I recently got some thin PVC plastic for cheap. I would like to soften it so I could shape it, but I have no idea what temperature to do it at or what to use to heat it. I don't want to spend money. Thanks!
Topic by elliot5445 | last reply
I'm interested in trying to do something with the dozens of old CD's and DVD's. I was thinking of trying to melt the polycarbonate and shape it while it's Pliable. I understand polycarbonate melts at around 150 degrees C, so it's possible to melt in an oven, but is it safe? Will it release any toxic fumes, or does it only vent at higher temps? Also, will it deform\shrink as it cools, or will it hold it's shape? Thanks!!!
Question by Morgantao | last reply
Forgive my ignorance but I was wondering if a sparkler could be used as a heat source for something like soldering or melting small quantities of aluminum? I could use something to bead up the end of a brass rod too. Any idea if that could work?
Question by paqrat | last reply
I just bought a "custom crucible furnace" from a local university's surplus department and I have absolutely no idea how to get it working. It is roughly 4 feet in diameter and 4 1/2 feet tall, it has 6 'coils' of metal attached in series with thick ribbon-y cable at the top. The side has a 'band' that sticks out but as far as I can tell it is hollow.From what I can tell it might be an arc furnace that something blew up in and damaged a bunch of the components. I really want to get it working as I've been saving aluminum cans for a long time and scrap metal so my plan now is to just hook up the cables to my arc welder and see what happens :) but if anyone knows anything about it or where I can go to get more info that would be much appreciated!
Question by bravoechonovember1 | last reply
While writing some nonsense in the fun section I started to wonder... Rock or stone melting is certainly possible but how to do it properly? In India they went as far as melting stone chains... But that was ages ago and the know how is lost now. So how do you do it at home?
Question by Downunder35m | last reply
Http://andthatsthewayitis.net/2011/05/17/salt-does-not-melt-ice/ thought about running a chainsaw to remove ice from roof gutters. rethought that. sodium chloride? corrode metal gutter and hurt plants. mag sulfate? have it on hand, but above link indicates it wont work. would it work if baked to drive off h2o? stuf comes hydrated. calcium chloride? directly on metal?
Topic by Toga_Dan | last reply
I want to do some vacuum forging (from another instructables) and i was thinking about melting milk jugs for it. if i heated them with a blowtorch would it emit bad fumes into the air, as long as i didint burn it? I would do it outside and im 13 so i dont want to mess myself up. if it does make fumes, would a respirator with a fine filter stop them?
Question by awesomeepiceli | last reply
This is the start of an intended discussion about using induction heat to melt glass and other various metal.
Topic by JuxtaposedIToldYouSo | last reply
After moving house I am still living in a big mess of boxes that need to be unpacked, kitchen stuff be sorted and and so on... But with a big garage and proper workspace at hand it is also time to consider my options on how to create my tinker space. I would like set up a small forge later on if the landlord gives permission and that means bot blueing steel again. Which brings me to the problem of heating the nitrates :( My last setup was not only on a different continent but also totally oversized and powered by three big gas burners. This time I would like to go a bit smaller so I can use it inside the workshop. Was thinking of a max of around 8kg of nitrates that need to be heated in a safe way to melting point. Problem with that stuff is that it is not only highly corrosive but also requires quite some time and energy to melt. Using gas on such a small scale seems far to dangerous uless I include baffle plates and add several safe guards, so I would like to avoid the open flame approach here. Only reasonabe alternative that comes to my mind is electric heating. Did some small test last night outside :( Used a 2000W electric hotplate and an old stainless steel pot with about 1kg of nitrate in it. After 40 minutes there was still no real melting happening despited the entire thing padded and covered in glass wool. 20 minutes later I turned it all off and once cooled I found that only about 1cm of solid nitrate was at the bottom. If I would use a suitable container of let's say 20x10x10 cm as a small melting vessel: Could it be sufficient to use a 2000W nichrome heating element (with temp controller of course) in an insulated, forge like setup to melt the nitrate ina reasonable amount of time and be able to keep it that way once the steel is dropped in? Problem is the entire garage is already setup with power outlets and they all go to a single 10 amp breaker. I could max it out with 2400W but for obvious reasons would prefer to have some juice left for lights and other uses. If anyone here already made such a thing it would be great to hear how you solved the heating problem without waiting half a day for the stuff to melt.
