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NE555 tesla coil Don Smith ignition coil Tesla coil.....? Answered

I know I've requested info on this previously, but there are still some info I am lacking.
The questions I have are these: for the 2 nf capacitors, at what voltage rating would be best to use.
For the lack of my own intelligence, could somebody tell me in what direction the power flows? (direction in the diagram)

I have almost all the parts save for the nf caps and the 2 diodes. does anyone have a suggestion of what kind of HV diode I could use for the 45KV diode? unfortunately the exact rating with 1-2Amps of a 45KV diode so far is WAY to expensive for me. Any suggestions?

What would the approximate power output from the ignition coil be?



6 years ago

Simple math based on power in is power output the IRF9130 can
handle 10A @ 12V for half the time is 60 watts input power and
at 100% efficiency 60 w output at say 10 KV is a current of 6ma
ergo you don't need an expensive diode.
just a 20kv 20ma diode is all your set up can deliver.

This is no Tesla ( Tesla = an RF HV AC device )
your device is a plain HV DC supply.
15KV is probably more then the car coil insulation can handle.


From all I've read, (and I've researched tesla for just over a year) everything states that a Tesla Coil is DC powered and not RF. (extreme Hz on/off frequencies)
The diagram above is taken from a Don Smith design, he stated in my readings that 35Khz is like a sweet spot when it comes to magnetic pulsations and the more power pumped in the greater the result.

Any thoughts?

Thank you for the info, I greatly appreciate it!

I still Worry you may touch what you believe is your DC Tesla and Die.

It is the RF property in a Tesla that causes current to flow outside of your body ( called skin affect ) without hurting you.   .   .   .   A


the skin effect doesn't mean it flows along the skin of the body, it means it runs on the outside of a conductor instead of within it at high voltages and high frequencies. If the specific frequency of the body is reached whether it is ac or dc, the person could easily shut down and die. High frequencies aren't felt if above a specific range and they will flow through the body. This does NOT mean it doesn't hurt you, it could be deadly,. but it is still dependant upon the total wattage pushed through one's body. If you are running an NST with an output of 5ma at 5kV the wattage running through one's body would be dependent on the resistance of the person's body, however, if the resistance was very low, or zero, the maximum wattage would be 25 watts.. If the system is pulsed energy through a coil and it is converted from conventional energy to cold electricity, and fed through an Avramenko plug, the output won't harm the body until it is converted back to conventional electricity through a capacitive medium, which would store very high amperages that were generated by electricity manifest by low or no amperage high voltage back emf oscillations. There are supposedly several types of electricity that science does not accept or list in the books.. The characteristics of them are currently unknown, so the dangers are also unknown, but I could offer some insight as to the nature of cold electricity.. The resistance works opposite to that of ohm's law. If we have a higher resistance, cold electricity flows with much higher outputs. Conventional systems, the resistances need to be very low to allow high output power. This is why a tesla hairpin circuit would illuminate a 20 watt light bulb much brighter than a 100 watt light bulb. It is because the power flows through high resistances and will not go through low resistances or impedances. See Karl Palsness's videos and texts for a valid source..

I thank you for your concern. Christ willing I hope to obtain the same results Nikola Tesla and Don Smith obtained.
As for the Radio Frequencies, I don't really care as long as I end up with transmission of energy.

Someday I'd like to put together something similar to Tesla's Colorado lab and the stuff he built there. To be able to generate powerful arcs and not be concerned about any amount of electrocution.

That picture is of the Modern Thinking Man from possibly Tesladownunder, I could be wrong though. He used aluminum foil under his clothes.

All I have left to gather are the diodes and perhaps homemade capacitors. any suggestions on the possibility of using glass jars or bottles instead?

AC or DC powered does not mean it isn't RF or not . RF is the frequency range being 3kHZ and higher, that's all. These frequencies could be pulsed dc or ac, it doesn't matter. In the end, once a load is added to the output of any coil, whether or not it uses a pulsed dc input or an ac sinewave at 3+khz, the output waveform will normally become a sinewave at the load anyway, unless it is otherwise persuaded with coils fed with other signals to create a harmonic or some special output, especially if the load is resistive, The voltage is either AC or DC, and it has no bearing on whether or not it is RF with AC or DC. RF means Radio frequency (RF) and is any of the electromagnetic wave frequencies that lie in the range extending from around 3 kHz to 300 GHz, which include those frequencies used for communications or radar signals.[1] RF usually refers to electrical rather than mechanical oscillations. However, mechanical RF systems do exist (see mechanical filter and RF MEMS).

