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Cheap skate automotive painting question!? Answered

I have a 73 volkswagen transporter type 2 microbus AKA hippy van and I am planning on painting it orange and white. I was just wondering what the best methods would be and such any advice would be much appreciated. Im planning on just sanding it down and using rustoleum to give it a nice cheap paint job

1. Can I paint the rims as well with this paint http://www.homehardware.ca/Products/index/show/product/I1821684/name/paint_alk_rust_trem_green_3_78l

2. Should I use rollers, brushes, or a spraygun to do it?

3. how would I go about prepping rims for painting?


.  Nothing wrong with using Rustoleum for your primer coat(s), but, for color coats, it's really not designed for automotive finishes. But it will work and is reasonably cheap.
.  The main things are prep (get rid of rust, old loose paint, &c), sanding between coats (see manufacturer's recommendations), and making sure everything is compatible - some paints are not compatible with some primers and clear-coats.

here where i live its called the 2k automotive paint system.

Use a spray gun and use the two coat system (i forget the real name) which consists of a paint and a hardener,Prime it first and flat it down to about 800 grit emery paper.Painting a vehicle with other products is just not worth the effort as it looks really crappy and does not last very well,and involves a hell of a lot of work to get all that housepaint of again if you do ever want to do it properly,Im redoing a 72 vw beetle at the moment and sure its a lot of work and takes forever but these rebuilds are worth a fair amount of money if they are done well.So do it well and take your time.Make yourself a really cool one of a kind investment that can only gain in value in the future.

everyones ideas are great i just wanted to add that you need to buff it first and to make it look "prettier" i would suggest that you get some spray on clear coat too.

If you paint with rustoleum, get the kind in the gallon can, not the spray bottle. The spray bottle kind is thinned down so it will take a LOT of cans to do it. Do get a can or 2 of the (same color) spray kind for touching up some difficult to reach spots. I just finished painting a LARGE high-pressure sprayer trailer for a plumbing company and we used the rustoleum from a can as I suggest. We use a small roller to do it so it helps reduce the appearance of brushmarks and brush "hairs" falling off into the paintjob. Be sure to really grind off the rusty spots. We use a hand grinder with a grinding WHEEL, not sandingpad papers. This tool only costs about 20 bucks at harbor freight tools and is a lifesaver if you have any rust to deal with. If you ever do decide to upgrade to professional spray-guns... dont paint with ACRYLIC LACQUER!!! Instead paint using acrylic enamel. The reason is because acrylic lacquer dries before it hits the car unless you are really experienced and know what you are doing. The acrylic enamel takes longer to dry, and is much easier for the beginner to master. Some paints are kind of toxic, so don't breathe the fumes from it especially if SPRAYING !!! wear proper respirators and well ventilated area... not inside your garage. Painting a car is a lot more work than you think it is. It took me about 5 eight hour days to paint the pressure-washer trailer. Picture attached is example of a hand-grinder that will make the rust removal job easy.


Wow....Ive heard people say NEVER use rustoleum to paint a car, but hey if all you can afford or have access to is rustoleum well I guess their opinion doesn't matter. There was someone on here that got good results using that type of paint a search should lead you there. I believe most peoples fears are in relation to rustoleums very poor UV performance. But I guess if you waxed it or live in a not so sunny place the fading would be minimal. I think this is why most people choose white when painting vehicles with this paint.
Other than that, If you sand Always Primer. If the underlying paint is good, dont sand just scuff with scouring pads.
Oh and always if possible use a spray gun. If you are going through this trouble it might as well look decent! And for the wheels do the same. VW wheels are pretty small and they have a hub cap so you could hand brush these and get away with it.
I hope this helps but its almost 130 here and Im Tired! LOL

We painted a friend's van using rustoleum (and paint brushes) many years ago, when I was but a starving college student. It was camouflage, looked ridiculous, but got the job done.

My brother once painted a car with house paint. He reports that the result was as awful as you would expect.

A car really needs paint job with a very smooth finish. For an amateur, spray is more likely to achieve that than brush

I did use Krylon spray paint to touch up some areas of my old beater, applying it over a layer of rust-converting primer (which I highly recommend for this application). It definitely looked like a repair since the color match wasn't exact, but given that this was a $300 car that was OK... it looked much better than rust, and it protected the metal which was the critical thing.

Rims take a beating. I suspect that finding paint which both adheres well and stays moderately flexible is going to be important. I think I'd stick with something made for the purpose.

Before you go too far down this road: Think about how many cans of primer and paint you're going to need. Think about safety equipement -- you REALLY don't want to be breathing this stuff in any quantity. Think about the mess as spray paint drifts. Think about the hassle of protecting it while paint dries. Think about the time spent masking the things you don't want paint on. Think about how much of a hassle it's going to be to paint the roof -- which, on a van, is one of the prime places for rust to start. Then think about the fact that many auto body shops will be willing to do a "cheap and cheerful" paint job for under $500 -- it won't be the most durable or most elegant, but if all you want to do is change the color and protect the vehicle for the next five years or so, it will likely be sufficient. This may be a case where DIY is not the cheapest way to go.

Check This out: $50 paint job
Cheap but a LOT of work.

About 25 years ago I painted an International with Rustoleum and foam brushes (Not rollers) and got a passable 2 tone paint job .

Just a few basic tips.
Prep is crucial,
Remove trim and lights and mask what can't be removed. 
Use primer, Prime-sand -clean dust off well, prime again.....
(Tack cloth for removing dust)
Thin the paint and use several coats (sand and clean between coats)
Paint in a dust free area, not on a windy day and not in the sun.
Rustoleum is limited in colors so if you have to mix to get the desired color, make sure to mix enough for the whole job or it will never match.