Author Options:

Can running voltage pass through a closed relay? Answered

I am making a device which turns the light in my room on and off. The way I am doing it uses a wireless remote which came with the light, which I control by bypassing the switch with a relay for a quarter second. Any longer than a second and the light starts to dim. I also have an arcade button on a wire spread across my room that, when pressed, bypasses the switch. I know the problem isn't there. The switch has about 4.9 volts running through it when pressed.

The problem I have is when the switch is bypassed it STAYS bypassed and the light keeps dimming up and down. Many times when I connect the remote if the light is off it will turn on and then proceed to dim up and down. When the light is dimming (when it isn't suppose to), about 50 micro volts are running through. Could anything electricity be getting through the relay (I know I have the relay put in the right direction, I did a continuity test)? I have checked for short circus with my multimeter and there are none. Is there a way to fix the problem? Possibly a resistor or voltage regulator, or a way to bring up the turn on voltage? Diode Maby???


How long are the wires from the relay to the wireless switch ?

About six or seven inches. The push button switch wires are more like 12 feet (or longer), if that makes a difference.

I reckon you're getting noise pickup. Put a 100nF cap across the wires, and see what happens.

I connected a 100 nf cap so it was spanning the switch of the wireless remote and nothing changed. Hmmmmm. So next I connected it in line with the wires and still, nothing. So I went up to a 10 uf capacitor and the light stopped dimming (Hooray!), but the switch doesn't work when I have it connected (Awwwwww!). So I got out a couple of other capacitors and tried them. Here's what happened ...
0.47 uf Same as 100 nf
4.7 uf Same as 100 nf (although it was able to keep the light from dimming for a little while, it didn't keep it from happening indefinitely)
100 uf Same as 10 uf
470 uf same as 10 uf
(I see a repeating theme in the capacitance of my capacitors)
anyway, I'm SUPER happy that the light has stopped dimming, but if the switch doesn't work it kind of defeats the purpose of the project. Should I connect the capacitors differently or is it something else?

Hooray! I connected a diode in line with the other wires(so electricity had to go though), and now it works!