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Voltage Regulator Answered

EDIT: Anyone Interested please check below posts, this is one is obsolete

Hello!

I need a voltage smoother and regulator on my circuit(attached below)it is a modified shunt charge controller circuit.It converts the Tri phase alternating current to DC and feeds it into the circuit.

The regulator will have to be attachable to the BATTERIES wire in the circuit.It should not consume more than 1v power on its own.My Vout to the battery currently is fluctuating.I will need the to be a stable 12v to charge the batteries. A potentiometer will have to adjust current.I will calibrate current according to my battery bank needs.

Led 1 indicates 'charging' Led 2 indicates 'Dump'

And Please forgive my circuit diagram design(it looks like crap)but works like gold.Also do NOT suggest huge changes to my controller for the regulator to work. Small suggestions to make it more effective,useful like change the zener diode power rating will be welcome.

P.S- Its for my hydro project.Check it out at https://www.instructables.com/community/Help-Hydro-power/

Kabir

Discussions

A potentioneter is NOT something that will adjust the current going to your batteries! It will fry in a second.
What you need is something like this:
http://www.fieldlines.com/story/2007/9/3/18347/60207
The kit is cheap. I won't say you have to buy it. But Glen (the builder/seller) is a wonderful man.
Weatherproof boxes - Tupperware bowls - those have the rubber grommet already in place. But avoid exposure to direct sun, it will suffer from long-term exposure to UV.

What potentiometer????Did I mention about a potentiometer anywhere????But thanks on the tip about the tupperware bowls!!

Yes, you did, in the second paragraph:

The regulator will have to be attachable to the BATTERIES wire in the circuit.It should not consume more than 1v power on its own.My Vout to the battery currently is fluctuating.I will need the to be a stable 12v to charge the batteries. A potentiometer will have to adjust current.I will calibrate current according to my battery bank needs.

:-)

Helooooo! Did you read the post from top to bottom?? There is an 'EDIT' in bold, And also , I said that a potentiometer wil have to adjust the CURRENT not VOLTAGE. I.E: current for different sized batteries are different(I might want to change my batteries!!)700 aH or 500 aH wihich is Amp-Hours

Sorry, was just replying to your statement where your wrote:

Did I mention about a potentiometer anywhere????

And the simple answer was yes. I meant no offense.

Hello all I had known that a rectifier would be needed.And I dont think that the shunt would be needed much, Always there will be loads on my six battery battery bank,I have just kept it for max safety.Also I dont want to get any stuff online.Still nothing is there in the 'samples 'part of their website :P :P And I will further mod the controller to make the external dummy loads option avalible.I will also incude a brake in the design of the controller.A SP3T switch will short ther neutral and hot leads together, braking the turbine, while I shut off the valve an open the divert valve.But could you tell me how to make a semi weather-water proof box for the controller? Please dont post if you want me to BUY it. I prefer no welding involved, I will use superglue to seal the ends of the box. Thanks for your quick response! Kabir

Silicon sealant is probably preferable over superglue--its both waterproof and flexible. If you can't find something with an O-ring seal (old ammo box?), maybe a box-within-a-box would be sufficiently water-resistant? If not, I'm sure someone here will have a good idea...

Probably the charge controller should be as close to the batteries as possible, and that the wiring into the hostel (where I assume your batteries are) should be the AC feed from the alternator. There's a lot more current loss with DC wiring vs. AC, even in just 25 meters. It's simpler, too. Less complexity in the plant is good; less likely to fail. Wouldn't a small shed or at least a large wooden enclosure over the alternator / turbine, etc. be best? That way there's less danger of accidental shocks, kids mucking about, etc. The box in your link is just the rectifier for the alternator (and a meter), rather than a charge controller. You might want as much of the hydro physical plant to be welded steel as possible; that's gonna take the most abuse. I'm also pretty sure you'd want your alternator a bit farther from the actual water flow (unlike that link), for safety and durability...

Should I post about the cover box in the Craft Forum.Would that help?

I checked my own facts--there shouldn't be a difference AC vs DC :p. It's more of a hi vs. low voltage thing... So rectifying it on the turbine is OK.

Ok . But still I want a sort of box for the charge controller unit.I will put the alternator a bit away from the water and protect it with a fibreglass shroud.Could you suggest the grade of steel to use for the box for the controller.It should be easy enough to cut with Heavy-Duty Scissors, But should not bend under little stress... SOME people in the hostel just like to fall over things:P

I have found a better design of the charge controller on homepower magazine site(No need for the regulator) But where will I input the rectified DC current into the homepower's controller? Some simple markings would be helpful.Also I would like a small mod for indicators.I would like: 1.GREEN 'charge Led 2.YELLOW 'power' Led 3.RED 'dump' Led For options 2 and 3 I will simply change Led colour on the existing circuit.But where will the Green Led fit in the current circuit?The magazine says that the thick lines on the schematic will have to be 16 gauge wire or more.I thing a resistor and diode will be needed to regulate the voltage to a safe 3.4v for the green LED.But no idea how to incorporate into current circuit or using what value of diode or resistor.

Charge Controller.bmp

a lot of these seem unesessarily complicatedish. Why don't you just go to maxim-dallas, ask for free samples for a lead acid (I'm assuming you're using) battery charging chip (minimal external components) and if you a really striving for efficiency, a buck, buck-boost, or boost regulator (depending on your desired output).

Is Maxim-Dallas anywhere near where the guy lives? L

I meant the website :P Samples are free and have free shipping

Lacking any documentation, I'd say that the input voltages (11-16V DC) are attacted to the (+) and (-) symbols on the drawing.

This circuit does incorporate a voltage regulator (LM723.)

This looks like a "shunt" regulator-- once the charge is complete, the regulator senses either the rise in voltage or the drop in current flow across the battery, and tells the 555 to pulse the large FET transistor. That FET acts as a switch, which closes the path and lets current flow across the shunt resistor (hence the heavy gauge wire running through the shunt and the FET.)

The shunt, a very high wattage (1 ohm, 250 watts to 3 ohm, 80 watts) resistor would need a hefty heatsink. All the unwanted current (once the battery is charged) is dumped here as heat (Maybe there's a way to utilize this waste heat to heat water?)

If your voltage source is an alternator, you still need the rectifier--the upper part of your first drawing in the OP (similar schematic here, which also has a link for building one from three bridges, rather than 6 individual diodes.)

Also, the "shunt" places a load on the alternator, which would act like a governor and dampens the rotation speed. This is very beneficial for wind turbines, but for hydro power, I'm not quite sure...