Strong Egg Timer mechanism?

I want to a mechanism that turns a drum very slowly for a few hours.  It should work just like an egg timer: You wind it up and then it turns slowly. Is there mechanism available that works like this or do I have to built it from scratch?

Question by uwe999   |  last reply


Is there anyway to fix stripped crank arms?

Well I was riding my fixed gear and my right crank arm got stripped. I don't really want to buy a new one but if it's necessary I will get a new set. Is there anyway I can fix it so I don't have to buy a new crank arm set?

Topic by CreedX   |  last reply



Advice for a hand crank ice cream maker please? Answered

I'm thinking of making a hand crank ice cream maker using an old hand drill I had and mounting that on a plastic bucket that'll be my ice bucket, then using some copper pipe I have lying around and soldering a dasher with some oak scrapers for the side. The main hurdle I'm hitting is where to find a canister for the actual ice cream. I'm wondering if I could safely use galvanized ducting, I'm planning to make sherbet on this as well, so will the acids react with it at all or is there some other hazard I should know about using ducting for this?

Question by sugarworm   |  last reply


Align 2 bikes exactly side by side? Answered

Help! I need to align the pedal systems of two bikes almost exactly side by side. The two crank sets are joined at the inside pedals.  Can anybody think of a relatively easy way of aligning the bottom brackets along the (almost) exact same axis? Note, it's just the cranks I'm concerned with, I'll be chopping off the remaining bike parts later. Thanks! **********UPDATE******** I think I've done it.    

Question by snotty   |  last reply


bicycle generator

Has anyone ever tried to build a generator that would fit inside the bottom bracket of a bicycle using the spindle thats attached to the cranks and pedals? seems it would work better than the ones that rub on the tires.

Topic by oldcrowrich   |  last reply


​HELP! Looking for mechanical engineering advice in building a multiplier/compounding gearbox for a hand crank siren project

HELP! I have a project I'm working on that involves making a hand cranked mini air-raid siren utilizing a 12v generator and a 12v siren. I've done a proof of concept rig where I direct wired the siren to the generator and then used a drill to generate enough RPM on the shaft to get the noise I want. Problem is, I'd like to make this entirely manual and will be adding a crank handle once I get the housing built...which means, I need a way to seriously up my RPM. I've done research into building multiplier gear boxes and compound gear trains and pinions and everything in between, but am going to confess that while I'm obsessed with DIY projects, this one is exceeding my engineering knowledge. I am at a loss for how best to approach this build. What ratio would you suggest? 40:1? 50:1? Does anyone have experience building gear boxes that would be ok emailing me with their advice? The input for my generator is a 20 tooth gear (please don't laugh if I'm totally messing up all the nomenclature...most of my life experience comes from writing and baking and a very short (failed) stint as an EE...this is a totally new world for me.) and I got this information from another sub: it’s a 3600 rpm motor so 60/sec. I think the fastest I would want to crank is 2/sec, so, 30:1 gear box sounds about right. With a nice long crank handle a 50:1 should also work nicely. 10:1 is too slow. Ideally (and this might be where it gets really tricky) I'd like it to all fit into a space that's about 5"X3"X3, not including the siren (I can run that further out, using the leads).I'm attaching a photo of the original proof of concept wire up that I did...and don't worry, I know there are exposed wires, I fully plan on isolating the wires, insulating the whole thing and installing the proper resistors. https://imgur.com/a/MaAR2PQ Here is a link to the generator: https://ebay.us/zgAoDQHere is a link to the siren: https://ebay.us/fEgahDThank you in advance!

Question by Tye Rannosaurus 


What is the best way to remove rust from chrome on an old bicycle. I have a vintage schwinn I'm restoring on the cheap?

This is a 70's or 80's schwinn ten speed I'm converting into a single speed road bike. The paint is still good, the frame is in good shape. But there is rust on the crank, handlebars and other area's. 

Question by upnorth777   |  last reply


Reciprocating motion? Answered

Dear All I would like to imitate for to build a bar go up and down in angle 90 degrees  at website:   - http://www.alivola.it/00-CLOHE-EN-oscillating-lever-1.htm   ( oscillating lever 1 : animation ) So please help me to know  how  calculator  to find point C  ( CRANK 15mm) for the rod go up and down in angle 90 degrees .Many thank you                                                      Best regards                                                            lam

Question by lam   |  last reply


How do I start a Pajero jeep with Low compression ?

