how do I design a log truss ?

Need to design and build a log truss to span 25 ft using logs with 14inch buts 12in tips snow load for se minnasota with 8  12 pitch white pine logs thanks alot

Question by logbuilder   |  last reply

I need a way to hold cedar logs to cut into boards with electric chain saw!? Answered

I am making a bow and arrow rack I saw in a magazine. They want $50.00 dollars for it, plus shipping. So being frugal, I have plenty of dead cedar logs around for projects, I will make my own. I just can't seem to come up with a way to hold the logs (28" L x about 10: D) . Anyone got any suggestions ?

Question by triumphman   |  last reply

How to create time log for laser cutting machine?

I need to record total time spent by the oaser cutting machine, something like a time log to calculate the whole set of jobs done per day instead of recording it manually, is there such a thing? I am getting a chinese laser cutting machine, it only has a timer that shows the time per job.

Question by asafwat3   |  last reply

How long should I home dry a large oak log for carving? Answered

Hi, I have a large trunk piece  29" in diameter and 5 feet long with the bark still on it.  I want to dry it out for carving on one side and standing it in my yard for a decoration, similar to a totem pole.  How should I dry it and for how long?  Also, I have two pieces about 10" x 29" thick that I want to hand carve into a large bowls. Same question, how long?  And finally, I have coated the ends of the logs with black roofing tar so that the wood will not  having checking. Will this suffice for the smaller cuts as well? Thanks  Tom

Question by eagle4297   |  last reply

Building your own home...?

Suppose you buy a few acres of land, and desired to build your house with your own hands using the trees that were local. (Northeast Pennsylvania) How would you go about it? I know about taking the logs and using them like "Lincoln logs" but maybe perhaps its best to take the wood and cut it into timber, avoiding the weight of the heavy logs (then adding insulation and such, of course). But either way; how would you even treat the wood for winter/summer cycles, termites, etc? And by doing that (cutting it into timber on site) is that reliable for a long stretch of time?

Question by lutziepv08   |  last reply

Timber! How can I use large (green) logs to make some simple stools? Answered

I moved to a house in the woods, mostly pine, and a lot of it needs to come down because it was planted too close together, and also to open up the tree canopy so more light can come into the forest so more of the native plants can grow up and shield my home from view. Since tree cutters will be here for 3 - 4 days with big tools (no jokes please) what should I ask them for - for example "Could you please cut me a few 20" tall logs I can use as stools on the patio?" How then do I work with this green wood and actually make stools? I was thinking I would strip the bark, put wood glue on the ends to seal the grain so it won't split, and then....? I could use a few end tables for next to the beds or couches as well as some stools for the patio.

Question by Ninzerbean   |  last reply

I can't post a comment - get message " oops something went wrong!"

I logged in and out - no change. Is is me?

Question by chefspenser   |  last reply

Still don't understand why.....

I still don't understand why it takes me 6 clicks to get to the "recent" page. If I'm logged in and click on the "feed" button, it usually takes me to an error page (but once in a while it actually works). I have to log out, then log in again before attempting to access my feed. I've tried clearing the cache, cookies, and history first, but no luck. I use the latest version of the chrome browser. I haven't tried this with any other browser. I'm not interested in switching to another browser just to access one website. I've experienced this on both windows 7 and the chrome o/s. Simply clicking on the feed button seems like it should be just a simple thing.Once again I've placed this comment in the "workshop" category and "woodworking" channel, since there is no category or channel for feedback on website issues.

Topic by knife141   |  last reply

What is a good option for food grade epoxy/resin?

I'm making some custom mugs out of an old oak that was cut down. I'm looking for something that is food safe and will also hold the bark on the outside of the log. Suggestions?

Question by skotek   |  last reply

How can i download pdf? having problem to download pdf from this site Answered

I try to download pdf and it ask me to log in, i put my user and pass and come back to site again... tks

Question by MJCastro   |  last reply

I want to download a pdf of a product as shown on the side.

It seems impossible to download a product or what is exposed on the side. May be I di something wrong allthough I was logged in. Please explain how I can download-copy somethingg explained on the site. Errie

Question by ejpl   |  last reply

how can i transfer data file from sd card to my Windows PC through WIFI.

Hi I'm using the Arduino to log data on to an SD card and I would like to be able to transfer that file on the card to my Windows PC for further use it, through WIFI. how can i make that possible.

Topic by SoufianeG   |  last reply

Instructable emails no longer open in gmail.

