like to make it as a fun project. and post it up as an ible. all I know is that it consisted of two pulse jets and fuel tank(s). one small jet pointed down and was attached to the front of the user, the other larger one pointed at a downwards angle. fuel was stored on the front of the person. the engines did not run long enough to heat up, so there is no heat protection. it was used by throttling the engines, which would push the wearer into the air and forwards, allowing jumps of 60 meters distance and up to 50 feet height. I just need details of the, well, the entire device. the attached picture is just an artist impression of the device. I have no idea how to mount it to the user in a non-permanent way, and I need dimensions and such to allow it to be safe. I really don't want to make a device for an ible that could blow up the user. Thanks!

Posted by Nyanman 7 years ago

My lawnmower left me saying "WTF" this morning...

Well, here's the deal.. Last night I took the mower deck off my rider, sharpened the blades, re-attached them, made sure it ran fine, which it did, worked like it has been for the past 3 months, parked it in the tarp shed and went inside. Well this is what really really made me snap. I was happy with it because I just fixed the tire and thought "Thank fuckin god it's back and working again" as it had sat up on cinder blocks for the past 2 weeks due to flat tires. Morning comes, beautiful day out, grass to mow. I go to start it, takes a few times (I thought it was odd, but didn't think much of it) and get it started. Well some past history first, this machine was fixed at a mennonite repair shop a year ago or so because apparently there was a peice of dirt stuck in the hole that a supposed pin drops into when the machine shuts off to stop the gas flow from going into the engine when it's off. They put a valve on the gas line aswell, well after that, it never went down all the way on the throttle or it would just stall. Well this morning, it seemed to be completely the opposite, it idled fine at the lowest throttle setting (I had a really confused look at the time) and at full open, it ran horrible and the whole frame was shaking because it was going up and down (the reving I mean). I tried to cut grass with it, and it goes for about 5 meters and then nearly stalls (still hasn't for some reason, but just barely) and then starts running again and spews out a shitload of smoke for a few seconds. I tried to "run" it off and it didn't even drained the gas and put new gas in, that was a wasted $10 trip to the gas station.As of now, it's sitting out in my yard, I don't want to touch it because it's pissed me off enough. Also, I took the air filter off and it seems that at one point it was spewing gas up out of the air inlet. Can someone please help me?!? I need this machine running as I cut grass for people. I vowed to myself I would permantly park this thing if one more thing broke, but it's getting it's last chance.** Forgot to add, it's a 12hp brigs and straton (type H I think?), and manufactured by murry (I know..sad).Second appears to be fine?? It ran ok today, a bit touchy, but it seems ok, can someone care to explain how the hell this happened????!?, scrap that, it's fuxxored again. Arg, I need it for my lawn cutting needs!

Posted by Punkguyta 11 years ago

How do i fix this zafira problem

Help zafira w reg keeps losing power almost feels like it's braking?i have a w reg 2000 zafira elegance 1.8 petrol and i have got a problem with it losing power big time at low speeds and quite serverly when cruise at 60-70 mph it almost feels like the brakes have been applied then all of a sudden it picks up and flies off. i've had the engine managment light come on so had it put on the computer at main dealer they found code p0100 and p0505 which they charged £250 to tell me and convert the air flow sensor (allegedly as i don't see any sign of work done) .then thay said i need a new throttle body and iac valve new mass airflow sensor and pipes new crankshaft sensor new camshaft sensor plus a new ecu but can't quarantee that will fix it so what do i do pay the £3500 for them to try that or plead for help on the internet for ideas on possible solutions so here i am please could someone help

Posted by msc 10 years ago

Weed Whacker-Powered Bicycle

This is a bike I built a year ago. It uses a 30.5cc (about 1.5hp) weed whacker engine for propulsion. A version of the same thing was on Instructables, and that's what partially inspired me to make this. ;) The engine mounts are made out of wood, because I still have not learned to weld, but they hold up just fine. The engine is an ten-year-old Echo weed whacker. It has 10,000 max RPMs. The bike peg attached is 2" in diameter and gives about 25mph top speed. There is no clutch! The one that came with the engine was way too flimsy for a vehicle like this so I took it out. Saved a lot of space, too. For the throttle, I disconnected the back brake line and connected it to the engine. The front brakes are still intact, and you can turn the engine off to slow the vehicle as well. I added the extra heatsink to the engine to help keep it cooler, as it was never meant for this kind of exertion. It gets as hot as the engine, so I guess it conducts the heat away pretty effectively. There is a 10-LED bargraph to show the engine temperature. It uses an LM3914, an op-amp, and a thermistor. There is also a 555 to drive a buzzer when it gets too hot. The bike has head and taillights that are both driven from a joule thief. They are not very bright; they are more for being seen than to see. Here's a youtube video, taken almost a year ago: Some more photos and a little more information:;=656 Comments/criticisms? :)

Posted by 1up 8 years ago

Calling all small engines mechanics!

