Laser Cutting Machines

I recently installed a Chanxan CW 1610T Laser Cutting Machine with two 95W CO2 laser tubes. Everything works including the cooling system, pumping system and the fan. I turned on the machine and turned on the two lasers. The thing is when I press the Pulse button on the control panel, none of the laser tubes fires. I want to adjust the optical path and I cant do that if the Pulse button has no response. When the machine is ON, the ammeters show a 0 reading and there is no deflection. I thought it was a Laser power problem so I removed the data cables on the laser power box and when I press the test button on the box, the lasers fire beams. So help me out and suggest if its a setting I have missed or something else cause the machine is preventing production to start.

Posted by TendaiM2 2 years ago

Posting An Instructable

I published my instructable two days ago and it is still not showing... What should I do? By the way it says published on my account.

Posted by jollyrunner 6 years ago

please help

Hello,i need help with the site,i cant access my draft instructables or my collection,i am a noob to the site and i need help

Posted by SuperMaker2003 1 year ago

WTV020M01 sound module need help

Hi I recently bought a cheap WTV020M01 (WTV020SD) sound module from china. i know you get what you pay for but i cant really afford to spend big on that kind of electronics or else i would have. Any ways my problems is i have wired up the component as instructed, loaded up the audio files as per instruction on the micro SD card and connected it to power and hit the play pin. And NOTHING happened. i then tested to see if it was getting power and yes the power was fine. After being frustrated i tried moving around the power connector and discovered that if i placed the power in the reset pin the module lit up as if it was working and all the buttons worked but still no sound. i am not sure that as its a cheap component its a dud or have i just wired it up up wrong, or an i missing something like an amp. any help would be good thanks. here is some links to the component specs;=ETC⟨=en

Posted by solarsun 2 years ago

Fixing broken power supply?

Have been using my FolgerTech Prusa i3 printer for a few weeks now, and was doing some cable management when, "Pop!" goes the power supply. I had the mains power unplugged from the power supply, and didn't connect or disconnect any other wires. I was working on hiding some endstop cables (That i will probably just go ahead and shorten later) and when i was satisfied with the job, i went ahead and plugged the printer back in. Pop! Immediately unplugged the printer to prevent further harm. Sounded as if a .22 went off in my room. No burning or acidic smell, just a pop. From the sound of it, i assumed it had to be the power supply. So i examined everything, the ramps boards, the arduino, etc. Nothing. Everything looks fine. I remove the power supply from the printer, and plug it back in. LED light stays off, no more sounds. Using my multimeter, i checked the output voltage, and sure enough, it's dead. So i go ahead and crack the power supply open, and begin examining the components. Nothing. Absolutely nothing. All the caps look fine, no charred marks, no scorches or burns. No component looks any different than its functional counterpart. Beyond the cheap chinese soldering job, the board looks fine. So i take the board off of the metal plate to examine the backside. Solder splatter everywhere, but no shorts or anything (It worked for about 3 weeks.). I do, however, notice that there is a nice dry joint on one of the large capacitors. Thinking that might be the problem, i go ahead and fix the joint by reflowing the solder. Put it back in its case, plug it in, nothing. Anyone have any idea what may have happened? I am a student who currently doesn't have 30$ to fork out for another power supply, but do have an arsenal of spare electronic components. (Will eventually buy another power supply, but currently don't have money to set aside for it.) What should i look for? What blew up? Why does it not work anymore? If any more info is needed, let me know!

Posted by RocketPenguin 3 years ago

troubleshooting voice modulator

About four years ago I bought this robot voice kit for a halloween costume: (the scematics are near the bottom of the data sheet) I never finished it and now that I put it together it's not working. The signal goes through to the amplifier, but without the modulating happening. Does anyone know what the problem could be, or if there is a way to narrow it down without desoldering and testing the components individually? Thanks

Posted by Jur 5 years ago

Potentiometer not working after connected to wires

Hi, I'm fairly new to electronics and I'm trying to learn it with my Arduino. Recently I have been working on a project that involves 4 potentiometer(pot). I'm using one 1k pot and 3 10k pot. The pot is used to send signals to the analog inputs of the arduino. To test the pots I used a simple serial.println program that sends the value of the pot from 0 - 1023. When I connect the pot through its 3 pins directly to the breadboard, all of them work perfectly fine and gives me a stable value as I turn the pot. However, when I soldered three wires to them each, 2 of them work and 2 of them didnt. The 1k and one of the 10k pot didnt work. When I connected it through its wires, the values it gave kept jumping even when I'm not turning the knob and sometimes it will just stay one value when I'm turning it or not. Why is this happening? Did I overheat the pot when soldering? I took some new pots and tested them again through the pins directly and it worked perfectly fine. But when I soldered the wires to it, this time the 10k worked fine and the 1k didnt work. It gave the same problem as the ones before. Please help me with this problem. I have attached the pictures of the pots that didn't work. Please help me check if my soldering is anything wrong. I have checked online couldn't fine anyone experiencing the same problem. TQ! 

Posted by KhayhenS 3 years ago

EL Wire Troubleshooting

Hey everyone, I use EL Wires to make small neon signs and I've never had any problems with them until I started shipping them places. I have no idea how to fix these things and one of my customers told me the wire is detached from the transformer. Is this fixable?

Posted by kaybee71 4 years ago

blackberry tablet

Help! Is there a blackberry book for dumbies? I swiped all the information off my blackberry and can't get it to reconnect. Where is the best place to find troubleshooting problems for a  blackberry tablet or an easy to understand video?

Posted by p0llyw0lly 5 years ago

A computer problem

Ok. We were troubleshooting our vonage internet phone service when mom disconnected the phone and then I plugged it back. then, the keyboard and mouse failed and I had to reboot several times (wireless keyboard and mouse) any idea?

Posted by DJ Radio 10 years ago

voltage measurements

I need to make several voltage measurements simultaneously.  I am looking to troubleshoot a intermittent problem with my truck. Has anyone any experience with this challenge ?   I would like to be able to store these measurements to be analyzed at a later time. Thanks, Dave Sender.  

