Car Mods

Has instructables ever considered featuring some of Mightycarmods videos/DIY's? They are getting more and more popular every day! If you haven't seen them, check out their youtube channel:  http://www.youtube.com/user/mightycarmods?feature=chclk It's entertaining and very helpful and has saved me money so far! What do you guys think?

Topic by jmacman12 


How do I turn tap lights into blinking led lights?

Please help! I found a Youtube video of a deadmau5 head with led lights from rave gloves moded to regular tap lights. Only the user who made the head doesn't tell you how he did it. Does anyone know how it's done? Thanks for you help. Here is the link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I809lwRceb4?

Question by Rindo   |  last reply


TV SHOW casting motorcycle owner for customized PC case mod

Hi there! I'm working on an amazing TV series for History Channel called Counting Cars, and I'm reaching out to anyone, who is interested having their motorcycle made into a PC case mod on the show! Counting Cars is an automobile customization and restoration show spun off from the highly rated Pawn Stars, featuring Danny Koker and his shop, Count's Kustoms. We are gearing up for our third season, and would love help spreading the word to anyone you think would be interested! Happy to answer any additional questions you may have, please email me at countingcarscasting@leftfieldpictures.com Best, Amy

Topic by CustomCarsTV 


Green car mod roundup

Treehugger has a nice roundup of mods that people have made to their cars to make them more efficient or run on alternative fuels. They even included the Honda Accord that runs on trash in the list, which is pretty cool. Other mods include wood-burning cars, biodiesels, wood-burners, solar-power, hydrogen, and aerodynamic enhancements. Check out the link for the slideshow. Note: there are 17 slides, not 17 cars. 17 DIY Cars Hacked for Fuel Efficiency

