Zapping bricks

I zapped a common red brick with a very powerful beam of light. Here is a picture where you can see the area that was melted. The melted area was actually so hot, it was bubbling! I’m wondering if I should make an Instructable... or is this just too dangerous. OMG anyone?? ~Bob~

Topic by ShutterBugger   |  last reply


Brick floor?

I'm Yeti-gone-awry! I want to rebuild my shop and to put in a new floor or have one poured would cost about $1300.00 of which I'm a little short of. I was in Colonial Williamsburg last week and in the Blacksmith shop I noticed they had a brick floor. The bricks were laid close together. I have bricks, a lot of bricks. I could lay down a layer of gravel then a layer of sand and then put the bricks in, but should I lay them next to each other w/o spaces between them or lay them a 1/2 inch apart on all sides and sweep in mortar mix between them and wet them down? I know that if I bring in a milling machine I'll have to pour a thick pad for it. Thank you. Chuck

Question by Yetigonawry   |  last reply


Please help me help them...

I am in serious NEED of information on HOW TO TURN PLASTIC WATER BOTTLES INTO SMALL BRICKS, BLOCKS, TUBES. I am moving to a very poor island where I need to bring this process to the islanders. The horrible poverty is now compounded even worse by all the plastic on the island that that has NO WHERE to go (the government does nothing). If I can find a way to do the above, in a very small, rough manner (IE: men using machetes' to chop up bottles) it will IMPROVE THE LIVES OF THOUSANDS OF HURTING PEOPLE. Thank you in advance for helping me to help them....I will take ALL I CAN GET. Selling my lake home in Wisconsin this summer and will be gone for good by Fall 2009. Give me something to take with me by then....OK? Ma Barley

Topic by scubagal   |  last reply


Faux corner fireplace surround with landscape bricks?

Any thoughts on creating a corner surround for one of those electric or gel pack, *ventless* fireplace inserts...using landscape brick? I was thinking: create frame for insert with 2x4s (I have a ton of them laying around) ...I have a nice, *natural*, hunk of wood for the top already but I was trying to come up with something SUPER easy for making the front look nice: landscape block? I see many nice looking structures built of just stacked up landscape blocks and what? are they GLUED together? Just stacked up with like a row on the bottom/front for a hearth? I am sure doing it in the middle of a wall instead of having to cut blocks for a corner would be easier but the way my windows are, the only place I can do it is in a corner as I am putting the TV on it and we have cut block in the past so we can do that part of it :)  I tried to find some examples on the internet and here at Instructables and haven't seen anyone try this yet.... Any thoughts anyone?

Question by kellyndiy   |  last reply


Is this a good design for a forge? Answered

I'm wanting to make a forge, and i have 20 extra bricks, so i was thiknking of making a forge out of brick, following this idea i had in this image. If i made it it would be about 35in by 35in and i havn'e decided on the height. It would use a poured concrete base, I chose brick over making the whole thing out of concrete because i thought it would be stronger. But idk

Question by snowluck2345   |  last reply


What to use for a small crucible?

I want to make a small backyard aluminium foundry, but I don't know what to use as a crucible. I've seen soup cans, but it says they rust away, and ceramic shatters. I've also seen things like the bottom half of a propane/co2 canister, but I don't have thing like angle grinders to cut it open.  Also, how would I make the foundry? I was thinking of laying down fire bricks in a pattern like this: (from top, looking down) []==== []  O []===O < blower ====[] with mud to fill in the cracks. Would this work? Thanks, josh1324 PS. The two []'s and four ='s are just one brick.

Question by josh1324   |  last reply


What kind of drill bit do I use to drill into an outside brickwall.?

I want to  put up a bracket for a flag on the outside of the house, nowhere else to put it but into the brick.  How big a drill do I need, how long should the bolts be?

Question by Clemenza   |  last reply


how hot is a laser cutter beam? Answered

How hot is a laser cutter beam? I was thinking of using a magnifying glass and the sun to burn into metal or stone.  And when I say magnifying glass I meant using a giant frens lense Overall my goal is to carve into metal, stone or brick.

Question by Houdinipeter   |  last reply


Smash atoms with Lego!

... or at least detect the debris of smashed particles with Lego: The LHC scientists do not yet have enough data to claim a discovery. But in the meantime, at home in Copenhagen, one physicist Sascha Mehlhase from the Niels Bohr Institute has made a part of the collider, the Atlas detector, out of LEGO toy bricks. »It took me about 48 hours to build the 3D model on my laptop and another 33 hours to actually put together all the pieces, this whole process spread out over several weeks,« explains Sascha. The model is made of 9,500 lego bricks and is about 1:50 in scale. There is no construction manual yet, but there will soon be one, he says on his website. The model is very intricate, even showing the innermost pixel detector. University Post article. Gallery of images.

Topic by Kiteman   |  last reply


does anyone know about, chemistry, bircks and metals? Answered

umm, i was resently being bored with an arc welder (not a safe thing) and amzed to find that if you put enough energy into a normal red brick that it will chemicly start to decompose, it left a large area missing and with a grey almost glass like surface in the area with the most abuse, (this i can understand) the thing that i found that was odd about this was when i lookd at the small colection of metal that formed when it cooled, the main thing in it is iron (i was using an arc welder with normal rods and an iron rod) but i appears to have an almost flaking metal surounding it, its not impusitys that u normal get when weldin, it has an irridesent purple colour to it and is problaby made up from something in the brick. any ideas?

Question by thelastonekills   |  last reply


I want to do some wood fired pottery anyone know a good clay for this I dont want my piece to crack ?