One or two months ago, I stopped being able to open Instructables email links.  It used to go directly to an HTTP:// address, now it goes to " . . . . ." and the page simply says "NOT FOUND"  Evidently it's going through facebook (which I have open and logged in)  I can't even unsubscribe because it goes through that same address. Any Idea how to fix?

Question by FastElder   |  last reply

Best way to process / dry / store walnut tree's for furniture & woodturning ? Answered

I tried to make the question as descriptive as possible. I have six large, and quite old walnut trees in front of my house. They need cutting down because they are starting to grow over the house and will soon quite seriously interfere with the power lines, and are quite old also ! Otherwise I wouldnt think twice of cutting such beautiful old tree's down ( I will be replacing them also:-) ) Im also a semi skilled carpenter and starting to learn woodturning , so I am thrilled at the chance to keep this walnut, and make some beautiful things with it, especially with how beautiful the color and grain of walnut is , not to mention how expensive ! I was wondering if it would be better to take it to a small local mill and have it all cut 1st , then stack and dry store ??? I guess the pieces I would need for woodturning can be left in log form ??? Im just after any general tips and advice on how to go about it all , if leaving the logs as they are until dry , or having it professionally cut into planks 1st is ideal.

Question by jkurucz   |  last reply

Room heat transfer?

Greetings all, I live in a solar powered house which is heated by a single log burning stove which is situated in the main living area. Is it possible for me to transfer heat to the colder rooms by simply putting ducting between the top sections of the adjoining walls (seeing that hot air travels to cold areas - in theory!) or will I have to use a fan? I am trying to use as little power as possible or ideally non at all. Has anyone got any experience of this or know of any suitable solutions? Many thanks in advance.

Question by peachvw   |  last reply

Forge using wood?

I'm building a brake drum forge, and coal obviously is the fuel of choice. I understand some guys use lump charcoal which they say works well, because anthracite or bituminous coal is hard to come by in some places-- like where I live. Has anyone used just plain, good old fashioned wood? Or has anyone tried wood pellets? In my area, pellets are 10% of the price of either coal or lump charcoal. I have hundreds of trees on my ranch and I use wood for heating my log cabin. With a good air supply, will Douglas fir, other conifers, or even pellets get hot enough for forging? I'm sure wood was used in bygone times in places where there was no coal, but is it a good forging fuel? Does anyone have experience (good or bad) forging with wood? THANKS!!

Question by HenryFrapp   |  last reply

DC to AC Inverting for boat

This spring I am looking to build a pontoon boat from scratch (Besides the pontoon logs). Its going to be a large boat and I am wanting a few amenities to go along with it. Im trying to figure away convert the car battery wich is on the boat to power appliances such as mini-fridge, lights, radio, box fan, and maybe a PS2 with Television. I need a high wattage out-put to power everything too. For sure: 8 lights - 75 Watts ea. 20 inch tall Mini-fridge - 200 watts Stereo - 150 watts Box Fan - 120 Watts Maybes: PS2 - 180 watts 20" Television - 300 watts I want this to work if all the for sures were going at once. I want to know how many car batteries I will need approx for 10 hours (or longer) of use with the "For Sures" And I want a clean way of doing this. Any advice would be much appreciated!

Topic by d_child   |  last reply

"Open Link in New Tab" Issues

When you add a link within an "Ible, there's an option to have it open in a new tab. I like to add links to some of the tools and materials I use, and always check the box for that as I find it a bit irritating when the link takes you away from the page you're on.I recently was looking at one of my published 'Ibles and clicked on a link, but it doesn't open in a new tab. I went into edit mode, checked the open in new tab box, and went back to the 'Ible... same thing.I logged out and tried it again to the same result. Tried it in a different web browser just to see too.If I go into edit mode and check the box, save, go out of edit mode, and back into edit mode, the box is unchecked.Has anyone else had this issue? It doesn't affect functionality very much but is a bit of an annoyance

Topic by BakkerJo   |  last reply

Rocket Cars--Brought to you by Schamadeke's Physics Class

HI, INSTRUCTABLES. So the story is, our class is doing an experiment to see if we can log the acceleration of matchbox cars with C or B model rocket engines. (Estes, if anyone's curious about the brand.) The experiment  went... Err, well. We destroyed two photogates. Our setup is as follows: >4.8m 2x4s, with metal plates at both ends. >20-or 22-guage steel wire, running between holes in the metal plates, tied to both ends. >Photogates at more-or-less 1m intervals. >ROCKET HOT WHEELS. The experiment went over more or less as planned. We had one car's frame come loose of its body and fly away with the rocket, one work fine except for actually hitting every photogate it was supposed to pass through, and on several other runs the wire jumped up and down so much that it triggered the gates all over the place. With these difficulties in mind, we would like to ask Instructables' advice on the matter. Does the incredibly talented community of Instructables' little corner of the Interblag have any advice for us? ... Dammit, I lost the game. Anyway, go on. Oh, and that last picture contains the car that ran off the track.

