electric bike

I am working on a motor bike that i had originally decided to go gas with but the motor dosent work anymore so i changed my mind and went electric. i was wondering if i would still need a jackshaft with an electric motor. it is a 24 volt motor out of  a powerchair.  i don't know specifics on tourque and hp, but it's pretty powerfull, and turns quite a few rpms. any help would be appreciated. thanks.

Topic by the mechanical engineer 


electric bicycle

Ok, i wanna take a old bike and put an electric motor on it, with a solar charged battery. what i wanna know is, what are my options on motors if i wanna use recycled components? can i use a motor from a; washer, dryer, blower fan, ect? i would like to be able to have something i can get around town with(not assisted)

Topic by golddigger1559   |  last reply


Electric Motors?

Can a 3/4 HP electric motor ( from an old garage door opener ) have enough power to be put in a bike and get at least 10 MPH out of it. Also what batteries should i use, i think i have an 18v or 16v battery somewhere..

Topic by Katarukito   |  last reply


charging electric bike by it own?

Hi all, this is my first time on instructable and i think i can built an electirc bike with self-charging feature when pedalling or not using motor or downhill of freewheeling but i doesn't have any electric background i'm just a car mechanic from pakistan. i think if i put a 36v mid drive blcd motor kit in my bike as a drive motor and also put two 72v hub motors in both wheels then will it can be able to charge the battery or not? i know that hub motor produces AC volts and i neet to use 3-phase bridge rectifier, i just want to know is it possible or not? if possible then what are the pros and cons will i have with this system? sorry if mistaken in english. millions of thanks, ali shamsi.

Question by alis231   |  last reply


Electric bike motor help!

Helli guys.. after a long time racing motocross, I would like to experiment into doing an electric dirt bike for myself.. My plan is to find an 85 or 125cc frame with no engine, and build from that.. the biggest question is, what motor could I use that is no less than 15kw, and on the affordable side? I was looking at the Turnigy Rotomax 150cc eqiv. And it has a max power output at 9000 something watts, would that be any good for a motocross bike? Would it burn out quickly since its pretty small? Notes: i am strictly looking for powerful bikes, a 2kw bike is not for me since I am used to overpowered 250cc two stroke hell-born suicide machines, thanks..

Topic by dsirotic   |  last reply


Self charging an electric bike?

Hi all, I am always amazed at the ingenuity here and after many years of being fascinated I would like to ask my first question.  I'm thinking of getting or converting/building an electric cycle.  I've been told by local dealers that none except the very expensive have a recharge facility for sat when you go downhill or are freewheeling,  That seems a waste to me so I am thinking ... why not buy a used wheel with a hub motor and fit it at the front wheel and that raises the following questions in my mind ... Can hub motors be used in reverse as generators?   Would the output be speed (rpm) dependent and if so then if said cycle has say a 36 volt system would it only charge the battery if the 'generator' is producing 36v or close to? If so would it be better to find perhaps a 24v hub motor to use as a generator and charge the battery via a variable input, 36v output step-up? I appreciate it will be less than 100% efficient when both using electric at the motor and charging at the 'generator' but would anyone have any idea how inefficient?  I'm fit enough to cycle on the flat but would appreciate help on the hills!! I assume I will need a diode or similar ... does anyone know where I can find a suitable circuit diagram Lots of questions I know ... sorry. David

Question by HRobinson   |  last reply


Thompson Classic/Euro Classic electric bike headlamp & mainboard wiring.?

Hi Folks. I have a bit of a dilemma I hope one of you good people can help me with. Nostalgic Girl asked me to get her old electric bike back on the road for her & all is going well apart from one small problem. Someone had a go at it a couple of years ago & managed to unplug most of the wiring in the headlamp where all the clever stuff is controlled like the horn lights & most importantly the speed. Normally this wouldn't be a problem as in a sensible world if you have six things to plug in you would use six plugs & sockets to wire it up, unfortunately on this there are six plugs but they have only used two different plug & socket sets one two pin type & one three pin type. Just to add insult to injury there are two three pin with Red, Green, Black and one with Red, Green, Yellow & the Two pin ones have two Black, Red one for the horn & another for the front light & another Blue, Brown which I believe is for the brake light. I would try a bit of trial & error work but I am just a little bit worried that the error bit may end up in my having to buy a new board. Can anyone tell me where I can get a wiring diagram from? Or know which plug goes where on the board? Thanks in advance for your help you clever people. Kev.

Question by Nostalgic Guy   |  last reply


i want to build ebike?

But there is no any bldc motor supplier in my country Nepal, so anybody knows what alternative motor i can use to build my ebike that i can find from any other tools

Question by Suraj Basnet   |  last reply


Electric Motor Tricycle 6V4.5Ah

I bought a riding toy for my son and it's cool, but it doesn't have enough power sometimes.  It's fast enough in the house, but it gets stuck outside.  The plastic wheels tend to slip on rough surfaces and inclines, but I can address that issue at the wheels/tires to some degree.  However, the battery that came with it is a 6V4.5AH/20HR sealed lead-acid rechargeable battery (It has F1 contacts, so unless I change or adapt the wires/connectors, I think I need to stick with a battery that has these).  The AC-DC adapter has 6V DC 500mA output, but I think I could get a UNIVERSAL AC DC ADAPTER {1.5V 3V 4.5V 6V 9V 12V 500mA} that would work with a new battery. I'm hoping that I can increase the power noticeably but safely.  One constraint is the width of the battery area inside the "engine" compartment.  It fits the present battery (1.75 x 2.75 x 4), but I'll have to mod the compartment to fit a replacement that's more than slightly bigger. I've seen some 12V4.5AH batteries online, but most are larger in every dimension. Am I even on the right track thinking a higher voltage battery is what I need?  Could I use an NiMH or Li battery/batteries instead? What's the easiest, safest, cheapest route for this mod? Thanks, Dan

Topic by danhorowitz   |  last reply


Bike Powered Light?

