Hi, how do I make a compressor to run a air brush spray gun from a fridge compressor, Iv'e taken a compressor from an old fridge, which of the pipes do I need to block? Any help appreciated micky g
Question by mickyg88 | last reply
Hi, how do I make a compressor to run a air brush spray gun from a fridge compressor, Iv'e taken a compressor from an old fridge, which of the pipes do I need to block? Any help appreciated micky g
Question by mickyg88 | last reply
Was de-icing my haier mini fridge, when I accidentally punctured a tiny hole in freezer wall cooling line, it hissed for like 2 seconds. Is it safe to plug back in? and can I patch the hole?
Question by brandon.salinas.319 | last reply
Some people just love to play with magnets and have a lot of them.If you are just like that and like to tinker a bit then I might have something for you.What magnets you use for the following experiment does not really matter but you should have 20 or 30 of identical properties.Can be disk magnets, block magnets or cubes, just not spheres ;)If you have a 3D printer you use it to make it fancy but a peice of wood, acrylic or such and a drill will do for round magnets.For cubes or flat packs you can make retaining walls on a flat surface.The experiment goes like this:I assume you already tried ways to combine your magnets to make them stronger, like stacking them up.But there is another way to really increase how strong they are combined.Start with one magnet at the center.Then like a ring add more magnets around it but with the oppisite side up.The created mounting solution is to prevent them flipping up and together, you want them as close as possible though.Add another ring and change the direction of the field again.Try this magnet, once all magnets are secured and compare the holding strenght to any other combo you tried so far.It will be much higher for the same amount of magnets.If you want to prevent the use of glue then try to create your mounting system with a really flat but strong enough bottom - this will then be the contact surface.Slightly reduced strength but you can re-use magnet with ease.But if you want to get a really strong one you need cube magnets.Like before you want to create some sort of grid, this time we go for a square.Start with cube in the center, facing north up.Leave enough space in your construction to add 8 more cubes around it - like on the face of a rubik's cube.Leave them empty for now !Add nother row, this time 16 to keep the square.Of course these one go with the south side facing up!Again one empty of 48 and then one last one with north side up with 196 magnets.Ok, to be fair, you wouldn't be able to pull it off a metal surface unless you used really tiny cubes, so if in doubt then go for just to 48 and leave the enter one out for now.Should be quite intense but similar to what any other shaped magnet would have done.Time to fill the voids!Add the cubes in the spce between the magnets so the north and south side face the magnets next to it!So basically sideways but in the correct orientation.You can then also add the center piece - try either orientation for that one ;)What happened now is that you forced the magnetic field lines to go up instead od for trying to go the easiest and shortest way to the next magnet.And "up" is where our magnetic surface would be, which provides the now overdue shortcut for the magnetic fields.Be amased how much stronger this version is and how much even 3x3x3 cubes would accomplish.With 10x10x10mm N52 magnets you might be able to use them support our wieght if you pull straight dwon from a horizontal surface...Ok, kidding, not just might, unless you are really big...One 10x10x10 might hold about 6kg.Stacked up a bit more but having 20 or stcked up would not be much stronger than 10.Even just 25 magnets with one in the center, one row of sideways orientated and one row with opposing field to the center one would be hard to remove from a steel surface.If we go with the imagined 6kg per magnet we could assume to get 25 x 6 = 150kg of holding power.Check you single magnet first then compare to the square of 25 ;)Consider using some plastic between magnet and surface so you can at least slide or pry it off if you have to.You can also combine magnets or a new one that has one side appear much stronger than the other.Meaning that for example on the north side it could hold 20kg while on the south side only 5.
Topic by Downunder35m
Anybody ever tried to use a freezer or fridge condenser to preheat water (before sending it to water heater)? I'm thinking about an easy setup; a coil of copper tubing fastened to the condenser. I know It seems insignificant, but given the low cost of the setup, i think it could be worth it.
