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can a drive belt from a printer be shortened? Answered

I am trying to find a small belt capable of turning gears in my home built rc car, but all of the belts i can use are too long, does anyone know if there is a way that i can make the belt shorter so it wont be too long? i need it to still be in a loop. i only have one right now, so if someone could tell me a way of getting this to work that would be great. 

so can someone help? and if it is possible, when explaining how to reconnect it, pictures could help a lot in explaining this



Best Answer 7 years ago

You might try a bicycle puncture-repair kit for a cut and splice, follow the instructions for gluing a patch.


would that work? this belt would be going at a relatively high speed, the glue and patch will really work?

i said to steveastrouk that maybe sewing it together could work?

If you can sew it do that, it was my best advice upon splicing rubber.


well i found it was far to thin to sew it together, i'll try the bike tire repair kit, but if i can find a couple more gears, i think i'll use those instead.

thanks for the info though!
*best answer

No, the toothed printer belts are loaded with steel or kevlar wires around their circumference, cutting the belt will destroy the strength completely.

if there are steel wires, couldn't i pull them out of the belt and then feed them into the other section to rejoin it? they make replica carriage tires that way.

i think my belt could have thread in it instead though, could i maybe use a small sewing needle and sew the belt together?

Tyres are re-vulcanised and stuff. You can buy 1 and 2mm MTD belts in all sorts of lengths, from on-line sources.

but i dont have paypal, or visa or anything i can use to order online

Depending on the material you may manage by cutting the belt and using super glue - If rubber it works well although a lot of belts are plastic. Possibly to buy a set of gears from a model supplier in general they aren't that expensive.

Drive belts generally can't be cut and spliced very well. They tend to break at the splice point, as continual flexing pulls apart the adhesive you used.

What you might be able to do would be to put a third ("idler") pulley in the loop, pulling it into a triangle. Or two pulleys, deflecting both sides of the loop. That would "waste" some of the length of the loop, maintaining tension even though the motor and the thing being driven are closer together.

Alternatively, you could spend a couple of bucks. Radio Shack used to sell a kit of 25 or so assorted small drive belts for a few bucks...

the belt needs the teeth though, unless you can tell me a good way for a non-toothed one.

and this might be a little big for a idler pulley, since this loop is about 2 feet and i need it to be around 2 inches. (this is in circumference)

i could't find any gears to drive the drivetrain so i figured a belt would work, the drivetrain case was already in one piece but the car wasn't configured for rc use, so it was just empty. finding the right gears would be torture, (on me and my wallet) and it seems like belts are too.

i have a pulley from a cassette player that get screwed on (from the side) onto a shaft, and the shaft of my motor just so happens to be notched, maybe a different belt will work, any ideas?

if you want me to upload some pictures i can, just let me know