Some kind of LED, so that the biking charges the battery which powers the LED? I know there's quite a lot on this site, but I've never done anything electrical, and need help with that. Also, I would like (in order): easiest, cleanest (no lines everywhere), smallest, and best looking one possible... And I need a lot of help with electricity... 

Topic by Batryn   |  last reply


Electric bike from spare motors

Hi Everyone, my first post here.  I've been thinking of making an electric bike. Now there are bikes on the market that are $450+ and I have a spare one that I haven't touched in over 6 years lying around. With the recent improvements in DC electric motors, I think it's about time I gave it a shot at assembling an electric bike. The motor will likely come from an electric lawn mower, the battery will be a lithium ion battery rated for that motor (I can attach these into series or parallel depending on what motor I use). I've been looking at electric motors from Kogan.com.au (I'm australian)  Either one of these http://www.kogan.com/au/buy/18v-lithium-ion-cordless-garden-tool-set-3-piece-set/ or http://www.kogan.com/au/buy/recharge-mower-electric-lawn-mower The cheaper one more likely. If I should source a motor another way then I'm all ears.  My questions are: Would the motors in the first link be powerful enough (they use the same battery as an electric drill) How would I attach the motor to the bike so that I can ride and engage the engine when I want? How would I mount it so that I can use regenerative braking? I was thinking of using a clutch sort of mechanism attached to the wheel axle, again I'm all ears. And if anyone's done this already, what type of hazards am I going to face? (that probably aren't obvious, safety first!) I also thought of using a petrol engine from a lawn mower but an electric bike seems more appealing to me. :) Thanks all

Topic by majuules 


Ignition switch for an electric bike in the UK.

Hi folks. Does anyone in the UK know a dealer who could supply an ignition switch/battery lock for a Thompson Classic electric bike? I've had a look around the interweb & ebay & cannot find a suitable replacement switch anywhere, there are plenty that would fit but none of them seem to be the correct one as they only have one "On" position the one I need has two, one is for pedal assisted & the second for fully powered. The switch also locks the battery box onto the frame it looks similar to the larger of these two on ebay. I have called the importers & their quote for a replacement carries an outrageous price compared to the third party ones I have seen at over eight times the price plus postage & although I expect to pay a bit more for a slightly more complex part I certainly don't expect it to be THAT MUCH more. I'm sure there must be other bikes that use similar switches but haven't as yet been able to find a dealer who can help. Any suggestions would be gratefully received. Thanks in advance for your help. N.G.

Topic by Nostalgic Guy 


Bike conversion ideas for a semi-noob

Having just rescued my nice GT from my parents' place, my old junker bike is now surplus to requirements. (I like to have a "spare" bike, but now I have three bikes it's literally a fifth wheel. And sixth.)I've wanted to build an electric bike or a recumbent for a long time, but despite fiddling with bikes for a while I'm still just a competent novice. A competent novice with very limited tools, in fact. Therefore I'm looking for a project like this uber-simple electric-assist (incomplete) or the no-weld recumbent. If anyone knows of any other projects like these, I'd like to see them.Pictures of the bike to follow- it's a fairly generic short-frame mountain bike, probably intended for dirt jumping as it's got a short geometry, thick downtube and a low seat/short seat tube. The front fork is a "suspension" fork with about 1" of travel and too much preload to be any use on roads, everything else is standard.

Topic by PKM 



need help on how to wire 4 36 volt dewalt packs and 2 a123 2s2p packs in parallel.

I need help wiring up 4 36 volt dewalt packs and 2 a123 2s2p cell packs in parallel. . Will somebody please help ?My bike is a 36 volt red lee  iococca ebike.A diagram and any advise that could help will be appreciated. Thank You.  elvisbrown.

Question by elvisbrown   |  last reply


Washing machine motor on an electric vehicle?

Hello, i already asked a question about a car starter as a Motor for my Electric bike project. I got bad news from the answers, so I wanna use a washing machine motor.  My question is, do i need 240V to power it? Or it has like a transformator in the washing machine that makes the voltage lower? I never opened one..

Question by dsirotic   |  last reply


Need help re-proposing 18650 cells into a E-bike battery Answered

So I was lucky enough to snag 35+ Temperature recorders from work today, Each with a 18650  cell (or two) inside. I've already made sure there wasn't a Deposit or return credit on them first so no problem there :) And I already know how to test each cell to see if they hold a charge. Does anyone have some suggestions about how to wire them all together? I was looking at This Movie Earlier and seems they used 30X 18650 cells to build a 37V battery pack My biggest concern is balancing the cells. since 3 are wired in parallel (then 10 groups in series) it seems to me that each cell may receive a slightly different charge. I'm trying to find a 9-cell balancing charger but no luck quite yet. Even if I do, does anyone think that will cause an imbalance in each of the three cells wired in parallel? Also each cell has some sort of an over discharge regulator on it as well. I'm wondering if they would be a factor in charging/Discharging the cells. (First time I've used this many 18650's in one project in a parallel/series circuit ) Any thoughts would be appreciated; I'll be sure to give a Best Answer ;) Hope to hear back soon! Wired_Mist

Question by Wired_Mist   |  last reply


12v car fan motor for an electric bike

Hi everyone ! I have a project for school that's called "the no project project". I have to do anything I want... so I had the idea of doing an electric bike, or tricycle. So I searched for motors... chainsaw motors... etc ! I have a little budget, and I red it was possible to use car heater fan motor, so I was very interested! But I wanted to have a confirmation from you guys... is a car heater fan motor as powerful as a wheel hub motor? and it is possible to use them as a electric bike motor? Thanks !

