I'm building a solar powered lighting for a farm, what will be the power consumption for a 10 white led.
Topic by yousaf65 | last reply
I have this same solar panel 5 watt 12 volt panel http://store.bruntonoutdoor.com/portable-power/panels-and-chargers/solarflat-trade-5-12v-orange/ And a 400 watt power inverter. What type of lightweight battery should i get? (12 volt, something amp battery)
Question by alpe_97 | last reply
I already asked a question about three-phase power but my results only confirmed what I thought. I don't understand how a MOTOR can run at 230v with three phases, how do they rate power with these I guess. 230v outlets have three prongs, I think two are connected to the generator through power transmission lines, and one is a ground. If this is wrong were do they get 230v because, if I am wrong all three wires connect to generator coils. This would add up to 345v. But to get 230v it would only be two phases. Then it can also run on 480v, how in the world do you get to 480v. Please help me with this.
Question by jj.inc | last reply
Some kind of LED, so that the biking charges the battery which powers the LED? I know there's quite a lot on this site, but I've never done anything electrical, and need help with that. Also, I would like (in order): easiest, cleanest (no lines everywhere), smallest, and best looking one possible... And I need a lot of help with electricity...
Topic by Batryn | last reply
International project. Space station. Geostationary earth orbit. Solar energy flow. Microwave oven generator of big power. Transfer to Earth of energy in the form of a beam (microwave oven beam, microwave oven energy). Geographical point for reception of a beam - the desert. On Earth of the microwave oven energy will be transformed to electric energy. It is offered to discuss this project!
Topic by Vladimir2016 | last reply
I heard about them, but I thought they were a joke.Then I ran across a link.They actually made gasoline-powered pogo-sticks that even grandpa can ride!It's a single-cylinder engine, with the bouncing foot being connected directly to the piston, called the Hop Rod. There are a bunch of adverts and slightly more modern test-drives in a short video on the site.They're... odd.Still, I wondered. Maybe the Hop Rod provided the inspiration for other wheel-less powered transports?Do you remember those Russian boots? 4 metre strides and speeds of 40kph were promised, but that was 8 years ago. According to The New York Times they fell foul of Soviet secrecy and then Russian financial mis-management.They're still around, waiting for some entrepreneur to hop on the band-wagon...
Topic by Kiteman | last reply
Hello all, i'm thinking on a very easy way to support more than 1 power source for my electronic circuits.Below you can see the schematic. It's very basic. Each source have a rectifier diode to disallow inverse currents for each one.When both sources have the same output, both diodes will work and the output is Vin - 0.7When one of them is bigger than the other (the case on the schematic), diode on smaller source will open circuit, and the bigger is the one to be used. The output will be 7-0.7 = 6.3V.The problem i found is when there is little difference, this is less than 0.7V.This way both diodes will work but there is a difference on voltage between the two sources.Do you think that having a small resistance like 10Ohm and high dissipation in one line will solve this?Do you think this design is valid?thanks for the help in advance.
Topic by Tigrezno
One of my friends asked for my help for a project for his school expo. He wants to run a car on water and I have told him not to be too optimistic. when I googled it all I found was that it was not possible(as of now), but no other detail. I did stumble upon an old episode of myth busters in which they came to the conclusion that a car can run on hydrogen, but they were unable to provide enough hydrogen from their electrolysis setup, however, I noticed that the HHO generator created by king of random produces way more gas then theirs. so I wanted to know your opinion and knowledge on this matter and whether this can work or not.
