Workshop Topics


How to make an 'Ashley Too' from Black Mirror?

Hi Guys, My girlfriend is planning to dress as Ashley O from the Black Mirror episode 'Rachel, Jack and Ashley Too' for her Birthday party in November. As a nice surprise I'd like to make her an Ashley Too from the show, bonus points if I can fit it around my Alexa. Was thinking of using an Old Air freshner for the body, hollowing it and fitting the Alexa inside.Any ideas on how I could build the head and light it? Fimo for the hair maybe?What about the arms and adding some basic articulation?Would love some ideas!

Question by flakjack    |  last reply


Can wd40 be used to lubricate PVC? If not, what can be used? Answered

I heard somewhere that WD40 would damage or corrode PVC, and wanted to know if this was true. If it is, does anyone know what could be used to lubricate PVC.

Question by 1337f0x    |  last reply


Can I use a 30C lipo on a Ct6b transmitter?

Does the C rating matter when using lipos on transmitters?

Topic by samyuelmurungi    |  last reply


Can this unit “Pioneer mvh-s219bt” drive two of this “Pioneer TS-R6951S 3 Way Coaxial Speakers” without any external amplifiers?

I am trying to replace my factory head unit and two speakers system in my car, with the above system, i am poor so if this works then please dont suggest any other options or better company names, just tell me whether my new system works fine or do i need an amp to just power those two speakers? i am not planing to have woofers tweeters or any other speakers, only these two coaxial speakers on two front doors, will this work? thank you for the help :)

Topic by sreessxp    |  last reply


Animating Xmas Parade Float

Below are some pics of the Xmas parade float that a few of the other dads and I put together for last year's town Xmas parade. We are planning on keeping the same theme this year but wanted to upgrade a bit. Our goal is to automate the reindeer to give them some linear action that will give them the appearance of flying.When reviewing the pics, please note that the frame that the reindeer are attached to will be completely rebuilt. I was thinking of a frame with a double 2x3 side. Where one of the 2x's will have a channel routed out in it and the other one with the reindeers attached will then be able to slide back and forth by it.Another note is that Rudolph will not move. I have included some rough sketches of my initial thoughts using a motor and a cam. My problem is in finding the right motor for the job. I would need a high torque, low rpm (about 20) motor to do the job and I can't seem to find one. I have thought of using a mixing drill and a speed controller, but the mixing drill has an rpm from 0 - 550 and I am not sure the speed control will be able to slow it just 20 and even if it does, I am not sure there will be enough torque at that reduced rpm.I am certainly open to other suggestions. Thanks in advance for any thoughts or comment you may have.

Topic by EricW194    |  last reply


How can I tell if a first floor wall is load bearing? Answered

Hi, I would like to remove the wall between my kitchen and dining room to open up the area.  How can I tell if the wall is load bearing? The wall is on the 1st floor, runs lengthwise to the house and is about in the middle of the house, but it doesn't travel the entire length of the house. Any help or advice is appreciated.

Question by JMH renovations    |  last reply


The Newman Motor Challenge !

I was recently approached by someone claiming the old Newman Motor wouldn't be good for anything.Well, I was a little bit offended by this as I already had my little toy version of it as kid.At that time though it really was just a toy for me.Critics still say the Newman Motor is nothing more than some interesting machine.And even the biggest followers will admit it is not a free energy machine, just a very efficient one.I experimented with, what some call fringe science, now for about 30 years.And it all started with math and my interest in unusual ways of dealing with problems.So what's behind the challenge?The original design was suprisingly simple as you can see in the above Wiki link.Just a spinning magnet in a (split) coil.What you don't find anywhere though is real details on the how to.Sure, you need to have some sort of contact linked to the rotation and timing is critical but what does it all do?You can build a drt simple model in a few hours with stuff you might have around already.Quite a few Youtubers are happy to share their creations.The actual challenge is to come up with what Newman really did inside his drum.And also why I think it is not the full potential his machine had.Build a simple Newman motor and check for how long you can let it run on a charge super capacitor.Then sit back and read some of the other magnet stuff I wrote.After that come up with a better design ;)I started to create some 3D models that need testing once I find more free time - should take some leave one day..But for those with little patience and an interest in the Newman Motor I decided to share my current idea:For some it might be really confusing although they know motors and magnetic fields.Those just playing with magnets might have it easier for once as they can pretend they followed my thoughts ;)The original design used two coils and a rotating magnet.If you consider how the magnet creates an electromagntic field in the coils then you have to wonder right away how it can spin.And most designs will indeed need a push start to get going!You can't have electricity produced without the magnet spinning and you can't make it spin without electricity!The current from the battery or capacitor can only flow at the short moment of contact on the axle.This moment needs to be timed "mechanical" as we don't want to waste any power on not required electronics.If you ever bothered to check the timing of a Newman Motor then you realised the collapsing electromagnetic field at the moment of contact actually is in reverse to what the manget has in that position.Unlike any normal motor it means the magnet produces most of the power the coil needs to make the rotor spin!So far for the well known facts, now for my fiction:I would like to call my version the Aussie Newman Motor as all things downunder are just different ;)Here are my current desing mods, that I freely share so everyone can benefit form many years of experimenting to save a lot of time.1. Instead of two coils a not-really-bifilar coil is centered on the axle.The coil is created like two stacked relay coild that have no bobbin and a "dint" to allow the axle to pass through.Without the big gap of the original less of the magnetic field strenght is lost and the coil is far closer to a homogenous magnet.2. The timing done by salvaging a simple DC motor's contacts and brushes.This allows for far higher currents and if the salvaged motor had enough poles also for a very short "burst".3. The axle contact is made with a cleaned steel bearing.After cleaning very conductive copper based lubricant is used in tiny amounts to prevent corrosion and provide a lower resistance.The clear benefit is that with the new timing system a lot more current can flow.Initial tests with a mock up model showed an increase in run time from the capacitor of about 15% already.With proper bearings and a salvaged DC motor I hope to reach 18 to 20% more than the original design.Now why the DC motor if a reed contact or hall effect sensor would be even faster and with less resistence?Neither can handle really high currents without additional electronics ;)Plus of course I wanted to leave the door open for the Aussie Newman Motor 2020.You might now say "Why bother if the above improvements are already so great?".If you followed my elsewhere for a while then you know the Newman Motor is only 2D but I prefer 3D or more harmony if you like.Right now the imagination of people re-inventing Newman's machine is limited.They try to get on the horse from behind - literally.Fancy electronics, machined parts and so on.But they never go 3D ;)You got it? :)There is only two coils!!The magnet rotates, same as the contact on the axle.One set of coils for each contact the salvaged DC motor has.Each set aligend to the corresponding contact.And now you will ask "How do you plan to connect that to a single DC power source?Well, that is why it will be the 2020 model - my time for tinkering is sadly limited because I still need to work to support myself.But if you consider that the original as a good model can run for over 10 minutes on a supercapcitor then ask yourself how long it could run on 4 or even 8 coil sets.And although there is no such thing as "free energy": There will be still space for more coils.Or other coils to just provide electricity that does not power the motor.Critics will now see their chance and state that if we add a load to these additional coils then this will cause a strain on the system.Of course they are correct here.If, however, the load is mechanical then the motor needs to supply basically the same additional energy.Plus all mechanical losses.The question is: How much mechanical load can we add before the motor is down to the same efficiency of a very efficient DC motor? ;)And what if our Aussie Newman 2020 would actually violate the laws of physics?We can calculate how much electrical energy would be required so a given motor produces a fixed amount of torque.Or we can just measure it, the beauty of science...We can do the same in reverse of course.Let's say a mechanical pump would require 500RPM and 100Nm of torque to pump 100 liters per minute.Then we could calculate what sized motor we need to drive the thing and how much power the motor would need.So again: What if the Aussie Newman 2020 would require far less than what science makes us think and still does this job on a simple 12V lead acid batty of 4Ah?Just saying... ;)I hope to have a presentable and working 2 coil system by May, so stay tuned!In case you are faster or even beter then of course feel free to show off your results or to post a link to your Instructable so everyone can verify it.