I bought a pajero sport 2007 2.5 a few months ago that always had trouble starting. I would heat it 4 times then crank and she would pick up with a puff of smoke then run fine. No problem starting when warm. Having ruled out the plugs (replaced) the relay (12 volts) a local garage man did a compression test and told me that two of the cylinders had low compression We were going to run some oil additive through it to see if that would help But now the B**ch wont start at all. it cranks fine but wont pick up. Its outside the house and I am waiting for the mechanic to get time to do a house call. I was wondering if there is any sure fire way of starting it up with slightly low compression so that I can run some  oil additive through it  or if I get it started what is the best treatment to put through it. also If I have to open up the engine how complicated and expensive would it be I have a mechanic friend coming to stay with me in a few weeks what are the minimum tools needed?

Question by Cargorm   |  last reply


I need HOW TO make a table top die cutting machine like ACCU CUT Grand Mark. I have a woodshop and aluminum experience.

I want to make a die cutting machine so my wife can cut marine vinyl shapes that she uses on costumes. The tray should accomodate dies 12 x16". I am trying to make something like the AccuCut GrandMark die cutting machine. Manual crank table top. Thanks for you help. 

Question by mompi   |  last reply


GY6 50 cc chinese scooter won't start. What could it be? Answered

Hi. I bought a 50 cc scooter that was sitting for some time. It's 2008 model and it had around 400 km when I got it. That's pretty low in my opinion. Well at first it was running fine. I mad around 100 km on the first day. Well the second day it didn't start. Thankfully my friend helped me and he said that my carburetor is dirty. He celaned it and scooter started up. I made around 60km on the same day with no problem. In the morning the next day my scooter wouldn't start. I tried to do the same as him. I cleaned carburetor and fuel filter but scooter still wouldn't start. It doesn't start electrically or kick start. It's like 5th day and my scooter still won't start. What happens when i turn it on:  - sometimes it sounds just like a dc motor spinning but nothing happens (there is no cranking sound)  - usually it makes cranking sounds but doesn't start  - when I let it sit for a while (for 30min, 1h, day ...) it makes a sound like it almost started up but then dies Thank you all for help! I would like to apologize for my lack of english words in engines and bikes field (not a native english speaker and I'm not specialized in those fields).

Question by matijalazic   |  last reply


can we use the magnetic attraction and repulsion in petrol engine? Answered

Instead of using compressing of gas using  combustion and passing gas and using spark plugs ..... shall we use a dipole magnet in the place of spark plug and and a magnetic piston with a pole on top side.if we rotate the magnet at the spark plug place ,when the opposite pole comes down .......the piston due to attractive force goes up and when like pole comes up it will get repulsed and goes down by this crank can be rotated.this is basically based on the principle of magnetic attraction and repulsion........ i am just a college student its just an idea that came into my mind......please say whether it is possible or not...

Question by Ramadossk   |  last reply


Question on charging 12v car battery with step-down transformer, safety issues Answered

Hello, I have an AC->DC step down transformer that outputs at 12v (max 13v, can be adjusted with potentiometer). It is rated at 10A. 1) If I were to connect it to my dead car battery would it even charge? If not, how should I go about charging it from the mains? 2) If it charges, would it charge safely? If not, do I need any resistors or fuses? 3) How should I monitor the charging or know when it's good enough for cranking? Thank you!

Question by pantss   |  last reply


Bicycle iPod dock

So here's my idea: I'm restoring an old bike and there's a spot for a fake gas tank to go. I will build this tank, but one side will open up and hold within it an iPod dock. At least, I'd like it to.  I'm thinking of using the pedals as a dynamo crank which would power the iPod and play music through speakers mounted on the handlebars. I've been doing a lot of research and it seems possible, however, I've not done something like this before and I was wondering if anyone would have any pointers on how to make this work well. P.S. A separate USB port would be cool as well, so that a phone could be charged while riding the bike.  Thanks for your suggestions!

Topic by SamSkellington 


Help with Dynamo types

I have a question for everybody out there. It has been a very long time since I did this type of electrical design work, and for the life of me I can’t remember the principals. I know there are many different ways to generate electricity by using mechanical motion, and converting a motor into a dynamo is very easy. What I am trying to do is to make a brushless dynamo. I have taken my inspiration from a cheap hand cranked torch, and intend to improve on it a lot. In this torch it has a coil which has a flat disk magnet sitting above it. The magnet is spun creating the charge in the coil and is used by the LED's in the torch. What I want to know is how specifically the voltage (potential difference) is created in the coil. My experience of stationary coils is where the magnet is rotated inside the coil. Could someone please explain it to me? Many thanks.