Topic by Ahtasham Ahmad Mohtashim | last reply
Nikola Tesla's grandest vision was the transmission of large amounts of power without wires. His work in this area was abandoned by his contemporaries, and there is still much debate over if it could or could not work. I would like to hear your opinions on this. Do you think it is possible? Would it require only one transmitter, or several, spread across the globe? Would it be safe? Would it be worthwhile? Could Tesla's original spark gap circuit been sufficient to drive it? Or would it be better to use vacuum tubes or solid state setups? Would the operating frequency be very high or very low? Pictured below is how I think Tesla may have done it, based on the information I've seen. It's a bit over-simplified, but to the best of my knowledge, it covers most of what is needed. Please note that, although the transmitter terminals would be at a much higher elevation than pictured, the receiving terminals could stay at a relatively low elevation. This link is to a YouTube video of someone using a small Solid-State Tesla Coil for wireless power transmission: www.youtube.com/watch Edit: I had orriginally imagined that the system would work by capacitive coupling between the Ionosphere and the coils. Afterwards I realized that electrostatic capacitive coupling will decouple after seperation between two plates is greater than 1/2 the wavelength (or, at least in theory), so I personally abandoned the idea. The only problem is that I can't imagine how power would be sent to airplanes. Also, this is a very good read on the subject, from a very interesting site: www.teslaradio.com/pages/wireless_102.htm
Topic by ElectricUmbrella | last reply
Hey, I'm making a 'Glove' Taser using a disposable camera and I wanted to know a few things which most people who read this will laugh at. Firstly, I wanted to put a stronger battery into it and wanted to know what the best battery to use was, keeping in mind that I wanted it to be hidden so I can't use C or D batteries or anything like that. And secondly whether by soldering more wire strands to my contact points (the hurty bits) whether it would carry a greater charge? ie, if 5 strands of copper wire carries 'X' charge then maybe 15 strands would carry '3X' charge. Any help here would be a huge bonus and when I make my Instructable on my Glove Taser I'll give credit to anyone who tried to help me XD
Topic by grantdevine | last reply
I am putting my christmas tree on the ceiling this year. But I want to make it rotate. The only problem is to get the lights to come on I have to plug it into the wall. How would I switch the tree from using ac power to battery power?
Question by viv664 | last reply
I have a dolly cart and motor, and I want to motor to move the dolly cart as slowly as possible (It's already four RPM, but just take that into account in the method you recommend). I need one of the inner/vertical wheels to be spun by the motor. Both the cart and the motor are pictured below. I am using this for time-lapses, so it should be as consistent as possible. What is the best way to connect the two parts so the motor spins one of the wheels?
Question by sblaptopman | last reply
Hi this is my first post here :-) I'm a Design student in London currently researching power-tools. I've made this really crude prototype of a system that looks at enhancing the vibration of a power-drill by vibrating the user as they pull the trigger on the power-drill. It consists of a 12v 55AH car battery running through a 300watt 12v to 230v inverter which in turn powers a cheap 135watt 230volt orbital sander. It's all mounted to a British Army paratrooper clansman radio pack frame and has a very crude wooden arm with a temp on/off toggle switch mounted inside a vitamin c bottle :-) and tapped with gaffa tape, very much bricolage.... I used what I had to hand and what was cheap, i know it's not safe (yet) but i'd like some opinions on alternative smaller and lighter power sources? I know I could just use cordless sanders but there expensive and i need multiple units 2-3 and as this is only a small part of what I'm doing so cost is an issue. I'm considering looking at cheap 12v battery packs from cordless drills but don't fancy using lithium and blowing myself up? All suggestions and opinions appreciated! Thanks James
Question by le_bricoleur | last reply
I've been toying with the idea of trying to build an electric generator that after receiving initial power to start, could power an electric motor that would in turn somehow power 1 or more generators and would not only produce enough power to continuously power the motor, but also allow it to distribute power for use with an inverter or stored in batteries. Am I crazy that I dont see where anyone has tried this or is it just not possible? Obviously, there would be friction forces from the generator(s) on the motor and it may be difficult to produce enough power to even run the motor, but does anyone know of anyone that has tried this? I've been reading peoples posts and really enjoy looking at other peoples ideas on this site and decided to sign up. Thanks.
Question by AggieTX | last reply
I have a Honda XR2600 power washer. The problem that I have is the engine stops running after a few minutes while spraying. Installed a new spark plug. A new gas cap. Put in fresh fuel. I can use the power washer for only a few minutes and the engine will stop. Any help appreciated.
Question by GeorgeB240 | last reply
I want something to power LEDs from (I want to stop fussing about the polarity), preferably cheap and compact (I've no intention of buying a lab power source to play with it once in a fortnight, and I don't have the money). I thought about mobile phone chargers, laptop chargers and model railway power sources (I own one of these), but they are all DC. Can you think of something? PS Is it true that a motor connected to an AC source would stay still?
Question by gruffalo child | last reply
Hey guys/girls, I need some assistance. for my Year 10 metalwork major, im going to attempt to make a jet engine powered gokart. I need some assistance with the plans for it. I need to find a way to make a gokart frame, acceleration and brakes, and a working jet engine powerful enough to propel the kart. any ideas are welcome, no matter how weird :) cheers
Question by Shadowwalker2551 | last reply
The main purpose of this Project is that to design a system that convert the mechanical energy harvested from human motion into electrical energy.This project report contains the complete literature review and implementation of an alternative to electrical power supplied by batteries for portable electronic devices and for computerized and motorized prosthetics. The report presents the idea to generate power harvesting from human motion. Electrical devices have been liberated from the wall socket. Battery powered computers, phones and music devices come along everywhere we go. The limiting factor is electricity. In the end the battery always goes dead. Ironically, when we move around with our portable devices we produce a lot of energy. But a lot of this energy is lost as heat. If that mechanical energy could be converted into electricity, our very mobility could charge our mobile devices. Using the working principal of dynamo, we intend to generate a small power which then can be used to charge the portable devices. We are charging mobile battery for testing purpose.
