How do you go about attaching wheels to an axle for a hand cart.
Question by bswannie | last reply
The CBS Sunday Morning show recently covered a story about awesome custom golf carts in the Villages retirement community down in Florida. The Villages has cart-path infrastructure allowing golf cart access everywhere. A culture of custom golf carts has since developed, with some really awesome builds. Can I get one with spinners? CBS Sunday Morning Video via YouTube. Villages Golf Cart Man, mentioned in the video, custom golf cart company.
Topic by CrLz | last reply
Hi, I'm new to this group but not to working on golf carts. I have been working on carts now for 15 years and I just started another venture in drag racing them. This is a lot of fun and hard work though but I really like the people in which I race around. If you are in SC area this May 2011 come join us for a weekend of racing and showing off your cart in Pageland SC. If anyone has questions about there cart feel free to ask!
Topic by andy4639 | last reply
Hi I have a Lionville med cart that I got at a yard sale, The model # is 624-D. I was wondering if anybody could tell me how to get it unlocked. It also has a push button combination on it I found the battery for it, I think, any suggestions would be appreciated. Would like to use it for a rolling tool box. Has lots of drawers.
Question by aqg57 | last reply
This modified golf cart is apparently riding around some studio lot in Hollywood. Not much info about it except that one commenter claims it was made by Marc's Creature Company for a director who is not Christopher Nolan. Well, no matter what, it's a sweet custom job. Christopher Nolan Golf Cart via Geekologie
Topic by fungus amungus | last reply
I've been trying to find some DIY instructions on how to attach a folding shopping cart to a bicyle, but get no where. I once saw someone on a bike who did just that, but I didn't get a close look at it. Nor did I ask them how they did it. Both of us were on errands, so.... Anyone out there who can figure out how to do this, without welding & metal bar cutting, as I don't have such tools to do that. However, if a hacksaw will work for any cutting needed... Thanks
Topic by MelPhleg | last reply
So my friends and I have built a mattress cart. It's basically this: http://s.sears.com/is/image/Sears/07180002000 with the sides down and support bars with a mattress and a box spring on top... So my question is: We need a way of making it go i.e. a motor or pedals or something. It can be gas, man, or electrically powered. Does anyone have any ideas?
Topic by alecaim
Hi. Been lugging around a 38 lb. marine battery (9" x 9" x 5.5") that cannot be stored in the kayak. I hate walking long distances with it. Need something like a compact luggage cart, but very minimalist. Would like to store the carrier with the battery while on the water, in the kayak storage well. That way it is readily accessible. Thinking just a 1/4" plywood "L" shape that hug the battery bottom and back. I cannot think of how to make the "L" joint (where 2 pieces come together) strong. Also, need suggestion for a (telescopic?) removable handle. Do I use an axle? Thanks much for any suggestions. This will be a big help!
Question by NickMDal | last reply
I haven't seen anything this on here so I thought I'd step up. Engineers (or anyone who fancies themselves A DIYer) I found a few days back I little some very interesting Wind Powered Rides...six-or-seven-ways-wind-powers-vehicles OK so we know it CAN be done, but can it be done by a DIYer? OK here's my concept, Design and shape are optional but basic components are such: Take a pair of multi-speed Bicycles, their gearing will be the basic propulsion for this vehicle. Take one of the "bikes" and hook up a prop where the pedals "where" and set the wheel output to be higher then the prop speed, this should take care of the foreward movement once going. Now for the initial starting power (Bike 2), this can either be by petal, or by electric (solar/battery- up to you) But the basis for this whole thing is simple energy transfer, if the moving air over the prop causes the drive wheels to go, and by having them geared higher, the vehicle SHOULD move faster the faster you go ..Right? Can I get some math to back this up? it sounds like it would work.