Topic by Downunder35m    |  last reply


Construction ideas for this concept?

Recently, I have been working on a gas 'vaporizer' that evaporates gas before being fed into an engine. During my short-term experiment, I found that this saves ~70% (+-20% for crudity of measurement.) This works because the vapors will burn more thoroughly and cleanly, leading to higher apparent efficiency. Below is a basic diagram of how the system works. You can see there is a container that is half-full with gas, and a hose goes down with many small holes. As the engine's compression draws a vacuum on the container, air will come up through the holes. As it rises, the gas-air surface area rises dramatically, leading to the vaporization of gas. To further increase the surface area, I also added a felt liner on the inside to allow the gas liquid to rise and evaporate. The final mixture ends up very rich, so to compensate, a 'T' fitting has been added to allow air to mix in with the vapors/fumes. Some valves have also been added to control the air inlet (similar to a 'choke') and the amount fed to the engine (similar to a throttle. In fact, it is possible to use the original throttle or choke as a throttle on the carburetor on my tractor!) The problem is: My original design utilized a plastic folgers coffee can, and the flimsy plastic top was hot glued to a thicker plastic cutout for strength and support. Since most glues will dissolve in gasoline, including hot glue, it could not be used. most did not hold anyway. I also tried JP weld plastic cement and it did not hold at all. I had to trash this build. I did, however, get enough use to run the tractor for several minutes while testing gas use. I found that the tractor used nearly twice as much simply running on gas than the fumes. I did not have the float valve and electric pump hooked up with the prototype. Also the 3/4in housing I used may be a bit constrictive and also seems to get slightly damaged by the gas. It will not be a long-term solution.  So I need to redesign the project, and I am thinking of using a 1-3 gallon bucket that is sealed or a gas tank. I need good almost air-tight seals on everything. I am asking for any ideas related to the construction of this device and any tips you may have.

Question by -max-    |  last reply


Industrial sewing machine table replacement top

Has anyone on here ever replaced the top on an industrial sewing machine table? I'm looking for ideas for a sturdy top that supports a heavy machine as well as a heavy electric motor. Mine has sagged to a point where the belt is rubbing. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Question by jayfedora83    |  last reply


Acetone Vapor fogger project - Ultrasonic atomizer component

Greetings!I'm halfway through making MechEngineerMike's acetone vapor fogger (see attached pics) and noted that the ultrasonic atomizer componenet shown in the Instructable article is a metal encased unit. The one that I found in the same host product I purchased appears to be silicone-encased. https://www.instructables.com/id/Ultrasonic-Mistin...Q: Has anyone else built one of these and do you have any insight as to whether the silicone encased ultrasonic atomizer will work for this application?Thank you for your time in reading this inquiry.Corey

Question by Coreyflash    |  last reply


Solved! Desperately searching for a project

Found it! https://www.instructables.com/id/Ductiles-Interactive-Graphic-and-Message-Board/Hi GuysAbout a year ago I saw a cool project that I can not find again. I have tried dozens of tags (typo picture/wall art/letter/game/puzzle/mosaic/grid...) and crawled many many pages but no success... please help. It was a kind of typography picture with replaceable wooden tiles on a grid, maybe 10 x 10 tiles. You can combine the different tiles to form a letter/character or a geometric shape/picture. A little bit like a "typography wooden pixel art mosaic" I would be very happy if someone out there remembers this project and shares a link with me. Thank you!

Topic by Tobotron10    |  last reply


Need help designing a current limiting circuit for a DC powered device.

What would the simplest and most energy efficient circuit be to limit the current from a DC transformer?  I have several 12-15VDC plug-in transformers that deliver between 800-1000mA, but a device I need to power requires 12-15VDC at 350mA MAX.  Any thoughts, help, or advice would be appreciated!

Question by AJackOfAllTrades    |  last reply


How do I get compression into my engine?

I have a 2000 Grand Am Pontiac 6 cylinder. I have low to no compression in my engine, i haven't got a compression test done, at first I thought it was because I had a hole in my radiator hose, but i changed that along with my battery and both are perfectly fine, but car still won't start. It makes the sound like there is no compression, so I was wondering how do you get compression back into an engine. I spoke with a mechanic and he said that i could pour transmission oil into the spark plugs and that should do, I just wanted a second oppinon and see if there are any other ideas.

