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Posted by randofo 6 months ago  |  last reply 2 days ago


Arduino autonomous and remote controlled car

Hello everyone,I'm currently trying to design a small control two wheel robot (similar to an ollie by sphero) that is capable to be moved remotely or can be coded to follow a set of instructions if it is not being controled by the user. I heard from many of my colleges arduinos are the best way to go but I have no idea where to start, any feedback or advice would be helpful.

Posted by donayre21 19 hours ago


A little magnet experiment for everyone!

Some people just love to play with magnets and have a lot of them.If you are just like that and like to tinker a bit then I might have something for you.What magnets you use for the following experiment does not really matter but you should have 20 or 30 of identical properties.Can be disk magnets, block magnets or cubes, just not spheres ;)If you have a 3D printer you use it to make it fancy but a peice of wood, acrylic or such and a drill will do for round magnets.For cubes or flat packs you can make retaining walls on a flat surface.The experiment goes like this:I assume you already tried ways to combine your magnets to make them stronger, like stacking them up.But there is another way to really increase how strong they are combined.Start with one magnet at the center.Then like a ring add more magnets around it but with the oppisite side up.The created mounting solution is to prevent them flipping up and together, you want them as close as possible though.Add another ring and change the direction of the field again.Try this magnet, once all magnets are secured and compare the holding strenght to any other combo you tried so far.It will be much higher for the same amount of magnets.If you want to prevent the use of glue then try to create your mounting system with a really flat but strong enough bottom - this will then be the contact surface.Slightly reduced strength but you can re-use magnet with ease.But if you want to get a really strong one you need cube magnets.Like before you want to create some sort of grid, this time we go for a square.Start with cube in the center, facing north up.Leave enough space in your construction to add 8 more cubes around it - like on the face of a rubik's cube.Leave them empty for now !Add nother row, this time 16 to keep the square.Of course these one go with the south side facing up!Again one empty of 48 and then one last one with north side up with 196 magnets.Ok, to be fair, you wouldn't be able to pull it off a metal surface unless you used really tiny cubes, so if in doubt then go for just to 48 and leave the enter one out for now.Should be quite intense but similar to what any other shaped magnet would have done.Time to fill the voids!Add the cubes in the spce between the magnets so the north and south side face the magnets next to it!So basically sideways but in the correct orientation.You can then also add the center piece - try either orientation for that one ;)What happened now is that you forced the magnetic field lines to go up instead od for trying to go the easiest and shortest way to the next magnet.And "up" is where our magnetic surface would be, which provides the now overdue shortcut for the magnetic fields.Be amased how much stronger this version is and how much even 3x3x3 cubes would accomplish.With 10x10x10mm N52 magnets you might be able to use them support our wieght if you pull straight dwon from a horizontal surface...Ok, kidding, not just might, unless you are really big...One 10x10x10 might hold about 6kg.Stacked up a bit more but having 20 or stcked up would not be much stronger than 10.Even just 25 magnets with one in the center, one row of sideways orientated and one row with opposing field to the center one would be hard to remove from a steel surface.If we go with the imagined 6kg per magnet we could assume to get 25 x 6 = 150kg of holding power.Check you single magnet first then compare to the square of 25 ;)Consider using some plastic between magnet and surface so you can at least slide or pry it off if you have to.You can also combine magnets or a new one that has one side appear much stronger than the other.Meaning that for example on the north side it could hold 20kg while on the south side only 5.

Posted by Downunder35m 1 day ago


Please help Electronic (problem in power bank)

One of a resistance it's blow up in the power bank and i don't have the number of it !! and I could not find any scheme for this Motherboard of power bank and chip that use in this power bank is mt4606 and name of this Motherboard is yd178_b

Posted by maatoubi 1 day ago  |  last reply 17 hours ago


Webcam module pins layout

Which are the pins of this camera HP PN 692893?thanks!

Posted by christ479 1 day ago  |  last reply 17 hours ago


Webcam module pins layout

Which are the pins of this camera HP PN 692893?thanks!

Posted by christ479 1 day ago


Arduin

Can I control arduino from my pc via wifi ?

Posted by Ha_mido 1 day ago  |  last reply 1 day ago


HOW TO SETUP 5 UNIT OF 3 PHASE WIND TURBINE 2KW 48V TO 10KW 240V HOME

Hai... I need some solution... I'm not a electrical engineering... so, there are 5 unit of 3 phase wind turbine, with rate output up to 2Kw, 48V each... and I need to produce current load for home about 7Kw to 9Kw, 240V,,, so, how to wiring from 5 unit of wind turbine to home current...sorry for my english and thank you...

Posted by zeak1975 1 day ago  |  last reply 1 day ago


Western Hemlock Project Boards?

I’m looking for some Western Hemlock project boards, but can’t find any stores in the area that have it or will order for me. Also striking out with online stores. Any suggestions on where to find this? It’s the state tree of WA, and I want to use it for a project related to my home state. Now we live in TX and I can’t find it anywhere.

Posted by jpmarth 3 days ago  |  last reply 3 days ago


Limp home mode for automobil

I hope if i could find someone who have some interesting documents could help me for makin a good limp home mode to controle vehicle loads in the fail safe mode.best regards

Posted by YoussefM46 4 days ago


Unable to create instructable, keeps erroring when I try to enter a title.

I am trying to create an instructable but get an error when entering the title. It gives me this message "Oops! We couldn't understand your request. Please contact us to tell us as much detail as possible about what you were trying to do when this happened". I have tried using both firefox and chrome browsers and get the same message. Is the site having problems at the moment? Appreciate any help, thanks.

Posted by parsons_woodcrafts 4 days ago  |  last reply 4 days ago


The Newman Motor Challenge !

I was recently approached by someone claiming the old Newman Motor wouldn't be good for anything.Well, I was a little bit offended by this as I already had my little toy version of it as kid.At that time though it really was just a toy for me.Critics still say the Newman Motor is nothing more than some interesting machine.And even the biggest followers will admit it is not a free energy machine, just a very efficient one.I experimented with, what some call fringe science, now for about 30 years.And it all started with math and my interest in unusual ways of dealing with problems.So what's behind the challenge?The original design was suprisingly simple as you can see in the above Wiki link.Just a spinning magnet in a (split) coil.What you don't find anywhere though is real details on the how to.Sure, you need to have some sort of contact linked to the rotation and timing is critical but what does it all do?You can build a drt simple model in a few hours with stuff you might have around already.Quite a few Youtubers are happy to share their creations.The actual challenge is to come up with what Newman really did inside his drum.And also why I think it is not the full potential his machine had.Build a simple Newman motor and check for how long you can let it run on a charge super capacitor.Then sit back and read some of the other magnet stuff I wrote.After that come up with a better design ;)I started to create some 3D models that need testing once I find more free time - should take some leave one day..But for those with little patience and an interest in the Newman Motor I decided to share my current idea:For some it might be really confusing although they know motors and magnetic fields.Those just playing with magnets might have it easier for once as they can pretend they followed my thoughts ;)The original design used two coils and a rotating magnet.If you consider how the magnet creates an electromagntic field in the coils then you have to wonder right away how it can spin.And most designs will indeed need a push start to get going!You can't have electricity produced without the magnet spinning and you can't make it spin without electricity!The current from the battery or capacitor can only flow at the short moment of contact on the axle.This moment needs to be timed "mechanical" as we don't want to waste any power on not required electronics.If you ever bothered to check the timing of a Newman Motor then you realised the collapsing electromagnetic field at the moment of contact actually is in reverse to what the manget has in that position.Unlike any normal motor it means the magnet produces most of the power the coil needs to make the rotor spin!So far for the well known facts, now for my fiction:I would like to call my version the Aussie Newman Motor as all things downunder are just different ;)Here are my current desing mods, that I freely share so everyone can benefit form many years of experimenting to save a lot of time.1. Instead of two coils a not-really-bifilar coil is centered on the axle.The coil is created like two stacked relay coild that have no bobbin and a "dint" to allow the axle to pass through.Without the big gap of the original less of the magnetic field strenght is lost and the coil is far closer to a homogenous magnet.2. The timing done by salvaging a simple DC motor's contacts and brushes.This allows for far higher currents and if the salvaged motor had enough poles also for a very short "burst".3. The axle contact is made with a cleaned steel bearing.After cleaning very conductive copper based lubricant is used in tiny amounts to prevent corrosion and provide a lower resistance.The clear benefit is that with the new timing system a lot more current can flow.Initial tests with a mock up model showed an increase in run time from the capacitor of about 15% already.With proper bearings and a salvaged DC motor I hope to reach 18 to 20% more than the original design.Now why the DC motor if a reed contact or hall effect sensor would be even faster and with less resistence?Neither can handle really high currents without additional electronics ;)Plus of course I wanted to leave the door open for the Aussie Newman Motor 2020.You might now say "Why bother if the above improvements are already so great?".If you followed my elsewhere for a while then you know the Newman Motor is only 2D but I prefer 3D or more harmony if you like.Right now the imagination of people re-inventing Newman's machine is limited.They try to get on the horse from behind - literally.Fancy electronics, machined parts and so on.But they never go 3D ;)You got it? :)There is only two coils!!The magnet rotates, same as the contact on the axle.One set of coils for each contact the salvaged DC motor has.Each set aligend to the corresponding contact.And now you will ask "How do you plan to connect that to a single DC power source?Well, that is why it will be the 2020 model - my time for tinkering is sadly limited because I still need to work to support myself.But if you consider that the original as a good model can run for over 10 minutes on a supercapcitor then ask yourself how long it could run on 4 or even 8 coil sets.And although there is no such thing as "free energy": There will be still space for more coils.Or other coils to just provide electricity that does not power the motor.Critics will now see their chance and state that if we add a load to these additional coils then this will cause a strain on the system.Of course they are correct here.If, however, the load is mechanical then the motor needs to supply basically the same additional energy.Plus all mechanical losses.The question is: How much mechanical load can we add before the motor is down to the same efficiency of a very efficient DC motor? ;)And what if our Aussie Newman 2020 would actually violate the laws of physics?We can calculate how much electrical energy would be required so a given motor produces a fixed amount of torque.Or we can just measure it, the beauty of science...We can do the same in reverse of course.Let's say a mechanical pump would require 500RPM and 100Nm of torque to pump 100 liters per minute.Then we could calculate what sized motor we need to drive the thing and how much power the motor would need.So again: What if the Aussie Newman 2020 would require far less than what science makes us think and still does this job on a simple 12V lead acid batty of 4Ah?Just saying... ;)I hope to have a presentable and working 2 coil system by May, so stay tuned!In case you are faster or even beter then of course feel free to show off your results or to post a link to your Instructable so everyone can verify it.