Topic by Green_Primus | last reply
Would anybody happen to have any ideas on how to build a go-cart wwith a lawn mower engine(not riding).One that is somewhat inexspensive, say $100-$150 to make and some web sites to get all the parts i need for it.Im looking for one that I can ride on the road but also ride on a trail.I think there are some kind of shocks that lock and unlock.Anyways if you know any thing feel free to email me at email@example.com Thanks For Your Help, Deavan
Topic by deavan | last reply
Me and a friend of min have been wanting to build a go cart. Right now were in the planing stage and the first Question is to use an electric or a gas motor. If any one has any impute on which is cheaper, quicker, simpler, safer. A top speed of 40mph or so is good enough. My dad can weld (and is teaching us) he is an electrical engineer i have a fully working washing machine motor (most likely to small to use) also have a lawn mower enginewhen i say top i mean like best of best "top electric cart" (not my video) "top gas cart" (not my video) linkshttp://www.webx.dk/gocart/t1.htm]http://www.webx.dk/gocart/t1.htmhttp://buggies.builtforfun.co.uk/index.php
Topic by i make shooting things | last reply
I have an idea for making a go cart with a in wheel motor, same idea as the volvo recharge My idea is to have electromagnetic "flaps" that can be turned on and off and i was wondering how i could turn them on and off precisely so i could control the acceleration and other variables I was thinking about using a hall sensor but i couldn't control very much about that so any ideas would be great thnx The flaps that i am talking about are a coil of wires, laminated, and i will have alot of them. then i would place them on a smaller wheel side by side. they need to be actuated so that if there was a magnet that is before it the coils will turn on and when it passes it will turn off, i would need to control the actuation of the coils so i could accelerate. And would a variable resistor be able to control the speed of the cart? Report Post Reply With Quote
Topic by squirt8500 | last reply
I'm have started building a small electric cart, I plan on using 2 350watt motors to power it. I estimate the final weight of the cart (with me on it) to be around 250 pounds, would these motors be able to effectively propel the cart?
Question by NoNameCola | last reply
I am creating a time-lapse dolly, and at the moment I am working on the drive system. One thought was to use a threaded rod+nut to propel the cart, and I want to look in to this method because it seems fairly versatile. So I would have a taught, fixed threaded rod running through the middle of my 8"x6'x1" track. The cart sits on top of that. I have the motor and the cart pictured below. How can I get this motor to spin a group of nuts (attached to the cart) so that it propels the cart along the threaded rod?
Question by sblaptopman | last reply
I've looked at a few but there wasn't really good instructions, and I would like for my golf cart to run on wood/trash. I added an image of what my golf cart kinda looks like.
Question by TheWilks1 | last reply
Or better yet what would be the formula when the angle of incline, cart weight and hanging weight vary?
Question by vwchest | last reply
Im looking to build a electric cart with two 24v 350w motors but im wondering if i can use just one speed controller for it, the speed controller is 24v 350w thanks james
Topic by jbutcher05 | last reply
Hello forum and thanks for your attention. Its common practice for the average engineer to build a go kart. Lets put that gas engine to the side and put something that will benefit our environment. I'm talking solar energy, you know, the energy source that does not pollute. Ok so I wasn't bluffing when I said I had your attention right? ok. First off is the stating the problem. Problem: limited distance with inefficient vehicles. We heavily rely on environment polluting machines that limit our range of travel and actually costing us more and more money to refuel. Hybrid cars were invented to bandaid the problem .....keyword bandaid. They are very expensive the way technology is now and they still use gasoline. .... They are simply an expensive and half step solution to the problem leading most consumers to buy gasoline only cars regardless. my guess hypothesis: If you create a car or vehicle for vague definition that is very very affordable, safe, easy to maintain and gives 3 to 4 times more mileage than your average economy car by utilizing pure electric and solar energy (electric) , then you will win consumers and help the environment. my project will try to solve the problem on a 16 year old boy's financial level and try to prove my hypothesis 90% true. Join me forum in my quest please. As of now i'm thinking 3 wheel vehicle 7ft by 3 ft. 2 idle steering wheels in the front with a hub motor wheel in the rear. Based upon affordability I'm thinking around 1000w to 1500 watts. with a 36 or 48v system. solar panels I plan on making myself by buying individual cells with good efficiency. As or right now I am working on a budget of $2000 and is in desperate need of what parts to buy. Hope to hear from the forum. Thanks.