I am actually trying to fire my pottery in a metal trash can/ brick rig any suggestions either about type of clay or different make shift kiln would be great

Question by emmli2oo4   |  last reply


Riding lawn mower blows exhaust thru carb after start. Decompression mechanism is not disengaging. Any ideas why?

I have a riding lawn mower that hit a brick.  It's a briggs 17.5 engine, now it blows exhaust through the carb after start, the decompression mechanism is not disengaging.  I disassembled the engine and deactivated the decompression mechanism and the engine runs normal but needs a jump start from my truck battery.  It is disassembled again, can't find anything wrong.  Any ideas?

Question by Rich4757   |  last reply


How do I sweep a chimney?

I'm not even sure if my chimney needs to be swept, but I've got a cord or so of seasoned firewood and a fireplace, I just want to make sure everything is in good order before I start running my fireplace regularly. I've got a basement and main floor fireplace, both share the same chimney and both are the original brick fireplaces built into the house in in I'm guessing the 50's or 60's The instructables hive mind knows just about everything, so what can you tell me?

Question by armourkris   |  last reply


how do i get manganese metal from manganese dioxide? Answered

Hello, I have a very large amount of manganese dioxide, which i wish to turn into manganese metal, however, i have a problem with reducing it with carbon, which is that i dont have a furnace, or even the materials for a makeshift one, as i found out all the bricks that are sold in this state, are all sand or cement, no clay, not even at the hardware store. I was wondering, if there is any way for me to get manganese metal other than reducing with carbon, such as electrolysis of manganese in some soluble form. thanks

Question by oldmanbeefjerky   |  last reply


Sound proofing a small room for cheap?

I said i would help my sister transform the old office in the garden for her to use as a chilling room with her mates, there going to be drinking and be loud so we wanna sound proof the room, the problem is its quite a small room so hanging blankets will make it smaller, and its already contructed from standards bricks so we cant get it propperly sound proofed... is there a way that doesnt take up much space and will look nice? we've also got a single glassed window in there that lets alot of sound out, is there anyway to prevent this without getting double glassing?? on a tight budget 

Question by Chumlee   |  last reply


To all Bike riders/cyclists/commuters: What do you ride?

I ride a 2000 MGX DxR [yes, the crappy, chinese, walmart version] to work every day, road commuting. I also ride it off-road, singletrack, streams, washboards, you-name-it-I've-ridden-it, with no issues. thus far, I have put around 19,000 miles on it, all told. totally original [otherthan tubes, tires, chain, cassette, brakes, etc] parts, still weighs 38 pounds. Anybody else ride something as cheap and inappropriate as commuter? What do you ride every day? any bikes you'd LOVE to have? Any funny bike stories? Cheers,    B.E. 'Brick' Montgomery 

Topic by Hazzard2theworld911   |  last reply


Electric Arc Furnace?

I'm trying to make a furnace that can melt metal.  I've done a lot of thinking on it, and I decided that I'm going to make an Electric arc furnace for a multitude of reasons. I plan to use an arc welder as the power supply, with two carbon rods as the electrodes, creating an arc just above the crucible to melt the metal. I was wondering if anyone has done anything like this before?  I plan to have the furnace body made out of firebrick and refractory cement. Would this pose any problems? Also, how much strain does this put on a welder? Will it need to be shut off after a while due to overheating, or can it sustain it's own? Finally, How much power does a typical arc welder use? (in terms of watts) 

Question by tylervitale   |  last reply


would this heater in my sheds future false ceiling be a good idea?

I've come up with an idea for a heater in my sheds future false ceiling. Its basically a wooden box with an unmodified hairdryer attached and four PC fans blowing the warm air down each of the 4 clothes dryer hoses to vents roughly at floor level. I've seen one ibble where the heating element and motor were removed and used but don't fancy that idea too much. The shed is brick with a reinforced concrete roof and gets extremly cold in winter. The false ceiling will be around 10 inches from the concrete to allow for the stone 9inch mantle above the window and door and gas pipe. The gas pipe is capped and don't want a boiller in a confined work space . Here is a plan of the heater (excuse the odd looking hairdryer) Forgot to mention the widhth and length are f 7ft x 6ft and the height is 7ft.

Question by cyberraxx   |  last reply


Where can i get furniture style pvc fittings in the UK?

I see so many good things about PVC pipe used for building things. In America you seem to be able to get lots of sizes of pipe and specialist fittings. In the UK  in bricks and mortar stores we are limited to just plumbing supplies. ie 21mm 32mm and 40mm pipe - we cant get corner 3 way fittings, 4 or  way, or any of the many pipe termination specials. I have a project in mind for which 25mm pipe would be ideal, but i need 5-way connectors, as well as some simple end teminations that push INTO the pipes not OVER the end. I have googled until my fingertips bleed but can only find this supplier in the UK http://www.ixi-devices.com/index.php/PVC-Structure-Connectors-Fittings-Clamps-and-Kits/View-all-products/Page-7 Frankly the prices are ridiculous - almost 6 times the equivalent US price - what goes for $1 in the states is around £4 in the UK thats just nonsense. Does anyone know any UK or even European outlet that will sell smallish quantities to me in the UK without these prices and without astronomical shipping and import charges? Help please.