Topic by Antoto   |  last reply


is the 250 rpm dc motor is good for electric bike??

Is the 8kg-cm and 250 rpm dc motor is good for electric bike??  hi i have a 12v dc geared motor 250 : rpm 8 km-cm : torque is this good for build ebike ??

Question by ShocoM   |  last reply


Motorbike starter motor on a Scooter?

Hello! I changed the starter motor on my bike some years ago, and this motor is laying around in my garage since then, working! I always wanted to build an electric vehicle, and i would like to start with an electric scooter! My questions are:  1. Would the motor work and run on a scooter? 2. how much would the battery last? I plan to use a normal motorbike battery, i dont know much in electronics, they are 12V and 10-70Ah 3. will the motor heat up and burn? 4. what range would it have? The motor in question is a Mitsuba, aftermarket mounted on my bike a Honda CR 250 if this helps. Thanks in advance!

Question by dsirotic   |  last reply


New Take on the Tandem

Jiang Qian has come up with a very interesting idea: bicycles (or are they tricycles?) that you can either ride alone or link up and ride with others. To top it off: the bikes are electric and fold up.Link via core 77

Topic by joshf   |  last reply


E-Bike project (How to choose a suitable DC motor)

Hi Guys, I am currently doing my school project on electrical bicycle. Mind teach me how to choose a suitable e-bike motor to be used and what is the calculation that I needed. I plan to enable the e-bike to support the weight of 100kg with people riding on it.

Question by rchan10   |  last reply


Replacing lead acid batteries in an electric bike battery pack.

Hi folks. Several years ago I replaced the batteries in my ex's bike, when I dismantled what I assumed to be the battery pack in it's original state it contained six 6v (16ah if I recall correctly) batteries, I bought identical batteries & wired them into the box exactly as it had been before & unsurprisingly it worked perfectly. The bike is now mine and as I said that was several years ago, the bike has seen a lot of use since & the pack has been discharged & recharged sometimes several times a week ever since, the bike is now lacking power, hills it used to climb with ease are now becoming a struggle & the bike is generally not as fast as it use to be so I have been looking around for another set of batteries planning to replace them once again. When I started looking around the web for suitable replacements for my model of bike every site I found with deals for a battery set lists not six 6v but three 12v, dimension wise they are not a problem as the three batteries will fit quite nicely into the box but I have to admit I was a little surprised. I will be honest I'm not as well versed on things like electric bikes as I would like to be & frankly the whole thing is a bit of a mystery to me, ask me for a table a workbench a garden swing or a shed & I'm your man, I can rebuild computers & set up networks without a problem and there are plenty of other things that I'm very good at but with this stuff I need advice. My question is simply this, is there any advantage or disadvantage for that matter to using three 12v 15Ah rather than six 6v 16ah batteries. I would prefer answers in plain simple layman's terms rather than lots of technical jargon, if it helps the bike is a Thompson Euro Classic with a 36v lead acid battery pack and rear hub motor, admittedly a bit of a dinosaur in electric bike terms but it still gets me around well enough I'd just like to get a bit more power out of it. Thanks in advance for any help. NG.

Topic by Nostalgic Guy   |  last reply


Selecting DC Motor Power rating for an electrical-bike project?

I want to select a dc motor for my e bike project. I want to move a mass of 140 kg including cycle weight at top speed of 25km/h. I am confused with selecting motor specification, on Power rating. How can I calculate the required Power to drive a weight of 140kg with a speed of 25km/h. I have tried to use the formula that I found in the website ( http://www.kreuzotter.de/english/espeed.… ) . The power rating that I got is about 179W. But on reading of the articles on (investigating the human cycling performance), I found that the average people cycling power is less than 100W. I also have see the commercial e-bike specification, the commercial e-bike used 24V 250W DC motor to power their e-bike. Please help me in this matter, I am very confused with this, if there is any formula or calculation...please guide me ...I am appreciate your helps.

Question by rchan10   |  last reply


Electric vehicle motor selection

As any one who has looked at my instructables knows whilst a school teacher I built a full sized electric racing car.https://www.instructables.com/id/Building-an-elect...This had a 250 watt DC motor over run to 500 watts - 20 amps at 24 volts .It was capable of running the car up to 25 - 30 MPH and using 2 car batteries drive for a couple of hours on the flat.Nowadays electric vehicles are all the rage. Looking at a few motores as small as 4000 watts are in use for city use where high speed isn't necessary.Now the question:https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-c580l-580kv-br...This motor intended for model cars is rated at 4000 watts RPM 26,100 100 amps at 45 volts. that's about 5.5 Hp.Suitably gears down could such a motor be a power unit for a light weight electric vehicle.The DC motor I used was, by comparison, huge and weighty. It seems to me that HP is HP and 5.5. Hp is plenty for what I have in mind.My concerns as always is I see no other commercial manufacture doing this - or anyone else for that matter, only electric bikes use small motors.There has to be a reason I am not catching.Experts out there you opinion please.

Topic by rickharris   |  last reply


Electric Handicap Scooter parts, any ideas???

Heya guys I just aquired and parted out a electric handicap scooter from a rummage sale for 20 bucks. It is a three wheeler. Batteries are dead (read, toast). Im tring to figure out what to so with the gearbox/motor assembly. It is all one unit. Im trying to think of some kind EV project. I thought perhaps putting some larger 26in wheels on the axle ends to gear it up, and make some sort of cargo trike. Any other ideas would be appreciated

Topic by JerryMopar   |  last reply


Is it feasible to add a kick start to my sport bike? Answered

I have a 200cc dual sport that has dual electric and kick start which i love for when i'm having charge/ battery issues or it's just reluctant to start on cold days. My sport bike is a zx7r with electric starter exclusively. Is there a practical way to add a kick start to this bike or (as i'm guessing) would it be way more time/ trouble/ money than it's worth?