Topic by Batdragon   |  last reply


Not sure where to find a 60 to 120 rpm AC motor

I'd like to add a small motor to a hand cranked coffee grinder (Hario Skerton Coffee Grinder).  It's conical burr style grinder that produces a consistent particle size (much more so than the mini blender, whirlly style grinder).  I'll expand on why that's important when I build the thing.   My problem is that is takes 10 minutes or so to grind enough coffee for two people. I'd like to put a motor on it.  I tried spinning it with a battery powered drill, but the RPMs were too high.  The burr spun faster than coffee beans could feed.  I'd like a motor in the 60 to 120 rpm range.  I still need to determine the torque required.  Additionally, I'd like to plug this right in to a 110 outlet.  Does anyone have a suggestion on an appliance I could scavenge or the type of motor I should look to buy?   Thanks, Mike

Topic by MikeM50   |  last reply


Does Chromesteel disolve during copper-electrlysis with Coppersulfate?

Hi I want to refine some copper and change it to copper-dust-particles by means of copper-electrolsis in a bath of disolved coppersulfate. Since my copper is in smaller bits id like to have some sort of etallic basket to hold the scraps. I think i would like to go with a chromesteel-mesh i connect to the power. The mesh/basket contains my scrap-copper and the anode-sludge can pass thru the basket... The basket (anode) and the copper-cathode are connected to the powersupply. Now my question: I think the chromesteel shouldnt get disolved as long as i dont crank up the voltage too high or let it run without sacrificial copper at the cathode. If i would do that, it would start to split the water used in the solution and produce H and O. Bad. Also would slowly eat away the metals too. Bad^2 But as long as i have copper to be disolved at the cathode, it shouldnt do anything to my chrome-steel-basket, right? Thanks for inputs from someone who knows it better than i do :)

Topic by Orngrimm   |  last reply


Will my metal welder work ok?

I'm totally new to metal welding but am going to give it a try. My oven/range has a power outlet that reads on it: 125/250V, 50Amps. It has four prongs, three vertically oriented flat ones aligned as a triangle with the center one lower than the other two, and a fourth one top center that's round. My breaker box shows a 50Amp breaker for it. The welder says it's a MIG 170, 240V AC, 20Amps,single phase, 60Hz (Harbor Freight). I think the power I have is actually 220V but I'm not sure. If I do only have 220V will the welder only draw as much voltage as is asked by it - that is, if I only crank it up, say 3/4 of the way, will it draw less than its rated 240V? Or is that 240V just a maximum rating and it should run ok with 220V? It would seem odd that they would sell a welder that won't work for the power their customers would have by default without modifications. Also, where can I get a double socket for that outlet with one having an extension so I don't have to pull out my oven every time I need to weld something? Thank you. Bretina

Question by Bretina   |  last reply


Wood Converted SWB Recumbent Bike of Awesome!

This is a project coming soon... But I'm so excited I have to share... I'm beside myself in excitement, in fact.All that's left to finish the project is:1. Recondition a bit more chain and add it on2. Add idlers and get my chain line in order3. Cut excess wood and make a SeatBut after I assembled a crank into some 2x4's - and had to step back and laugh. I've seen it before, in person at the maker faire. But to do it myself and see how easy/simple it is... Ha!So I cobbled that together - made a pseudo tie fighter handle bar from some scrap PVC and two Tees... And rode off into the sunset... Until the chain derailed - and then I realized I couldn't make appreciable low speed turns due to chain routing... Both problems can be fixed with an idler - a solution I've yet to install due to Kinematics homework having a due date of tomorrow.So yeah, this is something I've always wanted to do. And I'm totally happy I did it (and happy I bought those cheap bikes at auction last year :p). AND, the front boom is modular. I intend on making it, and have accommodated for, adjustable. So I can go for more incline and a more aggressive seat position. (mind you, this is a single speed :p).Okay, I'm done venting -- feedback?

Topic by trebuchet03   |  last reply


Vibration feeder anyone?