Question by Brandlin   |  last reply


building cinderblock wall... questions questions questions

I'm considering building a small cinderblock wall off of an existing concrete slab.  I have very little clue what I'm doing, but I'm a fast learner. Question #1: Do I need rebar to hold the blocks, or is mortar mix enough?  They won't be "weight bearing" as it will only be a partial wall around 3' tall.  If I do need rebar... hammer drill? all the way through slab? pound rebar in?  Note that the blocks will be just about flush with the edge of the slab. Question #2: The area I want to create a wall for is covered with a roof (four- 4"x4" posts, about 10' x 12'... roof is around 12' high) so the blocks will butt up right next to wooden posts... is this kosher? I guess in my mind, this precludes a cornerstone, and makes the courses hard to offset (I don't know what to call that... the center of the second course blocks sit on the edges of the bottom course blocks), and what is a good way join block to wood? Question #3: Can I use the small blocks (4x8x16) or will they just topple over (see question #1 again), and if I should use the normal cinder blocks, how do I make a corner with 4x4 posts already there? ...likely more questions to come :)

Question by OtisDrftwood   |  last reply


Make Cement From Scratch? Answered

I have spent a great deal of time working on this question yet, I have no solid answer to go on.  I tend to enjoy acquiring a skill set which would be very useful come TEOTWAWKI (the end of the world as we know it).  I am far from a prepper, however I still entertain a slight possibility and see no problem with learning how to do a little more than cope. These skills extend from knowing where to grow, gather, and how to store penicillin to simple things like a yeast starter 100% from scratch.  Brewing and distilling are also handy because it makes a great trade item.  These are all things you never see in the Walking Dead or any other TEOTWAWKI cinema.  One of the more important skills I believe would be conjuring fortress walls from rocks in the form of a little thing we know as concrete which we all take for granted.  Now I could mix portland cement and filler with some water all day long and make a pretty cool fortess, but seriously.  All the home depots in my state wouldn't have enough quick rite for that.  So today I wan't to know what general rocks and minerals (that you can find in nature) can you combine to make cement.  I know there are all kinds of fancy names for these, but what I really need is some good old generalities.  Tell me to go outside grab a handful of clayish dirt, but it in a kiln with some lime and grind it up.  I'm not looking for top of the line stuff here, this just needs to be able to hold a general form for a few years and be a little bullet resistant.  This is for a crude fort, not the tallest building in the world or the hoover dam.  A simple mortar would also be nice, although there really aren't any stones around to put together, bricks aren't super hard to make with as much clay as we have in our soil. So join me and maybe I will put together an instructible on all the skills you actually need but don't have!

Question by jj.inc   |  last reply


Looking for a Gear Set for 3D printing

A little over a decade ago I spent a large amount of time playing with lego technics. These mechanical legos had a set of gears with them that you could arrange in infinite variations and I loved them (still do.) What I would really like is file with a standard set of small gears that I could easily place into a 3D model and design around just like building something out of technics. The difference being that I get to design the parts connecting the gears instead of using lego bricks. These gears would ideally range in size from 5mm to 30mm diameter and would ultimately be used to make 8 inch or smaller robot things. Now, the obvious solution is to just make them, Inventor has a generator and they can be drawn in almost any program. The thing is that, well, it is over my head. I've used a lot of Sketchup, but am just getting into Inventor and 123D. Also, it turns out gears are incredibly complicated. I've looked at the diagrams and between the pitch diameters and diameter pitches and pressure angles I get lost, I'm not even sure where to start. On top of that, in my research I haven't found any kind of standard like there are with screws and electrical components; one can't just call the robot store and say "gimme some A5 gears good sir." So my questions are: 1. Is there a simple standard for gears? Specifically small plastic gears like those found in toys and clocks. 2. Do you have any advice on how I could go about creating my own "standard" set of small gears, like most important factors or common pitfalls, a magic button? 3. Am I going about this in a weird, round-about, wrong way? I'm learning as I go with 3D modeling/printing and I often fall down rabbit holes, this may be one. How would a professional engineer who is designing a toy go about choosing or creating his gears? Thanks in advance for any insight you can lend. These are the lego technic gears that are so dear to my heart

Topic by Tomdf   |  last reply


i need help designing a coal furnace to reach tempuratures over 1300 celcius

Hello, after remembering my trip to sovereighn hill when i was 10, and remembering learning how gold bars were made during the gold rush, seeing that a small wood / coal powerd furnace( 1 Metre high 0.7 metres wide) made from clay , was capable of melting gold (melting point 1060 celcius), and having long discusions with my friend as to what method we were to take , in building a sodium furnace, i sugested we build a furnace and make our sodium metal using the deville process involving boiling sodium carbonate and carbon together then passing the metal and monoxide gas through oil. and we agreed on this as we could smelt metals with it also, make grinding media ect, and it would be cheaper than using propane. now that i have decided to make this furnace, based on what i saw when i was 10, i need help designing it correctly, so that it acheives tempuratures in exess of 1300C, the one at sovereigh hill i was told could reach 1500C. at the moment, my idea is that i can build the furnace 1M high and 50cm wide (roughly ), out of bricks and mortar, then fuel it with coal, eventually after being pre ignited by wood. at the base, i plan on having a small vent which i will pump air into using a small inflatable matress inflator, to supp,y the furnace with air. at the top it will have a small round hole in which i will insert things to smelt, which lie inside a ceramic pot .in the case of making sodium via deville proccess, it would have a steel pipe sealed off at the base, reduced at the top running nto a deep cooled oil bath also at the top, there would be two small vents to allow air flow as there air must go somewhere being pumped in. what i need to know, is if htis will work, and if i need to place my ceramic pot right inside the furnace, or just partially in it, as in the diagram of my design. i am asking all this as i have no idea if it will work at this small size, and because i have little experience or knowledge of the potential tempuratures that can be acheived.

