Why "Vortex" for Vortex math and devices?

If you are new to the topic then it might give you a slightly quicker understanding than watching hours of youtube videos.I assume you have seen these various coils that make a sphere shaped magnet spin at insane speeds.They are a good start.You see by normal understanding these Rodin or Vortex coils should not be able to produce a field that rotates that fast.As with a lot of things we tried to use math to explain it in theory and than adjusted the math to match it.Vortex math was born.So how do you explain blue and red to a blind person that never saw anything?I mean in a way they actually know how it would look if they could see?Doesn't work, but we can use a Dyson vacuum cleaner ;)A lot of "tornados" add up to one giant super tornado.Spinning so fast that "all" the dirst stays behind and only clean air comes out.As in nature all the weather cells add up to one that is more powerful than the combined single ones.The tornados that form the term vortex are around the coils.But also around the entire donut as well as every single strand of wire.In any good vortex the rotational speed increases towards the center and bottom of the vortex.You can try that with some floating stuff when you drain your bathtub or sink.Try to imagine and endless tornado that runs around every wire like a spiral.The coil itself adds another spin vector to it and increases the moving speed or the single tornado.Combined it adds up to a very strong tornadoe moving very fast around in the coil pack.As this also creates a rotating field like another tornado in the donut shape it all gets twisted up.Physics as we know it won't fully explain these effects.Vortex devices that produce electricity are usually coils in a special winding configuration and pattern.Like we try to eliminate certain things with basket coils in the HF area a Rodin or Vortex coil tries to utlise these otherwise unwanted stray effects and interferences.Overunity is another term people like to use here but I leave it up to you if such a things is phsically possible with an electrical system.Vortex math tries to explain all these things demonstrated in experiments.However I found two slight flaws in the common approch.1. Only two dimension used.Unlike the coils the simplified Vortex math only operates in two dimensions.A circle instead of a sphere if you like.2. Again, unlike the coil harmony and resonance are neglected.It seems in some cases people try to draw a circle just with straight lines.While in reality you have a never ending, resonant "stream" in three or to be precise four dimensions.Is it the chicken and egg problem?Yes and no.You can only calculate something if you can fully understand it or exactly replicate it in reality.Vortex coils are just way to interpret theories and get some sort of results.And those results are the real problem.We can measure magnatic fields in strenght and direction even frequency.However we can neither make them visible in real time not measure mixed or entangled fields properly.We "see" Mars is our "red planet" but in reality it just the atmosphere, the surface is not red at all in most places.NASA has enough problems to calculated missions to outer space with enough accuracy.Just imagine they would have to do it while considering that around every path our planets make is another spinning "distraction"....That is exactly what Vortex math tries to do while eliminating common math bit by bit.You can see and hear in 3 dimensions.Maybe you are also good in drawing something in 3D on your compterscreen or 3D headset.But how many here could predict the path of a baseball in 3D like they do when watching a game?Depending on your viewing angle you might be way off....Try to know or calculate where exactly the ball is at any given monet in time and how fast it spins in which direction.....Our brains are not trained to think like this!Even if we construct things like a dome we prefer to have straight features.Sure manufacturing is one thing that needs to be affordable.But try to just calculate the support structure if all is actually fully round like a sphere should be.We avoid what is considered higher dimensions as much we can.To calculate a distance in 3D it still seems easier to use two 2D models to add up instead of true vectors.Again only through technology like computer we are able to simulate, understand and actually calculate what we need.Where we ventured around the globe and into our solar system our math was left behind.Finding workaround and good enough approximations still seems the way to go.Instead actually evolving our math to our needs we just add more and more complex formulas and calculations.To fully understand vortex math you need to let go and start thinking in 4 dimensions instead of just 2.Oh, sorry, you might be new to this...Number 4 is time of course.

