Workshop Topics


Import duty for Canada prizes

Morning,I have just received an invoice for $18 from FEDEX for customs clearance into Canada for the Instructables prize pack (mug and stickers). This is a first for me and was wondering if any other contest winners have similar feedback or if there was something that I should be doing with FEDEX.Cheers

Topic by mattaw    |  last reply


HELP FOR IDEAS!!!

I would like to see a category "how to make things that I would use".e.g. A glove that would help control tremors? I could probably do this but at 75+ years, I gust shake to much.Did you know that if I pick up a cup of coffee without looking at it, I never spill a drop. neido.castel@gmail.com

Topic by NEIDO    |  last reply


What would happen if you apply ultrasonic levitation to water ?

While tinkering with my latest creation, a 6L ultrasonic cleaner, I started to wonder...When using these actuators for cutting or welding purposes a horn is used to provide some amplification of the movement and to get the right shape for the tool.Oil seals, like used on drive shafts are no problem when attached to a node of the horn.And if you ever placed a small diameter horn into some water to test it you know the storm it creates.But what would happen if two horns are used on opposing sides of the container?At the correct distance the same static nodes like we see when levitating in air should appear.What would happen to the tiny cavition bubbles that shoot away from the horn?Am I correct to assume that, at least in theory, it should be possible to create a stable vacuum bubble between the horns?

Question by Downunder35m    |  last reply


Identify tool

Not sure what this tool is, gift from grandpa. Looks like some kind if drill press but what is it called & how do you use it.

Question by Rctcjc28    |  last reply


How does one with no experience learn to work on and fix up cars? Where to start?

I am a girl and I have been interested in fixing cars for a while. Quite a few guys at my school seem to know how to fix cars up, but they had to start somewhere, right? Often, I think peoples' fathers help them out, but my own father knows nothing about cars, nor shows any interest in helping me. If anyone has tips on where I could start, perhaps I could find a shop where people would help me? Or do any car co-ops exist? I know there is such a place for bicycles where I live. Any tips would be great! I am enthusiastic and have some background with fixing bicycles and doing wood and metal projects, so I'm not mechanically clueless. I am mostly interested in old cars, but anything to start would be alright. I have browsed Craigslist for cars and found a few I could afford. On that note, I have a teen's level of funding, so I could find something, but tips on making the best of my money when going about fixing up an old car would also be appreciated (especially considering the cost for parts and such). Any tips on where and how to start are what I am looking fore. Thank you!

Question by toolgal29    |  last reply


Could a 3D printed sealed speaker enclosure printed as separate parts be bonded together well enough to function properly?

I want to try 3D printing a sealed speaker enclosure but the size of enclosure that i need will be 4 times the size of my printers build space so if i divide the enclosure model into quarters what would be my best method of bonding those pieces together into a container that will be mostly airtight once the speakers are in place?

Question by ambientvoid    |  last reply


quick two wires diagram,4 wires in one blk,green,white,red,other red, blk, cell phone?what goes together?

4 wires too 2 wires how do you put them together Blk,red,green,white the other blk  ,red to get a connection for cell phone charger have to use what i have right now

Question by monsterhung    |  last reply


Terrible tragedy. Grant Thompson has passed away.

I don't know how to post this, but maker extraordinaire, Grant Thompson, The King of Random, has passed away from a paragliding accident.I, personally, have learned so much from his wealth of knowledge over the years. A friend showed me a video of his 5 years ago and for years, I remember waiting anxiously for him to post a new video.One of the first people and possibly the most influential people in the online maker community, all around the world. Thank you Grant. Terrible tragedy.RIP.

Topic by Yonatan24    |  last reply


I want to put casters on a black pipe table base. Want clean look without a wood base or welding. Answered

Has anyone added casters to black pipe furniture or shelving?  Ideally this would be without having to add on a wood base for a good clean look.  Welding is also out of my skill set. 

Question by fancyjo    |  last reply


Compressing hydrogen? Answered

I have a hydrogen generator and use the gas as i make it at the moment. I want to try compressing it, the issue is the gas is really a combination of pure oxygen and hydrogen in the perfect explosive mix. If i have flame aresters on all my pipes and have it well earthed as well as not using steel parts in the compressor so there is no chance of static or sparks from steel, will it be relatively safe to try compressing this into a cylinder? or am i insane to try this???