Question by oldmanbeefjerky 


"Sonic" drilling or cutting

If we look up sonic drills today we usually get some fancy machines driving pipes in the ground, preferably softer ground.But the term includes all types of machines that use sonic vibrations to advance through a media.With the ancient and claimed to have never existed technologies in mind I did some digging...In the food industry vibrating knifes are quite common, same for "air knifes" on softer food.Even in the meat industry they find more and more uses now.Ultrasonic cutting or welding is the same thing and included in "sonic".Same for some experimental sub sonic drilling methods currently being tested.The general idea might be as old as using vibrating equippment to compact stuff, like concrete, bricks and so on.What you can compact by vibration you can also make "fluid" by vibration.Industrial feeder systems utilise this to the extreme by even making light and fine particles like flour move like water without causing any dusting.What all the techniques have in common that a suitable tool or tool head is used and that it is attempted to use the most suitable vibration frequency for the job.Anyone operating an ultrasonic welder knows the pain of finetuning for a new electrode or just new part to be welded.What does that tell us now that makes the understanding easier?Take a bottle of ketchup, preferably one that is still quite full.Turn it upside down and noothing comes out.Shake it a bit and you are either lucky or drowned in red.But hold it at an angle and start tapping it and the red sauce flows out easily.What it true for most newtonian fluids is in some way also true for non-newtonian fluids.Ever mixed corn starch and water to make these funny experiments with it?Hit it hard and it reacts really hard and is not sticky at all.Leave your hand resting on it and in sinks in and sticks to it.Stirring it very slowly is easy, go faster and you get stuck.You can do similar things with by using an external source for vibrations.For example a vibration speaker mounted to a smal cup of the goo.If you place sand on a sloped piece of plastic or sheet metal then at a low angle it will pile up easy and stay.Start vibrating the plate and the sand will start to flow off.Works fine with a vibration source mounted to a piece of steel bar or rod and a bucket of sand too.Trying to press it into the sand requires a lot of force, especially once you are a bit deeper.Let it vibrate properly and it slides rights down.If we can do the simple stuff as well as really complicated stuff in the industry then what about other materials?So far we use vibrations to make things move out of the way, compact things, transport them or to heat them up for welding plus some cutting applications.Considering the variety one might wonder why no one tries it for "difficult" materials.Machined surface can be found throughout ancient history.Finding "machined things" were vibrations was clearly used is a bit harder.The great walls are not a perfect example here as the views differ quite a bit on how they could have been created.But if we leave things melting them or a secret concret like recipe for creating for example granite then vibrations start to make some sense.You find some interesting videos on youtube where people use speakers, wires and rocks to confirm you can actually "machine" them by vibrations.Especially granite has some quite musical properties, big boulders as well as smaller ones produce destinct sounds when you hit them hard.Tests and measurements were made on granite and other hard rocks to check how fast sound travels in them , how it is refeclted and where the sound comes out or affects the surface the most.Lets just say every sample gave different results.Shape, density and dimensions affect not just the resonant frequency but also where and how the sound travels in the rock.What if??We can use a simple speaker, a plate and some rice to see how patterns form under various frequencies.Works with sand or other granules as well.The interesting patterns are the so called harmoncis.Here we see clear and destinct patters, sometimes with extremely fine lines and areas of softly vibrating granules.Some people say these harmonic frequencies have all special meanings and uses.We mainly used them to avoid problems.Imagine your new TV would not have a housing tested to be stable with all frequencies the speakers can produce.All of a sudden your back of the TV might start to rattle ;)Same for car engines.Harmonic vibrations are eliminated wherever possible.Otherwise they could multiply and affect other things in the engine or around it.Simply put it means we have various options to detect and measure vibrations on a surface or in a system.Back in the day every half decent backup generator had a mechanical indicator for the frequency of the supplied electricity.A set of tiny forks with the desired on painted red and several on either side of it.These forks were designed to get into harmonic and therfor quite intense vibrations at their set frequency.If the one for 50Hz looked blurry then all was good ;)The same principle god be applied on a big boulder of granite.Place the "vibration meter" at the desired spot and start moving around the vibration source on the surface until you find a spot that causes maximum response on the meter.Best thing here is that if you then place that surface area onto another peice of fixed in place granite both pieces will start to loose substance if vibrations are applied.The fine sediment forming is then usable as an indicator where to move the vibration source to continue once the effect literally wears off.Is it feasable?Well, if we trust mainstream science then the answer is no.A huge amount of vibration energy would be required for such a hard material, despite ancient proof that says otherwise.Semi industrial test also seemed to confirm the theory as only with very high amplitudes (loudness) and while automatically adjusting for the resonant frequency changes a measurable amount of material was removed.I struggle a bit with that as for the testing tool heads made from hardened steel or carbide were used.And that with little or no regards on how the head and tool itself affects the output.I mean in terms of having the max possible movement happening right t the tool contact surface!There is a huge difference between applying a vibration to a tool and using a system, tool and tool head DESIGNED to work at the desired frequency!Otherwise we wouldn't need a computer to design and test a horn for welding purposes or shade a knife spefically so that the vibration go along the right axis and in the right direction.You not break a hard thing with a very soft thing unless it travels fast enough to become harder as the target!This complicated explanation basically just confirms that if you hit water at a too high speed then it will just break you into pieces instead of offering a soft splashPlease do not jump of bridges or such to confirm this yourself!!If that is really true and science says it is, then how about the other way around?Works fine too, or we wouldn't have pressure washers or water cutters.Now for the part where I hope some really smart people leave helpful comments:If we can cut steel with just a stream of water, then I ask:Isn't for example copper much harder than water?Steel is much harder than copper but water cuts through it.The answer here it simple or complicated, depending on how you want to expain how it works.Comes down to speed and pressure plus the right nozzle shape to prevent a beam expansion.But then water is indeed "harder than steel".Questions:Lets say we would use a copper pipe that in lenght, thickness, hardness and diameter is optimised to transmit a frequency so the pipe end sees the max vibration like a feed horn for ultrasonic welding.Not to hard to calculate these days :)Now imagine said "main frequency" would be optimised for the pipe but also be a harmonic frequency of the rock to be worked on.The pipe end would deform quickly, abrasion does the rest and it fails before even making a decent sratch that is not copper metal on granite.No matter how hard we press nothing good enough will ever happen.BUT: If we would add more hormainc frequencies to feed our pipe we can multiply the amplitude quite easy!Just try with a sound generator from your app store, needs 2 or more channels to be usable.Pick for example 400hZ on one and 800Hz on another, then finetune around these number to hear how the tone changes ;)My theory goes like this:If all "working frequencies" would just harmonics of the resonant frequency of the granite, then they can be tuned so the effect on the pipe end is minimised.The overlaying frequencies however should result in the same effect a water cutter has: The pipe becomes ultra hard.The better the match and the more you have to get it right the harder the pipe will be.Adding now a "drilling frequency" or multiple could be used to drive these harmonics slightly out of phase.Like with the sound generator on your phone we end up with a pulsating sound, or vibration.While the pipe still vibrates at the same "hardening" mix the drilling frequency creates a peak like a jackhammer.Try it by using the heaphone output on a small speaker and placing some light and tiny things into the cone.The will violently jump around during these pulsing tones.For a drilling system the output can be mechanically maximised by utilising a pitchfork design.A head holds the vibration speakers and the tynes are tuned good enough to the frequency of the speakers.Always two would have to operate in sync though as otherwise the pitchfork movement that transfers the sound down the center bar won't work.This head could then be desgined to act as a holder for a quick change of work out pipes that are no longer long enough for tuning.I guesstimate that a well tuned design would result in a copper pipe being able to drill at least 10 to 15cm into solid granite before it wears off too much.And we are talking here about just a few mm to get the thing out of tune!But would dare to desing such a thing just to confirm a theory that no one ever really dared to test? ;)And if friction welding works as good as ultrasonic welding, then what would happen if we try this with the right frequencies and vibrations instead of wasting tons of energy?