Question by jemor143 | last reply
This spring I am looking to build a pontoon boat from scratch (Besides the pontoon logs). Its going to be a large boat and I am wanting a few amenities to go along with it. Im trying to figure away convert the car battery wich is on the boat to power appliances such as mini-fridge, lights, radio, box fan, and maybe a PS2 with Television. I need a high wattage out-put to power everything too. For sure: 8 lights - 75 Watts ea. 20 inch tall Mini-fridge - 200 watts Stereo - 150 watts Box Fan - 120 Watts Maybes: PS2 - 180 watts 20" Television - 300 watts I want this to work if all the for sures were going at once. I want to know how many car batteries I will need approx for 10 hours (or longer) of use with the "For Sures" And I want a clean way of doing this. Any advice would be much appreciated!
Topic by d_child | last reply
I live in a converted bus made into a mobile home in Outback Australia. I'm currently building a 'Solar System' so I can go anywhere without relying on hooking up to mains power. The biggest problem I'm having is finding an 'Inverter' that will handle power consumption to run my 'Fridge' and ''Air Conditioner', I have a 2500w Inverter but this can only run an 'Aircon' up to 300w, so tell me where you can get one that runs at this power level !! I have an idea that may get over both problems (Fridge and Aircon). I was looking through 'ebay' and found a 80L Fridge/Freezer that runs on 12v, mainly used for 4WDs and RVs. I'm just wondering if I could somehow carefully drill a hole into the freezer cabinet and coil copper or aluminum small bore pipe around the internal walls of this, then have a small 12v DC Pump circulating 'Antifreeze' or similar through a external radiator with fan blowing through this into my living area. I know this will be a drain on batteries as the freezer will be constantly running due to the warmer return fluid circling around inside the cabinet, but I'm not really worried about this as I will have 4 Solar Panels totaling around 500w production at 7-8amps and 4 Deep Cycle Batteries rated at 100ah each, total 400ah. Will this setup be efficient as a air cooling system without effecting the frozen food in my freezer too much. Would love to here any comments on this and also any suggestions will be gratefully accepted. Regards Keith
Question by Keefe | last reply
I have 150W peltier element, and I plan to build a mini fridge for my car, so I was wondering if its safe to just directly connect peltier element to 12v car cigarette socket with 2 in parallel attached cpu cooling fans (12v 0.15A). Can it be done, or any other sugesstions?
Question by xtony666 | last reply
I need some help! I just moved into a home in Marysville, Oh. Last month we were not living here, had the heat pump set at 65, fridge, and deep freezer and hot water heater were plugged in. Nothing else going, because we were at our other house, packing up. Electric bill came, we used 3200 kwh, I called and had heat pump looked at, everything is running correctly, ugh 150 dollars to find out it was perfect. Electric company came out, meter checked out, and was dead on, actually lagging by 1%. Everyone says heatpumps are more efficient, I lived in Fl for 30 yrs with electric central heat and air, never spent over 900kwh a month on electric bill. This is a small house, 1200sf.. no basement, what should I check next? I bought a kwh meter and tested fridge, its normal ussage, hot water tank is set at 120.. where do i go from here? Also the heat man told me to use emergency when its below 30, I did this for 24 hrs, and used 175kwh, so i switched em heat off!
Question by mlvirsack | last reply
I'm building a Keg-erator out of a used Bourbon Barrel. I've stripped the guts from a 'Dorm Fridge' and planned on using it as my cooling element, but when I plug it in, it only runs for about 10 seconds, then shuts off. I tried to make sure the grounds were attached to: (first the metal bands on the barrel, then second the piece of metal, then onto the floor). I'm wondering if the fact that the compressor is now on it's side has anything to do with it, or if it is in fact a grounding issue. The outlet does not trip when plugged in. Anyone have any ideas?
Question by WKrottIII | last reply
I have a small chest freezer and a mini fridge that I keep things in and i wanted to know if there was a product on the market that could provide lighting to these? I dont want to drill into the units so something battery powered would be ideal, if anyone had an Idea of something that could be made that would be good as well. The closest thing I found was this http://www.amazon.com/Coleman-Auto-On-LED-Cooler-Light/dp/B0043A3370/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid;=1306905359&sr;=8-2 and it is really close but I thought I would put my problem before this infinitely creative community.
