What is this? Bolt thingamajig?? Answered

What is this thing? I found this while hiking. It was half buried in the ground. It has two huge M20 Bolts, One is a left hand, And one is a right hand bolt. I suppose that it has soemthing to do with cars I have attached a couple pictures below. What is this?

Question by Yonatan24   |  last reply


Buying nuts and bolts? Answered

Can someone point me to somewhere where I can buy nuts and bolts? I need them to be up to a few cm long, and about small enough to fit through the hole in a TO-220 transistor.  I tend to use them a lot, not just for fixing transistors to heatsinks, but my local hardware stores don't have them Also, I'm looking for those small plastics bits (look like a very small and short bit of pipe) that fit into the TO-220 transistor's hole, before you put the bolt in, electrically isolating the transistor tab from the bolt and the heatsink.

Question by .Unknown.   |  last reply



Where to find 10-32 2-1/2 special bolts? Answered

I need a very wide head 10-32 bolt for a project I am working on, because a small head does not hold enough friction against my other part for my needs. The best solution I think would to get a 10-32 carriage bolt (2.5 inches long), but I cannot seem to find this anywhere. Is there a store anywhere that sells low quantity (I need about 5, but could settle for 10-50 if I needed), but I cannot seem to find a store that sells this apparently odd screw size...

Question by astroboy907   |  last reply


Bolt snapped off in flywheel, how to remove it?

Hi everyone. I was replacing the pressure plate in a nissan navara with a td27 engine. One of the bolts that holds the pressure plate to the flywheel broke. So we drilled a hole and used a easyout. However the drill bit wandered so the hole touches the side of the thread. As a result the easyout wont work. The hole barley scrapes the side so the thread only looks slightly damaged, but ok. Have also tryed getting a punch on the edge but that wont work either. Any ideas on how to remove it?

Question by David97   |  last reply


Is there any reason you can't keep a small floor safe on its back or side permanently?

I have a small fire safe that I want to secure, but the anchor hole is on the bottom and I have no way to secure it to the floor (apartment). I do have a way to anchor it to the wall, however.  Is there any reason I couldn't leave it permanently laying on its side or back, rather than upright like normal? Might be a stupid question, but I don't want to risk damage to an expensive unit. Thanks.

Question by El Mano   |  last reply


Torque settings for studs on nissan navara ( engine type td27) exhaust manifold?

The studs that bolt the exhaust manifold onto the engine on my dads nissan navara (year 1990) with a td27 engine have broken. The engine is un turbed. What are the stud torque settings for these bolts? Thanks. 

Question by David97   |  last reply


What do I do with millions of odd sized nuts, bolts, screws, stak-ons and other misc electrical supplies? Answered

Hey, My father has left me with a ton of different sized fasteners. There are so many different types i cant begin to start cataloging them. welding tips galore! most not marked. brass fitings. 8" Lag bolts" 2"Square washers? 10" Bolts!... ?"??? I do not know what to do with this stuff other than box it up and store it.. I cant bring myself to throw it all away.. I even went as far as contacting a couple of local hardware stores near me to see if they were interested in it.. should I just scrap it all? Im sure some of you would love to have some of this stuff..

Question by SlickSqueegie   |  last reply


Where can I get screws, nuts, bolts and other hardware most cheaply? Answered

I'm planning to build a car-top bike rack based on this gentleman's design: http://www.angelfire.com/vt2/tommymc3/BikeRack.html As I've been pricing materials, I'm pleased to find that the wood, pipe, tubing and conduit will cost me only about $20. I'll need to buy one tool (a rigid backsaw) for about $10.  I was hoping to get away with less than $100 out of pocket for a rack to hold four bikes, but then I hit the screw aisle. Picking out machine screws, nuts, and wing nuts for the uprights and jotting down prices, I hit almost $10 for those items alone.  Then I looked for galvanized angle brackets to attach the uprights to the base, and those plus the screws, etc to attach them were close to $35!  Once I started looking at U-bolts and other things I'd need to put the whole thing together, I got quite discouraged. So, is there a place to go where I can get those kinds of things at more of a discount?  I tried McMaster/Carr, but they sell only in bulk quantities.  Once I'm an old established tinkerer, I'm sure I'll have a workshop full of hardware bits that I can make work, but for now, I'm flummoxed.  Suggestions? Or am I just "screwed"? :-)