Topic by Downunder35m 


Ceiling fan generator mod to the max

I stubled upon several mods to convert a standard ceiling fan into a more or less usefull generator.So if you are looking to go this route then I might have some nice improvements that can be implemented.People like these mods for some weird reason, despite the fact that it requires quite a bit of extra work to make them weather proof.However, when it comes to the fundamentals then to me it looks like some folks out there are missing out.On the available power that is...Always the first step for a mod like this is to replace the induction ring with a lot of magnets.Second step usually is to remove a lot of the coils, especially the inner ring.Now, these two stator designs are common for fans with two speeds.Those with three or even reverse might have a different configuration!Lets start on the magnet part:The recommended way of placing the magnets is by creating an air gap as small as possible - makes sense.But then it is always the same amount of magnets as there is coils - and the spacing is also the same as for the coils.In the general generaotr design world this configuration is prefered as it allows for the best performance.If you dare to go a bit further and cosider how the magnets react to the stator configuration then you might want to consider a different option.You see, these two sets of coils for two different speeds mean just one thing:A different amount of poles is created, with the outer ring having more poles than the inner ring of coils.The core is split around the coils, not just to allow the windings to be made but also to provide independent paths for the magnetic field - resulting in the two pole configurations.Amounts differ by diameter, power level, manufacturer and so on.What is always the same is that the inner ring has less coils and that the outer segments of the poles created have even spacings.In the normal mods you see posted these gaps in the core for the outer ring are closed by inserting lamitaed pieces from some old transformer.And you end up with ONE usable coil configuration and ONE power output.The slightly advanced mod uses the inner coil to add some load depending on the speed to prevent spinning out of control in high winds.If you try a normal DC motor with permanent magnets than you will notice the strong binding forces, it is like the rotor sticks in certain places.The better ones use and uneven configuration to reduce this binding effect ;)In my mod the magnets are selected in size to almost be the same length as two stator poles next to each other.This allows for the best induction while still allowing "to experiment".Bringing the magnets and the coils into play...As said an exact match of the number of magnets to either coil ring is not ideal.The prefered option is to go somewhere in between.For example:Outer ring has 18 coils then the inner ring will have 9 coils - exactly half.360° divided by 15 make a nice 24 degress per magnet.But with 12 magnets you get an even 30°, which is far easier to deal with.16 magnets at 22.5° is another option.So, what does that exactly do for us?The bad thing is we get slightly less performance if you only see the standard mod with one coil ring.The good thing we get far lower binding forces and through that the thing will even spin in very light winds.Adding both coil rings with a suitable rectifier however results in a pulsing output of two sine waves.With just the rectifier we get a ripple that is easier to deal with through a capacitor.The extra power available is in the range of about 40% and make more than up for the "reduced" amount of magnets.Going the extra mile once more ;)Having created a much fancier ceiling fan mod now you might wonder if there is not a way to get even more out of it.And there is.For example by utilising a gear system or belt to get a far higher rotational speed on the generator than what the blades would provide, prefably then with quite big blades too and an automatic break for high wind conditions.With the reduced binding forces the generator will be happy to spin at quite high speeds in low winds.Downside is that you will need to build a far more sturdy bearing housing.In return though you get more stability and durability.You can do the math yourself based on the number of poles per ring and magnets to get the output frequency based on the RPM's.Perfect would now be to use a switch mode power supply configuration to directly transform the provided output into a stable DC per ring.And yes, it is possible to use mechanical systems to provide a fixed output speed from the blades to the generator - but way to complex and lossy!Lets do some lame math with no regards to realities:If the original fan would spin at 100 RPM at full speed than we could say our generator should provide the mains voltage at about 100 RPM.Keep in mind we utilise both coil rings and not just the high speed one!Geared and with the blades spinning at 100 RPM we might get as much as 1000V from this little generator....And even with the lower amount of magnets we migh see frequencies above the 500Hz range.The good thing now is that normal iron core transformers can still operate at these frequencies.A bit lossy in the upper range but acceptable for the purpose.Put simple: A 10 or 20:1 transformer per coil ring would provide us with a far more suitable output voltage and much higher amps.If you made it to here than you certainly wonder about other magnet configurations.Checking the stator configuration you will by now realise why I selected the magnet lenght accordingly.The magnets "activate" one coil after the other.The spacing between them means there is always some overlap where the magnets only cover one half of the stator for a coil.This is ok because we don't really have to worry about the resulting messy output.Ideally though you would want to have a magnet activate both coils, the inner and the outer at the same time.What we did though was to make sure that at no time more than ONE magnet fully covers more than ONE coil!It is the best option to cover both coil sets while minimising binding effects and increasing the avialable output.To go the last step you would need to invest a lot of time re-winding all coils :(You don't want to do this unless you have the means and no friends and family that might miss you for a few days....I found a far simpler way to change the coil configuration, although it is not as good a re-winding.So let's go full scale shall we?Ceiling fan reconfiguration!If you take the usual 18 to 9 configuration than one thing jumps to mind reight