Question by RichardHellyer | last reply
I got another weird idea that I like to share as I don't see me putting into reality anytime soon but someone else might do it for me after reading it ;) If you like me and call home where it is far too hot for most of the year you might have wondered how to cut the energy bills down. Especially if you in a remote area "off the grid". Sounds interesting? Then just do me the favour of posting here if you plan to put into reality and keep us updated ;) Technology has come long way and with some mirror like Mylar foil anyone can build big reflectors to use the sun for heating all sorts of things. Modern solar hot water systems are designed to produce a temp high enough to kill all harmfull stuff that might otherwise grow in our system but we can one step further: (Keep in mind it is just an idea with no prototype to proofe the concept works as expected!) Using heat pipes in a round reflector that is linked to solar tracker would allow us to boil water for as long as the sun is out there. Don't know if the flat types used for hot water systems are capable of producing steam but someone might have an old one at hand and is willing to test it on a sunny day? Anyway, assuming we can build a large enough array of solar ovens heating water pipes it is possible to drive a turbine with the steam. A linked generator of suitable size would now provide the electricity we might need to charge batteries or to power other things. But of course this would be total waste of the remaining energy in the steam! Plus we could really need some airconditioner, don't we? So in my vision we don't want to waste the water either, which mean we not only use the heat but also reuse the water to go back into the solar oven. If we now use an uscaled version of our RV fridge and instead of a heating element or a flame our remaining heat from the steam we can power a big fridge and an airconditioner on the same continous-cycle-ammonia-fridge type to cool what we need. Depending on the size and insulation rating of a house it is possible to be totally independent from the power grid during the sunny times. During the winter times the same generator can be combined with a ducted heating system where the waste heat of it is used to produce the steam we need. Of course integrating this into one unit would be the prefered option to keep the physical dimensions small. Combine all this with some good sized battery backup and inverter system and you might have enough juice to spare to make it through a cloudy day or two. Add some wind generators if you are in a suitable area to provide additional electricty. I think with new parts and some handy work it should be possible to create such a system for under $3000US. With access to some well sorted scrap yards even for free, not counting consumables, selants and so on... Sadly I don't own a house and currently not even have a garage to set up a little workshop so for now it stays an idea only... Tried to find some sponsors or at least people with interest to create something like this down here but it is like trying to explain quantum physics to a hundred year old in the retirement village. Sure, you can build something that would give me electricity and cooling for free? ... Of course it will work, so come back and show me once you made it.... If that crap could work, why are still buying fridges that run on electricty and airconditioners that drain our bank accounts?... We have 5 cooling containers outside runningon generators that use over 200liters of fuel every day and come try to tell me a steam generator can cut me fuel bills down by at least 50% if not more?... Just some of the more friendlier responses I got after trying to find some interest. Don't know if it is problem of the Aussie mentality or if I am just unable to make someone understand that we can use the scorching sun for free :( But I am not willing to give up on the idea itself, so what do you think? Oh! You have the financial means and access to create some prototype to integrate into a new cool house or self sustaining home? Please feel free to contact me so we can start and make a living out of it ;)
Topic by Downunder35m | last reply
Hi all, I have a WAGAN Slimline 1500 watt Inverter. I ran the output through the breaker box in the house, which is grounded. I used my car to run the system, but had another, larger battery in parallel with the car battery. The unit ran everything in the house. Microwave, fridge, lights and TVs. Had the unit going for about eight hours, then decided to give it a break and turned it off. I then experienced a very dramatic fireworks / light / smoke show. I was most upset. I know enough about electronics to figure that the inverter was toast. I put it down and forgot about it. Two years later I broke out the electronics gear and decided that I would try and fix it (the fact that another storm had passed through leaving us without light again probably had something to o with it!) I found that the MOSFET's on one side of the circuit board, all eight of them, were completely gutted. Talk about your catastrophic faliure. The MOSFETS are Fairchild FDP8770 N-Channel. There are eight other MOSFET's on the opposite side of the board, LVP640's (N Channel also). They look fine. The fans were working at the time of the fireworks. My questions are: 1) Why did it blow up when the unit was being turned off? 2) If I start the car with the Inverter connected will it do any harm to it, and why? 3) I see three pots on the board, and am decent with a soldering iron. I want to fix it myself. Assuming I can get the parts I think it needs, Do I need to match the MOSFETs, which would mean I might have to throw away some good looking LVP640's, and how do I go about doing this? The board is set up with four transformers, and each is in series with a fuse. None of the fuses blew. I know that I'm kinda above my head in this, but I wanna try. Thanks for any help I can get!