Topic by ssonicblue   |  last reply

Provide 1000 cheap, wireless climate data loggers - Citizen Science Contest

The SciStarter Citizen Science Contest is live! This is your opportunity to help millions of citizen scientists contribute to real scientific discovery. Make their experiences better by coming up with solutions to some real annoyances that hinder their participation. To get you started, here is a specific--and very real--challenge sent to us by project organizers. PROVIDE 1000 CHEAP WIRELESS CLIMATE DATA LOGGERS Background: Wildlife of Our Homes provides an opportunity for citizen scientists to help researchers study the species that live alongside us everyday - bacteria, fungi, and insects. By using a sampling kit and answering a few questions, volunteers help researchers create an atlas of microbial diversity in homes across the country. The Problem: Project organizers would love to collect climate data in each of the 1000 homes where volunteers are sampling microbes from 4 common surfaces. Unfortunately, climate sensors are expensive, and more importantly, project organizers don't have an easy way to transfer data from those home sensors (temperature, humidity, etc) to an online database. Currently, they must physically retrieve and download the data. The Challenge: Find a way to log climate data and wirelessly transmit the data to the project organizers. Enter now! Contest closes January 21, 2013

Topic by scistarter   |  last reply

Printer disconnecting or USB port disappearing in Windows

First I thought to make an Instructable out of it but realised there are too many different printer models out there, so this time no images. What is this about you might wonder? Well, let me tell you my story first and you might see similarities to your problem. It all started with me getting a new PC as the old one got memory problems (RAM modules failed). After a few successful prints I noticed errors coming up in the log window. Mainly things like communication problems and that some data is sent again. Realised that on my new PC I did not check the speed settings for the COM ports, so I adjusted them to match the printer board and moved on without even bothering to check the logs. Then, half way through a bigger print, it all stopped and I could not even connect to the printer anymore. After a power cycle on the printer all was fine again but the error kept coming back every now and then. At this point I started to read up on the problem and the most common recommendation is to print over SD - too bad if your printer does not support it and too bad it does not address the issue at all! A few more technical answers pointed to the Logitech drivers, especially mouse, keyboard and 3D vision. As I was using the same outer hardware as before and also the same drivers (and same version numbers) I simply ruled this one out too, although it might be a vital clue for others. When starting to get frustrated and after opening a cold blonde I remembered that I had a similar issue a long time ago and that it was related to loose wires on the screw terminals for the power connection. Measured it all but according to my trusty multimeter all was fine. Now comes the fun part: I friend of mine with a HiFi fetisch was here when I testing the connection and he started laughing at my attempts. He explained that ALL his connections, no matter if power or audio signal are oversized! Here I started to wonder if he is up to something and looked up similar circuit board mounted power plugs. To my surprise they are all rated for anything between 1 and 5Amps. Even without a heated bed powered by the printer board I think everyone will agree that a max 5A connections is not enough. My frined then offered to check the plug and connector at his place - what a great thing to have friends :) He used a signal generator and small speaker with the plug as a connector between them. With an oscilloscope connected to both input and speaker you could see, while moving the plug, that the audio signal become somehow unclean - there where spikes and missing bits everywhere depending which way you wobble the plug. After taking the whole thing apart the destructive way we saw the cause: overheated contact areas with discolored surfaces. I replaced the plug now with a 250V/20A one from an old laser printer and had no USB or connection issues ever since. Ok, what's the thing with power and USB problems on a 3D printer? Almost all printer boards have the ground connections bridged to avoid interference on the USB signals. This mean, in case of a faulty power connection or one that is "dirty", the USB port on the computer can receive back EMF signal or even a voltage spike. In return a smart bios either disconnects the port or disables it until the problem is solved, in our case by restarting / reconnecting the printer. But even with no obvious signs of power problems you can get  a so called "dirty" connection. Dirty covers all from corrosion, worn springs for battery compartments, overheating or in the old days burnt relay contacts. For our printer it usually means that either the soldering connection on the board or a screw came loose, in rare cases like mine an undersized connector can burn out due to being unable to handle the currents. The bad thing is that you can not always spot these problems the easy way... Is there an easy way to tell that my USB problem is caused by a faulty power connection? Yes and no. Some boards offer indicating LED's, you connect power and the LED stays on even if the printer is disconnected from the PC. If it is more than just a Power on" indicator" this LED will be off after the printer stops working and in the device manager your serial port for the printer is gone. You might also hear the warning sound from Windows in regards to a device being disconnected. If all the above is true than most likely your power connection has a problem somewhere - if in doubt replace all screw and plug connectors for the power. Sometimes the problem is less obvious. Your print software might show communication problems in the log window or re-send a lot of commands. If the speed selection for the com port is the same as for the firmware of the printer board and as set in the printer software, it could also be a power connection problem. But to be on the save side try a shielded cable with ferrite cores on both ends first for the connection between computer and printer. Can I take any measures to prevent the problem? Sure, you could solder everything and make sure the wires are fixed in place so they won't move. But a simple indicator might be enough: Solder a piece of LED strip to the power connection on the circuit board - if the connection has trouble the LED's will show it in most cases by changing light levels or flickering. On top they act as a nice light to see what's happening during a print.

