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Electric Mower will not start, trips the breaker? Answered

I have a Task Force model #25143 electric mower (corded) that suddenly stopped while I was cutting some grass that I admit was probably too tall.  I have had no previous problems with it whatsoever since I bought it new last year.  After some searching I found out that it had tripped the breaker (was plugged into the GFI outside the house).  It's only a short cord--an extension must be used.  I bought a new one last month, but tried two other ones just to be sure--no change.  I tried using a different outlet--no change.  I tried using an inside outlet and promptly tripped that breaker as well.  I checked the blade, it spins freely, there was a small amount of grass on the shaft above it, I removed that.  There was a lot of cut grass on the underside of the deck (it's a mulching mower) and I removed all that going to the side discharge and the chute where the bag would be.  I took off the cover to the motor, there was some grass and dust in there, I cleaned it all out.  As for the connections, they are still clean as a whistle--no rust, corrosion, burning, fraying, etc. they still look new.  I was looking for a fuse and couldn't find one, checked by the motor and in the handle where the switch is.  After all this it still trips the breaker so I'm thinking there has got to be a short. The plug side of the extension cord was warm.  I found an answer that said use a multi-meter and I suppose I could go buy one but then what do I do with it?  I don't know what I'm supposed to hook it to and I don't know what any of the readings would mean.  I'm too low on cash now to pay for repair or buy a new one and where I live the grass needs to be cut almost 2x a week--any advice?  How can I find the short or is the motor gone?  I also read about motor "brushes" but don't think I saw any not that I would know what they look like anyway.  I included pics of the switch and the motor.



6 weeks ago

See the brush holders in the first picture.. There are thousands of brush types no universal sizes. A good motor man could shape the brushes to fit..

Please look at the copper bars to see the if they are horribly scarred and blackned as you turn the blade.. Give some allowance for brush wear.. With two power blow fuses there should be some craters where the arc smoke I saw originated from.

Any way short of coming to Reno where I can really examine the beast, I don't see an easy fix.

BTW as you are alive. Kudos on unplugging the machine when you work on it :-)


I ordered a replacement cement resistor on Amazon, but the part I received has much longer metal tabs than the original. Do I have to order the precise part from Greenworks, or is it possible to connect this one to the connectors in my mower?

The resistor is the component that reduces the spin down time (Dynamic Brake)..

As long as the resistance is the same and you can fit it in the machine it will do fine in braking the motor at turn off.

Click the pic to see the entire image !


Thank you @iceng! I'm uncertain how to install the replacement resistor because it has terminals that don't fit into the snap-on clips on the end of the wires on the mower (see pic). Perhaps they have to be attached with solder? I'm attaching an image of the 2 resistors so you can see what I mean.

Lawn mower_concrete resistor_labeled.jpg

I see what you mean.. You will have to solder several turns of the stranded wire to make sure it holds..

What made you determine that the resistor needed to be replaced ?

With No resistor the motor will STILL RUN but not stop as Quick !

Hmmm, that's interesting. I tried replacing the rectifier 1st but after installing the new rectifier, when I hit the start button a wisp of smoke came out of the motor and it immediately tripped the breaker. Without understanding the function of the resistor, I thought I'd replaced the wrong part. Now I'm wondering if I either mis-installed the rectifier or broke a connector while trying to attach it. Or, could the starter be broken? I'm trying to resist throwing the mower in the landfill, but I also don't want to electrocute myself.

I would try to look at the state of the carbon brushes..


Hi iceng. Thanks again for your wise advice! It is truly appreciated! The Greenworks parts list only has the full motor assembly, which is too expensive relative to replacing the mower itself. Are brushes a standard part that can be sourced elsewhere?

My mower had the exact same problem. I fixed it by replacing the rectifier. It costs about one dollar.

The rectifier, more correctly called a full wave bridge rectifier, is a little metal square with 4 prongs coming out of it. It has some black resin preventing electrical arcing under the metal. The prongs are likely facing up in your mower, and it has one metal screw hole right through the center.

You can buy a replacement off ebay buy-it-now for 1 dollar with free shipping. Don't worry about getting the exact same model number, as long as its around 50 amps and 1000 volts it should be fine. Just search for "bridge rectifier 50a" and find one that looks the same as yours.

