How to coat the inside of a bottle with resin? Answered

I recently bought some resin that I was going to test a few prop pieces out with, but, being the space cadet I am, did not pay attention to the volume the resin produces, and I'm now short resin. I can, of course, buy more resin, but I had the idea of kind of cheating and just coating the inside of a coke bottle (the glass ones) with the colored resin and filling it with water to match.  Also, there is more to this. I know I can color water and fill the bottle with that to make a colored bottle. I also know I could color the resin and fill the bottle with that. However, I have an additive that I want to use that is rather pricey, so I would only like to coat the inside of the bottle as to give the illusion it is filled with liquid instead of actually filling it up with liquid. thanks in advance! 

Question by DoctorWoo   |  last reply


A coating for Duct Tape?

Hello Instructables! I have a duct tape question for you! I am in need of a coating for the tape, and would like to know what you guys suggest I plan on making a duct tape satchel and I don't want the edges of each piece of the tape to fray at all. I made a phone case out of tape and noticed that it frays a lot when I put it in my pocket. I was wondering if there is any sort of glue that I can coat my phone case (and future-satchel) with that would be keep the tape from fraying and peeling  Currently, I am using Nashua duct tape.

Question by stale56   |  last reply


Clear coating a guitar?

Hey again, I just painted my new electric. annnd i wondered what you do after clear coating...its kinda rough looking...and i wondered if it is possible to like wet sand or something and in what order and everything you do it to get it so smooth.   thank you!!

Question by ski4jesus   |  last reply


How to back paint clear plexiglass so I can reverse laser engrave?

I'm trying to back paint a piece of clear plexiglass so that I can reverse laser engrave. I'm then going to backlight the piece with an LED panel but I want the paint to be opaque so that the light only comes through the engraved pieces if held up to the back painted side. It will then have a nice look because the clear acrylic will give the lasered piece floating characteristics. I'm able to create this effect using black krylon fusion spray paint, but it just seems to take 3-4 coats in order to block the light out through the paint. I've tried black vinyl, block out sign vinyl and a variety of painted applications but nothing seems to work better than paint. The vinyl applications are also troublesome because the margin for error is too high with vinyl applications as I need the piece to be very consistent on the black reverse side.  I've also found products out there specially made for reverse engraving, but they are extremely expensive, and upwards of 150$ for 24" - 48". I've talked to a couple people that recommended Krylon Fusion normal paint, I'm just worried that if I were to use a roller,  or brush, I'd see the brush strokes from the clear side and it would ruin the piece versus using spray paint, which is slightly difficult to get a consistent piece.  Does anyone have any recommendations for what kind of coating or solution I would be able to use?

Question by Bdilla   |  last reply


Best Clear coat type?

Hello craftsmen! I like making props and thing from games and media i play, such as Corvo's sword from Dishonored. However, i have a problem with protecting them. After painting them with either acrylic spray or brush paint, I need a clear coat to protect it. I would prefer to use a aerosol paint, due to the ease and lack of smudging it gives. I generally use acrylic paint, either applied by brush or spray cans onto wood, pvc and metal. Does anyone know a good brand or type they use? I would prefer something available in the international markets and in places like dubai, singapore, india, etc. Thanks for reading, and please help!

Question by nerd12   |  last reply


Good way for electroplating washers? Answered

Hello everybody...........Seem's i am in need of help from the brilliant mind's of this site again. My dad has been electroplating nut's & bolt's for the past 35 years & i decided to join for the time being(i have summer vacations going on) Recently some guy came to us for getting washer's electroplated,Issue being that the washer's won't get coated with nickel (with the Electroplating barrel).Some of them stick to each other(leading to one side of the Warsher's without nickel coating). These are so thin compared to the nut's and bolt's we are used to electroplate,That some of the washer's get bent. Need any suggestion,any alternative way to do them without much issues. Below are some pictures attached for referance Thanks in advance Regards ~HD~

Question by Bobblehead Einstein   |  last reply


Shortest poly dry time?

What is the shortest Polyurethane drying time before i can wet sand? 

Question by ski4jesus   |  last reply


Titanium coated quartz...How to make?

I have these crystals...they are partially coated with titanium(which give them their purple color. Is there anyway to make the titanium coat the entire surface(w/ same color,clarity, etc.) of the rock or will it just have to stay the way it is?