Question by garretttm   |  last reply


Honda Rebels....

Hey, my Instructables friends I have been really looking into getting an 09 Honda rebel and I was wondering what I could do to improve efficiency, comfort, etc. There were no Instructables on this matter. Any and all ideas are appreciated, including solar power, led lights, whatever.

Topic by Junk_Wizard   |  last reply


Swapping out a lead acid electric bike battery for a Lithium Ion one.

Hi folks. I have a fairly old but still quite serviceable Thompson Euro Classic electric bike that runs on a 36v lead acid electric battery pack with a brushless motor. I've just been offered a 36v lithium ion bike battery that I would love to use but I'm not too sure if it would be the right choice, my main reason for the change is simply weight consideration, the current battery pack comprises of three 12v batteries and weighs in at a hefty 28lb the replacement weighs a little under 4lb, this would very obviously make quite a difference in the bikes 87lb overall weight. However weight isn't the only consideration, I would like to extend the range of my bike and with a little work and some suitable wiring and a couple of switches I could quite easily use the battery as a second power source for longer rides, I fitted a large plastic  tool box onto a rear carrier when I first bought the bike which would easily accommodate the battery or I could possibly even add an external carrier for it behind the seat, the current battery is good for around fifteen to twenty miles depending on how many hills I hit & how much I feel like pedalling, I hoping that an additional battery would double the range meaning I could rely on it to visit nearby towns without having to worry about finding somewhere I can give the battery a booster charge. My main worry is about damage to the motor, I know very little about electric bike motors and having read so many stories about these batteries suffering from overheating problems and even catching fire I am more than a little concerned I could damage to my only transport, I usually ride motorcycles but thanks to a couple of health issues I'm currently grounded so apart from walking which can be pretty limiting this bike is my only way to get around without spending a fortune on public transport I'm looking for advice from people who know about electric bikes and their motors who could give me some simple advice in layman's terms on how to proceed, please don't blind me with all sorts of technical jargon as it really wouldn't help, I'm not stupid it just isn't my field of expertise. Thanks in advance for your help. NG.

Topic by Nostalgic Guy   |  last reply


Bicycle security!

Hey hey, so the other day i came up with a way that i thought might work well for a bicycle security...thing. anyways, since just about all bikes are made of metal, except the carbon ones, and metal conducts electricity, what if you had some way of making your bike, electrically charged? i guess (i dont know all the proper words heh) so if a person comes up to your bike and wants to take it, at some point in the process of taking your bike, he would come in contact with some metal part and get shocked. i thought if you made it properly, and made the shock strong enough, it would be a great way to keep your bike safe...cause i know if i went to take someones bike, and all of a sudden i get zapped all of a sudden every time i touch the bike, i would not want that bike! i figured you'd need some batteries with enough voltage to give him a good shock, enough to make him not want to take the bike, but not so much that you would kill him...that obviously would not be good.  but i'd imagine that more powerful batteries might be to big, and not fit anywhere on your bike. i thought that maybe you could hide everything in the seat tube after you take the seat post out, and maybe have a hidden switch somewhere on the bike so you could turn it off. im sure there's more issues i havent thought over, just an idea, and im far from an electrical expert, so i dont know how rubber shoes might ground the person, or how you would go about wiring it, and other stuff like that. i just wanted to see what some people here thought about it, and if it is even possible for me to do

Topic by sirshmoopy   |  last reply


The Motorcycle Of The Future

Hailed as the arrival of the motorcycle of the future the MotoCzysz E1PC electric motorcycle is burning up the track. With a 100 horsepower (continuous) and 250 pound-feet or torque, it's no slouch. Check it out via Wired's Autopia http://www.wired.com/autopia/2010/06/motoczysz-e1pc/  

Topic by Culturespy   |  last reply


Spring loaded bicycle braking system , Does double duty as a Propulsion aid through gears . Feasible?? Answered

  Basic Idea: When used to help slow(not primary brakes) a strong coil or spring is tightened to aid slowing. When maximum amount of tightness is reached the coil disengages somehow, The coil could be kept in the tight state until released for use for a burst of propulsion through reverse gears . Totally non-electric and light. It would be ideal for stop-and -go bike commuters , up and down hilly areas ,etc.         Same idea could used for smaller cars, motorcycles,etc. Has this been used before ? Feasible ? Any critiquing of the concept is welcomed .

Question by BtheBike   |  last reply


Hydraulic drive for trike.? Answered

I am in the (long term) process of rebuilding my tricycle recumbent bike (a tadpole configuration). At present it has the usual long chain driving the rear wheel. I would like to do away with the long chain for several reasons and am toying with the idea of using a hydraulic drive. Cylinders at front and rear with the front driven by my feet and the rear driving a standard pedal set with the normal short chain/gear set - in face the rear frame of a standard bike with the hydraulics rams in place of my legs.. I can't find anywhere that this has been done and this worries me as generally what can be done is done. In metal weight would be a problem but I hope to be able to machine the rams in plastic tubing giving me a light energy transfer from front to back. Hopefully it will be electric assist as well but that is another matter. Any comments would be welcome before I commit to building it so I can see why this is such a bad idea.