Question by yoyology   |  last reply


Left handed drills? Answered

I recently came across a youtube vid showing removal of a broken bolt with a left handed drill bit. Other than the removal of stubborn bolts and studs  why do they make left handed drill bits? Both my rather old mains drills and the pillar drill all turn clockwise for right handed drill bits. Only the cordless drill has a reverse function.

Question by rickharris   |  last reply


How do I remove rust from threaded hitch holes in a box frame? Answered

I have a 2002 Jeep Liberty and the correct hitch and mounting hardware (bolts and washers).  Unfortunately, the holes in the frame are very rusted from the 8 years of driving without a hitch.  I can't even get the bolts to seat properly.  I checked and made sure that they are the right bolts for the vehicle.  I tried a thread cleaner kit from a local garage but wasn't able to make any progress.  Soaked the holes with WD-40 but still no luck.  I can't put a nut and washer on the other side because it's a box frame.  I'm debating using a brass bristle brush on a drill to try to clean it out but that could ruin the threads.  Any ideas?

Question by connoljj   |  last reply


Molding Silicon? Answered

So I need to make some waterproof gaskets and I wondered if I could use silicon calk in a mold and then bolt it down to produce an airtight seal.

Question by jj.inc   |  last reply


So I came across this futon frame, the center always sags/folds no matter how hard I cinch the bolts; any suggestions?

The sag occurs where the futon pivots into a sofa. Underside bracing in the form of wood blocks underneath(something like a shim) were tried but any lateral movement of the bed knocked them out.  I reinforced the bolts with 1.5 inch washers but it still isn't doing the trick.  If anyone has a suggestion I would be much obliged, as I am considering just turning it into a coffee table and sleeping on the floor.

Question by StillLifeWblur   |  last reply


Loose multi tool fuctions? Answered

I got a multi tool for my b-day but the blades are very loose. How do I make them Tighter? there is no bolt just a rivet of sorts or pin.

Question by ilike2make   |  last reply


my friend has a old gun and i need to know what kind it is.

All i know about this gun is that it is bolt action, has iron sights and u can make them go from 50 yards to 300 yards. the most interesting thing is the safety mechanism.it has a loop on the back of the bolt action and u can put your finger in it and pull back, then twist, then let it slide back forward and that is how u take off the safety. it is wood and it looks like the clip will hold 5 shells. i do not know what shell it takes. thanks

Question by dbennett7   |  last reply


Need Help With AirGun?

Okay, I've made air rifles before but this is a little more complicated... This one is a replica of a M14 (kinda). It's going to be powered on C02 cartridges and all the insides are going to be hid. So how it's going to work, you insert a C02 cartridge and pull a lever and that will push the C02 into a pipe that has an airtight seal and will pop the foil on the cartridge. From there the air will flow to a "holding" chamber, on the end of the "holding" chamber there will be a button valve (http://tinyurl.com/4h3us6c), from the button valve the air will flow to a second "holding" chamber were there will be a home made piston type valve (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=No3nI07mlQo). Then you cock the bolt and a magazine or a single chamber (haven't decided yet) and a bullet type ammunition will be loaded in. The ammo has two parts (like a real one) the actual projectile and the casing, in the back of the casing there will be an air tight seal. A "tube" will be inserted when the bolt is pushed forward, and the seal will be made. So when you pull the trigger is pulled the piston will release the air from the second chamber and shoot the bullet out the barrel. So the shooting proses would cock the bolt, insert the bullet, close the bolt, press the button valve to release the "airlock" type chamber, and the pull the chamber. So what I need to know is how big do the two chambers have to be, what kind of velocity would I be able to achieve, and is this a good idea? Thanks for the help, Nick

Question by xZCodmaNZx 


How to adhere metal objects for a found objects robot sculpture?