Posted by davesender 3 years ago

iTunes problem

This has NOTHING to do with instructables but i figured theres alot of smart people out there willing to share their wisdom with me. I cannot connect to the iTunes store but i can connect to the internet (CLICK!!) just like that. it says my network connection has timed out

Posted by computerfaker3 9 years ago

car speakers troubleshoot

Ok, so my back speakers of my car aren't working properly... they were working good for a while but aren't as of today... I brought both of them inside and connected them to a household stereo and they both work perfectly in that scenario but one works a lot better than the other in the car. speaker A works well when it is place on either the driver side or the passenger side, speaker B sounds weak and tinny when on either the driver side or the passenger side... Please help me out, i've been racking my brain trying to figure out why they arent working correctly in my car when they play perfectly in my house... and they are car speakers not house speakers

Posted by evillordnikon 9 years ago


This forum topic is for anyone who may need help witha a project. If you need help or want to colaborate, let me know. I and good at: soldering batch troubleshooting electronics coming up with ideas thinking of new improvements questions in general Depending on the amout of requests, it may take a while to reply. Hope to help! XOIIO

Posted by XOIIO 9 years ago

need help xbox 360 mod

Hey everyone i just modded my xbox controller using the simple xbox 360 mod by a guy who posted on this website.i have succesfully got my push button to fire but its at the same rate of speed as my trigger is. so im curious to know why it isnt rapid fire, or fully automatic? can some troubleshoot that be sweet thanks

Posted by helzbell 9 years ago

Fix the stubborn airplane mode in Windows 10

Since I got a Microsoft Update on pc, I got my airplane mode stuck to ON. I tried every possible solution provided by the internet but it got me nowhere. I tried troubleshooting it through Windows default troubleshooter, I went on to edit the registry files through registry editor, tweaked network and sharing centre but everything brought me nothing but failure.I had to reset my PC which uninstalled all of my installed programs, games and applications that were too important for me just because I thought this would set everything straight and I'll have my wireless connection back but again I got nothing out of it. You won't believe what actually the solution was. It was just a combination of the Function key and the Print Screen key that solved my problem. Earlier than this I used to have a wireless receiver to use the wifi as the inbuilt wifi was not working but this key combination enabled it and now I don't need any external wifi receiver to access the internet.

Posted by DianeBell 5 months ago


Sony Handycam DCR-TRV280 NTSC Error message: "reinsert the cassette"      Ok, I remove and reinsert it.... Same error message. So, I google and get this video: I don't really understand which pin they refer to removing and cleaning, so I try solution 2-remove battery for a while. It works for a short time, but the battery removal solution no longer works. Suggestions?

Posted by Toga_Dan 3 years ago

PIR Sensor troubleshooting

Hello there people of the internets, I'm an electronics newb, hoping someone can help me. I'm trying to trigger a 1.5-3 volt DC motor using a PIR sensor, without using a microcontroller.   I have the PIR sensor's output connected to an npn transmitter which triggers a 5v spdt relay to switch on the motor.  When testing the circuit with an LED, it works perfectly, turning the LED on when motion is detected.   When I swap the LED for the motor, the relay turns on the motor repeatedly every 6 seconds no matter whether there is motion or not. (it also may have killed the relay after about a minute or two) I tried a different circuit, using a transistor as a switch instead of a relay, which also works perfectly with an LED, but when the motor is connected instead, again the motor is turned on every 6 seconds without a care for the PIR output. What could I be doing wrong here?  I'm assuming that perhaps it has something to do with kickback from the motor...maybe? Anybody have any advice?  (Remember, no microcontroller!  As much as I'd love to try my hand at using arduino or the like, I can't afford to use a microcontroller for this particular project.)

Posted by yuck 7 years ago

Anyone know how to use their Android Phone as a Bootable USB Drive?

I have a Droid Phone and purchased a 32 GB SD card for it. I would love to be able to stop carrying the Bootable Flash Drive that I use to troubleshoot PC's (and often forget to bring, or leave when I am done) and instead carry a small USB cable that I can attach to my Droid and use that to boot to Yumi. Has anyone figured out how to do this yet?

Posted by grnerd 5 years ago

Downloading not working

I have an up-to-date premium subscription. When I click the Download button, the targeted Instructables file does not download. Hoping to receive advice how to troubleshoot this problem. Thanks. The attachment is a screen shot of my Chrome page after clicking the Download button. The icon in the lower left corner is the only result of clicking the button. When I open that icon, it asks what program I wish to use to open a file. (Well, been trying to upload it, but unable to do it. Attempting to get help at Instructables -- this is my third attempt -- is proving to be not only frustrating but ineffective.) Brian Chapman Cedar Rapids, Iowa

Posted by CyValley 1 year ago

Anyone able to help with a Raspberry Pi magic mirror configuration issue?

Hi, I'm building a raspberry pi Magic mirror using MichMich's program found here: The problem that I am having is that I can't get the clock and temperature to change to 12hr and Fahrenheit. I tried doing what it says here: But I still can't get it to change. Any help anyone can give would be greatly appreciated.

Posted by sir-zeke 1 year ago

Taking instructable requests what you'd like to see here, and I'll try to do it. I'm taking requests until...until I don't want to take requests anymore!I can do:Basic computing and troubleshootingWord processors, adobe pdf editorAudio relatedSome sculpting, painting, writing, drawingHow to draw instructables robotetc...these are just some of my many talents! :DSeriously, I may not be able to fulfill some requests, but I am more than willing to try! So what instructables would you like to see me do?