Topic by fungus amungus   |  last reply


Ceiling fan generator mod to the max

I stubled upon several mods to convert a standard ceiling fan into a more or less usefull generator.So if you are looking to go this route then I might have some nice improvements that can be implemented.People like these mods for some weird reason, despite the fact that it requires quite a bit of extra work to make them weather proof.However, when it comes to the fundamentals then to me it looks like some folks out there are missing out.On the available power that is...Always the first step for a mod like this is to replace the induction ring with a lot of magnets.Second step usually is to remove a lot of the coils, especially the inner ring.Now, these two stator designs are common for fans with two speeds.Those with three or even reverse might have a different configuration!Lets start on the magnet part:The recommended way of placing the magnets is by creating an air gap as small as possible - makes sense.But then it is always the same amount of magnets as there is coils - and the spacing is also the same as for the coils.In the general generaotr design world this configuration is prefered as it allows for the best performance.If you dare to go a bit further and cosider how the magnets react to the stator configuration then you might want to consider a different option.You see, these two sets of coils for two different speeds mean just one thing:A different amount of poles is created, with the outer ring having more poles than the inner ring of coils.The core is split around the coils, not just to allow the windings to be made but also to provide independent paths for the magnetic field - resulting in the two pole configurations.Amounts differ by diameter, power level, manufacturer and so on.What is always the same is that the inner ring has less coils and that the outer segments of the poles created have even spacings.In the normal mods you see posted these gaps in the core for the outer ring are closed by inserting lamitaed pieces from some old transformer.And you end up with ONE usable coil configuration and ONE power output.The slightly advanced mod uses the inner coil to add some load depending on the speed to prevent spinning out of control in high winds.If you try a normal DC motor with permanent magnets than you will notice the strong binding forces, it is like the rotor sticks in certain places.The better ones use and uneven configuration to reduce this binding effect ;)In my mod the magnets are selected in size to almost be the same length as two stator poles next to each other.This allows for the best induction while still allowing "to experiment".Bringing the magnets and the coils into play...As said an exact match of the number of magnets to either coil ring is not ideal.The prefered option is to go somewhere in between.For example:Outer ring has 18 coils then the inner ring will have 9 coils - exactly half.360° divided by 15 make a nice 24 degress per magnet.But with 12 magnets you get an even 30°, which is far easier to deal with.16 magnets at 22.5° is another option.So, what does that exactly do for us?The bad thing is we get slightly less performance if you only see the standard mod with one coil ring.The good thing we get far lower binding forces and through that the thing will even spin in very light winds.Adding both coil rings with a suitable rectifier however results in a pulsing output of two sine waves.With just the rectifier we get a ripple that is easier to deal with through a capacitor.The extra power available is in the range of about 40% and make more than up for the "reduced" amount of magnets.Going the extra mile once more ;)Having created a much fancier ceiling fan mod now you might wonder if there is not a way to get even more out of it.And there is.For example by utilising a gear system or belt to get a far higher rotational speed on the generator than what the blades would provide, prefably then with quite big blades too and an automatic break for high wind conditions.With the reduced binding forces the generator will be happy to spin at quite high speeds in low winds.Downside is that you will need to build a far more sturdy bearing housing.In return though you get more stability and durability.You can do the math yourself based on the number of poles per ring and magnets to get the output frequency based on the RPM's.Perfect would now be to use a switch mode power supply configuration to directly transform the provided output into a stable DC per ring.And yes, it is possible to use mechanical systems to provide a fixed output speed from the blades to the generator - but way to complex and lossy!Lets do some lame math with no regards to realities:If the original fan would spin at 100 RPM at full speed than we could say our generator should provide the mains voltage at about 100 RPM.Keep in mind we utilise both coil rings and not just the high speed one!Geared and with the blades spinning at 100 RPM we might get as much as 1000V from this little generator....And even with the lower amount of magnets we migh see frequencies above the 500Hz range.The good thing now is that normal iron core transformers can still operate at these frequencies.A bit lossy in the upper range but acceptable for the purpose.Put simple: A 10 or 20:1 transformer per coil ring would provide us with a far more suitable output voltage and much higher amps.If you made it to here than you certainly wonder about other magnet configurations.Checking the stator configuration you will by now realise why I selected the magnet lenght accordingly.The magnets "activate" one coil after the other.The spacing between them means there is always some overlap where the magnets only cover one half of the stator for a coil.This is ok because we don't really have to worry about the resulting messy output.Ideally though you would want to have a magnet activate both coils, the inner and the outer at the same time.What we did though was to make sure that at no time more than ONE magnet fully covers more than ONE coil!It is the best option to cover both coil sets while minimising binding effects and increasing the avialable output.To go the last step you would need to invest a lot of time re-winding all coils :(You don't want to do this unless you have the means and no friends and family that might miss you for a few days....I found a far simpler way to change the coil configuration, although it is not as good a re-winding.So let's go full scale shall we?Ceiling fan reconfiguration!If you take the usual 18 to 9 configuration than one thing jumps to mind reight away: 3-phase power!Cutting the wire that goes from coil to coil might not always be possible and if it is then you need to know how to handle it.Magnet wire can be hard to solder.Burning the coating off results in corroded copper that is even harder to solder.If you are lucky though than a reall hot soldering irong will be able to melt the coating.The flux from the solder will start to cover the wire from the cut and the solder will follow.If not then using some fine sandpaper and time is the other option to remove the coating...Ok, you seperated all coil and have two wire ends per coil?I hope you did not cut off the ones going out to the actual connections to the outside world ;)Properly solder each wire end and take your time to check it is really proper and not just a few spots.Mark or number the coils on the rings!For the inner ring we have 9 but need only 3, so we start at one connection to the outside world and check if this connection is on the outside or inside of the coil.For this example I assume you picked the one that goes to the outside of the coil.Connect the inside wire to the outside wire of coil number 3, assuming we start with 1 here ;)From the inside wire of 3 you go to outside of 6 and the inside is you first new output connection.Do the same with the remaining 6 coils and where needed add the required output wire.It really helps to have wires with three different colors here, one color per new coil set.Note which color corresponds to to the three coils used!!!The outer ring with 18 coils is sightly different here.You see, we want a "flowing" magnetic field that makes best use of the new coil configuration!We can not simply bridge them in any way we feel like without considering how this might affect the electrical side of things.As we now take the approach of a three phase system it makes sense to use a more suitable magnet configuration as well.So before go to the outer ring of coils lets have a look of the best option for the magnets first:The stator packs are evenly spaced in our example and will alow us to use 18 magnets.This provides the best performance with the downside of a higher binding effect, but we need this configuration to get the best possible output.As said at the start I selected magnets that are just shy of being the same length as the corresponding stator segments.In a "free" setup these magnets would now be quite hard to place in a makeshift ring.Even harder in the original casing.A 3D printer certainly helps but some common sense too ;)Wood is easy to work with and if you select the right stuff than making a suitable ring to hold your magnets and attach to the drive system metal parts is not too hard.Bar or brick type magnets can be quite easy be utilised on a wood setup :)The key is that you add Flux Capacitors - sorry couldn't help the reference to Marty....What I mean is to add some magnetic material between the north pole of one magnet and the south pole of the other.Lets say your magnets are 15mm long and have a spacing of 5mm.Then a little plate of 12mm would be next to perfect.This plate needs to connect the magnets on the backside, the side facing away from the coils.Use a dremel tool or what you have to first create slots for the metal strips or bars, then the same for the magnets.Glue in the metal first and once set add the magnet, making sure the always go north to south with their alignment.Ok, and what does this do for us?I hope you are not one of these persons who starts building while reading...What we created now is a shortcut for the magnetic forces.The field between the magnets is severly compromised in terms of being usable for the coils.We do get a much soother run though...I only did that to have some fun and check if you paid attention - sorry :(What we really want is an effect similar to what you see on a loadspeaker magnet that is still in its metal shielding.A ring magnet with one pole on the inside and one on the outside is used here.The shielding provides a path for the magnetic field that is not going through the speaker coil - hence the little air gap for the coil.If we do the same then our efficiency will be going up quite a bit.Take two identical steel parts, like some butter knifes, and prefarbly a force gauge.If you try to pull your magnet at a 90° angle from the blade you will get a certain reading for the required force to lift it off.Most people now think that this would be the max a magnet can hold.So take the other knife and place the magnet between them.If you pull the knife off with the gauge now the reading will be higher than what you get from just the magnet ;)Taking that to our model and keeping the field lines in mind we now know that we could even use slightly longer plates if our magnets happen to be a bit short :)Just place them right behind each magnet !Back to the outer ring of coils....With 18 magnets we get an even system for both coil rings.However we want to make sure that our output waves are syncronised and not at random order.We need to combine two coils to be back on a 9 coil configuration as on the inner ring.The other option is to provide two sets of outputs for outer ring, resulting in 3 3-phase outputs.Both have their pros and cons....But if you check the 18 magnet configuration ina ction over the coils it becomes clear that combining two coils the usual way is possible but also that our inner ring does not get a proper north south action from the magnets!Only the outer coil ring works properly!For the inner ring we never get only a north south combo, instead a lot of mixes.Did I mention to read first? ;)Of course we can only use 9 magnets in our configuration, but at least I did not traick you on their size....You see, we need to account for the fact that the coils are not just evenly spaced but also that all configurations in terms of coils to stator pack are doubles or halfs.Makes a lot more sense if you know how these asyncronous motors work :)With 9 magnets we actually get both inner and outer ring coils activated properly.Plus we now have the benefit that there are always twoouter coils in sync with each other.Means apart from the same way you wired the inner ring you make this addition to the outer ring:"One" outer coil is created by going from one coilinner connection to the outer connection of the second after this, skipping one coil.The resulting output is again just 3 phases but with double the output voltage.The key is to again take notes of how you connect and wire the coils - and the colors used for the output wires!Let me give you an example for the correct