Topic by Downunder35m 


Ceiling fan generator mod to the max

I stubled upon several mods to convert a standard ceiling fan into a more or less usefull generator.So if you are looking to go this route then I might have some nice improvements that can be implemented.People like these mods for some weird reason, despite the fact that it requires quite a bit of extra work to make them weather proof.However, when it comes to the fundamentals then to me it looks like some folks out there are missing out.On the available power that is...Always the first step for a mod like this is to replace the induction ring with a lot of magnets.Second step usually is to remove a lot of the coils, especially the inner ring.Now, these two stator designs are common for fans with two speeds.Those with three or even reverse might have a different configuration!Lets start on the magnet part:The recommended way of placing the magnets is by creating an air gap as small as possible - makes sense.But then it is always the same amount of magnets as there is coils - and the spacing is also the same as for the coils.In the general generaotr design world this configuration is prefered as it allows for the best performance.If you dare to go a bit further and cosider how the magnets react to the stator configuration then you might want to consider a different option.You see, these two sets of coils for two different speeds mean just one thing:A different amount of poles is created, with the outer ring having more poles than the inner ring of coils.The core is split around the coils, not just to allow the windings to be made but also to provide independent paths for the magnetic field - resulting in the two pole configurations.Amounts differ by diameter, power level, manufacturer and so on.What is always the same is that the inner ring has less coils and that the outer segments of the poles created have even spacings.In the normal mods you see posted these gaps in the core for the outer ring are closed by inserting lamitaed pieces from some old transformer.And you end up with ONE usable coil configuration and ONE power output.The slightly advanced mod uses the inner coil to add some load depending on the speed to prevent spinning out of control in high winds.If you try a normal DC motor with permanent magnets than you will notice the strong binding forces, it is like the rotor sticks in certain places.The better ones use and uneven configuration to reduce this binding effect ;)In my mod the magnets are selected in size to almost be the same length as two stator poles next to each other.This allows for the best induction while still allowing "to experiment".Bringing the magnets and the coils into play...As said an exact match of the number of magnets to either coil ring is not ideal.The prefered option is to go somewhere in between.For example:Outer ring has 18 coils then the inner ring will have 9 coils - exactly half.360° divided by 15 make a nice 24 degress per magnet.But with 12 magnets you get an even 30°, which is far easier to deal with.16 magnets at 22.5° is another option.So, what does that exactly do for us?The bad thing is we get slightly less performance if you only see the standard mod with one coil ring.The good thing we get far lower binding forces and through that the thing will even spin in very light winds.Adding both coil rings with a suitable rectifier however results in a pulsing output of two sine waves.With just the rectifier we get a ripple that is easier to deal with through a capacitor.The extra power available is in the range of about 40% and make more than up for the "reduced" amount of magnets.Going the extra mile once more ;)Having created a much fancier ceiling fan mod now you might wonder if there is not a way to get even more out of it.And there is.For example by utilising a gear system or belt to get a far higher rotational speed on the generator than what the blades would provide, prefably then with quite big blades too and an automatic break for high wind conditions.With the reduced binding forces the generator will be happy to spin at quite high speeds in low winds.Downside is that you will need to build a far more sturdy bearing housing.In return though you get more stability and durability.You can do the math yourself based on the number of poles per ring and magnets to get the output frequency based on the RPM's.Perfect would now be to use a switch mode power supply configuration to directly transform the provided output into a stable DC per ring.And yes, it is possible to use mechanical systems to provide a fixed output speed from the blades to the generator - but way to complex and lossy!Lets do some lame math with no regards to realities:If the original fan would spin at 100 RPM at full speed than we could say our generator should provide the mains voltage at about 100 RPM.Keep in mind we utilise both coil rings and not just the high speed one!Geared and with the blades spinning at 100 RPM we might get as much as 1000V from this little generator....And even with the lower amount of magnets we migh see frequencies above the 500Hz range.The good thing now is that normal iron core transformers can still operate at these frequencies.A bit lossy in the upper range but acceptable for the purpose.Put simple: A 10 or 20:1 transformer per coil ring would provide us with a far more suitable output voltage and much higher amps.If you made it to here than you certainly wonder about other magnet configurations.Checking the stator configuration you will by now realise why I selected the magnet lenght accordingly.The magnets "activate" one coil after the other.The spacing between them means there is always some overlap where the magnets only cover one half of the stator for a coil.This is ok because we don't really have to worry about the resulting messy output.Ideally though you would want to have a magnet activate both coils, the inner and the outer at the same time.What we did though was to make sure that at no time more than ONE magnet fully covers more than ONE coil!It is the best option to cover both coil sets while minimising binding effects and increasing the avialable output.To go the last step you would need to invest a lot of time re-winding all coils :(You don't want to do this unless you have the means and no friends and family that might miss you for a few days....I found a far simpler way to change the coil configuration, although it is not as good a re-winding.So let's go full scale shall we?Ceiling fan reconfiguration!If you take the usual 18 to 9 configuration than one thing jumps to mind reight away: 3-phase power!Cutting the wire that goes from coil to coil might not always be possible and if it is then you need to know how to handle it.Magnet wire can be hard to solder.Burning the coating off results in corroded copper that is even harder to solder.If you are lucky though than a reall hot soldering irong will be able to melt the coating.The flux from the solder will start to cover the wire from the cut and the solder will follow.If not then using some fine sandpaper and time is the other option to remove the coating...Ok, you seperated all coil and have two wire ends per coil?I hope you did not cut off the ones going out to the actual connections to the outside world ;)Properly solder each wire end and take your time to check it is really proper and not just a few spots.Mark or number the coils on the rings!For the inner ring we have 9 but need only 3, so we start at one connection to the outside world and check if this connection is on the outside or inside of the coil.For this example I assume you picked the one that goes to the outside of the coil.Connect the inside wire to the outside wire of coil number 3, assuming we start with 1 here ;)From the inside wire of 3 you go to outside of 6 and the inside is you first new output connection.Do the same with the remaining 6 coils and where needed add the required output wire.It really helps to have wires with three different colors here, one color per new coil set.Note which color corresponds to to the three coils used!!!The outer ring with 18 coils is sightly different here.You see, we want a "flowing" magnetic field that makes best use of the new coil configuration!We can not simply bridge them in any way we feel like without considering how this might affect the electrical side of things.As we now take the approach of a three phase system it makes sense to use a more suitable magnet configuration as well.So before go to the outer ring of coils lets have a look of the best option for the magnets first:The stator packs are evenly spaced in our example and will alow us to use 18 magnets.This provides the best performance with the downside of a higher binding effect, but we need this configuration to get the best possible output.As said at the start I selected magnets that are just shy of being the same length as the corresponding stator segments.In a "free" setup these magnets would now be quite hard to place in a makeshift ring.Even harder in the original casing.A 3D printer certainly helps but some common sense too ;)Wood is easy to work with and if you select the right stuff than making a suitable ring to hold your magnets and attach to the drive system metal parts is not too hard.Bar or brick type magnets can be quite easy be utilised on a wood setup :)The key is that you add Flux Capacitors - sorry couldn't help the reference to Marty....What I mean is to add some magnetic material between the north pole of one magnet and the south pole of the other.Lets say your magnets are 15mm long and have a spacing of 5mm.Then a little plate of 12mm would be next to perfect.This plate needs to connect the magnets on the backside, the side facing away from the coils.Use a dremel tool or what you have to first create slots for the metal strips or bars, then the same for the magnets.Glue in the metal first and once set add the magnet, making sure the always go north to south with their alignment.Ok, and what does this do for us?I hope you are not one of these persons who starts building while reading...What we created now is a shortcut for the magnetic forces.The field between the magnets is severly compromised in terms of being usable for the coils.We do get a much soother run though...I only did that to have some fun and check if you paid attention - sorry :(What we really want is an effect similar to what you see on a loadspeaker magnet that is still in its metal shielding.A ring magnet with one pole on the inside and one on the outside is used here.The shielding provides a path for the magnetic field that is not going through the speaker coil - hence the little air gap for the coil.If we do the same then our efficiency will be going up quite a bit.Take two identical steel parts, like some butter knifes, and prefarbly a force gauge.If you try to pull your magnet at a 90° angle from the blade you will get a certain reading for the required force to lift it off.Most people now think that this would be the max a magnet can hold.So take the other knife and place the magnet between them.If you pull the knife off with the gauge now the reading will be higher than what you get from just the magnet ;)Taking that to our model and keeping the field lines in mind we now know that we could even use slightly longer plates if our magnets happen to be a bit short :)Just place them right behind each magnet !Back to the outer ring of coils....With 18 magnets we get an even system for both coil rings.However we want to make sure that our output waves are syncronised and not at random order.We need to combine two coils to be back on a 9 coil configuration as on the inner ring.The other option is to provide two sets of outputs for outer ring, resulting in 3 3-phase outputs.Both have their pros and cons....But if you check the 18 magnet configuration ina ction over the coils it becomes clear that combining two coils the usual way is possible but also that our inner ring does not get a proper north south action from the magnets!Only the outer coil ring works properly!For the inner ring we never get only a north south combo, instead a lot of mixes.Did I mention to read first? ;)Of course we can only use 9 magnets in our configuration, but at least I did not traick you on their size....You see, we need to account for the fact that the coils are not just evenly spaced but also that all configurations in terms of coils to stator pack are doubles or halfs.Makes a lot more sense if you know how these asyncronous motors work :)With 9 magnets we actually get both inner and outer ring coils activated properly.Plus we now have the benefit that there are always twoouter coils in sync with each other.Means apart from the same way you wired the inner ring you make this addition to the outer ring:"One" outer coil is created by going from one coilinner connection to the outer connection of the second after this, skipping one coil.The resulting output is again just 3 phases but with double the output voltage.The key is to again take notes of how you connect and wire the coils - and the colors used for the output wires!Let me give you an example for the correct order:I we take the number 1 coil on the inner ring then coils number 1 and 18 would be next to it on the outer ring.You want to combine 1 and 3, 2 and 4, 5 and 7,....And you want the resulting three coil packs and wires colores to correspond to the inner coils in the same order!That is true for the always same way of combining coils from the inner to outer connection - or the other way around but never mixed!Ok, we have done the magnets and the coil configuration now properly, no jokes this time!With two simple 3-phase rectifiers we get two DC outputs that can be combined or used seperately.As we end up with roughly double the output voltage on one output but all coils are the same it makes sense to treat them independly.For those who wonder why:If you add a load than one coil system would take a higher loading of it.Meaning while one coil set is stll fine the other will already start to overheat - if the load is too great.So we use two rectifiers with some filtering.In the basic form just a really big electrolytic capacitor of suitable voltage or a full LC filer system with multiple stages.Either way we can now utilise some better DC-DC converters to get going.Considering the equal max watss the coil rings can handle it make sense to include some current limiting.A good converter will provide this option.Both converters can now set to the desiered output or with some added protection diodes and adjusted properly to the same voltage combined for just one DC output.Compared to the standard mod of removing coils and bridgning stator packs the resulting output power in overall Watt will now be about 40-60% higher - depending on the model and quality of parts.Special words of wisdom:Consider the orignal max speed of the fan when used as intendet - see this as a theoretical max output that equals your mains voltage.Just ignore losses and such things - better to be safe than sorry.It becomes clear that it quite possible that your output will be far higher than mains voltage and that you need use transformers for the two 3-phase systems so you can use standard DC-DC converters, which have a max input voltage of around 50V only.This means your converter must be able to handle the higher amps!The fan might have only used 100W or less than 500mA but at high speeds and a ratios of lets say 10 to 1 for the gearing high wind speeds might get it up to over 5 amps on the transformer outputs.Please do the math first for your gear system in relation to the max wind speeds you want to use with your blades!If in doubt use a converter that has some reserves to offer, especially if you aim to charge batteries as quickly as possible.The most vital part however is to ensure that all previously cut wires are isulated properly!!!Magnet wire of the standard kind is good for about 1000V max, so don't drive it higher!Heat shrink with a hot glue liner is prefered but hard to apply in these thight spaces.Since nothing moves consider using long enough wires for your connections so you have enough space to solder without affecting the heat shrink tubes.Liquid insulation or rubber is the last option and should only be used to finalside the heat shrink security measures.Best option once all is confirmed to be working fine would be to make a custom mold and to fully enclose the staotr pack and wires with casting resin or an insulating casting mix.Make sure to keep the output wirese free at the their ends ;)What if I don't want to build a complicated three phase rectifier and just use a single phase system as it was?Firstly chances are your coils are already connected in a three phase configuration, just all in series.But working out a suitable magnet configuration to suit this is much harder if you want to use both sets of coils.In a series configuration like the original you also have to accept the losses from these connected coils.The higher the overall resistance the lower the possible output ;)Main problem however is to get the magnet working properly.The standard 9 or here even 18 magnet configurations still works, especially with the added shielding from behind.But the coils also produce a magnetic field, which grows with the load.Means that an top of all you also have the coils working against the magnets and create even higher losses.Explains why the simple folks prefer not use the inner coil set if they go with a single phase system.So either accept the losses and just use the outer coils or do it fully and get far mor output.And by the way: a 3-phase rectifier modlue is only a few cents more than a standard bridge rectifier ;)Ok, and why do I bother to write all this?People like to tinker but most don't really invent.Following some simple instructions is easy, trying to work it yourself much harder.The reward however is that you actually start to know what you are doing :)And what works for a ceiling fan can be used for these ring style washing machine motors too ;)Anyways...We need to get back our roots.Start thinking for ourself again, work things out instead of just looking them up.If people would be aware that a simple ceiling fan could provide about 3 times the output power of its rated installation value instead of only just about half......Super strong magnets allow real output even without re.winding all coils.And what works here works for other things too.We only learned to use magnets in a striaght way because we can not bend them.But we can bed the magnetic field lines to our advantage!The simple shielding used in this mod is nothing more than a shortcut to enhance the field strenght where it is is needed.By a simple coil modification we basically bet two electrical generators for the price and size of one.Apart from stating how easy it would be to place multiple stators and magnet rings into one generator the magnets itself also allow for even more output.If you ever played with hook magnets or speaker magnets then you know how much stronger they are compared to just the magnet once they seperate after hours of fun for you.Imagine you would replace the single bar magnet with two block magnets that are joined by a magnetic shunt like out simple shielding before.If the magnet blocks now would have a slightly smaller footprint than your individual poles:Imagine you create a hlaf ring shaped magnetic connection between the two blocks that also goes aruond the outer perimeter up to the outside of the magnets surface?I mean the surface facing the stator poles?Damn your imagination is good, yout it right away!Of course we would then have a magnet that allpies its full strength focussed onto each pole of a coil!And of course the resulting field would be far stronger than just using the magnet blocks itself and still significantly higher than just adding a shielding or connection between them.The affect of the next coil coming is also drastically reduced, which in return also increases the efficiency.In terms of numbers:If a fixed neodymium magnet would provide us 100$ field strength as the base point with no shielding (just the magnet blocks alone);A fully shielded and connected system, like in a hook magnet combined with a U-style magnet, would reach above 400% here.....Adding witchcraft to the mix ;)Although I know better I just assume some of you have now a working double-three-phase-ceiling-fan-generator.And that would mean you also have some fans to spare from your long experiments.Modern ignition coils seem to have nothing in common with our ceiling fan or resulting generator.So why do I try to use them anyway?For the ignition only one polarity is prefered so the spark works and travels as intendet.Means the "wasted" energy from the othe half of the pulse seems to be lost.The electronics do a lot here but magnets too ;)The core of the coil has magents at either end, turning it into one long magnet that still has the right properties to act as high voltage transformer system with the coils.The coil appear to be pre-loaded and with the ignition pulse it has to overcome the magnetic field pre-set by the magnets.And when the electrical impulse is off the same magnets also accelerated and increase the resulting fall back impulse - which provides the spark.Unless you have a suitable laser cutter or simlar cutting tech available somehow it will be hard to modify the metal plates of the stator.But if you could...Imagine you could add magnet inside the plates that are inside a coil.The same pre-loading would happen.Does not really help in terms of adding outpur as our rectifier would suffer badly here.It does give ideas though...Shielding works fine for the magnets, same for field shaping.Electromagnets use the same techniques...So why not use some leftlever transformer cores to add more "shortcuts" for the coils?Strips of transformer core sheets added either side of the coils increase their field strenght and result in better output!Three packs either side of the stator pack are usually no problem.Now take your leftovers and do a standard mod.Compare the max output on the same windmill with what you get from my mod(s).The only real magic I used here is that I actually bothered to combine multiple and already used methods to drastically increase the available output of an otherwise utterly useless generator mod ;)Warnings:If you take the above mods serious and to the their extreme than it is imperative to make sure you have safety measures in place!Assume the lowest rating for the magnet wire and if in doubt stick with a max output voltage of 800V.These mods are potentially lethal if you don't follow what is common sense to everyone dealing with high voltages for a living!Most people will start without any gearing or belts and use the wind directly.Even here it is easy to get far higher RPM than what the thing ever did under your ceiling.Without some fixes you will need transformers to reduce the output voltage accordingly.Only other option is to limit the max speed to what your DC-DC converter can handle.Making mistakes with mangets can cost you a lot of time and work, make sure to mark their poles somehow to prevent putting them in wrong.If in doubt then double check!Always keep in mind what the magnet wires and your connections can handle!You don't want any arcs or overheating.Some added electronics to monitor wind speed, rpm's, load and temperature of the coils can turn out vital once you upscale.Before letting your new generator do its thing make sure you tested all to the max!Use a drill or so to speed it up and check the limit regulation for the converters.Measure the actual volts and amps going through your coil sets at assumed max speed and max load.Monitor the coil temp while doing so to ensure nothing is out of limit!You are kidding me here right?A scrap ceiling fan shall provide more output as a wind generator than what was used to spin it as a fan?And of course I need not one but two 3-phse transformers...Pretty clear it is all a fake because nobody could replicate any of it unless limited to what the converters can handle...Didn't I say to think outside normal restraints already?A single phase transformer uses two coils in the most basic configuration.For example one side for 240V and te other for 12V.But some of them are more efficient than other ;)A 3-phase transformer uses 6 coils, two for each phase.And there are plenty of standrad transformer cores out there that would allow us to use this configuration.The worst being the MOT, or microwave oven transformer.Very lossy for a reason but good as an example as these have three core stems ;)Now that you see that you will that a lot more transformers actually allow you to replace the two coils with 6 ;)Ok, but why not use a rectifier first and not use a transformer or two at all?The resulting output voltage will without a gear REDUCTION be much higher than what a cheap DC-DC converter can handle.And at such speeds the effiency would be very bad too.You would need huge capacitors of good quality to deal with the now more impulse like output.And considering the primary side of the transformer does not require anything thicker than the wire on the coils of the fan...Not hard at all to find some suitable tansformers to salvage - or to use some nice ring transformers ;)No kidding around, just facts and possible options you might want to explore.Does that now mean I get free energy?Sure, if you mean you get the free nergy from the energy of the wind at no cost.No if you think a ceiling fan could ever power your house.Internal resistance, size and wire/connection properties set our limits.Not to mention that they are designed to be dirt cheap.If you are in a windy region and assume a realistic 300W minimum output from a 100W fan then adding more stage multiplies this.These fancy upright windmills are not just powerful but also would allow to use one modded fan either end.If big enough and with enough wind force throughout the year you could just add a second or third stage to ech end.With 3 on both ends the resulting output would then be suddenly 1.8kW per windmill....And all from scrap parts with only the costs for the magnets...No wind? Then use water....None of it? Get some greyhounds and build a big hamster wheel :)You get the general idea I hope...