Question by rickharris   |  last reply


Mission Motors Releases their Mission One Electric Motorcycle

Our officemates here at Instructables HQ, Mission Motors, just released their all electric motorcycle. Check out the press about it here at Treehugger and here at Greentech Media. The bike will have a top speed of 150 MPH, will go 150 miles on a charge, and the first 50 are expect in early 2010.They've been working like maniacs around the office and lab, and it's awesome to see their hard work start to pay off. Think we've got lots of cool stuff going on here? We do! You could work in our lab too!

Topic by ewilhelm   |  last reply


Converting a bike into a 50cc moped, any advice?

 What do I do for break lights and turning signals? I'm very technical minded and good with electrical logic, but I don't know the laws/regulation surrounding that area (but I DO know they are required). I've taken driver's training, so I know all the laws/signs ect... I'm looking for advice from people who've done this before. Have you run into any problems? Catches? I have very little idea what is needed to make a gas powered motor to work. How to you take care of a 2-stroke 50cc engine? How do I mount it to my bike frame? should I look out for something in particular when I purchase an engine? Oh, and I live in Michigan (if there is any notable laws here, I plan to go to the secretary of state soon)

Question by nepheron   |  last reply


Zero to 300mph in 30 seconds. On two wheels.

Meet the world's fastest ever road vehicle built to reach an astonishing top speed of 340mph.The Acabion GTBO uses jet fighter technology and aerodynamics to reach its extraordinary speed propelled by a state-of-the-art turbo-charged engine.Its designers revealed it could reach 300mph in a blistering 30 seconds - substantially quicker than the rival Bugatti Veyron which takes 55 seconds to reach its top speed of 250mph.Good grief, that would rattle your teeth!The article implies that an electric version is in the pipeline as well.Daily Mail story750 hp and 700 lbs vehicle weight result in more than 2100 hp per ton. They boost the jet-like GTBO to jet-fighter punch and to new dimensions of both efficiency and speed.V-max 340 mph at half throttle, governor limited.0 to 300 mph in less than 30 sec.Economic theories tell us, that you can not maximize effect and minimize effort at the same time. The Acabion GTBO proves the opposite. It minimizes weight and maximizes power and aerodynamic efficiency. The effects are just out of this world.100 mph at 1.7% throttle and 100 miles per gallon.150 mph at 4.3% throttle and 62 miles per gallon.250 mph at 17% throttle and 25 miles per gallon.Acabion websiteMore photos at Jalopnik

Topic by Kiteman   |  last reply


How can I build a 4 wheeled device on which a harley sportster can be loaded and transported?

The device would be operated by one or more 12v dc motors.  Power for the motors will be obtained from a pickup truck battery. I want to use the device to load a harley sportster, which weighs 500 lbs., onto the box of a pickup truck.   Loading will be enabled by a platform, angled from ground surface to truck box.  Presently, I'm able to use a 12v winch, attached to the front end of the truck box,  to pull the bike up a ramp onto the truck box. To hold the bike erect while it is being pulled up the ramp, I use two 8 inch air filled wheels attached to the bike,( by a very makeshift wooden settup) one wheel on each side of the bike.  However, the bike must be pulled backwards onto the truck box so that it can be more safely offloaded by riding the bike, in its forward position, off the truck and down the ramp .   In order to keep the front wheel straight, this method still requires more than one person to hold the bike while it is being loaded.  The bike's transmission must be in neutral, but the back wheel, drive belt and xmission gears still turn and provide some resistance.  A 4 wheeled device loaded with a motorcycle, and operated by seperate electric motors would have free turning wheels and could be used to move the motorcycle around without its need to be pushed manually.  Perhaps it could be controlled remotely. 

Question by p2otoole   |  last reply


Help needed with electronics and RC stuff (planes) for personal transport project

Hi! I need a hand with getting my head around how RC plane motors are rated. I am looking at a 4000kv motor. is that 4000RPM Per volt from zero or from a nominal 6v starting voltage? This is for a personal transport project in the vein of this one - http://hacknmod.com/hack/make-diy-electric-bicycle/ That motor looks like it is very high on the wattage front! I have found several cheap motors and controllers on ebay that I think may be suitable http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Brushless-Motor-450-10-04-Trex-450SE-V2-35A-ESC-/320520418857?cmd=ViewItem&pt;=AU_Toys_Hobbies_Radio_Controlled_Vehicles&hash;=item4aa0817629 do you think that they would be able to do something similar (upto 25mph), providing that the vehicle DOESN'T have to be started from standing? A full instructable for a personal ride project is hanging on this info... Any help is greatfully received!

Topic by undescriptive   |  last reply


What kind of motor or device could I use to turn a bicycle real wheel?

Want to build a bike on a 18 or 36 volt battery(18 preffered) but having a difficulty finding a device I could attach to have it spin the wheel, ty so much for the help

Question by JorgeV154 


Hybrid electric vehicals, batteries going serial or parallel

Can I wire 7000 lithium ion battery cells (about 75kwh) in parallel, and then use a lightweight bike engine hooked to a DC generator and connected in series to the batteries to boost voltage? Are there any flows in this design concept, for use in a hybrid race vehicle to increase the longevity of the batteries?I am trying to develop a race track car which is hybrid, thus utilizing electric motors immense torque.We build original race cars with common petrol engines but now I’m seriously thinking of developing a next generation race car. I know batteries don’t last long in high drain situations and thus any race car I sell will need a battery replacement after a race season. I’m sure this will be bad for business. Thus this is why I’m thinking of ideas to prolong the battery life by reducing current drainage. That’s why I want to have an engine generator with its sole purpose is just to boost voltage, and about 20,000ah worth of batteries connected in parallel so I reduce current demand per battery cell to well under 1C. Giving a Tesla p100d as an example I would require about 1200 amps and 400 volts to produce 480kw of power. If wire all 7000 battery cells in parallel to produce the same amount of current then each cell will need to provide about 0.18amps that’s very low to sustain longevity of the batteries. The generator is then connected in series to help boost the system voltage to 400vIn extrem simple terms, (the batteries provide the current, and the engine generator provides the voltage)I hope you understand why I’m looking at it this way. I know it might not be the most efficient way, but is it a practical doable way? Thanks