Question by xXcAsPaXx   |  last reply


What is used to coat a power line ? Answered

Are they bare? if you touch them you will die ! is that because it is NOT coated with rubber ?  I want to know if something is attached to the wire like a clamp can it feed electric power TO the power line ? If it is NOT grounded but surrounding the wire or clamped onto the wire and hanging from the wire can it feed power TO the Line?  If I  make a solar panel and hang it on the cable will it do ANYTHING ?  or will the power line have so much more power that the small amount from the solar panel wont enter the power line? will it back feed into the solar panel and wreck the solar panel ?   Can it be simple ?

Question by Tormentory   |  last reply


What kind of material can I use to make my wooden canopy bed look more modern?

I have a canopy bed that is made of round wooden poles, varying in diameter from 2 1/2" to 5". I'm really not very fond of the wood grain look and it doesn't match my room at all. I really don't want to paint it because the wood grain will show through and it will look terrible.  (In this case, trust me) My original idea was to cover the poles in white heat shrink tubing (similar to what's used for electrical wiring) This idea was squashed because I couldn't find anyone that sells white shrink wrap tubing big enough to be used over 5" poles, and without selling it in a massive bulk.  My next idea was to slide furniture grade pvc over it, which would give it a strong, glossy finish.  And the wood would basically act as a support for the pvc.  But again, I was unsuccessful.  This time I came to realize that I can't find anyone who makes furniture grade pvc larger than 2" ID. I'm now drawing a blank.  Again, I really don't want to simply paint it, because I don't want the wood grain to show through. I'm sorry, I don't have a picture because the bed is currently disassembled.  It's too hideous for me to assemble in my room right now. 

Question by gossumx   |  last reply


Tips and tricks for UV curing glue, resin and coatings

Only a few years ago your only option to repair certain plastics, glass or even a broken crystal was epoxy based resin or the good old superglue.You might have already tried one of the 5-seconds-repair pens or tried your own UV curing nail polish art at home.For the later you might be lucky as the resins used here are optimised for the purpose and lights you get with them.Sadly even the best nail polish is no substitude for a glue as the material properties need to be different.One of the most common complaints when it comes to using some UV glue, like Kafuter or similar is that it never comes with instructions.Sould be straight forward but it is not free of problems.For example almost all commercail UV curing glues that you can buy require quite stirct procedures and for the light the right wavelenth(s).Resins and coatings can be even more painful here as they might also require you to stick to the correct temperature.Let's start with one thing you might have encountered already...The glue is definately cured and rock hard but the surface tacky and smeary.Quite annoying if you want to fix a piece of jewellery and can't prevent it from collecting dirt and dust...The next thing you might have encountered is that despite having transparent materials it seems to be impossible to cure the clue.Both problems come down to wavelenght and exposure.UV curing glue is prevented from curing in the presence of oxygen - a factor utilised for example in resin based 3D printers.Uncovered glue is exposed to the oxygen in the air and won't cure easy.The glue or resin below this layer however with fully cure with ease in the absence of oxygen.For the second problem consider that not all materials that you can see through will let UVC light pass through ;)Bonding strenght is another complaint I hear a lot...Be aware that certain things just are no good for UV curing glues or resins.Take the molds you get for that purpose: on the material the glue won't bond!Teflon is another prime candidate here.But in a lot of cases it comes down to surface preparation.Don't be afriad to sand the surface!Not only will the surface area increase but the scratch marks will be invisible once filled anyways.Use sandpaper on your fingernails, then go over with clear nail polish -mirror finish ;)With curing often a problem consider to fully cover the glue.A bit of clear sticky tape, food wrapping foil....If that is not an option then eliminate the oxygen.You can use a container filled with inert (for the glue) gas like CO2 or just place a burning candle in it until it goes out....Either way the amount of oxygen should then be low enough to cure the surface of your glue.Not always is any of the above an option.Then you can still try more power and a lover wavelength.Mercury based lamps for example provide a very broad and powerful light that in most cases will cure within seconds.For a proper surface cure you need a wavelength of 265nm or lower.LED's offering this exist but at prices well out of range for the hobby user.A mercury lamp under high pressure is nothing for short term use and the limited lifespan does not always justify the costs of buying them.Like with most things in life certain inventions can have a dual purpose.Quality germicidal lamp systems for examples often state to go as low or even lower than 265nm.And they come at a fraction of the cost you have with a broadband mercury lamp.Even cheaper is the fre weather forecast.If the sun is siad to be strong enough so you need protection than even the worst glue will fully cure in seconds outside in the sun - tackfree!Don't be fooled and protect yourself!!These tiny LED lamps for your glue stick, the curing thingies for your nailpolish and everything else using UV light comes with warnings.For very good reasons!It might be hidden in the fineprint but you can not really see UV light.The blueish-purple glow you see is on the high end of what comes out and by that in the visible range of your eye.Just because a LED only gives a faint glow you see does not mean the UV light wouldn blind you if you could see it!Even worse for fluoroscent lamps or open cruning systems like those for your nailpolish.Reflected UV light is still UV light and you can still NOT see it!Stories of people getting sunburnt from germicidal lamps in a butcher shop or other people going blind from checking money as their living have a true base...In most cases lamps used well past their lifespan or simply the wrong type of lamp but still: the damage came from UVC light...If you just love creating your own artwork or jewellery with UV curing resins and glues than protect yourself.Proper sunglasses with a stated UV protection for example or just black nitrile gloves for your hands...