Question by benmurton    |  last reply


Traditionally built furniture - maybe as a contest?

I saw a quite old "home improvement" show from the 80's the other day and was stunned to remember how much we gained in ready to use parts and tools these days.A part of the show focussed on a custom made dining table with a matching cupboard/sideboard.The interesting thing here was that no nails or screw were used.Tongue and groove systems, smart notches and such were used instead with just wood glue.I admit the professionals made it look easy to use a hand planer and chisels to carve out some ornaments and details but the result speaks for itself IMHO.We now mainly use power tools, ready to go parts like metal angles, easy screw systems and so on.Wouldn't it be great to have a contest where people actually build wooden furniture, even if it is just a chair, by using traditional tools only?To misuse the term call it "Organic furniture" ;)

Topic by Downunder35m    |  last reply


Author Spotlight Interviews: Nominate an author!

We recently began a new round of author spotlight interviews. For the first interview, we chose to reach out and chat with Nikus, who recently won the grand prize in this year's Epilog Contest. You can check out our interview here: Author Spotlight: NikusThese interviews are a great way to learn a little more about individual contributing authors here on Instructables, and see what makes them tick! Is there someone who is an active author that you'd be interested in learning more about? Now's your chance to nominate a fellow author. There are no set requirements to be eligible to be nominated. But generally, we're looking for authors who've shared a good handful of high-quality projects, which made a notable splash within the Instructables community.And yes, if you're feeling bold, you may certainly nominate yourself! : )

Topic by seamster    |  last reply


Maker Collaboration with Companies, in Prototyping Activities in Product Development | Survey, Thesis

I would greatly appreciate it if you could find the time to fill in my survey, here: https://forms.gle/YHHbEzEy9NGQVFJGAI'm studying my masters, in Design and Innovation, at The Technical University of Denmark. The thesis project is to develop a prototyping tool to help companies engage with the maker movement, in their prototyping activities. I'm trying to identify how makers can benefit companies in collaboration and vise versa. To put it bluntly, we know makers (and I include myself as a 'maker') are much better at producing low cost solutions to novel problems using limited resources, than most companies. I'm trying to make a tool which will help facilitate collaboration and co-design between product developers and makers, in a way that's mutually beneficial. The survey should only take 10-15 minutes maximum. I would also appreciate it if you could share it among your various maker communities and friends who call themselves makers! Many many thanks in advance.

Topic by AlexK350  


Stylo 4 stuck screen pixels

My stylo 4 has a screen that has nothing but multi colored dots.looked into it and was told the pixels that make up the screen were stuck or broken.or that it has a virus.completely useless phone.can anybody tell me what to do.i ran a program that zapped the screen with multi colored flashes and patterns trying to unstick the pixels

Question by jimf123  


What is this tool!??

Hey friends, what is this tool?? I think a part of it may have broken off the top. I really need to know as it was left by a burglar who broke into our house. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!! :)

Question by maddyjames1234    |  last reply


can I reverse the cycle on a refrigerator to warm the inside?

So I have just built (mostly) a workshop shed, and it's about time to move in work benches, tables, small appliances, etc.  I want to be able to move some temperature sensitive stuff out, too, and I don't want them to get too cold. I'm probably over thinking this and there's a simpler solution, but a refrigerator is already a well sealed, temperature controlled, shelf. If I could get a second hand or scratch and dent, could the condenser be put on the inside to make a "warm box" for winter?  

Question by harlyquin    |  last reply


Another tool question.

Hi all,Is there anyone who can tell me what this antique tool is used for. It is spring loaded and adjustable and maybe a clamp to hold a mitre join when fixing the two pieces together. Well at least that's what i think it may have been used for.No brand for me to Google.

Question by AussieAlf    |  last reply


Anyone know how to make a PVC ratchet noisemaker?...With a gear motor?

Are there instructables here, or anyone who knows how I could make a ratchet noisemaker, & ad a gear driven hobby motor to it?I like to make a ratchet noisemaker for a toy machine gun project I'm doing. I don't know how to make it out of wood, & don't have the right tools ether. I can make it out of heat flatten PVC pipe.

