SemiFlex filament on Printrbot simple metal

 I just wanted to start a thread to check if anyone has had experience using SemiFlex on a Printrbot simple metal .. Basically there are a couple of  hacks to modify extrusion, something similar to the ones implemented to print NinjaFlex(https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2EAOJjQMxFE)..Thanks Also suggest a semiflex filament brand if you have had experience with any ..

Topic by CJA3D 


Does anyone have a Protocycler+ and is it worth the money?

I'm thinking about getting into low volume filament manufacturing and was wondering if it was a good machine. Is it worth $999?

Topic by CorbettY   |  last reply


Fighting with Nylon ;)

As some might know I still use an old Gen1 Prusa but love the challenge of basically getting everything done with that oldie. One of my latest challenges of "always" printing on a cold bed includes Nylon. If you ever had troubles because you ABS or PLA filament got too moist you will already know what happens to your print... Nylon is even worse when it comes to moisture as you can't see or really feel it. I was thinking of making a complete Nylon guide as an Instructable but think I will start here to kick off some discussion first. So, we know the Nylon must be really dry for a god print as otherwise we get bubbles, bad adhesion and of course a foamy looking print. Well, not really... Let me explain: A perfectly smooth and shiny finnish is not always required, and with the right settings Nylon still forms strong bonds even with a foamy look. However, the dimensions of parts are affected as well - outside dimensions go bigger and hole diameters smaller. If that is no issue for your print then there is no real need to perfectly dry your filament ;) Speaking of drying: People use all sorts of methods to dry their filament, not just Nylon. One of the most common and most expensive seems to be the use of your oven for several hours to dry it. Another way involves food dyhydrators, bit less on the energy bill but still... Then we have the smart guys using the sun and silaca gel for the drying - good and great but so useless in cold and wet climates... My advise here: Take your time! I mean, sure you want to print right after the filament arrived in your letter box but a bit of preperation will save you filament and frustration. Usually filament comes in a sealed bag with a pack of silica gel and it should be dry and ready to use. But Nylon can become too moist within the time it takes to finnish a long print if you are in a wet climate. This means you start printing and all is good but the next day your new print looks ugly as for no real reason. Make use of these sealed storage containers. Put the filament in there with a good amount of indicating silica gel and only have a hole to feed the filament through - if in doubt use a bowden fitting and a short lenght of teflon tube to prevent friction. A piece of sticky tape over the hole when you don't use the filament and the filament is always ready to use. Reminds me to make an Ible for a suitable storage solution with spool holder... Anyway... When it finally comes to print Nylon you should know cardboard works best as a bed as Nylon sticks really well to it. I glue mine onto a layer of masking tape, this way it won't lift from the bed and I can still replace it very easy. But the most common mistake with Nylon is to print it too fast. The stuff really expands and shrinks a lot from filament to print and high speeds only too often cause the layers to seperate later on. Some people compensate with higher temperatures but I don't like the idea of fitting a filter system with activated carbon filters... Also keep in mind the intense shrinkage when setting the extrusion multiplier! If your ABS prints fine with 0.85 you can expect that the same sized Nylon prints fine somewhere in the range of 55-60! Now you also know why printing with thick layers is not such a great idea if you require all dimensions to fit. Although only outside accuracy can be done by cheating in the settings, getting outside, inside and extrusion widths settings accurate is almost rocket sience ;) Nylon is expensive or not available here in the diameter I require.... I had the same trouble and reverted to trimmer line and a modified, dedicated hotend instead. Why dedicated you wonder? Nylon can be real pain to clean as nothing dissolves and if you heat the parts hot enough to melt it you can not work easy with them. Having a decicated hotend means you won't run into the problem of burnt ABS or PLA clogging the nozzle ;) It also means you can match the hotend to the trimmer line you choice (more on that in a minute). For example, in some areas trimmer line of 2mm or 3.3mm diameter is the most popular and cheapest. Just drill out the hotend to cater for the new diameter, which I did after noticing the filament got stuck in the neck of the cold end ;) Trimmer line - does it matter which one? It does these days! Avoid everything that is not round or labeled with terms like "duracore", "dual core", "multi layer"  -basically all that indicates it is not just a single, solid stand of Nylon. Long lasting, special core line is great for your lawn trimmer but really bad for your hotend! PET, High temp nylon or even fibre re-inforced cores are in use, so in the best case you mix the nylon with overheating PET, in the worst you block your nozzle permanently. If it looks like it has a core or some sort of "mantle" around it, it means not usable.