I am planning on building some sorting rig.Right now I am quite keen to include a vibration feeder system.You know, like the stff used to transport grain, sweets or aling small parts that run up on the inside of a bowl to come out perfectly aligned.I serviced these systems in the past but never put too much concern into the actual workings.The theory is quite simple.One or two vibrators cause the transported media to move.This works like a sawtooth wave.Slowly up and into the right direction, quickly back to where it started.Adjusting the frequency to change the speed or adjusting the amplitudes to match the weights and other properties of the media is easy - in a properly designed system.I tried to find some easy to understand information on the relations between actuator direction and media direction in relation to the trasport systems shape and dimensions but only got extreme complex stuff.In my small scale tests using simple vibration speakers and a frequency generator I had to relise that it is quite hard to find a proper way of mounting the system.To soft and it is just rattling around, too hard and you need to crank the amp to max to get any action.Orientation and angle of these mounts also affect the direction and amplitude of the swing caused by the vibrations.Straight linear I can do, although still not perfect but anything like these feeder bowls only gives me nice vibrations but no movement.Are there any suitable hobby projects on the web or here?And decent info on the basic design criteria for those feeder systems that are not closely guarded company secrets?

Question by Downunder35m   |  last reply


The Torrefaction Process... Anybody know how to cook wood?

For anyone out there who is not yet familiar with Torrefaction, it is a process of "baking" wood in an over between 200 and 320 degree Celsius (392 - 608 F), in the absence of oxygen. Don't quote me on those temperatures btw... I got them from Wikipedia, and they sound way too hot based on other articles I've read. The idea is, wood contains a lot of biomaterials like sugars, resigns, tar, and water. After you cut down a tree, these materials begin to vacate the wood through evaporation, sublimation, and all the other _'ations...It takes 100 years or so, but eventually, they all are gone, and the wood is super stable, and no longer expanding, moving, contracting and changing. This old wood is also extremely rot resistant and can withstand the elements. For this reason, Torrefied wood is used for decking and outdoor projects mostly. However, the guitar industry has also started to adopt using it, because you have basically aged the wood 100 years in the course of a few hours. You have also increased the price of the damn guitar to the, "your firstborn child" level. I build guitars, and I cannot believe that it can be too hard to bake some wood myself. Here are the variables that I see...1. Vessel: How to create an environment that can be brought to a specific temperature (~350-400 d F), but has also had all oxygen removed? Even if you welded together a steel box that could be locked down air-tight, and had a valve that you could pump all the air out, if you could figure out a way to heat that box to 400 d F, the water inside the wood would def. begin to boil and I imagine would be re-introducing O2. I guess you'd have to re-pump the air out every so-often until all the water was gone. 2. Temperature: Torrefication is also the exact same process that is used to turn ordinary hardwood into charcoal. I have no idea what the temperatures are, but lovely baked spruce for a guitar top has turned a slight aged tan color. But if you cranked the temp, it would eventually turn into pure carbon and be jet black like charcoal. I have no idea how to tell what temp achieves what I want. 3.) Time: I always read that Torrefied wood is baked at these temps for "several/many" hours. How would I ever know?4.) Pressure/Flames/Bomb: I know from watching YouTube videos, that when charcoal is made, wood is superheated in an oxygen-free env. until the volatile oils, resins, etc ignite and burn off, thus leaving Charcoal. I do not want to weld together a heavy steel box that becomes a high temp pressure cooker, that blows my kitchen apart when the oils in the wood inside of it ignite. Does anyone know what I am talking about and/or have any suggestions?

Topic by Dolmetscher007 


Fastest you have ever been.