Posted by Lithium Rain 10 years ago

Type of diode

Hey everyone, I recently had an ASUS laptop to repair and after troubleshooting, found some damaged components among which is this surface mount diode (kindly see picture). I looked around for a datasheet but cannot find anything. Am also unable to find out exactly what type of diode it is from its code marking. I've had results varying from a 'leakage diode' to '3.3V zener diode'. However, I am suspecting it might be a schottky diode since it was in what looks like a boost circuit. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Code marking: 100 98FP1  j Thanking everyone in anticipation. Kind Regards, Nawaz

Posted by Nawaz 3 years ago

toy musical keyboard...How to fix?

I am new to Making and to instructables so bear with me. I recently bought an old toy musical keyboard at a garage sale. The nice ladies told me it would work with batteries but of course it does not. This is a no name (brandless) toy probably bought on the street in Hong Kong or something. Anyway, I would eventually like to get into circuit bending and the like but for now I would just like to try to understand how to fix the thing. Does anyone have any advice? Can you point me to a resource on how to troubleshoot this thing? I know I will probably need a multimeter and a soldering gun but other than that I am clueless. Thanks

Posted by miked3po 11 years ago

question regarding a western electric telegraph sounder

Hey all, I hope this is the right place, Ive been lurking instructables for years, but haven't posted in the forums before.  I am working on a project that involves an old western electric telegraph sounder...  I am having some issues and am trying to troubleshoot--when I put a meter on the two leads on each of the two coils, I get no continuity beep from my meter, and its reads 130 on screen...  What does this mean, aside from the obvious 130ohms of resistance?  I apologize as I know this is probably a no-brainer for a lot of you, I'm just bumbling through this stuff, figuring it out as I go. Thanks Michael

Posted by justanassembler 5 years ago

Need some help in the Ghetto (AVR programming)

So I got my old printer cable cut up and wired to a tidy DB9 connector, and I've rechecked all the wiring about 6 times, comparing my connections to all the pictures and the pinout schematics from the ATMEL website, and I'm convinced that everything is correct ( that's obviously the problem right there). Running WINAVR, compiling the LED_Demo program goes fine, but the software is not able to communicate with the ATTiny2313. I tested the connection with the avrdude commands (avrdude -p t2313 -c dapa -P lpt1 -n -v) and the results suggest that communications are just not happening. I tested the parallel port by hooking up the printer, and that went fine. I'm out of ideas as to what to check. Any help out there?

Posted by CTroyer 9 years ago

3v Relay Module and PIR sensor circuit troubleshoot

​Looking for help on my project.  See image.  Testing before connecting to high voltage device.  Using a 3v relay triiggered by the PIR signal.  As you see wired now, There is no ground wire coming from PIR.  The circuit would not trigger relay with a ground wire to the PIR.  When this does trigger I noticed on the relay that the LED would not go completely off.  So I check to find that when relay turns "off"  the PIR is still sending 2.8 volts to the relay.  Not enough to trigger the relay, but enough to show power through the LED.  Obviously something wrong here where the PIR or Relay are still drawing power.  Can you help?

Posted by DiyWaterDog 2 years ago

Snap Circuits IC's, can I get the same functions in a small IC?

Hi. My kid (and I) have recently started messing around with Snap Circuits. We have a specific project in mind and want to design the circuit using Snap Circuits, then shrink it to fit in an Altoids box. Question: Is there a direct facsimile available of the integrated chips in the Snap Circuits box? Meaning, the same input voltage and current, where I can assemble all the matching components to my Snap Circuits circuit (switches, resistors, capacitors), and then just switch in the new (small) IC for where the Snap Circuits IC goes. This would also help with troubleshooting. Any thoughts? Here is the Elenco supplied schematic description of the Snap Circuits' IC: Thanks!

Posted by BBBMMM111 3 years ago

Snap Circuits IC's, can I get the same functions in a small IC?

Hi. My kid (and I) have recently started messing around with Snap Circuits. We have a specific project in mind and want to design the circuit using Snap Circuits, then shrink it to fit in an Altoids box. Question: Is there a direct facsimile available of the integrated chips in the Snap Circuits box? Meaning, the same input voltage and current, where I can assemble all the matching components to my Snap Circuits circuit (switches, resistors, capacitors), and then just switch in the new (small) IC for where the Snap Circuits IC goes. This would also help with troubleshooting. Any thoughts? Here is the Elenco supplied schematic description of the Snap Circuits' IC:  

Posted by BBBMMM111 3 years ago

fixing my brothers theremin

My brother who has no electronics history bought a theremin kit from an Australian electronics store called jay car and or course it didn't work when he finished it, sp he gave it to me but in the electronics department i can only build kits with all the instructions there for me i dont know how to fix a problem with one. I have a multimeter here but im still completely not sure how to use it to find out whats wrong with the kit, it sounds dumb but i could post a picture of it but im pretty scure that would be pointless cos you wouldn't be able to see the components values. Can anyone give me some help in trying to figure out how to fix it cos i dont want to have to rebuy it and built it for him

Posted by craig3 10 years ago

Troubleshooting Christmas Mini-Light Strings

I searched Instructables to be certain I am not covering something someone else has already done, but found nothing.  Here is an excellent article on troubleshooting a bad string of Christmas mini-lights. (I do not know the author and am not connected to him in any way.)  I know of three occurrences of non-working light strings from this year's celebrations. In the first case, the woman who owns the Christmas tree simply bought a new string of lights and hung the new lights over the old string attached at the factory to her synthetic tree. I did not see her tree and cannot say what the cause of the malfunction was. In the second occurrence we put up a synthetic tree with two strings of factory installed lights, one for the bottom half of the tree and one for the top half of the tree. The string on the top half worked some of the time, but then would go out. Typically one suspects a bad bulb. That is also the general suggestion made in the very fine article I linked above. However, that proved not to be the problem. Rather, the problem was the very cheap electrical plug. I cut the plug from the string so I could open it and determine exactly where and how it failed in order to satisfy my own curiosity. Installing a new male plug solved the problem. In the third case, my daughter had a string near the top of her tree that was "out," but not completely at the top. I had limited tools and resources, but plugging the bad string into a different molded female plug brought it back to life. The moral of the story is that while a bad bulb is a frequent source of problems, the molded male and female plugs on these inexpensive light strings are often held together only by a lick and a promise, and fail easily. Giving the molded plugs a hard look is much easier and faster than removing and testing bulb after bulb. The first photo shows an extension cord with molded plugs from three strings plugged into the extension cord. The second photo shows the bad male plug on our tree, and I am using my multi-meter to test for continuity between the brass plug blade and the load end of one of the tiny fuses inside the plug. That part tests "good." The other fuse tested "good," too. In the third photo I inserted a straight pin into the wire and tested for a circuit from the brass blades to the wire. Both sides failed this test.  A multi-meter can easily test what I needed to find this problem. I would have needed to strip away some insulation from the wire or stick a straight pin through the wire to obtain a reading with my multi-meter. But, by this time I had bought a hum tester with a high and a low range for checking different voltage ranges on an AC circuit. It led me to know the plug was the problem. 