order:I we take the number 1 coil on the inner ring then coils number 1 and 18 would be next to it on the outer ring.You want to combine 1 and 3, 2 and 4, 5 and 7,....And you want the resulting three coil packs and wires colores to correspond to the inner coils in the same order!That is true for the always same way of combining coils from the inner to outer connection - or the other way around but never mixed!Ok, we have done the magnets and the coil configuration now properly, no jokes this time!With two simple 3-phase rectifiers we get two DC outputs that can be combined or used seperately.As we end up with roughly double the output voltage on one output but all coils are the same it makes sense to treat them independly.For those who wonder why:If you add a load than one coil system would take a higher loading of it.Meaning while one coil set is stll fine the other will already start to overheat - if the load is too great.So we use two rectifiers with some filtering.In the basic form just a really big electrolytic capacitor of suitable voltage or a full LC filer system with multiple stages.Either way we can now utilise some better DC-DC converters to get going.Considering the equal max watss the coil rings can handle it make sense to include some current limiting.A good converter will provide this option.Both converters can now set to the desiered output or with some added protection diodes and adjusted properly to the same voltage combined for just one DC output.Compared to the standard mod of removing coils and bridgning stator packs the resulting output power in overall Watt will now be about 40-60% higher - depending on the model and quality of parts.Special words of wisdom:Consider the orignal max speed of the fan when used as intendet - see this as a theoretical max output that equals your mains voltage.Just ignore losses and such things - better to be safe than sorry.It becomes clear that it quite possible that your output will be far higher than mains voltage and that you need use transformers for the two 3-phase systems so you can use standard DC-DC converters, which have a max input voltage of around 50V only.This means your converter must be able to handle the higher amps!The fan might have only used 100W or less than 500mA but at high speeds and a ratios of lets say 10 to 1 for the gearing high wind speeds might get it up to over 5 amps on the transformer outputs.Please do the math first for your gear system in relation to the max wind speeds you want to use with your blades!If in doubt use a converter that has some reserves to offer, especially if you aim to charge batteries as quickly as possible.The most vital part however is to ensure that all previously cut wires are isulated properly!!!Magnet wire of the standard kind is good for about 1000V max, so don't drive it higher!Heat shrink with a hot glue liner is prefered but hard to apply in these thight spaces.Since nothing moves consider using long enough wires for your connections so you have enough space to solder without affecting the heat shrink tubes.Liquid insulation or rubber is the last option and should only be used to finalside the heat shrink security measures.Best option once all is confirmed to be working fine would be to make a custom mold and to fully enclose the staotr pack and wires with casting resin or an insulating casting mix.Make sure to keep the output wirese free at the their ends ;)What if I don't want to build a complicated three phase rectifier and just use a single phase system as it was?Firstly chances are your coils are already connected in a three phase configuration, just all in series.But working out a suitable magnet configuration to suit this is much harder if you want to use both sets of coils.In a series configuration like the original you also have to accept the losses from these connected coils.The higher the overall resistance the lower the possible output ;)Main problem however is to get the magnet working properly.The standard 9 or here even 18 magnet configurations still works, especially with the added shielding from behind.But the coils also produce a magnetic field, which grows with the load.Means that an top of all you also have the coils working against the magnets and create even higher losses.Explains why the simple folks prefer not use the inner coil set if they go with a single phase system.So either accept the losses and just use the outer coils or do it fully and get far mor output.And by the way: a 3-phase rectifier modlue is only a few cents more than a standard bridge rectifier ;)Ok, and why do I bother to write all this?People like to tinker but most don't really invent.Following some simple instructions is easy, trying to work it yourself much harder.The reward however is that you actually start to know what you are doing :)And what works for a ceiling fan can be used for these ring style washing machine motors too ;)Anyways...We need to get back our roots.Start thinking for ourself again, work things out instead of just looking them up.If people would be aware that a simple ceiling fan could provide about 3 times the output power of its rated installation value instead of only just about half......Super strong magnets allow real output even without re.winding all coils.And what works here works for other things too.We only learned to use magnets in a striaght way because we can not bend them.But we can bed the magnetic field lines to our advantage!The simple shielding used in this mod is nothing more than a shortcut to enhance the field strenght where it is is needed.By a simple coil modification we basically bet two electrical generators for the price and size of one.Apart from stating how easy it would be to place multiple stators and magnet rings into one generator the magnets itself also allow for even more output.If you ever played with hook magnets or speaker magnets then you know how much stronger they are compared to just the magnet once they seperate after hours of fun for you.Imagine you would replace the single bar magnet with two block magnets that are joined by a magnetic shunt like out simple shielding before.If the magnet blocks now would have a slightly smaller footprint than your individual poles:Imagine you create a hlaf ring shaped magnetic connection between the two blocks that also goes aruond the outer perimeter up to the outside of the magnets surface?I mean the surface facing the stator poles?Damn your imagination is good, yout it right away!Of course we would then have a magnet that allpies its full strength focussed onto each pole of a coil!And of course the resulting field would be far stronger than just using the magnet blocks itself and still significantly higher than just adding a shielding or connection between them.The affect of the next coil coming is also drastically reduced, which in return also increases the efficiency.In terms of numbers:If a fixed neodymium magnet would provide us 100$ field strength as the base point with no shielding (just the magnet blocks alone);A fully shielded and connected system, like in a hook magnet combined with a U-style magnet, would reach above 400% here.....Adding witchcraft to the mix ;)Although I know better I just assume some of you have now a working double-three-phase-ceiling-fan-generator.And that would mean you also have some fans to spare from your long experiments.Modern ignition coils seem to have nothing in common with our ceiling fan or resulting generator.So why do I try to use them anyway?For the ignition only one polarity is prefered so the spark works and travels as intendet.Means the "wasted" energy from the othe half of the pulse seems to be lost.The electronics do a lot here but magnets too ;)The core of the coil has magents at either end, turning it into one long magnet that still has the right properties to act as high voltage transformer system with the coils.The coil appear to be pre-loaded and with the ignition pulse it has to overcome the magnetic field pre-set by the magnets.And when the electrical impulse is off the same magnets also accelerated and increase the resulting fall back impulse - which provides the spark.Unless you have a suitable laser cutter or simlar cutting tech available somehow it will be hard to modify the metal plates of the stator.But if you could...Imagine you could add magnet inside the plates that are inside a coil.The same pre-loading would happen.Does not really help in terms of adding outpur as our rectifier would suffer badly here.It does give ideas though...Shielding works fine for the magnets, same for field shaping.Electromagnets use the same techniques...So why not use some leftlever transformer cores to add more "shortcuts" for the coils?Strips of transformer core sheets added either side of the coils increase their field strenght and result in better output!Three packs either side of the stator pack are usually no problem.Now take your leftovers and do a standard mod.Compare the max output on the same windmill with what you get from my mod(s).The only real magic I used here is that I actually bothered to combine multiple and already used methods to drastically increase the available output of an otherwise utterly useless generator mod ;)Warnings:If you take the above mods serious and to the their extreme than it is imperative to make sure you have safety measures in place!Assume the lowest rating for the magnet wire and if in doubt stick with a max output voltage of 800V.These mods are potentially lethal if you don't follow what is common sense to everyone dealing with high voltages for a living!Most people will start without any gearing or belts and use the wind directly.Even here it is easy to get far higher RPM than what the thing ever did under your ceiling.Without some fixes you will need transformers to reduce the output voltage accordingly.Only other option is to limit the max speed to what your DC-DC converter can handle.Making mistakes with mangets can cost you a lot of time and work, make sure to mark their poles somehow to prevent putting them in wrong.If in doubt then double check!Always keep in mind what the magnet wires and your connections can handle!You don't want any arcs or overheating.Some added electronics to monitor wind speed, rpm's, load and temperature of the coils can turn out vital once you upscale.Before letting your new generator do its thing make sure you tested all to the max!Use a drill or so to speed it up and check the limit regulation for the converters.Measure the actual volts and amps going through your coil sets at assumed max speed and max load.Monitor the coil temp while doing so to ensure nothing is out of limit!You are kidding me here right?A scrap ceiling fan shall provide more output as a wind generator than what was used to spin it as a fan?And of course I need not one but two 3-phse transformers...Pretty clear it is all a fake because nobody could replicate any of it unless limited to what the converters can handle...Didn't I say to think outside normal restraints already?A single phase transformer uses two coils in the most basic configuration.For example one side for 240V and te other for 12V.But some of them are more efficient than other ;)A 3-phase transformer uses 6 coils, two for each phase.And there are plenty of standrad transformer cores out there that would allow us to use this configuration.The worst being the MOT, or microwave oven transformer.Very lossy for a reason but good as an example as these have three core stems ;)Now that you see that you will that a lot more transformers actually allow you to replace the two coils with 6 ;)Ok, but why not use a rectifier first and not use a transformer or two at all?The resulting output voltage will without a gear REDUCTION be much higher than what a cheap DC-DC converter can handle.And at such speeds the effiency would be very bad too.You would need huge capacitors of good quality to deal with the now more impulse like output.And considering the primary side of the transformer does not require anything thicker than the wire on the coils of the fan...Not hard at all to find some suitable tansformers to salvage - or to use some nice ring transformers ;)No kidding around, just facts and possible options you might want to explore.Does that now mean I get free energy?Sure, if you mean you get the free nergy from the energy of the wind at no cost.No if you think a ceiling fan could ever power your house.Internal resistance, size and wire/connection properties set our limits.Not to mention that they are designed to be dirt cheap.If you are in a windy region and assume a realistic 300W minimum output from a 100W fan then adding more stage multiplies this.These fancy upright windmills are not just powerful but also would allow to use one modded fan either end.If big enough and with enough wind force throughout the year you could just add a second or third stage to ech end.With 3 on both ends the resulting output would then be suddenly 1.8kW per windmill....And all from scrap parts with only the costs for the magnets...No wind? Then use water....None of it? Get some greyhounds and build a big hamster wheel :)You get the general idea I hope...

