I have 2 broken digital cameras and I need to know if they have any significant use before I take'em apart.
Question by sf49ers | last reply
Okay I have this problem with a screw being stuck. It's a small screw size, like maybe #10, but can't tell. It's stuck in 3/4 inch mdf, and it goes through the mdf. I've tried everything to get it out. Pliers don't work, and I absolutely CAN NOT drill out a larger hole. I tried super gluing a nut to it (yes, I know, stupid idea) didn't work. Only other idea I have is possibly welding a nut onto it, but I have no access to any kind of welder. I can get a butane torch with interchangeable 'soldering' tips, but I think I could possibly do a cheap tack weld that way if it gets hot enough. Other than that, does anyone have any ideas on what I can do? I'd like to preserve the threads as I will be using the same hole.
Question by xander.zoolander | last reply
I love demolishing things for parts. Often a broken AC motor is left over. Usually it contains a decent amount of copper. But the copper is mostly deeply embedded in iron (a core or a ring around it made out of stacked steel plate). Since it has been put inside the iron there must be a method to take it out. Copper prices are very high. If it can be separated quickly without melting the whole thing down, I would consider doing this myself. How?
Question by BobS | last reply
I have a 32" Visio led with a cracked screen, way too expensive a repair to justify going through with, but I want to utilize the parts for other projects if I can. the tv was brand new so all the boards, LEDs, speakers, wires, etc... are in perfect condition and I was wondering if there is anything cool I could do with them. I was thinking about rigging the boards up to a 7" LCD screen I have and installing it in my car to add tv/DVD/audio in/hdmi/USB to my dashboard but I'm not sure how to go about connecting the 30pin LCD monitor cable to the componant screen input. anyone have any ideas on how to do this? or anything else I could do with all my newly acquired parts?
Question by glytchdesign | last reply
I have a van that has a broken transmission. I want to take it to the scrap yard to get it out of here. In order to do that I need it to be in neutral so I can move it. When I put the key in and shift it into neutral or any other gear, it doesn't do anything, It shifts smoothly.... not like a normal car. So my question is: How can I shift it into neutral without using the shift lever? Under the hood? It's a chrysler 1999 van
Question by jacobdlyon | last reply
I recently got hit by a car that decided not to stop at a stop sign, and as a result, I've got this bent up, broken old bicycle taking up space. It seems like a treasure trove of salvage, but I can't think where to get started and where to go from there.
Topic by jschap1 | last reply
Question by BikeHacker | last reply
We have a Delta sidekick 10inch motorized miter box. With a broken safety guard. This hadn't been used very much when it broke and we were unable to buy a spare. We have started using it again, carefully , but I would feel a lot happier if it had a guard. Does anyone know if another make of guard will fit this saw. Many thanks
Question by Kiwi girl | last reply
Question by daviddodofain99 | last reply
An old(ish) violin found in the attic. All but one of the tuning pegs are missing, but other than that, it's in fairly good condition. How do I replace the pegs?
Question by NOODLE! | last reply
I bought a Craftsman 10-inch bandsaw (http://www.amazon.com/Craftsman-10-in-Band-Saw/dp/B001TQPOG4/ref=pd_sxp_f_pt) 4 months ago. At first, it fuctioned normally and cut at a fast rate. But now, it can barely cut through anything; it took me a minute to cut through 3 inches of 1/2 particle board, and the blade nearly came to a stop while I was doing it. Even 1/8 acrylic can slow down the wheels to a crawl. The bandsaw is tuned correctly, it has enough power, nothing is clogged with dust (as far as I can tell), the blade feels sharp (I could be wrong) and there is no visible external damage. What could be the problem? (I have a 2 year warranty on it, so if it's broken, then I can get a new one. And if you need pictures of anything, just ask.)
