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Soundproof Sleeping Closure Answered

Hello fellow instructables :)

Right I need some help and advice on a design brief to help fix my problem.

Problem - I live in a ground floor flat and there is 1 flat above me, 2 scum bags occupy it, a couple of 22 year olds and they have obviously never been taught consideration for others and they bang and thrash around all through the early hours of the morning.

When they bang on their bare wooden floor it sounds like a heavy metal dumbbell coming through my ceiling and it wakes me abruptly and its ruining my life :( I've complained to the council the past 18 months but there not interested.

They have not put any carpet down in their flat in the last 18 months and it looks like they have no intention of doing so (they can afford fags n booze tho), plus they have a baby due any day now, great.. so now there making their problems, my problem.

Solution - The only thing I can think of is making a soundproof sleeping closure, a large box like a 4 poster bed but all sides solid made out of a layer of MDF then insulation then more mdf, but I have some questions before I start.

How would I get adequate air in and out ?
Would this even stop the banging on my ceiling waking me up ? or would it still penetrate the box ?
How would I control the temperature, would it be too hot in there ?

Something like the image below but more solid with a door.

If anyone has any experience with this or input or any good ideas I'd be ever so grateful.

Cheers in advance.

Matt

Discussions

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kurth83

23 days ago

I was asked, what was the total time and investment, it was roughly this:
$4,000 total USD:
- $1300 for the floor (Those squares are $45 ea, and I bought over 30).
- $2700 for the box
- about 9 days of labor (I am slow and careful), the last two days were moving it upstairs and assembling it.

And could a cheaper version be built?

You could save cost by using cheaper (lower grade BCX) plywood (maybe $400 saved), and skip the floor if you don't have downstairs neighbors, brings it in below $2500.

I would not skimp on the sound proofing materials themselves. Same for the latches and hinges, stick with the good stuff.

Also, now that winter has arrived I can comment there. Since I have sleep apnea, and fresh air pumped into my nose, I tried leaving the fan off and my heater off too. And yes, it is toasty warm when 50 degrees inside the room, so it will save me some heating bills. Even with the fan on low, it still gets pretty chill inside if it's 50 in the room. That fan really does well given how quiet it is. We'll have to see if my air conditioning bill goes up next summer, that's the next test.

And, would I do it again, now that I know all this?

I think the answer is yes, I am sleeping better overall. One thing you learn from sleep apnea is you can have what are called partial arousals, where your REM sleep is interrupted (brought from stage 4 to stage 3 or 2), but you don't fully wake up. Such events will leave you feeling very tired even though you technically slept through the night. Since I am experiencing an increase in sleep quality, even if it doesn't stop all noise, I am going to say it was well worth it.

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kurth83

7 weeks ago

Here is the sleep report:
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It's only moderately effective at the low frequency thumps and bumps, it does help, enough to be worth it, but does not stop all low frequency noise. I was hoping for better, but it is the hardest problem acoustically to solve.
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Moving up a bit in the frequency spectrum, dogs, garbage trucks, road noise, voices, it stops cold, frankly better than expected there, even with the ventilation ports.
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The ventilation is also quite effective, I was worried that fan wouldn't move enough air, but it hits the sweet spot for a barely felt breeze, and keeps the inside temp about the same as the outside temp when on high. I haven't experimented with turning it down to see if it gets warmer inside yet. We haven't hit the depths of winter yet, but I do anticipate it will save me some heating bills this winter.
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LeoK49kurth83

Reply 24 days ago

@kurth83 -- Thank you for posting all these. It is amazing to see the work you've done!

Question for you: What was the total investment in terms of money, time, and effort so far? Would you do it again, knowing what you know now? What would the simplest, easiest, cheapest "minimal viable version" of this look like?

Thank you in advance! :)

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FuglyHippokurth83

Reply 6 weeks ago

Say a bear was snoring at an unbelievable volume right beside the box-bed you created, would you hear it?