Topic by Downunder35m   |  last reply


Is it possible to mod a traditional sofa into a sofa bed?

I have a traditional couch and a pull out couch (sofa bed). Both are great, but the traditional couch is more comfortable. Can I take the internal part that is the sofa bed and put it into the frame of the other couch? Anyone have any suggestions on how I can do it if that's possible?

Question by abcommendatore   |  last reply


Any way to mod your bike to make it go faster without an engine?

Is there any way at all to make your bike go faster? I'll take any idea u got, but GIVE ME A IDEA!!! it's april break, and i am bored!!!;_;

Topic by MathGuru   |  last reply


How would you do a step by step tube mod to a Big Muf Pi?

I want step by step instructions on how to do a 12ax7 Tube mod to a Big Muff Pi. I also want a wiring diagram, supplies, things you'll need, and anything that will help for the project. Thanks

Question by andrewc9 


I have 3 devices under my car connected to my exhaust, but I dont know what they are or what to do about them?

I have 3 devices under my car connected to the exhaust system. Im unsure about what they are, what I can do about them, or how I can modify these to make the car louder,lighter,and less restricted. The car is not broken and doesnt need repair, this is about modding it. My biggest concern is the last device (3rd picture), because it is big, and most likely heavy. I know the exhaust system will restrict the engine, I also know that the exhaust system has a muffler and a catalytic converter. So my question is   What is this device in the back? How can it be removed/bypassed/replaced/modified to be louder lighter and less restricting? And if I cant do anything with it, what can I do? (the devices are in order from closest to engine to farthest)

Question by fastcar123   |  last reply


How to achieve professional glossy paint job on my NES? Answered

I want to achieve a really great gloss finish on my NES, but I'm not sure the best way to do so. For the most part the NES is completely smooth, but has very minor textures on it . I'm also not sure if there is a particular type of gloss paint that would work better to achieve the results I'm looking for while working with ABS plastic. I've included photos of the results I'd like to achieve. Photos are of CustomNesGuy's work.

Question by Mirksy   |  last reply


Can someone please do an 'ible on a Honda Ruckus Gy6 swap?

I am crazy N00B to doing moto mods, but I love the honda ruckus and would love to be able to do the Gy6 swap to a 150cc engine with the extended back end...maybe even a fat boy design.  if someone could give a breakdown on how to do that and all the possible mods, explaining their function?  That would be awesome and rock my world.  Thanks!

Question by coopgrl88   |  last reply




Are you a fan of Top Gear? - BBC Casting for new car mod show

Are you a fan of the show TOP GEAR? BBC Worldwide Productions has a new car customizing competition series that is casting in Southern California! We are looking for teams of two to transform their own ordinary cars into the most extreme madcap vehicles, before putting them through their paces in off the wall and outrageous challenges. You bring the personality and car, we'll do the rest. All you need is a great personality and a great story about your car, and you'll have a chance to win ultimate bragging rights and a cash prize. To meet with casting directors in July, email the following information on both you and your teammate, reply to: bbccarchallenge@gmail.com - Names of team members - Occupations - Hometown - Brief description of your relationship to each other - Brief description of your relationship to the car - Photo of each team member - Photo of the car

Topic by TopGearhead   |  last reply


anyone please help me if you can design a 3d model for printing

I need help making the 3d design for a 3ds shell not a case but the shell

Topic by -Tykora-   |  last reply


Kite-Biking? Street Luge Meets Kite Boarding Meets Tricycles

(WARNING: If I or anyone else should try this or try to recreate the idea in any way, please be safe, wear full body racing gear Like for motorcycles and such. If I do this I will definitely try to be as safe as possible.)Okay so I was fooling around on the net and ran into Turbo Pro Tricycles. http://www.primepedalkarts.com/resources/2007picturboyellowbig.jpghttp://www.primepedalkarts.com/turboproyellow.html They have a Demo Video that's about 20mb if you'd like to see some action with it. Anyway, as soon as I SAW the Trikes, I was thinking EXTREME. Basically the bikes steer like Luge boards, except you pedal them to make them go, not gravity. Well The bikes have a 'Free' gear which is used for coasting, and I was thinking with some modding, This could be an ATV or street beast (Permitted that these would be allowed in your area). Just add a Kite and steering system with the mandatory trike mods to follow (A list at the bottom) and you'd have a new (I hope) extreme sport 'KiteTriking'. I'd keep the pedals functional if possible so that when not skirting around on Kite-power you can pedal around. Although a completely other idea might be to try to motorize it electrically. (someone come up with a concept?)The mod list would most likely have to include:Some appropriately sized metal alloy wheels with racing or All-terrain tires to match.A reinforced chain or complete replacement.Brake replacements or modding to make them more efficient.Adding an Emergency Break.Reinforcing the frame.Changing the seat to a more sturdy, ergonomic one.And changing the pedals to aluminum ones.Kite mounting and emergency release mechanism.Some sort of rear storage space.

Topic by kojimagtr   |  last reply


Unique Ride? Share Discriptions and Pictures Here

This forum is for discussing the current mods on your car, ideas for customizing your car, and pictures of the changes if you have them on you. This forum will also discuss any and all changes to your car that you had a part in (having someone else do it doesn't count).

Topic by Dr.Paj   |  last reply


Flame-throwing scooter

Gotta love this so-not-street-legal mod to a scooter that shoots 15-foot flames out the back. Just a push of the button and WHOOSH! The creator, Colin Furze, can even change the angle if he wanted to. Aside from being illegal to use the biggest downside is that the flames can come back at him if he isn't careful. Wheels on fire! James Bond fan invents flame-throwing scooter via geekologie

Topic by fungus amungus   |  last reply


Any of you more seasoned build-o-philes have tips, mods, or tricks for an 8"(or any size) drill press? Answered

I was recently given a very well taken care of 8" Craftsman 1/3hp 5 speed drill press. It works fine, but it's a little grimy. So I'm currently cleaning it. Actually I wanted to ask someone if it's okay to clean that gunky layer of grease off of it because the grime has mixed in and it's essentially "sanding" the post. If it IS okay to clean off, do I replace it with different or newer grease once it's been cleaned? Also, ever since I was a kid, I was captivated by the swirling grinder or polisher pattern on the drill press table. Mine has a thin layer of rust on the table. Is there any way to remove the rust without ruining my beloved swirly pattern? So to wrap up here is the list of questions... 1. What are some modifications, tips, tricks, jigs, etc. for an 8" Benchtop Drill Press? 2. Is it okay to clean the grease off of the entire machine? If so, do I regrease it afterwards? What's the best product to use? 3. Is there a way to remove small layer of rust off the table without compromising the original swirl pattern? ANY and ALL help or suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thank you Instructables community!!(That made me think of a town whose entire population was comprised of Instructables members. Ha! Got a question about robots? Go to Ted's three doors down. Building a welder from car batteries? Oh Tom two streets over would be more than happy to help! I know...ridiculous.)