Question by Downunder35m | last reply
I want to take standard 2-liter soda bottle and join a few of them together into a short column. The seam or joint needs to be able to hold together and be air-tight and withstand some pressure. I want to submerge the bottles in the water, and so the joints must be able to withstand the forces against the outside of the bottles. Anyone tried fusing the edges together again; like cutting the bottoms off of two bottles and joining the two cut edges together to form a double length bottle? If so, how did you do it? Any special equipment? Thanks in advance!
Question by Anim8ed | last reply
I want to know because I have always wondered this. May the electromagnetic force be with you lol.
Question by nerd7473 | last reply
I have found some Galena, an alkali metal ore containing silver and other metals, and am trying to melt it down to extract the silver to use in jewelry making. I have tried to melt some with a mapp gas torch with no success, it does not seem to heat enough that I can seperate the metals. Does anyone know of any cheap and easy solutions to extracting the silver without haveing to build a furnace.
Question by jamesrboster | last reply
Hello. I would like to know what is the melting point for most integrative circuits epoxy molded plastics ? The kind of plastic I am talking about would be the ones used for BGA chips found in smart phone IC's (integrative circuits). I would think that a decent powerful household kitchen microwave should have enough power to melt this type of epoxy material used for BGA IC's. I would like to de-cap the BGA. PLEASE note that I will be using a cheap throw away kitchen microwave to melt the IC and the BGA is not important even if the heat generated damages the die layers made of silicon. This is strictly for hobby purposes. The same question but does anyone know what kind of metal is the bottom part (the tiny metal circles ie solder balls) of a BGA IC made from ?
Topic by victor43 | last reply
I'm trying to make a furnace that can melt metal. I've done a lot of thinking on it, and I decided that I'm going to make an Electric arc furnace for a multitude of reasons. I plan to use an arc welder as the power supply, with two carbon rods as the electrodes, creating an arc just above the crucible to melt the metal. I was wondering if anyone has done anything like this before? I plan to have the furnace body made out of firebrick and refractory cement. Would this pose any problems? Also, how much strain does this put on a welder? Will it need to be shut off after a while due to overheating, or can it sustain it's own? Finally, How much power does a typical arc welder use? (in terms of watts)
Question by tylervitale | last reply
Steel needs to be used and it needs to be able to be taken apart with ease the mold not the ball
Question by Itscrafty | last reply
Im looking for a liquid metal to put in to a vial which will be on necklace that im giving to my girlfriend for her birthday. i was wondering if anyone knew of a metal other than gallium that melted at close to body temp. thanks
Question by wonton | last reply
Simple. i want to melt these cola cans (and beer cans too ! ) so i can use it to cast some stuff. interested mainly in investment casting (lost wax method). need to know the temperature. precautions and possible cases of going wrong. i have an electronic muffle furnace. if it helps.. regards, Chakra
Question by chakra | last reply
I zapped a common red brick with a very powerful beam of light. Here is a picture where you can see the area that was melted. The melted area was actually so hot, it was bubbling! I’m wondering if I should make an Instructable... or is this just too dangerous. OMG anyone?? ~Bob~
Topic by ShutterBugger | last reply
I need the cornstarch packing peanuts so that when the bead is done baking, the cornstarch will melt, leaving me with a filigree style bead. I am using polymer clay to make the bead. I don't want to deal with the mess of melting beeswax in my oven, plus the cost.
Question by alison528
Is it possible to use hot glue as an adhesive for building low temperatue difference (LTD) stirling engines? I was wondering because I do not want to buy epoxy or other expensive glue. Will I be able to use hot glue, or will the glue melt from the heat of a cup of boiling water?
Question by Zippo1234 | last reply
reading a couple posts about reducing styrofoam using acetone. i happened to come across a lot of pieces and need to reduce it, but am not ready to use it yet. what containers ahere good for this , acetone comes in metal cans, many of the instructables say to do the melting in glass, i have seen some say metal,but no specifics. i dont have a glass open top bottle handy yet, but i may if i have an idea of the ratio of plastic to expanded. i thought i saw a video on you tube of a guy using a plastic bucket and storing it in a zip lock bag.I would need to verify that method and the type of plastic first. since most instructables use glass and metal pots. Off to break it up
Topic by escapefromyonkers | last reply
I got a battery powered plastic cutter ( the batteries were used to heat the blade) and turned it into a soldering iron. I thought it being really smart of me, but the power of my 2700mAh batteries is severely not enough to melt the solder for long. Ater 15 minutes' work it simply stops melting, while the batteries are still fully charged, so my charging device simply turns the green light on and refuses to charge them. HELP!!!