I have a problematic Ariens YT12 tractor that I have been meddling around with all summer trying to make run perfectly. If I make a video and post it on youtube, to show what it's been doing lately, can someone help me out??!?? I got kinda drunk one weekend and I think I revved the sh*t out of it, the weird things is, I can cut grass with it at full throttle for 2 hours but as soon as I go to rev the engine higher with my modified gas pedal or when I'm adjusting the carb, it just revs up then it starts to sputter and it wants to stall. It's really weird, and although I think I could use a new crankcase gasket, I know the engine is not blown, I'm wondering if maybe I've melted something in the carb, considering how close the carb is to the exhaust pipe on this machine, and the fact that it's a hot running machine (I remember shutting it off one night when it was dark after cutting grass for two hours, the bolts the hold the exhaust on the engine were glowing bright orange.) Anyways I won't bother explaining too much of it, but I'm wondering what I did to my baby and I know a video would probably clarify things a lot better. Something needs to be replaced on it, I know for a fact, it's just a matter of what. I figure even a new carb kit to replace the gaskets and the needle and pin would probably help oodles.

Posted by Punkguyta 8 years ago

Hoverbike takes off

Australian Christopher Malloy has built what seems to be a working hoverbike.  Built in his Sydney garage, with a custom carbon-fibre frame and a BMW engine, the machine is being touted as "Star Wars Speeder bike Mk1". Currently restricted to tethered flights of a few inches altitude, Malloy claims the bike feels stable, and is just waiting permission to undertake untethered tests. 'I am still ground testing at the moment only because I'm not 100 per cent sure what will happen so the straps are there to cover the unknown. I haven't had the pleasure of flying round the countryside yet. 'It is quite stable and doesn't want to tip over but if something unplanned happened during testing I wouldn't want to break the prototype. 'The Hoverbike was built with safety in mind so at least three components have to fail before you might have a serious airborne failure. 'There are also two explosive parachutes attached to the airframe and of course the rider could choose to wear their own parachute too. He predicts: 10,000ft altitude. 100mph 92 mile, 45 minute flight on one tank £45,000 pricetag The hoverbike should also have "ultralight" status - at only 270kg, under US regulations, no pilot's license would be required.  Since it has no driven wheels, it shouldn't require a road license either...!  Malloy is a former helicopter pilot, and says those skills are helpful when flying the hoverbike, but also says that the unique craft ultimately needs no more skill to fly than a motorbike, with speed and direction being controlled by a mixture of throttle and body-posture. As soon as I win the Lottery, I know who is going to get a knock at the door... Via Daily Mail

Posted by Kiteman 7 years ago

Carburettor Heater - need help

Hi All, Hope this is in the right section. I am working on a project to heat the body of a carburettor (Bing 84) in order to prevent carb icing.  No commercial solution exists for my carburettor.  My engine (for paramotoring) is air cooled so can't use water from cooling system. My idea was to strip out the nichrome heating element from a car cigarette lighter and use that.  The heat needs to be applied to the metal casing of the carburettor, preferably being hottest near the air intake side of the carb.  I decided the best place was where the air filter is attached - a 12mm long metal throat with a 35mm diameter The trouble is, I don't know I can transfer the hundreds of degrees of temperature from the nichrome to the metal body of the carb without just shorting out the battery.  If I am to have a layer of insulation between the nichrome and the carburettor, what can I use that will conduct heat but not electrical current, and withstand around 300 degrees of heat?  I also thought about reducing the current and spreading the heating over a larger portion of the metal casing, which would allow the temperature to be lower. I have also been experimenting with motorbike hand grip heaters that run of 12v but they don't generate enough heat - I need to be pumping in around 8-10A as the internal cooling effect of the fuel vaporising rapidly causes sub zero conditions inside the carb even when the outside air temperature is well above freezing.  I have a 7Ah li-ion which I would only switch on when required (maybe have a latching push button on throttle control). It may not be doable but its an interesting project nonetheless and something I am going to play around with.  Any ideas? Thanks, Dug

Posted by dugaldcurtis 6 years ago

Multi Part Instructable?

I am making an instructable for building a gas powered bicycle from scratch, but in it's current form, it is shaping up to have literally hundreds of steps. Is there a way to break it down into smaller sections in such a way that I could still enter it in a contest as one instructable? I was thinking perhaps I make an instructable that consists of only the introduction, followed by quick overviews of each part, with accompanying links to other instructables which are dedicated to each part. The way I am planning to do it, I would have one instructable for how to modify the engine, another one for choosing a good bicycle to motorize, another for mounting the engine to the bike frame, another for calculating gear ratios and setting up gear reduction, another for rebuilding the rear wheel, another for throttle linkage, another for exhaust systems, gas tanks, and air filters, another for all the other misc stuff you have to do, and finally one more for how to ride safely. So that would be 9 parts to the instructable, each their own instructable, which even split into 8 would make quite large instructables. Then the "parent" instructable, which would be the one I enter in contests, or which would be featured if it's worthy, would look like this: How to build a 4hp motorized bicycle from scratch! Blah blah blah introduction, nice pictures of finished bicycles, etc. Step 1 short overview of specific part, ex modifying the engine, then link to another instructable providing detailed instructions on exactly how to modify the engine Step 2 same format as step 1 and so on until all the parts are covered. This would also be helpful to me because I could better organize the hundreds of images I have for this instructable, right now it is a huge pain in the butt to find any specific image, so much so that it's easier to upload them one by one as I need them just so I can keep track. So, would this format be ok?