I have a car, but no permit or license. One day, my brother told me to bring him something while he was at work. I was driving down the street going the speed limit or a little over and under. I turned onto the main road Speed limit, 50mph, and just went 50 or so the whole way. and when i got back onto the highway, this guy is following me to my bumper basically, so in the non passing zone just getting on i am going about 25mph, as you are getting on it is 35mph limit, as soon as it reaches 50mph, i jam the gas, it goes into passing gear and in no time i am doing 80mph. and on an S-curve still doing 80. On the stretch i am doing about 60mph, and decided i should just stick to the speed limit. Got a story? A Nice Morning Drive It was a fine morning in March 1982. The warm weather and clear sky gave promise of an early spring. Buzz had arisen early that morning, impatiently eaten breakfast and gone to the garage. Opening the door, he saw the sunshine bounce off the gleaming hood of his 15-year-old MGB roadster. After carefully checking the fluid levels, tire pressures and ignition wires, Buzz slid behind the wheel and cranked the engine, which immediately fired to life. He thought happily of the next few hours he would spend with the car, but his happiness was clouded - it was not as easy as it used to be. A dozen years ago things had begun changing. First there were a few modest safety and emission improvements required on new cars; gradually these became more comprehensive. The governmental requirements reached an adequate level, but they didn't stop; they continued and became more and more stringent. Now there were very few of the older models left, through natural deterioration and . . . other reasons. The MG was warmed up now and Buzz left the garage, hoping that this early in the morning there would be no trouble. He kept an eye on the instruments as he made his way down into the valley. The valley roads were no longer used very much: the small farms were all owned by doctors and the roads were somewhat narrow for the MSVs (Modern Safety Vehicles). The safety crusade had been well done at first. The few harebrained schemes were quickly ruled out and a sense of rationality developed. But in the late Seventies, with no major wars, cancer cured and social welfare straightened out, the politicians needed a new cause and once again they turned toward the automobile. The regulations concerning safety became tougher. Cars became larger, heavier, less efficient. They consumed gasoline so voraciously that the United States had had to become a major ally with the Arabian countries. The new cars were hard to stop or maneuver quickly, but they would save your life (usually) in a 50-mph crash. With 200 million cars on the road, however, few people ever drove that fast anymore. Buzz zipped quickly to the valley floor, dodging the frequent potholes which had developed from neglect of the seldom-used roads. The engine sounded spot-on and the entire car had a tight, good feeling about it. He negotiated several quick S-curves and reached 6000 in third gear before backing off for the next turn. He didn't worry about the police down here. No, not the cops . . . Despite the extent of the safety program, it was essentially a good idea. But unforeseen complications had arisen. People became accustomed to cars which went undamaged in 10-mph collisions. They gave even less thought than before to the possibility of being injured in a crash. As a result, they tended to worry less about clearances and rights-of-way, so that the accident rate went up a steady six percent every year. But the damages and injuries actually decreased, so the government was happy, the insurance industry was happy and most of the car owners were happy. Most of the car owners - the owners of the non-MSV cars - were kept busy dodging the less careful MSV drivers, and the result of this mismatch left very few of the older cars in existence. If they weren't crushed between two 6000-pound sleds on the highway they were quietly priced into the junkyard by the insurance peddlers. And worst of all, they became targets . . . Buzz was well into his act now, speeding through the twisting valley roads with all the skill he could muster, to the extent that he had forgotten his earlier worries. Where the road was unbroken he would power around the turns in well controlled oversteer, and where the sections were potholed he saw them as devious chicanes to be mastered. He left the ground briefly going over one of the old wooden bridges and later ascertained that the MG would still hit 110 on the long stretch between the old Hanlin and Grove farms. He was just beginning to wind down when he saw it, there in his mirror, a late-model MSV with hand-painted designs covering most of its body (one of the few modifications allowed on post-1980 cars). Buzz hoped it was a tourist or a wayward driver who got lost looking for a gas station. But now the MSV driver had spotted the MG, and with a whoosh of a well muffled, well cleansed exhaust he started the chase . . . It hadn't taken long for the less responsible element among drivers to discover that their new MSVs could inflict great damage on an older car and go unscathed themselves. As a result some drivers would go looking for the older cars in secluded areas, bounce them off the road or into a bridge abutment, and then speed off undamaged, relieved of whatever frustrations cause this kind of behavior. Police seldom patrolled these out-of-the-way places, their attentions being required more urgently elsewhere, and so it became a great sport for some drivers. Buzz wasn't too worried yet. This had happened a few times before, and unless the MSV driver was an exceptionally good one, the MG could be called upon to elude the