Any suggestions for assembling found objects (cans, screws, bolts, etc.) robot sculptures?  Welding, soldering (if so, wattage for the iron?), other?  Total newbie, but I want to experiment.

Question by chris2365   |  last reply


I WANT TO JOIN TWO METAL COMPONENT WITHOUT NOT AND BOLT. I WANT TO JOIN THEM BY SOME SOLUTION?

TWO METAL SURFACES ARE ALUMINIUM AND STAINLESS STEEL. I WANI TO JOIN THEM WITHIN 1-2 MIN. OR SOLUTION CAN BE SOLIDIFY BY HEATING.IS THERE AY SOLUTION WHICH SOLIDIFY QUICKLY AFTER HEATING??

Question by ADITYA1991   |  last reply



What kind of drill bit do I use to drill into an outside brickwall.?

I want to  put up a bracket for a flag on the outside of the house, nowhere else to put it but into the brick.  How big a drill do I need, how long should the bolts be?

Question by Clemenza   |  last reply


AirDrop Irragation

Anyone  ever heard of this airdrop irrigation. http://www.jamesdysonaward.org/Projects/Project.aspx?ID=1722 Sounds pretty amazing, in the vid he talks about producing 1 liter h2o a day with a small one he build at home. I'm thinking the fan could be replaced with a sun pipe.

Topic by Arias Bolt 


plans for Converting a Portable Circular Saw Into a Table Saw?

I'm needing to use a table saw but only have a craftsman circular. I can't afford to buy a true table saw, but I've seen some people make a table and place the circular upside down, using bolts to attach it to the underside of the work surface on these home built tables.

Question by 123roberte   |  last reply


Good way for electroplating washers? Answered

Hello everybody...........Seem's i am in need of help from the brilliant mind's of this site again. My dad has been electroplating nut's & bolt's for the past 35 years & i decided to join for the time being(i have summer vacations going on) Recently some guy came to us for getting washer's electroplated,Issue being that the washer's won't get coated with nickel (with the Electroplating barrel).Some of them stick to each other(leading to one side of the Warsher's without nickel coating). These are so thin compared to the nut's and bolt's we are used to electroplate,That some of the washer's get bent. Need any suggestion,any alternative way to do them without much issues. Below are some pictures attached for referance Thanks in advance Regards ~HD~

Question by Bobblehead Einstein   |  last reply


What is this called and where can I get some? Answered

I'm looking to make a camera support shoulder rig with adjustable / fold away handled and I am trying to locate a component. It is similar to the image in the link below, but smaller as this one seems to be for a car... The idea is that two of them interlock with a bolt through the middle. Does anyone know what it is called? And even where I could get some from?  Many thanks :)

Question by lshoesmith   |  last reply


Go Kart - How do I secure the gear to the axle?

I bought a used go kart frame off craigslist, and I am repairing it. The problem is that the brake disc and the two gears for the motor spin freely on the rear left axle even when the wheel is not moving. How do I secure the gears to the axle? Do I use a bolt, or what? Thanks

Topic by sidmani   |  last reply


1999 dodge ram pick-up can't get the hood open, needs oil help

The guy i bought it from said the hood came up on him a few times, last time it busted the windshield and bent the hinges. He put 2 bolts in it to hold it down , i take the nuts off pull the latch in the cab and nothing happens. Can anyone tell me how to get it open from the outside. Thank You

Question by don cochran   |  last reply


How To Connect A Stepper Motor to Turn a Solar Panel

I want to use a stepper motor to turn a pipe or 2x2 piece of wood connected to a solar panel. I want this to be a direct drive system. No gears, no belts. I can't find an example showing how I can connect a stepper motor stem/bolt to a mount that it turns, though. I can see them connected in projects, they mysteriously leave out the details on the parts used and the details connecting it or they use gears/belts.

