582Views13Replies

Author Options:

auto paint help Answered

i am not in to paint jobs but really love to do good work and i know if some one gide me good i do very good job from my heart. need little info i want to paint my car rear quarter pannel there is little rust which need to be fix.and i have sanded the quarter pannel the silver body is show now i like to know after fixing the rust what step do i need to take?put filler or first spray with the epoxy primer to wont get rust then filler?and after spraying final paint do i need to sand the paint before clear coate or after final paint do i spray the clear coate straight away?

Discussions

Just use a reputable firm that doesn't SPAM.

For all your auto body needs check out Premier Auto Body in Harrisonburg, Virginia. We know getting into an accident can be very stressful. You can be assured that our expert technicians have the tools and knowledge to get the job done right the first time! We accept insurance claims and make sure each customer we provide automotive body repair services to is taken care of. From minor dings to major collision damage, we can do it all. We have over 50 years of combined knowledge with auto body repairs and painting experience in the Rockingham County. Check us out @ http://premierautobodyva.com

Well alot of the info you were given is great, But do not go out and hammer anything not matter what anyone tells you!!!! Body work is fairly easy but in order to remove dents from the body of a car you need some tools to do it the right way. You can easy purchase a hammer and dolly set for body work from your local auto parts store running from $12 to $400 dollars depending on how much you think you will use the tools later will decide how much you want to spend cheap tools are exactly that cheap. When lloking at your dent you need you need to decide if you have to pull the dent or flatten the dent Some dents can be done either way depending on the site of the dent. After you have tackled the dent make sure the area is ready for body filler which means make sure you have roughed the surface surrounding the dent with at least four inches of surface roughed around the dent. mix you body filler accoriding to the directions placed on the label and use a bondo squeegee to apply the body filler in a smooth and soft stroke, bring the filler to about three inches from the dent in a nice smooth pattern no worries if it is a little messy sanding and refilling will take care of any defects from the first layer of filler, now using a soft sanding block or orbital sander and 400 grit auto bodt paper sand until body filler and metal fell smooth to the touch, if there are any divits or pock marks use a little body filler to fix those areas and sand smooth, after that depending on what kind of paint you are going to use follow the paints instruction if buy ready to spray auto paint make sure you have some extra just incase spraying looks thin, mix primer with reducer and spray the area affected and allow to dry, sand with mor 400 to make smooth and use a degreaser to clean area about to be painted. after cleaned get ready to spray, When spraying your body paint take your time move in continuos motion make sure any areas you dont want sprayed are masked. if doing the quarter panel you want to paint the whole panel not just the area you fixed or you will have color discrepencies. spray light even coats across whole panel and allow to flash a few minutes between coats. after you have sprayed your paint you may have extra steps depending on wether or not you are using single stage or dual stage paints. if using dual stage you will need to clear coat with clear and hardener, if single stage you won't need clear. let paint sit at least a wekk before buffing or trying to remove drips or you will ruin the surface of the paint usually dimming or fogging the paint only use 100 grit wet paper to clean drips and runs, after a week you may wash and wax and buff as you wish.

Excellent dent advice. Also: never use bondo thicker than 1/16 inch, it will go nasty on you over time. It isn't meant for that kind of thing.

Tips on clears with hardeners: wear a very, very good mask, and shoot it an a booth. You can build a cheap booth using PVC pipe and plastic sheeting, and take it apart just as easily, saving all of the materials for use in other projects. The clears with hardeners also have chemicals that you can't smell but really don't want to breathe or touch, so make sure you wear googles and cover your whole body (I've used Hefty bags and duct tape once or twice instead of a full-body suit, but I wouldn't do it again). If you can even slightly smell "paint" through your carbon-filtered gasmask--oops, I mean respirator, get upwind of the car for several minutes. The precautions aren't nearly as stringent when working with one-part clears or regular basecoats.

. The exact procedure varies depending on the type of paint you use, but in general:
  • Remove ALL rust. Sanding usually works, but may require grit blasting or even removal of badly rusted spots.
  • Sand the bare metal with coarse paper. Apply a coat of primer to the bare metal. Lightly sand with coarse paper. You want a surface that the filler can "grab."
  • Apply filler (AKA Bondo). Try to hammer the panel shape close to the original so that as little Bondo as possible is used - it tends to crack if it is put on thick. Apply in many thin layers, instead of one thick one. Sand between layers.
  • A coat of primer over the filler and sand with fine paper.
  • Shoot the paint.
. Googling "automotive painting" should fill in the details. Make sure the primer/filler/paint drys thoroughly between coats.

thx guys thx for help i did all the thing it went good but got did little mess when i was painting ny gun setting is not good so thick paint came out and runny.trying to fix that.