other driver without too much difficulty. Yet something bothered him about this gaudy MSV in his mirror, but what was it? Planning carefully, Buzz let the other driver catch up to within a dozen yards or so, and then suddenly shot off down a road to the right. The MSV driver stood on his brakes, skidding 400 feet down the road, made a lumbering U-turn and set off once again after the roadster. The MG had gained a quarter mile in this manner and Buzz was thankful for the radial tires and front and rear anti-roll bars he had put on the car a few years back. He was flying along the twisting road, downshifting, cornering, accelerating and all the while planning his route ahead. He was confident that if he couldn't outrun the MSV then he could at least hold it off for another hour or more, at which time the MSV would be quite low on gas. But what was it that kept bothering him about the other car? They reached a straight section of the road and Buzz opened it up all the way and held it. The MSV was quite a way back but not so far that Buzz couldn't distinguish the tall antenna standing up from the back bumper. Antenna! Not police, but perhaps a Citizen's Band radio in the MSV? He quaked slightly and hoped it was not. The straight stretch was coming to an end now and Buzz put off braking to the last fraction of a second and then sped through a 75-mph right-hander, gaining ten more yards on the MSV. But less than a quarter mile ahead another huge MSV was slowly pulling across the road and to a stop. It was a CB set. The other driver had a cohort in the chase. Now Buzz was in trouble. He stayed on the gas until within a few hundred feet when he banked hard and feinted passing to the left. The MSV crawled in that direction and Buzz slipped by on the right, bouncing heavily over a stone on the shoulder. The two MSVs set off in hot pursuit, almost colliding in the process. Buzz turned right at the first crossroad and then made a quick left, hoping to be out of sight of his pursuers, and in fact he traveled several minutes before spotting one of them on the main road parallel to his lane. At the same time the other appeared in the mirror from around the last comer. By now they were beginning to climb the hills on the far side of the valley and Buzz pressed on for all he was worth, praying that the straining engine would stand up. He lost track of one MSV when the main road turned away, but could see the other one behind him on occasion. Climbing the old Monument Road, Buzz hoped to have time to get over the top and down the old dirt road to the right, which would be too narrow for his pursuers. Climbing, straining, the water temperature rising, using the entire road, flailing the shift lever back and forth from 3rd to 4th, not touching the brakes but scrubbing off the necessary speed in the corners, reaching the peak of the mountain where the lane to the old fire tower went off to the left . . . but coming up the other side of the hill was the second MSV he had lost track of! No time to get to his dirt road. He made a panicked turn left onto the fire tower road but spun on some loose gravel and struck a tree a glancing blow with his right fender. He came to a stop on the opposite side of the road. the engine stalled. Hurriedly he pushed the starter while the overheated engine slowly came back into life. He engaged 1st gear and sped off up the road, just as the first MSV turned the corner. Dazed though he was, Buzz had the advantage of a very narrow road lined on both sides with trees, and he made the most of it. The road twisted constantly and he stayed in 2nd with the engine between 5000 and 5500. The crash hadn't seemed to hurt anything and he was pulling away from the MSV. But to where? It hit him suddenly that the road dead-ended at the fire tower, no place to go but back . . . Still he pushed on and at the top of the hill drove quickly to the far end of the clearing, turned the MG around and waited. The first MSV came flying into the clearing and aimed itself at the sitting MG. Buzz grabbed reverse gear, backed up slightly to feint, stopped, and then backed up at full speed. The MSV, expecting the MG to change direction, veered the wrong way and slid to a stop up against a tree. Buzz was off again, down the fire tower road, and the undamaged MSV set off in pursuit. Buzz's predicament was unenviable. He was going full tilt down the twisting blacktop with a solid MSV coming up at him. and an equally solid MSV coming down after him. On he went, however, braking hard before each turn and then accelerating back up to 45 in between. Coming down to a particularly tight turn, he saw the MSV coming around it from the other direction and stood on the brakes. The sudden extreme pressure in the brake lines was too much for the rear brake line which had been twisted somewhat in his spin, and it broke, robbing Buzz of his brakes. In sheer desperation he pulled the handbrake as tightly as it would go and rammed the gear lever into 1st, popping the clutch as he did so. The back end locked solid and broke away, spinning him off the side of the road and miraculously into some bushes, which brought the car to a halt. As he was collecting his senses, Buzz saw the two MSVs, unable to stop in time, ram each other head on at over 40 mph. It was a long time before Buzz had the MG rebuilt to its original pristine condition of before the chase. It was an even longer time before he went back into the valley for a drive. Now it was only in the very early hours of the day when most people were still sleeping off the effects of the good life. And when he saw in the papers that the government would soon be requiring cars to be capable of withstanding 75-mph headon collisions, he stopped driving the MG altogether. Written by: Richard Foster