Question by blairr5   |  last reply


MY NUTS

WHATS UP IAM BUILDING  MY 4TH TALL BIKE.   2 OF THEM ARE 4 1/2 FT TO 5 FT TALL AND 1 IS 61/2 T 7 FT TALL I USED NUTS AND BOLTS ONLY NO WELDS AND BELIEVE IT OR NOT ALL THREE ARE HOLDNG TOGETHER VERY WELL ,I WANT TO GO UP 1O FT ON THIS NEXT ONE   BUT DONT WANNA PUSH THE LIMITS OF PHYSICS AND GRAVITY SO WHAT TYPE OF WELDER SHOULD I USE  TIG   MIG  ARC  I D K   

Question by GINOOO   |  last reply


i am making a friction drive motorbike Answered

I am make a direct friction drive motorbike with a bmx bike and a 25cc weedeater i am going to mount it on a hinge and i will use a spring to tighten down the spindle. the hinge is just some angle aluminium mounted to the two bottom holes of the engine. the aluminum is just connected two a bolt that goes over the brake cross section. the spring goes from the end of the angle aluminum to the wheel axle. is that enough or do i need more?

Question by BIGHAIRYDUDE   |  last reply


Hanging a pulley from the ceiling using electrical Strut for the purpose of overhead lifting.?

Hello out there, I am currently working on organizing my garage. Part of my organization project is to find a way to utilize the most available space possible. I am looking at hanging some items like a wheel barrow and a tow behind de-thatcher on the wall. My ceiling is 10ft high and I want to hang them as high up on the wall as possible. To help get the items up and down every time I need them, I plan on hanging block and tackles from the ceiling for each item. Unfortunenaly one of the items does not line up under a joist. To overcome this my plan is to hang a 20” pieces of shallow electrical strut (lagged in on each end to a joist) and then use a strut nut, 3/8 threaded eye bolt, and a strut washer(see picture for set up). Do you think that will hold? At MOST I would never lift anything heavier than 80lbs(and that would be a rarity). The average weight would be around 40lbs. For the items that do line up under a joist I was going to use a screw eye (I can’t access the top to through bolt it). The screw eyes I bought at the local hardware store have an SWL of 160lbs but say “not for overhead lifting”. Again using 80lbs as my max load, should I be worried about the “not for overhead lifting” label?

Question by Mpc1055   |  last reply


Idling/stalling problems on 1986 Ford F150

I'm driving my brother's 1986 Ford F150 4.9 V6.  It sat, unused, for about a year before I started usuing it, and he didn't perform any maintanence.  Got it running in February and the biggest issue was (and still is) the carburetor.  It's functional, but only barely (apparently there was some bolts missing on the breather that weighed it down and stripped some of the bolts on the carburetor).  I took it in to the shop, and they did what they could without actually changing out the carburetor (I don't have the money to buy a new one, still).   I was told by the mechanic to idle the engine for up to five minutes, depending on the weather, to warm the engine. It's been working okay, as best as can be, but no huge problems. But then the heat riser on the exhaust manifold broke off on Thursday (I borught it back to them to look at, they said the whole manifold would have to be replaced and it'd take 4-5 hours).  Again, broke, so can't afford the $500+ they quoted, though they said it'd noisy but okay to drive until then.  Then, starting about two days ago, the idling got kind of clunky and it will sometimes stall out if I'm stopped or idling for more than a minute or so.  When I'm driving, it's okay, but slowing or stopping it can idle (I know keep one foot on the brakes and the other periodically tapping the gas). I really don't want to go back to those mechanics again (I get the impression that they're taking advantage of me being a girl), and if there's something I can do myself, I'd like to.  If there's suggestions or input of any sort, I'd greatly appreciate it.