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kurth83FuglyHippo

Reply 6 weeks ago

It depends on the frequency of the snoring, the lower the frequency the more likely for it to get through. Snoring doesn't go below 100 hz, so likely it would block most of it:
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https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/12071989
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From the article, different snoring types have different frequency ranges, the lower it goes, the more difficult to block.
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If a (hollow) bedroom door can stop it, that's a pretty good sign, as the box-bed is more effective than that.

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kurth83

7 weeks ago

And here it is, complete, in the bedroom, tonight is the first night. Going to bed early...
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kurth83

7 weeks ago

Here it is in the living room disassembled, thanks to the neighbor's sons for helping me carry it upstairs. I got my garage back too, that's it all cleaned up.
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Hoping to install it in the bedroom tomorrow.

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kurth83

8 weeks ago

Here it is mostly finished, needs a velcro strap to hold the door closed from the inside, and the fan mounted. But it's ready to begin moving it upstairs tomorrow.
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My garage is near a busy road, my first test was to get inside and shut the door, the amount it reduced the sound was dramatic, loud road noise reduced to whisper quiet, better than hoped for.
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Thumps and bumps from the neighbor is a different kind of noise however, but it sure is promising at the moment.
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Ok, at the risk of counting chickens too soon, this thing is AWESOME!!!!
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I am quite proud to have finished it without any major rework or injuries (although at least one cut and/or bruise is required to properly christen any home improvement project IMHO and I got at least one of each, the bandaid is still on my finger).

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kurth83

8 weeks ago

And then there were two...
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Two panels left to cover on the inside, probably be done tomorrow, and move upstairs over the next day or so.
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kurth83

2 months ago

Lost another day, the Amazon glue shipment was a day late. So yesterday was a thumb-twiddling video-game kind of day. Fortunately the glue arrived this morning (Sat). I am now about two days behind my original planned schedule, so this will go into next weekend unfortunately. Some neighbors came by my garage and dubbed it a sleeping pod. I am calling it 'the coffin' to my family. So far it has been quite enjoyable to build, I just hope it actually works.

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Appended are some progress pics for today, only four panels are left to be covered, and it will be ready to move.

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Moving it upstairs will be a whole day I think. I ordered some single person appliance carry straps. While no panel weighs more than 70ish lbs, and all but one panel should be in the 50-60 lbs range, they are large and bulky and the straps should help reduce chance of injury and accident.

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Pics include the foam sizing notes so the panels will line up right, various shots of panels being covered,the first two fully covered panels standing up. Guess which one is entitled 'patchwork'.

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kurth83

2 months ago

Day 3, falling behind, worse, one spray can of foam cement barely covers a 4x4 area, so I need to emergency order 20 more cans. Won't arrive until Fri. Was hoping to be done on Friday, but it's going to push through the weekend for sure.

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But what's there looks good, the blue closed-cell foam is easy to work with, cutting it is like cutting a steak with a knife.

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The door is looking good, it closes perfectly with no effort and no squeaks, glad I got high quality heavy duty gate hinges, and a decent door closing spring.

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The ventilation fan and the hole for the CPAP hose intake are there, so all wood cutting is done, the top bar above the door is so I can grab it, it is reinforced to support my weight.

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kurth83

2 months ago

End of day 2, roof is on, door is framed and hung, but I didn't have time to put it on for the pic.

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A few more shots of the construction too. The hard part was matching the door hinges, I put the side panel and the door on adjacent tables and that made it easy, The reinforcement for the door hinges is 1x3.5" maple board.

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The assembled pic is after it gets dark, I go until dusk, garage isn't well lit at night.

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Tomorrow will be finishing a few framing bits and hopefully most of the day will be gluing foam to the outside.

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kurth83

2 months ago

Here is the first day, the sides are up, the door and roof are next. Proud of my tools, the right tools for a job makes the job much easier. That little Rockwell circular saw is new for this job. It's a small light-duty circular saw, it's holding up so far and delivering great cuts. The low-power adjustable-torque electric screwdriver with the socket driver is fantastic for driving the bolts to hold the latches. That Craftsman electric drill is about 30 years old and still going. I have a newer one but I keep using the old one to see how long it will go.