Topic by Yerboogieman   |  last reply


Mono pole / single pole magnets!?

I made a quite intersting discovery today.The use of mixed orientations for a stronger or more directed field on one side and a much weaker on the other side of a magnet is nothing new. But if you check modern wind turbines or even just any old hard drive you find "chokes". I talked about shielding before but combining shielding a choking provides again another level of manipulation.If you ask anyone who claims to know magentic field or sience in general then you right away hear: There is no such thing as magnet with just a single pole!Like a battery one pole can't exist without the other!Keep going and your conversation parten either get angry or declares you a nut case.Also said before: The laws of nature and physics are not set in stone or complete for that matter!We only use what we know, or to be precise what we told to take as facts.A magnet with just one pole is impossible to manufacture, if you only think like making the magnet like any other magnet.Even cutting it in half will only give you two normal magnets again.Why is that so?How are magnets made is what you need to know.No matter the material they start as a blank and during the final processing an intense electromagnetic field is used to "prime" them.Like you would do on a screwdriver the material then keeps the "charge" and becomes magnetic.And this process requires a certain orientation.Imagine a big hydraulic press to make the magnet with some super strong electromagnets right beside the forms.Explains why you won't find a block magnet with the poles on opposing corners - the form is not designed to be rotated ;)Ferrite magnets can often be machined.If you mark the field direction of a block then you could just cut it into the shape you need.Like a half moon, triangle, pyramid...The orientation does not change, so you need to create the cuts so your required orientation matches the orignal block.Creates a lot of waste, is messy and often the magnets shatter.Still not possible to create a mono pole ;)But it allows for a great deal of field manipulations.For example a thick north and a thin south pole would show very different field strengths at the poles.How to create a mono or single pole magnet then??If you think outside modern science restraints it is suprisingly easy!You see, unlike a battery the magnet does not care if the "current" flows back to its own pole or a pole from a different magnet.In a hard drive the choked magnets have a field strength between them that is not just twice as much as th one from a single magnet.The field between the magnets is very stable too!No matter where you measure it is the same.Place two magnets in the same configuration with the choke and all you get between them is a mess.To understand the reality with magnets I need to explain a bit more though:If it does not matter from where to where the field lines go the it becomes obvious that you can guide them.Horse shoe magnets of the old kind where just two steel bars with a block magnet between them!Take a compass and check from what distance your magnet will start to affect the orientation.Now take two iron bars, rods, block or similar of about twice that length.Place the compass between one end and the magnet between the other end.Even with a little gap your compass will still move!You just extended the length of the field lines and directed them somewhere else as it also works with odd shapes.We know know and confirmed how choking works and as shielding is basically the same thing but for a different purpose you might get an idea where I am heading already.A "potted" magnet, like what you find in a speaker or as a hook magnet utilises two destinct features.a) A ring magnet is used.b) The field lines are directed to a specific area.One has them directed into a gap for a coil like in a wind turbine, the other to the surface to massively increase the field strenght in that area.If you take either apart you will notice the magnet just by itself is considerably weaker.Removing a pole from a magnet...If you paid attention so far and have a few magnets around then you already developed a feeling for the difference.Lets crank it up a notch, shall we?Make this experiment:Take two identical magnets and a soft steel bar or similar of lesser thickness than the magnets.Usually around 2-3mm for smaller N52 Neodymiums will do.If you dare make the steel the same size as the magnets.Now place one magnet on the steel and use the other to observe the difference in feel.There won't be much and both poles should still fell like before only that the field is now slightly longer.Trying to get two magnets to touch at the same pole is really hard, but see what happens if you add the other magnet on the other side of the steel...Despite having the same pole on the steel they won't repel and stick to the steel.Checking the field now with a magnet provides a very different feel!It is like having a magnet with a split pole where the opposing pole now is in the center.Impossible I know but you have it in your hand, so deal with the explanation yourself ;)And if that is so damn easy then how hard can it be to actually remove one pole fully?Design of the impossible magnet...If you want the south pole only then it would be the entire surface of your impossible magnet.That means you either need to make sacrifices or get creative for the next steps.Easiest from my experiments is to sacrifice like all scientists do and allow for some minor gaps.I won't give any dimension or step by step instructions.Think 3D and use your imagination.Our impossible magnet starts from the center.All magnets used should provide the same field strenght!To be precise it means no matter their grade, the the "force" of the magnets should be as close to identical as possible even if the size is different.You can use stacks or different types/grades...The center is a square block of soft steel, or iron as pure as possible - it needs to have a low "resistance" if you compare them to batteries and to avoid confusing terms.On this "dice" you place one magnet on each face, preferably of identical size to the block.So, for a 10x10mm block you use 10x10mm magnets -simple isn't it.All magnets are place with the same pole onto the block!In out example