Topic by Downunder35m   |  last reply


Electric bike motor help!

Helli guys.. after a long time racing motocross, I would like to experiment into doing an electric dirt bike for myself.. My plan is to find an 85 or 125cc frame with no engine, and build from that.. the biggest question is, what motor could I use that is no less than 15kw, and on the affordable side? I was looking at the Turnigy Rotomax 150cc eqiv. And it has a max power output at 9000 something watts, would that be any good for a motocross bike? Would it burn out quickly since its pretty small? Notes: i am strictly looking for powerful bikes, a 2kw bike is not for me since I am used to overpowered 250cc two stroke hell-born suicide machines, thanks..

Topic by dsirotic   |  last reply


Ducted vacuum cleaner anyone?

My sister approached me today with the news that her vacuum cleaner went up in smoke.While cleaning out the old rental and with the aim to clean the new home during the next few days.This made me thinking about the the ducted vacuum system that were quite popular around here.Most modern house won't get something like that and for the older ones it means once they fail they stay dead.After all the tenant can buy a vacuum cleaner to clean the carpets...Anyways...I had a look around here and in other places to check on home made solutions of the more modern type.As my sister is allowed some DIY to improve the quite old house I was wondering about installing a ducted vacuum system.Of course there is not much out there, commercially, that would be up to our modern times.Far too noisy, lack of sucktion and despite all totally outdated filter systems that won't keep the turbine or motor clean.Some people however came up with quite clever ideas.For example building your own cyclonic shop vac.Another one I quite liked was was a home made housing for standard drum type shop vac.Apart from the air noise the thing was almost silent.No screaming motor, no outcoming air acting as a funnel for the noise create.The air going in and through the hose was louder then the actual vacuum cleaner LOLI would like to create something similar by salvaging a proper shop vac as a bas for the sucking part.But as it is an old house I would really like a wooden solution to entire housing and casing problem.Not just a screaming thing mounted to the outside of the house....Far less noisy than the donor, cyclonic (proper) seperator and easy to empty.Like place a bag under it and open the bottom easy.Something originally intended for inside use might be weatherproved or placed in a properly covered area if required.Any ideas for the wooden part apart from starting from scratch with 3D models?Anyone here done something similar and willing to provide some feedback on how well it all performs?