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The bed frame was a disappointment, it has raised rails unlike the pic on Amazon, so I had to fill the sunken area with MDF board (required a quick trip to home depot). Every smaller HW store near me is now out of business, so it's Home Depot or HD supply, both large warehouse-style stores, I miss smaller neighborhood joints.

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Tomorrow I hope to hang the door and start gluing the outer foam layer on. Once the outer foam layer is there the outside will be complete. I'll pad the inside last.

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kurth83

2 months ago

Tested the glue yesterday. Turns out the 3m 74 foam spray is basically contact cement in a spray can. It comes out a little runnier than the canned stuff, so it soaks into foam a bit, meaning it works as advertised. It didn't melt any of my foams and adhered to everything well, so I ordered a bunch more cans. Tomorrow I find out if I can get next week off to work on this since everything should have arrived by then.

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Edit: it's on... I should have finished pics of it in a week.

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Will be posting the steps as they proceed, so next monday the framing will begin.

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kurth83

2 months ago

The wood is delayed, seems what you could buy in a lumber yard 10 years ago is now special order stuff, 10 days or more to arrive. But I put down the base pad in the bedroom, it's like walking on a firm sponge, I like it, downstairs neighbors won't hear me as much and vice versa.

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The good news is the reciprocating saw (with a wood blade) cut this stuff like butter, but getting it to cut in a straight line was a bit more of a challenge. Just marking a straight line was hard. I didn't have any chalk, so I tried masking tape, it didn't stick at all, neither did packing tape. Scoring with a blade was invisible. I finally clamped it under a sacrificial board (basically made a jig) and that got the job done, but I only had one 6" clamp, now I need another one, an excuse to buy new tools is always a good one.

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My other cleverness was to support the floppy rubber with two tables, with the cut going between them. Us DIY's can make do with almost anything ya know.

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Once cut it was fine, and the smell is very light, so happy. You can see me laying it down over Cimexa powder (an ever-lasting bug-killer that kills anything). The final pic is part of the bedroom, with the old bed frame still there.

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kurth83

2 months ago

Hi Matt? Are you the original poster? Yes, I think I have a design that will attenuate some sound, not sure how much yet.

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Hope you don't mind me turning this into a build thread for my as yet unproven home-brew design. The main build hasn't started yet, but most materials have arrived. I still have to test the various glues for which works best. Will be buying some sample wood tomorrow to facilitate the test. The main build won't start likely for a few weeks, have to schedule the time off once I have all the materials and POC on the glues.

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But the first step will occur this weekend. The rubber padding for the base (775 lbs) arrived two days ago. I got my aerobic exercise carrying half of it up the stairs (one 25 lb square at a time and piled them up in the living room. That's 16 trips and I was ready for a rest), the rest (15 more trips) goes up tonight, with install over the weekend, tomorrow or Sunday I hope. I will seal the sides from dirt intrusion and permanently protect the underside from insects since the tiles are not solid, they have gaps underneath where things with six or more legs could make a home. I am going to dust the entire under-surface with Cimexa, a high-tech (and more effective) version of Diatomaceous earth that can kill anything from dust mites to bed bugs and never wears out (its just a silicate powder), and lay the tiles on top of that. Once sealed it should remain dirt and insect-free.

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One reason for piling it up into the living room was to test the car-tire smell to see if the tiles need to be aged in the garage for a few weeks first. Fortunately the smell isn't too bad, so I am going to proceed with the install. Will attach pics when done.

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Below see some of the rubber tiles (that's about half of them), and one of the foam tiles for fun. The rubber is a bit spongy, I like this, it should dampen vibrations better if it has a bit of give.

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Also, some of these tiles will need to be cut to fit flush against the wall, the manufacturer recommends a band saw, which I don't have. I do however have a reciprocating saw, which so far has never met anything it couldn't cut, so I am going to start with that. Tim Taylor on Tool Time once said you could saw a refrigerator in half with one (of those bad boys), and he didn't exaggerate. :-)

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MattH340

2 months ago

Is this thread still alive? Wondering if a new solution has arisen.