away: 3-phase power!Cutting the wire that goes from coil to coil might not always be possible and if it is then you need to know how to handle it.Magnet wire can be hard to solder.Burning the coating off results in corroded copper that is even harder to solder.If you are lucky though than a reall hot soldering irong will be able to melt the coating.The flux from the solder will start to cover the wire from the cut and the solder will follow.If not then using some fine sandpaper and time is the other option to remove the coating...Ok, you seperated all coil and have two wire ends per coil?I hope you did not cut off the ones going out to the actual connections to the outside world ;)Properly solder each wire end and take your time to check it is really proper and not just a few spots.Mark or number the coils on the rings!For the inner ring we have 9 but need only 3, so we start at one connection to the outside world and check if this connection is on the outside or inside of the coil.For this example I assume you picked the one that goes to the outside of the coil.Connect the inside wire to the outside wire of coil number 3, assuming we start with 1 here ;)From the inside wire of 3 you go to outside of 6 and the inside is you first new output connection.Do the same with the remaining 6 coils and where needed add the required output wire.It really helps to have wires with three different colors here, one color per new coil set.Note which color corresponds to to the three coils used!!!The outer ring with 18 coils is sightly different here.You see, we want a "flowing" magnetic field that makes best use of the new coil configuration!We can not simply bridge them in any way we feel like without considering how this might affect the electrical side of things.As we now take the approach of a three phase system it makes sense to use a more suitable magnet configuration as well.So before go to the outer ring of coils lets have a look of the best option for the magnets first:The stator packs are evenly spaced in our example and will alow us to use 18 magnets.This provides the best performance with the downside of a higher binding effect, but we need this configuration to get the best possible output.As said at the start I selected magnets that are just shy of being the same length as the corresponding stator segments.In a "free" setup these magnets would now be quite hard to place in a makeshift ring.Even harder in the original casing.A 3D printer certainly helps but some common sense too ;)Wood is easy to work with and if you select the right stuff than making a suitable ring to hold your magnets and attach to the drive system metal parts is not too hard.Bar or brick type magnets can be quite easy be utilised on a wood setup :)The key is that you add Flux Capacitors - sorry couldn't help the reference to Marty....What I mean is to add some magnetic material between the north pole of one magnet and the south pole of the other.Lets say your magnets are 15mm long and have a spacing of 5mm.Then a little plate of 12mm would be next to perfect.This plate needs to connect the magnets on the backside, the side facing away from the coils.Use a dremel tool or what you have to first create slots for the metal strips or bars, then the same for the magnets.Glue in the metal first and once set add the magnet, making sure the always go north to south with their alignment.Ok, and what does this do for us?I hope you are not one of these persons who starts building while reading...What we created now is a shortcut for the magnetic forces.The field between the magnets is severly compromised in terms of being usable for the coils.We do get a much soother run though...I only did that to have some fun and check if you paid attention - sorry :(What we really want is an effect similar to what you see on a loadspeaker magnet that is still in its metal shielding.A ring magnet with one pole on the inside and one on the outside is used here.The shielding provides a path for the magnetic field that is not going through the speaker coil - hence the little air gap for the coil.If we do the same then our efficiency will be going up quite a bit.Take two identical steel parts, like some butter knifes, and prefarbly a force gauge.If you try to pull your magnet at a 90° angle from the blade you will get a certain reading for the required force to lift it off.Most people now think that this would be the max a magnet can hold.So take the other knife and place the magnet between them.If you pull the knife off with the gauge now the reading will be higher than what you get from just the magnet ;)Taking that to our model and keeping the field lines in mind we now know that we could even use slightly longer plates if our magnets happen to be a bit short :)Just place them right behind each magnet !Back to the outer ring of coils....With 18 magnets we get an even system for both coil rings.However we want to make sure that our output waves are syncronised and not at random order.We need to combine two coils to be back on a 9 coil configuration as on the inner ring.The other option is to provide two sets of outputs for outer ring, resulting in 3 3-phase outputs.Both have their pros and cons....But if you check the 18 magnet configuration ina ction over the coils it becomes clear that combining two coils the usual way is possible but also that our inner ring does not get a proper north south action from the magnets!Only the outer coil ring works properly!For the inner ring we never get only a north south combo, instead a lot of mixes.Did I mention to read first? ;)Of course we can only use 9 magnets in our configuration, but at least I did not traick you on their size....You see, we need to account for the fact that the coils are not just evenly spaced but also that all configurations in terms of coils to stator pack are doubles or halfs.Makes a lot more sense if you know how these asyncronous motors work :)With 9 magnets we actually get both inner and outer ring coils activated properly.Plus we now have the benefit that there are always twoouter coils in sync with each other.Means apart from the same way you wired the inner ring you make this addition to the outer ring:"One" outer coil is created by going from one coilinner connection to the outer connection of the second after this, skipping one coil.The resulting output is again just 3 phases but with double the output voltage.The key is to again take notes of how you connect and wire the coils - and the colors used for the output wires!Let me give you an example for the correct order:I we take the number 1 coil