Question by BriLaneaC    |  last reply


Cant enter instructable in contests

Help I cant enter my instructables in contests. I have just published an instructable. For some reason when I click on any of the contests to enter, I get a pop up about "In order to enter this contest you must be logged in and have published an instructable since the launch of this contest." and I have no way to enter. The instructable was just published. Some of them close tomorrow that I want to enter. Can I get some help

Question by GunGeek369    |  last reply


3D printing filament recycling guide

If you print a lot then you also have a lot of plastic to waste.Support structures, brims, failed parts....At some stage you start to wonder if it makes sense to invest into a filament extruder.A filament extruder is a simple way to make you own filament.A 25kg bag of granules in ABS cost only a few bucks and it will last like forever.It also the prefered choice for a plastic extruder of any sort - fresh, new and clean material!I do collect a lot of leftover plastic from my projects, is it worth getting a machine to recycle it?Trust the advertisements of the commercially available models you buy one right away - if you can afford it...But there is always a catch!What are the basic requirements when collecting you already used filament?It would be easier to state what you should avoid at all costs, so let me start with the most forgiving filament types - ABS and PLA....Both will require that you keep your filament clean at all costs.You want dust removed before the filament even enters you print head and same for all that you want to recycle.Conatminents are the biggest deal breaker when you recycle filament!!!That means parts of dissimilar materials,like when printing with two heads are just rubbish and go in the recycling bin outside.The difference between ABS and PLS for recycling comes with the material properties.ABS, if not printed too hot does not change too much, PLA on the other side usually ends up to be more brittle than new filament.ABS should not be heated too high, same for PLA when you recycle.But when PLA gets too hot it not only becomes really runny but also deteriotes very quickly.Run a bit of PLA through print head like when changing filament or cleaning the head.Do one run at normal temperatur, one run at 240°C and compare how the extruded and colled string reacts ;)PLA is also prone to oxidisation and burning, espcially the black type is tricky here as you won't be able to see it, so avoid black if possible.If it happens then you end up with rock hard piece, the size depends and can be tiny or bigger than a grain of sand.A total nightmare if you did not spot that black spot in the filament and let the recycled stuff run through your printer.A total block of the nozzle is the result.Nylon I can't really recommend for recycling, too complext to handle it properly.Same for filled filament like the wood or metal types.With them it is really easy to accumulate a lump of filler that does the same block to your nozzle.To wash or not to wash....No matter what you try there will be always some contaminents that end in your collected material.ABS can be washed with water and does not require too much fancy drying.If in doubt you can even try your dishwasher or with a good bag your washing machine - both require proper rinsing several times and the last run with some added alcohol to demineralised or destilled water.I use a box with a flyscreen cover and let it dry outside in the sun for a while.PLA does not go too well with water especially with added soaps or detergents.On the other hand it has no big problems tolerate things like Acetone.Downside such solvents also dissolve a lot of contaminats which mean even though you can recycle your washing Acetone many, many time you always need fresh Acetone for the rinsing.If you can try too keep all as clean as possible to eliminate the need for washing.Can I get better results from my cheap filament maker or the one I build for some online instructions?I find that there is always room to improve on things.Before you even think about extruding your home made filament think about how to get your failed print into the thing ! ;)The most vital part comes before you even heat the machine unless it is a really fancy one with a build in and big enough shredder.That is right you need a shredder of sorts to be able to get your recycled material fine enough for the filament maker.Some models you might quickly find as tutorials to build your own use basically a big wood drill for the mechanical part to simulate a meat grinder for plastic.Even the better ones for real money often use this basic system in one way or another.The problem is that you need to get all air out the material before it ends up to be the outgoing string you roll up.Any bubbles in filament will certainly have consequences if the bubble appears during the printing of visible areas.Imagine printing in vase mode and hitting a bubble during the last 20 minutes of a 3 hour print...Unless it is dirt simple hobby built there will some mechanism to deal with the air.However if what goes in is already very fine material it melts easier and air has it a lot easier to find a way out.A good shredder will produce quite small granules but not strips or blocks.The have their limits for intake size though.The best way to get through bigger builds is a band saw, if have a clean table you can even recycle the "saw dust".I prefer to heat bigger parts in the oven at moderate temps and then to use a hammer or press to flatten it first.No shredder or no money to add one to the list? No problem!If your filament maker does not have a pre-heated feeding area of sorts it makes sense to add one with aheating mantle and external temperature controller.Trust me, if you have odd stuff to push in it is way easier if the material softens already before it enter the extruder drive part.As the extruder will get quite warm anyway it can be as simple as adding a short pipe section with the heating mantle between the extruder inlet and feeding funnel or hopper.the temperature in theis areas should of course be will below melting point and slightly above the temp when the material start to become plyable.Hence the external temp controller here.With this heating in the fedding area you really need to get your recycled material into a suitable size and shape to allow the material to be transported easy into the extruder.Ok, I got it working, sort of...You will need some time to find the prefect temperatures for per-heating, extruder temps and coooling, so take it!If your filament comes out with bubbles or fine (hard and unwanted) particles it makes sense to cheat.Most filament makers include a filter before the melted material enters the nozzle and really hot part.In some cases this filter can be as simple as a steel mesh.If none find ways to add one ;)Said filter screen should be quite fine, preferably even finer that what you find in your faucet that airates thewater for the sink.As a rule of thumb the mesh size should at least 15% finer than the nozzle size you intent to use.Anything that makes it through will only be a problem for your nozzle if a lot of crap comes through and that you should be able to spot right away when the cooled filament comes out.If despite this you still get too many bubbles check first if your temps are not going too high so the plastic start to boil in an area.Too much speed can also cause a failure to expell all air in time, reducing the speed (watch the temps!!) can often resolve this nagging air problem.It it really worth it then?On a hobby level only if you print a lot and know you will keep going like this.Otherwise you really need to be able to source or build your filament maker as cheap as possible.Someone with a little print shop and three machines running 24/7 will certainly have a good benefit over time.Especially if the recycling is part of the overall printing process.Recycled material could be used in a dedicated head and extruder for supports, infills and so on.For example in the printer dedicated to produce the biggest parts as these usually have bigger nozzle sizes anyway.In a commercial sense however it must be considered what the material is worth in terms of normal recycling and the added hours and electricity cost for making your own filament.Unless even the cheapest commercailly available filament still costs much more than what you need to invest to the machines and electricity over the time the man hours are the biggest killer.If you need someone to monitor the filament maker and keep feeding it while making sure the spools wind up correctly then your own spools might end up quite costly.So decide carefully before you invest or use you oven and a mold to make you own recyled plastic bricks for your garden beds and such.

Topic by Downunder35m    |  last reply


How to grow a crystals with gypsum and other materials?

Dear: Instructables Just to let you know I am limited to materials in my house. I want to grow a crystal with plaster like plaster of Paris but I am running into a few problems. I know that Gypsum or plaster of Paris is already a crystal but it doesn't have the necessary hardness I want. I want It to have a hardness of a minimum of 6 on the Mohs's scale. I also am limited to chemistry knowledge. I've been trying all day to design a crystal with the specifications I want but I've been having trouble trying to draw a Lewis dot diagram for plaster of Paris. I am not that good at drawing Lewis dot diagrams unfortunately. Here are some materials in my house I think I could use to incorporate with the homemade crystals. Acetone Potassium Chloride Sugar Baking Soda Potassium Nitrate and more... Can I have some help please? Thank you. From: Noah

Topic by nschreiber0813    |  last reply


how do i repair a leaking gas tank without welding it?

no one makes the tank for my motorhome anymore and i do not have welding tools.so how do i fix this?