Posted by TheNecromancer13 2 years ago

Converted 1990 Ninja ZX-6 Electric Motorcycle

Hi, I'm cross posting this here as I know this is a community of folks who might appreciate something like this project.  I've recently converted a sportbike to electric power.  It was a grad school project but since I'm in the Active Army, I have to PCS (move) to Izmir, Turkey for one year.  Since I don't want to let it sit for a year in my garage, I'm selling it on ebay.  Please check it out and spread the word to anyone interested. It would make a great bike for a college student to ride around campus or the local town.  Or a great starter bike for someone beginning to learn how to ride motorcycles as there's no distracting engine noise or clutch work.  I live in Kansas City, Missouri but have a flexible schedule so I can work with different shipping methods that you use. here's the link and some features: Specifications: -Top Speed: about 52 mph as geared depending on windspeed and terrain -Range: about 15 miles depending on terrain and riding habits -Acceleration: adequate for traffic -Charge time: 5-6 hours -Motor: 72volt GE series wound DC -Batteries: 6 x 12volt 35ah Power Sonic AGM (Absorbent Glass Mat) -Controller: Alltrax AXE-7245 (Programmable and with data logging capability via USB cable) -Charger: 72volt 8amp, plug comes out of gas cap and can be plugged in any standard outlet -Contactor: Kilovac EV200 by Tycho Electric -Main Fuse: 400 amp -Battery cage and motor mount: welded angle and tube steel -Weight: 422 lbs  (47 lbs lighter than the factory weight) -72v to 12v converter to run factory wiring harness Features:   -PakTrakr display to show total pack voltage and individual battery voltages -Motor controller can log data via USB cable for battery pack voltage, Motor current, Battery current and throttle position (the graph picture was made by importing the data to microsoft excel) -Factory key switch enables contactor -Neutral dash light wired to show contactor status -Manual switch enables controller -Sidestand switch linked to "interrupt" relay in contactor circuit -Street legal, registered and insured in Missouri thanks -chris

Posted by kcsimcoe 8 years ago

Help for completion of Knee Walker Project ?