Topic by Downunder35m 

how to save float value EEPROM

Hi This is Eabul. i want to save data to eeprom from press button . when TemperatureUp button press. increase float data like as 0.01> 0.02--------30.10> 30.61 and this value save to eeprom. and when TemperatureDown button press . decrease float data like as 30.60>30.59-----29.10 and update minus value eeprom and increase and decrease valud view lcd display . but when press button save int number not float. and show me lcd display int value. please help how to write and read float value from eeprom. press button. hear my code. //For Display #include // 3wire display LiquidCrystal595 lcd(4, 3, 2); // DS, ST_CP, SH_CP //For time #include #include RTC_DS1307 RTC; //for humidity #include "DHT.h" DHT dht; //for stor tempereratur and humidity #include int SetHumidity; int HumidityUp = 10; // switch up is at pin 10 int HumidityDown = 11; // switch down is at pin 11 float fix = 0.01; float settemp; // make a variable called temp float TemperatureUp = 12; // switch up is at pin 12 float TemperatureDown = 13; // switch down is at pin 13 //result view int led = 0; // led is at pin 0 void setup() { //For timer Wire.begin(); RTC.begin(); //For welcome screen lcd.begin(16,4); lcd.setCursor(0,0); lcd.print("Welcome Elab"); delay(2000); lcd.clear(); //for dht-11 pin setup dht.setup(A1); // data pin 2 } void loop() { //For tempererature up / down float temp[3]; getTemp(temp); float tempererature = temp[1]; settemp =; // read the settemp on the eeprom if(digitalRead(TemperatureUp) == 1 ) { settemp+=fix; settemp++; EEPROM.write (1, settemp); /* write the most recent settemp in eeprom data stoage*/ } else {} if(digitalRead (TemperatureDown) == 1) { settemp -= fix; settemp--; EEPROM.write (1, settemp); /* write the most recent settemp in eeprom data stoage*/ } if (tempererature >= settemp) { digitalWrite (led, 1); } else { digitalWrite (led, 0);} //else { }; lcd.setCursor(0,0); lcd.print("T:"); lcd.print(tempererature); lcd.setCursor(8,0); lcd.print ("ST"); lcd.print (settemp); lcd.print((char)223); //End tempererature controll //For humidity up / down SetHumidity =; int humidity = dht.getHumidity(); if(digitalRead(HumidityUp ) == 0 ) {SetHumidity++ ; } // add one to the settemp else {} if(digitalRead (HumidityDown) == 0) { SetHumidity--; } // Reduse settemp else { }; lcd.setCursor (0, 1); lcd.print ("CH:"); lcd.print (humidity); lcd.print ("%"); lcd.setCursor (8, 1); lcd.print ("SH:"); lcd.print (SetHumidity); lcd.print ("%"); delay (1); // wait 100 milliseconds EEPROM.write (2, SetHumidity); /* write the most recent settemp in eeprom data stoage*/ //End tempererature controll controll } //analog temperature void getTemp(float * t) { const int analogPin = 0; // replace 0 with analog pin const float invBeta = 1.00 / 3380.00; // replace "Beta" with beta of thermistor const float adcMax = 1023.00; const float invT0 = 1.00 / 298.15; // room temp in Kelvin int adcVal, i, numSamples = 5; float K, C, F; adcVal = 0; for (i = 0; i < numSamples; i++) { adcVal = adcVal + analogRead(analogPin); delay(100); } adcVal = adcVal/5; K = 1.00 / (invT0 + invBeta*(log ( adcMax / (float) adcVal - 1.00))); C = K - 273.15; // convert to Celsius F = ((9.0*C)/5.00) + 32.00; // convert to Fahrenheit t[0] = K; t[1] = C; t[2] = F; return; }