Question by Shagglepuff | last reply
Question by bmxminibeest | last reply
Hello, On the second pot of coffee the handle broke, right at the handle pinning hole. ;( I've attached some picts. I don't have either 3D printing or CNC fabbing tools, but have saved this pot for 4 years hoping to resurrect it. I'd love to redesign a better /replacement one, which wouldn't break, and be cool to the touch. If anyone knows where to go or is interested in trying out a new process etc. I'm up for that! I could 3D scan w/ one of my tools, I think, although, I 'believe' this is more for 3D art vs. 3D CAD accuracy. If accessing a maker community locally makes the most since, I'm in the Raliegh-Durham area of NC. Thank you instructables community for any guidance, help or where I would I go to collaborate repairing this. kind regards,
Question by simsimphony | last reply
Hello Everyone,As you might have read, I have a Milled Aluminium 2014 Block which is Anodized with Black color, Today when I was tapping the holes of it, the M2 Tap broke and got stuck inside that hole, there is no portion of it outside the hole, so I can't unscrew it and pull it out.I saw a few videos on youtube on how to use alum water, or electrolysis(with 10% dil H2SO4) to dissolve or chemically remove the Tap bit from the hole, But my question is is it possible that using any of the above options could destroy the anodizing on the job work. and is there any other easy method I can use?Please Note that the tap bit is M2 and There are no tap extraction tools for a bit that small on the internet (or Locally Available in India) but if you find one Please post links for the same. Please Be Positive and make this community a happy place. Thanks.
Topic by _Boltz_ | last reply
If I can repair the neck that would be great, if not, then what? I just cant see throwing this beauty in the garbage. So what can I make w/ it? A table, a shelf? Help!!!!
Question by andijo | last reply
If you have a front loader and found this then most likely you are currently unable to get your washing out of the machine.Welcome to the club!Here is what happened to me, skip this bit if you like:The washing finnished, I try to open the door but nothing.Ok, maybe some electrical bugger somewhere, so knock it a few times but still no go.Mind you that I am in AU now but a long time ago I took my European machine with me - not knowing there won't be any service down here.A quick search on my model and the problem informed me that either the electrical safety lock is faulty or the handle part is broken.The solution to open the door as suggested by the official support:Take the damn thing apart until you get the front off.Unscrew the lock from the inde and then investigate the actual problem.Well, lets just say I was not in the mood to dismantle the entire thing just to open the door, so here is how I did it:Part two: Options to open the door if the handle won't do the trick:Most front loaders are designed to make thing complicated when it comes to the door mechanism.It is considered a safety thing, so tempering from the outside shall be prevented.A faulty electrical lock is rare but I will try this a bit further down.Almost all front loaders use a hook like pin in the door.And once the power was off for a few minutes the safty lock will disengage - if not look further down this text ;)But since the cover is screwed on from the inside of the door you can't get easy access to this locking pin.In some cases you can be lucky and if you look from the side you can see it - if so then try something flat enough (but sturdy) to press it towards the center of the door.For me the problem was the cover really covered it all :(I used some strong, braided fishing line instead to pull on the hook pin.Take a lenght to go all around the door, push the line in where the handle is and guide it around the door.Take both ends together and pull - the door pops open.Be aware though that fishing line can cut into your fingers, so make a loop and a wooden handle or so instead of your fingers ;)Part three: The door is open - what now??Well, if you managed to open the door during part two already then your handle part is clearly broken somewhere.At the hinge should be two (or four) screws with heads that are different to the rest - if in doubt aim for those closest to the hinge.Remove them while supporting the door!Once the screw are out you should be able to get the door off with a bit of wiggling and different opening angles.If not put the screws back in and remove all others first to take the front cover off while you attempt to get the door off.The handle part isusually fixed with screws that hold the cover, so it should come out once all is seperated.With some luck you find a part number on it somewhere on the back, if not check your prefered supplier for a spare.Part four: To repair or to not repair?You might notice that with just the actual locking pin and its frame that screws into the door all would work fine.If really just the handle part is broken while the stronger part for the screws and actual pin is fine:Consider leaving the handle off until you get a spare.The door can be mounted without the actual handle but you need to take the framework apart.Once done you should only have a basic frame to screw into the door with the hook in it but the actual handle is gone.And without the handle you have easy access to the pin - you can even push it with your finger to open the door...But as said, in my case the frame for the door cover blocked this bit too much.For the first wash I used a popstickle stick as it was thin enough...If no spares are available anymore and repairing the broken plasic is not an option either:Part five: For the desperate - modified locking pin.I have seen people placing a bolt into the front of the machine and then literally screwing the door close.The safety was then just bridged of course...This however is not recommended and a bad idea anyway.Much better is to be creative and to use some spare metal or strong plastic like Delrin.Fibreglass re-inforced plastic like from an old sewer box is great too but a pain in terms of protective gear while cutting, drilling and sanding.Either way you should now see the resulting parts of your accident scene.And this of course only works if at least the frame for the pin itself is still intact.The mechnism in the original is a double lever - you pull the handle away from the door and the pin is "rotated" over its pin to move away from the lock.Take the actual locking pin out, trace its shape and on the drawing add a suitable "extension that you can press down (on the outside of the door).In the most basic form a simple straight lever going away from the machine at a 30° angle will do.Cut a cardboard sample to check if you really have enough free movement.If all is good create a copy in the right thickness and put it all back togehter without the broken handle.To open the machine you then just press the lever towards the machine and the door pops open.