Just remember the orientation of the wires (take a picture with your cell phone for reference) and yank all the plugs off. Unscrew the rectifier and screw the new one in its place. You can also add thermal compound between the metal back of the rectifier and the metal heatsink its screwed into; this will help prevent it from breaking again in the future. Plug the plugs back into it and you should be working again.

watch this video:



Well...after going thru all of what was printed ..I decided to just remove the motor for my Grenworks 21" electric Mower and look inside it! Duuuh..should have done that first and save me some time....the motor was fried in one spot(Copper wires blackened). I changed the rectifier and of course...changed the motor! Lawnmower works again.....$30 for new motor and $7 for new recdtifier!

sorry not rectifier.....capacitor!

Sorry, forgot to attach photos.

2015-08-18 12.58.11 - Copy.jpg2015-08-18 12.58.22.jpg2015-08-18 12.58.37.jpg

Yours is an old style series AC motor (no PM field) these machines are rugged until the brushes are fully worn out then there is a very poor armature connection.

When the armature cannot turn it gets hot enough to burn the varnish.

Thanks for the info....doesn't mean much to me, but if I get it right, this is one dead mower. :-( Would have been nice if it could be repaired, but guess I'll have to buy a new one.

I am having the same problem with a Lawnmaster 18" mower....cutting grass as usual yesterday, not very long, just a tidy up. Suddenly smelt burning. Switched off the mower and flipped it over to see smoke coming from below. When I let it cool down and switched it on, it only ran for about 2 seconds and cut out. I tried 3 times and it started each time but then stopped quickly. It did not trip the wall GFI switch, so something in the mower is stopping it. I took the top shell off mower, cleaned out some dried grass and checked the motor. I know nothing about mowers but wondered if this could be the same problem (bridge capacitor). Attached photos show that there doesn't seem to be a part like that on my mower. Any suggestions on what could be causing it to cut out?

Ya the Taskforce does not have screws to take off the brushes.

I guess that is why they DIScontinued this product. Taskforce were not very good mowers apparently. I bought a REEL . IT works great.

My mower is 4 years old. Taskforce. 25143. Do I need a new mower?

I tried the new rectifier. IT isnt that. IT still keeps tripping the breaker.

Is the motor GONE? HOW much are they? Are they easy to replace?

is the motor easy to replace


3 years ago

Thanks for this posting - tried to use my Task Force (I think I used it 2 times last year - bigtime drought here) and it is totally dead. I'm going to order the rectifier - since I'm not throwing circuit breaker maybe something else is wrong, but this is the first info I've had to at least give me an option. BTW I also have that clear button on the handle, but pushing it doesn't do anything. I'm guessing that using the grass catcher along with the tons of dust kicked up might have done it in - just seems odd that it worked fine on the last go and after sitting for six+ months it was dead.Any other ideas I'm happy to try - just lmk - thanks!

Photos of the connections on the Homelite Electric Mower, and of the old rectifer.

2015-05-06 13.48.47.jpg2015-05-06 13.33.14.jpg

These Instructions also worked well for a Homelite Electric 3 in 1 Mower. Looks almost identical to photos above (slightly different color wires). Mower stopped in heavy grass, tripped breaker, would not restart. I tested with a multimeter (using https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dqkT6hF0O3E as a method) and then replaced the bridge rectifier. Digikey delivered the bridge rectifier to Canada in 2 Days, shipped out of Manitoba so no hassle with customs clearance or additional charges. $6 for part and 8$ for delivery. I bought a 25A 400V bridge rectifier part no GBPC2504-E4/51GI-ND as a replacement. The original failed rectifier has part no KBPC2504 on it. Thanks for the original posts!

PurpleMom could you please explain to me what you did to get this fixed exactly? Which bridge capacitor did you buy? How did you install it and where? I'm guessing it's on the handle control unit. Did you take that black-gray box apart with all the wires going into it? Or did you buy a new one of those? If you took it apart does the bridge capacitor/rectifier just come unplugged? Then you plug a new one in?

My mower is doing the exact same thing as yours so it would be great if I could get a few more details from you to fix mine. THANK YOU!!!!

I don't remember where I ordered the part from, but I'm including 2 new pics--1 of the part itself and 1 of the location in the mower. It's on the deck next to the motor, and all those wires plug onto the terminals sticking up from it. I took my part off (it's only held on by a single Phillips head screw through the center) and studied it. Then I did a web search for "KBPC2504" which was marked on my part. Bingo! Lots of things came up, with pics that looked just like mine. I browsed some and chose a site that had images and measurements, compared those to mine, and ordered 2 since they were only about $2 each. Figured I could risk less than 10 bucks. Shipping charge was small. Worked like a charm and I have a spare just in case it were to happen again. Hope this at least gives you a starting point, I know lots of things could be wrong, but sometimes the answer is really simple and just takes some trial and error. I still don't own a voltmeter! :-P Sometimes you just get lucky, though you wouldn't think it to look at the rest of my life!