on the inner ring then coils number 1 and 18 would be next to it on the outer ring.You want to combine 1 and 3, 2 and 4, 5 and 7,....And you want the resulting three coil packs and wires colores to correspond to the inner coils in the same order!That is true for the always same way of combining coils from the inner to outer connection - or the other way around but never mixed!Ok, we have done the magnets and the coil configuration now properly, no jokes this time!With two simple 3-phase rectifiers we get two DC outputs that can be combined or used seperately.As we end up with roughly double the output voltage on one output but all coils are the same it makes sense to treat them independly.For those who wonder why:If you add a load than one coil system would take a higher loading of it.Meaning while one coil set is stll fine the other will already start to overheat - if the load is too great.So we use two rectifiers with some filtering.In the basic form just a really big electrolytic capacitor of suitable voltage or a full LC filer system with multiple stages.Either way we can now utilise some better DC-DC converters to get going.Considering the equal max watss the coil rings can handle it make sense to include some current limiting.A good converter will provide this option.Both converters can now set to the desiered output or with some added protection diodes and adjusted properly to the same voltage combined for just one DC output.Compared to the standard mod of removing coils and bridgning stator packs the resulting output power in overall Watt will now be about 40-60% higher - depending on the model and quality of parts.Special words of wisdom:Consider the orignal max speed of the fan when used as intendet - see this as a theoretical max output that equals your mains voltage.Just ignore losses and such things - better to be safe than sorry.It becomes clear that it quite possible that your output will be far higher than mains voltage and that you need use transformers for the two 3-phase systems so you can use standard DC-DC converters, which have a max input voltage of around 50V only.This means your converter must be able to handle the higher amps!The fan might have only used 100W or less than 500mA but at high speeds and a ratios of lets say 10 to 1 for the gearing high wind speeds might get it up to over 5 amps on the transformer outputs.Please do the math first for your gear system in relation to the max wind speeds you want to use with your blades!If in doubt use a converter that has some reserves to offer, especially if you aim to charge batteries as quickly as possible.The most vital part however is to ensure that all previously cut wires are isulated properly!!!Magnet wire of the standard kind is good for about 1000V max, so don't drive it higher!Heat shrink with a hot glue liner is prefered but hard to apply in these thight spaces.Since nothing moves consider using long enough wires for your connections so you have enough space to solder without affecting the heat shrink tubes.Liquid insulation or rubber is the last option and should only be used to finalside the heat shrink security measures.Best option once all is confirmed to be working fine would be to make a custom mold and to fully enclose the staotr pack and wires with casting resin or an insulating casting mix.Make sure to keep the output wirese free at the their ends ;)What if I don't want to build a complicated three phase rectifier and just use a single phase system as it was?Firstly chances are your coils are already connected in a three phase configuration, just all in series.But working out a suitable magnet configuration to suit this is much harder if you want to use both sets of coils.In a series configuration like the original you also have to accept the losses from these connected coils.The higher the overall resistance the lower the possible output ;)Main problem however is to get the magnet working properly.The standard 9 or here even 18 magnet configurations still works, especially with the added shielding from behind.But the coils also produce a magnetic field, which grows with the load.Means that an top of all you also have the coils working against the magnets and create even higher losses.Explains why the simple folks prefer not use the inner coil set if they go with a single phase system.So either accept the losses and just use the outer coils or do it fully and get far mor output.And by the way: a 3-phase rectifier modlue is only a few cents more than a standard bridge rectifier ;)Ok, and why do I bother to write all this?People like to tinker but most don't really invent.Following some simple instructions is easy, trying to work it yourself much harder.The reward however is that you actually start to know what you are doing :)And what works for a ceiling fan can be used for these ring style washing machine motors too ;)Anyways...We need to get back our roots.Start thinking for ourself again, work things out instead of just looking them up.If people would be aware that a simple ceiling fan could provide about 3 times the output power of its rated installation value instead of only just about half......Super strong magnets allow real output even without re.winding all coils.And what works here works for other things too.We only learned to use magnets in a striaght way because we can not bend them.But we can bed the magnetic field lines to our advantage!The simple shielding used in this mod is nothing more than a shortcut to enhance the field strenght where it is is needed.By a simple coil modification we basically bet two electrical generators for the price and size of one.Apart from stating how easy it would be to place multiple stators and magnet rings into one generator the magnets itself also allow for even more output.If you ever played with hook magnets or speaker magnets then you know how much stronger they are compared to just the magnet once they seperate after hours of fun for you.Imagine you would replace the single bar magnet with two block magnets that are joined by a magnetic shunt like out simple shielding before.If the magnet blocks now would have a slightly smaller footprint than your individual poles:Imagine you create a hlaf ring shaped magnetic connection between the two blocks that also goes aruond the outer perimeter up to the outside of the magnets surface?I mean the surface facing the stator poles?Damn your imagination is good, yout it right away!Of course we would then have a magnet that allpies its full strength focussed onto each pole of a coil!And of course the resulting field would be far