Question by Kaymrial   |  last reply


i need help fixing my bike, i just posted pictures

I was riding my bike doing stupid stuff, i tighted my bolts because my rim was loose i rode around and was just messin around some more and the axel and rim came part, started clanking, wobbling around alot and noticed it..pissed me off alot, was about a mile down the road and decided t ride it anyway, stuck in 6th gear, messed up wheel that makes it go slow do not work together, so i got it up as fast as i could and it was clanking, wobbling, and squeeking SO much...IM STILL PISSED OFF!!! Pictures soon.

Topic by Yerboogieman   |  last reply


Help loading a wide load onto a narrow trailer?

I'm looking for some ideas on how to get a small 1940's AC Combine (farm machinery) onto a trailer without having to dismantle it.  It weighs about 3000# so not too heavy but the 2 wheels are about 104" apart (wide) so they won't fir onto a normal deckover style trailer (96" wide).  Once I can get it on the trailer, I plan to set it down on blocks and chain it down.  The problem - how to get it ONTO the trailer. Seems I have 2 options - 1) rig up something to make the ramps and trailer wider (just for loading) OR 2) rig up something with wheels that will bolt to the axle BUT be narrow enough to fit onto the trailer ..... sort of like a dolly.  Option 2 presents a bit of a problem in making sure the "dolly wheels" clear the combine's axle since they'll be underneath it. Thanks for your advice/ideas.

Question by Bunchgrass   |  last reply


When and how to install cross-braces on a shelving unit?

Hi! I purchased an "industrial" shelving system that I will soon install in my home. Each unit will be separate and measures 7 feet high, 4 feet wide and 2 feet deep. Each will have 5 shelves that can hold 600 pounds each. They can be bolted or clipped, but I prefer to use the clips (unless instructed otherwise by a guru). I'm not going to put anything much heavier than books on them. I was assured by the seller that the units did not need bracings, but everyone else tells me otherwise. So what's YOUR take, fellow instructables member? How can you tell if a shelving system needs braces? If so, where do you put them? At the back back or on the sides? Full length (7' x 4') or any size but in the middle of the posts? Thank you very much!!

Question by John Mitchell   |  last reply


DIY Car Stereo Antenna?

Want to know if anyone has turned their roof rack into am/fm radio antenna or knows how? Not how to mount an antenna on a roof rack!!! I have a Jeep Liberty (2005), w\ (self) custom made aluminum roof rack. And I have 35ft of flexible/braided grounding strap to make internal run from roof-rack through and internally down to jeep frame if/as needed. **Concept Notes**  Outside rectangle frame is 1-1/2" (O.D.). I will rubber-coat all straight tube section then apply appropriate wire on to rubber and re-coat with rubber coating. I was then looking to slide slightly over-sized (I.D.) carbon fiber tubing over that. Ground and antenna wire will run through inside of rack turn down stanchion where bolts to roof. Rubber grommet to further insulate & protect wires. I want super reception AM & FM, little to no visible footprint, 1. What wire or such for antenna is best/appropriate? 2. Proper lay out antenna wire? ie., wrapped around primary insulated tubing or laid out length-wise.

Question by nickynite63   |  last reply


Children's Electric Car

I started to build a pedal car for my granddaughter and fell victim to "Project Creep". What started off as a simple, standard style pedal car modeled on a Type 59 Bugatti grew to a 6' long soapbox style car that will need an electric motor to move it.  I am a DIY guy and i have the plans, materials lists (it will be wood) and motivation.  What I don't have is a parts list for the electrical components nor do i have any idea how big the motor should be, e.g. 500W, 750W,750 gigawatts.  I wish there was just a kit that had all the components from accelerator pedals, gears, motor and a way to connect the whole thing to the 16" bicycle tires.  I don't need it to go 20MPH (she'll be 4 by the time I'm finished) but i don't want flimsy - i tend to overbuild things: why use two bolts when three will do? So, the question is what do i need and where do i get it - the first part is the most important.  I promise i will document the whole project with pics and words from concept to test drive - but i need help.   

Topic by RBaderG   |  last reply


Wall mount a non-VESA monitor?