Topic by Downunder35m   |  last reply


Instructable edits do not appear in published version

I have made and saved edits in the following instructable: https://www.instructables.com/id/LED-Jigsaw-Puzzle-Light-Acrylic-Laser-Cut/However whenever I vist the publish instructable they are not shown (I have done edits in other intructables and these have shown up, so I am not sure what is different this time).This is what is published: https://prnt.sc/mi1o90 but this is what is in the edit and preview screens: https://prnt.sc/mi1o4s. You will notice that the 3rd and 4th bullets in the preview screen are missing from the published. I also have changes in the last step that are not reflecting.I have cleared my cache, tried different browsers, networks and ISPs on different devices.I have a few quesitons:Can anyone see the changes that I claim not to be able to see?If this is an issue, will unpublishing and republishing fix it?If I unpublish will I loose my "featured" status as well as the viewing stats?Your help is appreciated.

Topic by abasel   |  last reply


Issues with text content not updating to the web view.

I am having an issue when I update text content it is not being updated to the web view but when you create a PDF all of my changes are present. This has happened on my last two Instructables. I have tried ever browser I have and forced refresh on each with no change. Same result from my iPhone X for seeing the changes in content.Please Help I want to make sure my changes get through, Thanks

Topic by twhite101   |  last reply


Stairs redesign

Hi everyone!I have this stairs in my apartment, I got used to them, but now as we have a baby they are pretty much dangerous for little guy. I need ideas and suggestions on a design for new stairs. Space is really small. Photos are attached. Thank You!

Topic by AdvanŽ   |  last reply


The "truth" about climate change - a little story

Global warming, climate change, jelly fish attacks, changed ocean currents...We all know the highlights from the news but what is the real deal behind all of this?It can't be denied that burning fossil fuels with no regrets has an impact on our globe.CO2 and other gasses or elements have been trapped for thausands of years.We release them all into our atmosphere and while doing so keep adding more harmful stuff.So, of course it is easy to say that if we would have nver used our fossile fuels to this extent then our world would be unharmed and a happy place throughout.Even if we would ignore the impossible task of making it where we are right now without having used any fossile fuels: How much would it be different?If we trust the offical climate data that has been collected then it clearly shows a rise in so called climate changing emissions since our industrial revolution started.Be it data from the ice, core drillings or just sample taken from old canyons - the results are all the same.Since the late 1800's there is a steady rise in emissions, CO2 and all the other things we don't really want in our air.And for good reasons all these green advocates try their best to stop us from doing more harm.Since the 80's we started to actually care more, better engines, catalytic converters, cleaning mechanisms for our industiral waste and chimneys.But did it make any change or difference?About 40 years now some countries try hard to do it right, so this must show up somewhere?!Well it does not.You see countries like the US never really cared about climate or the enviroment if there was a cheaper and easier option.Just check how long it took them to even acknowledge that our climate is changing due to our interference...Then there is China and as we have seen with the olympics they literally have to shut down production so you can see for more than a few km...But the same is true for so many other countries.Like everwhere else the industrial revolutions comes sooner or later and as always the cheapest way is done first and for far too long.And with the delay in reactions and consequences it is now certain that the worst is yet to come.Of course there is also another side to the entire story - nature itself.We destroy it where we can to safisfy our need for being cheap.Ever wondered where all this cheap furniture is coming from?Or all the wood used throughout the world?Rainforests are disappearing, flora and fauna is destroyed.In most cases with a lot of fires as it is still the easiest way to clean up when done.Now add the vulcanic eruptions that increased over the past 20 odd years around the world.And if you dare all the bushfires or natural causes.Combined this causes a higher impact than all our burning of fossile fuels - and it adds to the mix.And this brings us back in time.Taking the records of climete conditions all the way back to before the dinosaurs showed us that we had periods of much higher temperatures than what we might see soon.CO2 level at some periods were so high that the earth literally was a green house.So why did we humans amke it anyway onto this earth if chance were so bad?Species adjust, evolve or go extinct, new ones appear...Well, unless you are a croc or so and really don't care about Darvin and evolution ;)Does that mean we are on the way to become a new species?Sadly no, because we are the cause of all our problems.We now use technology and science to adjust nature and the enviroment to our needs.It gets too hot? Well add an airconditioner, will you!?The ground water is too contaminted to drink? Well, why do you think we invented bottled water?!You need room for new homes? Don't mind the flood planes, just drain them and build, there was no flood in over 30 years...See, even if we would go fully green and honur nature around the world from today on.Even if we try to clean up the mess we already created.The effects of what we did over the last 40 or more years are still in progress and far from over.Like a good stew it keep cooking until it is ready to serve.But strenght comes in numbers!Like a virus we keep multiplying even in areas with very limited ressources.After all, we just import what we need..Natural selection is being eliminated so pharma companies can make a living too.From just over 40 years our "natural" life expectency increased now to well into the 80's.You are not fertile? No problem we have means to fertilise your eggs with the sperm from hubby!Already suffering badly from diabetes, asthma or other chronical illness? No problem, have some kids anyway.And just to top it always make sure to avoid natural foods in favour for processed and artificial ingredients.In nature the weak, the sick, the old, the malformed and incapable are a food source.We took this food source away, keet them around, care for them and make sure really everyone has the same chance in life.In life - but not in nature anymore!Social evolution meant that natural selection was no longer a requirement to ensure a strong "tribe" or hunting party.We compensated the drain on ressources and all pharma companies are still very grateful for this.No this is no weird rant on humanity or the idea of some mad person, it is just the naked reality we like to ignore.A horse breeder will not accept a weak and constanlty sick horse for his breeding stock.A broken leg, like for a cow usually just means the animal is put down.Some dog breeders still prefer to cull a few pups just because the color pattern is not nice enough or the ears are too short.Even if you just breed fish you o through all sorts of troubles to ensure you have the best genes available in your tanks.You think this is already going to far with the ideas, I know :(But we have real world examples highlighting the results of the exact opposite: Inbreeding and ignoring the defects in genes and health.The british royal family destroyed the italian and russin monarchies the same was the spanish and protugise, even impacted on the french.In times when there was no clue about genetic defects or deseases that can be dormant in females but very active in males, the british royalty simply kept providing tainted bloodlines to the other royal familes.No offsprings that are male and of good health meant the end of their monarchies.The british survived by allowing the common folk to join the blue blood lines and now it is common in all the monachrchies left in the world.Remove the carries, provide fresh genes to get a better diversity.Really no offence, but just look at Charles and Camilla ;)Jokes aside: the story of the european monarchies shows what happens if things go too wrong.From hunters a gatherers that either kept healthy or died out we eveloved to having a gene pool that is full of nasty surprises.Again no offence meant in any way or to any person!If we compare our world with a big aquarium than it might have eveloved like this:Once there was a bowl full of plants, guppies and lots of other fish and creatures living on each other.Over time the guppies learnt when the feeding times are and made sure they get most of the food.Slowly the other psecies had not enough room and food anymore, only the hunter had a good linving with the huge supply of guppies.Then the guppies managed to reduce the dangers from all predators around and started to really take off.Soon every guppy had only conerns about having a good life and enough food.The waste got more and more, the sick and ill too.The last hunter able to fight them died off as he too suffered from the wasten the changed enviroment and gnetic defects transfered.Now there is little plants left, guppies everywhere, crap everywhere and even those guppies only living a few months still manages to find a partner to ensure their tainted gene pool spreads into the general population.We have no tank owner getting the balance right again, removing the sick and weak, we humans just keep going strong and if the crap pile gets too high we put grass and houses on top of it....We humans don't like to be compared with fish, a virus or any other lower being for that matter.These hings just don't affect or concern us.And anyone who dares to do so anyway has a long list of nasty words thrown at them.Is it because we humans can't tolerate the truth?Or is because deep inside we all know but refuse to think about it?