Question by Mister Wolf   |  last reply


wich material or substance shoud i use to mold and make Panpipe

Greeting sorry for my poor english... i want to mold and make panflute like this one: click i'v already made it from wood and molded it with silicon. now, the problem is, since this panflute has contact with lip and mouth, so it shoud be made of a hygienic material wich is harmless for health. this material shoud also have an acoustic mod, like wood or bamboo to some degree. so please tell me wich resin, epoxy or materials shoud  use? cheers

Question by wubian   |  last reply


What is the easiest way to make a automotive bulb blink, similar to a strobe!? Answered

The bulb in question is a automotive 12 volt GE 904 wedge bulb.  Other bulbs could be used of course as this would be a simple mod.  And, yes, i know you can just buy car strobe kits, but I am trying to utilize what I have access to.  Our local scrap yard, which has several dozen cars in it allows free picking, so.... Anyone recommend what out of a car circuit I would need

Question by iminthebathroom   |  last reply


Electric Motor Tricycle 6V4.5Ah

I bought a riding toy for my son and it's cool, but it doesn't have enough power sometimes.  It's fast enough in the house, but it gets stuck outside.  The plastic wheels tend to slip on rough surfaces and inclines, but I can address that issue at the wheels/tires to some degree.  However, the battery that came with it is a 6V4.5AH/20HR sealed lead-acid rechargeable battery (It has F1 contacts, so unless I change or adapt the wires/connectors, I think I need to stick with a battery that has these).  The AC-DC adapter has 6V DC 500mA output, but I think I could get a UNIVERSAL AC DC ADAPTER {1.5V 3V 4.5V 6V 9V 12V 500mA} that would work with a new battery. I'm hoping that I can increase the power noticeably but safely.  One constraint is the width of the battery area inside the "engine" compartment.  It fits the present battery (1.75 x 2.75 x 4), but I'll have to mod the compartment to fit a replacement that's more than slightly bigger. I've seen some 12V4.5AH batteries online, but most are larger in every dimension. Am I even on the right track thinking a higher voltage battery is what I need?  Could I use an NiMH or Li battery/batteries instead? What's the easiest, safest, cheapest route for this mod? Thanks, Dan

Topic by danhorowitz   |  last reply


Could a conventional oven be reused as wood burner?(Cross posted from Burning Questions)?

Has anyone ever burned wood inside an electric or gas oven? I was thinking of modding and oven with refractory cement, and a water mist sprayer,for bread baking, when it occurred to me that broken gas/electric ovens are cheap, mostly air tight and temperature resistant,to say the least. Obviously burning wood in them is not an UL approved usage, but clearly these devices are tested a lot more than your average barrel stove design.. So, any experience with this idea?

Question by Ronyon   |  last reply


Is it safe to put a really powerful lamp in a 2000 lumen DLP projector?

I bought my Mitsubishi SD205U projector used. Eventually, the bulb is going to fail, and I want to know some stuff before it dies. I plan on buying an LED, driver, and heatsink off of Ebay, and modding the projector to use it. The best lens I can find it 60-80 degrees. A bunch of the light will go into the projector, will this damage anything? And other than the wasted light, will it hurt the image quality? Next question, can I put a much more powerful LED in it without damaging anything? Finally, is there anything I should know of before attempting this project?

Topic by laptopdude90   |  last reply


i-pod webcam/ camera thing?

I recently got a shit webcam from my friend and took it apart and noticed the color of the wires were awefully similar to the ones on my ipod connector i recently had to rebuild. They both use USB! I spliced them together and while doing so, I thought to myself "self, how could i run it once i'm done? My question is, the rockbox program for ipod puts its programs on ipod nanos to play video, why not use this hole in the ipods security and replace the rockbox files with a webcam program to make the webcam attached connector functional? Thanks, instructa-fan

Topic by instructa-fan   |  last reply


Do It Yourself Genetic Engineering

From New ScientistKATHERINE AULL's laboratory in Cambridge, Massachusetts, lacks a few mod cons. "Down here I have a thermocycler I bought on eBay for 59 bucks," she says, pulling out a large, box-shaped device she uses to copy short strands of DNA. "The rest is just home brew," she adds, pointing to a centrifuge made out of a power drill and plastic food container, and a styrofoam incubator warmed with a heating pad normally used in terrariums.In fact, Aull's lab is a closet less than 1 square metre in size in the shared apartment she lives in. Yet amid the piles of clothes she recently concocted vials of an entirely new genetically modified organism....Read the whole article in New Scientist

Topic by kelseymh   |  last reply


can I use two 24 volt ac stepper motor wind generators connected together to charge a 12 volt battery

STEPPER MOTOR SAIA 24VAC 60Hz 1.5W MOD # UBR2UG4D30CNN3E       * NOS   * Model # UBR2UG4D30CNN3E   * 24Vac,    60 Hz,    1.5W   * 009,    30s,    3.9uF   * Dimension: Diameter 1-3/8” x Depth 3/4” here are all the specs i could find not too sure what they mean. i read somewhere on the internet that it would be best to use a 50 volt one, so i was wondering if i connected them to together positive to negative like in a solar panel or all the + to the + and - to the - on the battery if this would work. i know you need to change the ac to dc

Question by chocsoya   |  last reply


Broken Scope Update: Transistor testing? Replace blown ones with commonly available equivalents? or BER?

So in a previous question, https://www.instructables.com/answers/My-oscilloscope-died-How/ I have stated that my oscilloscope died, and listed the symptoms. Since then, I have popped the cover off, had a look inside, and was I found inside what certainly appears like a "mod," it goes off to the 3 by 3 connector I have mentioned also. I forgot to mention a small blueish purplish wire was next to it, similarly just sticking out the scope. I figure it is a MOD because it is: A) precariously mounted to the transformer with only one small nut on the transformer B) Has so many bodge wires crawling around on it, that it looks more like a cobweb (and w/o silastic or hot glue for vibrations/stress) C) Sloppy soldering and flux residue left behind indicating hand soldering D) The PCB has a very different appearance than the rest of the boards inside; No solder mask, greyish white, and no silkscreened values, parts, or numbers. I traced both the wire and the connector and ribbon cable to the same mod board, which clearly got toasted. There was a small orange wire tangling off that board, it it broke off before I even realised it. Luckily the pictures show roughly where it was connected. Tracing the blue wire back to the board, I discovered it is connected directly to one of the cooked resistors, and I think the other cooked one was in series with it. The only connection found to the main board is the orange wire, and there are ceramic capacitors in series on that crappy looking PCB, indicating it is capacitively coupled. I was Hoping that what had happened was the blue wire came into contact something it was not supposed to, and shorted the output of that chip causing it to catastrophically fail, knocking out power to some of the boards. Unfortunately did not appear to the the case, and the supply voltages seem OK. Nothing appears obviously burned out on any of the other boards from what I can tell. However, just today I have discovered that some driver transistors, which are mounted to heat sinks, are getting unconfortably hot to touch. I suspect they may be blown, by the blackening and discoloration around them on the PCB.They themselfs do not appear to have any physical damage. I will desolder them and connect them to a transistor tester I have to see if they register as operational. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ As for some additional questions, can I replace those weird looking obscure transistors with standard ones? I am not sure of their exact specs, the only datasheets I can find for "2SA818" and "2SC1628" are some scanned PDF datasheets that are not in english, and I certainly could not find replacements online for them. I have the gut feeling radioshack is not going to carry them either. :P I hope this is not Beyond Economical Repair (BER), but used analog scopes can be bought used for around $30-$70, and of course I am on the verge of getting something better than that.

Question by -max-   |  last reply


How can I improve the proformance and appearance of my 2011 Mitsubishi Lancer ES without voiding the dealer warranty?