Question by twighahn    |  last reply


Need help with Original GameBoy DMG

I have an Original GameBoy DMG, that when I turn on with game cartridge loaded , it goes through its trademark symbol then starts flashing with what looks like zeros up and down and across the entire screen, I checked to make sure it was not the game by trying it in another GameBoy I have and it worked fine, any ideas on how to fix, please and thank you.

Question by Smallville1962    |  last reply


Watching the moon without the blurry view?

We put our biggest telescopes on the highest mountians and as far away from civilisation as possible.Reason behind is light pollution and atmospheric distortion.My days of playing with a big telescope in the garden every night are long over, life moves on once you need a job to make a living and something like a family.A while ago I had a look through a friend's telescope at night again when I was asked to give him a hand with the connection to Wifi, computer, printer and so on.Just imagine a big telescope with built in camera and Wifi.Checking the claimed to be astonishingly clear pictures of the moon we took I started to wonder...Being able to get a "close up" so to say of a little crater on the moon is nice.But I missed the clearity.If you take a picture with your phone or camera with perfect setting then you get the best possible picture.Not so much for the moon.Those who ever used a telescopic lens on the camera with some haze or fog will know how things in the atmosphere have certain effects.The moon is basically in a boring grey so BW cameras would be sufficient and also eliminate all the bad side effects of colored imagining chips.Other reasons than our atmosphere that can prevent a clear picture...The earth rotates and so does the moon, sadly this makes tracking hard over such a distance.Constantly changing brightness levels make the right exposure a nightmare, especially if you want to combine images to get a combined one without the shadows.So why not use what we already have to eliminate or compensate most of the issues we have?The hardware required for the tracking of stellar objects and computer control should not be an issue anymore.Once you position is syncronised with the current position of the moon the computer would be able to calculate and track with extreme precision.Using highly sensitive BW cameras might be a short term fix, better would be a chip and lens system only sensitive to the visible wavelengths with the least atmospheric distortions.The last would be to actually use an AI to track every pixel as it is taken and to compare it with previous pixels taken in that same spot to check for brightness matches and wavelenght.A simplyfied version of this is still in use for the restauration of old films from the analog days.The moving film meant that the pictures are not always perfectly in sync in terms of their position for the single images.If digitised like this the result would be a quite blurry film.An algorithm checks for the usual up and down differences and matches the positions so in reference to the selected frame rate it results in the sharpest possible image.For the moon there is always a majority of less distortion giving us the impression of the image we see.The key is have an algorithm that can detect and filter out those frames or if powerful enough pixels with the most distortion.Quite similar to the steady function on your cameras and phones these days, at least for the digital part.Just in reverse so to say.With perfect and smooth tracking a frame by frame collection of the area you want an image of would result in a much clearer and detailed image.A bit like HDR works now.You take a lot of images and combine them to get the best possible details on all light level and all colors.We only need BW though...How would an algorithm an an AI be able to make an image clearer and more detailed?Currently we already compensate for camera movements, brightness levels, focus, colors and much more through the AI of our phones.Where someone with a DSLR or the good old SLR and real film needs to find the perfect setting for a shot in the amount of time the shot is available we just click a button on the screen and the AI does the rest for us.Sure, instead of three or four pictures taken as quickly as your phone can do our MOON-HDR algorithm might need a few thausand pictures to create one good image and several hours to do so....But hey, it is up there every night and day, we can perfectly track it and automate the process over days or weeks if we want to capture a full cycle.If it that easy then certainly the big telescopes on those mountains would make use of it!!Well, they actually do, but for the sole purpose of deep space exploration.The movements of earth and in space and referenced to the possible errors of the hardware...We only need to care about pixels moving in a fixed image...The algorithm in the simple form works on a frame by frame base, the proper one on a direct pixel one.Either way the collected images will create piles where all checks match.More piles means more and more areas to overlay like in a stitching process.More overlays mean more "filter" used to check the original images against.The amount of light hitting the moon is pretty predictable and easy to factor in for an AI.The amount of light loss by the atmosphere at the time the image was taken could be factored in by the means of external atmospheric sensors.In the most basic form a "ping" with a laser onto a satellite on a fixed position between telescope and moon, or close by.The the google AI tries to find more and more links to make more and more reference about our internet use our algorithm collects pixel informations for a fixed position in a digital image.Quite simple once you think about it, isn't it? ;)It is just a matter of time and amount of data being collected.What was already possible in the days of converting analog movies into the digital world can't be too hard to do with an object that we can literally nail to the wall in terms of images....So why isn't anyone doing it already?In therory anyone could just hire some time on a quantum computer or old style super computer and use their own algorithms to sort the images.In reality that would cost you a few millions quickly.Graphics card are already well in use to do other things than bringing an image to a monitor.They used a calculating work horses - the bitcoin mining is a prime example here.Medical and scientific use another.Her it is quite ommon that clusters of powerful graphics cards do nothing than to run simulations.Already a form of AI, although quite simple.There is no huge market for telescopes, let alone big and powerful ones for the sole purpose of watching moon.Why bother, it is up there every night but all the stars and planets up there need to watched first....You will have a hard time finding a manual telescope with a simple way to follow the moon through the night.Watching the andromeda nebula on the other hand is quite easy...Worse still for the cameras.What is out there for use with telescopes or integrated into one is optimised to get the most light out of everything that is quite dim.Even your basic telescope usually has a moon filter already because the thing is so damn bright.Professional BW cameras would need expensive and custom made adapters to fit a telescope's optics.Last but not least is the tracking mechincs that are simply not designed to follow the moon, neither in its movement, nor the speed it is moving.But as said the tracking could be fixed with a custom version designed for watching the moon and a little microcontroller to drive very smoth running motors and gears.Is a fancy smartphone the way out for the images?Not really unless you want to constanly fight to get and keep manual control about the settings for the BW camera on the back.And they are not really designed to be used like that for hours every night.The only way out is size and speed.What would the perfect telscope/camera combination look like?Atmospheric interference means the light is scattered.And ideally that should be the only thing the AI has to worry about later on.Sadly, when we take a picture we need a certain exposure time to capture enough light.This mean mean collect something you compare to a fast moving object.You just cant get a clear image of spinning fan blades easy these days...Shorter exposure times are only possible with enough light.There are two way we use to get enough light for a given exposure time.Add some more light or use a bigger lens.Our standard telescopes are designed for eye pieces for, well, our eyes.Imaginea huge sized 40 megapixel sensor perfectly positioned in a telescope.Using only optics to compensate image distortion and to match the incoming image size to the sensor size.No telescope optics and camera optincs fighting for the right position, just perfectly matched for the purpose of takin images from the moon...If said sensor would be highly sensible most people would cry out and say the moon is too bright - but we want to use every bit of light to lowe our exposure times ;)Imagine a high speed camera only taking BW picture of the moon.At a speed of over 2000 frames per second....Why bother with overcomplicated tracking if you can take millions of images every night.You will only bother about storage and calculating problems after a single night already LOLThe amount of pixels of near identical properties in the same spot would soon be much higher than the amount of blurry pixels with different values.And the AI would still be able to match those blurry ones with frames from other images.But who really wants to see footprints and left over parts on the moon?We have been there, we have seen it...And if go up again we will have live coverage anyway from up close, so there really is no need for anyone to get a clear image of the moon from down here, or is there?