Topic by Downunder35m   |  last reply


Project VR6

Hello all, thought id share my progress of my 97' VW Golf mk3 VR6 2.8 to create some discussion and VAG banter. I brought her completly standard and wanted to build a real sleeper for road use and track use that is fast, practical for everyday use and safe for the family. When I got her back in 2009 she was a standard vr6 nothing really special just a well looked after example Firstly I gave her a good clean inside and out along with a service.......and by clean i mean really cleaning, shampoo the carpet, treat the leather, clean out the heater units, remove and shampoo the roof lining, polish and resin the paint, de greese and steam clean the engine bay to name some of the bits ive done. The result was a very clean base "template" Once all was clean and I could see areas for imporvement I began the work, replacing all the bushes, front and rear lower arms, brake lines, discs, calipers, exhaust were the easy steps When it came to the engine itself I did not want to mess about with it too much just improve the BHP and general running of the car as 174bhp from a 2.8 VR6 is shocking. So removed the engine and re conditioned the gearbox and clutch. While this was out I thought it best to also do the pull chain not a big job but much easier with everything out, once back in I still was not finished.... After giving the engine a full service with new plugs, leads, coil pack, oil change, rocker cover, inlet manifold, seals, upgraded air filter I decided to get the car chipped to see what BHP could be pulled out of her. Happy to say with all that work she was running on the first dyno 192bhp a massive improvement from standard 174bhp and all that from just replacing and upgrading some standard old parts with more expensive performance parts. Once the Chip was installed and the guys at the tuning store had done their works she was happily chucking out 216.4BHP With that I was more than happy and the work put in over the 6month period really showed. I then decided to have all but bumpers colour coded and did a few minor tweeks to the exterious to make her a clean standard example... I will add a full list of specs and work done soon, enjoy the pics feedback welcome

Topic by Jedi_zombie85   |  last reply


"Open Link in New Tab" Issues

When you add a link within an "Ible, there's an option to have it open in a new tab. I like to add links to some of the tools and materials I use, and always check the box for that as I find it a bit irritating when the link takes you away from the page you're on.I recently was looking at one of my published 'Ibles and clicked on a link, but it doesn't open in a new tab. I went into edit mode, checked the open in new tab box, and went back to the 'Ible... same thing.I logged out and tried it again to the same result. Tried it in a different web browser just to see too.If I go into edit mode and check the box, save, go out of edit mode, and back into edit mode, the box is unchecked.Has anyone else had this issue? It doesn't affect functionality very much but is a bit of an annoyance

Topic by BakkerJo   |  last reply


4 wheeled Quad-Cycle!

Has anybody made or thought about making an Instructable to make a 4 wheeled bike-like a car? I've seen them on the Internet for $3-4000. Thought it would be interesting because of higher gas prices.

Topic by potofgold   |  last reply


The save button in deactivated in Acura 15.04.6

I am trying to export a G-Code from Acura I noticed when I loaded the file, starts processing and at some point it stops. I can see the support material did not finish processing and the top portion is not complete.Then I make changes to the settings I increased the height of the layer and reduced the density.In other words is a lighter density overall. If i decrease this a lot, Then the software manages to finish the set up proces and the save button comback active to export Gcode.Seems like the large data of the higer density settings runs out of Disk space to create the cash.Does anyone know how can I fix this problem?I remember when I work in Adobe after effects editing videos, the software ask me to reserve a dedicated folder with an specific disk space just for cash, when this folder is full, the software ask you to empty the temporary cash files to make more disk space for more projects.Does anyone know how i fix the space disk or what ever i need to do to allow the software to finish procesing with higher density?Please helpYou can email me to gamelicruz@gmail.comThanks

Topic by gameli97 


Your instructable failed to publish!

Oops! We couldn´t understand your request….Someone has an idea why it is not possible to publish my instructable and why i get this messages?Thanks for your help.

Topic by Prototyp 81   |  last reply


What is your glue preference for 3D prints

I'm curious to find out what glue people prefer to use with 3D prints, why, and how you use it to get the best results. Here is what I've tried and how it has gone for me. E6000 - good glue, kind of messy and takes time to dry. I usually squeeze some out on some wax paper and use a toothpick to apply it. Weld-On 4 Acrylic Adhesive - very liquid, have to transfer to a bottle to use, which for me requires a dropper, dries super duper fast so make sure it's in the right place when you push pieces together, can leave a white residue if it dries on your piece. SCIGRIP 16 10315 Acrylic Cement - pretty liquid, dries fast as soon as it touches plastic, I had to buy an applicator bottle to use with it and it doesn't work so I'm not sure if I need a different bottle or it doesn't work well with a bottle. not really usable for me right now unless I can figure out what to use with it. So when I have used it, I squeeze some out and use a toothpick to apply it but it dries as soon as I pour it out. I've also tried misc super glues but they tend to leave white residue for me. Currently, I would say the Weld-On is my go-to for gluing 3D prints, but I'd love to get other people's opinions!

Topic by Penolopy Bulnick   |  last reply


Motorcycle regulator wire burning

I have a xj600 pre div, been stood for few months, I started her up other day and after ten mins ticking over I noticed the wires coming from/to the regulator/rectifier started to burn....What could be the causes??? And what can I do To fix please... Thanks....

Topic by AlanW131   |  last reply


Does anyone have a Protocycler+ and is it worth the money?

I'm thinking about getting into low volume filament manufacturing and was wondering if it was a good machine. Is it worth $999?

Topic by CorbettY   |  last reply


Vending machine

I am looking for someone who wants to do a mini vending machine project.

Topic by Simon-does   |  last reply


Please Help for AutoLevel TronxyX5S

Hi, I apologize for the corrupt English first.I have a Tronxy X5S 3d printer. And I bought a sensor( SN04-N NPN) to add autolevel property to the printer. I thought I would be able to get rid of the small curves on the hotbed. I've arranged my commands according to autolevel as follows. But when I want to print a large shape, the extruder remains in the air at some points of the hotbed, print properly at some points, and at some points worth the hotbed(no filament output). So the autolevel property is not working properly. Can you help me? What am I doing wrong?My Marlin Configrution.h Changes//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -40 // X offset: -left +right [of the nozzle]#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 20 // Y offset: -front +behind [the nozzle]#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0.5 // Z offset: -below +above [the nozzle]//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////#define X_MIN_POS 0#define Y_MIN_POS 0#define Z_MIN_POS 0.6#define X_MAX_POS X_BED_SIZE#define Y_MAX_POS Y_BED_SIZE#define Z_MAX_POS 410//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////#define GRID_MAX_POINTS_X 7 #define GRID_MAX_POINTS_Y GRID_MAX_POINTS_X//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////Set the boundaries for probing (where the probe can reach). #define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (20)#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (280) #define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (40)#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION (320)************************************************** ***************************************My Repetier Host/CuraEngine Gcode Changes////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// G21G90M82M107G92 Z0G1 Z5G28G29G28 X0 Y0G28 Z0G1 Z15.0 F9000G92 E0G1 F200 E3G92 E0G1 F9000{IF_BED}M190 S{BED}{IF_EXT0}M109 T0 S{TEMP0}Please watch my problem

Topic by BurakD22 


Make a CNC with Camera

Hi my friends.I want to make my own CNC Router,but i want to add an Camera for point positions and cutting through black lines using mach3.\I will send an youtube link from one CNC that has this function.If anyone has an idea how can make something like this please write to me.

Topic by elami123   |  last reply


Hybrid electric vehicals, batteries going serial or parallel

Can I wire 7000 lithium ion battery cells (about 75kwh) in parallel, and then use a lightweight bike engine hooked to a DC generator and connected in series to the batteries to boost voltage? Are there any flows in this design concept, for use in a hybrid race vehicle to increase the longevity of the batteries?I am trying to develop a race track car which is hybrid, thus utilizing electric motors immense torque.We build original race cars with common petrol engines but now I’m seriously thinking of developing a next generation race car. I know batteries don’t last long in high drain situations and thus any race car I sell will need a battery replacement after a race season. I’m sure this will be bad for business. Thus this is why I’m thinking of ideas to prolong the battery life by reducing current drainage. That’s why I want to have an engine generator with its sole purpose is just to boost voltage, and about 20,000ah worth of batteries connected in parallel so I reduce current demand per battery cell to well under 1C. Giving a Tesla p100d as an example I would require about 1200 amps and 400 volts to produce 480kw of power. If wire all 7000 battery cells in parallel to produce the same amount of current then each cell will need to provide about 0.18amps that’s very low to sustain longevity of the batteries. The generator is then connected in series to help boost the system voltage to 400vIn extrem simple terms, (the batteries provide the current, and the engine generator provides the voltage)I hope you understand why I’m looking at it this way. I know it might not be the most efficient way, but is it a practical doable way? Thanks

Topic by SamA196   |  last reply


New on 3d printing: asking for advice

Hi everyone, Do you have any suggestions for an amateur to buy her first one printer? Thanks for your advice firstly!

Topic by fernelu2017   |  last reply


Automatic LED light for cordless drill????

As far as I know, DeWalt has not incorporated lights into their cordless drills as some other manufacturers have. Could someone make an LED light which would come on when the magnetic field produced by the drill motor is sensed? Perhaps a sensor taped to the drill body, and a small LED light pointing forward, or a ring of light around the drill chuck? Rufus 123Movies GoMovies

Topic by achanakbhayank   |  last reply


Calling all blind makers!