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kurth83

2 months ago

Here is the first round of big stuff: the foam tiles and the memory foam.

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Love how the UPS guys carried it upstairs for me. I managed to open the door and push the stuff through with only minimal rearrangement of the boxes.

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You can see the neighbor's door facing mine (which is behind the boxes), that they slam from time to time, part of the reason I need to do this little project.

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kurth83

2 months ago

The materials start trickling in today.

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My neighbors continue to try to be quiet, and mostly succeed, but fail often enough I am not regretting going through with this yet. The roof has been mostly quiet too, but I have had two sleepless nights from the roof in the past month or so, and it is expected to get worse as winter approaches. I just hope when this is done it attenuates the noise enough to have been worth it.

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I also found a speed controller for the fan, 0-800 RPM, with a switch to set the minimum RPM to 300, luxury and safety in one go.

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https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NA-FC1-4-pin-PWM-Controller/dp/B072M2HKSN

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Self-closing gate hinges were all badly rated on Amazon, so a separate door closer looks like a solution:

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https://www.amazon.com/Gate-Shut-Closer-Closing-Adjustable/dp/B06X91KLDB

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kurth83

3 months ago

Here's the parts list.
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I have decided to abandon bolts and braces to join the 4'x4' panels, in favor of latches, this will make the whole thing much much easier to assemble and disassemble on the fly, The mattress will be a tight fit on the sides, so changing sheets may require the side panels to come off:
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Rated at near 1000lbs ea, these should do the trick:
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https://www.protex.com/60-655M1MSZN-YP-adjustable-...
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The variety of catch plate forms means they can be used for both straight and right-angle joins.
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The door (a 4x'4' panel) will need some heavy duty adjustable hinges, spring-loaded gate hinges seem to be the best for this application:
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https://www.amazon.com/Vinyl-Fence-Hinges-Black-Fe...
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They accept 1/4" bolts (I will not use wood screws, but drill holes, and use bolts, washers, and nylon lock nuts, also for disassembly purposes.
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Here is the cooling/ventilation fan, it can be switched to have a high and low speed (I am thinking high in summer and low or off in winter), it'll need a 12v power supply and some wiring (I'm decent with a soldering iron so easy peasy). Note: I have sleep apnea, and so I have a machine that delivers pressurized, heated, humidified air to my face. The intake for that machine wll be outside of this chamber. Under no circumstances would I ever enter a chamber like this without ventilation otherwise. Both the the ventilator and the CPAP machine will be on a UPS too.
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https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-A20-PWM-premium-q...
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Here is the 1500lb rated bed frame:
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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CVR21VN
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To mention it again, here is the base padding, nice and heavy for vibration damping:
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https://www.audimute.com/peacemaker-soundproofing-...
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And the foam again, which is the outer and inner layer of each panel:
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https://www.amazon.com/Incstores-perfect-lightweig...
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And for the 'air' layer, any genuine 5 lb/cuft 2" thick memory foam will do, lots to choose from on amazon, avoid the gel-infused stuff, pure visco-elastic polyurethane foam only.
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Here is one, it is easy to cut, cheaper to buy a large size and cut it down:
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https://www.amazon.com/Memory-Foam-Solutions-X-Lar...
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And nice hardwood (maple) 3/4" ply from Home Depot, in 4'x8' sheets, don't have a link. I won't be cutting the base, but the side and top panels will be 4'x4'. Edit: bought ABX ply from a local lumber yard, at $80ish per sheet + delivery fee, ouch, but beautiful stuff.
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Some various tools (Rockwell small circular saw from amazon, with plywood specific high toothcount blades), and nuts and bolts from boltdepot.
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To glue the various layers I will be using contact cement, from the local OSH (Orchard Supply) or Home Depot. It comes in pints, I expect to use more than one.
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Edit: rethinking perhaps to use spray foam adhesive: https://www.amazon.com/3M-74-Spray-Adhesive-Clear/dp/B000WSH5EO
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Edit: the above foam cement was perfect but very pricey, took 25+ cans at $25 per can. It is contact cement in a spray can, tailored for use with foam, it saved me unbelievable amounts of time and effort.
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Spray paint for finish (to match the blue of the outer foam), will likely come from OSH.