Question by elkaddalek    |  last reply


Work table/bench for working on lawn mowers

I've searched here and elsewhere without any luck. I'm looking for a design for making a table/bench about 20 inches high for use in working on lawnmowers and other items that require a lot of bending or stooping to reach. I'm nearly 80yo and have a pinched sciatic nerve in my back. I can't stoop or kneel (replaced joints in knees and hip) for any length of time without painful consequences. I'd use a stool or chair while working.In the vein of not re-inventing the wheel, I thought I'd ask around before attempting my own design. Two important features are 1) a ramp or hoist to raise and lower the mower/whatever; 2) a lazy susan type table top. I don't have a welder so the thing would have to be made of wood.Thanks,cb21

Question by Cueball21    |  last reply


Removing rust from saw blades and drill bits?

I have a couple dozen drill bits and circular saw bits that have light to moderate surface rust but are in otherwise very good condition.  Is there something I can use on them to remove the rust without having to sand, scrub, or file each tooth of each blade indivigualy?  Some product that I can wipe on, spray on, or let them soak overnight that will remove the rust without dulling the blades?

Question by etcmn    |  last reply


Do you know what these tools are used for? Answered

Do you know what both of these are used for? Unrelated.This weird handheld boring tool, and what this double-sided blade is used for - I got these and am not sure what they're for.Thanks!

Question by Yonatan24    |  last reply


Help to Dismantle a bench Vice

Hi I have a bench vice which I am trying to dismantle. I am having trouble getting it apart, when fully wound out it stops, I think because there is a pin visible from the back which turns with the thread. Would this prevent the thread coming right out? There is also a spring visible from the handle end, hopefully this information may help someone identify the type of vice I am dealing with. The problem with the vice is that it is very hard to turn the handle, I hope someone will know why it is stiff to turn and the possible cause and fix for the problem.Thanks, Peter

Question by PeterC30    |  last reply


Metal contest

I have recently completed two metal projects and didnot document them. Are they eligible for the the contest?

Question by DuckTurd    |  last reply


HELP, CNC 5 AXIS

Hello all well,I live in Brazil, I am an artisan! I have questions about making one (Homemade 5 axis CNC) for sculpting Styrofoam or clay.An example :https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nITLI_WcnuM&feature;=youtu.beAnother example :https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PhexbkJpvWA&feature;=youtu.beI need 5 axis CNC. I searched the internet and found no example, no tutorial. Can anyone help me?