Topic by engr.zainshah | last reply
Power beaming is just another way to say solar climbing. This is a competition hosted by The Spaceward Foundation. The end goal is to design a structure that will transport material from Earth into space without using rockets. The competition requires you to build a climber with the specs that follow:"net weight is limited to 50 kg [110 lbs], and they must ascend the ribbon at a minimum speed of 2 m/s. [6.6 feet per second] carrying as much payload as possible. A high performance prize will be awarded to teams that can move at 5 m/s. [16.5 fps]"Remember, this must be solar powered. Doesn't matter who wins this is an interesting engineering project, can't wait to see what people come up with.Anyone interested?
Topic by lamedust | last reply
Hello, I followed a great instructable here to make rgb led bars. It uses the ledwiz controller. I wanted to shift it over to an arduino controlling the thing. My main problem is that the leds I have is that they have one power lead, and 3 grounds to control the color. how would I get that to work with an arduino? Thanks ~penguins
Topic by penguins | last reply
People, I need your help! I'm a student at college and my primer subject is physics. Let's just say I know enough about electricity and power. But my major obstacle towards constructing stuff is electronics. I have only just scratched the surface of it. I want to make a power source out of a coil and a magnet inside (electrical induction). Can anyone point out how exactly to build the thing? My desired output voltage is about 5V, or sth. I'll use it for electronics, so the amperage doesn't really matter. I would also like to see a circuit that converts AC to DC, cause the coil will give out only AC and that's not good. Thanks in advance!
Topic by 5ar | last reply
I haven't seen anything this on here so I thought I'd step up. Engineers (or anyone who fancies themselves A DIYer) I found a few days back I little some very interesting Wind Powered Rides...six-or-seven-ways-wind-powers-vehicles OK so we know it CAN be done, but can it be done by a DIYer? OK here's my concept, Design and shape are optional but basic components are such: Take a pair of multi-speed Bicycles, their gearing will be the basic propulsion for this vehicle. Take one of the "bikes" and hook up a prop where the pedals "where" and set the wheel output to be higher then the prop speed, this should take care of the foreward movement once going. Now for the initial starting power (Bike 2), this can either be by petal, or by electric (solar/battery- up to you) But the basis for this whole thing is simple energy transfer, if the moving air over the prop causes the drive wheels to go, and by having them geared higher, the vehicle SHOULD move faster the faster you go ..Right? Can I get some math to back this up? it sounds like it would work.
Topic by Green_Primus | last reply
Via The UberReview"It is not too often that we associate solar-powered with anything fast and or furious, but perhaps it is time that we start. The Czeers MK1 is a 10-meter vessel covered in photovoltaic cells that is capable of hitting speeds of up to 30 knots (55.5 km/ph to you non-nautical folks out there). While there are certainly faster boats on the water, those tend to use obscene amounts of fuel. The solar-powered Czeers MK1 is naturally going to be a lot quieter than its gas guzzling cousins, which would make it great for sneaking up over fish (though there is limited space to put them if you catch them. I would like to see a similar model with little bit more space for passengers, even if it did mean sacrificing some speed. Speedboats are so limited in what they are able to do, but if this had a little extra space, it could do so much more."
Topic by laminterious
Im looking to make an electric scooter for a school project, and im on a bit of a budget. I need to know what kind of motor i can get to move a scooter with a person and electronic weighing around 150 pounds on it, while still fast enough to go around 10 mph.
Question by thekasspell | last reply
I want to replace the motor in my dremel for a brushless one and i just need some help in deciding which one to get. I also want to possibly upgrade the motor in my drill. The drill is only used for wood and i don't mind if either the drill or the dremel needs some kind of gearbox to get the most power from it. It would also be nice to know something about larger brushless motors as there doesn't seem to be much about them on the internet. Thanks in advance.