Posted by Downunder35m 5 days ago  |  last reply 1 day ago


Cannot post comments or reply to questions

When I tried yesterday to post a comment, it displayed a message: " Oops, something went wrong! " Today, I tried to reply to someone's question, but it wouldn't work: " Oops, something went wrong! " He was able to post the question, but that was eight days ago. That means this glitch happened between now and then.

Posted by Techno_Bot01 5 days ago  |  last reply 5 days ago


Mono pole / single pole magnets!?

I made a quite intersting discovery today.The use of mixed orientations for a stronger or more directed field on one side and a much weaker on the other side of a magnet is nothing new. But if you check modern wind turbines or even just any old hard drive you find "chokes". I talked about shielding before but combining shielding a choking provides again another level of manipulation.If you ask anyone who claims to know magentic field or sience in general then you right away hear: There is no such thing as magnet with just a single pole!Like a battery one pole can't exist without the other!Keep going and your conversation parten either get angry or declares you a nut case.Also said before: The laws of nature and physics are not set in stone or complete for that matter!We only use what we know, or to be precise what we told to take as facts.A magnet with just one pole is impossible to manufacture, if you only think like making the magnet like any other magnet.Even cutting it in half will only give you two normal magnets again.Why is that so?How are magnets made is what you need to know.No matter the material they start as a blank and during the final processing an intense electromagnetic field is used to "prime" them.Like you would do on a screwdriver the material then keeps the "charge" and becomes magnetic.And this process requires a certain orientation.Imagine a big hydraulic press to make the magnet with some super strong electromagnets right beside the forms.Explains why you won't find a block magnet with the poles on opposing corners - the form is not designed to be rotated ;)Ferrite magnets can often be machined.If you mark the field direction of a block then you could just cut it into the shape you need.Like a half moon, triangle, pyramid...The orientation does not change, so you need to create the cuts so your required orientation matches the orignal block.Creates a lot of waste, is messy and often the magnets shatter.Still not possible to create a mono pole ;)But it allows for a great deal of field manipulations.For example a thick north and a thin south pole would show very different field strengths at the poles.How to create a mono or single pole magnet then??If you think outside modern science restraints it is suprisingly easy!You see, unlike a battery the magnet does not care if the "current" flows back to its own pole or a pole from a different magnet.In a hard drive the choked magnets have a field strength between them that is not just twice as much as th one from a single magnet.The field between the magnets is very stable too!No matter where you measure it is the same.Place two magnets in the same configuration with the choke and all you get between them is a mess.To understand the reality with magnets I need to explain a bit more though:If it does not matter from where to where the field lines go the it becomes obvious that you can guide them.Horse shoe magnets of the old kind where just two steel bars with a block magnet between them!Take a compass and check from what distance your magnet will start to affect the orientation.Now take two iron bars, rods, block or similar of about twice that length.Place the compass between one end and the magnet between the other end.Even with a little gap your compass will still move!You just extended the length of the field lines and directed them somewhere else as it also works with odd shapes.We know know and confirmed how choking works and as shielding is basically the same thing but for a different purpose you might get an idea where I am heading already.A "potted" magnet, like what you find in a speaker or as a hook magnet utilises two destinct features.a) A ring magnet is used.b) The field lines are directed to a specific area.One has them directed into a gap for a coil like in a wind turbine, the other to the surface to massively increase the field strenght in that area.If you take either apart you will notice the magnet just by itself is considerably weaker.Removing a pole from a magnet...If you paid attention so far and have a few magnets around then you already developed a feeling for the difference.Lets crank it up a notch, shall we?Make this experiment:Take two identical magnets and a soft steel bar or similar of lesser thickness than the magnets.Usually around 2-3mm for smaller N52 Neodymiums will do.If you dare make the steel the same size as the magnets.Now place one magnet on the steel and use the other to observe the difference in feel.There won't be much and both poles should still fell like before only that the field is now slightly longer.Trying to get two magnets to touch at the same pole is really hard, but see what happens if you add the other magnet on the other side of the steel...Despite having the same pole on the steel they won't repel and stick to the steel.Checking the field now with a magnet provides a very different feel!It is like having a magnet with a split pole where the opposing pole now is in the center.Impossible I know but you have it in your hand, so deal with the explanation yourself ;)And if that is so damn easy then how hard can it be to actually remove one pole fully?Design of the impossible magnet...If you want the south pole only then it would be the entire surface of your impossible magnet.That means you either need to make sacrifices or get creative for the next steps.Easiest from my experiments is to sacrifice like all scientists do and allow for some minor gaps.I won't give any dimension or step by step instructions.Think 3D and use your imagination.Our impossible magnet starts from the center.All magnets used should provide the same field strenght!To be precise it means no matter their grade, the the "force" of the magnets should be as close to identical as possible even if the size is different.You can use stacks or different types/grades...The center is a square block of soft steel, or iron as pure as possible - it needs to have a low "resistance" if you compare them to batteries and to avoid confusing terms.On this "dice" you place one magnet on each face, preferably of identical size to the block.So, for a 10x10mm block you use 10x10mm magnets -simple isn't it.All magnets are place with the same pole onto the block!In out example to get the south pole outside you would use the north pole.Now use six bigger magnet blocks for another layer.This time they are placed in attraction mode, meaning you let them stick together naturally.The resulting magnet will be far from perfect but you will have a hard time finding a strong attraction to the soth pole of a magnet if you move it around your cube.If you check the geometry you will now see how 45° degree angles and matching sizes for the blocks would be beneficial.Using ferrite magnets you can machine them to the desired size and use a thin aluminium or breass frame to hold the outside properly together, like edging on a fancy tranport box or chest.Check the magnet now and try to find anything else but a destict south pole on all faces and corners.No more nother pole....Does that mean it really is a mono or single pole magnet?Since modern science does not even consider a construction like this to be worth testing you already know the anser.For those working on a different level with magnets it will be a true single pole magnet.For the rest it will just be another fake.As by science a permanent magnet is defined to have two poles and to have field lines going from one pole to the other.All modern machines using them operate on this principle and "fact".But if I would give you a block of steel that has a core of lets say brass and a suffien wall thickness...Then this block would appear to be a steel block and nothing else.Modern science fails to see a magnet any other than a battery!If the "current" does not need to go back to same pole and there is no need for the field lines to go back to the outside pole then it is a single ple magnet like the faked box is a steel box.The physical outcome or in our case magnetic field is what defines it!The contra...All good has some bad, magnets are no different.Purely scientific viewed it would be impossible to create a gap free magnet like I described.And because never all field lines will take the shortcut there will still be a small amount of "north pole" to be found on the outside.But if that is in the range of about 1% of the field strength of the magnet then I say it can be neglected for almost all real life uses of such a magnet.Like the Halbach Array it is just a neat way of manipulating and if you like bending the known interpretation of our scientific understanding.Possible uses for these magnets exclude convention designs and for this reason alone anything you create with them will be the target of scepticism to say it nice.Ok then, what real life uses could there be for something we never needed?The question is the answer, as the impossible magnet is the solution.Ever watched these shopping shows in the night program?"It solves problems you didn't even know you might get..."Means that if you ever get the ide that your project requires a single pole magnet then you know how to make one ;)All I can up with would go against common scientific understanding and teachings, so I will spare you with my use cases ;)And what is missing here to actually make it work?Quite a lot as you might have noticed in your experiments if you use really good test equippment.Not so much however if you consider what I said about shielding and choking ;)Provide a path of far less resistance and shield the rest that still bothers you.I am not providing a ready to go model here that you can buy, someone else will do that if they see a financial gain it.My gain is provide a new understanding of things we forgot by giving your brain things to work with and develop.You might still say in the end that my way (or your results) are not good enough in some way.But then please also consider how many other people or documents you might be able to find that would have provided you with this information.Free energy is only a myth for as along as we allow ourselfs to only trust what modern science allows us to have.Allow the old knowledge in and every now and then simple ignore what you know and things become possible sooner than you might think.Wind and water were used as a source of free energy since the dawn of mankind.Our first motorised boats used the same "wheels" we already trusted to be driven by water to power a mill, saw or similar.And after we learned about motors we also found a way to make wind - by reversing our trusted wind mills into a fan.Instead of using the free energy to generate power for us we evolved to use create wind and propulsion by providing power to drive the same thin in reverse.Using the sun for power other by using a mirror was seen as witchcraft throughout history, then we got solar cells...Same for heat in the form of peltier elements and other things...Why then should magnets be any different??Just "Because it is so!" did not work for wind, water and solar, not even for heat....All it takes is a little notch in the right direction to change the way we think about magnets.We have no problem using electromagnets to make a motor spin.We have no problem using magnetic field of any kind to drive motors or generate electricity.We even fail to have a problem by manipulation electromagnetic fields for that purpose.But we struggle like an ant in sand hole to reach the surface again to see what is outside our trap before something grabs us from behind when it comes to permanent magnets.Even worse if you dare to claim your magnetic machine delivers a higher output energy than what you use to make it run.And wasn't it exactly the same ignorance and manifested "knowledge" that got revised so many times throughout history already?Again: Why should magnets or their understanding of interaction be any different?If you follow the above with just matching magnets and the core cube then the result will be at least very surprising to you.Allow this surprise to be an inspiration to improve instead of seeing as a proof of failure ;)And if you made it then please post about it here.Let me know what disappointed you with the outcome.Let me know what really got you wondering.Let me know if you found a suffiently strong north pole to rival the impossible southpole! ;)Start sharing, make other people wonder and make them share it to, let us go viral!The first to post a conclusive Youtube video with results is certain to get a lot, lot, lot attention....

