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quick release tripod plates Answered

so for a few years now i've been using a small speaker setup strapped onto the tail of a longboard skateboard to provide music at skate meets and fun bike rides etc, and it's worked well enough, however at 13kg on the highest point of the board it has a tendancy to flop into corners and mess with the handling. Recently the amplifier broke so i want to use this opportunity to redesign the whole setup...

for a start im hoping to reduce the weight by about 5kg
i found this video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QAI5W6AgSYg) on youtube of a skateboard sidecar for a child which i intend to modify for the speakers but i don't want it permanently attached to my board, would 1 or 2 quick release tripod plates have the strength to keep the mechanism attached to the board until i wished to remove it? i know you can get plates to support some particularly heavy cameras so would there be one that would be up to my task?


2 carriage bolts with wingnuts might b better than camera plates.

Carriage bolts do look solid but they're not quick release and I'd be worried about dropping and losing small fastenings outside in the dark. Some kind of quick release fastening is important so that I can quickly assemble and disassemble the board and 'sidecar' parts when travelling to and from events via potentially crowded trains without causing a blockage mid carriage...

I hear ya. If the bolt slides out of a slot in the board, you need never remove nut from bolt, nor bolt from speakers. Wingnuts make it quick realease. If you worry about losing nuts from bolt, mash the bolt threads with vicegrips at the very end.

could you attach a doodle to illustrate the slot mechanism better?

I'll try to get around to it. Meanwhile, look at the way you remove a wheel from a bike. Loosen the nut, then slide the axle out of the slot in the fork. No risk of losing the nut in the field because you never take it entirely off the axle.

You don't want your rig spinning on the bolts. So I'm thinking 2 holes drilled in the board, then slots cut to the edge to allow the speaker rig to be removed quick without losing nuts and bolts. It may be a good idea to re-enforce the board at that point with steel or aluminum plate.

Down here a lot of folks misuse airhose connector for this porpose.
The lock good enough and can turn if required, like on a bike trailer.
Two bolts fixed in your board or the sidecar mount that go into holes just to keep the entire thing in place.
The airhose connector then just locks it in place.

Love how much fun the little one has getting going :)
But IMHO for the solo purpose of noise making I would save the weight on the actual board or sidecar and use a backpack for the heavy things like amp and batteries.
This way you only need to mount a speaker with some easy off plugs in case you have an accident.
And if going for something to mount on the board I, personally, would prefer something in the back instead of sideways.
Like a trailer if you like, and for that you can use quite simple mounts like a combo of air hose connector and ring screw....

the first setup i had was a backpack and i hated it so the following year i stripped it down and bolted it to the board. i considered a conventional trailer but none of my boards are setup in a way that would allow for a truck mounted hitch. i might be wrong but i figure a side mounted setup like this would let me reduce the length of the board and allow for tighter turns without the worry of jack-knifing a trailer, also if i mount it on the heelside instead of the toeside like the guy in the video then i can kick off the opposite side without accidentally hitting it.

Then I would say go for the design you prefer most and just try to keep the weight down.