I have an ASUS ML248H 24" monitor that I want to mount to higher to remove the footprint from my desk and to have a better viewing angle since I usually lean back so I have to look "down," compared to my body position, to look at it at the level of the desk. The problem is that it doesn't have any place to attach an off the shelf wall mount. The only place to attach anything to it is where the base/stand is connected, and it's a funny thing that would be really difficult to replicate (see picture) I've looked through many of the ibles in the subject and nothing seems quite right so any suggestions would be great. The only thing I can think of so far is to use the vertical part of the original stand which would add a couple inches to the depth and act like a lever, multiplying the weight on any thing holding up the monitor, but adds more options for attaching stuff in the form of one vertically oriented bolt hole at the opposite end of the one that attaches the bracket to the monitor, as well as four smaller holes at roughly 30  degrees to horizontal (see pic #2) I was thinking of something like a pipe coming up off the desk or out of the wall but can't figure out how to connect the two pieces so that I can still have swivel and tilt adjustment.

Question by siamonsez   |  last reply


HHO generator improves fuel efficiency of petrol engine!

Reproduced verbatim from The Fortean Times issue 249, republishing from FT35JUNE 1979On the 15th a demonstration of a "revolutionary" energy device took place at an undisclosed location in the UK. Iowerth Thomas, 58 a Welsh inventor, hoped to interest both government energy officials and an Arab consortium. Mr Thomas had been experimenting since 1936 with ways to make petrol engines burn more efficiently. His "bolt-on" device promised between 25 and 40 per cent efficiency using "the electrolysis of tap water", plus a cleaner exhaust. The government scientists' response - that it was impossible - spurred Mr Thomas to demonstrate it for them. He reported to the motoring correspondent of the Daily Telegraph that his stationary engine ran for 112 seconds with his device and for 77 seconds on the same amount of petrol without it. The usual objection to electrolytic systems is that the energy needed to run them is greater than that produced. With some sarcasm, New Scientist sniffed that the device needed to be much smaller than the room-size contraption Jones used. What really stoked their scorn was Thomas's reply when asked how it worked: "It's beyond me," he said. That was the last we heard of him and his promising device.How has this technology improved in the last 30 years?L

Topic by lemonie   |  last reply


How to stretch holes in a steel frame?

I ran into a glitch in rehabing an old park bench.  The wooden slats were rotted out, so I'm saving the wrought iron end frames and fitting them with new poplar slats.  I included a mid-project picture below of one of the end frames. I don't know if you can notice from the picture, the holes in the frame for mounting the slats were not in a straight line, but rather haphazardly.  So each board needs to be custom-drilled to match the mounting holes in the frames. Problem is, I originally measured the distance between the bolts on one of the old slats and used that measurement to drill ALL the new (expensive) hardwood boards.  I had made the careless assumption that the holes in the frames would be in a straight line. Never assume good workmanship! After drilling the slats, I applied about 5 coats of clear urethane spar varnish.  The new slats look supreme, and I don't want to zorkk them up by drilling a second hole in each board to match the stupid end frames.  So the only way out of the quagmire I can see is to drill the frame to match the boards.  OK! Problem is, most of the new holes in the frames would intersect the old holes, and I know that drilling an intersecting hole is problematic, especially in 3/16" steel.  So I need advice on how to stretch holes in steel into an oval shape.  I'm thinking some sort of router bit, or a grinding bit that I could use with a hand drill. Suggestions?  Thanks.