Hi everyone,Instructables readers may already know about the community of blind woodworkers from pages like ww4b.org. The university I am affiliated with (OCADU), and my research group are interested in bringing the expertise of all blind woodworkers into more and more classrooms. This includes post secondary institutions (colleges, universities), makerspaces, and anywhere else it might be useful. We currently have an open dialogue with some professional blind woodworkers, and have enrolled in woodworking classes at non-profit facilities for the visually impaired. But we are looking to learn from anyone else who has first hand knowledge of teaching woodworking (or other kinds of making) to visually impaired students.If this sounds like you or you are interested, please see the details at this instructables link: https://www.instructables.com/id/Blind-Woodworkin...If you have more questions, feel free to pm me.The instructable provides an option to do the survey via phone, but if you want to jump right into the anonymous online survey, here is a link.https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSdoRLx0lC...BestEric

Topic by 3164382 


Problema installazione marlin su anet a8

Salve a tuttiho provato a installare marlin su anet a8 e ho un problema.dopo aver fatto l upload vedo sul display della anet il logo marlin con la versione ma non ho tutte le voci del menu di marlin, in pratica quello che vedo sono dei punti interrogativi dopo le coordinate x,y e z, credo che ci sia un problema sulla scheda.inoltre ho letto da qualche parte che mentre si esegue l upload, sulla scheda dovrebbero lampeggiare alcuni led, cosa che non avviene.premetto che arduino compila correttamente marlin e non ho errori sia in compilazione che in upload, solo che la scheda sembra sorda.se qualcuno ha qualche idea sarebbe un aiuto.grazie in anticipo

Topic by ssibelius 


Can you help me identify this glassware?

I found this glassware in my lab at work and I'm wondering what it's used for. It is a regular tube with a inlet and a outlet on the side. Any ideas?

Topic by EmelíaE   |  last reply


Member page featured projects

On my profile page, when I try to change which projects are visible at the top and hit save, it never finishes and will still say "saving" after a few hours. Has anyone else had this issue?

Topic by BakkerJo   |  last reply


Problem with enrolling a class

Hi everybody, I'm facing a weird problem about enrolloing the woodworking class: as soon as I take a lesson the screen becomes "greyed" and I can't click the enroll button. Could anyone help me?

Topic by Roncino   |  last reply


Washing machine door won't open - possible solutions!

If you have a front loader and found this then most likely you are currently unable to get your washing out of the machine.Welcome to the club!Here is what happened to me, skip this bit if you like:The washing finnished, I try to open the door but nothing.Ok, maybe some electrical bugger somewhere, so knock it a few times but still no go.Mind you that I am in AU now but a long time ago I took my European machine with me - not knowing there won't be any service down here.A quick search on my model and the problem informed me that either the electrical safety lock is faulty or the handle part is broken.The solution to open the door as suggested by the official support:Take the damn thing apart until you get the front off.Unscrew the lock from the inde and then investigate the actual problem.Well, lets just say I was not in the mood to dismantle the entire thing just to open the door, so here is how I did it:Part two: Options to open the door if the handle won't do the trick:Most front loaders are designed to make thing complicated when it comes to the door mechanism.It is considered a safety thing, so tempering from the outside shall be prevented.A faulty electrical lock is rare but I will try this a bit further down.Almost all front loaders use a hook like pin in the door.And once the power was off for a few minutes the safty lock will disengage - if not look further down this text ;)But since the cover is screwed on from the inside of the door you can't get easy access to this locking pin.In some cases you can be lucky and if you look from the side you can see it - if so then try something flat enough (but sturdy) to press it towards the center of the door.For me the problem was the cover really covered it all :(I used some strong, braided fishing line instead to pull on the hook pin.Take a lenght to go all around the door, push the line in where the handle is and guide it around the door.Take both ends together and pull - the door pops open.Be aware though that fishing line can cut into your fingers, so make a loop and a wooden handle or so instead of your fingers ;)Part three: The door is open - what now??Well, if you managed to open the door during part two already then your handle part is clearly broken somewhere.At the hinge should be two (or four) screws with heads that are different to the rest - if in doubt aim for those closest to the hinge.Remove them while supporting the door!Once the screw are out you should be able to get the door off with a bit of wiggling and different opening angles.If not put the screws back in and remove all others first to take the front cover off while you attempt to get the door off.The handle part isusually fixed with screws that hold the cover, so it should come out once all is seperated.With some luck you find a part number on it somewhere on the back, if not check your prefered supplier for a spare.Part four: To repair or to not repair?You might notice that with just the actual locking pin and its frame that screws into the door all would work fine.If really just the handle part is broken while the stronger part for the screws and actual pin is fine:Consider leaving the handle off until you get a spare.The door can be mounted without the actual handle but you need to take the framework apart.Once done you should only have a basic frame to screw into the door with the hook in it but the actual handle is gone.And without the handle you have easy access to the pin - you can even push it with your finger to open the door...But as said, in my case the frame for the door cover blocked this bit too much.For the first wash I used a popstickle stick as it was thin enough...If no spares are available anymore and repairing the broken plasic is not an option either:Part five: For the desperate - modified locking pin.I have seen people placing a bolt into the front of the machine and then literally screwing the door close.The safety was then just bridged of course...This however is not recommended and a bad idea anyway.Much better is to be creative and to use some spare metal or strong plastic like Delrin.Fibreglass re-inforced plastic like from an old sewer box is great too but a pain in terms of protective gear while cutting, drilling and sanding.Either way you should now see the resulting parts of your accident scene.And this of course only works if at least the frame for the pin itself is still intact.The mechnism in the original is a double lever - you pull the handle away from the door and the pin is "rotated" over its pin to move away from the lock.Take the actual locking pin out, trace its shape and on the drawing add a suitable "extension that you can press down (on the outside of the door).In the most basic form a simple straight lever going away from the machine at a 30° angle will do.Cut a cardboard sample to check if you really have enough free movement.If all is good create a copy in the right thickness and put it all back togehter without the broken handle.To open the machine you then just press the lever towards the machine and the door pops open.

Topic by Downunder35m 


Staying motivated to complete a projects . . thoughts?

We've all been there, and I'm right there currently with a specific project:I was excited at first and started making this thing, and about midway through I've lost complete interest in the project and am struggling with motivation to finish it!For me, the contests here on Instructables were a great motivator with specific deadlines that always kept me motivated . . . but I work here now and cannot participate in them ; )When I lose interest in a project, it's often because the intriguing creative challenges have all been solved, but the project isn't yet completed. However I'm ready to move on to the next thing . . so the half-finished projects keep piling up. I've found that I'm far more interested in the active problem-solving process that "making" provides, than in actually producing completed things. It's an odd dilemma, and maybe I'm not alone in this. Do you experience this same mid-project disinterest? Aside from deadlines, what do you do to stay motivated to complete projects once the interest begins to dissipate?I'd love to hear my fellow Instructables authors' thoughts. Let's have a conversation!

Topic by seamster   |  last reply


Need help selecting a small motor for moving a small rig back and forth left-to-right only about 1 inch.

I have never worked with motors before, and I am starting to realize that there are dozens if not hundreds of different types of motors. Imagine two 6" long, 1/2" dia. aluminum rods suspended between two pieces or trapezoidal shaped plywood that are secured to a base and braced to make this whole structure rigid. on these two aluminum rods "rides" a small carriage that is literally just a small 2" x 2" platform made from... whatever... 1/4" plywood. This carriage can slide left and right on these two aluminum rods. I need a motor that can somehow move this little platform left and right, back and forth, only between 1/8" to 1". I need to be able to control the speed (rate) at which is travels this small distance.I also need to be able to control the starting point and the end (return) point. Basically, I and transferring string from one spool to another. So the platform will have a spool of thread on it, and it will be going left-to-right while another spool is turning. The left-to-right movement will be coordinated with the speed that the second spool is wrapping (turning) so that the thread windes as close to "perfectly" in layers. And each spool will be between 1/8 - 1/4 - up to 1" wide. This is why I need to be able to set the starting point, and the end point where it will stop and reverse direction. I will be controlling this with a project board like an Arduino. I just need to know what kind of motor to look for, and any other suggestionsThanks guys!