Posted by Phil B 5 years ago

Driving a Nook Simple Touch screen

Hello, I recently disassembled a Nook. I was going to fabricate a new case, root it and write a custom program, and present it as a prototype. However, the touch part of the touch screen no longer works. I have a few questions; answering any one of them will make me happy. 1) How can I hijack the touch interface? If I override the (broken) infrared touch input with a pen input, then that would be acceptable. However, I'm not sure whether the screen itself is broken, or if I broke something on the board from static discharge. 2) How can I troubleshoot and fix the touch interface? Speaks for itself. How can I get this working again? 3) Where can I find information on how to use this screen separately? My last option is to separate the screen and the touch completely, and build another tablet from scratch. Much appreciated! ~Ryan

Posted by ryanthejuggler 6 years ago

Video playback

I've recently noticed that embedded Vimeo-hosted videos don't play in Firefox 47. While they don't even show In SRWare Iron or SlimBrowser,  in Firefox the video window is visible and sets up ready to play, but when moused over it displays a meaningless error ("Curses!", "Aw fiddlesticks!", etc.) claiming "This video can't be played with your current setup". "Leg for a wooden table (incredible strength)" is a recent 'ible example. If I go through the process of searching the page source code for the video ( in the above example), copy and paste the URL, and go to the link directly, the video plays perfectly, so it's not some browser or other setting that's blocking Vimeo. (Even tried with all browser add-ons disabled - no joy.) I'm not competent enough to troubleshoot the issue, but it's frustrating to have to dissect the page to play embedded videos in a separate tab. Any work around would be appreciated. Thanks.

Posted by Philbert D 2 years ago

Stepper motor+keypad+LCD screen setup? Need help ASAP...

The goal of my project is to input the code for a combination lock onto a keypad, and have the stepper motor move accordingly.   I currently have two codes. One code just handles the motor, which works fine. The second code handles all three devices. The Keypad and LCD work as expected in the second code, but when we get to the motor it gets stuck. I have tried all the troubleshooting I know how to do, and have come up with no viable results as to where the problem lies. You can access the Google Drive folder with both of these codes here.;=sharing If you need anymore information please feel free to ask! The code needs to be done as soon as I can manage,  so all help is appreciated smiley

Posted by TheReverb 4 years ago

Instructors Wanted - Circuit Bending, Creative Electronics, Arts, Crafts, etc... (Williamsburg, Bk)

We are seeking p/t instructors for various classes to be held at our location.  We are looking for instructors who are knowledgeable, creative, patient, and experienced in the classes they will be teaching (either professional or self-taught). Hours vary, but primarily consist of evening and weekend scheduling.  Pay is based on level of experience, class type, and class schedule. - Circuit Bending (Basics to Advance) - Creative Electronics (Basics to Advance) - Arts & Crafts (all levels) - Electronic Repairs / Service / Test / Troubleshoot (Basics to Advance) We are conveniently located in the Williamsburg Brooklyn (Broadway @ Marcy Ave), @ the Marcy Ave J, M, Z stop. Please include the class you'd like to teach, your experience level, relevant degrees, affiliations, any resumes/cv (professional and/or self taught) and a sample curriculum (can by on anything).  We also need to know your availability, and salary requirements. Thank you for your interest. TERMiNAL 347.725.0343 terminalbrooklyn (at) gmail . com

Posted by terminalbrooklyn 8 years ago

[Raspberry Pi] Does anyone have WiFi working with RetroPie?

In short, I have two Raspberry Pis - one running the regular distribution of Raspbian, and one running RetroPie, which is built on top of Raspbian. I got the popular Edimax EW-7811Un USB wifi adapter, which worked like a charm right away with regular Raspbian, but for the life of me I cannot get it to work with RetroPie*. I've gone through various troubleshooting steps, and already posted a more detailed description on the official Raspberry Pi forums (thread here if you're interested in the responses yet).  Just curious if anyone here has run into the same issue, and if you found a workaround. I'm a complete Linux amateur so keeping any explanations beginner-friendly would be much appreciated. Thanks! *This isn't for online gaming, I want to be able to do other things like voice control on the same machine, which requires internet access.

