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Has anyone out there changed motor mount (top) on 2003 Ford Focus with the 2.0L SPI engine?? The dealer wants $500.00? Answered

Focus motor mount swap

I'm looking for info on changing the top motor mount on a 2003 Ford Focus with 2.0L SPI engine. I have a Haynes repair manual which is of no help.


Hi I have a 03 ST170 and the engine mounts have snapped will they be the same on all models and size engines ??

Why doesn't the Haynes help ? Given how you access things like the clutch to repair it, usually involves removing one engine mount or the other, I'd read up on "removing the transmission" and wing it from there.

I know when I did my UK Ford, one mount was hidden under the battery. It wasn't hard to remove though.

What's the actual problem ?


Hi Steve

Thanks for the reply, I believe one of the mounts is broken. Haynes just doesn't give enough detail for me.


Hi George,

THE key thing is adequate suspension of the engine BEFORE you remove the old mount. I cannot vouch for your US-ian Ford, but my UK-ian Ford HAS a suspension point on the head for doing such things. A Mondeo (another UK Ford) had similar arrangement...but not if you have the head off, so there we used wood to cushion the sump carefully.


Hi steve

Thanks for responding, I found the exact job on you tube & it couldn't be easier, everything could be done from the top with the exception of jacking the engine. My daughter is once again a happy driver with all the vibration and noise gone.


Great. Its not a hard job, but can be fiddly.


Seconded: What isn't clear from the manual?

(I have to admit, I usually spring for the OEM shop manual. Yes, it's four times as expensive. However, it is usually much clearer. This may not matter to someone who is more experienced, but it does for me.)

Thirded. I'm tempted to tinker with my clutch over the winter if I get a cheap substitute car for the meantime -- first is getting difficult/grindy when its cold out, and the clutch feels worn.

.  I don't know about the newer cars, but old cars had adjustments for wear on the clutch linkage. You may just need to make a few, usually very simple, adjustments. If you do much more than that, you will most likely have to drop the transmission.
.  If you end up replacing the clutch, get the flywheel surfaced and get a new pressure plate.

Agreed, I mean my synchromesh is not a happy camper when it gets cold...AND I need a tightened clutch.

I did a little research and yeah, the clutch part seems fairly easy with the right tools -- dealership wants 3-5 hours of labour to do it (also seems reasonable if expensive) -- but the internals are what scares me a bit. I'm still a bit hazy on how a synchromesh works.

I read up on it at howstuffworks.com -- the dog teeth are how the gears actually engage. The synchromesh is a friction-only conical connection that rubs before the dog teeth come in contact; getting the freewheeling gears up to speed before trying to mesh them, otherwise, you need to 'double clutch'. The first clutch is to get out of gear...then while the clutch is engaged, the engine is spun up to the correctish speed (what the synchromesh would have done) - clutch is applied to disconnect the two - and the dog teeth are engaged...sneaky!

. Whoever thunk it up must have been pretty smart.

I would shop around but I have to warn you that replacing a motor mount is labor intensive. You need to lift and suspend the engine while you work underneath to replace both motor mounts. Usually the one on the driver side goes first but I would change both at the same time.

Hi wrivera6

In my other life I probably have over 30 years experience, 60s, 70s & 80s. I guess my question is, is the job straight forward? I've changed engine mounts on plenty of Chevrolets & Chryslers, it's dirty work but there is no mystery to it. I don't want to get into it & find out I'm over my head.

Thanks for the reply.