Topic by Downunder35m   |  last reply


Nylon and substitutes on a cold bed

It's been some time and I made progress with Nylon. Aldi had some cheap craft glue with methanol as the solvent - this stuff works great for PLA, ABS AND Nylon. The common problem with nylon is that it has no real adhesion to anything, except cardboard and bakelite. Cardboard makes a clean up nightmare and bakelite is not always easy to find, especially not the right type. So I tried various glues, paints and primers but none was really suited for all printing needs. And the cleanup of the bed is imoprtant too as I did not want to spend hours scrubbing with acetone or similar nasty solvents. After the first great succes with the clear Aldi craft glue I checked the local 2$ shops and carft stores and found similar glueswith methanol as a solvent. Since not everyone is lucky enough to get these specials I will tell you what to look out for if you try clear craft glue: Don't buy anything that can be cleaned up with water - you want methanol or ethanol as the solvent in the glue! Do a test with the glue on something that usually does not bind well to cheap glue, like glass and blister packs. Let the glue dry and peel it off - it should be a clear film that is quite strong and barely streches when you pull it. It almost feels like hard paper. All good so far? Check if the nylon, pla or abs really sticks to it: Spread a very thin layer on a piece of cardboard and let dry. Add another, thicker layer and let dry again. Now hold it under your nozzle and extrude a bit of filament while moving the cardboard around. Let cool and check how good it sticks. In a perfect world the cool plastic should peel the papaer off with the glue. Time to prepare your print bed the same way and to start printing ;) Just use a very thin first layer and for the first layer much lower speeds than usual. I print nylon with 60mm/s and the first layer at just 25mm/s, any faster and the first layer does not look right. ABS and PLA are much more forgiving here.

Topic by Downunder35m 


How do I replace a filament light with and LED on an ATV?

During one of my last outings, my tail/brake light got damaged beyond repair so I purchased an LED assembly and it wasn't until I opened the package I realized there were 3 wires (brake, running and ground).  My ATV is older (a 2000), so it only has 2 wire, as positive and a negative for the older filament style lights.  How do I hook this up so that I get my running light and brake light running properly?

Question by jdg511   |  last reply


HELP DESIGNING WINDING MACHINE

The machine should be able to wind a filament or wire around a beam structure that could measure 40 feet long by a diameter from 5 to 40 inches. A mechanical tensioning system portable and compact for supporting and dispensing fiber filament or wire, to the filament winder with a standard tension range from 1 lbf to 10 lbf. The winding around the beam such be done silmultaniosly in a criss cross pattern to a 45 angle degree. If interested in helping me with the design, my options are open to discuss terms. Please contact me if more information is needed. thank you, munsangv