Question by LesB   |  last reply


welding steel near aluminum, insert wisdom here!? Answered

I have 2 pieces of aluminum that make up a kind of finger hinge.  The two sections are each 3/4" wide pipe each ending in finger joints with a hole drilled through the fingers.  A cotter pin has been used as the hinge pin during the mock up, but now a permanent hinge pin is required and due to space regulations it must be very flush and end on either side with a flat round, similar to a nails head (striking surface).  I was going to merely insert a nail, then put a tightly fitting washer over the other end, and briefly mig weld the end of the nail protruding through the washer too the washer.  The opposite end will have a small thin piece of cardboard as a temporary spacer to ensure a snug but not too tight of fit.  Of course the rest of the aluminum will be shielded from weld spatter.  The weld would then be ground flush.  There will not be a lot of tension put on this weld, but some minor vibration. There will 5 of these pipe section with 3 joints per section each, they will be very close together and require the ability to move independently from each other, so no shared pins. Will a very brief weld cause the pin/nail to heat up to a point that it causes the surrounding aluminum to melt and "horribly" cause the 2 joints to fuse? The 3/4 span is much to wide for a pop rivet and would have to much of a bump on the sides. Bolt and nut would also have to much of a bump, and introduces the destructive effects of a steel thread running through an aluminum body. Philadelphia screws are just too wide for this application Actually peening a real rivet will put to much stress on the aluminum pieces. No I do not have the means to weld aluminum, as this is a solder core wire feed welder, not a true mig. Any suggestions?  I have done similar welds before, but all pieces were steel, not mixed.

Question by iminthebathroom   |  last reply


How I turned my Huffy BMX into a great stunt machine- and a question about decals

An ongoing project- the lost Huffy.chapter 1- Why people will think this is funnychapter 2- How I got itchapter 3- How I did itchapter 4- a questionChpt 1- Why people will think this is funny-Huffy is known(alledged) to be a cheap crummy Wal-Mart bicycle. I have a limited budget. I turn cheap crummy Wal-Mart bicycles(alledged) into great stunt bicycles.Chpt 2- How I got it-I was riding my bike, a six speed automatic, to school, and saw something reflect as I went by the weeds. I stopped, because I go the route almost every day and never saw anything reflect, and what should it be, but the most destroyed Huffy Rock-It I have ever seen in my entire life. I went on to school, as I was runnimg late and don't have a cell phone(I don't want a tumor). At lunch, I came back. I went into the Snak-Shak, and called the sheriff using a pay phone. Well, I waited. And waited. Lunch ended, so I left a note with my contact info at the scene, and left. At three, I came back. It was still there, note and all. I went home. Waited. No phone call from police saying they found the owner, nothing. Seven o'clock. I hitched a ride with my neighbors, over to the scene, and I got the bike.Chpt 3- How I did it- The handlebars were bent back at the stem in a 90 degree angle. I took them off, easily, because they were so busted that all I had to do was jiggle them a little, and they came off. After several attempts at riding without a handlebar, I got one off another frame I have. They wouldn't work. So I got the handlebars off another project(that failed)- an older Next Wipe Out that had been run over, bent frame. I put them on, and they worked great, apart from some adjustment issues- the rusted bolt needs replaced. I aired up the tires, and sat down. Painfully. Old Huffy seat, narrow as heck. I left it on there for for a while. Then, I thought, and thought, and finally asked what I should name it. So, Phoenix, arisen from the ashes of destruction, was about to be made into a really good bike. I recently replaced the seat with a plush, comfortable seat from a brand new (yet busted, due to cheap manufacture) Mongoose Rebel, but for the sake of the budget, the Bell "Little Rider" seat is as good or better than the seat I used. I only used that seat because our Wal-Mart sold out. I rode around, and it worked out great with the parts I had so carefully picked out. Things still need to be replaced, like my front tire, shaped about like this- ), and the pedals, I'll use the Wal-Mart kind. Pegs, also from the Wal-Mart, but I personally don't want pegs, as people tend to jump on the back of my bikes as they are, with no pegs, and I don't do those kinds of stunts. It rides great, except some things need a bit of oil, and just yesterday I adjusted the chain incorrectly, and now I'm in lots of pain from it locking up and throwing me off. But I fixed that, and am thinking about stenciling her name onto the frame.Chpt 4- A question-How do you get the decals off the frame? I sat there with a hair drier for about an hour and got a quarter of one off, but that's to slow, and is very uncomfortable. I want to stencil her name onto her.