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kurth83

3 months ago

The foam pad came in, looks like a winner, it's closed cell and has both reflective and dampening properties, here it is:

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https://www.amazon.com/Incstores-perfect-lightweig...

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I am planning on painting the non-blue exposed bits so it looks better.

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The side-wall and top-layers will be:

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- foam pad (outside) outer air-tight reflective and dampening layer

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- 3/4" ply - the mass layer.

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- memory foam (2-3" 5 lbs/cuft) - this is the viscous/air layer, is porous, absorbs low-frequency sounds when sandwiched better than anything I have found so far.

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- foam pad (inside) inner air-tight reflective and dampening layer, doubles as the inner 'mass' layer, but isn't very massive unfortunately.

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I would prefer a mass-air-mass design with MDF board, but that would add too much weight, enough it could crush me in an earthquake. This will keep the whole thing to 500 lbs, not more than about 100 of which could fall on me. And it will be very softly padded so I think that will be fine in an emergency.

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I will need to test the smoke alarm that I can hear it inside this thing, that's going to be interesting.

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Now for the base:

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I found some excellent 2.5" thick rubber tiles for the vibration damping base:

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https://www.audimute.com/peacemaker-soundproofing-...

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I think I'll go big on this and cover the whole bedroom floor with it, it vibrates like a drum head, so it makes sense to dampen the whole head, not just a small part of it. That ups the overall price to near $3,000 USD though.

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It's also heavy, so I investigated what appt floors are rated for, and I won't be above 25% max load including everything in the room (rated at 40 lbs per sq ft)

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kurth83

3 months ago

Well, I need to resurrect this thread, because it is the only one in the entire world I can find on this subject, I have downstairs neighbors that thump, although they are trying harder lately after 2 years of not trying. But we got a new roof last year, and during the colder 9 months of the year it 'pops' super loud, up to twice a night. This is bordering on partially disabling me, affecting work, career, health, etc.
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So I haven't been able to get a good nights sleep reliably in 3 years, partly due to neighbors, and partly due to the new construction, I've tried everything else, sound proof windows (great for dogs), added sound-insulation in the floors (1/4" rubber isn't enough), noise makers, noise cancelling headphones, ear plugs, various drugs... All made things better, but never got all the way to good, and its the low frequency thumps that are the issue, I can stop everything else. Our building shakes, I can feel vibrations now as much as hear them because I have dampened sound a lot so far.
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So, as a last ditch effort before moving, I am planning to build a sound insulated and vibration dampened sleep cocoon/pod that can hold a standard twin mattress.
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After spending a long time researching materials, and leveraging some past experience, I believe heavy walls + gap is what is needed.
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My best experience is as a drummer, I built a drum riser for the downstairs neighbors, and the only thing that worked was memory foam (thick 3" or more) sandwiched between two 3/4" MDF boards. The pedals impact the floor, thump, thump, thump, three iterations of risers and this one stopped the noise cold where nothing else did.
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Unfortunately, at 100 lbs per 4x8 3/4" MDF board, to replicate that design in a 4x8x4' coffin-like rectangle would weigh 1000 lbs, so I need to lighten the load. I am worried about it crushing me, the floor is fine. Therefore I am going to try 3/4" ply with dense closed-cell foam on the outside (reflects and absorbs), and memory foam backed by the dense (floor-type) foam for the inner layer. That gets it down to around 600 lbs + 100 lbs for an impact noise base (thick recycled-car-tire rubber pads). A plus is the it will be fully padded, no pointy things, and the whole thing will be a nice royal blue color - inside and out. Edit: switched to larger base pad at closer to 400 lbs, I am damping that floor if humanly possible, had to check my floor weight ratings too.
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I was worried about bed frames strong enough to hold it, but bed frames rated at 2,000+ lbs are easy to find on Amazon.
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It will have an 8" (computer) ventilation fan and exhaust port (which will significantly reduce it's noise insulating properties unless I duct those ports extremely well, but it will be cool and well ventilated. I am planning to put the intake near my air conditioning duct so summers will be bearable inside this thing.
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As an added bonus I will install bed-bug traps under all the legs, filled with Cimexa, and that plague will never return.
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It will likely be a few months before I can get this thing built, if at all, maybe thanksgiving week. It should be a pretty blue padded rectangle with a door on one side (picked out adjustable door hinges already).
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It will be modular and bolted together, in units none of which weigh more than about 50 lbs: 10 pieces of roughly 4x4' ea. So in theory I can dissassemble it and have it packed so it could move with me. And I don't lift things over 50 lbs at my age anyway, so modular construction is a must. It's just bolts and brackets, and getting a snug fit. Edit: switched to latches instead of bolts and brackets.
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I priced it out, and all the materials will cost $2,000 USD, ouch, ouchy, ouch, ouchy ouch ouch. But I am desperate. It would cost me much much more to move. Edit: larger base pad brought te price up to $3,000, not enough ouches for that. Edit again: materials were a bit more than anticipated glue and ABX ply were surprisingly, pricey. Total cost was close to $4,000 USD.
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I'll post the materials if I order them, it will become a build thread at that point, and should make for a fascinating project.
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I've done a lot of DIY carpentry (pretty basic but functional stuff) over the years, I know this is a doable project as I've worked with all these materials before, but whether it will actually dampen the sound is another story. It's a $2,000 + one week of vacation-time gamble.
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I have a sample of the dense foam rubber on order to test it, that's step one now that the design is completed.