Posted by Ben Finio 4 years ago

Job Opening: Instructor & Teaching Assistants for BlueStamp Engineering

About The Program: BlueStamp Engineering is a summer program in New York, NY, Houston, TX, and San Francisco, CA where high school students individually build engineering projects. Students select and build a project of interest (e.g. solar powered electronics, robots, GPS devices, mini wind turbines, etc.)with a motto of "learning by doing". Students go through the entire process of making the devices and support their work with full documentation. Projects have a wide degree of difficulty, from electronics kits customized designs. Please visit our 'Meet The Students' page  to see what previous students have built.  For detailed information about the 2013 program, please visit our 'Info' page. BlueStamp is looking for independent, motivated, kind, and technical people to join our 2013 staff.  We will hire one 'Lead Instructor' and two 'Teaching Assistants' in San Francisco for part-time summer work. Strong performers may be offered the opportunity to take on a more prominent role as the program expands. Position Responsibilities: -All staff will assist students in creating their projects.  This will include teaching engineering techniques and concepts, tools and safety, technical documentation, and troubleshooting methods. Instructors/TA's will guide students to ideas, approaches, and sources of solutions without "just doing it for them". -The Instructor will be responsible for guiding class everyday, ensuring students meet project requirements on time, and supervising the TAs. The instructor will also engage students a month before the program begins, spending 2-8 hours per week over phone/email to help students select a project and order the required parts. -TAs will supplement the instructor's experience in guiding students as all 3 staff members will come from different engineering disciplines. -Where qualified, staff will give lectures and lead discussions regarding topics of student interest (e.g. Alternative Energy, Electronics, Automotives, Entrepreneurship, World Challenges, etc.) Candidate Requirements: -Education and practical experience in one or more of the following three areas: (1) Electronics Hardware, (2) Firmware/Software, (3) Mechanical Design and Drafting. -Extensive experience with building, designing, and troubleshooting devices or prototypes for school, work, or as a hobby. Applicants should be able to showcase and discuss, in depth, any of their projects. -Skilled in troubleshooting problems and using the engineering tools of their discipline. -Experience teaching/leading students (e.g. instructor roles, youth camps, tutoring, mentoring, etc.). -Ability to think and act quickly on a project to identify solutions that can meet goals on a rigid, aggressive schedule. -Desire to share the excitement of designing and engineering with high school students, while motivating students through the challenging and frustrating stages of prototype construction. -Excellent communication skills, unfettered honesty and integrity, and the ability to work with minimal supervision is a must. -Be the type of person that can "Get Things Done" Program Logistics: -Class meets Monday-Friday for 6 weeks for 4 hours per day starting in San Francisco on 6/10, Houston on 6/17, and New York on 6/24 (excluding 4th of July). -TAs will be paid $13 - $16 per hour, Instructors will be paid a stipend of $4,000-$5,000.  All staff are paid as a contractor and are eligible for a significant performance-based bonus. -Each class will be made of 10-12 motivated students who have passed a rigorous application process. -All staff must pass a background check. To Apply: Submit a resume to our 'Contact Us' page.

Posted by dyoung41 5 years ago

Digita Media Enthusiast/Tech Support Specialist

Job description ABOUT PAI PAI is a community rich in culture and diversity, distinguished by its high level of job satisfaction. We believe that our team members are our most valuable assets, so we recognize and reward great performance. We believe in open communication and foster an environment of creativity, loyalty and respect both for employees and clients alike. THE BIG PICTURE Do you like to get into in-depth trouble-shooting that would revolve around TiVo, DVR, or multiple types of digital video media? Do you excel in communicating with people in both a technical and non-technical way? Are you known for thinking outside the box when it comes to creative trouble-shooting solutions? If so, there’s a strong possibility you’d fit in well with an exciting new project at PAI. As Team Leader, you’ll assist in providing first-and second-level customer support for the full line of video media software products for our newest client. You and your team will interface with customers via telephone and email to provide troubleshooting, patches and/or bug fixes, version upgrades and software use tips. Ensuring the highest level of customer satisfaction is key, and will be measured by providing quality issue resolution within the established response time intervals and service level standards. DESIRED EXPERIENCE/QUALIFICATIONS • Basic professional understanding of video standards such as NTSC and PAL, frames and fields, and frame rate and basic video signals such as composite, S-video, Component, SDI and DV. • Basic understanding of broadcast digital video formats and compression such as Standard Definition, High Definition, MPEG-2, GOP Structure, Program and Transport Stream, as well as popular internet streaming, and download and desktop media formats such as Windows Media, Real Networks, QuickTime, MPEG-l, MP3, MPEG-4, etc. • Understanding of audio channels, digital audio sample size sample rates. • Understanding of non-linear video editing concepts. • Familiarity or use of a content management system or digital asset repository THE EVERYDAY VIEW • Phone, Email, and Remote Desktop support to resolve client issues, • Lead a professional team in providing world class support to leading industry customers • Verify and escalate bug reports to Engineering for resolution • Document problems/resolutions for internal/external knowledge base articles. • Effectively communicate with customers, both written and orally, to manage expectations through the trouble-shooting and issue resolution process. WE’RE LOOKING FOR SOMEONE WITH: • Excellent trouble-shooting/problem solving skills with high attention to details and good follow-through. • Excellent written and oral communication skills. • Ability to install and configure Windows Operating Systems. • Basic hardware, software, operating system and device driver troubleshooting skills. • Basic understanding of MS SQL and/or Oracle server installation and configuration. • Basic Linux/Unix installation and administration skills. • Understanding of Windows File Systems, configuring IIS, JBOSS, Apache, File permissions and Disk management. • Ability to troubleshoot basic networking and connectivity issues including TCP/IP, DHCP and DNS. • Ability to effectively work with a variety of personalities and occasional stressful situations. • Ability to multi-task under time constraints. • Able to work Evening and Late Night shifts. • Experience providing support within a Network Operations Center environment, • Digital Media or related Software or Production Service or 2+ years Digital Media Encoding/Production Experience.  To apply:  Cindy Law HR Manager 858-495-3525