Topic by brunoovox    |  last reply



Sharpening a concave blades like Kukri or similar

Every now and then you have someone approaching with the odd job.This time it was in the form of an old Kukri / Gurkha knife.Wasn't expecting this when I was asked a few days ago if I could sharpen some old knife so it can be used for camping.The knife had a few marks from hitting hard stuff or maybe the occasional nail.But the worst was that for as long as guy had that knife it was only "sharpened" using a belt sander.You know, these tiny machines advertised to give your (kitchen-) knife the perfect edge.We could now argue about the pros and cons of having a knife edge that is literally rounded.But once it was done so many times that the edge really looks rounded it becomes obvious why this method only works for thinner blades.Adding to the problem was the fact that the belt used was just over 1.5cm wide.Appereantly so it is easier to do the concave part of the blade.Lets just say lengthwise it looked like someone created a wave pattern LOLThere was nothing "straight" on this nice blade anymore.Now, if you look up how to properly sharpen thise Kukri knifes then you can find all sorts of really useful tips.One I really likes was to use some eraser and toglue sandpaper on it.Small and flexible enough to cause minimal damages to the curve towards the handle.Another nice one is to use half round diamond file, preferable of a finer grit in the 600 region.Should work fine - if you plan to invest an awful lot of money on such a file.I however like things quite often done the old fashioned way.The oldest trick in the book....Whether you are using chisels and work on wood, just love to keep your knifes sharp or go on long camping or hiking trips - sharp knifes and tools just become your thing.The main thing everyone tells you is a super flat surface for whatever is supposed to sharpen your blade.For the normal stuff that is fine and good and you only need to flatten out your stones every now and then.But what about these odd jobs?Imagine you would need to sharpen a long paper cutting blade on some machine.Might be over a meter long and it has to stay with a perfectly straight edge.Back in the day this task was not done with some very expensive stone of large size....Instead sandpaper of various grit was used on a flat steel surface.I actually prefer a small pane of glass and tape my sandpaper on it.Hard to find anything finer than 1000 or 2000 grit but you might be surprised how well this stuff polishes onces clogged up a bit.Its all about the right level of wetness...Anyways, for our Kukri in question I decided it is time to do the same but in a way that does not harm the blade, constantly cut into the eraser and still is solid and "flat".If you still work with a sickle then you already know where I am going here ;)I used a small diameter spray can as my surface to hold the sandpaper.Of course a piece of PVC pipe, round wood or similar would warok the same way....Sticky tape does not work well with sandpaper unless you use double sided stuff.But it is enough to wrap one round on the top and one on the bottom of the sandpaper on the can to hold in place.So much for the basics....If you know how to sharpen a knife then you also know that there is a prefered way of doing it.Depending on the blade and stone in question you literally try to cut a thin slice out of the stone with every stroke.Either stright or with a cutting motion.This works fine with sandpaper on a flat surface, not so much however on a round surface.Try it and you see how you cut off the sand from the paper and constantly ruin your edge.The only way to do it is to move with the edge.You start from the heel and stroke to the tip.The can is used likea sharpening rod and shall always stay at a 90° to the curve of the blade.Takes a bit of practice to find the right grip to hold the blade while moving and twisting the can but well worth it.The rounded surface only allows for a very thin area of the sandpaper to work on the edge.I started with 120 grit!!!It left a trail of destruction on the edge, at least in the rounded up section....Once I only had a very thin bit left on the edge from the old sharpening I switched to 240 grit until a flat edge formed.As the Kukri was a disaster this process still tok over 4 hours to complete.That blade was properly hardened too...The start of the finnishing was done by jump right to 600 grit paper.The first can was just slightly smaller in diameter than the concave bend in the blade - perfect to smooth out those nasty bumps.But with a burr forming now on the edge and minor mishap with angle of the can towards the curve of the blade would mean cutting into the can while sharpening the concave bit.Meant I used my emergency insect repellant can as I did not like the idea of hoping my pepper shaker would start leaking while sharpening ;)If you blade is not too damaged you can of course start right away with a smaller diameter.The process is the same as before.Move along the blade and keep the can at the 90° angle towards the curve.Once you feel a burr forming on the side turn over until you have a bur on the previous side again.Repeat until all the marks from the coarser grit are gone and the edge has a uniform shine.Switch to a finer grit and go as high as you can here.I had to stop at 1000 grit as my supply of 2000 and 4000 grit is out.Hints and tricks along the way....It really helps to do this sandpaper sharpening under running water.The paper won't clog up, you won't risk a losse grain making really deep marks...But on a bad blade this can take several hours and would do it with a small aquarium pump or so and some gloves.A fine but stiff brush and soapy water however do wonders to clean up used sandpaper!I prefer to use these re-used pieces before switching to a finer grit.In most cases they are already finer than the next grit and create a nice polish that makes the visual