Question by BoogWar | last reply
The storm that swept through Ohio last Friday (seems like an eternity ago) took out our power. It may not be restored until sometime next week (ah, life in the country). We are used to this sort of thing in the winter and are prepared for it. However, we are not prepared to deal with it when it is this hot. I have a small generator that can run a fan and a few lights and am prepared to sacrifice the contents of the fridge. My generator doesn't put out enough power to run a window AC unit much less our central AC unit. My neighbor has a gas powered generator that is big enough to do the trick but he is pouring so much money into the tank that he might as well stay at a hotel. So anyhow I looked into getting a PTO driven generator to run off my Kubota BX1500 (think diesel engined, 4wd lawn mower on steroids rather than tractor-it's a tiny little thing). It really doesn't burn all that much fuel and it offers the option of using home brewed biodiesel (damn the Tax Man-full speed ahead!). Here's the rub though: you need about 2 hp/kw to run a generator off the PTO. My Kubota has about 12.5 hp. The smallest PTO driven generator I can find (Norther Tool) is a 10 KW unit. That won't work out very well. However, they also have a 2900 watt belt driven generator head that would be large enough to do the job. I suppose I could mig together an angle iron frame that will hook to the three point hitch and mount the generator head and the driven jack shaft but I don't have any experience in building belt drive units. Soooo, anybody out there have any experience in cobbling together belt drive units from scratch? The tractor's PTO shaft turns at 540 rpm but the generator really won't work right unless it turns at least 3600 rpm (interestingly the ratio works out to be 6.66 to 1, possibly not a good omen). Grainger has a large (if over priced) selection of pulleys that will get me in the ballpark. This still leaves a lot of questions though, probably more that I can think of since I have no experience in belt drive systems. I am specifically worried about how to set up the necessary bearings to support the jack shaft that connects the PTO shaft to the drive pulley. For that matter I don't know where to get a shaft that has PTO splines on one end and a keyway on the other. In any case, one of you guys have probably already done this or something pretty close to it. So how about letting the rest of us in on all the necessary tricks? Thanks!