stronger than just using the magnet blocks itself and still significantly higher than just adding a shielding or connection between them.The affect of the next coil coming is also drastically reduced, which in return also increases the efficiency.In terms of numbers:If a fixed neodymium magnet would provide us 100$ field strength as the base point with no shielding (just the magnet blocks alone);A fully shielded and connected system, like in a hook magnet combined with a U-style magnet, would reach above 400% here.....Adding witchcraft to the mix ;)Although I know better I just assume some of you have now a working double-three-phase-ceiling-fan-generator.And that would mean you also have some fans to spare from your long experiments.Modern ignition coils seem to have nothing in common with our ceiling fan or resulting generator.So why do I try to use them anyway?For the ignition only one polarity is prefered so the spark works and travels as intendet.Means the "wasted" energy from the othe half of the pulse seems to be lost.The electronics do a lot here but magnets too ;)The core of the coil has magents at either end, turning it into one long magnet that still has the right properties to act as high voltage transformer system with the coils.The coil appear to be pre-loaded and with the ignition pulse it has to overcome the magnetic field pre-set by the magnets.And when the electrical impulse is off the same magnets also accelerated and increase the resulting fall back impulse - which provides the spark.Unless you have a suitable laser cutter or simlar cutting tech available somehow it will be hard to modify the metal plates of the stator.But if you could...Imagine you could add magnet inside the plates that are inside a coil.The same pre-loading would happen.Does not really help in terms of adding outpur as our rectifier would suffer badly here.It does give ideas though...Shielding works fine for the magnets, same for field shaping.Electromagnets use the same techniques...So why not use some leftlever transformer cores to add more "shortcuts" for the coils?Strips of transformer core sheets added either side of the coils increase their field strenght and result in better output!Three packs either side of the stator pack are usually no problem.Now take your leftovers and do a standard mod.Compare the max output on the same windmill with what you get from my mod(s).The only real magic I used here is that I actually bothered to combine multiple and already used methods to drastically increase the available output of an otherwise utterly useless generator mod ;)Warnings:If you take the above mods serious and to the their extreme than it is imperative to make sure you have safety measures in place!Assume the lowest rating for the magnet wire and if in doubt stick with a max output voltage of 800V.These mods are potentially lethal if you don't follow what is common sense to everyone dealing with high voltages for a living!Most people will start without any gearing or belts and use the wind directly.Even here it is easy to get far higher RPM than what the thing ever did under your ceiling.Without some fixes you will need transformers to reduce the output voltage accordingly.Only other option is to limit the max speed to what your DC-DC converter can handle.Making mistakes with mangets can cost you a lot of time and work, make sure to mark their poles somehow to prevent putting them in wrong.If in doubt then double check!Always keep in mind what the magnet wires and your connections can handle!You don't want any arcs or overheating.Some added electronics to monitor wind speed, rpm's, load and temperature of the coils can turn out vital once you upscale.Before letting your new generator do its thing make sure you tested all to the max!Use a drill or so to speed it up and check the limit regulation for the converters.Measure the actual volts and amps going through your coil sets at assumed max speed and max load.Monitor the coil temp while doing so to ensure nothing is out of limit!You are kidding me here right?A scrap ceiling fan shall provide more output as a wind generator than what was used to spin it as a fan?And of course I need not one but two 3-phse transformers...Pretty clear it is all a fake because nobody could replicate any of it unless limited to what the converters can handle...Didn't I say to think outside normal restraints already?A single phase transformer uses two coils in the most basic configuration.For example one side for 240V and te other for 12V.But some of them are more efficient than other ;)A 3-phase transformer uses 6 coils, two for each phase.And there are plenty of standrad transformer cores out there that would allow us to use this configuration.The worst being the MOT, or microwave oven transformer.Very lossy for a reason but good as an example as these have three core stems ;)Now that you see that you will that a lot more transformers actually allow you to replace the two coils with 6 ;)Ok, but why not use a rectifier first and not use a transformer or two at all?The resulting output voltage will without a gear REDUCTION be much higher than what a cheap DC-DC converter can handle.And at such speeds the effiency would be very bad too.You would need huge capacitors of good quality to deal with the now more impulse like output.And considering the primary side of the transformer does not require anything thicker than the wire on the coils of the fan...Not hard at all to find some suitable tansformers to salvage - or to use some nice ring transformers ;)No kidding around, just facts and possible options you might want to explore.Does that now mean I get free energy?Sure, if you mean you get the free nergy from the energy of the wind at no cost.No if you think a ceiling fan could ever power your house.Internal resistance, size and wire/connection properties set our limits.Not to mention that they are designed to be dirt cheap.If you are in a windy region and assume a realistic 300W minimum output from a 100W fan then adding more stage multiplies this.These fancy upright windmills are not just powerful but also would allow to use one modded fan either end.If big enough and with enough wind force throughout the year you could just add a second or third stage to ech end.With 3 on both ends the resulting output would then be suddenly 1.8kW per windmill....And all from scrap parts with only the costs for the magnets...No wind? Then use water....None of it? Get some greyhounds and build a big hamster wheel :)You get the general idea I hope...

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