Topic by Downunder35m
My friend took apart his broken Kenwood amplifier. He used his multimeter to find the broken part, then removed the RM4Z rectifier diode. I've been searching for about an hour, but I cannot find any websites that sell the RM4Z diode. The closest I have found was one from Hitachi, but I read that the RM4Z was from a Chinese company. Suggestions?
Topic by freethetech | last reply
It needs to look like it's got parts broken and pillars knokced over and stuff.
Question by DehLeprechaun | last reply
So in a previous question, https://www.instructables.com/answers/My-oscilloscope-died-How/ I have stated that my oscilloscope died, and listed the symptoms. Since then, I have popped the cover off, had a look inside, and was I found inside what certainly appears like a "mod," it goes off to the 3 by 3 connector I have mentioned also. I forgot to mention a small blueish purplish wire was next to it, similarly just sticking out the scope. I figure it is a MOD because it is: A) precariously mounted to the transformer with only one small nut on the transformer B) Has so many bodge wires crawling around on it, that it looks more like a cobweb (and w/o silastic or hot glue for vibrations/stress) C) Sloppy soldering and flux residue left behind indicating hand soldering D) The PCB has a very different appearance than the rest of the boards inside; No solder mask, greyish white, and no silkscreened values, parts, or numbers. I traced both the wire and the connector and ribbon cable to the same mod board, which clearly got toasted. There was a small orange wire tangling off that board, it it broke off before I even realised it. Luckily the pictures show roughly where it was connected. Tracing the blue wire back to the board, I discovered it is connected directly to one of the cooked resistors, and I think the other cooked one was in series with it. The only connection found to the main board is the orange wire, and there are ceramic capacitors in series on that crappy looking PCB, indicating it is capacitively coupled. I was Hoping that what had happened was the blue wire came into contact something it was not supposed to, and shorted the output of that chip causing it to catastrophically fail, knocking out power to some of the boards. Unfortunately did not appear to the the case, and the supply voltages seem OK. Nothing appears obviously burned out on any of the other boards from what I can tell. However, just today I have discovered that some driver transistors, which are mounted to heat sinks, are getting unconfortably hot to touch. I suspect they may be blown, by the blackening and discoloration around them on the PCB.They themselfs do not appear to have any physical damage. I will desolder them and connect them to a transistor tester I have to see if they register as operational. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ As for some additional questions, can I replace those weird looking obscure transistors with standard ones? I am not sure of their exact specs, the only datasheets I can find for "2SA818" and "2SC1628" are some scanned PDF datasheets that are not in english, and I certainly could not find replacements online for them. I have the gut feeling radioshack is not going to carry them either. :P I hope this is not Beyond Economical Repair (BER), but used analog scopes can be bought used for around $30-$70, and of course I am on the verge of getting something better than that.