Question by Ogg1 | last reply
After finding out my favourite catch of a good fishing day won't fit into any normal foodsealer bag or tube I wasted a few hours thinking about the problem.... These normal food sealers are like an injet printer - you pay the real price through the consumables. And with those I already noticed cheap only too often means bad quality unless you got the bargain price for ordering in bulk. My favourite kebab shop has a big commercail sealer that is used for packing stuff for other stores and catering. So I ordered a fresh and extra spicy kebab and asked if it would be possible to take a closer look on this sealer thing they use. No problem for a good customer like me but of course I was asked to finnish my kebab first and to use the provided gloves if I want to touch anything - freshly sanitised and so on.... I was surprised by two facts: a) the price of close to 5grand b) the simplicity of the thing Was not allowed to take pictures, so sorry for that as this time I really wanted some. From what I could gather without taking it apart is that 3mm stainless steel is used for a big "pan". About 80cm long, 50wide and 30 high. On the outside several pieces of square tubing, most likely to prevent warping under a high vacuum, although 3mm stainless already takes a lot. The lid was 5mm stainless with several thick viewing windows in it to check the correct placement and sealing action. Of course I am not really planning to go that big, for now anyway..... For the inside there were several frames available to cater for pots, bags, loose stuff and so on. Purpose of these frames was to make sure the bag used will be held with the open end inside the sealing section. The heating element or strip was on the floor of the pan and a push bar was mounted to the lid to give the desired pressure once the lid is locked in place. Time for the actual heat sealing of the bag is started with two switches on the locking clamps. The top bar is mounted with two springs, I assume to allow for just enough pressure for the air to be sucked out of the bag while still performing a good seal during the heating. Getting suitable parts can be as easy as to salvage an old vacuum sealer and to use a frying pan or as "complicated" as building one from scratch with a powerful vacuum pump or old fridge compressor - I like the second better ;) But after a few Instructables and still several in the making I thought the old thing of "group therapy" would be nice for this one. We are from all over world and certainly not everything I can get around the corner is available for someone from the remote areas of India or South America. And I am almost certain that someone might have a great idea on what common and easy to obtain stuff can be used for the vacuum chamber for example. Another one might already have a heating wire solution for the sealing that is cheap and reliable. You get the picture.... Why would I want to do this with several people from all over the world, maybe even fighting language problems? The benefits are there is you look for them ;) With a limited set of "rules" on certain areas of the project we get the benefit of: a) Having an instant proove of concept with actually working devices for our readers. b) A much greater chance that anyone can repeat the success at home and with already several working designs to choose from. c) A chance of actually "working" together on something with some of the great people here! d) Something new that is not a contest or challange. e) Hopefully a lot of fun on the way :) Of course and in the case this actually catches on, it would be great to somehow create a collection for this project. Like when you add several Ibles to your collection but so everyone who made one can add it. So anyone up for it?
Question by Downunder35m | last reply
When someone starts talking about a so called magnetmotor than most people judge right away.Laws of physics, perpetuum mobile is impossible, magnets are static....We all know the limitations nature puts on us... That however did not stop quite a few people since the 1950's to build working magnet motors. Or, to be precise: To make the claim, show them and then somehow disappear. A few though seem to have survived and even claim to make good business. Securely closed machine, stellite tracking and 24/7 online monitoring. Either just a bad and long running hoax or a real attempt to keep a secret secret. Even the somewhat famous Yildiz motor showed off around the world only to disappear.Some like them, some don't. Either way all this sounds like the perfect conspirary theory LOL So lets take a look on what is fake and what might be real but missing some vital clues. You can find several good Youtube channels created by people trying to build a working magnet motor. Some of them have no problems to admit failure and still keep trying and updating their projects. Did long enough and you see two outcomes. The first is giving up or "realising" that it will never work. The second often seems like a user is getting some relly good results and is really close to keep the magnetmotor running. Both disappear without and updates or traces. Now of course this is just confirmation that it will never work, but then again: What if it did already quite a few times? Even Tesla had patents for a magnetmotor and so far none of his patents were a hoax. Although none of his patents allow to actually build a working devices without some additional info and knowledge. And that is the key that I am trying to get: The lost knowledge.How can a magnetmotor never work? That one is quite simple from the start. If a linear