confirmation of your right angle and angle of attack easy.A kukri is a working blade!It is mot meant to make fish filet or shave you legs.It is somewhere between axe, big bowie knife and hatchet.That mean if you would dare to give a 8° angle either side of the edge you would have a pretty damn wide edge...Stick to the original in width but keep it nice and flat.It is good compromise between cutting sharpness and durability when for example chopping wood for your camp fire.DO NOT USE A BELT SANDER!!I said it before but have to repeat it again as there is people using a big belt sander with enough free space to add a set of wheel that creat the curve I got from my spray can.The guys in India that make these knife do this blind folded....It takes years of practise to get the steady hand required not to cut through the belt.The beginners start in reverse, meaning the belt runs towards the edge.These guys only to the basic forming of the edge with really coarse grit.Basically to remove the marks from the forging.After that the pro takes over the blades and he has the belt running towards the edge!If you are silly enough to try it at home be prepared to have the belt flying in your face very violently!!The reverse sanding can't be used to finnish a blade as you never get a proper sharpness and flatness right on the edge.So just stick to manual and take an hour or so longer but then be able to enjoy a cold drink when done.You need surprisingly little sandpaper in terms of clogging up and getting useless until you get to the finer grits.If you use a wooden dowel or similar then make it a bit longer and add strips about 6cm wide of sandpaper.This way you have all the grits you need in one place and can take them with you to keep your blade sharp ;)If you glue it onto the stick it is also quite easy to give it quick brush clean when done.The really tricky part starts from about 800 grit onwards.Every mishap on the concave part can mean damage to your paper or to your edge.When using stone most beginner think that using a lot of pressure is a good way to remove the material quickly.In reality however it is just a sure way to wobble the blade over the stone, especially if the blade is not fully straight.Sandpaper can be more aggressive than your stones as in our case you only work with a little area and every time you turn the can only a little bit you have a fresh piece of paper working instead of a slurry building up.This mean you really do't need much pressure at all.It is the repetition, not the pressure that gives you the edge if you don't mind the pun here. ;)For a real working knife stopping at 1000 grit once you do single strokes either side of the blade is sufficient.The tiny burr left will disappear quickly during use and the Chakmak can be used for a quick refurbishing after every longer use.Should mean you only need to get the sandpaper out once you edge actually started to get blunt again.The final stroke....There are those people that don't have a kukri to go camping...Some people like to collect them.Restoring an old kukri can be done like with any other knife.That is until you want a razo sharp edge that is also highly polished.This is quite possible with the original edge width on the kukri.But of course you can only go so far with sandpaper....Modern technolgy provides us with the solution in several options.Firstly we have the ceramic sharpening rods.Unless you can do with kitchen variety thickness you need to pay a lot of money.A short 8cm diameter rod can set you back over 100 bucks with ease.Especially if you want something that provides a mirror like finnish.And alternative that is often available relatively cheap is a ruby rod.They can often be found with slight damages that make them useless for laser applications.Even burnt out rods are still fine as long as they are not cracked.It is quite hard (literally) to give them a satin finnish but I found that good quality sandpaper is sometimes capable of doing it.I like one side smooth and the other half of the rod with a satin finnish to prepare the edge.On the budget there is quality wet and dry sandpaper as commonly used in paintshops.If used dry the finer grits tend to clog up on such a wide edge.Once you have a piece of 1000 or finer grit that is fully clogged up you can use to give the edge a final polish.With this you won't even need a leather strop anymore but as said it takes a lot of practise so you won't cut the paper in the concave area.The steel rod....If you happen to have a hardened steel rod, like from a motion rail, small drive shaft or a big drill then give it a try.When using a drill:Of course use the end of the drill, not the working part ;)Also make sure it really is motth as any burr from the chuck or such will cause deep scratches on your blade.If it starts to feel sticky after a few good stroke you know the drill method is working.If it continues to feel very smooth and you don't see any polishing effect at all if tried on a small area only then you blade is of really good quality.But then again you would have confirmed that already by the ongoing swearing during the endless hours trying to remove some material from the edge...A word of advise for the first time user of a kukri:Although a good kukri is hard to damage without hitting a stone or metal, you can make blunt very quickly.It is top heavy blade and requires a steady hand when working on other things than meat.Chopping into some wood and letting the blade slip can deform your edge.A little mishap can be fixed with chakmak but not if hit hardwood badly a couple of times.And tempting as might be to use it as a small hatchet or axe to split your kindling:Never hold a piece of wood and then hack into it from the top with your kukri!Not only can you miss the wood and hit your hand, the wood can also split far easier or in unexpected directions!If the kurki is sharp you then have a good chance to loose a finger or two!