Question by -max- | last reply
Someone had a wooden sleigh that is for dolls. There is a broken piece on the bottom of sleigh. We are trying to find it's value and how to fix it Wood pieces. Staining cord
Question by Clete4 | last reply
These collars are found in a variety of applications large and small, this particular one came out of a broken flatbed scanner. I've seen variants with bearings on the inside ring allowing full rotation in industrial settings and small hobby ones used for axles. So, is there a name for these?
Question by mikeasaurus | last reply
I need to source a small ball lock, or the components for one. I have a device which has a broken retaining collar for the ball, and I want to replace.
Question by rodonn | last reply
I have a 1958 Pfaff 332 sewing machine with a broken knob made of bakelite. Replacement knobs are not available. It occurred to me that it might be possible to cast a replacement with a different resin. I have no experience with casting and don't know what kind of resin would be best.. I saw the antique radio knob replacement ible, and liked the idea of using a flexible mold for detail. This knob engages a major cam mechanism and should be fairly strong. The old knob 'handle' was broken off when I got the machine. The images of complete knobs are from the web. The complete knob is about 1 inch by two inches. What product available in the USA do you recommend?
Question by mole1 | last reply
4 weeks after bent valve repaired tested etc had a clicking sound an car died no compresion found in all 4 cylenders belt is not broken an was also replaced when they repaird the head
Question by HDTV1
The studs that bolt the exhaust manifold onto the engine on my dads nissan navara (year 1990) with a td27 engine have broken. The engine is un turbed. What are the stud torque settings for these bolts? Thanks.
Question by David97 | last reply
I had an idea after looking at my friends broken fan. I was thinking of ataching the rock tumbler barrel to the fan motor and puting it on the lowest speed. Do you think this will work and if it does i will post a instructable on it.
Question by Don,t try this at home | last reply
The people we rent our house from decided to "fix" the air conditioning to the house by getting rid of the unit for the upstairs and just making the duct for the one downstairs bigger. Now the ducts are basically clogged with dust because there's no filter that will fit the main intake and the main unit keeps freezing up because it can't handle cooling the entire house. We live in Florida, so it get's very hot, very fast. We're currently looking for a new house, but does anyone here have any creative cooling ideas for until then? I currently have fans upstairs blowing all the hot air out, which is working a little bit.
Question by tieguy | last reply
The studs on my dads nivara have broken, they connect the exhaust manifold to the engine and we need the torque settings to replace them. The truck is 1990 with a td27 engine does anyone have a link to a online manual. Thanks.
Question by David97 | last reply
Hi - does anyone know where I can get a Danfoss Tempress I (not Danfoss Tempress II) cartridge/regulator to attach to the shower/bath tap handle? The attachment part which is plastic and "T" shaped is broken on mine.?
Question by Gene9 | last reply
I have this very large suitcase which is in good condition, except the telescopic handle on it is broken, andy suggestions on how I can fix it? Everything else is fine on it. Too heavy to carry it. Too cumbersome.
Question by knitter08 | last reply
Hello. How strong is JB weld compared to cast aluminium? A broken lever from the quick snap from a "Supercut 2 Q" oscillating tool from "Fein".
Question by tobias.claren.9 | last reply
The lock has a flat spring, not like the round type springs, and this flat spring keeps tension on the latch to keep it out. The spring broke and is there a place where I could get another. Thanks
Question by browne | last reply
Hi, I bought a brand new Samsung TV with a broken screen in an auction. I have removed the panel and all modules (not needed) but can anybody tell me how to power the LEDs with a 12v (?) power source in order to make a daylight panel for a windowless room. Picture shows the LED units.Thank you in anticipation.
Topic by TN1946 | last reply
Hi everyone! Someone gave me a small electric project and one of the part is now broken:( Its part of a heart beat monitor... there was 2 tubes like like plug into the machine. How the machine worked ; When you were touching the 2 tubes with your hands, its automatically started to pulse light (in the 2 tubes) It then synchronise with your heart beat. Now, I cant figue out How a kind of neon like this could DETECT AND GLOW at the same time?!?!?! The two output connector ARE SHORTED TOGETHER! And the big question is: WHAT IS THIS part!! i would like to replace it. It doesnt look like a neon, not even a lamp! so...??? I think its a kind of laser diode inside. You dont see very well on the picture, but inside the white ring on the top of what i think maybe is a laser diode, is empty, theres a hole the rest of the white glass tube is empty. Its the top part of the tube (dont see in the picture) is broken.