You should always follow the directions on the paint, and add solvents to thin it before spraying, about 100mL of solvent per liter of paint, but read the directions.. And always test spray something (( my trash can is full of pretty colors )) spraying takes lots of practice, and less paint is better then to much, you can always go and re-coat the area again, and with lacquer paint you don't even need to sand between coats, but to get a run out you need to sand and spot putty it and spray it again.....

i am using black car pain which i bought from carquest and i did good mising too the mixing ratio was 2part paint and one part reducer.have problem with gun setting well my brother use to work in bmw paint department he use to paint the cars so he is arriving tomorrow in canada so he will fix my problem:D

The guys below have given you great answers for the painting, for removing dents here are a few little tips I've found from my mishaps. *For hood dents from sitting on it you can pop the hood and remove the sound insulation material then pop it out if you do it before it's been there for any real amount of time. *For larger dents that require a puller you can use a camera/gps mount for windscreens, they're cheap but have a very powerful suction pad, look for ones that have a little lever to lock the sucker pads, they can also be used for when you pull the hnadle off the fridge door (oopsy) *On minor very small dents you can sometimes use a very powerful suction pad around it to straighten it, if that doesn't work sometime you'll just have to beat it out. *When you do a respray on one part of the car check that anywhere else doesn't have bubbling or rusting anywhere, it's much easier to do it all together before letting minor things get worse *If any rust is vey bad check the inner of the panelling and repair as necessary, really you should check this at least every 6 months, redo rust proofing a year before it's out of guarantee, or before. *For extra protection on work vehicles take the old engine oil and paint the chassis with it, my dad did this for years with the old pickup truck which had no rustproofing, we still see it now putting up housing sale signs, it's still rust free from that. If you have any friends that work in auto repair shops then get them to have a look or if you're friendly most places wont minding having a look at your work for free, as long as you are nice to them.

Hey I like that engine oil trick! I'll have to try that. Colorado winter salts are so brutal on the underside of my poor car...

It's pretty good, we tend to get an awful lot of unnecessary saltings during winter, also the truck worked in yards around the harbour including the fertiliser ones which literally ate through the valve cores of the shovels...

I know the "just read the directions and go out and do it" approach to my first paint job left me with an embarrassing mess, so here's the tips I wish someone had given me: You do need to be very thorough with your rust removal. Then use a high-build automotive primer and block to blend with the rest of the panel (I'm assuming you don't have a dent there, too, that you'll have to contend with). You don't want to use a terribly aggressive paper for your blocking, and you want to use an X pattern, not a + pattern or just one direction. Your hand can feel imperfections you can't see, so use that a lot. You can wet down the section and look at reflections to see if they bend in any spots. If you don't have a real dent going on, you should only need one, maybe two coats of high-build primer if you find a high spot and wind up sanding through. That happened to me once, it was a pain. Once you've got your panel completely flat (it'll be rough from your sandpaper, don't worry), spray your first coat of color. Spray light, and overlap half on each pass. You want to err on the side of light rather than heavy; drips are a pain. Drips happen. Always inspect for drips once the coat is dry before spraying the next one. Let your paint rest for the amount of time it says on the can before you mess with it. (If your can doesn't say, wait a day or two). Remove a drip with a razorblade, not sandpaper, since the razor will get you just down to the surface, not give you a hole in your paint. Basically, you're shaving your car. Go top to bottom, the direction the drip ran. Once the surface matches, sand lightly with very fine paper and shoot your next coat. You will need more than one color coat. Let your color coats cure once you've sprayed them all. This could take some time. You don't have to wait the full cure time, but however long you can wait will be good, since it will take less time for it all to cure if seven coats don't have to do it all at once. That's good, since a bird will probably leave a present on your freshly painted spot at just the wrong time if you leave it long enough. You want to do what's called "wetsanding." You'll need fine-grit wetsanding paper for this. The paper should have directions. Just sand by hand until your paint is perfectly straight and blended with the surrounding color. Like I said, I royally screwed up my first paintjob by combining a lot of little mistakes into once mess of a patch. One of those mistakes was assuming my paint was still perfectly contoured after I put on several coats. In fact, it will be a little thicker in some areas than others, and if you're like me, that'll drive you insane once it's all shiny and reflecting things like a funhouse mirror. This is especially bad if it's a dark color. So wetsand until you can't find where your paint patch begins and your old paint ends. This will also require a sanding block, but you can focus on areas in a non-X pattern to flatten them, though. Just beware sanding too deep. Once you've got your color just right, spray your clear, eliminating any runs if they show up. You'll probably want a couple of coats. Now don't wax for at least 90 days, and don't go putting a car over one it. Feel free to get it wet, though. Oh, and you'll want to clean your panel with fast-evaporating solvent to get dirt and finger grease, etc. off it before starting your work each day, and then wipe it again after you've sanded and before you spray paint, to get all the dust off. Happy painting!