Hi Everyone I have a problem with a project I started to overcome my unique disability , this project was to basically install low powered electric motor on a kneewalker so I could get assistance / go off-road , yet still use it manually if need be i.e. to get some exercise or more importantly if battery dies ( something I cant do with mobility scooter or wheelchair  ) The problem however is I cant do this myself due my disability ( weld it , use power tools etc ) so I had this person i meet on a another  forum who agreed to help me - but unfortunately he hasnt   - so instead I am trying to find a replacement for him or any one that is willing to help. The motor itself ( Motor - MW12B GoldenMotor  )seems to work fine using a Lyens controller , but  unfortunately there is no direct link to the hub motor whose details are below. Model: MW12B -- 12" Motor Wheel Voltage:36V (Brushless) Power Rate:250W Weight: 4.8Kgs You will have to got to the gm website on the link above click on hub motors and scroll down to find more details , including links to 3d drawings . You can see the motor itself working in following videos that were posted by the person who still has it video1 video2 video3 Due to the size difference of the wheel  ( 16" compared to the front 9" using MTB tires ) amongst other things, we were  trying to find a way to mount it that he suggested would probably involve having to weld on some strong rear forks from a bike  or perhaps something else. Ive included the whole assessment / plan we did based on our mutual ideas and discussions below for reference, but Im afraid thats pretty much it , as I dont have any of the parts here for reference or than the basic facts . If any ones interested in helping , or going me any advice Id be grateful for your suggestions , if any ones wants to offer their services at a price just send me a pm and we discuss things further. thanks for listening , heres the assessment / plan I mentioned.. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I need to figure out a rough plan for the wheel mounting, plus brake mounting. We need to get disc and caliper. We need to figure out what front wheels, how to mount them, and how to fix the sloppy steering. In order to go see a welder we need to know where to weld the dropouts, the caliper mounts, and what, if any welding to do at the front end. Assessment Frame - good, solid, heavy. bulletproof. Wheels - strong, solid, better made with bearings etc better than expected. but hard tires are not nice, and wheels are a little too thin and too small. I expect its easy to get hung up on small obstacles. brakes - crap. none existent basically. Just a bit of metal pushing on the tyre. Also the lever is either crap or a bit broken. need to inspect it. steering - not very good but not crap. whole linkgae is a bit loose and wobbly, just held together by a few bolts. this means it has a fair bit of play in the steering. The whole thing with the bolts is that they have to be a bit loose otherwise the steering won't move. not a very good design. but it will do. handlebars/stem/steerer - designed to be collapsible easily, which is good, but there is also excessive play in this as well. it will do but its not great. ------------------------------------------------------------------ Thoughts.... Because there is four wheels, I found that on uneven floors (just around the front room the floorboards were uneven enough) one wheel is often off the ground a tiny bit. This would be solved by having 3 wheels or tyres with a bit of give in them. I would not want to keep any of the wheels. I would want to replace the front wheels with something a bit wider softer and grippier. like scooter wheels or MTB wheels. Brakes - the center of gravity is quite far forward. if it had brakes only on the front then i feel like it might tip over. then again, with the weight of the frame, the motor, batteries and person, maybe not. I will do some testing. Motors - Golden has the 8" single sided solid tyre motors that would be the easiest conversion, but I don't like the solid tyres and I don't like having 2 wheels at the back. I already ran into my foot. There is also the 8" double sided solid tire. This is not so easy either because it is the same size as the existing wheels therefore the axle would want to go exactly where the existing axles join. Could be done with cutting and welding but would be a pain, plus you still have the solid tire etc. I held up a 12" dinner plate and I reckon it would not look so bad actually. I will take some pics tomorrow. It looks like we would need to cut off a bit of the back section and weld on some dropouts, a bit higher up and further in than the existing axle mounts.. It looks like it will fit under the knee platform ok as well. Controller - because we may well end up with a motor that is not exactly right for the job, I think its all the more important we get a controller with some intelligence. Something programmable where we can set a low voltage, top speed etc. This leads us back to the GM controller, Lyens mini monster, or......I just thought, hmmm the kelly controllers are programmable - well they do a little controller that might be up for the job as well. In fact it looks the most programmable one so far. It is the mini one next to the coke can here: Hub & Wheel Motor Controller | EV Parts They have one that does 12-24v for $79 or $99 depending on max amps. You can get it waterproof for an extra $19 ... p-499.html It is fully programmable, see the software screenshots and manual here: Kelly KBS controllers online demo/help-Kelly Controls, LLC ... Manual.pdf You need a serial port on your computer to program it, if you don't have one you need a serial to USB converter. They sell one for $29. Kelly are good controllers. I never thought of them until just now - I usually associate them with high power controllers for cars and motorbikes. When I used to work at Sevcon (who make argubaly the best...and most expensive...controllers you can get.)....kelly was one of the few competitors we kept an eye on. If you look at the setup software, you can fine tune min throttle, max throttle, max amps, max speed, all kinds of things. It will be just the ticket for fine tuning. --------------------------------------------------------------------- So........... This would be my personal plan right now - Electronics: $115 Motor - MW12B (GM) $98 kelly controller waterproofed $29 Serial RS232 to USB converter (from kelly) $20 throttle (max) $20 ebrake lever (max) $50 wiring, connectors, etc -------- $332 Frame / Fabrication: $50 old steel bike to steal dropouts off (maximum, probably less from craigslist or a garage sale) $150 to pay someone to weld the dropouts on and maybe brake caliper mounts plus machine front wheel mounts if necessary for new wheels (maximum) $50 (max) 2 front wheels MTB or scooter 8 inch with pneumatic tyres. $30 (max) new axles, bolts, washers etc $30 box for battery plus mounting bolts etc $50 (max) for respray or powdercoat frame (will be messy after welding. something to put the battery in ----------------------- $360 Brakes $20 (max) brake disk for rear plus screw on adapter for rear hub Brake discs $40 (max) brake caliper (cable ok, hydraulic not needed) $50 bolt on brake caliper mount (seen them somewhere but can't find right now) price is a guess. --------------------------- $110 Battery depends. I am clueless as to the requirements of this system. I can test with my own batteries once it is setup. Then we will know, but at a minimum you will be talking about 18 or 24v 10 amp hour. That is : $199 from ping

Posted by hele 6 years ago

Ghost riders in the sky

I know that this probably isn't the perfect site to be asking for this, but I figure I'll give it a shot. I'd like to come up with a design for a picture I intend to create, which shows the Four Horsemen, except instead of horses, they're riding motorcycles. If anyone is familiar with The Outlaws' version of the song song "(Ghost) Riders in the Sky", I'd like it to fit in with that theme: hard-charging, kind of dark... you can tell from the atmosphere that they're Hell-riders. I'm trying to come up with a layout for it: how are the Horsemen arranged, what precisely do their bikes look like, where are they, and are they chasing the Devil's Herd of cattle? And should they even be the Four Horsemen of the Apocalypse, or just regular cowboys who were eternally damned, like the song goes? Both have different visual possibilities. So what I'm looking for is even the crudest drawings depicting one aspect of the picture that you think would be cool. Maybe you have the idea for the perfect shape and level of tattering to one Horseman's cowboy hat, and would like to suggest that. Maybe you think that if one of the guys was riding a Vincent, it'd be the most badass thing since open pipes. Chasing the cattle through a canyon, or idling at the top of a cliff looking down on the Devil's Herd? Any cool color palette you've seen? good reference photos? Stick figures are great. Here's what I have so far, although it can be changed no problem. Like I said, I'd like details of the coolest intake you can think of, the perfect instrument panels, the perfect trenchcoat for a rider. Any little detail, rendered in any level of quality. I'm considering showing them all riding along side each other, holding rifles, instead of the badly-perspectived parked scene shown here. Have the perfect design for the mountains? Toss it in! I plan on making these very huge, so don't worry about details being too small. You'll notice that I'd like to have one Indian, left-hand throttle bike, potentially a big twin, and potentially a Four, with fringed leater seat and saddlebags. I'd also like to have a stretch chopper with a king & queen seat, but I can't decide between a wide or a narrow tire. Notice how the Indian rider is holding his rifle in the second picture. I'd like to have him holding a gun, and at least one of the other guys having a pistol belt with two Colt Peacemakers. If anyone has a cool way of depicting that, please share. I am open to suggestion as to what the right rifle would be. You can also notice that in the second sketch, there is a Harley springer front end lurking in the background on the left, and I didn't draw the Indian rider's whole body, so that's actually Chopper Dude's rear wheel, not Indian Dude's head.