Topic by Marquez Santos | last reply
Have seen wheels at the local big box stores.. how can I use those? What parts do I need.. axle, spacer, wheel.. and what holds the wheel on? Son is wanting help on a project and I don't understand. Are there kits somewhere that have 'all' the pieces? Is there a vid with detail steps? Thank you.
Question by znetmac | last reply
I do not have a tractor but would like it to be able to carry mulch and things. Electric powered. i am thinking two drive wheels and two casters. If i can drive wheels independent of each other than i should be able to steer the cart. My lot is pretty flat. no more than a couple feet rise in 100 feet. No steep slopes. I thing the total weight of the cart empty will be 1200 lbs with a load of around 800 +-. No need to be a speed machine as I will walk behind Any help would be great thanks Bill
Question by heattreat | last reply
I have a dolly cart and motor, and I want to motor to move the dolly cart as slowly as possible (It's already four RPM, but just take that into account in the method you recommend). I need one of the inner/vertical wheels to be spun by the motor. Both the cart and the motor are pictured below. I am using this for time-lapses, so it should be as consistent as possible. What is the best way to connect the two parts so the motor spins one of the wheels?
Question by sblaptopman | last reply
I am starting an electric go-cart(ish) project thing, and was wondering where I might find the best site for moderately cheap and decent electric motors? (Looking for a motor in the 250-500 watt range) I will be making my own drive train,gear reduction etc, all I need is the bare motor. Does anyone have any suggestions?
Question by NoNameCola | last reply
I'm going to build a go-kart kit and was wondering if anyone had any suggestions on what to buy.I found this go cart. I would like to build it myself but for that price (400 dollars) I rather buy that than spend 800+ dollars on something not as good as that.Bottom lineI found a nice go cart for 400 U.S. dollars. I would like to build a kit but not spend more than 400 dollars and that at least performs as well as the one in the above link. The kit has to total less than 450 dollars and have everything I need.Thanks Jrb
Topic by thejrb | last reply
I've heard of people mounting small (5 hp or so) Briggs engines in boats to power them. I have a couple of warn out 2-stroke outboards, but they are smelly, smoky, and unreliable. Does anyone know the best way to mount a Briggs (or Tecumseh, Robin, etc) as an inboard? I know there'd have to be shafts and seals, but I'm kind of looking for ideas before I start cutting on the old flatbottom. I have a couple of vertical shaft motors, and one good horizontal.
Topic by skunkbait | last reply
I have a snowmobile engine in a golf cart, and want to charge the golf cart battery. the snowmobile engine has a stator already for powering the headlight. But the headlight ran on 12v ac. so i need to install a rectifier. Im guessing im going to be working with 20A or so, and it will be charging a battery about the size of your average lawnmower battery. What rectifier should i get that can handle the amperage it would take too charge the battery? The engine already has a regulator, so i will just run the rectifier from the headlight wiring harness because it is getting the regulated 12v.
Question by robotman36 | last reply
For electric go karts, which one is better (for the money)? Lead acid is by far much much cheaper, but it is much much heavier. With a heavier battery you need a stronger frame, which weighs even more. With all of this weight you need an even stronger motor to push it all. With lithium you can build a lighter, cheaper frame, and power it with a weaker and cheaper motor and still obtain the same speeds. Lead Acid batteries take up about 1/3 the weight of a gokart with rider (1/3 being the driver, and the other third being chasis and motor and such). Reducing the weight by about a third (honestly, lithium, batteries weigh like nothing) could have huge performance improvements. So, does spending more money on batteries, and saving money on chasis and motor equal out to spending less on batteries and more on chasis and motor?