Topic by Downunder35m  


Cover image darkening Answered

Hello,I recently made an instructable and when i saved it, it always darkened the cover image so it made it really hard to see. I tried over and over again but every time and even with different pictures, after generating the image, it would make it really dark.I'm wondering if there is a way to fix this? I hope it does not affect my instructable as it is entered in a contest. I took a screenshot to show the difference, i might not look bad but on the contest its really dark.Contest linkInstructable Link

Question by Perfect DIY    |  last reply


My favorites count reset

Favorites of my instructable are zero. Was 59. On my last instructable more then 1k visualization. No favorites. I saw several instructables that had many favorites, now zero. Nobody signaled this?

Question by andrei.erdei    |  last reply


How to Build a cheap small stone cnc machine?

So here is the thing, I have so much stone on my property that I no longer want to remove and throw them away. I wanted to buy small cube stones so that I can lay a driveway and make paths around.So instead of me going to buy which are expensive by piece and I will need a huge quantity, I am thinking about building a CNC machine that I can use to carve out the stones into smaller cubes until I get enough for my driveway. I have been looking for systems unfortunately these are huge and very expensive and unable to find smaller ones for my needs. I also need to know about the types of drill that I will need for specific types of stones. I need to be able to move the machine around my property instead of moving the huge chunks of stones.Here are some examples that I have been looking around Thanks

Question by Chamburn  


Help with noob to cnc

So I'm totally new to cnc and would love to be able to build a CNC router just looking for some advice please, iv looked through most of the instructables and iv got some grate ideas on how to go about the build I'm just off a little with the electronics, are all in one control board any good or is it better to keep control and driver separately, iv found one board in particular that's got my attention Any help would be much appreciated thanks

Question by jmh474    |  last reply



Railbiking. Anyone built one?

I heard an interview today with author William Least Heat-Moon.  In his latest book, he meets a man who has built an outrigger bicycle he calls a "Railcycle", which he uses to ride on disused railroad tracks all over the world. Curious, I did some searching, and found a number of places on the web where people are talking about this, but they all seem outdated. Bentley Railbikes Railbike Tours Homebuilt Railbike Has anyone else heard of this practice?  Do you know of anyone currently making and riding such contraptions?  Do you have one of your own?

Topic by yoyology    |  last reply


Hobby CNC router/engraver idea

I recently had to fix a friends (chinese) mini router.Long story short short: I realised that those things are only good for a small Dremel but not a real router.After looking up what is available in the tinker areas it seemed the only way out is the expensive way of using servo drives.Not really easy to handle either if you want some Arduino or Raspberry do the computing parts...So what would actually be required to make a cheap but still usable tabletop router that can handle 10mm playwood or work with (at least) Aluminium?In most if not all cases the tool will limit the movement speeds quite drastically.If neither makes any sense to force the rotating tool through the material, nor to make several high speed passes to get the results.Even when engraving stone or aluminium (dry) you can only do it so fast.The hobby market is full of Arduino or Raspberry based router projects but most, if not all use standard Nema motors for the positioning.As a lot came from the 3D printing area I guess it just made sense.And if you want to run servo drives or similar you won't control them with some cheap Arduino.Nema motors however suffer from the problem of limited torque at higher speeds.And using normal gearboxes only goes so far as the higher the reduction, the lower the resulting max speed will be.Means in the real world a Nema motor would struggle with any gearbox to get a reasonable speed to work with high loads.I think the way out could be to use external encoders for the positioning.Like on the early ink jet printers the slotted band attached to the printhead did.Or if you are old enough you still remember the mechanical mouse that stopped working once the code wheels were full of dust.The Idea came to me when servicing a geared motor for a 8-way valve.Just a cheap Mabuchi RS555 style motor and a planetary gear box.Together they produce a whopping 800nM of torque and literally no backlash at all on the output side.High resolution encoder wheels with sensor are available quite cheap as well.I did some very basic math on the accuracy side of things based on a table size of 1.2x1.2m.Using a chain drive we are looking at less than 1/2 mm using standard chains and below 1/10 of a mm using tight, precision chains.Going lead screw and heavy duty, high torque the accuracy is about the same as on a good 3D printer but the speed will be quite slow - I guesstimated around 3-4mm/s.A heavy duty belt drive system seems to be perfect as we can adjust the drive pulley size to match the gear ratio and speed requirements.Chains work fine as well here but usually mean a higher overall cost.The benefits are really high torque with more than reasonable speed is possible.The mechanics and electronics can be kept very simple.No high speed processor required, a simple 8-bit Arduino Mega will do fine.No expensive motor controllers, just a simple DC motor driver with PWM control.Extreme holding torque when an axis is not moving thanks to the gearbox.Code sensor can be driven by the belt or chain to get direct distance measurements.Downsides of the approach....The initial costs will be higher than standard Nema motor based solutions.To my knowledge there is no Open Source project for this kind of approach available (yet).With the heavy duty mechanics it won't be very portable, best to have it stationary mounted somewhere in the workshop.Quick reversing of the direction will require suitable DC motor drivers that can not only reverse the polarity but also provide the option for a break resistor to allow a fast stop of the motor without backfeeding generated electricity.Getting 3 dimensions would require a motorised table which can be a challenge if you need to support a loaf of weight and stay steady while a tool causes a lot of pushing in all sorts of directions.Probably a sissor lift system in all four corners would work best here.Happy tinkering! ;)And if the idea is already out and in use just forget about it LOL

Topic by Downunder35m  


Hurst model T motor

Hello my name is Freddy iam in New York DYI hobbiest and iam doing a table project that is a rotating workbench for different bench top tools to be used and it will rotate on this motor but my problem is how to power it.. I would like to plug it and later add a switch to it.. Any help would be greatly appreciated thank you for time and patience... Freddy Westchester New York/AKA YO

Question by FreddyS19    |  last reply


how can I make a wild rabbit house?