model won't work no matter where you start then a rotary version will fail as well. And if a linear version works, it has to do so far at least 5 segments and with preferably increasing or at least constant speed. Having said that and assuming you know a little bit about magnetism: Ever wondered about shapes of magnets?? The common types are block, round like a bar and those disk like ones, some even with holes. A less well known version is the ring magnet. You can look them up as well as their corresponding magnetic field geometry - or what is assumed to be the right geometry. To give you a clue: All those floating spinning toys use a ring magnet in the base and onother one in the spinner. In the center is a dead zone for the magnetic field that is far lower than further out on the ring. And the strnger outer fields also reach further - giving the entire spinner a bowl like area to float on, the spinning just stabilises it like a gyroscope. A similar flat disk magnet wouldn't have this indentation in the field but rather a dome like sphere. The ring just kicks a dint into this sphere if you don't mind the simpification. Similar changes in the field structure happen when you combine two or more magnets. One example we all know is stacking identical smaller magnets. And often we are suprised how much stronger two thin disk magnets are compared to a single. Distance however sets a certain limit. And take those hook magnets... Just a small ring magnet in a metal pot with core. Remove the magnet and just by itself it is far weaker. Why? Quite simple.... The same way a transformer core directs the magnetic flow, the metal part of the hook magnet provides a shortcut for the magnetic field - and in return all is much stronger ;) Now you have some more clues, but still there are tons of options for failure... The most common is the sticking effect. No matter how well you planned and designed in most cases you linear or rotary prototype will stall sooner or later. Even if started manually at high speeds some seem to run very long but once they slow down and stop it is obvious they always stop where the magnetic field won't allow the binding effect to be overcome.Wouldn't dare to say that I have a working magnetmotor, but I might have some clues you want to try if you decide to give it a try yourself. So how COULD a magnetmotor actually work? Like in the Perendiv examples all over the web, you could aloow a moving responder to the rotor. Like a piston the responder will be lifted in areas it would otherwise limit or reduce the speed of the system. Well designed only a few mm would b required but it also means wasted energy to move the responder. Then there is the nice way of modifying fields by adding magnets in different angles and polarities. Lets say towards the end of your stages on the linear model it is hard to overcome the binding effect from the end of the previous stage. The perendiv model would now somehow change the distances. But you can also add magnets to lower the binding effect ;) Like a ring or hook magnet you can shape the field and offer a stronger repulsin field or a lower binding force. Last but certainly not least is the option of adding magnetic metals like iron or somehow weirder ones like bismuth. So, do we have any examples of something very common utilising any of this? We sure do :) Take a speaker apart and you end with the cage, the membrane, the actual work coil and the magnet. We don't need anything but the magnet so take a good and very close look. What in the audio world is called a shield to prevent the magnet from messing with things close by is exactly the same as on a hook magnet ;) Only difference is the tiny gap for the coil. The magnetic field is directed into two paths, one by the metal core, the other by the inner enclosure of the magnet or the magnet itself. The coil operates in the area of maximum flux.Last hints... If you take two identical and strong magnets with north or south facing up then it is quite hard to push them very close together. But check what happens if you try the same wen both soth poles (or both north poles) are placed on a magnetic surface - if in doubt your standard fridge door. Suddenly you can move much closer together with the same amout of force (not considering the added friction!). And similar story for opposing configurations. Where in free air or on a table the magnets would just jump together, on a metal plated you can move them much, much closer before this happens. Copper pipe and magnet fun :) Ideally you would have a straight copper pipe and a cylindrical magnet that has a loose fit in the pipe. Aluminium pipe work too or even a roll of aluminium foil if you have nothing else. A magnet in the pipe will travel very slow down the pipe, friction is not an issue here. So what is slowing it down? The magnet creates a field in the pipe and through that the pipe generates electicity. And funny enough this electricity creates an opposing magnetic field in the pipe - the magnet slows down. Even if you glue it onto a wooden stick it won't rush through it. Trying to push it by hand and you feel the created resistance. The faster you push, the harder it is to push! If you made it all the way down here with the reading then I have to assume you fit into one of three of my categories. a) You are a total sceptic and just read it for your amusement. If so, then please don't post a reply with usual negative feedback, instead see it as the same fun you had reading it ;) b) You are at least curious and like to play with magnets. In this case take the above as inspiration to explore more ways to have fun with