Topic by munsangv   |  last reply


Carbon Button Lamp

The Nikola Tesla group forum is asking for new projects, so I'm posting this as a suggestion. I would love to build it myself, but I lack the tools and money. This is my first contribution to Instructables, so please comment constructively.Nikola Tesla invented the Carbon Button lamp as a kind of incandescent light, because Thomas Edison banned him from using his incandescent filament bulbs. Nikola later discovered that versions of it could also be used in wireless, trans-Atlantic telegraphy, and to investigate what we now call x rays. In fact, he even used the lamp (or something similar to it) to take x-ray photographs, 8 years before Wilhelm Rotgen discovered them.For this reason, I must warn you: this device may possibly generate x rays. I am not responsible for any harm of any kind that may or may not result from re-creating this interesting device.There are phosphors that you can buy that will absorb x rays and re-emit them as visible light. I recommend that you coat the bulb with it until you know for sure that the x rays aren't strong enough to hurt you, or if makes x rays at all. Mixing it with a phosphor made for uv light wouldn't hurt either.Theory of Operation:The bulb is powered by a Tesla Coil, or other source of high voltage, high frequency current, such as a driver for a plasma globe (actually, the modern plasma globe is descended from this kind of technology!)When the power is turned on, electricity bombards the carbon button. Because carbon isn't the best conductor, this causes the button to heat and release electrons into the bulb's vacuum (the technical name for this is "thermionic emission," or the "Edison effect") . These electrons, in turn, excite the remaining air molecules and cause them to create visible light. This is strikingly similar to how fluorescent lamps work!Supposedly, the bulb should shine 10 times brighter than an incandescent bulb.(Note that the excitation of the air molecules, not the incandescence of the button, is actually the main source of light from the bulb.)If anyone decides to build it, please post an instructable showing the steps and finished product. I suggest you get started by reading the patent, number 514,170. You may also want to read part of Tesla's lecture, "Experiments with Alternate Currents of High Potential and High Frequency."To anyone who will attempt this, I wish you good luck!Patent: http://www.google.com/patents?id=UpldAAAAEBAJ&pg;=PA1&dq;=514,170+tesla&source;=gbs_selected_pages&cad;=0_1Lecture: http://www.tfcbooks.com/tesla/1892-02-03.htmQuestions:What can one use for the carbon button?Could one use a modern, hollowed-out light bulb for this? (I would think there would be some problems with sealing the globe, and with the stem.)Edit: I recently found the third picture in Tesla's Colorado Springs notes and his "apparatus for the utilization of radiant energy" patent. It must be the single-electrode x ray tube I was talking about before...

Topic by ElectricUmbrella   |  last reply


3D Printer XYZ Axis Problem

So, I finished building my 3D printer. I installed the firmware, etc. Whenever I try to print in repetier the X and Y axis move really fast while the Z axis doesn't go up nor down. I have tried so much to fix but I just can't find a solution. Also, I have the MK9 Extruder and for some reason the extruder doesn't feed the filament, it just stays there. In case you ask, I have not be able to print anything. There is a video of the process, and sorry for the mess.

Topic by JoeM286   |  last reply


3D printed combination lock anyone?

I am in the finnishing stages for a fully 3D printed dial combination lock, similar to what would be used on a safe.Unlike what you might find in other places there is no metal parts.No crappy amount of possible combinations either, 72 per dial dial...I took me a few weeks and quite some filament to get from a draft in Sketchup to something that actually works as planned.As it was more a training excersize in Sketchup for me I had the the following goals:1. Everything is 3D printed with as little afterwork as possible.2. All required springs are 3D printed as well as all other moving or stationary parts.3. Where otherwise fasteners or screws would be required only short leftovers of filament are used to keep the parts in place.Only exception for security reason is the mounts for the front dial and holder.These should be glued or screwed in place if the actual intention is to use it as a working lock.4. The lock shall not be pickable by means of felling, hearing or just trying out random combinations.The above points I got sorted to my satisfaction.However I would like some feedback from trustworth beta testers on the general design and functionality.It is one thing to design something that just works but a bit harder to design it the best possible way.Another big drawback currently is that it seems to be impossible to export proper STL files in Sketchup once they reach a certain complexity.Automatic services or programs to fix these issues result in drastically increased file sizes.Some of the problematic part go from just under 200kb to over 10mb after "fixed".This is not acceptable for me and I have to work on fixing this issue.Most slicers correct these tiny errors automatically and produce a correct print but I prefer proper STL files of small size and complexity over inflated ones that I then need to double check for a long anyways.A few details need changing as my tests showed that you can't drive up print details to a certain level without risking to be unable to mount the parts without further sanding.I hope to have a full set of clean STL files ready for testing by the end of this month.If you are interested to try it out and maybe contribute to an improved version your time will be valued by being mentioned as a beta tester for the upcoming Instructable.Be warned though!This is not for the faint of heart and certainly not for someone who does not know how to calibrate all aspects of the 3D printer involved.The lock also uses quite a bit of filament, currently around 37m all up but I am working on reducing this by replacing solid parts with framework instead where possible.The assembly can be time consuming and frustrating if you realise only once finnished that you have certain parts in the wrong position or orientation.But as said, my goals were not really on making it as easy as possible LOLWhy desing a lock that is neither secure enough nor free of metal parts if there is other options ;)If you happen to work with an Inventor and PLA on the left side then I can provide ready to go .gx files if prefered.They would then be already confirmed to be working and usable on one of my printers.Let me know what you think ...

Topic by Downunder35m   |  last reply


Why does electricity cause sparks?