Topic by Dolmetscher007   |  last reply


An alternative to expensive grinding stones

For some people buying a decent grinding or honing stone is a lifetime investment.Prices of over $500 for a single stone of a very fine grid are not uncommon.But what about the average Joe who just needs to sharpen a knife or tool every now and then?If slicing and dicing is not your living than investing in a set of diamond plates might be better than getting a set of stones.But there are limitations, firstly their size and then how long they last.The later is really important if not used correctly as even diamond toold can be ruined quickly.In some case these small sharpening tools are hard to handle.The bigger plates can still be a pain if they don't come with a proper mount.Well, and if you forget to clean them after use and put them in a dry place it will be quite hard to remove the rust.A nice alternative I found is sandpaper, specifically sandpaper on a glass plate.Good wet and dry sandpaper is available from almost gravel to a 10.000 grid, above that you might have to make a special order.In general the finer the grid the more you pay due to the ingredients.I use a glass plate from and old scanner as they are both heat proof and really strong, window glass is not recommended here.The glass is covered with strips of kapton tape for the ease of later cleaning.The tape is then evenly covered with a contact glue, preferably the spry king to get an even cover.Same for the sheet of sandpaper.I try to get the glue over the glass edge a bit and to have at least two sides of the sandpaper going over an edge.Just to have an area to work close to the edge without risking to lift the paper off.Once a sheet is too worn I place the plat in the oven for a few minutes so the glue softens and peel the sheet off.If too much glue remians on the tape I replace it before I put a new sheet on.Of course you need a bunch of plates although it works fine with two different sheets halfing a plate.The thing works best under slow running water, so use your tinker skills to come with a suitable frame and water supply ;)But even with just a spray bottle it is a cheap way to replace a costly stone, especially if you do require a bigger surface area.

Topic by Downunder35m   |  last reply


YouTubers who also post on Instructables

Who are your favorite YouTubers who post their project tutorials here on Instructables? For me the list isn't that long, looking to make it longer...Darbin OrvarEvan & KatelynPaul JackmanBrian LoughGlen (DIY Creators)Jen FoxbotJohnny Brooke (Crafted Workshop)Barb Makes Things

Topic by bekathwia   |  last reply


Removing adhesive from vinyl tiles

I am having solid hardwood flooring installed in my first floor of my home. The existing flooring is currently 12x12" vinyl tiles. I am in the process of removing the tiles (using an iron). How do I remove the old adhesive that was used to put the tiles down? Is it necessary to remove even though felt underlayment will be placed under the hardwood? Thanks in advance.

Topic by meemee_0822   |  last reply


Maker/fab lab/AI special call for papers invitation

Hi !My name is Andre Peres and I'm a professor and fab lab manager at Brazil.Me and Fabiana Lorenzi are chairing a special track at flairs (The FLORIDA ARTIFICIAL INTELLIGENCE RESEARCH SOCIETY) about fab labs, makers and AI. about the track: http://www.invenio.com.br/flairs/about flairs: http://www.invenio.com.br/flairs/about We are inviting interesting projects to submit to this track. When we made this special track we wanted to give fab labs and makers the opportunity to get together in this academic environment to talk, exchange experiences and also to get this opportunity to link academic research, the maker movment and personal digital fabrication.We hope you consider submiting your project to this special track, and also to see you at FLAIRS. best regards;André.

Topic by decoP   |  last reply


Ideas and Methods for DIY Truck Topper

So in 5 months starting February I'll be getting my first vehicle. If I do get a truck, I'll be making my own topper out of wood. Now I have a reference picture but I want it out of wood just because it's more secure and looks pretty. Also because I will be making a door on the back that stands tall but can also be walked through. The first two photos is how I want to make the topper but I need methods and advice to do so. The third picture is how I want the door. I'll try to answer any question when you have them but keep in mind I don't currently own a truck, this is for 6 months down the road.

Topic by jlowery5   |  last reply


Re-categorizing Furniture 'ables by function rather than alphabetical?

I'm beginning the process of doing some pretty major remodeling projects in my home, and was looking through the Furniture category, in the hopes of finding some ideas. Maddeningly, it's arranged alphabetically by the title of the Instructable! https://www.instructables.com/sitemap/instructable...That makes zero sense, unless you are looking for an 'able whose title you already know. I mean, honestly! -WTF is a "20KRKR", and why would anyone think to click on it to find an 'able for a *rocking chair*?! ( https://www.instructables.com/sitemap/instructables/furniture/ )So I'm wondering how one could go about either re-organizing the category, or providing an alternative browsing structure based upon the actual categorical function of each piece of furniture. Taxonomically, this should not be a problem. Seating is seating, lighting is lighting, work surfaces are work surfaces, etc., and each could logically be subdivided. For example, the Lighting category could be split into Task lighting, Area lighting, multi-function lighting, and Seating could be divided into Group seating (sofas, love seats, etc.), Single seating (arm chairs, side chairs, stools, etc.), and so on. I think that this would be vastly easier to use than the current alphabetical structure. Any opinions pro or con? Any suggestions as to how to make this happen? Is there anyone at Instructables whom I could contact and propose this to?

Topic by Bricology   |  last reply


3d Printed Concrete Forms for Architectural Post Tensioned Concrete Sculptures

I am looking at the feasibility of 3D printing concrete forms to make a staircase that goes up a 4' retaining wall. The forms would be cylindrical, split in half, and during the pour would be supported using a wood support system. Ideally I would have one main highly curved support "column" (think more of a snake or spaghetti noodle) with then stairs that slide in via a mortise and tenon type connection. The stairs would be poured individually in a separate production process than the main support. I plan on using a combination of a wire mesh, rebar and tension cables for the concrete reinforcement. The tension cables would run the length of the main support beam and would be hydraulically tensioned just before the formwork was removed. I have ample concrete experience as a civil engineer and a construction manager but this idea seems like I need some outside input.Does anyone have any experience 3d printing concrete forms. What is the best material that will hold up to the moisture and high alkalinity of concrete?At this point I have no real conceptual drawings but I'm looking to see if any similar projects have been attempted and hopefully learn and improve on them!

Topic by cjh83 


The Torrefaction Process... Anybody know how to cook wood?

For anyone out there who is not yet familiar with Torrefaction, it is a process of "baking" wood in an over between 200 and 320 degree Celsius (392 - 608 F), in the absence of oxygen. Don't quote me on those temperatures btw... I got them from Wikipedia, and they sound way too hot based on other articles I've read. The idea is, wood contains a lot of biomaterials like sugars, resigns, tar, and water. After you cut down a tree, these materials begin to vacate the wood through evaporation, sublimation, and all the other _'ations...It takes 100 years or so, but eventually, they all are gone, and the wood is super stable, and no longer expanding, moving, contracting and changing. This old wood is also extremely rot resistant and can withstand the elements. For this reason, Torrefied wood is used for decking and outdoor projects mostly. However, the guitar industry has also started to adopt using it, because you have basically aged the wood 100 years in the course of a few hours. You have also increased the price of the damn guitar to the, "your firstborn child" level. I build guitars, and I cannot believe that it can be too hard to bake some wood myself. Here are the variables that I see...1. Vessel: How to create an environment that can be brought to a specific temperature (~350-400 d F), but has also had all oxygen removed? Even if you welded together a steel box that could be locked down air-tight, and had a valve that you could pump all the air out, if you could figure out a way to heat that box to 400 d F, the water inside the wood would def. begin to boil and I imagine would be re-introducing O2. I guess you'd have to re-pump the air out every so-often until all the water was gone. 2. Temperature: Torrefication is also the exact same process that is used to turn ordinary hardwood into charcoal. I have no idea what the temperatures are, but lovely baked spruce for a guitar top has turned a slight aged tan color. But if you cranked the temp, it would eventually turn into pure carbon and be jet black like charcoal. I have no idea how to tell what temp achieves what I want. 3.) Time: I always read that Torrefied wood is baked at these temps for "several/many" hours. How would I ever know?4.) Pressure/Flames/Bomb: I know from watching YouTube videos, that when charcoal is made, wood is superheated in an oxygen-free env. until the volatile oils, resins, etc ignite and burn off, thus leaving Charcoal. I do not want to weld together a heavy steel box that becomes a high temp pressure cooker, that blows my kitchen apart when the oils in the wood inside of it ignite. Does anyone know what I am talking about and/or have any suggestions?

Topic by Dolmetscher007 


Help needed to make a model spinning teacup ride

Hi can anyone help me I need to build 2 model amusement park rides, the first one a ferris wheel this has been sorted out however the second one is a spinning teacup ride which I have no idea where to start with it. I have looked on the internet for ideas but no such luck. The spinning teacup ride has to be built out of cardboard and recycable items, this ride needs to include a mechanism that is housed in the structure. Has anyone built a model like this. Where can I find some help with this. Help!!!!!!!!!!!!! I need help Please!

Topic by dromedarius   |  last reply


How do I convert an AC device to run on a battery pack?

I have a device that runs on ac (110-120 Vac - 180w). I want to make it portable so that it can run off a battery pack such as AA or 9 Volt or even a custom battery. Is this too much of a power requirement to make it possible??? thanks in advance for your help.

Topic by gadgetcrazy   |  last reply


Run a generator with a motor

I have a 1.5kva gas engine generator but the engine part broke down. I opened it up to see if it can be fixed but the cam and the piston were shredded to pieces. I tried to run the generator part to see if it still works by hooking it up to an angle grinder via pulleys and a belt. It did work but the grinder only lasted half an hour. What better ways can i run this generator off of? What motor can i use to take the place of that broken engine? The engine speed is 3600 rpm.