Topic by Downunder35m 


Is there a clear top coat that will bond to a copper penny floor??

We are in the process  of laying a copper penny floor in our entryway. Is there a clear coat for the uppermost layer that will bond to the pennies, and stand up to foot traffic and cleaning? Thank you for your time and consideration!

Question by laurel1020   |  last reply



What can I use to strip powder coating without sandblasting? Answered

I have some tins that I want to strip but they have powder coating. I've tried heavy duty strippers and a sander and a 9" wire wheel sander none of which work that well. Any suggestions? The 9" wire wheel did remove some of the paint but it also burnt or melted the metal faster then it removed the paint. Those cookie tins are thin.

Question by threadbare   |  last reply


glow in the dark bike

After getting hit by a car while riding at night (even though I had lights) I am considering powder-coating the frame of my bike with a glow in the dark additive. I was wondering if anyone had attempted this before, and if you had thoughts on it. Also, can you powder-coat spokes? I know powder-coating the rims is bad because it interferes with the brake pads functioning, but I'd really like my bike to be as visible as possible. 

Topic by luckbug   |  last reply


How do I clean my Aluminum Oxide bit for my Dremel? It has a coating of metal on the side.?

I was probably using my dremel wrong, but my 932 bit has a coating of metal on it after I used it to enlarge a hole. (I ground using the side of the bit). How do I remove this coating of metal?

Question by alfonzo1955   |  last reply


What is the best way to screen print on metal?

I need to print different colors on my products I make.  I powder coat them but I want to screen print a lable on them.  I've tried using another color or coating with stencils and high heat tape, but it did not turn out well.  Any help would be much appreciated! Thanks!

Question by Tanman23   |  last reply


How would I make a coat with armored plates on/in it. At a very low cost?

I happen to be one of those people who loves making things with my own hands rather than buy it, and who possibly has too much free time... Anyway, I am currently designing an armored coat, but lack the resources to use something like Cut Tex Pro fabric or something else ridiculously expensive. Because of this, I have resorted to using thin fiberglass plates in the coat; although due to my lack of knowledge on embedding armored plates into clothes, and on what sizes and shapes each plate should have varying on each choice, (knowledge is 99% experience, and 1% brain power), I'm not sure what would be more effective, external or internal plates. I would appreciate all opinions - (Trolls excluded) - on which choice would be most efficient, simple, or even just low cost; suggestions for alternative materials that offer a possibility of working better would also be welcome.  Thanks

Question by jgdabble   |  last reply


Should I strip the spray paint coat or just sand and paint over it? Answered

I spray painted over a painted hutch years ago. The hutch is made of MDF. The spray paint has been scuffed off in areas. Should I sand the and paint over it or strip the spray paint? If the answer is to strip the spray paint, do I use a normal paint stripper or something designed for spray paint? Thank you to everyone who answered! I feel confident about repainting my hutch after reading your advice.

Question by Shippygirl   |  last reply


How to make a watertight seal between oil paint coated marine plywood and polypropylene

I need to make a watertight seal between a sheet of marine plywood coated with oil paint, and a 5mm sheet of polypropylene, both at right angles to each other. Both are well supported structurally independently of each other. Will silicone do the trick or are there other alternatives?