Hi everyone! Why does electricity cause sparks? I have two scenarios in my mind, and i hope someone can provide me good answers. 1) I have seen on a lot of occasions, for instance the main transformers near my home, the wires sometimes keep sparking near the area where the wires are joined to it. Why does it spark? What is actually happening? And i do know that it might be caused by an overload or a short-circuit or stuff, i am not talking about what caused the sparking, but what is happening when one occurs. Why not just burst into flames, or heat red hot like a metal filament or something? 2) I have also observed sparks when, lets say i suddenly pull out the plug from the socket with the switch still ON, or sometimes even when i turn ON/OFF a switch driving a load. Why does this occur? 

Topic by charmquark   |  last reply


Choosing my 1st 3d printer

So I have been considering to purchaser my own home 3d printer for a while now, but I am not sure which go for as I am happy to spend around about 500Euros or so on a 3D printer but I would prefer one that can use at least 2 colours. I would mainly be using it to create still like little figurines and statues. I have enough skills in 3d modeling that I don't need a store or 3d model assets but that would be nice. tho I am use you can use any 3d model files that you can download online. I came across this one for $100 http://www.peachyprinter.com/#!methods/cjg9 I was using this website to look for affordable 3d printers http://www.hongkiat.com/blog/affordable-3d-printer/ But I guess what I also want to ask isn't just what are peoples suggest 3d printer to choose from but also what things should I look out for when buying one such as maybe special filament used or poor quality 3d prints noise problems or slow speed?? so any suggestions what ones to go for or what ones to stay away from Many thanks.

Topic by BolaGaming   |  last reply


Prusa i3 newly build first 3d printer all together cant test print confused

Hello all, I recently just purchased my first 3d printer. I bought a Prusa i3 newest model here is the link -> http://www.ebay.com/itm/271714170595?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName;=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT It is this model “LCD Screen Aurora Partilhada Model DIY Reprap Prusa I3 High Accuracy 3D printer” I put everything together by watching the movie and looking at the wire diagram, I followed the movie and the wire setup. Everything is hooked up correctly. When I power on my 3d printer it turns on but when I try to do a test print it says it doesn’t say its preheating and only gets up to 21 degrees the bed and extruder I believe. But it is always at these temps it doesn’t start at 0 and work its way up. So I am having issues getting the printer to run now. I installed the filament as it showed but I cannot print anything to test and make sure it works. What should I do? I would love to print anything like a test piece just so I know my printer is working! Then I can continue to learn 3d Modeling and make anything that I can think of. Thanks, ~Thebigbear~

Topic by thebigbear   |  last reply


Please Help for AutoLevel TronxyX5S

Hi, I apologize for the corrupt English first.I have a Tronxy X5S 3d printer. And I bought a sensor( SN04-N NPN) to add autolevel property to the printer. I thought I would be able to get rid of the small curves on the hotbed. I've arranged my commands according to autolevel as follows. But when I want to print a large shape, the extruder remains in the air at some points of the hotbed, print properly at some points, and at some points worth the hotbed(no filament output). So the autolevel property is not working properly. Can you help me? What am I doing wrong?My Marlin Configrution.h Changes//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -40 // X offset: -left +right [of the nozzle]#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 20 // Y offset: -front +behind [the nozzle]#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0.5 // Z offset: -below +above [the nozzle]//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////#define X_MIN_POS 0#define Y_MIN_POS 0#define Z_MIN_POS 0.6#define X_MAX_POS X_BED_SIZE#define Y_MAX_POS Y_BED_SIZE#define Z_MAX_POS 410//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////#define GRID_MAX_POINTS_X 7 #define GRID_MAX_POINTS_Y GRID_MAX_POINTS_X//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////Set the boundaries for probing (where the probe can reach). #define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (20)#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (280) #define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (40)#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION (320)************************************************** ***************************************My Repetier Host/CuraEngine Gcode Changes////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// G21G90M82M107G92 Z0G1 Z5G28G29G28 X0 Y0G28 Z0G1 Z15.0 F9000G92 E0G1 F200 E3G92 E0G1 F9000{IF_BED}M190 S{BED}{IF_EXT0}M109 T0 S{TEMP0}Please watch my problem

Topic by BurakD22