Topic by SamA196   |  last reply


looking for a component to control my 36v500w motor speed and direction from an arduino

Hello! I am currently trying to build my won electric scooter. i bought this motor http://www.ebay.com/itm/Razor-MX500-Dirt-Rocket-Bike-Electric-Scooter-Motor-36V-500W-MY1020-P-ST20-/141293042627?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash;=item20e5b8bbc3&vxp;=mtr and i have a 38v 10A battery which i plan on turning into 20A further more i plan on using a resistor to change the out volt to 36v. i am now looking for a controller that i can connect to an arduino so the arduino can control the speed and direction of the motor. any suggestions?

Question by bfeher1   |  last reply


Kite-Biking? Street Luge Meets Kite Boarding Meets Tricycles

(WARNING: If I or anyone else should try this or try to recreate the idea in any way, please be safe, wear full body racing gear Like for motorcycles and such. If I do this I will definitely try to be as safe as possible.)Okay so I was fooling around on the net and ran into Turbo Pro Tricycles. http://www.primepedalkarts.com/resources/2007picturboyellowbig.jpghttp://www.primepedalkarts.com/turboproyellow.html They have a Demo Video that's about 20mb if you'd like to see some action with it. Anyway, as soon as I SAW the Trikes, I was thinking EXTREME. Basically the bikes steer like Luge boards, except you pedal them to make them go, not gravity. Well The bikes have a 'Free' gear which is used for coasting, and I was thinking with some modding, This could be an ATV or street beast (Permitted that these would be allowed in your area). Just add a Kite and steering system with the mandatory trike mods to follow (A list at the bottom) and you'd have a new (I hope) extreme sport 'KiteTriking'. I'd keep the pedals functional if possible so that when not skirting around on Kite-power you can pedal around. Although a completely other idea might be to try to motorize it electrically. (someone come up with a concept?)The mod list would most likely have to include:Some appropriately sized metal alloy wheels with racing or All-terrain tires to match.A reinforced chain or complete replacement.Brake replacements or modding to make them more efficient.Adding an Emergency Break.Reinforcing the frame.Changing the seat to a more sturdy, ergonomic one.And changing the pedals to aluminum ones.Kite mounting and emergency release mechanism.Some sort of rear storage space.

Topic by kojimagtr   |  last reply


Balance Bike type of RideOn but for grown ups? NoPedals

You know all the kind of training bikes LikeABike and Strider RideOn so many different brands and varieties and naturally them are for the kids so young them have not learned to pedal and keep balance so these first "bikes" are for them to run along like on a "Hobby Horse" kind of thing that have the added safety of both feet on the ground when them need to gain balance again. Them sit and walk or run and seem to really enjoy it. Now suppose you are some 65 years older than these kids. You have the balance and can go by pedaled bike but them are not allowed to take on the Commuter Train or on the Bus that goes to the big Mall you want to visit and when you arrive no bike is allowed in so it get vandalized or stolen outside. But if you had a Walker or Rollator kind of mobility aid then that would be allowed. So what if one took a "Toddler" bike and made a grown up RideOne or BalanceBike for grown ups. No pedals on it. That would not get allowed either unless it has an electric motor and look like an expensive Mobility Scooter. So one need a Rollator that transforms into a RideOn. type of seated thing that can be used to move around on. I wish one could easily combine these two things but I fail to have enough innovation fantasy on how to accomplish this. So I test if kind people here get a clue or hang on how one could do such a thing. Transformer Bike/Rollator or what to name it. I have bought several Rollators and several KickBoard GoPed similar versions one are supposed to stand on or walk behind All of these are hurting the knee. So one need a seated thing. Sure it does exists already. The KneeScooter but that one have a seat that is too narrow so it hurts the butt. The customers complained so now one can buy an extra seat or saddle to it that is broader and less painful. But the KneeScooter does not look like a Rollator at all. It looks like a Scooter. A Rollator need Castering wheels in the front that seems a must. It can be a three wheel as long as the caster is the front wheel. Now if you sit on a four or three wheel thing and push of or kick off with feet on the ground then there is now way to steer the thing. so a transformer bike/rolator need to change from free wheeling caster to a steered caster to be safe. So that is the criteria and difference. In one position it looks like a real standard Rollator that you walk behind or in front off. Then after pushing the magig button it turns into the steerable seated balance bike kind of mobility RideOn for grown ups with knee problems. I have written about this in another post too so hope I am not breaching a hard hitting rule. Here I ask more what to name such a thing and how to make that thing so popular that the accumulated popularity makes the commercial companies aware of the need. If we can come up with a catchy name for such a thing then somebody maybe make one and test the market? On the other thread I ask for somebody to help me figure out how to DIY make one or to modify a standard Rollator so it can fill both functions. You would make me very happy if you come up with a catchy name for such a thing.