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BruceL38

2 years ago

Hello, Matt.

I feel your pain, man, I have the same problem with my neighbours. You could start by contacting your landlord about adding soundproofing. Also, call environmental health and see if you can get rid of the scum bags (they're probably bothering other tenants, too).

As for building an enclosure; I built one out of MDF, lined the inside with cardboard, added lights, a fan and speakers (to play white noise) and I wear ear plugs. The enclosure blocks out about 80% of the noise, however, there is very little I can do about the crashing sounds, they vibrate through the legs of the enclosure and wake me up, it's like someone kicking the underside of my bed! You may not have to worry about that 20% though as your neighbours are above, mine are below.

The fan deals with the heat (an ordinary desk fan), but you could put a wall fan at one end of the pod to draw air in and another at the opposite end to withdraw air, although if you build a large enclosure like the one pictured above, it shouldn't be necessary.

I'm planning on building a new enclosure, something special that looks futuristic with all the bells and whistles. I'll be looking on the internet for designs and appropriate materials.

Just remember you're not alone, good luck and sleep well.

Bruce.

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Sean.2BruceL38

Reply 2 years ago

Hello Bruce and Matt,

Yep - same here as far as the upstairs neighbors from hell go. Matt, you are on the right track with your thinking. I did the same thing. Cheap 4 poster bed frame. MDF, fan and speakers. I used acoustic paneling on the inside and out side. I have become a sound wave expert, lol. Blocking or effectively stopping a sound wave is almost impossible especially if it's bass/deep Db wave. Reflecting the sound wave is very doable. The sound now travels through the ceiling and bounces off the sleeping pod into the wall into a baffle pointed out the door and into the living room where the plush carpet absorbs most of it. I created my own white noise track that has the opposite Db value of the Db values the scumbags upstairs produce (you can rent a meter to find the values). I also ran some crashing waves in the background because I love the beach. Works pretty well.

But I still couldn't get rid of the crashes. So, I raised the sleep pod off the ground. with two rubber pucks under each post/foot. I think the crashing sound waves are vibrating the ceiling to the walls and then vibrating the floor to the sleep pod. The rubber really seems to deaden the crashing vibrating sounds.

Or you could take Ambien, lol.

I would post pictures but this experience has made me realize that there are no cheap, off the shelf sleep pods for regular working people so I'm patenting it.