Question by demorphica   |  last reply


Identify a Signet Ring? Answered

My grandmother gave me a signet ring a week ago, and I was wondering if anyone could help me identify the coat of arms on the front of the ring. I don't know what metal it is made from, and there is no visible hallmark that I can see...

Question by ObsidianBlush   |  last reply


sheetrock finishing?

Can someone give me an estimate on how long it takes to finish the mudding and sanding for sheetrock?  The contractor did the taping and put on the first coat.  How many hours should I expect to spend doing the second and third coats myself?  This is finishing the garage.  Two walls 26' long, 1 wall 22' long, the ceiling which is of course 22' x 26', and then just the small amount around the doors.  Also, how much time do I need to allow each coat to dry before I can sand it? btw: any tips for speeding up the process or getting a smoother finish will be greatly appreciated.

Question by etcmn   |  last reply


Lacquer/Enamel for Brass? Answered

Hey I'm looking for a clear, tough coating for polished brass, to stop it from tarnishing. Initially I thought clear nail polish would do the trick, but it turns out it's not as tough as I thought... it'll rub off in places within about a month, from what I'm planning to do with it. Could anyone else give me a few suggestions/links as to what I can buy/use along these lines? Thanks

Question by .Unknown.   |  last reply


Hi, where can I learn how to make gold plated metal jewelry with enamel coating?

I´ve been doing jewelry using polymer clay for years, I have examples: http://www.cutesimplestuff.com/2013/06/rose-gold-earrings-polymer-clay.html http://www.cutesimplestuff.com/2015/02/diy-accessories-out-of-polymer-clay.html http://www.cutesimplestuff.com/2015/02/diy-bar-necklace-using-polymer-clay.html http://www.cutesimplestuff.com/2013/06/leaf-necklace.html But now I want to update, and learn how to make gold plated metal jewelry with or without enamel coating, like these gorgeous pieces: http://www.katespade.com/friendship-well-wishes-charm-bangle/WBRUA193,en_US,pd.html http://www.katespade.com/maise-charm/WBRU9977,en_US,pd.html http://www.katespade.com/hashtag-charm/WBRU9964,en_US,pd.html http://www.katespade.com/kiss-and-make-up-wink-necklace/WBRUA012,en_US,pd.html All her jewelry is gorgeous to me, but where can I learn how to make those things? I have my own ideas, but I would like to work with better materials!

Question by CuteSimpleStuff   |  last reply


Is it possible to electroplate carbon fiber? Answered

Hi, I'm into knifemaking. There are some carbon fiber knives on the market, but they all have very poor edge retention. (because the edge is made of carbon fiber as well) I was wondering if it would be possible to add a thick metal coating of a hard metal to a carbon structural center, as to coat the blade in a thin layer of metal. This metal would then be serving as the cutting edge, hopefully with better edge retention.  Is this at all possible? What types of metal could be used? Thanks in advance!

Question by jelte1234   |  last reply


How do I post comments?

I just build a new bar for an American Legion Post. The bar top now is 3/8" red oak flooring with 3 coat of polyurethane.It also has a rail around it 3/4" high. All the veterans here, men and women, want to donate their metals, ribbons and Patches; and embed them in a resin coating. This coat needs to be close to 1/2 " thick. This will be REALLY COOL. Now, I need to know or talk to someone who has worked with resin for advice. Like, can this be done in one pour or 2 or 3 pours? I am prepping everything floatable (ribbons, wood plaques, patches), I am sealing these items with poly to prevent air problems and will be gluing them down. We will only get ONE shot at this; so I would like some advice or help from someone who has worked with this medium. A representative on site would be cool! Thanks. I can be reached by e-mail or cell: 419-699-5546.?

Question by conrailcon   |  last reply


Moldy Spackle?

I am in the process of spackling my house, and every time i open the container, there is a fresh coat of green mold over it.  Does anyone know why this is happening, and how i can stop it?

Question by NOODLE!   |  last reply


Would oil dissolve a rubber radiator hose? Answered

What's worse when slipping on heater hoses, a light coating of dishwashing soap or oil? What would you use? (I'm thinking silicone, coolant wasn't slippery enough for me)?