Topic by Downunder35m  


Home improvement/ workshop?. I'm stumped,

Trying to make storage shelving in corner of my tiny Bathroom. I'm stumped on how to fasten to wall. How to properly toenail into corner stud or use brackets/anchor screws? fear of to much weight. Here's a photo of my bath & photo of what I'm trying to create. Thinking thinner wood. Glass shelves are going up on larger walls. Any advice? Thanks

Question by dragontrac    |  last reply


What is this tool?

I ran across this in a toolbox I inherited and have no idea what it does? Anybody have any familiarity with this thing?

Question by DrTurtle    |  last reply


Oven cleaner on alloy rims

Years of filth on my Suzuki's rims. Just sprayed it on left for 15 minutes then washed it off!! Be careful obviously it caustic. Eyes and skin protection advised.

Topic by grahambettinelli    |  last reply


3D Viewer

Instructables Team - I don't know when it was changed but the "View in 3D" upgrade works very well. I especially like the section analysis and exploded views.Makers - if you are like me and enjoy showing your work in CAD, please consider dropping STP/STEP files into your instructable.

Topic by mtairymd    |  last reply


Feature request for the community section

Might be just me but I would appreciate to have the name or who made the last posting in a topic.Having the date is one thing but a name would allow to see if the thread starter replied or someone else.

Topic by Downunder35m  


Smoke

Hello, I have an e-cigarette pushed into the cushion of a Whoopee cushion, and taped to tubing that runs under a black matt. A whole in the matt allows smoke to rise from the matt when I step on Whoopee Cushion. Problem Whoopee Cushion pops and doesn't give enough smoke to be impressive. Would you know of a solution like some kind of mini smoke machine that will give the smoke we need? Below attached is photo of Whoopee Cushion, e-cigarette, and tubing running under matt. Thank you, Alexander

Topic by AlexanderS325    |  last reply


Help identify a tool/tool part.

Can someone please help me identify what tool this is or what tool this is a part of? Thank you.

Question by Magicdd1    |  last reply


Still don't understand why.....

I still don't understand why it takes me 6 clicks to get to the "recent" page. If I'm logged in and click on the "feed" button, it usually takes me to an error page (but once in a while it actually works). I have to log out, then log in again before attempting to access my feed. I've tried clearing the cache, cookies, and history first, but no luck. I use the latest version of the chrome browser. I haven't tried this with any other browser. I'm not interested in switching to another browser just to access one website. I've experienced this on both windows 7 and the chrome o/s. Simply clicking on the feed button seems like it should be just a simple thing.Once again I've placed this comment in the "workshop" category and "woodworking" channel, since there is no category or channel for feedback on website issues.

Topic by knife141    |  last reply


Honda NSR 500 engine

Hi i am looking to build a race bike and i want to use a Honda nsr 500 V4 engine for its pure power but i am having hard times finding that engine can someone help me please? Thankyou Darren

Topic by dazzer730    |  last reply


Recent Feed Page

We have heard your feedback loud and clear, and we will be bringing back an easy way to see all recently published instructables. This requires some dev time because we changed things under the hood and need to do a little work to re-create this page. We hope to have it back shortly.We appreciate your patience as we continue refining the site after this release.Update:The recent feed has been released and can be found at this link:https://www.instructables.com/feed/recent/You can also find a link to it on your feed page.

Topic by randofo    |  last reply


Advice sought on how to make Plastic mould

I’m trying to repair a folding camping bed. See picsIt has a number of feet and other blocks made of some form of HDPE or similar. I want to recreate these blocks. How can I do so? The material needs to be rigid but not brittle.I can find plaster or gel to make a mould but what material should I use? Is there some sort of binary mixture such as a flexible filler ?I have access to basic tools and power tools but not a lathe nor 3D printingAnother option is to buy a block of HDPE and drill and carve the holes, but where to buy the block (in UK)?

Question by big-bill3    |  last reply


Vacuum pump

Hi fellow iblershas anyone ever made a vacuum pump for a vacuum chamber out of an aquarium air pump before? Does it pull a good enough vacuum if you modify it? please respond someone. Thanks

Question by Disasterific    |  last reply


D.i.y. (plastic) nuts (for any kind of thread)

For emergencies or simple application: how to make your own nuts out of (p.e.t.)-plastic bottles:take a bottle (#1 plastic, preferably smooth, w/o imprinted patterns or design etc) > cut off bottom and neck > start cutting (scissors) > the resulting ´tube´ into a consistent (width, depending on desired usage), slightly diagonally, thus sort of ´peeling´ it > wrap the strip around the screw/threaded-part/etc you need the nut for twice (for a start) > ´melt´ the edges of the wrapped part = joining them (i use a little solder-iron) > this way the wrapped beginning of the strip wont come loose > ´brush´ with the solder-iron (or whatever other source of heat) over the wrapped part (w/o) burning holes in it > this causes the plastic to shrink and press down into the thread and adopt its shape > once set keep doing more wraps of the rest of the strip until you reach a desired diameter > now, again, join the edges of the wrap with heat, and afterwards brush again over the outside of the created ´nut´, so that the plastic shrinks down & compacts > after having cooled off: unscrew the ´nut´ with pliers > ready for useps this is just a simple sketch. got no camera to take photos. sorry. so, please, ask whatever if you got any question. and any kind of feedback is more than welcome. bowing.

