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I need help to braze 308 and 316 steel rod Answered

I'm a glass bead maker and silver jewelry maker. I'm trying to braze 308L steel rod to make some jewelry displays. I have had limited success using my regular silver jewelry solders and griffith flux but the joints are weak and easily broken.

I have a torch but I need to know which filler material to use and which flux I should buy for it. So far I've been unable to fathom it out.



We use Johnson-Matthey Easy-Flo flux on stainless routinely, and a conventional medium melt silversolder- the flux is good for brazing too. Dead easy, good flow characteristics, easy clean up.


Thanks Steve - that's exactly the info I needed!

So I can continue to use my conventional silver solder - I'll try medium rather than hard then, and see if I can find this flux in the US. Any US equivalent anybody?

Funnily enough I use the very rod I am trying to braze as a soldering pick (jewelry) as the solder doesn't stick to it - but of course it's oxidised and that was the problem I was finding with some of my joints so I figured I needed a better stronger flux for the job.

Interesting; thanks, Steve! So either my lab engineer is a bit too old-school (what I wrote is what I learned from him), or I don't understand all the nuances of actual physical building :-)

My experience with process control engineers (for gas flow and fluid distribution applications) is that you don't generally braze stainless. The basic problem, as I understand it, is that all of the 300-series stainless steels are non-wetting, so the solder doesn't stick very well. Normally, you'd weld stainless, and you need to do so in an inert atmosphere (otherwise you get adsorbed reactive molecules which diffuse through the metal and reduce its strength).

Having said that, a Google search for brazing stainless steel turned up several sites with useful guidance.