I don't know if anybody is still following these comments, but I wanted to shout out a HUGE "thank you" for your photos and information. I had the same problem with a different brand (Greenworks) electric mower and decided to buy the bridge rectifier (which is the identical part that you posted here) and it worked like a charm! You saved me tons of money!!

You are awesome! I actually took both the handle and the motor area apart yesterday after I posted to you and immediately saw the bridge rectifier in the engine area. I did the exact same thing you did. Took pics and ordered the part after a google search. I was going to post them today for others but you beat me to it! Hopefully this thread well help out others as well. My lawn mower is doing the exact same thing as yours, so I'm pretty sure this will fix it as well. If not I'll post more later. Thanks again!

I just wanted to give an update on this. This worked on my mower as well. Although I ordered a different part as I saw from below that it might be better to get a slightly higher amp bridge rectifier so it won't burn out as fast. It was super easy to fix and install like PurpleMom has stated. In case you need a link to the part I ordered its -

Just under $3 and got it running like a new mower again. The original part is rated at 12.5 amps, the one I ordered is at 15 amps.

Should add it's part # GBPC1504DI-ND in case that link doesn't work.


6 years ago

Where does the blue wire Go ?

Trying to make a schematic of this contraption.


well id say it goes in to the bundle of wires but other than that i have no idea, it looks like it probably is the opposite of the yellow wire so find the yellow to find the blue

it could be a ground wire but i doubt that

Thanks to the good (author) photo the blue joins the green
on the DC bridge.. -.-. . -. --.

Final  Circuit  Wiring.
This includes a resistor to limit current through the switch when
stopping the blade inertia as a dynamic brake. 

If you can lift the blue wire from the brush and switch the power on.
A shorted bridge will trip the breaker.. -.-. . -. --.


Read this again

YES! This is 100% what happened too! I am looking for a replacement for mine they don't seem to be very expensive in general.

Thanks for the conformation :)

Those DC bridges are not supposed to ever fail,
unless a cheep design engineer put a low current bridge in your mower.

And when you started cut the high grass,
that extra load did damage to the DC bridge.

A.. -.-. . -. --.

Instead of blowing house breakers, my Task Force 25113 just stopped working when I hit the "high grass". There was a circuit breaker with a translucent flexible cover on the right handle bar on the inside of the black plastic housing that the power cord passes through. I just pushed the black plastic button of the breaker-switch by pressing on its translucent flexible cover that I previously referred to and my mower came back to life. :)

I have an Earthwise mower with nearly identical setup, based on the pictures. Mine trips the breaker as soon as I plug it in. It doesn't even wait for me to pull the activation lever. Would this be the same issue, or is my problem in the switch itself?

A HUGE THANK YOU TO ALL OF YOU FOR HELPING OUT! It started up first try after installing the new Bridge capacitor, which only took about 2 minutes. I appreciate your patience and the effort you gave. Now my only excuse will be "it's just too hot to mow the lawn right now!" Thanks again.

I am guessing that your electric mower is wired in a way that is similar to the wiring in this picture,
from that page I linked to yesterday,

There are only so many things that could go wrong here.

My intuition is telling me that it is probably the bridge rectifier (the little 4 terminal black brick there). Guessing that it failed in such a way that it sort of turned into a short.

Supposing the bridge rectifier is capable of tripping the breaker all by itself; i.e. if you unplug the red+yellow connector from the (+) terminal of the bridge rectifier, and unplug the green+blue connector from th (-) terminal of the bridge rectifier, then that will leave just the white and black wires, which get connected to the (120V?) mains power when you turn the switch on.  Anyway if that little black box can trip your breaker all by itself, then that's probably where your short is.

But it is kind of crude, to keep using your breaker as your test equipment.

I know you said you did not know how to use a multimeter, but this is kind of a strange sentiment to hear from someone who wants to fix something electrical.  It's sort of like saying you want an omelet, but you don't really know how eggs work. I mean, what do you do? Find someone who does understand eggs, to make the omelet for you? Maybe.

Zaronas mentioned cheap voltmeters, and a retail chain in the Former US called HarborFreight(r), e.g:
It turns out that I like their voltmeters too. Mostly because they're cheap, and that way I don't feel too bad when I accidentally break one.