Posted by Rishnai 10 years ago

Guess My Mileage Contest!

In about two weeks, I will be embarking on a nearly 2000 mile road trip from the "right" coast to the "left" coast of the United States. I will send the person that guesses my fuel economy over the entire trip a $10 (USD) bill and 1 instructables patch.Rules1. Thou Shall Not Exceed My Mileage2. Thou Shall Guess a Number Ending in the Thousandths ( Thou Shall not guess a previously guessed number4. Thou Shall guess MPG (please no l/100km et. al. - just to keep the rules more simple)a. If no one guesses exactly, the guess closest, but not exceeding the real number wins.b. If two people guess the same number - see rule 3. The first person's guess is validc. You can change your guess by replying to your original guess - once your guess is changed, it can be taken by someone else.d. Guesses that do not accurate to the thousandth will be ignoredHere's some clues to assist your guessing.Car2000 Volkswagen Jetta2.0L Naturally Aspirated Gasoline Engine ~110hp ratedCurrently 102,xxx Miles on the Odometer5 Speed Manual GearboxOil change ~1500 miles ago (it will not be changed for another 9-10K miles)Tires inflated to 50/55 HOT - these are all seasonsGrille Blocked OffPassenger Mirror Folded in (possibly will be removed)Scanguage2 to monitor coolant temperature, trip mpg, TPS etc.CargoPossibly 1 mini fridge >100lbsMe: ~130lbsPassenger ~150lbsTwo suitcases (one will not exceed 50lbs)Possibly a third suitcase (not exceeding 50lbs)Lets tack on an additional 200lbs for things I'm not seeing nowEPA Estimates24mpg City31mpg Highway27mpg CombinedMeI use hypermile driving techniques... That is:1. Accelerate based on Brake Mean Fuel Consumption Charts (~2500-3000 RPM - 50% throttle = most efficiency)2. Coast and Burn with 3+++:1 coast-burn ratio (engine either off or idle)3. Engine Off at stoplights and approach4. Windows UP - AC OFF (this may change, but that's currently how I'm riding | AC will trump windows)5. I will not exceed the speed limit - I may travel below for optimal fuel economy6. Bump Start where applicable (following the same method the Prius uses to start its ICE)RouteCurrently being discussed and looked over. I20 is looking promising, but it's up in the air.GaslogPlease take this with a grain of salt. I only just recently started hypermiling (beginning of April lets say). So only the last tank (which was 100% city) reflects that.My GaslogCalculationCalculation will be based off the sum of the miles (accurate to the tenth) divided by the sum of the fuel pumped (accurate to the thousandth). Everything will be based on receipt, not scangauge2 data.ChangesThis is the section that I post changes to my car, cargo etc.. A change can be as basic as a bit more anticipated weight or as drastic as major aerodynamic modification or mechanical. A possible change may be a hot air intake.Finally, a note about my oil changes.... I send an oil sample to Blackstone Labs for oil analysis. My last oil change interval was a tad over 10K miles -- and the lab report indicated my oil was still good - everything was good except a slightly high Cu level. Not in the danger zone, but something to watch. My point is... Don't give me any crap about 3K miles - I like my oil films established and don't need constant oil changes screwing that up -- that's why I pay for oil analysis (besides, it comes out cheaper in the end anyway).

Posted by trebuchet03 11 years ago

Tracking down the speed problems on a laptop.