Topic by Servantwind   |  last reply


Orrery Plans

Hi folks, I have a little project in mind and I was wondering if anyone knows of anywhere I can get plans to build an orrery for our solar system? Alternatively a mains powered orrery mechanism that I can build around would be good as well. Many thanks in advance

Topic by Motorbikeman   |  last reply


PVC pipes and winding Tesla coils....

There are still people out there playing with high voltage.And one big problem when it comes to Tesla coils is winding the secondary coil.Now, I won't go into the details and options of the actual winding part, instead I would like to share some tricks that might make things easier for your project.Whether you wind fully by hand or make use of some mechanical winder, magnet wire is a very slippery thing on PVC.For that reason and some others we usually wind as tight and close as possible.Any leftover spaces that you find after the winding is finnished will severly compromise the overall tension of the wire in this region if fixed.Next problem is what many call aging.No matter how good you coat your coil with varnish or paint it will start to degrade over time.I found a simple fix for these problems :)Well, not really that simple but I am too lazy today to make a full Instructable for just an addition that everyone can make in a few minutes....Let me start with idea behind it all:I noticed that no matter how thick the pipe or wire is that there is little to no chance at all to get any of the coating material through the wire and all the way down to the PVC.One coil failed after I abused it so I did some cuts and had a close look with a magnifying glass.The coil itself was really good covered but it was like a sleeve that sits on the PVC with nothing on the underside of the wire except for a few single spots.Some people will now say to just a much thinner mix for the coating to allow the stuff to sweep through but that does not always work.One big issue I noticed is that not all paints or varnishes actually stick to PVC.Especially those non smelling eco friendly ones most places now sell.This means when the coil expands due to the vibrations and heat the wire can simply rattle off the varnish or the coating itself can crack under the stress.So I thought there must be a way to fix this right at the winding stage....PVC is a good insulator too!So why not use PVC instead of messing with other things?My first attempt here works quite well with thin wire and goes like this:Go outside with your winding rig and have a bottle of PVC primer and a little brush or sponge ready as well as some gloves.If you have use a friend, if you have none make a small rig to hold the sponge right in front of your winding area.The key is to keep the sponge wet with the primer so it will wet the pipe properly.Best is to have the speed and distance set so the surface just starts to dry off under the wire.The primer will cause the PVC to soften, so the wire slightly sinks into the surface.An automatic winding rig is best here as it allows for consistency.There is no too much or too little here is nothing drips terribly and your wire sticks without fully sinking in.Once done you can cover the winding with your prefered coating.For thicker wire, lets say 0.3mm or thicker, I now use a similar way but with more preperations:Using some very rough sandpaper on a belt or vibrating sander I create a small pile of PVC dust.If you prefer some fancy color you can use ABS plasic here too and it dissolves in a similar way.The resulting mix should be free of lumps and of even color, if in doubt use more primer.Consistency should be a bit thinner than honey, if yours is too thin you can add more ABS/PVC or let the primer evaporate off while stirring it every now and then.To get a good start I do a few turns dry first with quite a big spacing.When approaching the actual start of the winding area I use some stick tape to make the last alignment and start to apply the mix onto the first bit of the winding area.Some lint free cloth with a bit of primer is used to wipe off any excess towards the still uncovered part of the pipe.Every time the mix on the pipe dries out too fast a brush with some primer is use to wet it.Every time the excess runs out a bit more mix is applied onto the wound area.The key is to only have a small area in front of the winding covered with mix with the most is on the winding and "cleaned" off towards the empty area.This way the entire wire is covered by PVC all around.To finnish off you simply use a brush and paint the mix onto the rotating coil until you have an even finnish.What are the downsides?The primer stinks and is certainly not healthy to breathe in. So good ventilation is a must have and it works better in colder temeratures as it gives you more time.It might require some test runs with braided fishing line or similar to get a feeling for how much mix or primer you need to apply and how much max tesion you can use to preven the wire from sinking in.Any benefits?IMHO using this method makes it possible to get a proper bond between the PVC pipe and the wire.And by using PVC or ABS as the coating there is little to no change material properties.This in return gives far less chances for vibrations or wire expansions that result in failing insulations.The whole thing just is one piece of PVC with the wire embedded in it instead of having a wire on top of the PVC with some coating above. ;)Are there alternatives to the PVC primer?If Acetone is much cheaper than you can use it but the same safety measures apply and the mix might dry a bit quicker.What if I need a break or stop the winding for one reason or another?Simply wipe off all access and stop with just enough tension on the wire so you can star again with no problems.Then start by wetting and applying the mix and continue winding as before.

Topic by Downunder35m   |  last reply


Looking for help with making a coils

I am wanting to make a rodin coil, like the second picture I included, except I don't have a 3D printer and I don't necessarily feel like dropping $200 on buying one and learning how to use it just to make a coil. So I'm asking if anybody would want to 3D print, ABS is fine, a Rodin coil for me? I have a PayPal account so we could work out a mutually agreed-upon price and I'll pay for shipping. I will also cover the the shipping cost. 76five, for6O, fourOsix9 shoot me a text ( that's my Google Voice number obviously I wouldn't give out my real cell phone number LOL)

Topic by DonS165   |  last reply


Torque to linear thrust through lead screw

Hi,I am trying to figure out maximum linear force I can produce with an electric motor through use of lead screw and nut. I have come up with an equation which seems correct but resulting forces are way higher than my intuition believes is correct.I tackled the problem from the perspective of energies:F' * p = M/r * 2*π*rlinear force * thread pitch = torque / radius [M/r = force at radius] * circumference of lead screwF = 2*π*M/p * (1-k) //k stands for coefficient of friction between lead screw and nut)Radius falls out of equation, which seems fine as force is provided by torque, which is radius agnostic. I used a 7€ stepper for source of torque which can provide 0.42 Nm of torque and a lead screw with 8 mm pitch and 4 mm radius, I assumed 15% losses. My equation tells me that such system can provide 280 N of force, which seems wayyy too much for a cheap motor.I have attached a python code that calculates linear force in case it helpsCan someone tell me if my equation is either correct or flawed?

Topic by ptkrf   |  last reply


Removing Broken M2 Tap from Anodised Aluminium 2014.

Hello Everyone,As you might have read, I have a Milled Aluminium 2014 Block which is Anodized with Black color, Today when I was tapping the holes of it, the M2 Tap broke and got stuck inside that hole, there is no portion of it outside the hole, so I can't unscrew it and pull it out.I saw a few videos on youtube on how to use alum water, or electrolysis(with 10% dil H2SO4) to dissolve or chemically remove the Tap bit from the hole, But my question is is it possible that using any of the above options could destroy the anodizing on the job work. and is there any other easy method I can use?Please Note that the tap bit is M2 and There are no tap extraction tools for a bit that small on the internet (or Locally Available in India) but if you find one Please post links for the same. Please Be Positive and make this community a happy place. Thanks.

Topic by _Boltz_   |  last reply


3D Printer Thermistor in a K type thermocouple

Hi all,Quick question before I butcher something unnecessarily.Can I connect a bog standard thermistor as found in Chinese 3D printer (of which I have spares) to a k type thermocouple plug (I have none) and use it in my k type thermometer?Or should I just buy the slightly more expensive correct lead?I want to monitor temps @ the heat break of a new hot end.

Topic by Squibo   |  last reply


Where can I find Recycled Pet Felt sheets?

Where can I get completely recycled pet felt sheets. Would require them in large quantities for development of furniture. Is there any option in India?

Topic by bedraj.tripathy 


Need help building a small extension for my desk

I got a microphone arm that clamps down to my desk ( can be seen in the picture) but the problem is that it's right in front of my mouse. I have to have it folded it up because it does not have to be extended since it's right there. It has gotten annoying after a while and I change it to hang from essentially where my window is ( also shown). my desk is has drawers and doesn't have any edges to clamp it down to so I was thinking if I can make a short extension for it. I don't need a whole new section I just need a secure extension that can be used to sustain the weight of the arm and mic. I tried drawing it and I hope it helps showing you guys what I envision. Thanks!

Topic by Crux_Yo   |  last reply


A rewiring electric scooter issue

WHEN I REWIRED MY EZIP 1000 ELECTRIC SCOOTER, NOTHING SEEMED TO WORK BUT WHEN I TWISTED THE THROTTLE THE POWER SWITCH LIGHT CAME ON. IT WENT OFF WHEN I RELEASED THE THROTTLE. WHAT DID I DO WRONG?

Topic by floridianskin   |  last reply