Topic by johnybody | last reply
I have a model PT boat 109 ( in 1/72 scale) and the propellers are broken. I figure the best way to do this is to just throw the boat in a diorama scene, so it is at the waterline. Can anyone help, because I have no idea how to do the water, and i was wondering if there was any realistic water things that I can make at home, or buy for pretty cheap.
Question by the poodleo | last reply
I found this scooter on the street and picked it up. I found out that the speed controller was broken and needed to be replaced. I tried to find one online but nobody is selling one. I would like to know how to make one or another speed controller that could be used as a replacement.
Question by hockeymikey | last reply
I recently came across a youtube vid showing removal of a broken bolt with a left handed drill bit. Other than the removal of stubborn bolts and studs why do they make left handed drill bits? Both my rather old mains drills and the pillar drill all turn clockwise for right handed drill bits. Only the cordless drill has a reverse function.
Question by rickharris | last reply
I am repairing a broken wheel on a old lawnmower for which spares are not available. The hub (holding the roller bearing) has broken away from the rim and tyre. I've managed to weld the two parts back together using the hot air gun on my rework station but some small pieces are missing and I'd like to replace these and reinforce the welds by adding material.It is possible to buy rods of different plastics to carry out these repairs but I need a better understanding of the material I'm working with. It is an opaque white plastic with a greasy or soapy feel. It melts relatively easily (I used the heat gun at 180 degrees C) and bonds back to itself well. I suspect it is a polypropylene of some flavour - straight Polyprop, HDPE or LDPE.I don't have scrap material to test without removing some from the wheel. Any thoughts on what it is likely to be and do I have to know exactly which it is or will the different materials bond with each other?
Question by Henmarsh | last reply
From the title, I'm sure you can tell that I'm absolutely ignorant about what this part is or how to replace it. Basically, I have a few gliders with broken bits that are supposed to make the gliders glide. And because I have no idea what this part is, I've taken a few pictures. I'm wanting to fix these parts, but I don't know the name of the part and, consequently, where to find them. Brah!!!!
Question by AngryRedhead | last reply
Can anyone help with this?.....these camerras are manufactered by big companies such as RIDGID, GENERAL( Gen Eye) etc......this is my first post........helppppppppp........the camera head is approximately 8-10 inchs long and is extremely flexible. I'd like to know if i could have a universal head...the make is SOUTH COAST SEWER EQUIPMENT....ps photos coming soon :)
Question by johnnyboy0304 | last reply
My sun visor has broken on my 2012 Chevrolet Sonic. Pretty much same as this guy, https://youtu.be/Joa_CnGxmp8. Because I'm cheap I was going to try to glue and treat it gentle instead of paying $40 for a new one. What glue would give me the best bond and any idea how (if needed) to clamp it while it sets? The plastic has ABS written on it, so I presume that refers to Acrylonitrile butadiene styrene.
Question by bp2000
I have a 1.5kva gas engine generator but the engine part broke down. I opened it up to see if it can be fixed but the cam and the piston were shredded to pieces. I tried to run the generator part to see if it still works by hooking it up to an angle grinder via pulleys and a belt. It did work but the grinder only lasted half an hour. What better ways can i run this generator off of? What motor can i use to take the place of that broken engine? The engine speed is 3600 rpm.
Topic by Servantwind | last reply
Hi Is there somekind of guide how to choose catecory for the instructable? Like this: https://www.instructables.com/id/Broken-Angle-Grinder-to-High-Torque-Drill-Press-Sa/ Its mostly made from metal.. so its "Metalworking", but its also a "tool" and can be used for "woodworking" too. So, if i make woodworking tool from metal. Wich catecory i should choose? I know its not a big issue, but should i catecore instructable from the making process or from the final use? I have been wondering this for a while and decided to ask if there is some guidelines for that. Thanks Tuomas Soikkeli
Question by The other Finnish guy