Question by gruffalo child | last reply
So if you live in a state that gets snow and ice one area you can never seem to get all the ice off, or the area that seems to build up ice easily is your wipers. Now my idea is like the rear window, when you turn on the defroster it warms up wires inside of the window that melts and defrostes the snow/ice/frost etc. A. Any ideas how I would make something like that, where I could turn on a switch that would be hooked to the battery with a fuse in the line where I could some how coil the wire around or under the wiper to melt the ice on the blade and in the area where the wipers are "stored" when turned off. B. Any different ideas then the one above?C. Any ways to make a roll of plastic or something with the wires held in place?All thoughts, ideas, diagrams and explanations welcome =)
Topic by oddie1212 | last reply
So I've been experimenting with building a mini foundry made out of steel cans. I've experimented with several different fuels, fuel injection systems, oxygen injection systems, crucibles, and different metals. However, the only metal I've ever been able to melt with it is zinc. (if you don't know, zinc doesn't take alot to melt; only about 700F) My target metals are aluminum and copper, but despite over a year of experimenting, I've never been able to melt either. I would like to know what I'm doing wrong, or what I could do better. Here's the rundown of the furnace's construction: The fuel I'm currently using is propane. The foundry isn't big, (you could fit it in a backpack) so I just use propane canisters for torches with a normal output line on the end. The line runs to a small piece of glass laboratory tubing with a tiny nozzle on the end which is about 1 mm in diameter. The propane shoots out as a stream and mixes with air utilizing the venturi effect. The propane mix then shoots into a large metal pipe about 2 cm in diameter. It then bends up at a 90 degree angle and enters the furnace, which is in essence, a steel can with a hole in the bottom. inside this is a steel can cut in half with a thick wire through it to suspend it above the burner. So what could be improved? When I run it at full blast, the whole furnace glows orange, but no metal melting happens...
Question by tylervitale | last reply
I´m on a budget and looking for a compound that can either be poured into a mould like plaster or is at least very soft and hardens in a short time without massive shrinking. (low temperature melting metals -> too heavy, plaster -> not rigid and hard enough, epoxy -> too expensive)
Question by Fypsigon | last reply
Can anyone help me clean my dremel bits? I recently bought a grinding set for my dremel to use on my Traxxas car. After using it on the plastic chassis most of my grinding and sanding bits are covered in plastic. The reason is because the plastic heats up when I use it and the plastic melts onto the grinding stone. I thought of maybe using a lighter to maybe melt the plastic off but it just burnt the plastic and a bit of the stone. It's not that the bits are expensive, I can afford $2 but the gas to go the hardware store is just too much for a couple of bits. I would just use my bike here and there, but it just becomes a hassle go over there every hour. Thanks
Question by halo99 | last reply
Is it possible to take a low heat spread over a large area and convert it into a high heat in a small area? For example a normal fireplace can't melt cast iron, but 2 or three create enough energy. Could you concentrate that? (thats just an example, I have a much more brilliant plan) Thanks
Topic by LinuxH4x0r | last reply
After a decent search, i haven't come up with much. So, does anyone know if i can put fiberglass into clay to make it stronger after firing? or would it re-melt into a bunch of tiny glass rods with no structural integrity?
Question by kretzlord | last reply
I'm melting Styrofoam w/ acetone and wanting to put the goop in a gear mold; however I'm not sure what material I should be using for the mold. I was originally going to do it in ABS plastic, but wasn't sure if the polystyrene would glue itself to the mold as the acetone evaporates. So I was thinking of aluminum or possibly stainless steel. Your thoughts?
Topic by Spaceman Spiff | last reply
My house was built in 1915 and we are replacing the windows to get better efficiency. Now I have all these weights. I can have them thrown into a landfill but that seems like a bad idea. I've seen people doing things with homemade forges but I don't have one. Would these be useful? Could they be melted down? Or could they be toxic?