Im looking to improve the appearance, performance, handleing, horsepower, torque and the "get up and go" factor. I cannot make a permenent modification (or one that cant be removed without showing little signs of it) because that would void my dealer bumper to bumper and/or powertrain warranties. I do know things can be done without voiding the warranties that would give me some results, however I dont know what they are. I also cant afford major upgrades due to lack of money. please tell me what, if anything, I can do to put the "street car" edge on my own car

Question by fastcar123   |  last reply


Can I etch a PCB in the winter...? Answered

I want to etch a PCB, but it is rather cold where I live. I had settled on the HCl/Peroxide mix, but I could use something else if need be. I wouldn't be worried about it, except I get the impression it's a good idea to carry out the reaction outside, where it is cold right now. If working outside in the cold is a no-go, is there any etchant that is "safe" (I understand that safety is relative, I mean along the lines not immediately gassing me) to use indoors with ventilation? If so, how much ventilation is needed? Are we talking an open window, or an industrial fume extractor? Also, I wasn't sure which category and channel would be the best, so if a mod or somebody sees this and has a better classification, go ahead and change it. Sorry for making this such a long question; I'd just like to be able to use my circuit board before I die ;). Thanks, dedgerton

Question by dedgerton   |  last reply


AAA solar batteries acting weird? Answered

I recently got a bunch of solar garden lights intended for a different purpose of course ;) During the modding stage I made a simple wireless charger for one of the lights an it worked as intended. However, while testing the light and how long it works I got a bit confused. The battery states 300mAh (NiCd), which is fine for a single LED solar light and a small cell. The light uses between 6 and 10mA, depending on the current color. With my dumb calculations I would say a fully charged battery should last around 30 hours - 24 at least. But after 8 to 9 hours the light goes off and the battery is down to a low level. Being dirt cheap I tried the same again with a good 1000mA NiMh battery, which otherwise does a good job in other applications. The 1000mA battery lasted 3 days, which again is way short of the calculated target. At this stage I suspect the Joule thief used in the solar light is the culprit as my own circuits don't show this problem... Would it be worth to get the oscilloscope out to check the actual spikes produced by the circuit? And how would I go with properly calculating the consumption? Being a color changing LED (circuit inside the LED) does not make it much easier :(

Question by Downunder35m   |  last reply


Pre-purchase questions of a petrol-driven electrical generator - cos you guys know best! Thanks!

I have a caravan in a remote location and I've got round to thinking of buying a petrol-driven electrical generator. I'm figuring on using this with an ethanol (E85) fuel. I'd really appreciate some help if you can to any parts of my queries. I have looked around on Google for advice but there's a lot of conflicting stuff as usual and I know you guys are good. My normal max load is around 4,500watts but I have security HID lights which have a huge inductive start for a few millseconds - how will a suitably rated generator cope? Do I always add a 20% margin to the generator capacity so for a 4.5kW load I should get a 6kW machine? Or is it not 20%? Given that the machine will be outside, I don't want to annoy the other caravanners, so if I build a sound-proofing box with just an outlet for the exhaust, could I expect the noise to be reduced signifcantly, given a lot of noise will be coming from the exhaust itself? The machine has a tank of 15litres but I want to increase this safely - how could this be done, if at all? Safety is paramount (naturally) but then so is convenience. Do you have a generator? If so, what do you wish you knew beforehand or any regrets? What kind of maintenance schedule is there and is there a performace improvement for modding the air-intake to a larger filter like for cars and bikes? Many thanks for reading my question and thanks for your time to reply.

Question by kevinhannan 


British pensioner out-does Skunkbait!

WHEN the Smith family want to get away from it all they simply hop on the bus.Father Graham has spent the last 20 years turning his 1968 Daimler Fleetline double-decker into an all-mod-cons base for his wife, Julia, and four sons.He even winches his classic 1968 Fiat 500 car on board where it fits neatly into its own space.Engineer Graham, from Sible Hedingham, Essex, said: "We use it for family holidays and have clocked up thousands of miles in England and France."I have spent a lot of time and money kitting out the bus but it's been worth it - we never pay hotel bills. The children are grown up now but when they were teenagers they loved going on board."We've been to Scotland, north Wales and the Lake District as well as the Loire Valley."The 38ft bus has a kitchen, bathroom and main bedroom downstairs with a lounge, dining area and more beds on the upper deck. Graham, 62, has also kept some of the original seats as well as the ticket machine.The bus has a top speed of 40mph but only does 11 miles to the gallon. However, once they reach their destination they simply winch out the economical Fiat.Julia, 61, said: "We are used to getting odd looks when we are mistaken for New Age travellers."Graham added: "I thought if Cliff Richard could do it in his film Summer Holiday then why can't we!Daily ExpressMail on Sunday