Topic by esumon   |  last reply

Robo-Goat Lives - At least I hope he Will

OK here goes. I work at zoo and I am a self taught geek, (mainly old school). I recently volunteered for a project mainly because I'm too stupid to know that it's not possible :~) Purpose of the program/project To - Engineer, Design and Build an Animatronic Robot Goat for: a Cheetah Conservation Fund in Kenya, Africa. This device will replicate a live goat in: size; appearance; movement; sound and smell (smell supplied by others), that can withstand the sever conditions of the desert, durable, possibly solar powered and easy to transport, setup and operate. Note: Up until this point real goats have been tried but they have not been too successful. They were either too stressed or they were stolen for by locals their meat. Objective(s): To lure Cheetahs into an area and enticement them into a cage trap with a simulated live goat (Robo-Goat), to provide a safe humane and ethical capture of wild cheetahs so that recently acquired state of the art GPS/Cellular tracking collars can be placed on them to help gather information to preserve this endangered animal. Analog Radio Tracking Collars have provided the only way to gather much of the information for many different wild animals. Radio Tracking style of the past has always been a difficult and time consuming endeavor, with old style tracking, large heavy radio collars that broadcast a ”beep” continuously, must be tracked with specialized hand-held radios and yagi antennas. All this to locate an animal being studied. Many times you would have to get close enough to disturb the animal just to find out where it is and then try to track it. Obviously not good “normal behavior” data gathering. The new GPS/Cellular systems track the animal in real time and send back data coordinates on the animals location, elevation, speed and direction as it travels. This GPS information is sent via cell towers, (yes they have them in Africa), to a computer that logs and graphs the movements. The research gathered through these efforts may provide the answers to saving these endangered animals. Project design/methods: #1. Establish parameters Record video & audio movements and sounds of normal & panicked goats Research and study movements and demonstrate what mechanical requirements will be necessary to replicate the minimum needed movements - [DONE]. {Raise and lower head; Look left and right; open/close mouth} Determine movement engine {I'm not sure here} {All of the movements are really axial in nature} {At first I was thinking motors but then there are end stops, control systems, ect. To deal with} {next I'm considering solenoids for the low energy requirements and simple full scale movements, except you cant control the speed} {But now I am becoming fixated on model airplane actuators for low weight, low noise and appendage like joints and accessories} {then I ran across "pager motors" and how they are small powerful and inexpensive some how I don't know where to begin} {can you tell this is all still up in the air?} Throw distance & Speed of movement - [DONE]. {Raise and lower head = 90 degrees of arc from base of neck = 5 seconds max} { Look left and right = 90 degrees of arc from left to right with return to normal center point half way = full movement l-r = 2 seconds max i hope} {open/close mouth = 45 degrees of arc from lower jaw = 1 second max} Repetition rate & pattern {random if possible} Determine audio requirements - [DONE]. {this is easy but requires playback trigger synchronized with mouth} The Cosmetics: Determine body and outer skin requirements – [Engineering]. {aluminum wire frame mesh} {foam sculpted head for low mass} {foam wrap suit for body & legs for low mass} {tyvek skin, airbrushed or penned for low mass} {stainless steel / nylon joints for low mass} DB level of normal and panicked goats - [DONE] {I have determined audio system requirements} Determine control system requirements {clueless at this point} Determine power requirements {I'm thinking deep cell marine battery and solar panels to retain charge autonomously} {amp hour rating for battery and solar charging circuit TBD after R&D; tests} {if solar is not feasible them battery exchange schedule TBD} #2 Acquire all electronic and mechanical parts #3 Create mechanicals Fabricate lightweight frame and skeleton structure. Assemble motion joints and motion engine Assemble and test motor functions Determine estimate of MTBF for spare parts, if any #4 Create & install sound system Edit custom audio media for both normal & panicked goats Utilize 12v Solid State Audio Playback Unit # 5 Create Control System #6 R&D; Testing Test charging and power circuit Final assembly #7 Final test Any help to provide suggestions to get me started on the type of engines would be great. tia

Topic by sharpfocus