Question by DELETED_Phill   |  last reply


Lacquer or Varnish to finish a guitar?

Hi, I've just had an artist do some work on one of my acoustic guitars. Its done straight onto the sanded bare wood using sharpie, all I have to do is give it a finish to stop the design getting damaged and to give it a glossy shine. A lot of people recommend Lacquer but what type should I use? Nitrocellulose? Poly? Others say Varnish but I've heard it can become tarnished from sweat and heat. This coat needs to stay on indefinitely as I cant sand it down again to apply a new coat without removing the art. Please help!

Question by Boba Jett   |  last reply


DIY Car Stereo Antenna?

Want to know if anyone has turned their roof rack into am/fm radio antenna or knows how? Not how to mount an antenna on a roof rack!!! I have a Jeep Liberty (2005), w\ (self) custom made aluminum roof rack. And I have 35ft of flexible/braided grounding strap to make internal run from roof-rack through and internally down to jeep frame if/as needed. **Concept Notes**  Outside rectangle frame is 1-1/2" (O.D.). I will rubber-coat all straight tube section then apply appropriate wire on to rubber and re-coat with rubber coating. I was then looking to slide slightly over-sized (I.D.) carbon fiber tubing over that. Ground and antenna wire will run through inside of rack turn down stanchion where bolts to roof. Rubber grommet to further insulate & protect wires. I want super reception AM & FM, little to no visible footprint, 1. What wire or such for antenna is best/appropriate? 2. Proper lay out antenna wire? ie., wrapped around primary insulated tubing or laid out length-wise.

Question by nickynite63   |  last reply


Stop sign clean up? Answered

What is the best solvent for removing spray paint from stop signs?  Would mineral spirits or acetone work? Would a quick coat of car wax help prevent future spray from sticking?

Question by mole1   |  last reply


auto paint help

I am not in to paint jobs but really love to do good work and i know if some one gide me good i do very good job from my heart. need little info i want to paint my car rear quarter pannel there is little rust which need to be fix.and i have sanded the quarter pannel the silver body is show now i like to know after fixing the rust what step do i need to take?put filler or first spray with the epoxy primer to wont get rust then filler?and after spraying final paint do i need to sand the paint before clear coate or after final paint do i spray the clear coate straight away?

Topic by acura2.2cl   |  last reply


Whats the best way to seal a wooden aquarium stand? Answered

Going to build an aquarium stand soon. Going to use wood but was wondering what the best sealer/water resistor would be? I know theres polyurethane clear coats and stain but was wondering if there anything else? Would like for it to be fairly cheap. How do the deck sealers work or are those stains too? thanks

Question by plasticpopcorn4   |  last reply


rustoleum epoxy appliance paint on wood?

Hello all, I'm building a DIY wood aquarium conopy/hood and I'm thinking of using Rust-Oleum appliance spray paint for the interior, was wondering if anyone has every used it on wood? Or any suggestions for aquarium hood interior paint. Thinking of either that or using some white spray paint and then a top coat of spar urethane? Any suggestions would be appreciated, thanks!

Question by thedudeabides80   |  last reply


How can you prevent Galvanic Corrosion? Answered

My parents bought a new green heater they've had repaired by 2 different guys in the past 2 months. The last one was a guy my brother knew; he said that it needed to be sanded, which I thought was a bit strange. It's beginning to act a bit funny again, kicking on, then going off. So I opened it up today, thinking that it was probably Galvanic corrosion from the way he talked. It seems as if a few companies are getting a bit careless in there designs. :-) So I opened it up and there was still corrosion laying on the bottom of the case from the first fix. He didn't even know what I was talking about. I read the Wikipedia article: Galvanic Corrosion. They mostly advise electroplating, which could get a bit labor intensive in this case. From what I understand, the idea is to separate the base metals, the anode and the cathode, from the electrolyte. In this case, it's the water vapor in the air. Wouldn't it just require some type of heat resistant coating to act as a barrier against water? Like some kind of spray on coating?

Question by Vorenus   |  last reply


Can fiberglass cloth take shape before applying resin? Answered

My question is after cutting a fiberglass sheet cloth , can the cloth take shape using ironing spray and some heating before applying resin , because im going to fiberglass a rc boat, but it is very slippery and there is no level between  the fiberglass patches  some details are deformed, so im thinking to put one or two complete sheets that cover every thing then resin it . is it possible?????