Best of luck,

Sean

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seanbell157

3 years ago

get some earplugs. Problem solved although the pic you posted is pretty badass

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lgoomsseanbell157

Reply 2 years ago

If it were me, I'd find earplugs to be insufficient. The bumping would drive me nuts. it's not the sound so much as you can feel it. Kinda like someone kicking the chair while you're sitting in it.

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JonM74lgooms

Reply 2 years ago

Earplugs combined with a hammock could minimize feeling the bumps. If you were really smart you could put the hammock hooks on sprung tracks. =)

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hello1976

2 years ago

Matt - this is my dream come true too. I have "audiophonia" - very high sensitivity to noise. I have lived at so many places and always difficulty sleeping and I have been thinking of launching a business where I actually MAKE those items from scratch - on a smaller scale - much like a bigger "coffin" kind of thing out of plastic and with holes for air and a pump.

Anyway - reach out to me directly: foto312 AT gmail

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machete555

3 years ago

Hi Matt,

Have you had any luck resolving this yet?

I have been suffering with a similar problem, I live in a semi detached house and my neighbours child keeps waking me up in the middle of the night and they have just had another one and it is now intolerable.

I have tried the white noise trick with the fan which has a 50/50 success rate and even had custom ear plugs made but they’re still uncomfortable to sleep with.

I’ve got a friend that’s an engineer so hopefully we can knock something up to solve this.

I’m going with a top and bottom outer shell of brushed stainless steel fitted with soundproof insulation and then lined with linen.

Will use telescopic poles on each corner to raise the top from the bottom, so it should look like a four poster bed when open and PC style fans at the head and foot to create enough air flow to support up to three adults run through tubes inside the soundproof insulation lined with that conical foam used as packaging for IT equipment,

to disrupt any sound.

Will have a circuit breaker so that it will pop open in case of a power cut and sensors to stop it from closing if there is an obstruction.

The end result should look something like Deacon Frost’s coffin from the film Blade

I haven't factored in for temperature or humidity yet as I’m hopping this can just be controlled by the airflow or externally by the room conditions.

Not sure how much all this is going cost, but like you say making the outer shell from MDF would be a much cheaper DIY solution.

Can you really put a price on a decent nights uninterrupted sleep?

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thematthatter

4 years ago

Had a similar issue the first apartment i moved into. I was the "scumb bag" and the floor creaked every time we walked on it. My wife would walk across the floor in the middle of the night and I would have to get up at 5am to go to work. The lady below us used to get mad and bang on the ceiling and yell obscenities. She even had the nerve to come upstairs and ask us not to walk on our floor.

Long story short, we bought a mossberg for protection (it got heated a bit) and ended up moving out.

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liquidhandwash

4 years ago

Have you thought of "white noise". I made an air filter with a large computer fan inside that I thought would probably keep me up at night, as is it makes quite a bit of "fan noise" to my surprise I sleep much better for some reason, and don’t wake up to every little sound. I also found I have become aware of falling asleep, as the sound seems to change pitch and becomes quieter as I start to nod off,

Long story short try a noisy computer fan in your bedroom...

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Toga_Dan

4 years ago

You might research what the Japanese are doing. They seem to big on stuff like a motel "room" that's just 1 bunk of a bunkbed with a private entrance, a tv, radio, bookshelf, etc.

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Downunder35m

4 years ago

I would not opt for some enlosed space as the problems with air supply and moisture outway the benefits.

Instead I would opt for a design like this:

http://www.soundegg.com/

Since your problem comes from above and is most likely reflected and transfered through your walls you want something that is able to cancel the noise out.
If you designe some "hood" like the chair over your existing bed you will have it much easier.
Include a lifting device so you can adjust the height over your bed for optimum noise cancellation and you are good to go.
If there is still too much leftover noise you try to include some speakers based on those airplane headphones that cancel out the noise, but would need to use a small amplifier and experiment with the right placement of the speakers.

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mpilchfamily

4 years ago

Any insulated enclose you make will have to be well ventilated. Not only for air but also for temp control. It will heat up rather quickly in there. Quiet running PC fans would be good. You'll probably want a set to draw air in at one end of the bed and a set to vent the air out at the other end.