your magnets! c) You are more or less frustated because you wasted a lot of time and some money to build a magnet motor that just won't work. A and B might go on and enjoy the fun, C however might want to read very attentive now ;) If you take some indicator sheet for magnetic fields, like these funny green ones, and play with moving magnets then you see a very interesting effect on the "screen". The otherwise static field lines change chape and sometimes even seem to disappear or shrink. With a small rotor assembly it almost looks like flashes when the magnets move past each other. This effect is often totally neglected and to be honest I overlooked it for a long time as well. Being able to see how the magnetic field changes gives the thing an whole new dimension so to speak. Creating a magnet with a complex shape is difficult to say the least. Only ferrite or ceramic ones can be used and you would cut of machine them according to your desired shape and with regards to the orginal center of the magnetic field. So most people revert to the classic way of shaping by adding magnets of various types, sizes and amounts. Modern neodymium magnets make this trial and error process easier as there are many sizes and strengths available. Add a detector shield of suitable size and you have hours of fun time ahead of you. But doing so in any rotary assembly is next to impossible. So what did Yildiz differently and what was missed so many times? Yildiz took it a step further and not only provided "shunts" to create very strong magnetic field from the generated electricity but also a second rotor. Since we all start small lets focus on the basics first. Remember the hook magnet and speaker or the copper pipe? Some examples for shape shifting your otherwise static magnetic fields: 1. A magnetic metal "connection" from one (low in the armature) pole to an opposing (high in the amature) pole with cause the field from the "high" pole to "bend" towards the connected magnet. 2. A magnet with an orientation of 90° to the last magnet is the sequence will severely influence the field of this last magnet! This goes for either orientations! 3. Adding a non-magnetic "shield" around a magnet, like a piece of copper pipe, will not affect the static field of the magnet. However it will severely alter the field of the enclosed magnet when another magnet passes it! It will also affect the overal field during the passing as the moving magnet will also induce a field in the copper by affecting the field of the enclosed magnet! Thickness and lenght of the shield influence the strength of these effects. 4. In a simple perendiv motor design the bar that creates the attraction for the spinning part is a magnet too. Either a long bar type or two small ones with an iron or nickel rod between them. There is no need for a piston or something that drives the bar up or out of the way ;) Just use the right magnet at the right spot on your rotor to repell the bar ;) Mount the ar with suitable springs and you suddenly can have multiple stages on your rotor instead of just the usual one! Don't forget the moving magnet on the opposing side of the segment in question though as otherwise you still will get stuck. (Hint: You can place a small but powerful magnet in the center of the opposing bar ;) Just make sure you limit the springs movement so the bar won't be pulled closer)Ok, hold on now! Does a magnet motor actually work or not? I can only give hints and say the laws of physics as we know them apply to magnetmotors the same way as everything else. Unlimeted motion without supplying energy is not possible. Limited motion with adding or using energy however is still possible and real. The same is true for being able to machine, 3D print or otherwise manufacture at very tight tolerence and accuracy levels. This includes bearings or bearing systems with very little friction losses. Just check these floting and rotating magnet toys that look like a spindle. Only a tiny needle like pin makes contact with a glass surface - next to no friction loss. A proper and supposedly working magnet motor should provide more energy than what it uses - one way or the other. No law of physics lets us get around the fact that such a motor could only keep spinning if the produced power or motion energy is at least the same as what is required to make it move. Magnets lose their strenght over time, they are like a very slowly depleting battery. So, isn't it funny that all magnet motors so far that claimed to work also had the requirement to replace the magnets once the things fails to work or start? And if you leave a very strong neodymium magnet shielded from outside fields or magnetic stuff than your grandkids will still find a quite strong magnet. Do a little performance test with your new magnets, like how much force is required is required to lift them off a steel plate. Make the same test with the magnets once you played around extensively with them in your motor. Now take a spare magnet that was never used from the orginal batch and compare both against each other ;) If the motor would not use energy then why are the magnets depleted to a certain degree, realted to runtime and usage time? Wait a minute! Does that now mean it actually works? Lets just say energy is certainly used. We only know similar effects from electromagnetic systems. But did anyone ever really check how much actual energy is in magnetic field generated by a non electric magnet? Get a good sized N52 neodymium magnet and check how much force is required to pull it off a steel surface. Now try to get the smallest sized electromagnet capable of that