Topic by guyfrom7up | last reply
For my ipod = earphones(1), connection for pc(2), for electrical plug charging(3) and for car radio connection(4) plus my earphone for my cellphone. I have tried to make something to wind the wires around but they still get tangled. I would so like to keep them neat. Please help. Thanks. Julie
Question by juliefv | last reply
Designing what is said to be impossible can be tricky, so I will try to give you some tips to reach your goal a bit quicker.A lot of people these days try to start with a wheel.Makes sense in one way as the final goal obviously is something that would rotate.However, considering angles in a rotating system is far easier with a usable baseline!We developed the liear motor well after any rotating electric motor.But only because someone already invented it for us.Making it flat was then more or less about finding a need for it first, like the modern highspeed trains on a maglev principle.If you want to make something move then it makes no big difference if you do it in flat or round.Flat however leaves you more options and much easier adjustments.And you will need a lot of the later...IMHO the best size and option for linear is the N0 model railway system.Tracks are only 3CM wide and second hand carriages to salvage the wheels is cheap.Either way, how would you start?We have multiple choices, like single row of magnets or double, maybe even tripple.Same for the actual magnet orientation.Flat, angled, attracting or repulsing...They all work if you understand how they actually work.Not the principle, the magnets ;)You see, a magnet always has two poles and without trickery both poles will be of even strenght, size, angle to each other and so on.Playing on a small and flat track with little resistance allows to use tiny magnets, like 5mm disc ones.If you follow the common concept of two magnet rows either side at a slight angle then you are half way there.People spent a lot of time trying not only to let the cart being attracted by the first magnets but also to let them pass out at the other end.In case you wonder why:Being able to be "sucked" in means you will have some force pulling on your cart from the next stage.Being able to fully pass through and preferably gain speed, means the cart would go from one set of magnets to the next - motion is accomplished.Let me give you my personal favourites for 5mm disc magnets:1. The rows are at an angle of 4-5° like a slim V-shape.2. Same as above by with the orientation changed by 90°The first basically means you have the magnets facing up while in the second you would have them mounted vertically.Both have good and bad sides and I think it is easiest to start with the first option.Here you would have a row of magnets at a slight angle either side of the track.Lets say it is all pointing away from you, then the north row would be left, south row on the right of the track.If you start narrow or wide depends if you want attraction or repulsion forces to work with.Again, it makes no big difference really, just a different way of operation, most seem to prefer repulsion though thinking the forces are greater - this is not true though ;)A very often copied way of mounting the working magnet (s) on the cart is by placing a magnet with south facing down on the left and one with north facing down on the right of the cart.Here you have the big problem of manipulating fields.The forces are quite strong and it seems the obvious choice but should be left for the advanced classes.Let me try to explain:No matter the site of your work magnet it has a very narrow acting field.Means you have a lot of attraction forces going only downwards and not providing any energy to move your system ;)If you orientate a magnet (stack) so north faces to the right and south to the left on either side of the cart you have more options.If the stack or single magnet has the correct length to match the angle of the magnet rows then a funny thing happens.Assume the outer most magnet is at about the same distance from center as the first magnet in the row.Means the inner most and opposing one is further away and the attraction forces gain the upper hand.While moving along though it moves away from the magnet row and whie still gaining force the last magnet in the row stops the cart dead center.This is the common scenario you see on the web when people try and fail.Now if you change the length of your working magnet and position in relation to the magnets in the row you can use the changes to your advantage.You can add slim disc magnets either side of your stack and observe the change in behaviour and where the cart starts to be repelled or gets stuck.In a bad case it starts fast but then stops with a big wobble back and forth.The perfect balance and size means the cart is attracted once it comes close to the magnet rows.There should only be a tiny sopt of very little repulsion right before the cart takes off.Like a hair trigger on a good gun if you know what I mean.It should then see some accelleration till about magnet 5-7 in a row of 14.From there it should level out and roll trough and keep rolling.I assume your first attempts now get you to the point where you cart start really nice, slows down a bit and seems just to miss a tiny extra push to make it out.It it shoots to the last magnet in the rows and then settles back to one or two before the end you are close!We have now two basic ways of manipulating the magnetic fields in our favour, or to "cheat" phsyics.Closing the gap.You will have realised by now that you need at least two stages for your system to be tested properly.Preferably 3 to get a 120° angle in a rotary conversion, but 5 would make sure there is hickups.This also means distance is now something to play with.Remember the pull before get at the same level with the first magnet in the rows?This is the first force we utilise by bringing the second stage at a distance CLOSE to take over the pull.Close because we don't want it to pull the cart out just like that.It would create a big "bump" and in a rotary system massive and unwanted vibrations.Instead we weaken the last magnet in either row.We still want to keep its pull but