Question by Bitter73 | last reply
Hello, Does fusion welding of mild steel with either acetylene or TIG result in the same metal structure; is all melting the same ? Here is a rambling explanation of why I am asking. I wanted to start acetylene welding again but have found that the gas prices here in the UK are even worse than I Imagined. So, I thought to buy a TIG welder : I will be mostly welding 1.5mm mild steel sheet. I used to enjoy fusion welding with acetylene and hardly ever used filler; does fusion with a TIG welder result in the same molecular/chemical structure as acetylene ? The reason I ask is that, I looked at hundreds of online opinions about TIG fusion welding of mild steel and generally they all said not to do it as it will cause the surrounding metal to be brittle; but they were proper welders doing proper structural things; I am only doing scultpures and all of of my stuff from 20 years ago is still holding . . . so if TIG melting is the same then I will go for it, Thanks
Question by FriendOfHumanity | last reply
I've tried several times to get lost PLA investment casting to work, but it never turns out great. In the photos you see an attempt at casting some 3D printed pulleys. Interestingly enough, the one furthest from the sprue turned out the best, but there are still pieces missing and the details aren't as good as they could be. I used 6061 scraps for the melt. I've tried adding a bit of boraxo/boraxo+salt. I've tried without it. The mold was made by using 325 mesh silica and plaster of paris about 45 to 55% respectively. This produced far better details than with play sand, but still not great. After casting the mold I let it sit for 12 hours or so, and then baked it for 2 hours at 350 F, and then 2 hours at 500 F (upside-down), and then put it in the propane BBQ grill for 2 or 3 hours at max heat. I then blew out the ash using a can compressed air. In this photo I even kept the mold heated until just before pouring, and then I put it into the furnace until the top level of aluminum re-melted. You can see that I have several vents (2 for each pulley) and a very large sprue. The sprue fills quickly before anything comes out of the vents. Once the aluminum melts I set a timer for 3 minutes and allow it to continue to heat before pouring. Any advice is welcome from those with experience. Also any photos or videos of how you've made it work would be great! The pulley's I've printed are from http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:343343.
Question by als_liahona | last reply
I have some tins that I want to strip but they have powder coating. I've tried heavy duty strippers and a sander and a 9" wire wheel sander none of which work that well. Any suggestions? The 9" wire wheel did remove some of the paint but it also burnt or melted the metal faster then it removed the paint. Those cookie tins are thin.
Question by threadbare | last reply
I love demolishing things for parts. Often a broken AC motor is left over. Usually it contains a decent amount of copper. But the copper is mostly deeply embedded in iron (a core or a ring around it made out of stacked steel plate). Since it has been put inside the iron there must be a method to take it out. Copper prices are very high. If it can be separated quickly without melting the whole thing down, I would consider doing this myself. How?
Question by BobS | last reply
It was in the waste, I recovered it. weights 34 kg (75 pounds) diameter 24 cm (9.4 inches) length 80 cm (31.5 inches) capacity 30 liters (7,9 gallons), working pressure 200 bar (2900 PSI). hemispherical ends medium hard steel Maybe I could make a crucible for melt aluminum, copper, etc, cutting 15 cm from the bottom. But for this it is a little big. I am waiting some suggestion. Thanks in advance!
Question by rimar2000 | last reply
I am making a waste oil furnace/foundry and don't want to have to use charcoal to ignite it everytime, so I am thinking of buying a 15000 volt neon sign transformer and using nails or tungsten TIG electrodes to ignite it. Would this work? I can't find any places near me which sell tungsten TIG electrodes? I was worried about using nails because I think they might melt from the tempature of the flame. Is that true?
Question by snowluck2345 | last reply
I am looking at the cheapest way to begin casting pewter with the lost wax casting or with creating rtv silicone molds and it looks like dental wax is generally the same as jeweller's wax. I would like to know if this product looks suitable for carving for lost wax casting: http://dentala2z.co.uk/PRE10379/en I would of course melt it to make blocks to carve from. It looks like it would do the job, carving wax seems to be really expensive in whatever form. Im also looking at using silicone and corn starch. thank you
Question by lsadwdwadw | last reply
I have just had my third microwave shut down on me! This stainless beauty, that grilled all meats & vegees, poached a perfect egg, baked brownies and cakes, heated drinks, made popcorn, defrosted everything, and more just died. I checked the fuse, its OK. I searched for any type of loose wires or parts, nothing. All is clean and new looking. The schematic shows two switches in the door, a heat sensor & flame detector, and more, but how to test theses parts? Has anyone done this before. I hate to landfill this. Its probably a simple fix but where to start? Thanks , Triumphman ( Pro Member)
Question by triumphman
Hi ... I would like to ask fro help to find the proper ENGLISH word/name for what I'm looking for. I would like to make a plastic handle (for a knife) and a holster. My grandpa had a stuff for this, where he moulded it, put the metal part of the knife handle inside and left it to become hard. I have found something like the POLYMORPH but I'm just a little bit concern - wouldn't it be to soft ??? Or the low melting point ??? The stuff that my grandpa used became hard as a rock. And when you wanted to remove it, you had to break it ... and it breaks exactly like rock, glass (it wasn't soft). Thank you in advance for any suggestions.