Topic by la xerra    |  last reply


50cc longjia lj50qt 3-l wiring fault?

My sons Chinese moped when switched on will show the fuel gauge level and indicators work, but once he set off moving they fail and when he stops again they work ok. does anyone have any suggestions where I can pin point the fault or general area I need to be looking for the problems. I can fix most things but wiring is my weakness. 

Question by MichealH12    |  last reply


So you wanna make Samus Aran's arm cannon eh?

Alright so I've decided this year for Halloween I want to be glorious Samus in her original suit glory. I'm just in the planning and blue print phase now. The bulk of the costume is going to be Eva foam. A stationary arm canon is cool and all, but what if I could get it to open up on the ends when i push a button? How cool would that be?I won't need a really beefy motor to move foam, and hopefully that motor wont require a huge power source, something that will fit inside the arm cannon somewhere.I can't find any video of HOW exactly the arm cannon opens up and functions but from this picture it could either A. opens up where the 4 outside plates separate from the main cannon to better reveal the pew pew part, this would require something to push out all four plates at the same time from the main cannon at a fixed distance. Not very much maybe half inch to an inch and be able to retract back flush against the cannon.B. the four plates simply rotate on a fixed axis.Ive crudely drawn what I would like the arm to do so you can see what I'm talking about.I've never dealt with motors before but I've seen amazing cosplays that have moving parts so I know it's possible. I'm more than willing to learn I just need to be pointed in the right direction.Any help with how to go about this would be greatly appreciated! :)

Question by MeonahH    |  last reply


Down loweing photos

How come when I try to down lowed an Instructables I don't get the Photos?Thanks

Topic by woodie1949    |  last reply


Where is the induction kettle or hot water system?

No modern kitchen these days is complete without at least a single induction cooktop.Convient to even place on the table to keep things warm but also nice to have 4 or 6 "hotplates" to cook on that are actually not getting hot at all.When it comes to efficiency induction cooking tops all others as no heat is wasted.Which brings me to the point...A single cooktop goes now often for well under 50 bucks.Although the base might end up slightly higher than a normal kettle I fail to see why we don't have induction kettles in our kitchen.Why wait 12 minutes to have the thing boil if you can do it cheaper and faster?Way more convinient too as there is no pesky contacts and heating elements anymore, no failure due to leaks either...But what really got me wondering is the hot water systems or heating options like prefered in Europe.Here you have a central "boiler" so to say and water circulates through valves into finned radiators, usually located under windows.We have oil filled radiators of this kind as free standing units that are now being phased out because they waste too much energy with their heating elements.Same story for just hot water :(On demand systems are getting more popular now outside Europe but still the common solution is to have a few hundret liters of water in a tank that is kept hot no matter how much of it we use.Be is gas or electric both types have their drawbacks and to get ahead of the corrosion that always kills them we now opt for expensive stainless steel tanks...Using induction it would be very easy to have a fully sealed tank and to actually only heat what needs to be heated without wasting too much energy.The "heating" element could be just a steel plate inside the tank with no connections to the outside.The gap between wall and element doubles to make the water circulate.And changing from a fixed timer to a temperatur control system to turn the induction element on and off is not hard either.Do you have an induction based hot water system, heater or maybe kettle already?Would love to see it...

Topic by Downunder35m    |  last reply


Volume of gas from given weight of dry ice?

I'm rusty on basic chem. specifically, molarity, molecular weight... Dry ice, frozen CO2 is sold by the pound. I'd like to know by working formulas, how much volume a pound of dry ice will fill once it returns to gas. Carbon has molecular weight ~ 12.  Oxygen ~16.  But I don't recall what those numbers represent. One mole of gas occupies 22.4 liters, but how much does a mole of CO2 weigh?

Topic by Toga_Dan    |  last reply


LSHV FAN

Has anyone attempted to make a large Low Speed High Velocity Warehouse Ceiling Fan?

Topic by darrinbaker    |  last reply


can i fly a very light aircraft with a small lawn mower engine?