I wanted to find some free diy plans on making a portable, house for rabbits, that for wild rabbits that's designed so the rabbits will not need any matanince (because they are wild critters which do there own natural thing  so people do not have to disturb them,with access for emergency use. you can make your own project then post it just make sure it's safe for the rabbits and people, I don't want to spend too much money, It's just a possible plan it's not a garrentee   I disclaim I am a humane ethical young man, I am good at heart, I will see what I an do if nessary and get my parents concent, it is meant within the terms of use

Question by 35Timmy    |  last reply


Stacked wood beam pyramid frame

Can someone point me in the right direction? i need to find either a tutorial, or the math i need to use for my cuts to make what is in the photo. i have been searching a solid 6 hours, through hundreds of "results" pages. have not found ONE link, not even an image of anything that resembles it. i am 98% sure that the problem is me not being able to word it properly. Please help. Thanks

Question by headlamp.mafia    |  last reply


New metal frame house, interior walls and ceiling ideas

Ok, guys I am planning my next house. I want to build a metal single level kit house over a basement.Like most of you, I can't leave well enough alone. I am always thinking about change, i.e. put up a ceiling fan, add recessed lighting, drop a new ethernet line where I need it, etc. So in thinking about the walls and ceiling of the new house I want your input.First I was thinking of making the interior wall height 10', then I can install a drop ceiling at what every level I want. Later, i can change the drop ceiling at will. Above the drop ceiling, on the underside of the rafters, insulate with rigid foam insulation (maybe the top side of the rafters?).Next the walls. I plan to spray foam insulation between the 24" studs. Drywall seems to be too permanent. What could I put up, durable enough for the occasional bumps when installing furniture, but could be removed if something needs to be added behind it? I have a thought about putting up a shelving system, but that wouldn't work on every wall. Again, I appeal to the hive mind for suggestions.Help a DIY addict,Ralph

Question by Manassasralph    |  last reply


In need of some IKEA Akurum suspension rail. There’s got to be some out there!

We bought an IKEA AKURUM kitchen shortly before it was discontinued. 9I was never told it was going to be discontinued of course). Because of some health issues we are just starting to install it now and I cannot get any of the parts from IKEA . They did not sell us enough suspension rail and we need some more. Bueller? Bueller?

Question by Susanmellett    |  last reply


Alice the Robot

After several months of tinkering I managed to complete my 2nd robot based off an instructables project listed below. I tweaked the code a bit and also added a ATTINY85 for the blinking LED on the top of its head. So far its working flawlessly. The biggest problem i had was cutting the old rubbermaid plastic as I don't have a proper dremel. I might add a bluetooth module in the future so I can control it with my phone...https://youtu.be/E0ONc3FG91M Instructables project Alice is based off of: https://www.robotshop.com/letsmakerobots/maep-20

Topic by willy99    |  last reply


Can i fit a V6 in a prius? Answered

I was thinking, ( just toying around with ideas) i could rip out the hybrid system, then put the engine in hachback area.

Question by The Dark Lord    |  last reply


What is this tool?

Can anyone identify what this tool is?

Question by GarethB29    |  last reply


How to stop oil going into a motor from the attached pump?

I am fighting a little war with some oil pumps.Attached to a 1/2HP motor the construction is quite simple.To prevent leaking there is a spring loaded oil seal between pump and motor.But this seal is never 100% if you deal with 180°C hot vegetable oil....At these temps the stuff is literally thinner than water and sooner or later finds a way out.Main problem I am facing is the drying of the vegetable oil.Over time it turns intoa really hard resin.But before that it manages to creep all the way into the motor bearing in the front part of the motor.It drives out the grease and slowly replaces it with drying resin util the whole thing seizes.Rebuilding is a true pain in the back as it is a 180V DC motor with build in rectifier and regulator to run on 220V AC mains.Things I tried so far:Adding a good amount of high temperature grease bewtween oil seal and motor housing - only a marginal longer service time was achieved.Making a custom sleeve to go over the motor shaft that is glued onto it - worked well, or so I thought until I realised the silicone oil content in the oil slowly destroys all gues I tried so far.Adding a shim disk right on top of the bearing - this worked best so far and almost doubled the time until the motor failed. Downside is that it takes me over 4 hours to fully rebuild a motor just to get said dik in and I have no replacements anymore.It was suggested to me to set the back of the motor slightly higher than the front so the oil would not go anywhere near the bearing.This I tried to implement about 8 weeks ago and as the motor got noisy last week I took it all apart for a service again.Despite the motor mounted at an angle of about 5° the oil still creeped past the shim disk and into the bearing.So I did some simple tests with the hot oil and indeed it forms a slowly creeping film tha travels upwards on a shaft.I guess the rotation helps here as well to spread the drops around.And yes, last time I used "fully sealed" bearing with an build in cover and still it fails :(I would love to try something flexible but long lasting to seal the bearing against the rest.Something in the region of a rubbery stuff that can be applied like a sealant.But hard enough to survive a few weeks of shaft rotations.Are there any really sealed bearings available?Bearings that, for example would be fine working submerged in liquid without any liquid being able to enter?It is clearly a desing fault of the machine to make money through spare parts but that's not the point here.I can not replace the pump as it is an intergral part of other things attached.And not really that easy to find a pump capable of dealing with hot oil anyway.Is there any grease available that does not turn into a liquid at these high temps and would it be possible to get ito into a bearing?Running out of ideas here guys, so feel free to throw in whatever comes to mind even if it seems odd!I just need a way to keep highly viscous, boiling hot oil from entering a bearing ;)

Question by Downunder35m    |  last reply


Metal clay thread repair for 3d printer extruder head

Does anyone have experience with metal clay or 3d printers with a good way to fix the female slot on the extruder aluminium block

Question by benjaminjbarringer    |  last reply


How to earth (ground) a programmable timer in a metal box?