Topic by Kiteman   |  last reply


heliostat and sun tracker basic program

In the late 1980s, I designed, built and programmed a computer-controlled heliostat. Its mirror reflected sunlight into my living-room, making it much brighter. It worked excellently with almost no attention for many years, until a neighbour's tree grew and blocked sunlight from reaching the mirror. The computer was a Commodore VIC 20, which was old even then, and had only 4.5 kilobytes of memory. The program I wrote, in Commodore BASIC, fitted into that space and handled all the control functions. It even included a few "bells and whistles". For example, at night-time the mirror was automatically parked face downward to reduce the buildup of dust. That particular program would work only on a VIC, and I haven't seen any of those for many years. However, I have recently taken the astronomical and trigonometrical parts of the program and made them into a new program which I'll append below. It calculates the position of the sun in the sky, as azimuth (true compass bearing) and angle of elevation, as seen from anywhere on the earth at any time on any date. It also calculates the required orientation of a mirror if it is to reflect sunlight in any desired direction. With the addition of some code to enable the computer to control motors, this could become the software for a computerized sun-tracker or heliostat. I'll append two versions of the program. The first is in QBasic, and contains quite a lot of explanatory comments. The second version is in a very generic BASIC, and has been tested on many implementations of the language. It even has line numbers! Personally, I prefer the QBasic version. The coding is more elegant. However, the generic version is likely to be useful to more people. It's public-domain. Use it for any purpose, even commercially. Enjoy! dow ' SunAlign.BAS (Version for QBasic and similar dialects) ' Calculates position of sun in sky, as azimuth (compass bearing ' measured clockwise from True North) and angle of elevation, as ' seen from any place on earth, on any date and any time. ' Also calculates alignment of a heliostat mirror. ' David Williams ' P.O. Box 48512 ' 3605 Lakeshore Blvd. West ' Toronto, Ontario. M8W 4Y6 ' Canada ' Initially dated 2007 Jul 07 ' This version 2008 Jan 13 ' All angles in radians except in i/o routines DegIn and DegOut DECLARE SUB C2P (X, Y, Z, AZ, EL) DECLARE SUB P2C (AZ, EL, X, Y, Z) DECLARE FUNCTION Ang (X, Y) DECLARE SUB DegIn (P$, X) DECLARE SUB DegOut (P$, X) CONST PY = 3.1415926536# ' "PI" not assignable in some BASICs CONST DR = 180 / PY ' degree / radian factor W = 2 * PY / 365 ' earth's mean orbital angular speed in radians/day WR = PY / 12' earth's speed of rotation relative to sun (radians/hour) C = -23.45 / DR ' reverse angle of earth's axial tilt in radians ST = SIN(C) ' sine of reverse tilt CT = COS(C) ' cosine of reverse tilt E2 = 2 * .0167 ' twice earth's orbital eccentricity SN = 10 * W ' 10 days from December solstice to New Year (Jan 1) SP = 12 * W ' 12 days from December solstice to perihelion CLS Menu: PRINT "1. Calculate sun's position" PRINT "2. Calculate mirror orientation" PRINT "3. Calculate both" PRINT "4. Quit program" PRINT PRINT "Which? (1 - 4)"; DO S% = VAL(INKEY$) LOOP UNTIL S% >= 1 AND S% <= 4 PRINT S% IF S% = 4 THEN END ' Note: For brevity, no error checks on user inputs PRINT PRINT "Use negative numbers for directions opposite to those shown." PRINT DegIn "Observer's latitude (degrees North)", LT DegIn "Observer's longitude (degrees East)", LG INPUT "Time Zone (+/- hours from GMT/UT)"; TZN INPUT "Time (HH,MM) (24-hr format)"; HR, MIN INPUT "Date (M#,D#)"; Mth%, Day% PRINT CL = PY / 2 - LT ' co-latitude D = INT(30.6 * ((Mth% + 9) MOD 12) + 58.5 + Day%) MOD 365 ' day of year (D = 0 on Jan 1) A = W * D + SN ' orbit angle since solstice at mean speed B = A + E2 * SIN(A - SP) ' angle with correction for eccentricity C = (A - ATN(TAN(B) / CT)) / PY SL = PY * (C - INT(C + .5))' solar longitude relative to mean position C = ST * COS(B) DC = ATN(C / SQR(1 - C * C)) ' solar declination (latitude) ' arcsine of C. ASN not directly available in QBasic LD = (HR - TZN + MIN / 60) * WR + SL + LG ' longitude difference CALL P2C(LD, DC, sX, sY, sZ) ' polar axis (perpend'r to azimuth plane) CALL C2P(sY, sZ, sX, sAZ, sEL) ' horizontal axis CALL P2C(sAZ - CL, sEL, sY, sZ, sX) ' rotate by co-latitude IF sZ < 0 THEN BEEP PRINT "Sun Below Horizon" PRINT GOTO NewCalc END IF IF S% <> 2 THEN ' calculate and display sun's position CALL C2P(sX, sY, sZ, sAZ, sEL) ' vertical axis DegOut "Sun's azimuth: ", sAZ DegOut "Sun's elevation: ", sEL PRINT END IF IF S% > 1 THEN ' calculate and display mirror orientation PRINT "For target direction of light reflected from mirror:" DegIn "Azimuth of target direction (degrees)", tAZ DegIn "Elevation of target direction (degrees)", tEL PRINT CALL P2C(tAZ, tEL, tX, tY, tZ) ' target vector X,Y,Z CALL C2P(sX + tX, sY + tY, sZ + tZ, mAZ, mEL) ' angle bisection by vector addition PRINT "Mirror aim direction (perpendicular to surface):" DegOut "Azimuth: ", mAZ DegOut "Elevation: ", mEL PRINT END IF NewCalc: PRINT PRINT "New Calculation" PRINT GOTO Menu FUNCTION Ang (X, Y) ' calculates angle from positive X axis to vector to (X,Y) SELECT CASE SGN(X) CASE 1: Ang = ATN(Y / X) CASE -1: Ang = ATN(Y / X) + PY CASE ELSE: Ang = SGN(Y) * PY / 2 END SELECT END FUNCTION SUB C2P (X, Y, Z, AZ, EL) ' Cartesian to Polar. Convert from X,Y,Z to AZ,EL EL = Ang(SQR(X * X + Y * Y), Z) A = Ang(Y, X) IF A < PY THEN AZ = A + PY ELSE AZ = A - PY END SUB SUB DegIn (P$, X) ' Input angle in degrees and convert to radians PRINT P$; INPUT N X = N / DR END SUB SUB DegOut (P$, X) ' converts radians to degrees, rounds to nearest 0.1, and prints S$ = LTRIM$(STR$(INT(10 * ABS(X * DR) + .5))) IF S$ = "3600" THEN S$ = "0" IF LEN(S$) = 1 THEN S$ = "0" + S$ IF X < 0 THEN IF VAL(S$) THEN S$ = "-" + S$ PRINT P$; LEFT$(S$, LEN(S$) - 1); "."; RIGHT$(S$, 1); " degrees" END SUB SUB P2C (AZ, EL, X, Y, Z) ' Polar to Cartesian. Convert from AZ,EL to X,Y,Z Z = SIN(EL) C = -COS(EL) X = C * SIN(AZ) Y = C * COS(AZ) END SUB 100 REM SunAlign.BAS (Generic BASIC version) 110 REM Calculates position of sun in sky, as azimuth (compass bearing 120 REM measured clockwise from True North) and angle of elevation, as 130 REM seen from any place on earth, on any date and any time. 140 REM Also calculates alignment of a heliostat mirror. 150 REM David Williams 160 REM P.O. Box 48512 170 REM 3605 Lakeshore Blvd. West 180 REM Toronto, Ontario. M8W 4Y6 190 REM Canada 200 REM Original date 2007 Jul 07. This version 2007 Oct 07 210 REM Note: For brevity, no error checks on user inputs 220 CLS 230 PRINT "Use negative numbers for opposite directions." 240 INPUT "Observer's latitude (degrees North)"; LT 250 INPUT "Observer's longitude (degrees East)"; LG 260 INPUT "Date (M#,D#)"; Mth, Day 270 INPUT "Time (HH,MM) (24-hr format)"; HR, MIN 280 INPUT "Time Zone (+/- hours from GMT/UT)"; TZN 290 PY = 4 * ATN(1): REM "PI" not assignable in some BASICs 300 DR = 180 / PY: REM degree/radian factor 310 W = 2 * PY / 365: REM earth's mean orbital speed in radians/day 320 C = -23.45 / DR: REM reverse angle of axial tilt in radians 330 ST = SIN(C): REM sine of reverse tilt 340 CT = COS(C): REM cosine of reverse tilt 350 E2 = 2 * .0167: REM twice earth's orbital eccentricity 360 SP = 12 * W: REM 12 days from December solstice to perihelion 370 D = INT(30.6 * ((Mth + 9) MOD 12) + 58.5 + Day) MOD 365 380 A = W * (D + 10): REM Solstice 10 days before Jan 1 390 B = A + E2 * SIN(A - SP) 400 C = (A - ATN(TAN(B) / CT)) / PY 410 ET = 720 * (C - INT(C + .5)): REM equation of time 420 REM in 720 minutes, earth rotates PI radians relative to sun 430 C = ST * COS(B) 440 EL = ATN(C / SQR(1 - C * C)) * DR: REM solar declination 450 AZ = 15 * (HR - TZN) + (MIN + ET) / 4 + LG: REM longitude diff 460 GOSUB 800 470 R = SQR(Y * Y + Z * Z) 480 AX = Y: AY = Z: GOSUB 710 490 A = AA + (90 - LT) / DR 500 Y = R * COS(A) 510 Z = R * SIN(A) 520 GOSUB 740 530 PRINT : REM AZ & EL are now sun's azimuth & elevation in degrees 540 IF EL < 0 THEN PRINT "Sun Below Horizon": END 550 R = AZ: GOSUB 870: PRINT "Sun's azimuth: "; R; " degrees" 560 R = EL: GOSUB 870: PRINT "Sun's elevation: "; R; " degrees" 570 PRINT 580 INPUT "Calculate heliostat mirror alignment (y/n)"; K$ 590 IF K$ = "N" OR K$ = "n" THEN END 600 SX = X: SY = Y: SZ = Z 610 PRINT 620 INPUT "Azimuth of target direction (degrees)"; AZ 630 INPUT "Elevation of target direction (degrees)"; EL 640 GOSUB 800 650 X = X + SX: Y = Y + SY: Z = Z + SZ: GOSUB 740 660 PRINT : REM AZ & EL are now aim azimuth & elevation in degrees 670 PRINT "Mirror aim direction (perpendicular to surface):" 680 R = AZ: GOSUB 870: PRINT "Azimuth: "; R; " degrees" 690 R = EL: GOSUB 870: PRINT "Elevation: "; R; " degrees" 700 END 710 IF AX = 0 THEN AA = SGN(AY) * PY / 2: RETURN 720 AA = ATN(AY / AX): IF AX < 0 THEN AA = AA + PY 730 RETURN 740 AX = SQR(X * X + Y * Y): AY = Z: GOSUB 710 750 EL = AA * DR 760 AX = Y: AY = X: GOSUB 710 770 AZ = AA * DR 780 IF AZ < 180 THEN AZ = AZ + 180 ELSE AZ = AZ - 180 790 RETURN 800 E = EL / DR 810 A = AZ / DR 820 Z = SIN(E) 830 C = 0 - COS(E): REM Won't work without "0" in Liberty Basic 840 X = C * SIN(A) 850 Y = C * COS(A) 860 RETURN 870 R = INT(10 * R + .5): IF R = 3600 THEN R = 0 880 R = R / 10 890 RETURN