not so much the holding force that makes our cart go stuck here.Placing a magnet orientated in the same direction as your rows at the end of the row will change how and where the field of the last magnet in the row goes ;)Just to be precise: If the magnet in the row is north up and south down then the added magnet should have the poles 90° to that and in the same direction as the row.Depending how high, how close and with wich pole you place it the fields will change.You want to lower the locking force by at least 50% here - that will be suffient to overcome the holding force and gives the next stage a good chance to take over.It can also help to provide a sacrificial pole below the last magnet in the row.Again if north would be facing up then the lower magnet would also face north up but with a small distance to the upper manget.Ok, what happens here exactly?If I would want to be precise here you would need to read an awful lot, so make it simple...The lower magnet provides a way for the upper magnets south pole to get somewhere else instead of back to its original north pole.It also means there is another north pole "pushing" the north of the upper magnet more flat at the bottom half.This weakens the field strenght.Distance is key.The added magnet at the end does a similar thing.It provides attraction or repulsion forces that affect the field shape of the last magnet in the row.Imagine you have north facing towards the last magnet:You would push the last bit of the field up while also providing a very sharp end instead of a big round shape.The south pole of the last magnet also gets attracted by this added magnet, even more with one magnet below it.With those two added magnets you should be able to fully overcome the binding effect stopping your cart.It won't start and keep going when you let go of it half way down the track though, you need to start with the first magnet or give it a push to overcome the first binding effect.After that momentum takes over.If it really is that simple then where are all the successful videos about it?They are out there, you just need to look quite long for them.Most people still literally think only linear.A magnet has north and south and we can't change it - but we can...With field manipulations as above and shielding we get so much more than what physics currently dictates.Keep in mind that adding shielding under your rows of magnets will also affect how all works together ;)Some people forget this when using ferromagnetic things way too close to their testing area.Distance is also vital to keep in mind when experimenting.The closer two magnets are greater their forces to each other.You can utilise this for example by lowering magnets that seem to be far too strong in your configuration and cause a binding effect ;)And as said, shielding is nice thing for triack too - imagine what would happen with sielding on the sides of your magnet rows... ;)Make a negative into a positive!Extremly strong binding forces at a certain point in your track design can mean you might be able to utilise it instead of trying to waste it.Added magnets can divert the field to quite some extend.Shielding however can also direct them somewhere else - like in the core of a transformer where it all goes in a great circle.Even strips of shielding connecting magnets from one row to the one on the other side of the track can be utilised.Like that you turn two small magnets into one long one with twisted poles at the end.Provides more field strenght too and makes it good for areas with little to no attracting force to the cart.Then there is bigger design...Some people add a center magnet.With one on the cart and one in the center of the track you can create a cancellation field.The rows bind while the center magnet wants to push.If place where there is still enough forward momentum or even acceleration but close enough to the binding magnets it is possible to greatly lower the binding effect.But keep in mind you need to consider the added repulsion or compensated the field so it is most active towards the moving direction and less strong to where the cart is coming from.Advanced manipulations.You can machine magnets, sandpaper, file, grinder, CNC....Imagine you cut a square dice magnet from one corner to the other.Depending on how you have the field orientation you can end up several variations.But if north faced up in your dice then it will still face up in the cut pieces!Cut a pyramid and you end with a big flat south pole and a pointy north pole - and with extreme field strenth in this pointy bit.Similar story with half moon shapes.Imagine you machine a flat block magnet so you have a half moon with its pointy bits facing down and big round bit up.If north was up in the block and you shape the moon correctly then you end with two strong south pole points and a north pole that is strongest right between those points.Why is this so interesting you might wonder?Imagine you already know a magnets pole does not care if gos back to its own opposite or that of a different magnet.Then you also know you can machine and shape magnets to your will.Now imagine that for a change:Precisely machined pyramids that have the top chopped off.All tops in this example facing being the north poles and big bottom south.If you then machine a precise iron core block you make a nice cube.With magnets we need really good glue and a good press to make it happen.But if the center core is of proper size then we end with a block magnet that has a south pole on all sides.Of course to be 100% perfect we would need a zero tolerance gap but good glue and high forces can come quite close.Works as a sphere too but would even have clue where to start to machine the magnets LOL
Topic by Downunder35m
These last couple of weeks I've been buying paint for various projects. When I buy many cans, I bring a cart, so that's ok. But when I buy 1 or 2, I tend to carry it. I am strong enough to carry 10 lbs each arm, but the handles on these cans are really terrible. It's just a metal wire. Anyone got any ideas to make a reusable grip to carry these cans? It's just so I can comfortably carry the cans 5-6 blocks home, or to the subway.