I've copied the conversation here so we could remove the information from the original instructable's comments.  I figure this would also be of some interest to other forum viewers who may have similar problems, or may be able to chip in. The long and short of it is, 92033 (Ed) has a refurbished laptop that takes literal hours to run a YouTube video on.  I suspect that it's due to a bottleneck with his internet connection.  Here's the conversation thus far: ---------------------------------------------------------------- 92033 (Ed): Thank you kindly for your prompt reply...appreciate it very much. I came across this site by accident in searching for something else and now I'm 'hooked' on it. :) So far I've read over 400 archived posts (whew) well as looking at the videos. The videos are somewhat of a problem because this new laptop only has 512 mg memory...LOOOOOng time to load. For watch a SLOW 5-minute You Tube video takes 5-1/2 HOURS to load...keeps showing a couple words at a time...need to get two new memory chips to upgrade to 2gb. Thanks again...Take care. ---------------------------------------------------------------- eddems: I think you're basic download speed is killing ya, not the laptop. check you're speed at, if you see the link near the bottom for the old test, run it, I like it's graph of upload and download speed much better. ---------------------------------------------------------------- 92033: Thanks much. I'll check it out. I ordered a 1gb SDRAM Memory chip which just arrived yesterday. Hope this speeds things up a bit. ---------------------------------------------------------------- harley_rly: i hear u man, my computer is hopped up, but i live out in the sticks and have dialup...i only get 24kbps at most :( ---------------------------------------------------------------- 92033: Maybe there's hope for 'us' yet. :-) I phoned Tiger Direct to see cost of an upgrading memory chip to go from 512mg to 1-1/2gb. The guy I talked to suggested I get "PC TUNEUP 2.0" which bypasses the Windows Operating System (I'm using Windows XP Pro) and speeds up the system. I gave it a try and ordered the CD (cost $39.98 - $44.77 postpaid). It hasn't arrived yet but will let you know if it helps as he claims it will. He said that if I just ordered a 1gb memory chip my system wouldn't notice much improvement as it is, but this CD should do the trick. THEN...when I DO order the Memory chip(s) to get total of 2gb my system should zip through like a rocket with the CD just ordered. I'll let you know when I get the CD and about the results. Just hope I haven't thrown forty-five bucks to the wind. Thanks for the contact...appreciate hearing from you. TAKE CARE. ~ ED ---------------------------------------------------------------- Javin007: PC Tune-Up "bypasses the Windows Operating System?" This guy fed you a load of crap. (I work on computers for a living.) PC Tune-Up does nothing more than clean up registries, defragment harddrives (if your OS even needs it, some don't) and keeps drivers up to date (which you could do manually.) That guy's an idiot, or just a liar. Could be both. Unless you were buying PC Tuneup 2.0 from Tiger Direct, in which case we can add "sleazy salesman" to that. What are the specs of the laptop? Go to Start/Run and type in DXDIAG. This will give you a quick snapshot of the specs. Specifically, I'm curious as to the processor speed/type. For a 5 1/2 hour "load" you're more likely looking at network slowdown issues (although 512 megs for XP is WAYYYY too little. I HATE when they put PCs together like that). The RAM upgrade will show significant speed increases, but no improvement with YouTube videos or other downloads. I'm glad to see you are returning the CD. ---------------------------------------------------------------- 92033: Thanks much for your input...appreciate it very much. I checked the DXDIAG as you recommended. Here's the info on it: IBM ThinPad Laptop PC. Model # 23738TU. Intel Premium M 1.70GHZ. 512mb SDRAM Memory chip.Page File- 351mb used,513 mb available. Direct Version-Directx 9.00 (4.09.0000.0904). 512 mb SDRAM-Actual 212 Ram. AVAST Anti-Virus. MS Windows XP-PRO.. Dialup Speed-40kbps. PC2700 SDRAM 512mb Memory Chip installed. I ordered 1bb memory chip which arrived yesterday. Now I have to figure out HOW to remove the bottom of this laptop to install it...lotta small screws on it. :-) Oh, total memory shows 32mb. I don't know if this means much to you. I note your comment that the added RAM memory WONT (?) speed up loading YouTube videos? Is that correct? If so, why not? Thanks again. Take care. ~ ED ---------------------------------------------------------------- Javin007: :) At the risk of boring too many people, here's how memory in a PC works: You have two kinds of memory: RAM, and Hard Drive (technically there's three, as there's also onboard video RAM on video cards, but this is primarily used for 3D video game textures, so can be mostly ignored.) Your harddrive's read/write speed is determined by the type of harddrive it is (most are SATA now) and the rotation speed (most are 7200 RPM, though the specs for your system say yours is only 5400 RPM, but there are 10, 15, and even 20K rpm models out there that are exponentially more expensive.) No matter what, harddrive memory will always be degrees slower than RAM. RAM on the other hand is a small chunk of memory that is "temporary" memory, but very fast. Its speed is determined by the type of RAM (DDR2 being the current common one for notebooks, though DDR3 is available with some motherboards (you can ignore this, though, as you can only handle 2 gigs max of DDR with your system). The motherboard will determine the limits for the RAM that can be installed.) When running *ANYTHING* on