Although radio frequency is a rate of oscillation, the term "radio frequency" or its abbreviation "RF" are used as a synonym for radio – i.e., to describe the use of wireless communication, as opposed to communication via electric wires.

Electric currents that oscillate at radio frequencies have special properties not shared by direct current or alternating current of lower frequencies.

It depends on the specific coil but generally, most standard automotive coils can output as much as 30KV, high performance coils even more.

The coil I've purchased is
Omc Johnson evinrude outboard motor ignition coil.

in your personal experience with Tesla coils, what would you advise for the most basic of operations ie: parts and setup, voltage and coil lengths/weights?
Im simply curious is all, I have no personal experience with them, I've read a lot and watch many vids, asked many questions and am now in the process of gathering all parts for what I hope (god willing) will provide the same results Nikola Tesla and Don Smith achieved.

It is not that I believe I can produce more power then there is present going in, but that, with gathered info, I hope to obtain energy from the surrounding environmental "vacuum" Aether that was described in ancient times, by Einstein, Nikola Tesla, Don Smith, and multitudes of others...

If it works Great! if not, .....................................=-/

For the 2 nF caps anything above 10V will be fine.

The bottom rail of the diagram is the negative therefore the electricity moves from the bottom upward.

For ignition coils in the past I have chained about 50 1n4007 diodes in series and it works fine.

I completely forgot to ask about the 30nf...
I understand series, but the exact reference you are indicating is lost to me. do you mean series extending from the coil or connecting all the parts on the bottom?
I've read that I can substitute the caps with bottles and jars, any suggestion on what I could do for that?

What I mean by series is to get your numerous diodes and solder them in series with each other then connect them into the circuit together.

With the capacitors I would suggest you don't use one there (I don't and it works fine).

50 diodes may be a bit excessive but it all depends on what voltage your ignition coil throws out and you don't want to take any chances and wreck all your diodes.

Also I don't know haw much power output an ignition coil has and it would vary from circuit to circuit, but based on what I have done with them in the past you would at best be able to properly power a 2 inch diameter coil with it. (It couldn't really power my 3inch coil).

I don't have any nf caps, I have several 10v caps at 1-2.2k uf, several smaller 6.? 47uf caps. would they work the same or would it be better if I were to attempt to make an nf cap? If so, how?

If you mean the C1 capacitor, you cannot make one out of regular capacitors because it needs to hold up to 50kV.

k, thank you, but i am asking if you know how to make suitable caps out of jars and bottles? would ignoring the diodes and adding a hv cap with adjustable spark gap work as well, or should i stick with the diagram?

If C1 is your tank capacitor then you will definitely need it if not ignore it and you will always need the diode for a ignition coil throws out a bit of AC even though you powering it on DC therefore you need to rectify it with the diode.

And there are many instructables on glass capacitors.

Thank you, I needed that, without it I never would've known! unfortunately I don't have money for any caps, I have several uf caps, but none in nf.

Also, would you have any guess to the on/off frequency of the circuit? the frequency is the most important part for me, the greater the on/off rate (the shorter it turns on/off) the better i will be able to work with.

I did a google search and found this: http://www.sentex.ca/~mec1995/circ/hv/hvcap/hvcap.html

do you think it would be safe for me to combine the diodes without resistors and caps? I'd do that if I could, but sadly I only have enough for the diodes...=-/

Those methods of HV capacitor making will be adequate.
The circuit oscillates at approximately 110Hz.
I don't use resistors with my diodes and they do fine and caps won't be necessary.
(Also the 100nF capacitor is unnecessary).

Plus I add to iceng's concern under no circumstances do not touch the ignition coil or any capacitors it has charged in operation (and after operation with the capacitors). Even if you touch one electrode this can still result in electrocution.

I suppose you have put the circuit together?

This here is the complete diagram (It's taken sometime to remember how to copy it from the site) I can't quite tell if the primary is connected to the or the ground secondary. it seems to be connected to both.