Question by alester333 | last reply
I'm a college student in charge of building a float for our homecoming parade. The theme for the float is mario kart, and the design has a track with moving carts going around a track. What is the best way to make a track with powered cars moving around the track? A generator with household voltage will be used to power the track/cars. I know I will need to transform from 120V AC to something else, probably 24V DC from what I have read so far. I don't know much about electricity and the other forces at play in designing such a track, so any detailed information or reference material would be appreciated. I have attached two sketches of the float design, one of which is to scale. Any suggestions would be helpful. Diagrams would be very helpful as well.
Question by BarclayWeddle | last reply
This is super-cool. NASA's JPL has set up live streaming video from inside the clean room where they're building the Curiosity rover, formerly known as the Mars Science Laboratory. Work is from 8am-11pm PDT Monday through Friday. I found this on Saturday morning and I've been waiting all weekend for those slacker engineers to get to work so this would be worth posting. Some comparison: The old Sojourner rover from 1997 was the size of a largeish R/C car. The Mars Exploration Rovers from 2004 that are still running (!) are the size of golf carts. This thing's the size of a Mini Cooper, and has a proportionally larger load of sciencey stuff packed on. Instructables doesn't allow you to embed Ustream into Forum topics, so you'll have to go to Ustream to watch: http://www.ustream.tv/nasajpl Via Bad Astronomy Blog, image from MSL website
Topic by CameronSS | last reply
I have recently finished an instructable on a miter saw cart. During the making of it I had to use a circular saw because I do not own a table saw. My cuts where not to straightest and this resulted in some issues. While looking at table saws to see if in the future this problem could be avoided I noticed that for the most part tables saws only come with about a 30" fence distance. I was thinking maybe I could fabricate an extended bed with a simple wooden fence. I was wondering if anyone had made an extended bed before and whats the simplest way to make a wooden fence? Thanks for any help!! P.S. Below is the table saw I want to purchase! Sub-question is this an ok quality Table saw?
Question by gilleseg | last reply
Hello, I have been looking more and more into solar and wind power generation as well as ways to store the power. I am still in the planning stages and have not yet tested anything. What I usually see in almost every green power storage guide is to use deep cycle batteries mostly of the types designed for solar, golf carts, etc. That would work fine but they are always rather expensive atleast any I have found online (if you know a cheaper source I would love to hear about it). So my question is this could I just buy a bulk quantity of AA NiMH (the new ones without memory) or AA Lithium ion batteries and set them up in series to make cells of 8x AA per cell for 12v total then connect all cells in parallel for my battery bank? I am not sure if this would actually be more expensive as it is just an idea I had and have been unable to find someone that tried it (perhaps I am searching for the wrong thing). It seems to me this could be more effective as I could replace one battery in the cell when it goes out and be able to constantly repair the cells in that manner. Has anyone tried this and does it work? Would it require a special charge controller unlike the usual ones sold for solar? If anyone knows of any guides that show this please share them as I would love to do more research on this before I make a decision. I think I saw once on some show that the electric car they showed was setup in this way. Anyway thank you for your assistance it is greatly appreciated!
Question by TiamatStudios | last reply