Posted by Downunder35m 6 days ago


Plans

How do I get plans from instructables?

Posted by thecountrychick 6 days ago  |  last reply 6 days ago


Embedded printing

Some time ago I made a short Instructable on some basics of integrating other things with a 3D print job.I found some more uses that are not always conventional so to say.For example using an acrylic plate as the "bottom" layer and printing the rest around and on top of it, like a box with a clear bottom.Another nice thing I found is that quite often overhanging parts like hook type hinges can be avoided.Especially if said part needs to be really sturdy one could print it turned by 90° and with some support like an undercut add it to the print.Works really nice too is you want to have movable parts within your printed creation.I might have to do some print jobs next month and was wondering if I should add some more for another Instructable with proper instructions and examples?Anyone done some embedded printing based on my last Ible about it?

Posted by Downunder35m 7 days ago


Is it possible to make a shoe printer out of an old desktop printer?

Hi everyone, I am just a marine engineering student and I always used to visit this page before and I really learned a lot from this page I really love it. It sound wierd but I got 999 "what if's" In my mind and one of them is what if I could make my own device that could paint my sneakers In any design I want? So now I'm planning to make a shoe printer out of my old desktop printer, Is it possible? The motors and some parts might be helpful and those are needed some time and a little bit of coding. And I want it to work like a cnc plotter. But the hardest part for me is the "Inking part" A.) "How does a printer manipulate colors?" . Let's say I want to print an apple with a white background on my shoe , how does a printer selects/mix a color for each coordination they paint? ( base, outline, background and etc. ) I mean, how do they do that? what device does this part for the printer? So that I could add it on the list. B.) "What process should I use? " . Is it heating? Should I use lazer? Or should I use a tiny nozzle? Or a multiple of nozzles? Or is it piezo electric pulses? What piece should it be? that would perfectly Suitable for printing on a sneakers? (Canvas) Additional question : (if ever) what type of ink should I use ? Any answer or suggestions would be so much appreciated

Posted by glennmarksovan 7 days ago  |  last reply 3 days ago


Wifi Mesh

Do you think mesh wifi really worth it for a big house ? Or i'd better go for wifi repeater ?

Posted by HiveA 8 days ago  |  last reply 6 days ago


Simple circuit simulator

Hello,I am a hobbyist , and I am looking for a simple circuit simulator that can tell me if my circuit is working well.Just simple to use not like those professional that are hard to use and oriented to professionals.Does anybody know about?thanks to everyone.

Posted by Leonida61 8 days ago  |  last reply 7 days ago


A couple of suggestions for the website

When I click on an article in the email and come to the site, it looks as if I'm logged in but nothing works because I must log out and log back in to make the site recognize me. The email click should bring me to a login page and then take me to the clicked-on article.Also, adding something to a collection is awkward, with the roll-down top bar coming into view only when you scroll down and then stepping through several clicks. Compare how natural it is at thingverse. This is how it should work.

Posted by williamduncan 8 days ago  |  last reply 8 days ago


Portable media build parts question

I'm looking to build a portable gaming and media station but I'm stuck on a couple things and am hoping people here might have some suggestions and/or links. Basically, I bought a large aluminum camera case, big enough to hold a 22" led tv in the lid. I am going to mount the tv in the lid, thinking of just drilling the holes and mounting the tv directly to the lid. Any critiques or problems with that would be nice.Second, I'm going to mount a ps3, a portable media player (think Von Haus) which uses flash drives or portable hard drive via US, and a retropie system. Now where I'm running into trouble is two-fold. One is how to mount the items into the case. Foam would normally work well, but I'm worried about heat reduction, less so for the media player and more for the ps3 and retropie. I'm also worried about having it hardmounted onto the case via glue gun because of any shocks it might get while in transport. I also want to dremel out in the front and the back, and put in ports to be able to connect to an outside source as needed. Basically, I need a number of connectors which mount inside with the port leading out. USB 2/3, HDMI, RCA cable connector (RWY). I can find extension cables, but what I'm more looking for is, say for USB, a male lead on one end to connect to the ps3, and a female lead on the other end which sits inside case but is dremel'ed out to be able to connect a USB from the outside, basically a plate which I can just screw in. Something similar to what you'd find inside a console or similar. Anything which anyone can help with on any of these would be greatly appreciated.

Posted by GeorgeGrace 8 days ago  |  last reply 8 days ago


HELP can not acess using chrome

When I try using Chrome I get message saying Instructorless is temporally not working and do I want to play clumsy robot. If I use IE I can view but cannot download any pdf's or view comments

Posted by TEWING49 9 days ago


Low friction "bearings"

For several of my projects I required some sort of bearing that would not only allow for a minimised free play but also very low friction.Before you get too exited: This is not a new type of bearing or anthing for heavy duty loads, not even for ongoing use without servicing.I found that even slightly heavier things rotated on makishift bearing far easier if the axle was verticall instead of horizontally.This gave me the idea to try a simple needle-bearing approach.This is how it goes:1. Grind and polish your axle to get a nice needle point - it must be perfectly centered!I prefer to do this with the axle in a fast spinning drill on a fine grinder.The polishing in a simlilar way, but please do not try it with a cloth in your hand on a spinning axle!2. The other part of the bearing is a screw or pin with a punch mark.I grinded and polished a punch for this so it has an angle of 60° and polished it to a mirror finnish.If alignment is of importance then of course the pin/screw must work for this purpose!If in doubt make it spind an use a pencil to get the true center.A drop of sewing machine oil and it spins nice and with very little friction.The key is to adjust the gap(s) between axle and punch mark to next to nothing.You don't want any pressure along the axle as you would "drill" a hole into your mounts.And you don't want it too loose to avoid wobble.I hope it might give you an idea for your next project.

Posted by Downunder35m 11 days ago


Help me design the Circuit,

Hello everyone;I want to make power backup for my internet router which runs on, 9v and 0.6Ah or 600mAh, I bought the 9v battery but it could not provide enough current to the router to work properly, so now i have two 6v batteries which provides 4Ah current each and i want to use them for power backup, now i,m stuck at the point that how i'm going to make this voltage lower i.e 12V to 9V, however, I figured out how I can limit the current to 0.6Ah or 600mAh, i,m using 12v charger to charge these batteries while connected in series and will use it with router as well, can any one help me out the how can i decrease the voltage to 9V and use it power my router.i'll be grateful

Posted by TamurT 13 days ago  |  last reply 12 days ago


Beware of the new Email scam!

Recently I noticed that one my Emails accounts got some unwanted attention.Both in the standard folder as well as in the provided spam folder I started to collect Emails.And I don't always mean from senders I knew or webistes I am registered with.My usual approach is to just delete what comes from unkown senders or has a suspicious feeling to it.So no winner got it all crap, no offers, no invitations...A few however seemd to originate from some well known "things on the web" - and some of them I am registered with and get ads, offers and such.Sadly that resulted in some Emails being looked at and then discarded anyways.I kept deleting those unwanted mails without opening them for a few days.They they magically changed ;)Websites I used and especially those that require login details appeared as senders.Nothing with any vital info in the preview but also no real activity from my end on those websites.Then I made some impulsive buys on Ebay :(On top of the usual Emails I also got some "reminders" and "seller offers" added.Never happened before and certainly not activated in my Ebay account as feature.And unlike real Emails from Ebay there was my account name missing.Instead a conviently placed and highlighted shortcut button to "You account login" was provided.Ok, fake, forwared to Ebays spam team and quickly confirmed as spam.Moved and only hours later I got more Emails with similar tempting offers as buttons to confirm something that requires me to login.And now from websites or services I actually logged in to this day.The wise donkey said: You have something on your computer that shouldn't be there!Reboot from a CD to have the hard drives checked for malware - negative captain :(Ok then must be something within Windows, time to use a system restor point for a few weeks ago.Again nope...So I used a different browser and quite few websites and services that require my login details.No new Emails... with those websites.Kept using this brwoser for a few days and only stuff I already had cam again a few times but overall far less spam mails.Used the standard browser for a few hours with some login requirements and within a day I had corresponding Emails for a few of them.Found several bad tracking cookies in my browser.Bad in terms of redirecting all visited IP addresses to some addresses I can't even find.Deleted all cookies as well as the browser history.Reboot...A closer look at those suspicious Emails revealed that some include a thing similar to the old single pixel tracker.If you open them and not otherwise prevented it will result in some webservice knowing you actually opened the Email.Together of course with your Email address.The headers were good fakes too so the real sender is properly disguised.Those bottons and links mostly went to websites my browser protection already knows and prevents.Some however did not.In a sandboxed browser I was able to get onto some more or less convincing copies or the originals websites login page.The addressbar always started with originals name but then had a lot of cryptic stuff added to it.Sandbox blocked all what would otherwise make it throughcame through but the browser was rendered useless in the sandbox after I "logged in".Did another check and confirmed that all links buttons and such on that "infected" website also cause the same browser crash.Only difference was that only WITH something typed into the login field the browser tried to establish a new outgoing connection before getting dusted.Conclusions:The malicious Email provides the IP address used.Most if not all links within such an Email end on malicious websites.Some, especially at the beginning don't!!Instead the links go to websites that use cookies and other stuff normal protection mechanisms overlook.Somewhere between opening the link and closing it or the browser a change is made.Either you get a popup windows looking like some advertisement or when you start your browser the next time you see some website added that was not there before.The spammer now know you actually bothered enough to follow at least of the faked links provided in the Emails.The added bonus tracker provides ongoing supplies of websites you visit.A lot still use things in the address bar that identify them as a login page, even if it just starting with HTTPS.Popular websites and services get faked copies on servers in the dark web or at least outside normal DNS services.Now the spammer adds more and more Emails faking things you login to when using a browser for it.Until now nothing too bad or irriversible happend.But get fooled and actually click on a link in one of the new spam mails and it might be over.In the "best outcome" you would be locked out of your browser and have to delete it in safe mode or attempt a manual removal of the hijacker.A bit worse is if your protection started to fail and instead of the hijacke you end up with something manipulating your system.Really bad would be if you end on faked login website, and safety fails until you are locked out from your own system.Don't know what Email you might get after that and what demands to fix your system...However it gets worse: Like the one before but when enter your credentials and hit the login button the website jumps to some random Youtube clip or Goole search page.In case you wonder: You just gave the spammer your personal login details for said webiste or service....Most "deadly" would be if you end on more than just one like that.Every single one give the spammer a new login that you might pay for or that includes even more senstive data.Having to format and re-install all sudden is a thing of far too late then.I do not know if there was an Email I clicked on first, an infected advertisement or even some leaked Email addresses including my own on the internet for sale.All I know for sure is that those tracking options in the malicious Emails correspond to tracking stuff in the browser.No virus, no real malware until you click on the wrong stuff.Anything to prevent this from happening?Whatever you do: Do not use anything that requires the internet! - Just kidding!! Relax...1: Never click on anything inside mails from sources you don't fully trust! If in doubt copy and paste the link into an editor and check if it identical to the real address! Usually you would find some random stuff after the dot of the address name where you would other wise see .COM or .COM.AU.2. In case you ended on some spam or fake looking website anyways you should delete the cookies and browser history. The history might not be required though.3. Best would of course be to only allow known and trusted cookies or to not use any that survive a restart of the browser.4. Very important! If you start to get those Email very shortly after using it to create an account for something on the web then please provide the website you registered at with that Email address !!!5. If you get faked Emails for things you are actually registered with then please consider to imform the admins or support of this website about it. You might not have clicked on it but some user there might if nobody places a warning ;)What if all went to a total failure?I assume why you made that backup of all vital data and kept it updated?Also how install your operating system, in my case Windows, again.A hijack is easy, a fully infected or even encrypted system not.