Now the part where I teach you how to use a voltmeter... Ha! ;-)

Well, I mean it's not that hard, unless you have to explain to someone else how to do it. Explaining it is hard!

Anyway, in the context of examining a bridge rectifier, like the person in this video is doing,
How To Test A Bridge Rectifier With A Digital Multimeter DMM

Basically what is happening is that he is examining the individual diodes in the bridge.  Diodes only conduct in one direction, so that is sort of what is going on with the action of swapping the probes and trying the measurement again. If you find a diode in the bridge that is conducting in both directions that's bad news.  It means one of the diodes has turned into a short, and the whole bridge needs to be replaced.

If your meter has a diode-test setting, it should be switched to that setting when testing diodes.  Sorry if any of this seems obvious.

Well, I don't know how to use a multimeter because I have never had one. Maybe it's easy, I also can't drive a stick shift but I might be able to do that too. I don't WANT to know how to fix electronics, I just have no budget to do anything but fix everything myself no matter what it is. I had to change out the run capacitor on my house's AC, and I had a burnt contact--I stripped the wire and crimped a new contact on there and now it's going great. I didn't want to do that either, but I had no choice it's 90 with 80% humidity and I'm poor. I have no clue what that wire does, but it works now. So, until someone wants to come to my house and fix everything for free or I win the lottery it will be like this. I just have to keep learning. If I have to learn about diodes, resistors, and capacitors, I will--but for right now I just need to mow my lawn before I get fined. :-P There is a HF Tools near here and I have a semi-free day Thursday I will try to get one. PS...my omelets are fantastic and I even crack the eggs myself, and my theory is the chicken came first.

You'll have to forgive Zaronas and I for evangelizing, for trying to draw you into the temple of the multimeter.  But this is our culture, and people outside this culture seem strange and primitive to us. 

For example, anthropoligists like to tell stories,
of primitive societies they've discovered, who have no words for, and no concept of, numbers greater than about two. The usual way the story is told is that their entire number system consists of, "one", "two", and "many". Any number greater than two is just "a lot", or "many". For such a people, more abstract mathematical concepts like, addition, multiplication, or even compound interest, would be so abstract as to be incomprehensible.

You might wonder at these people, wonder how they could get by without being able to calculate the interest on their bank accounts, or the gas mileage their SUVs are getting, but somehow they do.

And somehow you managed to fix your air conditioner, without the aid of a multimeter. I am impressed by this.  Also for your electric lawnmower, it is starting to look like it is definitely that bridge rectifier. That too, it seems you have figured out, without using a multimeter. At this point a multimeter would serve only to confirm the bridge rectifier is broken, and you might wonder at the value of that.

Nonetheless, I claim a multimeter is a useful tool to have around, and you will probably find uses for it in the future, if you continue to follow the path of learning about electricity,
and if the electric things you own keep breaking, and that's pretty much a certainty based on the perverse philosophy, of  "planned obsolescence", of the people who manufacture these things.

I don't know how fast your grass grows, but probably the next move in this game is going to be to find a new bridge rectifier.  Offhand I cannot think of any brick-and-mortar type stores that would have this part. I think the author of,
suggested Digikey (http://www.digikey.com) and that's probably as good a place as any.
I think the parameters you're going to want are: peak inverse voltage greater than 300V, forward average current greater than about 25 A, and a size and shape that will fit neatly in the space where the old one was, also with its four little blade connectors
 the same size as before.  That way you can just slip the old connectors onto it.
This kind of looked like a good one:
The data sheet
said its little blade connectors were about 0.25 inches in width, and I am guessing that is the same size as your connectors, just from looking at the picture you upped.  Be sure to actually measure the width of those connectors yourself, just to make sure the replacement will fit. 

BTW, one sort of annoying thing about these mail-order electronic partsmongers is many of them have a minimum order of like 10 USD or so, and then there's shipping on top of that. 

I think Digikey has a zero minimum order, but I am not sure about that.

The surplus-selling places like Electronic Goldmine, or BGMicro, will tend to have better prices, but with limited selection,  compared to the strictly new parts sellers like Digikey or Jameco.  Actually, finding parts is a topic I have written a few words about before, here:


6 years ago

Could you interrupt the black wire going to the bridge in the first pic.
Then try turning it on and see if it pops anything ?

Repeat the process with only the white wire detached please ?


I tired both--same results--the breaker does not trip with only one or the other connected.