Question by vwtm2006   |  last reply


What material is my desk made out of? Answered

In the picture you can see my desk (sorry for bad pics.) I wan't to sort of build some stuff on to it and I want to use the same material  but I don't know what the material is made out of or where to buy it. I think it is wood coated in some sort of plastic but I don't know. I wouldn't call it bumpy but its not smooth ether. If you need a better pic just ask. Anybody know what it is?

Question by DBMods   |  last reply


I need help on the steps to spray paint plastic? Answered

I want to repaint some plastic computer side panels silver, so I found some silver spray paint for plastic.  But, Should I use plastic primer and if i use plastic primer do I still have to use the special plastic spray paint and Should i use a clear coat when I'm all done painting it. Note: The panels do have some deep scratches 

Question by master key   |  last reply


how do you mask circles on a model plane? Answered

I am making a model tiger moth, and on the camo scheme, it showes that the bottom half of the airplane is yellow, and the top half is a green and brown camo. however, one of the circular decals go half in the yellow and half in the camo scheme, but the circular decal has a yellow brder. ( easier to just look at the pic) anyways, since i did a base coat of yellow, and i masked it off to paint the camo. so how can i mask of a perfect circle?

Question by the poodleo   |  last reply


i'm making a spartan suit. what could i use instead of expensive plastic to fill some of the parts? Answered

I'm making a hayabusa suit with the shutter shoulders and everything and i want to fill them with something but Styrofoam is way too light. everything is already coated with fiberglass resin inside and out. the plastic at michaels is $30 and i was hoping there would be something cheaper or free that i could use to fill the parts instead.also, where could i get some really thick foam? the kind they package the new xbox's in.

Question by jelly.turf   |  last reply


PVC pipes and winding Tesla coils....

There are still people out there playing with high voltage.And one big problem when it comes to Tesla coils is winding the secondary coil.Now, I won't go into the details and options of the actual winding part, instead I would like to share some tricks that might make things easier for your project.Whether you wind fully by hand or make use of some mechanical winder, magnet wire is a very slippery thing on PVC.For that reason and some others we usually wind as tight and close as possible.Any leftover spaces that you find after the winding is finnished will severly compromise the overall tension of the wire in this region if fixed.Next problem is what many call aging.No matter how good you coat your coil with varnish or paint it will start to degrade over time.I found a simple fix for these problems :)Well, not really that simple but I am too lazy today to make a full Instructable for just an addition that everyone can make in a few minutes....Let me start with idea behind it all:I noticed that no matter how thick the pipe or wire is that there is little to no chance at all to get any of the coating material through the wire and all the way down to the PVC.One coil failed after I abused it so I did some cuts and had a close look with a magnifying glass.The coil itself was really good covered but it was like a sleeve that sits on the PVC with nothing on the underside of the wire except for a few single spots.Some people will now say to just a much thinner mix for the coating to allow the stuff to sweep through but that does not always work.One big issue I noticed is that not all paints or varnishes actually stick to PVC.Especially those non smelling eco friendly ones most places now sell.This means when the coil expands due to the vibrations and heat the wire can simply rattle off the varnish or the coating itself can crack under the stress.So I thought there must be a way to fix this right at the winding stage....PVC is a good insulator too!So why not use PVC instead of messing with other things?My first attempt here works quite well with thin wire and goes like this:Go outside with your winding rig and have a bottle of PVC primer and a little brush or sponge ready as well as some gloves.If you have use a friend, if you have none make a small rig to hold the sponge right in front of your winding area.The key is to keep the sponge wet with the primer so it will wet the pipe properly.Best is to have the speed and distance set so the surface just starts to dry off under the wire.The primer will cause the PVC to soften, so the wire slightly sinks into the surface.An automatic winding rig is best here as it allows for consistency.There is no too much or too little here is nothing drips terribly and your wire sticks without fully sinking in.Once done you can cover the winding with your prefered coating.For thicker wire, lets say 0.3mm or thicker, I now use a similar way but with more preperations:Using some very rough sandpaper on a belt or vibrating sander I create a small pile of PVC dust.If you prefer some fancy color you can use ABS plasic here too and it dissolves in a similar way.The resulting mix should be free of lumps and of even color, if in doubt use more primer.Consistency should be a bit thinner than honey, if yours is too thin you can add more ABS/PVC or let the primer evaporate off while stirring it every now and then.To get a good start I do a few turns dry first with quite a big spacing.When approaching the actual start of the winding area I use some stick tape to make the last alignment and start to apply the mix onto the first bit of the winding area.Some lint free cloth with a bit of primer is used to wipe off any excess towards the still uncovered part of the pipe.Every time the mix on the pipe dries out too fast a brush with some primer is use to wet it.Every time the excess runs out a bit more mix is applied onto the wound area.The key is to only have a small area in front of the winding covered with mix with the most is on the winding and "cleaned" off towards the empty area.This way the entire wire is covered by PVC all around.To finnish off you simply use a brush and paint the mix onto the rotating coil until you have an even finnish.What are the downsides?The primer stinks and is certainly not healthy to breathe in. So good ventilation is a must have and it works better in colder temeratures as it gives you more time.It might require some test runs with braided fishing line or similar to get a feeling for how much mix or primer you need to apply and how much max tesion you can use to preven the wire from sinking in.Any benefits?IMHO using this method makes it possible to get a proper bond between the PVC pipe and the wire.And by using PVC or ABS as the coating there is little to no change material properties.This in return gives far less chances for vibrations or wire expansions that result in failing insulations.The whole thing just is one piece of PVC with the wire embedded in it instead of having a wire on top of the PVC with some coating above. ;)Are there alternatives to the PVC primer?If Acetone is much cheaper than you can use it but the same safety measures apply and the mix might dry a bit quicker.What if I need a break or stop the winding for one reason or another?Simply wipe off all access and stop with just enough tension on the wire so you can star again with no problems.Then start by wetting and applying the mix and continue winding as before.