Topic by kneeproblemguy   |  last reply


Steampunk motorcycles

From The Kneeslider:Steampunk is all about the design and very little concerned with added (or lost) function but some of it would be neat if it worked half as well as you wish it would.That's about my take on it; my aesthetic sense says "ooh, shiny" and "mmm, leather" and "lovely scrollwork there, that would be fun to make" and my engineer side says "but...but...shouldn't those gears be doing something?" In any case, The Kneeslider has a piece on steampunk motorcycles, including the Hubbard Steamcycle, which may eventually actually run on steam, and a German bike that's a one-cylinder, 1440 cc machine with a shovel for a seat. Several other steampunk (or even steam-engine) bikes are mentioned in the comment section, as well. The 1908 Field Steam Bike includes "To progress gently move cut off lever and PRAY" as step 10 of the startup procedure, and this sleek little machine would be perfect for any aspiring steampunk supervillain. And from the nigh-venerable Steampunk Workshop, a piece on Tom Sepe's Whirlygig Emoto, a beautifully-crafted "electric-steam hybrid motorcycle."

Topic by reno_dakota   |  last reply


Pre-purchase questions of a petrol-driven electrical generator - cos you guys know best! Thanks!

I have a caravan in a remote location and I've got round to thinking of buying a petrol-driven electrical generator. I'm figuring on using this with an ethanol (E85) fuel. I'd really appreciate some help if you can to any parts of my queries. I have looked around on Google for advice but there's a lot of conflicting stuff as usual and I know you guys are good. My normal max load is around 4,500watts but I have security HID lights which have a huge inductive start for a few millseconds - how will a suitably rated generator cope? Do I always add a 20% margin to the generator capacity so for a 4.5kW load I should get a 6kW machine? Or is it not 20%? Given that the machine will be outside, I don't want to annoy the other caravanners, so if I build a sound-proofing box with just an outlet for the exhaust, could I expect the noise to be reduced signifcantly, given a lot of noise will be coming from the exhaust itself? The machine has a tank of 15litres but I want to increase this safely - how could this be done, if at all? Safety is paramount (naturally) but then so is convenience. Do you have a generator? If so, what do you wish you knew beforehand or any regrets? What kind of maintenance schedule is there and is there a performace improvement for modding the air-intake to a larger filter like for cars and bikes? Many thanks for reading my question and thanks for your time to reply.

Question by kevinhannan 


Has anyone used/made a Schrader-valve (tire stem) adapter for a Coleman mattress pump?

I'm getting too old (or out of shape) to use a manual tire pump on mine and my wife's bicycles. We own a Coleman air mattress with their wall-plug inflation pump. The latter comes with their custom "air lock" adapter for the mattress, and a "pinch valve" adapter.Before I go out and buy a compressor/electric pump for the bikes, I wanted to try using this one that I already own. Has aynone ever used this pump with a valve-stem adapter (Schrader valve) to inflate tires? If so, where did you get the adapter? Or did you make one?

Topic by kelseymh   |  last reply


GY6 50 cc chinese scooter won't start. What could it be? Answered

Hi. I bought a 50 cc scooter that was sitting for some time. It's 2008 model and it had around 400 km when I got it. That's pretty low in my opinion. Well at first it was running fine. I mad around 100 km on the first day. Well the second day it didn't start. Thankfully my friend helped me and he said that my carburetor is dirty. He celaned it and scooter started up. I made around 60km on the same day with no problem. In the morning the next day my scooter wouldn't start. I tried to do the same as him. I cleaned carburetor and fuel filter but scooter still wouldn't start. It doesn't start electrically or kick start. It's like 5th day and my scooter still won't start. What happens when i turn it on:  - sometimes it sounds just like a dc motor spinning but nothing happens (there is no cranking sound)  - usually it makes cranking sounds but doesn't start  - when I let it sit for a while (for 30min, 1h, day ...) it makes a sound like it almost started up but then dies Thank you all for help! I would like to apologize for my lack of english words in engines and bikes field (not a native english speaker and I'm not specialized in those fields).

Question by matijalazic   |  last reply


Very old shielding materials and techniques for permanent magnets and resulting possibilities