Question by monty324 | last reply
So I was riding my small razor scooter to school (the kinds that fold up and fit in a backpack) and thought "it would be really cool to make this thing run with a motor." After I got home, I looked at it and thought of a way to make it work. If you put a small rubber piece on the end of the motor and lay that against the wheel right behind the break with some pressure, you could probably make it go pretty fast. The thing I was wondering is what is the smallest motor I could use and still have it work at about the same speed as me pushing with my foot on the road? 50 watts or so? I only weigh 125 pounds and would like it to work with 150.any suggestions? I would like to not have to use a car battery, with all the balance issues and such.
Topic by trenzalorian | last reply
Hello from Arizona! I'm switching my career from Computers to Medical and will be taking an EMT course. One of the things you MUST be able to do is take blood pressure. To do so, however, you need to be able to hear the pulse through a stethoscope. Unfortunately, I have a slight hearing deficit. I've seen the KipKay video and would like something like this, but it needs to fit (sorta) into a regular stethoscope format. I can't have external boxes & wires hanging off of it. Would someone be so kind as to help me lay something out with suggestions on parts, etc.? Commercial versions of this start at $250, so if I can get away w/it for <$50> or so it'd be great! Thanks for any help. Scott, Lake Havasu City, AZ
Topic by sellenwood | last reply
I live in a converted bus made into a mobile home in Outback Australia. I'm currently building a 'Solar System' so I can go anywhere without relying on hooking up to mains power. The biggest problem I'm having is finding an 'Inverter' that will handle power consumption to run my 'Fridge' and ''Air Conditioner', I have a 2500w Inverter but this can only run an 'Aircon' up to 300w, so tell me where you can get one that runs at this power level !! I have an idea that may get over both problems (Fridge and Aircon). I was looking through 'ebay' and found a 80L Fridge/Freezer that runs on 12v, mainly used for 4WDs and RVs. I'm just wondering if I could somehow carefully drill a hole into the freezer cabinet and coil copper or aluminum small bore pipe around the internal walls of this, then have a small 12v DC Pump circulating 'Antifreeze' or similar through a external radiator with fan blowing through this into my living area. I know this will be a drain on batteries as the freezer will be constantly running due to the warmer return fluid circling around inside the cabinet, but I'm not really worried about this as I will have 4 Solar Panels totaling around 500w production at 7-8amps and 4 Deep Cycle Batteries rated at 100ah each, total 400ah. Will this setup be efficient as a air cooling system without effecting the frozen food in my freezer too much. Would love to here any comments on this and also any suggestions will be gratefully accepted. Regards Keith
Question by Keefe | last reply
I have an old Dayton electric motor I pulled out of a lab blower. (I have no idea how old it is, I pulled it out of my grandpa's bottomless basement.) It looks like it still works, but I found it with no wires or anything attached to the terminals. (All of the internal connections look good, however.) So, here's the tricky bit, how do I run power to it? I copied everything off of the label on the motor, and I'll post it on the end. I've got very near to 0$ in the project bank, so the cheapest I can possibly do this the better. I don't need anything nearly as sophisticated as speed control, or anything like that. Here's the info from the label: model: 5K261 HP: 1/3 RPM: 1725 V:`115 A: 5.4 Hz: 60 Time Rating: Cont. Temp. Rise: 48C PH: 1 Frame: 56 Brgs: Sleeve Code: H S.F: 1.35 S.F.A: 6.0 Amb: 40C No.: S60CXCDY-4065 Insul: Class: A Thermally Protected: AUTO I'm not quite sure what I'm going to do with it yet, that depends largely on how well it works.
Topic by Helioskannon | last reply
Here's a question for you laser cnc builders out there, how much laser wattage would you need to cut really thin aluminum? Like, only slightly thicker than grocery store aluminum foil. Very thin. This cnc machine would be used to cut custom theatrical gobos (GOes Before Optics) at home. Normally, when we need a new gobo design, we build one in Adobe Illustrator and send off the design to Rosco or some other professional cutting company. But this can get pricy, and can take up to a week, so if one gets messed up during tech week (they do sometimes) we have to cut a new one out by hand. The results are not spectacular. The gobo doesn't have to be mechanically strong, and they don't warp inside of a 525w fixture due to the cool beam. You could in fact use foil, but that's a little too thin to be useful. Any guidance would be appreciated.