Posted by clawpaisd 8 years ago

circuit troubleshooting help

Hi- First on an unrelated note, does anyone besides me see "A fatal, non-recoverable error has occurred" over on the Makezine forums when you try to sign in? I've been getting that for weeks! Anyway... I'm working on a variable power supply that uses a 317 to regulate the 18 volts coming from a laptop switching supply. There are two 5k 10-turn (for precision) pots with a switch so that you can have two "preset" voltages and switch between the two of them at will. There's a single output. There's also a little lamp (I used a micro mini 12v lamp instead of an LED because that's what I had) that goes on above the pot that's currently switched in. The circuit I built (schematic is below) seems to work more or less fine. 'cept there's two strange issues: First, although the pots are linear (not sure if that would make the difference or not), they seem to "flatten out" toward their upper range. The first six turns gets you from 1.2 to about 16.5 volts. Then the last four turns either don't change anything or they do so in _very_ fine increments so that you only get from 16.5 to just over 17 volts. That's in four whole turns of the knob. This happens for both pots. The second stange thing is that turning the non-activated pot will affect the current voltage. When you increase the resistance (turn the knob to the right), the voltage level actually drops! Conversely, turning it to the left will increase the voltage. Remember, this is the switched-off pot. The switched-on pot works as it should (barring the mentioned weirdnesses). It looks like how much the voltage changes depends on how many turns you've given the activated pot. I suspect this has to do with me using a SPDT switch instead of a DPDT and maybe some voltage / current bleeding through the lamps and into the adjust pin, or something. But I ca/n't figure out why the switched-off pot would do anything. Anyway, take a look at the schematic. Is there anything I've done wrong that I'm missing? Should I, um, switch (*cough*) to a DPDT switch (something like the second schematic)? I used the SPDT cuz that's what I had. Anyy help is appreciated, Thanks!

Posted by deadbilly 10 years ago

Troubleshooting usb powerbank 3 IR LED setup

I am an amateur with setting up circuits, but I am really interested and understand most electronics, I am just confused with the issue I am having. Background:  I am building a wireless google cardboard so that I can play PC games on my phone through the VR headset rather than crappy app games. Basically a wireless Oculus Rift, however I know it wont be anywhere near as good it's just a fun project. I have Infrared LEDs which I will use with freetrack and my modified webcam without IR filter to do my head tracking. Issue: I am trying to power 3x Infrared LEDs from a usb powerpack. Here is the one I am using;=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 The reason for using this as a power source is I can easily attach it to the headstraps on the google cardboard, it is just about the smallest power setup I can think of (better than using 3x AA batteries), it was cheap, and it outputs 5v which is perfect for powering 3x IR LEDs with a forward voltage of 1.6v and 60mA current. When I use this powerbank to power a single LED without a resistor and I look at it through my webcam, even with all the lights off and the webcam 5mm away from the LED you can barely see it light up. I tried the led on another powerbank I have here which is 10,000mAh so it is massive, and it was much brighter on the webcam. I then used my samsung TV remote and pressed a button while aiming at the webcam and it was EXTREMELY bright. Basically I want the LED to be as bright as my remote, or as much as the LED is capable of. Why would the powerbank show the LED so dull? I have confirmed it is outputting 5v, but when I try test the current with a 'usb charger doctor' between the charger and usb cable, or a multimeter between the wire and the LED it shows zero current. I should be able to just connect all LED in series with a small resistor and it should just work at full brightness, but the power bank cannot even power a single LED well enough to see properly on the webcam. It's becoming really frustrating, any idea what's happening? Best solution?

Posted by dom.curulli 3 years ago

Help with MAX232 Serial Converter troubleshooting?

Ok..long story short.. built this Instructable: (minimal Arduino on poerfboard,.  w/ blank Atmel) I put this on a breaboard instead I then installed Arduino IDE, as well as WinAVR/avrdude I tried to build a parallel programmer: but it didnt work.. (not sure if it because of WinAVR?avrdue setting?  but command line AND flashing bootloader through Arduino IDE did NOT WORK.. AVRDUDE gives this response: avrdude: can't open device "giveio" avrdude: failed to open parallel port "lpt1" pinout for parallel programm was as follows: PP     ATMEL  (pinout) 1    -  19 2    -  17 11  -  18 16  -  1 18  -  GND on breadboard*** no clue even Ive asked and googled.. couldnt find a 'real' solution to this.. so I looked around..and I found a couple MAX232 chips laying around..figured Id use these to build a Serial Converter using this tut: I this all set-up on my breadboard: (pics to check what Im doing wrong) *******(the images shows the vRegulator moved over 1 has been corrected but after pic was taken) I have checked the vRegulator portion..  I have a cap BEFORE the regulator  *bridging GND & output* and I use my meter to check that there is, in fact, 5v coming from it..  and there is... HOWEVER...  the vRegulator gets SUPER HOT, SUPER FAST!... if I dis-connect the pin 16 form the  chip to the ++ then the vRegulator does NOT get hot... once I bridge it.. instant HEAT.. so is it something I have done wrong in my diagram? vRegulator not show in diagram here;; in this diagram.. as soon as I hook up the V++ to pin16 on the chip.. and the cap..etc  something is wrong?? I 'do' have some FTDI cables coming from China for a few bucks.. but this is ONLY for sketch uploading...correct? I also have a true Arduino Due coming as well... but hate waiting weeks when I want to play and get started now! Any help is appreciated..   Im new to all this, so be nice!  LOL thanks gang!

Posted by xl97 8 years ago

Videos not showing, and cannot remove/ edit videos

Hi troubleshooting team, Here's my info: Windows 8 Firefox 51.0.1 (32-bit) This Instructable, and others I've made, was created many UI revisions ago (back when a "Video Instructable" was a creation option). When I try to load it, a blank space appears where the video should go. There's no way to access the video from the Instructable editor, not even in the HTML. Also, the title image doesn't appear. This appears to only be an issue for Firefox on Windows. I've tried Chrome, Firefox, and Safari on OSX (those work) and MS Edge on Windows (also works). Haven't tried Chrome on Windows. I'd like to know how to be able to remove the video so I can just add YouTube's html code. This is occurring with several of my Instructables. I was alerted to this issue by another user who noticed that a video seemed to be missing, so I feel confident that it's not caused by an issue with my PC. Thanks for looking into this!