your computer, and I mean ANYTHING, it must first be loaded into RAM to be accessed by the CPU. The computer doesn't directly access the harddrive. So this means when your operating system is loaded (Windows XP) the entirety of all running processes for the OS have to be loaded into RAM. Now, Microsoft claims that Windows XP only requires a minimum of 64 megs of RAM, but recommends 128 megs. I challenge you to find me a Windows XP system that only uses 128 megs out of the box. It's not atypical for an XP system to chew through all 512 megs of your RAM, leaving no RAM available for other applications. (Interestingly, the default setup for your laptop is only 256 megs of RAM, yet yours is reporting 512.) What happens when there's no RAM left? The system has to then start trading things into what is called "Virtual Memory." VM is nothing more than a file on the harddrive that will temporarily hold information that SHOULD be in RAM, so the RAM can load more info. For instance, say you have a process that's using RAM, but you want to watch your YouTube video. As the video is ready to play, the system will take the other process's data that's in RAM, write it to the harddrive, load your video into RAM in its place, play a portion of it, write the video to the harddrive, load the data for the process to RAM, let it run for a split second (so it doesn't lock up), write it back to the harddrive, load your video into RAM and play a short clip, etc. etc. etc. The result of low RAM on your system is that applications will open slowly (seconds or minutes, instead of instantly or a few seconds) and they will seem slow to respond, will stutter, etc. With enough RAM, your system can freely open as much as it needs into RAM, and ignore the virtual memory and all the slowdowns that it causes. Now, all of this being said, NO lack of RAM will cause a streaming video to take 5 1/2 hours to play. This is 100% going to be related to your downspeed. (Go to and post your results.) RAM slowdowns tend to be most noticeable when shutting down, or starting up your computer, apps will open a little more slowly, they will be slower to respond to button clicks, and video will be very choppy. Anything that is causing a YouTube video to take HOURS will be due to the system simply waiting to get the video in the first place. RAM wouldn't slow down the receiving of the video, but it would cause the video to play weird once it's downloaded. So, all this being said, here's the summary: Your system has a 1.7 Ghz processor, and your RAM is most likely 333 Mhz DDR. If you bump your memory up to a gig, you should see a pretty significant improvement in that your computer will, overall, just "feel" faster. It'll be more responsive, and working with large documents will be many, many times faster. This won't, however, affect your YouTube experience (unless you were getting jittery video often, not the same as "buffering" video.) If you see "buffering" for a long time, your internet connection is your bottleneck. A test on will likely confirm this. However, if you get decent numbers on SpeedTest, then we could have something more sinister going on, though I suspect you'll find your numbers well below the 1 mbps rate. This brings us to actually changing the RAM. I've been out of the PC hardware realm (professional programmer now) for a few years, and was unable to find a manual for your particular model. However, if memory serves, this image should be a fairly accurate representation of the underside of your system: Don't quote me, but I BELIEVE the red circle will indicate the only screw you will need to remove to access the RAM. There should also be a small clip holding the RAM in place that you'll want to pinch to get the RAM out, and make sure that the new RAM snaps into place. (Sometimes you'll have additional empty RAM beds, and you can just put your RAM in there and end up with 1.5 gigs, but I suspect you'll have two 256 gig chips in there.) ---------------------------------------------------------------- 92033: Phew. Thanks again for your most indepth educational lesson. I appreciate all your help more than you realize. I attempted to answer this last night, typing in more than twice the amount of text as your to me, then suddenly realized there was a glitch and I was on another page...lost it all into the ionisphere. :-( Rather than try to retype all I wrote, I shut 'r down and went to sleep. Now I'm trying to recall all I wrote last night but failed to get mailed. I'm not a traditional typist, rather a one-finger bloke so you can understand the frustration there. I do, however, type at a reasonably good speed. With that said, let's continue. I went to search for Configuration of this IBM Laptop ThinkPad 23738TU and am copy and pasting it here. It's relevant to what I have to it is: ********************************************************************************** Overview Specs Features Includes Warranty Supplies IBM ThinkPad T42 2373 Specifications Part # 23738TU Key Specifications IBM ThinkPAD T42 2373 Manufacturer IBM Manufacturer Part # 23738TU Processor Type Intel Pentium M 735 1.7 GHz Data Bus Speed 400 MHz Cache Memory Type L2 cache Installed Size 2 MB RAM Installed Size 256 MB Technology DDR SDRAM Memory Speed 333 MHz System Type Notebook Storage Hard Drive 40 GB, 5400 rpm Storage Controller Type IDE Optical Storage Type DVD ROM Read Speed 24x (CD) / 8x (DVD) Display Type 14.1" TFT active matrix Graphics Processor / Vendor ATI MOBILITY RADEON 7500 Video Memory 32 MB Max. Resolution 1024 x 768 Audio Output Type Sound card Audio Codec AD1981B Compliant Standards DirectSound, AC '97, SoundMAX Telecom Modem Fax / modem Max. Transfer Rate 56 Kbps Protocols & Specifications ITU V.90 Networking Networking