Posted by Downunder35m 15 days ago  |  last reply 7 days ago


Just for fun!

I noticed we neither have a section, nor a thread for fun stuff, so I just made one ;)Let me give you something fun to think about, then you can add more funny stuff so we all have a good laugh :)The invisible man - a really old story!There is a man, thausands and thausands of year old, some even say he is as old as time itself.One day the old guy got really bored and decided to do something new.A few days of hard work and within a week he created the universe and all we know.To make it less boring he also decided to add some humans to it.After all, why would you need a TV if you can have it all life.Not long and those humans figured it all out and were really greatful for all the hard work done.So in return they accepted some ground rules, ten of them to be precise.Big buildings were built and everyone also needed some tokens to show how much he loves his god.Many years later some guy came along and got interested in this almighty guy everyone now called "god"."What does he do?""Oh! He loves you and watches you every minute of your life!""Nice! And what does he expect from me?""Just follow the rules and read his book if you feel troubled.""There is a book too?""Certainly is and you can have one for just 10 bucks.""And who is he and what would happen if I break the rules?""God is all powerful, wise, loving and forgiving but if you break the rules you will end in a pit of fire and pain for eternity!""Oh, that much trouble if I break the rules... Can I fix it if I did?""God always loves you and will forgive you!""Hmm, just to make sure that I got it right, let me sum it all up:There is an invisible guy living in the sky, he watches every single one down here every minute of the day.He is all powerful, almighty, all loving and the most forgiving guy you can find.But he needs money.Why do you collect moneyfor him if he never eats, sleeps, drinks or has any fun and also states there is no need for riches?"

Posted by Downunder35m 15 days ago  |  last reply 14 days ago


Need help creating a very simple Arduino code

Just a simple forward code. arduino uno to A3967 EasyDriver Stepper Motor Driver to nema 17

Posted by Sweetcorn_18 17 days ago  |  last reply 17 days ago


I can't comment!!

Whenever I try to post a comment it says that "Oops, something went wrong!" Please reply how to fix it

Posted by Hassan Nasser 17 days ago  |  last reply 15 days ago


Updated 3D Model of the Instructables Robot!

Hey Everyone!Happy Friday!This week I uploaded our latest 3D model of the Instructables Robot to Thingiverse, in case you were looking for some inspiration for the Remix Contest ;) It's exciting to see how many people have already downloaded the model! Click here to grab the model, and be sure to tag us on Twitter and Instagram once you're ready to show off how you used this 3D model of our beloved robot mascot!Have a great weekend!best,audreyObscura

Posted by audreyobscura 18 days ago  |  last reply 15 days ago


Connecting Arduino to raspberry pi

I need to connect the Arduino to raspberry pi and program both with labview Is there any instructions please

Posted by mustafaa201 18 days ago  |  last reply 7 days ago


Anyone notice?

A lot of links not showing up. Click on a link just takes you back to the top of the page.

Posted by Tripmine56 18 days ago  |  last reply 15 days ago


Fixing a Dead Li-Polymer Tablet Battery by Over Voltage

Hello all,I find this Instructable https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Fix-Dead-L...I need to use this method for a Pegatron battery G6BTA019H P/N:0B23-00E00RVhttps://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTIwMFgxNjAw/z/EkIAAOSw...but I can't find a diagram of the pinouts for it, would it just be a case of connecting the very end wires, labelled + and -?How risky is that if it's wrong?Is there a way to test them with a multimeter?Thanks

Posted by PlexusIndustrious 18 days ago  |  last reply 7 days ago


Can't reply to comments on my instructable

Hi all,I have been unable to respond to comments posted on my instructable. I am using firefox 65.0.1 and it is set to auto clear browser cache when I close the browser. I'm not sure what else to try. Any ideas on how I can get this working? Appreciate any help. Thanks in advance.

Posted by parsons_woodcrafts 20 days ago  |  last reply 19 days ago


Fishing the traditional way

A while ago I had a very bad day of fishing in terms of catching something for my frying pan or freezer.Same story for the old bloke sitting a few meters away from me.So we decided to pass some time with useless chats about our previous record fish we caught.While the old bloke changed bait I noticed that he did not have a hook at the end of the line.....What is that contraption and how do you catch fish with it?Old bloke laughed and said he goes hunting a lot too and always keeps the antlers from deer and such.Instead of a hook he used a round and pointy bar with a little notch slightly off the middle.Couldn't figure out how this possibly could hook a fish, so got a bigger laugh for it this time :("Make a loose fist, put it in and then pull on the line." he said and I was dumb enough to assume it would not work :(Figure it out by getting two bleeding pricks...Fish swallows the "stick" inside the bait and one there is some pull one pointy end will always get stuck.The other moves until there is no room to move anymore and the fish is spiked up for good.Only downside is that one you get a fish too big it might not grab - bad luck then LOLThis approach instead of steel hooks reminded me of the bamboo fishing poles my grandfather used to make.Be it for eel, trout, carp or even from the boat for pollock and sardine - he loved his bamboo.Even made me my fisrt fly fishing rod from a piece of bamboo :)The old guy however had more than hand made rods or horn needles as hooks.When his hands were still as good as his eyes he even made flies from these horn sticks!He explained the process to me but I never had the patience for normal flies and doing this with horn sticks and estimating how big the biggest fish might be while making sure it is neither too heavy nor fails to float...What I really liked about this otherwise wasted fishing day was the stories I got from the old man."You don't need fancy or oversensitive gear to fish, a safety pin and some packing coad do just fine if you are hungry!"Best story was how he caught a 2m gummy shark with a hand line meant to catch some sardines for bait.I could really his 3 hour struggle to get the thing on board LOLWhat are your most successfull old school or just plain weird catches with something a real sports fisherman would not even touch to cast?

Posted by Downunder35m 20 days ago  |  last reply 9 days ago


Need Recommendation for 3D Printer for Makerspace

Aloha. I am in charge of purchasing a couple of 3D Printers and associated programs/materials for our developing Makerspace. We are a two-year college. The equipment will be used primarily by students. It may also be used for a credit class. I appreciate any suggestions. Mahalo.

Posted by BethS117 22 days ago  |  last reply 21 days ago


Can't edit a collection

I made this collection some time ago. At first, when I tried to edit it, it would open up, but it would get stuck in the loading screen, with the dots moving across. I tried again, the same thing happened. The next day, the same thing happened. Then, a short time later, when I open the editor, the site shows the "404: We're sorry, things break sometimes" error. So now I can't even delete the collection.

Posted by Techno_Bot01 22 days ago  |  last reply 14 days ago


Another idea for a piece-tracking chess board

RFID-based chess boards have their merits of course, but would be pretty expensive and could potentially suffer from antenna cross-talk. Furthermore, the relatively immense amount of information carried compared to what's required makes RFID sort of overkill. Reed switches have the opposite problem, only carrying a single bit of information per square (piece present y/n). It seems that what you want is something in-between (six kinds of pieces, two colors, so you only need four bits of entropy per square/piece).My idea is the following:Each square is a circuit containing a signal generator connected to four bandpass filters at frequencies f1,f2,f3,f4 (multiplexed of course, so that we only need a few signal generators/filters)Each piece has a RLC circuit in the foot (with fairly large inductance)The circuit in each piece is tuned to resonate at frequency f1, f2, f3 or f4, or any combination of the fourTo poll a square for information, we mux to the square's circuit and generate sin(f1) + sin(f2) + sin(f3) + sin(f4). Now we should be able to discern which piece is on the square based on the frequency response observed at the output of the bandpass filtersIf I'm not completely missing something, the resulting PCB should be comparatively cheap to construct. But I'd love to hear if this is a less elegant solution than I think. Are there any problems with this idea?

Posted by BenjaminL136 22 days ago  |  last reply 18 days ago


An Other One

I have made a Plotter using 2 Stepper Motors from CD/DVD Drives.As so many have been done, not sure if the there would be interest on how I made this one.I have made the frame on my 3D printer, and made a circuit so the motors don't get hot enough to fry eggs on.Here is a video of it in action:

Posted by Palingenesis 22 days ago  |  last reply 19 days ago


Why is almost every free energy video you find a hoax or fake?