Topic by extremegtafan   |  last reply


Washing machine door won't open - possible solutions!

If you have a front loader and found this then most likely you are currently unable to get your washing out of the machine.Welcome to the club!Here is what happened to me, skip this bit if you like:The washing finnished, I try to open the door but nothing.Ok, maybe some electrical bugger somewhere, so knock it a few times but still no go.Mind you that I am in AU now but a long time ago I took my European machine with me - not knowing there won't be any service down here.A quick search on my model and the problem informed me that either the electrical safety lock is faulty or the handle part is broken.The solution to open the door as suggested by the official support:Take the damn thing apart until you get the front off.Unscrew the lock from the inde and then investigate the actual problem.Well, lets just say I was not in the mood to dismantle the entire thing just to open the door, so here is how I did it:Part two: Options to open the door if the handle won't do the trick:Most front loaders are designed to make thing complicated when it comes to the door mechanism.It is considered a safety thing, so tempering from the outside shall be prevented.A faulty electrical lock is rare but I will try this a bit further down.Almost all front loaders use a hook like pin in the door.And once the power was off for a few minutes the safty lock will disengage - if not look further down this text ;)But since the cover is screwed on from the inside of the door you can't get easy access to this locking pin.In some cases you can be lucky and if you look from the side you can see it - if so then try something flat enough (but sturdy) to press it towards the center of the door.For me the problem was the cover really covered it all :(I used some strong, braided fishing line instead to pull on the hook pin.Take a lenght to go all around the door, push the line in where the handle is and guide it around the door.Take both ends together and pull - the door pops open.Be aware though that fishing line can cut into your fingers, so make a loop and a wooden handle or so instead of your fingers ;)Part three: The door is open - what now??Well, if you managed to open the door during part two already then your handle part is clearly broken somewhere.At the hinge should be two (or four) screws with heads that are different to the rest - if in doubt aim for those closest to the hinge.Remove them while supporting the door!Once the screw are out you should be able to get the door off with a bit of wiggling and different opening angles.If not put the screws back in and remove all others first to take the front cover off while you attempt to get the door off.The handle part isusually fixed with screws that hold the cover, so it should come out once all is seperated.With some luck you find a part number on it somewhere on the back, if not check your prefered supplier for a spare.Part four: To repair or to not repair?You might notice that with just the actual locking pin and its frame that screws into the door all would work fine.If really just the handle part is broken while the stronger part for the screws and actual pin is fine:Consider leaving the handle off until you get a spare.The door can be mounted without the actual handle but you need to take the framework apart.Once done you should only have a basic frame to screw into the door with the hook in it but the actual handle is gone.And without the handle you have easy access to the pin - you can even push it with your finger to open the door...But as said, in my case the frame for the door cover blocked this bit too much.For the first wash I used a popstickle stick as it was thin enough...If no spares are available anymore and repairing the broken plasic is not an option either:Part five: For the desperate - modified locking pin.I have seen people placing a bolt into the front of the machine and then literally screwing the door close.The safety was then just bridged of course...This however is not recommended and a bad idea anyway.Much better is to be creative and to use some spare metal or strong plastic like Delrin.Fibreglass re-inforced plastic like from an old sewer box is great too but a pain in terms of protective gear while cutting, drilling and sanding.Either way you should now see the resulting parts of your accident scene.And this of course only works if at least the frame for the pin itself is still intact.The mechnism in the original is a double lever - you pull the handle away from the door and the pin is "rotated" over its pin to move away from the lock.Take the actual locking pin out, trace its shape and on the drawing add a suitable "extension that you can press down (on the outside of the door).In the most basic form a simple straight lever going away from the machine at a 30° angle will do.Cut a cardboard sample to check if you really have enough free movement.If all is good create a copy in the right thickness and put it all back togehter without the broken handle.To open the machine you then just press the lever towards the machine and the door pops open.

Topic by Downunder35m