to get the south pole outside you would use the north pole.Now use six bigger magnet blocks for another layer.This time they are placed in attraction mode, meaning you let them stick together naturally.The resulting magnet will be far from perfect but you will have a hard time finding a strong attraction to the soth pole of a magnet if you move it around your cube.If you check the geometry you will now see how 45° degree angles and matching sizes for the blocks would be beneficial.Using ferrite magnets you can machine them to the desired size and use a thin aluminium or breass frame to hold the outside properly together, like edging on a fancy tranport box or chest.Check the magnet now and try to find anything else but a destict south pole on all faces and corners.No more nother pole....Does that mean it really is a mono or single pole magnet?Since modern science does not even consider a construction like this to be worth testing you already know the anser.For those working on a different level with magnets it will be a true single pole magnet.For the rest it will just be another fake.As by science a permanent magnet is defined to have two poles and to have field lines going from one pole to the other.All modern machines using them operate on this principle and "fact".But if I would give you a block of steel that has a core of lets say brass and a suffien wall thickness...Then this block would appear to be a steel block and nothing else.Modern science fails to see a magnet any other than a battery!If the "current" does not need to go back to same pole and there is no need for the field lines to go back to the outside pole then it is a single ple magnet like the faked box is a steel box.The physical outcome or in our case magnetic field is what defines it!The contra...All good has some bad, magnets are no different.Purely scientific viewed it would be impossible to create a gap free magnet like I described.And because never all field lines will take the shortcut there will still be a small amount of "north pole" to be found on the outside.But if that is in the range of about 1% of the field strength of the magnet then I say it can be neglected for almost all real life uses of such a magnet.Like the Halbach Array it is just a neat way of manipulating and if you like bending the known interpretation of our scientific understanding.Possible uses for these magnets exclude convention designs and for this reason alone anything you create with them will be the target of scepticism to say it nice.Ok then, what real life uses could there be for something we never needed?The question is the answer, as the impossible magnet is the solution.Ever watched these shopping shows in the night program?"It solves problems you didn't even know you might get..."Means that if you ever get the ide that your project requires a single pole magnet then you know how to make one ;)All I can up with would go against common scientific understanding and teachings, so I will spare you with my use cases ;)And what is missing here to actually make it work?Quite a lot as you might have noticed in your experiments if you use really good test equippment.Not so much however if you consider what I said about shielding and choking ;)Provide a path of far less resistance and shield the rest that still bothers you.I am not providing a ready to go model here that you can buy, someone else will do that if they see a financial gain it.My gain is provide a new understanding of things we forgot by giving your brain things to work with and develop.You might still say in the end that my way (or your results) are not good enough in some way.But then please also consider how many other people or documents you might be able to find that would have provided you with this information.Free energy is only a myth for as along as we allow ourselfs to only trust what modern science allows us to have.Allow the old knowledge in and every now and then simple ignore what you know and things become possible sooner than you might think.Wind and water were used as a source of free energy since the dawn of mankind.Our first motorised boats used the same "wheels" we already trusted to be driven by water to power a mill, saw or similar.And after we learned about motors we also found a way to make wind - by reversing our trusted wind mills into a fan.Instead of using the free energy to generate power for us we evolved to use create wind and propulsion by providing power to drive the same thin in reverse.Using the sun for power other by using a mirror was seen as witchcraft throughout history, then we got solar cells...Same for heat in the form of peltier elements and other things...Why then should magnets be any different??Just "Because it is so!" did not work for wind, water and solar, not even for heat....All it takes is a little notch in the right direction to change the way we think about magnets.We have no problem using electromagnets to make a motor spin.We have no problem using magnetic field of any kind to drive motors or generate electricity.We even fail to have a problem by manipulation electromagnetic fields for that purpose.But we struggle like an ant in sand hole to reach the surface again to see what is outside our trap before something grabs us from behind when it comes to permanent magnets.Even worse if you dare to claim your magnetic machine delivers a higher output energy than what you use to make it run.And wasn't it exactly the same ignorance and manifested "knowledge" that got revised so many times throughout history already?Again: Why should magnets or their understanding of interaction be any different?If you follow the above with just matching magnets and the core cube then the result will be at least very surprising to you.Allow this surprise to be an inspiration to improve instead of seeing as a proof of failure ;)And if you made it then please post about it here.Let me know what disappointed you with the outcome.Let me know what really got you wondering.Let me know if you found a suffiently strong north pole to rival the impossible southpole! ;)Start sharing, make other people wonder and make them share it to, let us go viral!The first to post a conclusive Youtube video with results is certain to get a lot, lot, lot attention....

Topic by Downunder35m