Network adapter Data Link Protocol Ethernet, Fast Ethernet, Gigabit Ethernet Expansion Expansion Slots Total 1 x front accessible Expansion Slots Total 2 ( 1 ) x memory 1 ( 1 ) x CardBus - type II Interfaces 1 x docking / port replicator, 240 pin docking 2 x Hi Speed USB, 4 pin USB Type A 1 x parallel, IEEE 1284 (EPP/ECP), 25 pin D Sub (DB25) 1 x display / video, VGA, 15 pin HD D Sub (HD 15) 1 x infrared, IrDA 1 x modem, phone line, RJ11 1 x network, Ethernet 10BaseT/100BaseTX, RJ45 1 x display / video, S video output, 4 pin mini DIN 1 x microphone, input, mini phone mono 3.5 mm 1 x headphones, output, mini phone stereo 3.5 mm Miscellaneous Features Locking device keyhole (cable lock), administrator password, hard drive password, power-on password, asset ID, IBM Embedded Security Subsystem 2.0 Compliant Standards ACPI 2.0, ACPI 1.0b, FCC Class B certified, CE, MPR II, UL, BSMI, cUL, NOM, VCCI-II Operating System Microsoft Windows XP Professional Software Included Adobe Acrobat Reader, PC Doctor, IBM Rapid Restore Ultra, IBM Update Connector, InterVideo WinDVD, IBM Access Connections, IBM Access Support, Access IBM,(OEM) Battery Technology lithium ion Capacity 4400 mAh Average Run Time 5 hour(s) Installed Qty 1 Ambient Temperature Min Operating Temperature 50 °F Max Operating Temperature 90 °F Humidity Range Operating 8 - 80% Dimensions (W x D x H) Unit 12.2 in x 10 in x 1.1 in Weight Unit 4.9 lbs Warranty 3 Years Limited Warranty on parts and labor. IBM 23738TU Summary ********************************************************************************* NOTE...I DON'T BELIEVE THIS...I JUST TYPED FORTY MINUTES REPLY HERE and it instantly scrolled up like speed of lightning and disappeared like last night. I'll ATTEMP to try again later. So please don't reply yet as you need to read my discoveries in changing the RAM chip. Meanwhile, thanks again...take care. ~ ED ******************************************************************************* TRY #3...I'm Back :-) Your diagram showing where the RAM chip is located was right on. Thanks. Here's my DISCOVERY :-( The RAM chip installed was NOT a 512mg...but only a 256mg chip. The ads ans specs say it's a 512mg...NOT SO. I was lied to by either the manufacturer or refurbishing company who removed the original 512 chip and reinstalled a 256 chip. I was lied to by the Tiger Direct guy on the phone. There are NOT two chip slots...only one. So I now have a useless removed 256mb RAM chip. Replaced with the 1gb RAM chip I just installed. So instead of having 1-1/2 gb RAM, I only have 1gb. Here's the crux. To. go to 2gb RAM I'd need to buy a full 2gb RAM CHIP and discard the 1gb for which I just paid $39.99 ($45.00 with s/h). This means another output of almost a hundred dollars plus the $45.00 just wasted because they wont accept return once the sealed chip plastic was opened...even though I had no idea there was only ONE SLOT in this PC instead of TWO like the Tiger Guy said. Now...crux #2...this new 1gb RAM does nothing more to increase speed. I just watched a 2.01 MINUTE YouTube video which took a HALF HOUR to load, so I threw the money away for nothing, eh? There is no noticeable change except the 'speed' shows it now as 41.2 kbps instead of 40 kbps. HOW do I get to speed this thing up to normal viewing in real time? I also saw an ad for 4bg RAM Gateway laptop with 120gb hard drive for $404.99 which is all suped-up with everything. I had to upgrade a LOT since I got this only four months ago...taking over a hundred hours to load it, like Internet Explorer 5 to 6 and then to 8 and now to 9. I'm using AVAST Anti-Virus, after trying for 23 hours to get ADVAR, then find out it didn't load because of problem on the servor's end. Added Firefox and upgraded twice. Loaded MS Protection but it created more problems so I deleted with AVAST which I like. Soooo...I've literally spent over 200 hours to get this thng where it's at now, plus the wasted money for the upgraded RAM chip.and I still don't have increased speed. HOW do I get it? IF the processor has to be changed does this mean I have to gut the thing and install a new motherboard? If so, what kind of money cost are we talking here? I bought this four months ago as a refurbished unit only because I was able to get it on payments of only $25.00 a month. If I had to wait to get $400.00 cash I'd never have it. :-) Okay...that's it for the moment. Thanks much again for your help offering and detailed instructions...appreciate it more than you realize. Best Wishes And God's Blessings To You And Yours In Everything Always. Most Respectfully... ~ ED  ---------------------------------------------------------------- Javin007: Well, let's start with the RAM. If you're running windows XP, you can assume all the extra processes (virus scanners, and whatnot) will be eating up about 512 megs of the RAM. First thing to do is check DXDIAG again (start/run) and verify that it's now reporting the correct amount of RAM. (Don't be surprised if it's like 9 hundred something megs or slightly more. It won't report 1024 or 1 gig.) This being said, that will leave you with the other 512 for your applications. This box won't be running the latest and greatest 3D games, but I suspect it was never intended to. If the heaviest hitter you'll have running is along the lines of photoshop, the 1 gig of RAM you have now should be plenty sufficient. I wouldn't worry about getting 2 gigs. Not for this rig, anyway. Also, Avast is a great (and free) virus protection, every bit as good as Symantec's Norton, so good choice there. If your youtube videos are choking out, we need to start by verifying that it's an actual speed throttling problem. Go to and run the speed test. Come back with the results.

Posted by Javin007 8 years ago