Topic by Downunder35m   |  last reply


Solar Filter for Telescopes

Having seen some predictions of increased solar activity over the next two years, I decided to make a filter so I can check it out with my trusty telescope. To start out, I constructed the rig shown in photo A, and practiced with it by cutting disks of plain glass. Make a table like that in photo C so you can make a continuous score on the glass, without stopping. Put oil on the wheel of the grass cutter. Be sure that the surface you work on is flat. You can skip this if you want a square filter. After scoring, your glass should look like that in photo B, with a uniform and even cut. Next, put the scored glass on a soft surface like a mouse pad, with the scored surface wetted with water and face down. Press on the back of the score with a dull nail to start a crack. By continual pressing you can watch the crack propagate all the way around. Then, make 8 radial scores from the circle to the edge of the glass and propagate those cracks in the same manner as the disk. When you do it right, you get a result like photo D, where the pieces were separated for illustration. When you get good at this with regular glass, you can cut the mirror into a disk. With the mirror, you score the glass on the side that has the metal coating. Or, you can just cut the mirror in a square instead of a circle. Photo E shows an uncut and a finished cut mirror. The mirror came out of the back of a discarded projection TV. Some of the mirrors are plastic films, some are second surface, some are first surface glass but the metal coating is too thin. There are many variations, but you need to find a first surface glass mirror that reduces the light level by 12 stops (as measured by a LunaPro SBC light meter). Photographically, this is like reducing the light level from F1.4 to F64. This level of light reduction will be hard to find. WARNING: Use of a mirror with a thin reflective coating can result in eye damage if used to view the sun through a telescope. I have access to a smaller commercial filter to use as a guide. This filter produced a bright blue image of the sun, so I added a red filter at the eyepiece. This combination produced a normal yellow image of the sun. There were no significant sunspots visible, so I didn’t bother taking any pictures. The Filter is mounted to a screw-in lens cap.

Topic by ShutterBugger   |  last reply


should i paint my 1997 chevy cavalier by myself?

I have a 1997 chevy cavalier. it is my first car and the clear coat is chipping off causing the paint to fade. i want to re do the paint another color but i dont want to break the bank with a professional job. I want to do a paint job at home. Do you guys think i should do it? Keep in mind the car is only supposed to last a few years at the most so i dont need a 20-30 year paint job just a few years.

Question by curtis foreman   |  last reply


How to achieve professional glossy paint job on my NES? Answered

I want to achieve a really great gloss finish on my NES, but I'm not sure the best way to do so. For the most part the NES is completely smooth, but has very minor textures on it . I'm also not sure if there is a particular type of gloss paint that would work better to achieve the results I'm looking for while working with ABS plastic. I've included photos of the results I'd like to achieve. Photos are of CustomNesGuy's work.