Question by zholy | last reply
I have been working with my friend, setting up a small IT business in our local area providing some software but mainly hardware. Now that I have a furnace and it can melt aluminium my friend has asked me to cast a case for his computers. He said that he will produce a wooden copy of what he would like it to look like, then give it to me to cast. I am wondering how I can convert the wooden copy into a wax copy so that I can continue from my own knowledge. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thomas
Question by thomas9666 | last reply
I've built a hho generator (the spiral electrodes kind) and am trying to use it as a welder i use salt as my electrolyte (should i use something else???) THE PROBLEM IS THAT WHILE I DO GET A CONSTANT FLAME, I DON'T GET A BIG ENOUGH FLAME (it melts metal but it takes ages to do so) does anyone know of a way how i could get more amps to speed up gas production or of any way i could get more preasure (+maybe my gas isn't pure enough because i use salt as an electrolyte, could that be it?)
Topic by CrtSuznik | last reply
I have an old Etch-A-Sketch Animator from 1986. The rubber membrane buttons barely work now. I would love to take this apart and clean out the buttons but the security screws in this are very weird - a funky kind of three bladed thing for which I have never been able to find a bit/driver. It's not Tri-Lobe, Tri-Wing or Tri-Groove. It's a standard pan top screw with three slots, separated in the center by a tiny "triangle". The slots come together much more closely than Tri-Groove. The ends of the slots closest to the center of the screw are more shallow than the edges closest to the diameter of the screw. A Tri-Groove might work, but I don't think the driver is going to clear the outer plastic housing. If anyone knows where I can find a bit to remove these, I'd appreciate the help! As far as advice on improvised removal techniques: Dremel techniques or any kind of "use a pair of dikes" technique won't work here because the screw is recessed by about 1.5cm in a channel that is maybe 1mm wider than the screw head. I'd like to avoid "Melt a pen" techniques to avoid damage to the casing and/or getting a pen permanently melted into the shaft. Besides, with the size of these screws (1/4 inch head?) and the age of the device, I doubt a Bic pen will have the torque necessary to pop the screws. (Keeping that under my belt as a last resort, though.) Links to a recommended Tri-Groove set with plenty of differently sized bits would be awesome as a second to last resort. There's so many and I'm a bit out of my element.
Question by inanis | last reply
So Im not sure of the capabilities of the fresnal lens in terms of maximum temperature but I've seen them melt brass. I was thinking with a solar death ray on top and a charcoal fire on bottom that I could get temperatures to melt steel. I have drawn a rough sketch of the overall Idea I really need someone to further refine this idea into a working schematic that I can create when I do I'll document it all and relay the results on here to help others recreate it. Now This setup will be behind my greenhouse on the corner of my property on the side that would be hidden from the sun, however if the base pivots on an axel I'm thinking of using, then it will be able to catch the sun from all the points when it's most useful. In that I'll also have the fresnal lens on a pivot bar to help get it on my focusing lens which will be a plastic and water style parabolic lens my only concern is that if I can't turn that lens will it hinder my project entirely or will it be fine, plus I'm not sure about focal point on this kind of lens. On the sides of the frame I'll build for the fresnal lens I'll have strings attached for turning on the bar and I'll be able to lock it in place to keep from fires around my smelter.. Hopefully! Overall dimensions may appear small in the drawing but the fresnal lens should be at about I'm guessing at roughly 25 feet off the ground, or roughly 7.5 meters and the focal point in the middle will be found and adjusted to the fresnal in terms of height. I think it was roughly 1 meter so I'm not sure entirely I would love some feed back on this idea as I plan to make a smelter with it to complete my in progress foundry I'm building in my shed.
Question by Kaelidian | last reply