The term "free energy" is used both ways by us.What comes from wind, solar or water power is considered free energy.Also everything claiming to produce energy from nothing is considered free energy.Speaking of hoaxes and fakes now is a bit like comparing appels to tomatoes.For me it more like those stage magicians: It all looks real and impossible but they do it, so it must be real.If you really need to brag about your free energy device but are unable to sell a working model to interested people it at least means you are not a scammer.Several people play the game of exposing fakes.And if include this in your search then you get an idea about the amount of fakes or magically illusions out there.The internet is often abused to change opinions or make people do things they usually wouldn't do.Even if it is as simple as clicking on a suggested link for the next video.Patents can disappear or with enough money you can buy them off the inventor.One reason why more and more companies develop in secrecy and without ever applying for any patents - check the swiss army knife ;)There are no conspiracies involving "free energy" but imagine it would be the case...There currently is nothing that would actually allow you to produce enough electricity for your family all year round.At least not if you want to avoid several wind and water turbines and all possible areas covered with solar cells.If you would somehow make a device that produces more output than input (even if it uses up some form of stored energy like magnets) then how would you present it to the world??Could you take the abuse of literally everyone around you calling you a scammer?You know better, so you allow it to be tested - really??Unless you provide all details and open all up you would still be called a scammer.Someone offers you a lot of money to take the thing and have your assurance to never talk about it or invent something similar - suddenly not that impossible to think of...But what if there is no offer but threats instead?A nice show on the internet keeps you safe and allows the sceptics to brag how it is faked.What better way then to make sure there are tons of videos that show similar constructions that clearly can't work? ;)As with every good story there is always a bit of truth somewhere.Over 80 years ago people made magnetmotors that worked.Look it up and check their patents.Most of the fakes we see today are based on the same 4 or 5 machines from back then ;)Our modern life would not be possible without the inventions Tesla made.Still, basically all of his inventions that did not find public use are still considered bogus.How can one of the smartest man of that time have hundrets of used and recognised patents while those using them claim all the rest is useless and fake?Getting energy they can sell was fine.Allowing that everyone can generate all the electricity needed themself not so much.A free generator that everyone can build would never see a meter and you could not force people to put one on either.With unlimited money available those behind electricity, oil, gas and coal will always make sure that anything even just getting close to it will disappear.The internet changed this as now everyone can provide plans, videos and even all required parts if needed.Making someone or something disappear in Africa or Indonesia is easy, doing so with someone who has actual family, a job and lots of friends not so much.Money and contracts are the next best thing then...Remember the hype about Vortex energy a few years back?Videos claiming to have a vortex thingy producing more energy than what is used everywhere.Now in some regions vortex math is actually something people study.And with this the new videos about vortex based free energy devices went down to almost zero.Nothing new anymore that was not shown already.If you study a bit what Tesla did for students and teachers you will find a lot of similarities between his math and the new area of vortex math.But where those vortex guys use our modern math, limited constants and sequences, Tesla actually include all that was known at the time in his math.Like with scientology you have to work your way up the ranks in the vortex world.A lot of things you can only understand by confirming it in experiments, other stuff you will only get know when attending seminars.If you just get together what you find online and try to understand it then try again with a printout of Tesla's circle of math next to it.Knowledge is out there that we just fail to acknowledge or even try to explain if we see it.Just take ancient building skills.We know they did it because their monuments still exist today.But we would utterly fail to replicate this with our modern technology.Let alone with the tools claimed to be available at the time.....Levitation through sound was deemed to be impossible.Then one day we invented powerful ultrasonic speakers and it worked anyway.So how many real "free energy devices" are out there?How knows if it is one, a few or thausands.Same for all the websites and videos out there.After a while you learn how to spot the fakes quickly.Then you still find some videos where you fail to find the hidden battery or motor or power connection.In the end you are left with the same 4 or 5 possible types claimed to have worked almost hundred years ago.Eliminate the bogus and incomplete then there is still some left....It does not mean any of it actually works...That is if you exclude those few companies selling things like magnetmotor generators for a few years now.Going faster than a certain speed would kill you - then we moved on from steam engines.It will never be possible to use the power of the atom to produce electricity - we got nuclear reactors anyway.Now we even try to make fusion generators feasable...So ask yourself if all "free energy" bogus really is just bogus...We know life must exist on other planets outside out solar system but we still could not accept if this life would be more advanced or civilised than we are...Yet we feel the need "to go out there"...Where does Instructables come into play?Take the dare and provide a well documented Instructable that allows anyone to replicate your "free energy device".No solar cells or electric generators please, only stuff that should exist or work.If you don't speak or write english then use some translator and people here will help to properly translate it.The big community here will jump on it, find the hoax behind it and tear it apart.However if they can't then someone will build it to show that it can't actually work.Then imagine the surprise if "I made it!" starts to be clicked more and more...No one could stop the progess or hide it then ;)Of course we all know that nobody will ever post such an Instructable, don't we?Keep in mind that the scam behind "free energy" might just be result of too many scammers...

Posted by Downunder35m 22 days ago  |  last reply 1 day ago


Aircon or fridge compressor to solar?

Sometimes I get weird ideas that I can't shake off :)When I was looking into options for a 12 compressor fridge freezer combo I was stunned.You a get a fullsized frrezer for far less!A further check revealed that it is mainly the linear compressor that makes the price plus the usual mark ups.Efficiency and especially start up is far better with thes compressors than out standard rotary and piston drive models.But why would it be so impossible to replace the motor from a standard compressor with a brushless DC one?I focussed on three things for the start:Lubrication, cooling and sealing.There is no such thing like a simple compressor with a piston system that does have some leaking.So apart from the noise the enclosure really needs to be welded and sealed again.Everything moving inside is lubricated by the drive shaft - it acts like a little pump.Same for the cooling of these vital parts.The oil flow exchanges heat through the big metal housing.A replacement motor would need to be suited to run in such a messy enviroment.Of course something to provide a proper oil flow needs to be created too if the drive shaft is replaced.With some basic enineering this might be possible, same for the motor mount and wiring to the outside.But what to do about the full load starting conditions that can happen?Even with no load from the cooling system the motor needs massive torque to get the piston moving.A bypass valve that closes once the motor is at proper speeds might work but hard to implement in a tight space.Any ideas?Did you ever try something that stupid?Could you make it work?What about a rotary compressor with external drive?We use ice blenders that have a magnetic base and the actual connection is made through the magnetic forces alone.A scroll compressor has lots of space without the original motor inside.Plus, a round pipe is easier to work with when it comes to adding or removing things.Small scroll compressors from an airconditioner or small industrial freezer wouldn't have to do much work in a small setup.Best thing is that with a variable speed the cooling power can be adjusted.How feasable would it be to use some polycarbonate end plate and a magnetically coupled drive ?Modern BLDC motors offer great performance and suitable gear systems are readily available.N52 neodymium magnets of the block type provide several kg of force if close enough to each other - should be enough to make a compressor spin...In return it could mean to have a nice freezer or even airconditioner that runs directly on solar power.No massive losses from inverters, no need for huge battery banks either.As long as the sun is out you have free power, once down you can still switch to a power supply for the motor or use battery power.Just imagine you come home after long day of work and the house is already cool.And you did not have to pay a cent to get it cool or wait for hours for it to reach this temperature!We love to add solar panels to our houses in the hope to get a few cents back from our energy providers.The sad reality often is that you might be able to power all your needs during the day but the excess that goes back to the grid often pays next to nothing.But if you could power a lot more things like a compressor directly with the electricity from your panels....Then these kWh would not appear on your usage bill either.Means you neither use what the power provider compensates you for nor is it "wasted" thorugh this bogus compensation.The normal solar setup can then provide you with this little extra money while an additional set powers the motors for your big freezer or little airconditioner - little being relative to what you make of the idea ;)If you really dare than you could even use your bike and legs to power your fridge directly ;)Use your imagination :)

Posted by Downunder35m 22 days ago


Why "Vortex" for Vortex math and devices?

If you are new to the topic then it might give you a slightly quicker understanding than watching hours of youtube videos.I assume you have seen these various coils that make a sphere shaped magnet spin at insane speeds.They are a good start.You see by normal understanding these Rodin or Vortex coils should not be able to produce a field that rotates that fast.As with a lot of things we tried to use math to explain it in theory and than adjusted the math to match it.Vortex math was born.So how do you explain blue and red to a blind person that never saw anything?I mean in a way they actually know how it would look if they could see?Doesn't work, but we can use a Dyson vacuum cleaner ;)A lot of "tornados" add up to one giant super tornado.Spinning so fast that "all" the dirst stays behind and only clean air comes out.As in nature all the weather cells add up to one that is more powerful than the combined single ones.The tornados that form the term vortex are around the coils.But also around the entire donut as well as every single strand of wire.In any good vortex the rotational speed increases towards the center and bottom of the vortex.You can try that with some floating stuff when you drain your bathtub or sink.Try to imagine and endless tornado that runs around every wire like a spiral.The coil itself adds another spin vector to it and increases the moving speed or the single tornado.Combined it adds up to a very strong tornadoe moving very fast around in the coil pack.As this also creates a rotating field like another tornado in the donut shape it all gets twisted up.Physics as we know it won't fully explain these effects.Vortex devices that produce electricity are usually coils in a special winding configuration and pattern.Like we try to eliminate certain things with basket coils in the HF area a Rodin or Vortex coil tries to utlise these otherwise unwanted stray effects and interferences.Overunity is another term people like to use here but I leave it up to you if such a things is phsically possible with an electrical system.Vortex math tries to explain all these things demonstrated in experiments.However I found two slight flaws in the common approch.1. Only two dimension used.Unlike the coils the simplified Vortex math only operates in two dimensions.A circle instead of a sphere if you like.2. Again, unlike the coil harmony and resonance are neglected.It seems in some cases people try to draw a circle just with straight lines.While in reality you have a never ending, resonant "stream" in three or to be precise four dimensions.Is it the chicken and egg problem?Yes and no.You can only calculate something if you can fully understand it or exactly replicate it in reality.Vortex coils are just way to interpret theories and get some sort of results.And those results are the real problem.We can measure magnatic fields in strenght and direction even frequency.However we can neither make them visible in real time not measure mixed or entangled fields properly.We "see" Mars is our "red planet" but in reality it just the atmosphere, the surface is not red at all in most places.NASA has enough problems to calculated missions to outer space with enough accuracy.Just imagine they would have to do it while considering that around every path our planets make is another spinning "distraction"....That is exactly what Vortex math tries to do while eliminating common math bit by bit.You can see and hear in 3 dimensions.Maybe you are also good in drawing something in 3D on your compterscreen or 3D headset.But how many here could predict the path of a baseball in 3D like they do when watching a game?Depending on your viewing angle you might be way off....Try to know or calculate where exactly the ball is at any given monet in time and how fast it spins in which direction.....Our brains are not trained to think like this!Even if we construct things like a dome we prefer to have straight features.Sure manufacturing is one thing that needs to be affordable.But try to just calculate the support structure if all is actually fully round like a sphere should be.We avoid what is considered higher dimensions as much we can.To calculate a distance in 3D it still seems easier to use two 2D models to add up instead of true vectors.Again only through technology like computer we are able to simulate, understand and actually calculate what we need.Where we ventured around the globe and into our solar system our math was left behind.Finding workaround and good enough approximations still seems the way to go.Instead actually evolving our math to our needs we just add more and more complex formulas and calculations.To fully understand vortex math you need to let go and start thinking in 4 dimensions instead of just 2.Oh, sorry, you might be new to this...Number 4 is time of course.