Forromagnetic meterials are not just called that for no reason.It comes from ferrous - iron.Iron has the highest permeability at normal temperatures.That means a magnet is attracted to it very strongly.We utilise this for transformer cores, the stuff inside a relay and the moving latch of the relay itself.Like current from an electrical system magnetic fields like to take the easiest route possible.Air is a very bad medium, so any iron close by will be prefered even if it is at a slight distance.You can check with a magnet, a steel bar and some iron shavings - please cover the are with plate first ;)Slightly less known is the option to also guide and extend the magnetic field this way.If you check how far the magnetic field of a magnet reaches and note that distance,then you can add some steel bars or rods at the poles - the field will extend through the metal.The most powerful example of this are the shielded magnets used for hooks or speakers.Except for a tiny area the entire magnetic flux goes through the metal.So in this lefover area the magnetic flux density will my many times greater than what the magnet alone would be able to.What most people don't know is that magnets also interact with other magnets in terms of their fields changing and distorting.The Halbach Array is a good example of this.Seen as a single magnet the array would have one weak and one strong side instead of even strenght for both.Wherever magnetic fields change a conductor can produce electricity or current.This in return causes an electromagnetic field that opposes the one from the magnets.Just drop a magnet through a copper or aluminium pipe ;)Since these distortions are widely unknow to the hobby tinkerer mistakes can happen ;)In the early days of exploring science some people already knew about shielding.And they also knew that certain metals have certain properties.Where it is quite hard to create a good coil from steel wire, copper works fine as it is not magnetic.What would then a copper shielding do?If you have two moving magnets with only a tiny gap then the resulting field distortions are quite huge.A copper shield around the magnet like a pipe would then react to these changes and also create a megnetic field that works in relation to the enclosed magnet.In simple terms it means the shield would let the magnet appear weaker or stronger depending on the field change.A quite old document I found gave some hints on how people thought in different directions back then.It was in regards to the design of a magnet motor by the way.Here various magnets were shielded in tube made of a copper-bismuth-alumium alloy.These tubes were then electrically connected so it created a single loop conductor.The claim was that the resulting electromagnetic field of this ring would drive the fields of the enclosed magnets sideways out of alignment.Like bending straight pastic tubes sideways.This "pulsating" would always happen when the magnetic binding forces reach max and so basically drastically weaken this binding effect.Another document talks about a "magnetised brass rod".A holes of the rod diameter is drilled through a block magnet.Not from north to south but through the middle where the flux is greatest.The claim here was that if that rod rotates fast enough a very low voltage with a very high current will be generated.Sounds easy and interesting enough that I might have to test one myself one day.The best one however is what I consider a hoax or being as good as Starlite.Someone back in 1908 claimed to have created a material the reflects magnetic fields.In lame man's terms it would be like an insulator around some electrical wire.The claim and some pics showed it, was that no magnetic field can pass the material.Or to be correct only a tiny fraction of what would be possible through air.A small magnet inside a longer tube of this material would create almost the same attraction to steel at the tubes ends as on the magnet itself.Measurements showed the field strength would be almost equal to a long mangnet of the same field strength.Imagine guiding the field of a big and powerful magnet through a tube around some corners or other magnets and then end in just a tiny hole for the entire flux...Too bad he never shared his secret formula to anyone knows to mankind.Isolation...Imagine you have an array of changing magnetic fields and quite strong magnets.Then you might face the problem that your focus on the "working" end neglected the other end of the magnet (stack).Providing some iron core material will keep thes field lines contained and away from interfering with your setup ;)But it also allows to use te otherwise unused end of your magnets more directly.For example by guiding to another magnet to affect its field strenght ;)Placing a sheet or steel between two magnets in a setup provides a "shared pole" so to say.If you have a north and south pole on a rotor at a distance of 5mm then a sheet of steel between will drastically weaken the strenght and reach of this combined field.It is like pulling the arch between the magnets down to make it more flat.And at and an angle the resulting field will also be slightly angled ;)Capping...When I first encounter this many years ago I couldn't really make sense of it.Quite complex..If you check the magnetic field lines with iron filings or similar then you notice how they go in a rounded manner from pole to pole.This is because the single field lines are of equal polarity and will dirve apart like opposing magnets.By capping the ends of a magnet you provide a short.Instead of diverting out like mad they will follow the cap and create very intersting magnetic field in return.If both poles are capped it is like pressing the magnet flat but without having a field on top of the oles - only aorund the center part.For this the thickness much must match what is required for the flux density.As a rule of thumb: if the end is still very magnetic then it is not enough material tickness ;)Interacting fields in a tube...This one is quite old too and seemed to have found no usable inventions apart from simple magnetic spring replacement systems.But it gave me some clues about Tesla "earthquake machine" ;)If you place a magnet in a tube and at it's ends magnets with opposing fields to the one inside then you can fix this magnet in place.Push one magnet deeper and the distance from the inner magnet to the other end will shrink the same amount.In this old paper two coils were around the pipe with the inner magnet between them.In this gap and at about the same width as the magnets length another coil was placed.Violent shaking would then create electrical energy at much higher level then modern shaker torches.In return an AC current on the outer coils would cause the inner magnet to move back and forth to create electricity in the center coil.According to the paper possible uses include: core less transformer, measuring minute changes in AC voltages, providing free power from a running motor...The last one had me stumbled for a very long time.Until I considered a different configuration.The whole thing is basically a linear DC motor - with correct timing of course.And in some motors we use permanent magnets.I am starting to wonder what would happen if we would design a rotor magnet like this?The running motor would be subject to constant field changes that affect the rotor.And a normal motor is always "even".By using four magnets instead of one we can push the field really flat.This means the area where the coil would operate (about 1/5 of the magnets area) will have a much stronger field.The resulting torque should be higher by about 25% !!Even a simple two coil model setup should show a significant increase in performance here.Timing is critical here but I tried some calculations based on 8 poles and the required "on times" for the coils.In a standard motor configuration with a single rotor magnet the coil is active for about 12° of the rotation.With a 4 magnet configuration this "on time" can be reduced to under 8° of the rotation to get the same amount of torque.An energy reduction of about 4% if you neglect losses and only think in time.If you think in terms like impulse energy then we are talking of about 15% !Shorter on time but still much higher flux density overall than for the long standard timings.Going the long run now:If you check how most DC motors work then you realise soon that for most one rule seems to followed.Only use one coild pair at a time.This is quite contradictive if you consider the geometry and options.A dual commutator would allow to use a second coil pair with a field OPPOSING the magnets instead of being attracted to it.After all: on you bike you pedal with both legs and not just one...And if you do it professionally then yu do the same as I suggested for the motor - you use the up pull of your legs as well.Doing it brushless only requires amodified h-bridge desing to drive the second coil pair at the right timing.Some will now say that it requires twice the energy, I say that for the same motor size your get twice the torque!Just imagine what that means in possible weight reduction for a motor - or its size to deliver the same torque at the same power levels when a normal motor is used ;)The more poles the more complicate the precise timing but no big deal really with modern electronics.Can it be improved even further?I though long and hard about that one until I considered EMF.A DC motor produces a lot of it when the elecromagnetic field collapses in the the coils.We do not utilise this energy...There is a tiny delay until the released energy levels are at max.My theory is that it should be possible to divert this energy into another coil set.If that coil is not the next active but still within a strong enough field area then the EMF would actually add to the drive of the motor.Only downside is that according to my calculations at least 16 poles would be required to get an optimum result.Way above of what I can create in my little garage :(In theory it should then be possible to reach about 98% efficiency for the motor....

Topic by Downunder35m   |  last reply