Hi, I am in the process of constructing a retro console timer for my 9yo grandson (his parents really). They only want the power to the console on a predetermined times. I found an idea on Instructables which is basically a programmable 7 day timer in a small (lockable) cash box. Question: there is no earth tab on the input side of the timer and I want to earth the box because it will contain 240v!! Is it as simple as wiring the wall plug with three core cable and attaching the spare earth wire to the inside wall of the metal box? Please advice. Thanks

Question by TN1946    |  last reply


Ultrasonic cavitation as way to create impossible alloys?

I played around with ultrasonics now for a while and noticed that when it comes to certain things then logic seems no longer to apply.In the normal household you might find some ultrasonic cleaner and that's about it.A few people might have some distance measuring device or sensor array somewhere.As far as the normal human is concerned that is more than enough ;)Playing with certain metals like Bismuth or Gallium is not only but also a nice way to create nice alloys that you can play with even more.Take a portable and simple hydrogen supply as an example.Just make an alloy with lots of aluminium and a small amount of gallium.Cut it into strips, blocks or grind into a powder if you dare.Either way you just add water in a sealed container and get lots of pure hydrogen.The waste product is aluminium oxide, which has additional uses.The gallium itself is not affected by the reaction and can be reused many times.However, with some metals things are just different.As you might know it is hard to impossible to create certain alloys and other wouldn't make any sense.For example an alloy made from Calcium and iron...One of the big problems with alloys is that you need to have both metals in a molten form, then mix them properly and hope it turns out as planned.And well, if the metals in question just on't want to combine we cheat by using slats as a flux for example or by blowing hydrogen through the molten mix to act as a sacrificial binder until the metal cools down.Through ultrasonic cavitation we can not only clean surface, the same effect also destroys cells as the power from the implosion and the intense heat is more than what a cell can handle.There are even tests now to determine how safe and effective it would be to sterilise hospital equippment.A few seconds in an ultrasonic bath would safe the hours in the autoclave...On an industrial scale ultrasonic vibrations are used to weld plastic parts - like the head and tail lights on modern cars or just sealed plastic housings of any kind.With all this in mind my experiments with ultrasonic soldering made me wonder...Science papers state that that for example ceramics are not actually soldered.Appearently it is again hydrogen bonds provided by the ceramic or trapped air inside that provide the means to stick permantly.There is also an effect based on the implosion of the cavitation bubble.Here the solder literally is shot at well aboce ultrsonic speeds onto the surface of the ceramic.Together with the vacuum effect the solder is then pushed into the tiniest of cracks and cavities.Surface tension and other effects finally prevent the solder from just flowing off like it would do if we use just heat.What it means is that there is no real soldering at all happening.In reality it is like millions of big hydraulic presses would push the molten metal onto the surface.Going back to the fun of Gallium with Aluminium....Aluminium does not really go to well with steel.And gallium does not that good with steel either.Melting an Aluminium-gallium alloy is quite simple.With an excess of Gallium in the mix it should be possible to add fine steel powder (steel, not iron!).Of course it would neither mix well nor really melt at these low temperatures.With ultrasoic cavitation however we could force the stuff to not only mix but also create the same effect as used by ultrasonic soldering.The additional metals and minerals in a steel alloy should hopefully prevent any unwanted reactions in the final step...If the steel powder is ine enough then the assimilation of the steel into the aluminium-gallium mix would result in the breakdown of the steel.Once cooled and hard again the big question what would happen if we let water attack it?In theory all aluminium would react to form aluminium oxide and aluminium hydroxide.The gallium again would not be affected and as it is also bound to the steel should form a nice gallium-steel alloy.But what hapens to the voids where the aluminium was???The alloy would either be only affected on the surface or through cavitation and time all aluminium would be transformed.In the best scenario we would get a steel-gallium sponge where the voids are filled with alumium oxide.Forging such a mix could result in a ceramic steel..... !?? ;)Imagine a safe...There is always forceful ways to get in.Like drilling or using a big angle grinder.The pro might use a magnesium torch rod though....The common approach to improve penetration resistance is by filling a space between the outside and inside walls of a safe.Whatever you can imagine that is nightmare for your tools can be used, like thick glass plates, hardened steel bits, carbide studs, concrete with glass fibres....But even diamond tipped tools would already struggle if the steel itself would contain high amounts of a hard ceramic like aluminium oxide.The remaining gallium would also cause very high friction and through this heat - which these tools really can't stand unless you can provide water cooling as well.With the right balance of aluminium and gallium most of the original properties the steel had can be preserved.Just and idea though....

Topic by Downunder35m  


Can you make an ultralight, foldable outdoor toilet seat from metal?

I’m planning a three-month kayaking trip, and my old rickety knees ain't what they used to be, so I'm hoping to find an ultralight, compact, foldable toilet seat with legs, preferably a lightweight metal, if that's possible. I need for it to be lightweight because I will have to carry all my gear around dams, and I need for it to be compact so it will fit in the hatch of a kayak with the rest of my gear. Space is very limited.Can anyone here make something like that? And if so, what is the cost? I'm suspecting it's going to be cost prohibitive, but it doesn't hurt to ask. I’ve seen children’s portable potty seats that quarter-fold, so I'm wondering if it would be possible to make something similar that could handle adult weight. Is there such a thing as a lightweight metal? Potential Specs: U-shaped. Small. Not full sized. Half-fold or quarter-fold. It can have gaps to avoid pinching. Sturdy legs that won’t splay out with heavy weight. Legs about 8 inches long. Somewhat contoured for comfort, if possible.Idea for legs:

Question by GoofyChickens    |  last reply


Solar laser?

So recently I've collected a couple 32" fresnel lenses from rear projection tv's and am curious how one( if possible) would collimate the light into a laser beam to cut materials. I've spent a few hours searching the web trying to find the information I am seeking. Even help with searching terms would be appreciated.

Topic by IamEdgar    |  last reply


Q: How to light up a float using arduino

Every year we make a float, up till now we used GU10 white lights to light it up. Now for this year i would like to use RGB led lights to do this and create an extra effect.To do this i am going to use an arduino uno to controle the lights, in order to controle the effects i would need some type of lightbulb which produces enough light and be controlled by the arduino preferably using a data line,It would be awesome if i could create the effects similar to a led strip, using lightbulbs over the entire float. Thx for ready my question and i hope you can help.

Question by PieterD29  


Italy not allowed to contests. Embarg?

Hi, I feel a bit disappointed about this... I used to partecipate in the past in a lot of contests in the past.I have a lot of coloured shirts at home, and a cool steel mug, won in some contests. It was nice partecipating. Is there an embarg now to Italy, as it seems we are not allowed anymore to enter contests?It was so cool, that's why I'm a bit sad.I found a few other thread, but unfortunately, I couldn't find an answer.Thanks.