Posted by Downunder35m 23 days ago


Login in Issues

Ok right now I am having another issue other then the not downloading one when I try to log in with my instructables account the login button on the login page https://www.instructables.com/account/login/ is not able to be pressed so I have to log on with facebook or google which is fine but it a bit anoying any one got some help

Posted by wnorman 23 days ago  |  last reply 21 days ago


Need help with a project

Hi, I am making a project with arduino that has to run two nema 17 stepper motors that will turn separate pinion gears for a rack and pinion and a single servo to move and arm up and down. I want to be able to control everything with a wired control pad. If anyone knows an instructable that would help with this could you let me know please. I have not had any luck finding anything. Thank you.

Posted by tensecondsdown 24 days ago  |  last reply 24 days ago


Power banks and solar cells -could be great Instructable for you to make!

I was lucky to score a nice and real 8000mAh power pack with a solar cell from my local discounter.Realising the solar cell is more a gimmick than of real use I started to wonder....We all love our mobile devices and really hate that they need to be constantly charged up again.On long outdoor trips people used to carry a lot of gear and vital supplies.In todays times it almost seems that solar and battery power start to replace food and water.No trip is complete without pics, selfies and videos, some even take a drone with them.So: are there ways to increase your luggage weight by thinking smarter?Modern technology has come a long way and moves faster ever year.Solar cells are no exception here.Be it foldable setups or now even roll ups of flexible cell systems, you have the total freedom of coice.But then again: You are going on a week long camping trip in the middle of nowhere...Going on foot or using a bike means you need to keep the extras down or hire someone to carry them.Here are some of my yet to be finnished ideas:As long as you don't use them commercially feel free to make an Instructable or just use the ideas!1. Pop up amd normal tents.They seem to be the new standard now.Big with no poles on the inside and even someone who never used a tent can set them up.With the design comes a certain way of folding everything to pack it.Flexible solar cell designs won't break and can often be arranged so they would actually be able to replace parts of the outer tent material.And if it could mean they would get kinked too much and too often they are still perfect to create some "strap on panels" that can be rolled up and included with your foam underlay or mattress.A 200 or even 400W system can be transported easy and has less weight than a 80W fold up solution that you struggle to secure on your backpack or bike.2. Trackers!What is now almost a standard for fixed installations is still not seen in mobile setups.You pop up your panels, connect the power packs or batteries and go fishing, hiking or whatever.The sun moves on, the efficiency of the panels suffer.There are a lot of great Ibles for these solar trackers, from simple to 3 dimensional.Kites loves to use carbon fibre rods to reduce the weight.A tracking frame to hold a good sized flexible panel would count at less than 300 grams....In return you get up to 40% higher effiency and overall output compared to a fixed panel!Roll the panel up, fold the frame and you end up with a quite small roll that is easy to transport and very low in weight.3. Battery backups.No matter how long and well you planned, the weather might let you down shortly after your trip started.For a lot of comitted people that is no problem.The lack of power though can cause some to struggle to keep their video logs running.Your small drone might be great but it only lasts for less then 30 minutes until you need fresh batteries.Similar story if you use stabilizers, automatic tilt and pan gadgets or just a 360° camera.Just your cell phone alone can be a hassle if you use it as the main thing for GPS, pics and videos.At least one set of spare batteries seems to be a must have these days.For a lot of things it does make sense, for others not so much.Unless you really need ongoing power it might be enough to just charge you empty battery at the end of the day.But then the sun is down and options are gone for solar energy.In the RC area we can find a lot of powerful battery packs.Usually around 14V but 40 or more are no problem.And if you check the E-bike and scooter sections you will find some quite powerful and light weight battery packs.If you go outdoors a lot and for longer periods of time then it makes sense to replace the multiple battery options with just a single one.Use a high power backup battery with your solar system.DC-DC converters make it possible to literally combine everything with everything.Select the battery size so it will suit your charging needs and capabiliteis of the solar setup.Once time to close the tent you enjoy electricity to finnish your logs while your batteries are being charged during the night from the backup.4. Emergency generator.We all know these cheap gadgets like crank up torches or cranking mobile phone chargers.Nice to play with, utterly useless if you actually have to rely on them.A full charge for your modern phone might mean you crank for at least half the day - good luck!If you already carry a supply of gas for your cooking needs then these new fuel cells running on butane might be nice.Some of the Kickstarter projects actually made it into production!Prices though are more for real fans or those with enough money...But a small RC engine can drive some nice DC motor with very little fuel....In return you get a pocket sized generator that can charger your phone fully in the same amount of time a wall charger would...

Posted by Downunder35m 24 days ago


Want to play a Collaboration Game?

Oh my... Coffee beans!(Sorry - had to create a new thread, would not let me edit)Challenge: Oh my! I lost my precious coffee beans! I need to travel around the world searching for them. Will you help me stay awake for that? Collaborate and innovate together - find a new way to filter coffee! Do not use anything expensive and try not to create too much waste ;) Let's go!... How does this game work: 1) First collect ideas for a coffee filter here under this thread until Sunday 24th midnight PST - write what you think would work freely!2) Discuss the ideas here, while they are being collected.3) Select one idea and form teams - prototype together, form an Instructable, make it Collaborative. Or alternatively, just add in your existing Instructable and make it Collaborative. Innovate together! A very rough prototype that shows the principle is sufficient. The time limit for this step is to be announced - not more than several days.4) Collect the 'ibles here under this thread (or I could make a collection of 'ibles if possible) 5) Let's vote and see which new coffee filter is the best!...I will always be around here - you could ask me anything and give feedback, too :).Disclaimer: This is part of a research for my PhD at Istanbul Technical University, department of Industrial Design. The research is strictly non-commercial, only for academic purposes and not financed in any way. The only objective of this game is to encourage collaboration and innovation in communities, in a playful and fun way. Your ideas and identity will not be used or revealed, and your privacy will be protected. Thank you. e-mail: meric.taylan@gmail.com

Posted by merictaylan 24 days ago  |  last reply 23 days ago


{"error": "Sorry, we couldn't find that one!"}

Trying to download PDF for https://www.instructables.com/id/Solar-Powered-WiF... ands get {"error": "Sorry, we couldn't find that one!"}

Posted by abasel 25 days ago  |  last reply 21 days ago


Play a Collaboration Game?

Oh my... Coffee beans!.Let's try this again! ..Challenge: Oh my! I lost my precious special coffee beans! I need to travel around the world searching for them. Will you help me stay awake for that? I will need loooots of coffee for my mission ;)Design a new coffee filter! Collaborate and innovate together - find a new way to filter coffee. Do not use anything expensive and try not to create too much waste ;) Let's go!... How does this game work: 1) First collect ideas for a coffee filter here under this thread until Monday, March 04th midnight PST - write down what you think would work, freely. (Add in to the already collected ideas - challenge yourself!)2) Look at and discuss others' ideas here, while they are being collected.3) Select one idea that you like, and form teams - prototype together, form an Instructable, make it Collaborative. Or alternatively, just add in your existing Instructable and make it Collaborative. Innovate together! A very rough prototype that shows the principle is sufficient. The time limit for this step is to be announced - not more than several days. 4) Collect the 'ibles here under this thread (or I could make a collection of 'ibles if possible) 5) Let's vote and see which new coffee filter is the best! Try to win the most votes and be on the 'podium'!...I will always be around here - you could ask me anything and also give feedback :).Disclaimer: This is part of a research for my PhD at Istanbul Technical University, department of Industrial Design. The research is strictly non-commercial, only for academic purposes and not financed in any way. The only objective of this game is to encourage collaboration and innovation in communities, in a playful and fun way. Your ideas and identity will not be used or revealed, and your privacy will be protected. Thank you. e-mail: meric.taylan@gmail.com.