I am trying to build an enclosed ultralight aircraft similar to the Cri-Cri made by michael colomban. I think i can make it around 100 or 150 pounds. I have an engine that is somewhere between five and ten horse power. i could possibly get another one of relatively the same amount of power. i have read about the DA-11 made by leeon davis that ran on an 18 hp engine, but is there a way to calculate weight vs. hp so i can be sure it will fly? (;  

Question by elliotstewfus    |  last reply


How do I remove a stuck water hose from the faucet?

The housing around the hose seems "frozen" to the faucet.  I've tried WD40 and even a plubmers wrench but still no movement.  Any assistance short of call the plumber is appreciated.

Question by mvv1    |  last reply


​HELP! Looking for mechanical engineering advice in building a multiplier/compounding gearbox for a hand crank siren project

HELP! I have a project I'm working on that involves making a hand cranked mini air-raid siren utilizing a 12v generator and a 12v siren. I've done a proof of concept rig where I direct wired the siren to the generator and then used a drill to generate enough RPM on the shaft to get the noise I want. Problem is, I'd like to make this entirely manual and will be adding a crank handle once I get the housing built...which means, I need a way to seriously up my RPM. I've done research into building multiplier gear boxes and compound gear trains and pinions and everything in between, but am going to confess that while I'm obsessed with DIY projects, this one is exceeding my engineering knowledge. I am at a loss for how best to approach this build. What ratio would you suggest? 40:1? 50:1? Does anyone have experience building gear boxes that would be ok emailing me with their advice? The input for my generator is a 20 tooth gear (please don't laugh if I'm totally messing up all the nomenclature...most of my life experience comes from writing and baking and a very short (failed) stint as an EE...this is a totally new world for me.) and I got this information from another sub: it’s a 3600 rpm motor so 60/sec. I think the fastest I would want to crank is 2/sec, so, 30:1 gear box sounds about right. With a nice long crank handle a 50:1 should also work nicely. 10:1 is too slow. Ideally (and this might be where it gets really tricky) I'd like it to all fit into a space that's about 5"X3"X3, not including the siren (I can run that further out, using the leads).I'm attaching a photo of the original proof of concept wire up that I did...and don't worry, I know there are exposed wires, I fully plan on isolating the wires, insulating the whole thing and installing the proper resistors. https://imgur.com/a/MaAR2PQ Here is a link to the generator: https://ebay.us/zgAoDQHere is a link to the siren: https://ebay.us/fEgahDThank you in advance!

Question by Tye Rannosaurus    |  last reply


Replacing motor in mobility scooter?

Hey all, I have a mobility scooter that I use for travel(caravaning among other). It's an Eloped Travel XL(40 kg or 88 lbs, 24V 22Ah battery), and I think it's only available in Sweden, but there are similar models all over the world.My scooter has got a 180w, 24v motor on a transaxle with integrated gearbox. The more I use it, the more frustrated I get. It's slow, 4mph/7 km/h, but worse, it really struggles uphill and sometimes it feels like its gonna stop all together. I've changed the batteries, with no improvement. It's not overheating. My guess is that it's just to weak. It might be ok to use when going to the shop or on flat surfaces, but not on gravel or grass.Anyway, I would like to replace the motor with a more powerful one, 350w or even 500w. The problem is that there isn't any compatible motors out there, so I'm guessing I'll have to replace the hole axle. I've been looking at these common China made electric motors that come in a range of sizes, have no idea about the quality though. Otherwise, maybe a powerful RC engine would work? I have no idea really, where to begin. Money is a concern unfortunately, otherwise I could buy a new transaxle or even a new, better scooter. Any ideas or help would be very appreciated! I'm quite handy but have never worked with these kind of parts before. How to pick the right sprockets, should I use chain or belt drive and so on.

Question by Alex Lillybear    |  last reply


Control Amperage

Hiyas, I was wondering if you could point me in the right direction. I was wanting to build or buy something I could control Amp input. The system would be 12 -14 v dc and I want to be able to limit the input to say... 25 - 30 amps. So if a system would naturally draw more amps I want to be able to control the system be limiting the amp input...if that is making any sense. Got any thoughts ??? tks Huchleberry

Topic by huchleberry    |  last reply