Question by Mirksy   |  last reply


What's the best way to sand and spray paint particle board?

Hi All, Trying to make replacement bases for my floor-standing speakers.  The originals were made out of particle board and appear to have a black spray-paint finish.  They were destroyed in the post when the person sending me the speakers failed to package them properly.  I now have the particle board cut to the right shape and I have begun the process of sanding.  It is my intention to spray a primer on, sand, spray a top coat, and then spray some sort of finish.  so here are my questions: (1) I have sanded the board down with successively finer sandpaper and finished with 1500 grit wet and dry.  This is a very smooth finish until you wipe away the dust at which point it becomes rough-ish again.  Having done a bit of research I am now concerned that I have sanded the board down a bit to much, some forums suggest taking the board down only as far as 250 grit before spraying on the primer.  What should be my finishing grit before spraying on the primer?  My assumption was the finer the better but I'm not too sure now.  If the finish should be fine then how do I remove those stubborn fibers? (2) what type of spray primer works best with particle board?  There seems to be a multitude but most of the information related to car/auto body work.   (3) what grit of paper should I use on the primer? (4) what should I use as a top coat? Much thanks in advance Ross

Question by rcgraham   |  last reply


High-Tech Surfboard Made from Cardboard

Instead of the traditional methods, this surfboard is based on a core that's made up of nearly 400 pieces of cut cardboard that intersects and is then coated with fiberglass and resin. So far it's only a one-off, but more will surely be made.When it came time to replace his old surfboard, Mike Sheldrake decided to build his own. But the former Web programmer didn't have the sculpting skills to carve one out of foam the way professional builders do. So he used 3-D modeling software to design a snap-together deck that's as sturdy as a conventional model and performs just as well, made from the cheapest material he could find: cardboard. link

Topic by fungus amungus   |  last reply


How to put a design on a metal mug?

So, i just put this in the forums (and i can't see it..) So i thought i'd put it here too. I want to put my designs on traveller's mugs and other metal mugs and i was thinking, what are the different way i can do this?  I've seen someone do it with a vinyl and powder coating...but the tools needed to do that are pretty expensive to get here, so that's my last resort. So i was wondering what are the other ways that i can do this?  I hope you guys can help me out with this. Thanks :) P.S I'm new to this.... so can anyone tell me why my forum post isn't showing up? :P

Question by AttractiveToast   |  last reply


How long should I home dry a large oak log for carving? Answered

Hi, I have a large trunk piece  29" in diameter and 5 feet long with the bark still on it.  I want to dry it out for carving on one side and standing it in my yard for a decoration, similar to a totem pole.  How should I dry it and for how long?  Also, I have two pieces about 10" x 29" thick that I want to hand carve into a large bowls. Same question, how long?  And finally, I have coated the ends of the logs with black roofing tar so that the wood will not  having checking. Will this suffice for the smaller cuts as well? Thanks  Tom

Question by eagle4297   |  last reply


Can I use rustoleum epoxy "appliance" spray paint with rustoleum primer?

I'm refinishing my steel medicine cabinet. Its old and a little rusty in spots, so I sanded it smooth and removed as much rust/old paint as I could. I washed it down, let it dry and gave it two coats of Rustoleum "rusted metal" primer in the can. I also purchased a few cans of Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy Spray paint. However, I didn't note that in the instructions, it says "priming is not recommended".  I already have the cabinet primed and ready for paint at this point and would like some imput on putting this epoxy over the primer.   

Question by NikonDork   |  last reply


Looking for tips on painting wood in mass amounts.? Answered

Big fencing project coming up and I need to pretreat all the wood (2000+ boards). I am looking for any tips.methods for covering all sides of every board quickly and efficiently. I'm using a penetrating oil and it seems to take a couple days to dry so I'm trying to figure out how to coat all sides and set them aside to dry without affecting the finish too much where it rests on the sides that are wet. I'll be needing to do around 40 boards per day to make any kind of real progress, and would like to do the whole surface in one go as opposed to doing half at a time, but I don't see how to do it without setting it down a side that's still wet.

Question by siamonsez   |  last reply