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Toyota corolla DIY Cold Air Intake Answered

So i have this idea, my car came stock with cold air intake, but i want to take it a little farther and do a Ram air intake (the air gets shoved in the car as you drive) what kind of tubing should i use? i have this plastic kind of dryer tubing and some pipe rings (adjustable) would that work? or should i use metal dryer tubing?



6 years ago

Years ago I cooled my fuel in my VW. In the rear luggage compartment I put an ice chest with 2 coils of copper tubing that I'd ice down. It's an old school trick but it did work. I eventually got tired of feeding it ice for a small gain.

actually been using different air filter. however don't know what to do. since last week i am suffering from the malfunctioning of air filter. been asking some help from a toyota repair man mechanic but they keep on telling me that i need to change the air filter. but the air filter i have just bought brand new, and right after i changed the old one, i got troubled.

If you need to pass it close to the radiator then the metal is best. I have used plastic before but not close to hot parts. You won't notice any difference though. You are better of buying a K & N air filter for it to increase the flow.

It doesn't matter how much air you "push" into the engine if it won't flow through your filter. Change the filter, plumb it to take cold air. Trust me though you will notice more preformance / HP return if you give your car one hellava service. Nothiong beats new Plugs, leads, injectors- new/cleaned, new fuel filter. That should all cost you under $100 total. There is no point pumping more air until your system can use it. If it can't use the available air then it may screw with your air sensors and reduce HP. That's just my experience with the 3 cars I have owned that were 4 cyclinder engine. My V8 5L is fully worked, roars like a tiger and my V6 blown engine runs a stocka supercharged booster with a after market intercooler. The 6 is my everyday driver and the 8 sits in the shed for weekends.

Well i figured i'd keep the regular stuff, take out the stock filter, right above the carb so nothing is in there, and put on a new filter, but use the stock cold air and add an attachment of the dryer hose (not near the radiator) to the extra port for lights near the bottom of the bumper although the problem of being sure not to drive through water as to not get Any water into the carb and possibly ruin the car. I think that covers everything.

That sounds good. But heed my warning a fuel filter that is partially blocked by dirt/sediment can dramatically impact on the preformance of a vehicle. Corroded tips on your plugs can produce an inadequate spark for complete combustion and dodgy leads can hamper this also. I had a for 1.6l which I plumbed the air intake to the front grill. Never had any probs with water. You shouldn't have any issues unless you removed the filter completley. If you do drive throw deep water then the air filter should save your carb, hopefully. There are some after market ram systems which can offer a small increase in HP. They are 24v electrical motor which drive a high speed impeller unit which attachs similar to a turbo/supercharger. I looked into them for a while yet the HP didn't seem worth it. If you can at the end of you induct tubing, try to attach a bottle with the bottom cut off. I used a juice 2L container. It should obtain more volume of air and attempt to 'funnel' it into the induct tube.

Well actually you do not want to use a 'funnel' type thing, it will cause a noticeable whistle.and i dont think the fuel filter is clogged, and there are new plugs.

Hmmm, never noticed a "whistle" as such but it definatley will "whistle" if a sharp edge catches the wind correctly.

That great about your filter and new plugs are always tops. Just making sure you are getting optimum combustion.

Sounds like a nice ride you have there and you certainly know how to maintain it. Good job.

The only reason I know my way around an engine is a very dedicated father-in-law. My father never bothered to show/teach me anything and basically left me to learn all my life lessons myself.
Learning how to maintain your vehicle is a very valuable one. I can't imagine how much I would have spent in the past having my cars repaired if I had taken them to a shop.

I have owned 5 vehicle now and have never taken any of them to the repairer.
I also have my own graph drawn up to equate whether or not insuring the vehicle is a valid option.

Well you dont get 304,000 miles on it without fixing it. I'm just not sure How my air filter gets so dirty, so fast.

That's some nice mileage. Possibly carbon from your brake pads. Plumbing the air intake to the front grill would solve that. Atleast you know you air filter is catching it all.

what year is your corolla, and what country? you might just be better off going for a 20valve black top or a 4agze engine cheap as anything in aus as n upgrade, cold or rammed air intakes in standard 4afe or 7afe corollas dont really do too much maybe if your lucky add 10 or less hp, but if your running a 4afe engine you'll just be making alot of noise

It's an 89 body, 86 chassis, 13B engine. I got it covered, the engine was just running a little hot. Dropped the heavy metal fan, added an electric fan and some more modifications. ;-)

east west engine based on the 4a block. came not sure if it came as a north south configuration or not full name 4age silver top n black top were a 20 valve design red top was a 16 valve

K&N; are high flow filters, washable and reusable, just be sure to follow the directions, if you over oil them you WILL mess up you MAF sensor. Use the metal pipe, it's just safer, I modded the air intake on my F150, the air intake was all 3" tubing, EXCEPT the very front opening where it's 1.5", I modded that to 3" like the rest, got rid of the annoying "whine" the stock intake made.