Topic by david williams 


The Newman Motor Challenge !

I was recently approached by someone claiming the old Newman Motor wouldn't be good for anything.Well, I was a little bit offended by this as I already had my little toy version of it as kid.At that time though it really was just a toy for me.Critics still say the Newman Motor is nothing more than some interesting machine.And even the biggest followers will admit it is not a free energy machine, just a very efficient one.I experimented with, what some call fringe science, now for about 30 years.And it all started with math and my interest in unusual ways of dealing with problems.So what's behind the challenge?The original design was suprisingly simple as you can see in the above Wiki link.Just a spinning magnet in a (split) coil.What you don't find anywhere though is real details on the how to.Sure, you need to have some sort of contact linked to the rotation and timing is critical but what does it all do?You can build a drt simple model in a few hours with stuff you might have around already.Quite a few Youtubers are happy to share their creations.The actual challenge is to come up with what Newman really did inside his drum.And also why I think it is not the full potential his machine had.Build a simple Newman motor and check for how long you can let it run on a charge super capacitor.Then sit back and read some of the other magnet stuff I wrote.After that come up with a better design ;)I started to create some 3D models that need testing once I find more free time - should take some leave one day..But for those with little patience and an interest in the Newman Motor I decided to share my current idea:For some it might be really confusing although they know motors and magnetic fields.Those just playing with magnets might have it easier for once as they can pretend they followed my thoughts ;)The original design used two coils and a rotating magnet.If you consider how the magnet creates an electromagntic field in the coils then you have to wonder right away how it can spin.And most designs will indeed need a push start to get going!You can't have electricity produced without the magnet spinning and you can't make it spin without electricity!The current from the battery or capacitor can only flow at the short moment of contact on the axle.This moment needs to be timed "mechanical" as we don't want to waste any power on not required electronics.If you ever bothered to check the timing of a Newman Motor then you realised the collapsing electromagnetic field at the moment of contact actually is in reverse to what the manget has in that position.Unlike any normal motor it means the magnet produces most of the power the coil needs to make the rotor spin!So far for the well known facts, now for my fiction:I would like to call my version the Aussie Newman Motor as all things downunder are just different ;)Here are my current desing mods, that I freely share so everyone can benefit form many years of experimenting to save a lot of time.1. Instead of two coils a not-really-bifilar coil is centered on the axle.The coil is created like two stacked relay coild that have no bobbin and a "dint" to allow the axle to pass through.Without the big gap of the original less of the magnetic field strenght is lost and the coil is far closer to a homogenous magnet.2. The timing done by salvaging a simple DC motor's contacts and brushes.This allows for far higher currents and if the salvaged motor had enough poles also for a very short "burst".3. The axle contact is made with a cleaned steel bearing.After cleaning very conductive copper based lubricant is used in tiny amounts to prevent corrosion and provide a lower resistance.The clear benefit is that with the new timing system a lot more current can flow.Initial tests with a mock up model showed an increase in run time from the capacitor of about 15% already.With proper bearings and a salvaged DC motor I hope to reach 18 to 20% more than the original design.Now why the DC motor if a reed contact or hall effect sensor would be even faster and with less resistence?Neither can handle really high currents without additional electronics ;)Plus of course I wanted to leave the door open for the Aussie Newman Motor 2020.You might now say "Why bother if the above improvements are already so great?".If you followed my elsewhere for a while then you know the Newman Motor is only 2D but I prefer 3D or more harmony if you like.Right now the imagination of people re-inventing Newman's machine is limited.They try to get on the horse from behind - literally.Fancy electronics, machined parts and so on.But they never go 3D ;)You got it? :)There is only two coils!!The magnet rotates, same as the contact on the axle.One set of coils for each contact the salvaged DC motor has.Each set aligend to the corresponding contact.And now you will ask "How do you plan to connect that to a single DC power source?Well, that is why it will be the 2020 model - my time for tinkering is sadly limited because I still need to work to support myself.But if you consider that the original as a good model can run for over 10 minutes on a supercapcitor then ask yourself how long it could run on 4 or even 8 coil sets.And although there is no such thing as "free energy": There will be still space for more coils.Or other coils to just provide electricity that does not power the motor.Critics will now see their chance and state that if we add a load to these additional coils then this will cause a strain on the system.Of course they are correct here.If, however, the load is mechanical then the motor needs to supply basically the same additional energy.Plus all mechanical losses.The question is: How much mechanical load can we add before the motor is down to the same efficiency of a very efficient DC motor? ;)And what if our Aussie Newman 2020 would actually violate the laws of physics?We can calculate how much electrical energy would be required so a given motor produces a fixed amount of torque.Or we can just measure it, the beauty of science...We can do the same in reverse of course.Let's say a mechanical pump would require 500RPM and 100Nm of torque to pump 100 liters per minute.Then we could calculate what sized motor we need to drive the thing and how much power the motor would need.So again: What if the Aussie Newman 2020 would require far less than what science makes us think and still does this job on a simple 12V lead acid batty of 4Ah?Just saying... ;)I hope to have a presentable and working 2 coil system by May, so stay tuned!In case you are faster or even beter then of course feel free to show off your results or to post a link to your Instructable so everyone can verify it.

Topic by Downunder35m   |  last reply