Posted by LanceMakes 1 year ago

LED burnout

I've have an LED problem that I have done extensive reading and troubleshooting on but I can't seem to solve it. I'm running 4 super bright white LEDs (NTE30071) in parallel from a 24v 600mA DC wall wart. The LEDs are 4V, 25mA. I need that wall wart to also run a solenoid. When a button is pressed a relay powers the lights and the solenoid for a few seconds. The problem is my LEDs keep dying. At first I had a 10K ohms 1/4W resistor on each and I lost 3 LEDs. After more study and calculation just replaced them with 1K ohms 1/2W resistors. After a few more hours I lost another. When I removed the 10K ohms resistors they read 1K ohms. And I just tested the one on the 1K ohms resistor that went out and it reads 200 ohms. I know there is something that I just don't get; something basic that highlights my lack of any electronics experience. I appreciate any help you can give, this is just is just wearing me down.

Posted by robotninjasquid 11 years ago

Good kits?

Off in another thread we were talking about goodkits being a good way to get your feet wet with the practicalities of electronics: how to solder, what the individual bits look like, and so on. I was lamenting the demise of Heathkit - many a engineer in my generation had their first electronics experience putting together one of Heath's kits, using their excellent instructions.So anyway, what kits are available today that offer the hobbyist a "good" and educational building experience? The kits should have good quality PCBs and components, instructions that go far beyond "solder all the components to the board in the places indicated by the silkscreen", and hopefully some amount of theory on how the thing works, and how to troubleshoot it if it's NOT working.I'll recommend:Lady Ada's stuff - I'm not sure I'm wild about online vs printed instructions, but it certainly gives you a good chance to see what you're getting into before you order anything, and it probably permits a higher level of quality in the instructions than it would be cost-effective to have printed.2Dkits Blinkies - a more limited selection, 2dkits specializes in neat little LED badge-like things

Posted by westfw 10 years ago

Posting go into the digital nirvana - AGAIN

I just finnished a lenghy reply, hit the "Make Comment" button and after a short wait my posting was gone, just totally gone! Going back in the browser did not bring it back either. To make things worse I could not write this complaint in Firefox as it is impossible to select the categories, so instead I had to fire up Chrome to make this posting. This exact behaviour of posting going lost during the sending period happend before and was supposed to be fixed. Yes, I did the usual troubleshooting of browser cache, history, dns and so on - but that is of no use anyway one you lost a posting. I don't know about others but I am starting to get sick and tired of bugs making the proper use of this website impossible. Am also sick and tired of being forced to create my postings and Ibles in an external editor just because Instructables collects more bugs than users at some stages. Said it before and say it again: If you can't fix the damn Autodesk software properly just just a forum software that is proven to work properly! Getting far too frustrating here :(

Posted by Downunder35m 3 years ago

I need your help with a computer speaker amp

Hey guys, I need your help with troubleshooting a problem that I have with a pair of amped speakers that I purchased at a yard sale ($1.00!). They are Koss SX50 computer speakers, and when I turn the switch to turn the amp on; everything goes dead. There are two speakers; each powered by 2 C-Cell batteries. This is how they were powered when they were in their Koss enclosure. I disassembled them to get rid of the ugly case. Now, this morning instead of using a coin cell, I connected two C-cells to the speakers. This gave a little bit of sound to the left speaker. However, as soon as I hit the amp switch to on - all the sound turned off.Here is a link to my gallery of photos of the circuit - I do not have in the picture the second speaker with the other 3V source: the picture you will see the two-female jacks that connect to the other speaker.I tested each speaker with the batteries hooked up and I don't get any reading of voltage. This is with the amp turned on and off.Thanks folks

Posted by Brennn10 9 years ago

Programming Atmega8 using arduino troubleshooting

I am making a POV (persistance of vision) project using atmega8 ,which is being programmed by arduino (uno) as ISP i am following this tutorial videos and blink led code is working well   for me as in the video, I tired the same code by changing the delay for verifying whether the circuit works properly  and i was working nice But i uploaded my persistance of vision code(POV) its no working   none of the leds is blinking I using the correct pin i verified it with arduino uno atmega8 pin mapping Here is my Persistance of vision code int _[] = {0,0,0,0,0, 0,0,0,0,0, 0,0,0,0,0}; int A[] = {0,1,1,1,1, 1,0,1,0,0, 0,1,1,1,1}; int B[] = {1,1,1,1,1, 1,0,1,0,1, 0,1,0,1,0}; int C[] = {0,1,1,1,0, 1,0,0,0,1, 1,0,0,0,1}; int D[] = {1,1,1,1,1, 1,0,0,0,1, 0,1,1,1,0}; int E[] = {1,1,1,1,1, 1,0,1,0,1, 1,0,1,0,1}; int F[] = {1,1,1,1,1, 1,0,1,0,0, 1,0,1,0,0}; int G[] = {0,1,1,1,0, 1,0,1,0,1, 0,0,1,1,0}; int H[] = {1,1,1,1,1, 0,0,1,0,0, 1,1,1,1,1}; int I[] = {0,0,0,0,1, 1,0,1,1,1, 0,0,0,0,1}; int J[] = {1,0,0,0,0, 1,0,0,0,1, 1,1,1,1,1}; int K[] = {1,1,1,1,1, 0,0,1,0,0, 0,1,0,1,1}; int L[] = {1,1,1,1,1, 0,0,0,0,1, 0,0,0,0,1}; int M[] = {1,1,1,1,1, 0,1,1,0,0, 0,1,1,1,1}; int N[] = {1,1,1,1,1, 1,0,0,0,0, 0,1,1,1,1}; int O[] = {0,1,1,1,0, 1,0,0,0,1, 0,1,1,1,0}; int P[] = {1,1,1,1,1, 1,0,1,0,0, 0,1,0,0,0}; int Q[] = {0,1,1,1,1, 1,0,0,1,1, 0,1,1,1,1}; int R[] = {1,1,1,1,1, 1,0,1,0,0, 0,1,0,1,1}; int S[] = {0,1,0,0,1, 1,0,1,0,1, 1,0,0,1,0}; int T[] = {1,0,0,0,0, 1,1,1,1,1, 1,0,0,0,0}; int U[] = {1,1,1,1,1, 0,0,0,0,1, 1,1,1,1,1}; int V[] = {1,1,1,1,0, 0,0,0,0,1, 1,1,1,1,0}; int W[] = {1,1,1,1,0, 0,0,1,1,0, 1,1,1,1,0}; int X[] = {1,1,0,1,1, 0,0,1,0,0, 1,1,0,1,1}; int Y[] = {1,1,0,0,0, 0,0,1,0,0, 1,1,1,1,1}; int Z[] = {1,0,0,1,1, 1,0,1,0,1, 1,1,0,0,1}; int letterSpace; int dotTime; void setup() {   // setting the ports of the leds to OUTPUT   pinMode(2, OUTPUT);   pinMode(3, OUTPUT);   pinMode(4, OUTPUT);   pinMode(5, OUTPUT);   pinMode(6, OUTPUT);   // defining the space between the letters (ms)   letterSpace = 6;   // defining the time dots appear (ms)   dotTime = 3; } void printLetter(int letter[]) {   int y;   // printing the first y row of the letter   for (y=0; y<5; y++)   {     digitalWrite(y+2, letter[y]);   }   delay(dotTime);   // printing the second y row of the letter   for (y=0; y<5; y++)   {     digitalWrite(y+2, letter[y+5]);   }   delay(dotTime);   // printing the third y row of the letter   for (y=0; y<5; y++)   {     digitalWrite(y+2, letter[y+10]);   }   delay(dotTime);   // printing the sspace between the letters   for (y=0; y<5; y++)   {     digitalWrite(y+2, 0);   }   delay(letterSpace); } void loop() {   // you can print your own text by modifing here :) printLetter(H); printLetter(E); printLetter(L); printLetter(L); printLetter(O); printLetter(_);   } Is there any solution ???