As for the other with the secondaries connected, it states that the person was able to gather more power without increasing the load.


So it looks like the 30nF capacitor is the TC tank capacitor therefore it will be necessary, so you will need to construct one.

And the primary should only be connected to the output of your tank circuit.

Then if I understand it correctly, the primary coil has only 1 connection?
Can you tell if it is plain or grounded? I am having great difficulties deciphering if the coil is grounded.
Yea, 1 connection kinda eliminates the ground.... still...

Have you done any research on how a regular SGTC actually works, I spent more than a month researching trying to figure them out before I actually started to build one.

Here is how a SGTC schematic looks.

I've been doing research for over a few years now. I started out trying to find electrical math to aid me in building a motor/generator combo, but was unable find much that would actually help.
I learned of John Searls SEG looking up over unity about 2 years ago.
Then I chanced upon Nikola Tesla and the website free-energy-info.co.uk and learned far more then I could have via random searches.

The part of the diagram that puzzles me is the connection of the primary, it shows no manner of return to source as would any ordinary DC/AC Tesla coil would have.

So, as for the 3 nf capacitors, would simple glass bottle capacitors do? I don't want to burn out the 555 timer.

it doesn't show on the coil of the tesla coil, but one side of the coil is Earth grounded, and the other goes to the output. The output of the circuit shows one in RED that is the hot leg powering the primary coil,. The other output wire is non existent but it does show 0 volts, and the hint is that it is grounded,. this always means the other side of the primary coil needs to be grounded. If NO av plug is used, then the coil must be connected with a return, which it is, such as all Tesla coils have.

Glass caps won't do with the 100 and 440nF caps you need proper ones but for the 30nF glass caps will do fine.

As for the other end of the primary that needs to connect to the 0V connection.

=-) k, what kind would you recommend for the 100 & 440? or perhaps a recommendation for materials to make them?
Would ordinary uf caps do, because I seriously doubt that I have any nf, let alone the money to buy them........

Thanks for the second connection bit. um, so I simply connect the other end of the primary to the 0v end which connects to the battery and everything will be fine?

Admittedly, there were other schematics of which would've been much more simple, but I figured that the setup I'm working with would be easiest for me to do.

I would recommend ceramic capacitors for the 100 and 440, you can not make these, but you can salvage them from any old electrical scrap that has a circuit. (You may not find the right capacitances so you will need probably a few circuits).

And yes just connect it to the 0V.

Also are you sure you can't scratch up 20c for the 2 capacitors?

Well, I think I may have 1, but I haven't the slightest clue on how to determine the ratings. On ebay, the 100nf ceramic caps show 50 volts; I assume that is an acceptable voltage?

As for scrapping the parts from hardware, I don't know what devices would have the ceramic caps...

Most ceramic caps are 25V+ and they will do fine for your circuit.

And I don't really know myself what circuits would have ceramic caps.

I thank you greatly! You have been most helpful to me. without (mostly) your assistance, I would've had the greatest difficulties in achieving the answers myself!
The only parts I don't exactly have are the 470 resistors, but I do have several variables that should do the trick anyway. sadly, I haven't the faintest way to know if the variable is at the 470 mark, so I will simply either search up the singulars and connect them together or just leave it at 500. Any thoughts?

I bought an ignition coil through ebay, but it should've arrived on friday. first time this has happened for me. I haven't even received a reply from the seller for the tracking #...........yeeesh..=-/

you stated that the diode just needs to be more than 10kV but the cap needs to hold up to 50kV.. That doesn't make much sense to me because the cap would be exposed to the same output voltage as the diode, also, the diodes must have a specific forward voltage with any size, and may need to see a specific amount of voltage before it even conducts. By adding several lower voltage diodes in series won't necessarily accomplish what is needed to make the diodes do what they need to do. This would only need to be done if the secondary coil wasn't in resonance with the primary by either coil weight matching, or by wavelength (1/4 wavelength / wirelengths) Also, I have found that merely copying somebody else's coil lengths and diameter of magnet wire doesn't ever match and fire the secondary coil until it is tuned. The car coil is already manufactured to run at a specific switching frequency so if this frequency isn't met, the output will be of no use without resonance.