force and check how much energy it consumes at the level that equals the pulling force of the N52 magnet ;) Makes no sense to even try to compare these you will say now. I just say energy is energy and we were formed to only think in certain ways and don't even try silly things like this ;) To keep the fun up let us imagine we would actually have a similar energy available than what our electro magnet would require. In reality more because we wouldn't have electrical or flux related losses in the metal around the coil. Or is the imagined reality, no clue ;) If true it would mean even a motor with very bad efficiency would be able to create huge amounts of torque. Well, torque is basically acceleration. Which would mean our motor would not just be happy to spin, it would speed up until the bearing fail or the thing is ripped apart. Imagine a dental drill of that size and weight suddenly falling apart at full speed... Every example of motors claimed to be working, that are not fakes, seem to be happy no matter what the load is. It the thing turns a generator than it would have to slow down a bit with the increased load but they don't. With no limited factors otherwise this makes them a fake. Even a perfect motor would have to react to load changes.... Don't we agree that the stronger the magnetic force or field in a conductor the stronger the resulting magnetic and opposing field of the conductor? We use the difference to either drive a motor or take out electricity... But if you take the "open" shielding of a magnet in a changing field than the influence of the shield on the overall field gets stronger with stronger field changes. And properly desinged and orientated they would actually double as a natural limiter for the rotation speed. Once the electrical energy in the shield becomes too strong it will be able to cancel out the field of the enclosed magnet...If we assume a magnet motor is really possible and works with the intended output to keep it spinning or even take energy out: Then what would be possible downfalls that stop this thing happening in everyones garage? We can explore the stars but so far no one bothered to invent anything to visualise magnetic field in a 3 dimensional way other than by simulation. No realtime and true observation like this. The few working technologies that exist rely on sensors, interpretaion and filling in gaps. But imagine something like a detector shield as cloud! And then even better with selctive spacing to get a realtime view of where exactly the field lines go. All we can do is forget our teaching and try it out anyway ;) If by some mistake a magnet motor would really work right away, then chances are high the inventor would wonder why that thing takes off like mad and how to stop it. Unless well prepared it would certainly end in the destrution of the motor. But the inventor would know what to look for in the next prototype. The logical conclusion would be to the couple the energy taken to the speed while physically limittin the free load speed. The other one would be the design the electrical generator around the and within the motor. To even get close to this point you would have to spend endless days and nights working on finding a solution. The closer you get the more disappointment when the final model still fails to keep spinning for more than a few hours. Most people will then accept defeat and move on... Still not saying it actually works but if you made it to this point in time where it could be easier to move on and do other things:Ever wondered what would happen if you "shield" a magnet with a coil? Of course nothing would happen as we know. But try this in some fixed assembly that allows you move another magnet through the field of the shielded one. Perferably witha force gauge or some option to read out the energy required to move it through the various stages of the field. See what happens if you short the coil or add a resistor to it ;) Now if this coild is able to produce electricity then the more we use the more the effects on the required force would change. What do you think would happen if you combine common coil relations of electric motors to a "coil shielded" magnet motor? Right, all these coils would interact with the magnetic fields of the coils they are connected to... And through that with the overall field surrounding the enclosed magnet..... I leave up to you to imagine how these interacting coils could provide "resistance" or "acceleration"/"surplus electricity"...Like they say: You can only find out if you try ;) To keep up the positive thinking: A permanent magnet just sticks to any magnetic surface and does so with the same force. But the real energy loss in terms of getting weaker can almost be neglected. Any electromagnet capable of the same holding force woul require ongoing energy supplies to keep it up. It is using energy the same way the permanent magnet does! The difference is the permanent magnet is not seen as anything that would provide us with energy.... And if it can't provide energy other than passing through coils then why the heck does it keep sticking to the fridge year after year? It does require energy to keep this weight up doesn't it, even if you add a thin teflon disk and oil to reduce friction? ;) No magic, no "free energy" bogus, just plain physics viewed from a slightly different angle than what we learn in school ;) Have a good laugh and a good beer, then read it again and just consider some of the things here that are not mentioned in any literature about magnetism that we commonly use. Now I got you thinking, didn't I ? ;)
Topic by Downunder35m | last reply