Posted by Mayoogh_Girish 3 years ago

Looking For Instructors - Circuit Bending, Creative Electronics, Arts, Crafts, Painting, etc... (Williamsburg, Bk)

NO EXPERIENCE NECESSARY - Just be EXCELLENT at what you do, and be able to teach others your skill(s)! We are seeking p/t instructors for various classes to be held at our location. We are looking for instructors who are knowledgeable, creative, patient, and experienced (either professional or self-taught) in the classes they will be teaching. Hours vary, but primarily consist of evening and weekend scheduling.  Pay is based on level of experience, class type, and class schedule (ranges from $40-100/hr). - Circuit Bending (Basics to Advance) - Creative Electronics (Basics to Advance) - Arts & Crafts (all levels) - Electronic Repairs / Service / Test / Troubleshoot (Basics to Advance) - Painting - Sewing / Embroidery - Jewelry Design / Silversmithing - Printmaking (lithography, dies, monoprinting, etc) You get the picture! We are conveniently located in the Williamsburg Brooklyn (Broadway @ Marcy Ave), @ the Marcy Ave J, M, Z stop. Please include the class you'd like to teach, your experience level, relevant degrees (not required, but a +), affiliations, any resumes/cv (professional and/or self taught) and a simple sample curriculum (can by on anything).  We also need to know your availability, and salary requirements. Thank you for your interest. TERMiNAL 347.725.0343 terminalbrooklyn (at) gmail . com

Posted by terminalbrooklyn 8 years ago

First project let's expand it!

My wife is interested in ghost hunting shows like TAPS and Ghost Hunters International. She even joined a local Paranomal Society. The first thing she wanted to buy was an EMF detector for a whopping $175. Now, I don't believe in ghosts, but I support my wife, so instead of buying her an OTS EMF detector, I decided to build her this one. Thanks Computergeek! Oddly, the first thing that popped into my head when I finished building the Arduino EMF detector was a quote from Keano Reeves from Point Break, "I caught my first tube today....Sir." It's appropriate though, in the sense that he was just getting started in the bank robbery investigations. I'm pretty happy with this build...I had a couple of issues in hardware and code that I was able to troubleshoot myself. And it all works! So this was pretty easy, even for a newbie. Now, what I want to do is add a data logger that records values to flash memory. You can probably see where I'm going with this (as a non-believer). If you remove the human element from the situation, is there still paranomal activity? Or put another way, if a tree falls down in the middle of the forest and no one is around to hear it...does it still make noise? If anyone has any ideas, tips, or suggesstions, I'd love to hear them. Thanks for a great online community! LorienD  

Posted by LorienD 7 years ago

Uncharted Play is looking for talent

The creators of the SOCCKET, the first energy-harvesting soccer ball, are currently seeking creative thinkers with engineering backgrounds for our our 12-week Product Development Internship Program. All associates will be working on Uncharted Play's new product lines, as part of a multidisciplinary team of engineers and designers. The program is based in New York City. Scheduling is flexible, with a minimum of 20 hours per week required. As this is an unpaid internship, school credit may be offered as compensation, as well as consideration for joining our team after program's end.  Openings: Mechanical Engineer, Electrical Engineer, Operations Engineer Personal Characteristics: Go-Getter Attitude Fast Learner Creative Thinker Problem Solver Technical Aptitudes (Mechanical Engineer): Excellent visualization and 3D CAD skills Demonstrable Prototyping skills Knowledge of manufacturing processes Product development experience is desirable Knowledge of Design for Manufacturing knowledge is a plus Technical Aptitudes (Electrical Engineer): Ability to design, develop, test and troubleshoot analog and digital circuits Demonstrable prototyping skills Robotics experience is desirable Experience in the DIY community is a plus Technical Aptitudes (Operations Engineer): Knowledge of Supply Chain Management principles Willingness to interact with suppliers, both domestically and internationally Ability to construct models and metrics for operational efficiency Experience in the manufacturing industry is a plus If you are interested in becoming a Product Development Associate, please email your cover letter, resume and a brief example of your technical and/or creative skills to with "Product Development Candidate" in the subject line. You will be contacted within 7 business days on the status of your application.

Posted by vangelUP 5 years ago