Posted by merictaylan 25 days ago  |  last reply 16 days ago


Ceiling fan generator mod to the max

I stubled upon several mods to convert a standard ceiling fan into a more or less usefull generator.So if you are looking to go this route then I might have some nice improvements that can be implemented.People like these mods for some weird reason, despite the fact that it requires quite a bit of extra work to make them weather proof.However, when it comes to the fundamentals then to me it looks like some folks out there are missing out.On the available power that is...Always the first step for a mod like this is to replace the induction ring with a lot of magnets.Second step usually is to remove a lot of the coils, especially the inner ring.Now, these two stator designs are common for fans with two speeds.Those with three or even reverse might have a different configuration!Lets start on the magnet part:The recommended way of placing the magnets is by creating an air gap as small as possible - makes sense.But then it is always the same amount of magnets as there is coils - and the spacing is also the same as for the coils.In the general generaotr design world this configuration is prefered as it allows for the best performance.If you dare to go a bit further and cosider how the magnets react to the stator configuration then you might want to consider a different option.You see, these two sets of coils for two different speeds mean just one thing:A different amount of poles is created, with the outer ring having more poles than the inner ring of coils.The core is split around the coils, not just to allow the windings to be made but also to provide independent paths for the magnetic field - resulting in the two pole configurations.Amounts differ by diameter, power level, manufacturer and so on.What is always the same is that the inner ring has less coils and that the outer segments of the poles created have even spacings.In the normal mods you see posted these gaps in the core for the outer ring are closed by inserting lamitaed pieces from some old transformer.And you end up with ONE usable coil configuration and ONE power output.The slightly advanced mod uses the inner coil to add some load depending on the speed to prevent spinning out of control in high winds.If you try a normal DC motor with permanent magnets than you will notice the strong binding forces, it is like the rotor sticks in certain places.The better ones use and uneven configuration to reduce this binding effect ;)In my mod the magnets are selected in size to almost be the same length as two stator poles next to each other.This allows for the best induction while still allowing "to experiment".Bringing the magnets and the coils into play...As said an exact match of the number of magnets to either coil ring is not ideal.The prefered option is to go somewhere in between.For example:Outer ring has 18 coils then the inner ring will have 9 coils - exactly half.360° divided by 15 make a nice 24 degress per magnet.But with 12 magnets you get an even 30°, which is far easier to deal with.16 magnets at 22.5° is another option.So, what does that exactly do for us?The bad thing is we get slightly less performance if you only see the standard mod with one coil ring.The good thing we get far lower binding forces and through that the thing will even spin in very light winds.Adding both coil rings with a suitable rectifier however results in a pulsing output of two sine waves.With just the rectifier we get a ripple that is easier to deal with through a capacitor.The extra power available is in the range of about 40% and make more than up for the "reduced" amount of magnets.Going the extra mile once more ;)Having created a much fancier ceiling fan mod now you might wonder if there is not a way to get even more out of it.And there is.For example by utilising a gear system or belt to get a far higher rotational speed on the generator than what the blades would provide, prefably then with quite big blades too and an automatic break for high wind conditions.With the reduced binding forces the generator will be happy to spin at quite high speeds in low winds.Downside is that you will need to build a far more sturdy bearing housing.In return though you get more stability and durability.You can do the math yourself based on the number of poles per ring and magnets to get the output frequency based on the RPM's.Perfect would now be to use a switch mode power supply configuration to directly transform the provided output into a stable DC per ring.And yes, it is possible to use mechanical systems to provide a fixed output speed from the blades to the generator - but way to complex and lossy!Lets do some lame math with no regards to realities:If the original fan would spin at 100 RPM at full speed than we could say our generator should provide the mains voltage at about 100 RPM.Keep in mind we utilise both coil rings and not just the high speed one!Geared and with the blades spinning at 100 RPM we might get as much as 1000V from this little generator....And even with the lower amount of magnets we migh see frequencies above the 500Hz range.The good thing now is that normal iron core transformers can still operate at these frequencies.A bit lossy in the upper range but acceptable for the purpose.Put simple: A 10 or 20:1 transformer per coil ring would provide us with a far more suitable output voltage and much higher amps.If you made it to here than you certainly wonder about other magnet configurations.Checking the stator configuration you will by now realise why I selected the magnet lenght accordingly.The magnets "activate" one coil after the other.The spacing between them means there is always some overlap where the magnets only cover one half of the stator for a coil.This is ok because we don't really have to worry about the resulting messy output.Ideally though you would want to have a magnet activate both coils, the inner and the outer at the same time.What we did though was to make sure that at no time more than ONE magnet fully covers more than ONE coil!It is the best option to cover both coil sets while minimising binding effects and increasing the avialable output.To go the last step you would need to invest a lot of time re-winding all coils :(You don't want to do this unless you have the means and no friends and family that might miss you for a few days....I found a far simpler way to change the coil configuration, although it is not as good a re-winding.So let's go full scale shall we?Ceiling fan reconfiguration!If you take the usual 18 to 9 configuration than one thing jumps to mind reight away: 3-phase power!Cutting the wire that goes from coil to coil might not always be possible and if it is then you need to know how to handle it.Magnet wire can be hard to solder.Burning the coating off results in corroded copper that is even harder to solder.If you are lucky though than a reall hot soldering irong will be able to melt the coating.The flux from the solder will start to cover the wire from the cut and the solder will follow.If not then using some fine sandpaper and time is the other option to remove the coating...Ok, you seperated all coil and have two wire ends per coil?I hope you did not cut off the ones going out to the actual connections to the outside world ;)Properly solder each wire end and take your time to check it is really proper and not just a few spots.Mark or number the coils on the rings!For the inner ring we have 9 but need only 3, so we start at one connection to the outside world and check if this connection is on the outside or inside of the coil.For this example I assume you picked the one that goes to the outside of the coil.Connect the inside wire to the outside wire of coil number 3, assuming we start with 1 here ;)From the inside wire of 3 you go to outside of 6 and the inside is you first new output connection.Do the same with the remaining 6 coils and where needed add the required output wire.It really helps to have wires with three different colors here, one color per new coil set.Note which color corresponds to to the three coils used!!!The outer ring with 18 coils is sightly different here.You see, we want a "flowing" magnetic field that makes best use of the new coil configuration!We can not simply bridge them in any way we feel like without considering how this might affect the electrical side of things.As we now take the approach of a three phase system it makes sense to use a more suitable magnet configuration as well.So before go to the outer ring of coils lets have a look of the best option for the magnets first:The stator packs are evenly spaced in our example and will alow us to use 18 magnets.This provides the best performance with the downside of a higher binding effect, but we need this configuration to get the best possible output.As said at the start I selected magnets that are just shy of being the same length as the corresponding stator segments.In a "free" setup these magnets would now be quite hard to place in a makeshift ring.Even harder in the original casing.A 3D printer certainly helps but some common sense too ;)Wood is easy to work with and if you select the right stuff than making a suitable ring to hold your magnets and attach to the drive system metal parts is not too hard.Bar or brick type magnets can be quite easy be utilised on a wood setup :)The key is that you add Flux Capacitors - sorry couldn't help the reference to Marty....What I mean is to add some magnetic material between the north pole of one magnet and the south pole of the other.Lets say your magnets are 15mm long and have a spacing of 5mm.Then a little plate of 12mm would be next to perfect.This plate needs to connect the magnets on the backside, the side facing away from the coils.Use a dremel tool or what you have to first create slots for the metal strips or bars, then the same for the magnets.Glue in the metal first and once set add the magnet, making sure the always go north to south with their alignment.Ok, and what does this do for us?I hope you are not one of these persons who starts building while reading...What we created now is a shortcut for the magnetic forces.The field between the magnets is severly compromised in terms of being usable for the coils.We do get a much soother run though...I only did that to have some fun and check if you paid attention - sorry :(What we really want is an effect similar to what you see on a loadspeaker magnet that is still in its metal shielding.A ring magnet with one pole on the inside and one on the outside is used here.The shielding provides a path for the magnetic field that is not going through the speaker coil - hence the little air gap for the coil.If we do the same then our efficiency will be going up quite a bit.Take two identical steel parts, like some butter knifes, and prefarbly a force gauge.If you try to pull your magnet at a 90° angle from the blade you will get a certain reading for the required force to lift it off.Most people now think that this would be the max a magnet can hold.So take the other knife and place the magnet between them.If you pull the knife off with the gauge now the reading will be higher than what you get from just the magnet ;)Taking that to our model and keeping the field lines in mind we now know that we could even use slightly longer plates if our magnets happen to be a bit short :)Just place them right behind each magnet !Back to the outer ring of coils....With 18 magnets we get an even system for both coil rings.However we want to make sure that our output waves are syncronised and not at random order.We need to combine two coils to be back on a 9 coil configuration as on the inner ring.The other option is to provide two sets of outputs for outer ring, resulting in 3 3-phase outputs.Both have their pros and cons....But if you check the 18 magnet configuration ina ction over the coils it becomes clear that combining two coils the usual way is possible but also that our inner ring does not get a proper north south action from the magnets!Only the outer coil ring works properly!For the inner ring we never get only a north south combo, instead a lot of mixes.Did I mention to read first? ;)Of course we can only use 9 magnets in our configuration, but at least I did not traick you on their size....You see, we need to account for the fact that the coils are not just evenly spaced but also that all configurations in terms of coils to stator pack are doubles or halfs.Makes a lot more sense if you know how these asyncronous motors work :)With 9 magnets we actually get both inner and outer ring coils activated properly.Plus we now have the benefit that there are always twoouter coils in sync with each other.Means apart from the same way you wired the inner ring you make this addition to the outer ring:"One" outer coil is created by going from one coilinner connection to the outer connection of the second after this, skipping one coil.The resulting output is again just 3 phases but with double the output voltage.The key is to again take notes of how you connect and wire the coils - and the colors used for the output wires!Let me give you an example for the correct order:I we take the number 1 coil on the inner ring then coils number 1 and 18 would be next to it on the outer ring.You want to combine 1 and 3, 2 and 4, 5 and 7,....And you want the resulting three coil packs and wires colores to correspond to the inner coils in the same order!That is true for the always same way of combining coils from the inner to outer connection - or the other way around but never mixed!Ok, we have done the magnets and the coil configuration now properly, no jokes this time!With two simple 3-phase rectifiers we get two DC outputs that can be combined or used seperately.As we end up with roughly double the output voltage on one output but all coils are the same it makes sense to treat them independly.For those who wonder why:If you add a load than one coil system would take a higher loading of it.Meaning while one coil set is stll fine the other will already start to overheat - if the load is too great.So we use two rectifiers with some filtering.In the basic form just a really big electrolytic capacitor of suitable voltage or a full LC filer system with multiple stages.Either way we can now utilise some better DC-DC converters to get going.Considering the equal max watss the coil rings can handle it make sense to include some current limiting.A good converter will provide this option.Both converters can now set to the desiered output or with some added protection diodes and adjusted properly to the same voltage combined for just one DC output.Compared to the standard mod of removing coils and bridgning stator packs the resulting output power in overall Watt will now be about 40-60% higher - depending on the model and quality of parts.Special words of wisdom:Consider the orignal max speed of the fan when used as intendet - see this as a theoretical max output that equals your mains voltage.Just ignore losses and such things - better to be safe than sorry.It becomes clear that it quite possible that your output will be far higher than mains voltage and that you need use transformers for the two 3-phase systems so you can use standard DC-DC converters, which have a max input voltage of around 50V only.This means your converter must be able to handle the higher amps!The fan might have only used 100W or less than 500mA but at high speeds and a ratios of lets say 10 to 1 for the gearing high wind speeds might get it up to over 5 amps on the transformer outputs.Please do the math first for your gear system in relation to the max wind speeds you want to use with your blades!If in doubt use a converter that has some reserves to offer, especially if you aim to charge batteries as quickly as possible.The most vital part however is to ensure that all previously cut wires are isulated properly!!!Magnet wire of the standard kind is good for about 1000V max, so don't drive it higher!Heat shrink with a hot glue liner is prefered but hard to apply in these thight spaces.Since nothing moves consider using long enough wires for your connections so you have enough space to solder without affecting the heat shrink tubes.Liquid insulation or rubber is the last option and should only be used to finalside the heat shrink security measures.Best option once all is confirmed to be working fine would be to make a custom mold and to fully enclose the staotr pack and wires with casting resin or an insulating casting mix.Make sure to keep the output wirese free at the their ends ;)What if I don't want to build a complicated three phase rectifier and just use a single phase system as it was?Firstly chances are your coils are already connected in a three phase configuration, just all in series.But working out a suitable magnet configuration to suit this is much harder if you want to use both sets of coils.In a series configuration like the original you also have to accept the losses from these connected coils.The higher the overall resistance the lower the possible output ;)Main problem however is to get the magnet working properly.The standard 9 or here even 18 magnet configurations still works, especially with the added shielding from behind.But the coils also produce a magnetic field, which grows with the load.Means that an top of all you also have the coils working against the magnets and create even higher losses.Explains why the simple folks prefer not use the inner coil set if they go with a single phase system.So either accept the losses and just use the outer coils or do it fully and get far mor output.And by the way: a 3-phase rectifier modlue is only a few cents more than a standard bridge rectifier ;)Ok, and why do I bother to write all this?People like to tinker but most don't really invent.Following some simple instructions is easy, trying to work it yourself much harder.The reward however is that you actually start to know what you are doing :)And what works for a ceiling fan can be used for these ring style washing machine motors too ;)Anyways...We need to get back our roots.Start thinking for ourself again, work things out instead of just looking them up.If people would be aware that a simple ceiling fan could provide about 3 times the output power of its rated installation value instead of only just about half......Super strong magnets allow real output even without re.winding all coils.And what works here works for other things too.We only learned to use magnets in a striaght way because we can not bend them.But we can bed the magnetic field lines to our advantage!The simple shielding used in this mod is nothing more than a shortcut to enhance the field strenght where it is is needed.By a simple coil modification we basically bet two electrical generators for the price and size of one.Apart from stating how easy it would be to place multiple stators and magnet rings into one generator the magnets itself also allow for even more output.If you ever played with hook magnets or speaker magnets then you know how much stronger they are compared to just the magnet once they seperate after hours of fun for you.Imagine you would replace the single bar magnet with two block magnets that are joined by a magnetic shunt like out simple shielding before.If the magnet blocks now would have a slightly smaller footprint than your individual poles:Imagine you create a hlaf ring shaped magnetic connection between the two blocks that also goes aruond the outer perimeter up to the outside of the magnets surface?I mean the surface facing the stator poles?Damn your imagination is good, yout it right away!Of course we would then have a magnet that allpies its full strength focussed onto each pole of a coil!And of course the resulting field would be far stronger than just using the magnet blocks itself and still significantly higher than just adding a shielding or connection between them.The affect of the next coil coming is also drastically reduced, which in return also increases the efficiency.In terms of numbers:If a fixed neodymium magnet would provide us 100$ field strength as the base point with no shielding (just the magnet blocks alone);A fully shielded and connected system, like in a hook magnet combined with a U-style magnet, would reach above 400% here.....Adding witchcraft to the mix ;)Although I know better I just assume some of you have now a working double-three-phase-ceiling-fan-generator.And that would mean you also have some fans to spare from your long experiments.Modern ignition coils seem to have nothing in common with our ceiling fan or resulting generator.So why do I try to use them anyway?For the ignition only one polarity is prefered so the spark works and travels as intendet.Means the "wasted" energy from the othe half of the pulse seems to be lost.The electronics do a lot here but magnets too ;)The core of the coil has magents at either end, turning it into one long magnet that still has the right properties to act as high voltage transformer system with the coils.The coil appear to be pre-loaded and with the ignition pulse it has to overcome the magnetic field pre-set by the magnets.And when the electrical impulse is off the same magnets also accelerated and increase the resulting fall back impulse - which provides the spark.Unless you have a suitable laser cutter or simlar cutting tech available somehow it will be hard to modify the metal plates of the stator.But if you could...Imagine you could add magnet inside the plates that are inside a coil.The same pre-loading would happen.Does not really help in terms of adding outpur as our rectifier would suffer badly here.It does give ideas though...Shielding works fine for the magnets, same for field shaping.Electromagnets use the same techniques...So why not use some leftlever transformer cores to add more "shortcuts" for the coils?Strips of transformer core sheets added either side of the coils increase their field strenght and result in better output!Three packs either side of the stator pack are usually no problem.Now take your leftovers and do a standard mod.Compare the max output on the same windmill with what you get from my mod(s).The only real magic I used here is that I actually bothered to combine multiple and already used methods to drastically increase the available output of an otherwise utterly useless generator mod ;)Warnings:If you take the above mods serious and to the their extreme than it is imperative to make sure you have safety measures in place!Assume the lowest rating for the magnet wire and if in doubt stick with a max output voltage of 800V.These mods are potentially lethal if you don't follow what is common sense to everyone dealing with high voltages for a living!Most people will start without any gearing or belts and use the wind directly.Even here it is easy to get far higher RPM than what the thing ever did under your ceiling.Without some fixes you will need transformers to reduce the output voltage accordingly.Only other option is to limit the max speed to what your DC-DC converter can handle.Making mistakes with mangets can cost you a lot of time and work, make sure to mark their poles somehow to prevent putting them in wrong.If in doubt then double check!Always keep in mind what the magnet wires and your connections can handle!You don't want any arcs or overheating.Some added electronics to monitor wind speed, rpm's, load and temperature of the coils can turn out vital once you upscale.Before letting your new generator do its thing make sure you tested all to the max!Use a drill or so to speed it up and check the limit regulation for the converters.Measure the actual volts and amps going through your coil sets at assumed max speed and max load.Monitor the coil temp while doing so to ensure nothing is out of limit!You are kidding me here right?A scrap ceiling fan shall provide more output as a wind generator than what was used to spin it as a fan?And of course I need not one but two 3-phse transformers...Pretty clear it is all a fake because nobody could replicate any of it unless limited to what the converters can handle...Didn't I say to think outside normal restraints already?A single phase transformer uses two coils in the most basic configuration.For example one side for 240V and te other for 12V.But some of them are more efficient than other ;)A 3-phase transformer uses 6 coils, two for each phase.And there are plenty of standrad transformer cores out there that would allow us to use this configuration.The worst being the MOT, or microwave oven transformer.Very lossy for a reason but good as an example as these have three core stems ;)Now that you see that you will that a lot more transformers actually allow you to replace the two coils with 6 ;)Ok, but why not use a rectifier first and not use a transformer or two at all?The resulting output voltage will without a gear REDUCTION be much higher than what a cheap DC-DC converter can handle.And at such speeds the effiency would be very bad too.You would need huge capacitors of good quality to deal with the now more impulse like output.And considering the primary side of the transformer does not require anything thicker than the wire on the coils of the fan...Not hard at all to find some suitable tansformers to salvage - or to use some nice ring transformers ;)No kidding around, just facts and possible options you might want to explore.Does that now mean I get free energy?Sure, if you mean you get the free nergy from the energy of the wind at no cost.No if you think a ceiling fan could ever power your house.Internal resistance, size and wire/connection properties set our limits.Not to mention that they are designed to be dirt cheap.If you are in a windy region and assume a realistic 300W minimum output from a 100W fan then adding more stage multiplies this.These fancy upright windmills are not just powerful but also would allow to use one modded fan either end.If big enough and with enough wind force throughout the year you could just add a second or third stage to ech end.With 3 on both ends the resulting output would then be suddenly 1.8kW per windmill....And all from scrap parts with only the costs for the magnets...No wind? Then use water....None of it? Get some greyhounds and build a big hamster wheel :)You get the general idea I hope...