Topic by prnet    |  last reply


Advanced, complicated folding-type hinges?

I'm working on converting a panel van into a perfect, optimal full-time living space. It needs a permanent bed which I want to make use of the otherwise wasted cab area (since I won't be driving and sleeping at the same time). When driving, I want it flat against the ceiling and to sleep I want it to fold down between the dash and the back of the seats - a cutout for the top if the steering wheel is fine.This involves moving it through a very specific path through space with a mechanism along the same lines as the folding rotation of a sofa bed. I would like to know what joints are available so that I can figure out the correct combination for the required movement but I can't even find the names of them. "Complex hinges" doesn't seem to bring up anything useful. Any suggestions?Thanks,Mike.

Question by ImmortalSoFar    |  last reply


3D printed combination lock anyone?

I am in the finnishing stages for a fully 3D printed dial combination lock, similar to what would be used on a safe.Unlike what you might find in other places there is no metal parts.No crappy amount of possible combinations either, 72 per dial dial...I took me a few weeks and quite some filament to get from a draft in Sketchup to something that actually works as planned.As it was more a training excersize in Sketchup for me I had the the following goals:1. Everything is 3D printed with as little afterwork as possible.2. All required springs are 3D printed as well as all other moving or stationary parts.3. Where otherwise fasteners or screws would be required only short leftovers of filament are used to keep the parts in place.Only exception for security reason is the mounts for the front dial and holder.These should be glued or screwed in place if the actual intention is to use it as a working lock.4. The lock shall not be pickable by means of felling, hearing or just trying out random combinations.The above points I got sorted to my satisfaction.However I would like some feedback from trustworth beta testers on the general design and functionality.It is one thing to design something that just works but a bit harder to design it the best possible way.Another big drawback currently is that it seems to be impossible to export proper STL files in Sketchup once they reach a certain complexity.Automatic services or programs to fix these issues result in drastically increased file sizes.Some of the problematic part go from just under 200kb to over 10mb after "fixed".This is not acceptable for me and I have to work on fixing this issue.Most slicers correct these tiny errors automatically and produce a correct print but I prefer proper STL files of small size and complexity over inflated ones that I then need to double check for a long anyways.A few details need changing as my tests showed that you can't drive up print details to a certain level without risking to be unable to mount the parts without further sanding.I hope to have a full set of clean STL files ready for testing by the end of this month.If you are interested to try it out and maybe contribute to an improved version your time will be valued by being mentioned as a beta tester for the upcoming Instructable.Be warned though!This is not for the faint of heart and certainly not for someone who does not know how to calibrate all aspects of the 3D printer involved.The lock also uses quite a bit of filament, currently around 37m all up but I am working on reducing this by replacing solid parts with framework instead where possible.The assembly can be time consuming and frustrating if you realise only once finnished that you have certain parts in the wrong position or orientation.But as said, my goals were not really on making it as easy as possible LOLWhy desing a lock that is neither secure enough nor free of metal parts if there is other options ;)If you happen to work with an Inventor and PLA on the left side then I can provide ready to go .gx files if prefered.They would then be already confirmed to be working and usable on one of my printers.Let me know what you think ...

Topic by Downunder35m    |  last reply


SAMSUNG LED TV INTO A DAYLIGHT PANEL FOR WINDOWLESS ROOM - How to power it?

Hi, I bought a brand new Samsung TV with a broken screen in an auction. I have removed the panel and all modules (not needed) but can anybody tell me how to power the LEDs with a 12v (?) power source in order to make a daylight panel for a windowless room. Picture shows the LED units.Thank you in anticipation.

Topic by TN1946    |  last reply


Delta sidekick saw with broken safety guard? Answered

We have a Delta sidekick 10inch motorized miter box. With a broken safety guard. This hadn't been used very much when it broke and we were unable to buy a spare. We have started using it again, carefully , but I would feel a lot happier if it had a guard. Does anyone know if another make of guard will fit this  saw. Many thanks

Question by Kiwi girl    |  last reply


Design criteria for Ibles....

I just noticed that we have now standards that need to be followed if you want to publish an Instructable.Standards are good but not so much if the editing options for an Ible are at a standard from the year 2000.If I had fun designing something as simple as whistle that shall be created in a 3D printer: Then why would I need images showing how I designed it?Or why would I need images for the print settings or idea behind it?A community goes both ways!The editing tools are still sub standard and the images handling is a bad joke.If I need to explain something complex with the aid of images then of course I want the images in the right spot with the text - ever thought about this or visited website that offer similar after the year 2000?Usability is not just a means to provide the same look on all browsers and devices or to be able to use the most basic way to convert a website into a PDF.Usability is also for those who create it but that part seems to be lost for years now no matter how many times people ask, suggest or comment on the problem.I have no problem making my creations available elsewhere if that is the only way out here.If you want people to create proper Instructables then for crying out loud give them the means to do so!And fix the damn category selection bogus when posting in the community section.Has no use for years but why bother to fix it....Before you guys force people doing things your way only you should consider in what times we are and how proper usability would benefit this site....

Topic by Downunder35m    |  last reply


Does 3D printing require a release agent?

we are interested in 3d printing. so we want to know, i 3d printing process, do we need mold release agent?

Question by SAKURAI Mold    |  last reply


WATERING SYSTEM - INTRODUCTION

Bonjour, j'ai terminé le code du projet du système d'arrosage. Le logiciel m'indique une erreur que voici : " PWM.h : No Such file or directory" (ligne 23) Quelqu'un peux m'aider SVP merci.

Topic by J-LG  


MSZ-DM35VA air-conditioner wifi module

Dear All,Is there any way to make my Mitsubishi Electric air-conditioner WIFI controller? I would like to control if via my android phone. I was looking around and there is an official WIFI module from the manufacturer but the price of it is just horrendous. They are asking nearly 100 USD for that piece of....module. This is the one: http://www.mitsubishielectric.com.au/wifi/wifi-con...I was looking around on ebay too and there are numerous amount of controllers which makes your air-conditioner "smart", but those are connecting via infrared, so you have to connect it to your PC or laptop via micro USB, connect it to your network, and then it communicates with the air-conditioner via infrared, but this is kinda hassle, since you have to position it exactly the way so the signal reaches the front "part" of the air-conditioner...it would be awesome if there would be a way which is working like the manufacturer's one, and doesn't cost a 100 USD.Waiting for every suggestions.Thank you.:Janos

Question by JánosO