Posted by Downunder35m 25 days ago  |  last reply 24 days ago


Anyone have any interest or experience with proximity based BLE iBeacons/Sensors?

Hi All, I'm semi-tech. & new to the community but figured I'd reach out, so please bear with me as I describe the following ask.Since last yr. I've been on the hunt for a small iOT sensor that based upon close proximity can be identified & actived via BLE without an attached app. Thought an Eddystone may work but purchased a few nRF51822 semiconductors but haven't tested them as yet & not sure if it's even the proper solution. I would need to program this beacon/sensor to launch a website, video on nearby cellphones. NFC works perfect but is extremely limited to only a 5cm range & requires an NFC capable device.I was told to try: "Perhaps the Raspberry Pi 3 Model B+ could work since it supports BLE and also has WiFi:https://www.raspberrypi.org/products/raspberry-pi-... "But I'll need something much smaller [see attached] & less costly per unit. I'm envisioning something no larger than a quarter & powered possibly by a watch battery. Do you think the nrf would suffice?Any suggestions I'm super open as well as just ideation. Thx in advance.

Posted by AxelFoley77 25 days ago


Official Instructables Logos

Occasionally Instructables authors ask for images of the robot to use in their projects. Here are some images, which are available for non-commercial use. If you have questions about image use off of the site, please contact us at service@instructables.com

Posted by seamster 26 days ago  |  last reply 24 days ago