Question by ModeLocker | last reply
Have you seen the videos for Flugtag? It looks like a great excuse to build something fun and jump in the water, and maybe fly a few feet too.Most of them look like this: And here's the US record holder, at a whopping 155 feet: I bet we could do better than that, especially with a drop. ;) Anyone have a proposal for Team Instructables? They hold these things around the world, so it's not just US. I bet we could pick up on style points as well.From the official page:The first Red Bull Flugtag took place in Vienna, Austria, in 1991. Since then, more than 35 Flugtags have been held around the world -- from Ireland to San Francisco -- attracting up to 300,000 spectators. The record for the farthest flight-to-date currently stands at 195 feet set in 2000 at Flugtag Austria. The U.S. record stands at 155 feet set in Nashville, TN in 2007.Teams are judged on three criteria: distance, creativity and showmanship. What constitutes a craft is purely up to the imagination of the participating teams. Past Red Bull Flugtag entries have included a pregnant cow, a diaper-delivering stork, a pimped-out Cadillac, a giant Oompa Loompa, and yes folks -- a lobster named Larry.
Topic by canida | last reply
This is a bike I built a year ago. It uses a 30.5cc (about 1.5hp) weed whacker engine for propulsion. A version of the same thing was on Instructables, and that's what partially inspired me to make this. ;) The engine mounts are made out of wood, because I still have not learned to weld, but they hold up just fine. The engine is an ten-year-old Echo weed whacker. It has 10,000 max RPMs. The bike peg attached is 2" in diameter and gives about 25mph top speed. There is no clutch! The one that came with the engine was way too flimsy for a vehicle like this so I took it out. Saved a lot of space, too. For the throttle, I disconnected the back brake line and connected it to the engine. The front brakes are still intact, and you can turn the engine off to slow the vehicle as well. I added the extra heatsink to the engine to help keep it cooler, as it was never meant for this kind of exertion. It gets as hot as the engine, so I guess it conducts the heat away pretty effectively. There is a 10-LED bargraph to show the engine temperature. It uses an LM3914, an op-amp, and a thermistor. There is also a 555 to drive a buzzer when it gets too hot. The bike has head and taillights that are both driven from a joule thief. They are not very bright; they are more for being seen than to see. Here's a youtube video, taken almost a year ago: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bdySFqmK0Fw Some more photos and a little more information: http://forums.modretro.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t;=656 Comments/criticisms? :)
Topic by 1up | last reply
I use a dewalt 24volt allday at work and every now and then it would be handy to be able to use 240volt mains mainly when i forget to charge the batterys.i have a collection of old unuseable batterys to use as a body but cant work out what transformer and or circuitry it would need. any ideas? cheers dave
Question by wavey davey | last reply
Some people just love to play with magnets and have a lot of them.If you are just like that and like to tinker a bit then I might have something for you.What magnets you use for the following experiment does not really matter but you should have 20 or 30 of identical properties.Can be disk magnets, block magnets or cubes, just not spheres ;)If you have a 3D printer you use it to make it fancy but a peice of wood, acrylic or such and a drill will do for round magnets.For cubes or flat packs you can make retaining walls on a flat surface.The experiment goes like this:I assume you already tried ways to combine your magnets to make them stronger, like stacking them up.But there is another way to really increase how strong they are combined.Start with one magnet at the center.Then like a ring add more magnets around it but with the oppisite side up.The created mounting solution is to prevent them flipping up and together, you want them as close as possible though.Add another ring and change the direction of the field again.Try this magnet, once all magnets are secured and compare the holding strenght to any other combo you tried so far.It will be much higher for the same amount of magnets.If you want to prevent the use of glue then try to create your mounting system with a really flat but strong enough bottom - this will then be the contact surface.Slightly reduced strength but you can re-use magnet with ease.But if you want to get a really strong one you need cube magnets.Like before you want to create some sort of grid, this time we go for a square.Start with cube in the center, facing north up.Leave enough space in your construction to add 8 more cubes around it - like on the face of a rubik's cube.Leave them empty for now !Add nother row, this time 16 to keep the square.Of course these one go with the south side facing up!Again one empty of 48 and then one last one with north side up with 196 magnets.Ok, to be fair, you wouldn't be able to pull it off a metal surface unless you used really tiny cubes, so if in doubt then go for just to 48 and leave the enter one out for now.Should be quite intense but similar to what any other shaped magnet would have done.Time to fill the voids!Add the cubes in the spce between the magnets so the north and south side face the magnets next to it!So basically sideways but in the correct orientation.You can then also add the center piece - try either orientation for that one ;)What happened now is that you forced the magnetic field lines to go up instead od for trying to go the easiest and shortest way to the next magnet.And "up" is where our magnetic surface would be, which provides the now overdue shortcut for the magnetic fields.Be amased how much stronger this version is and how much even 3x3x3 cubes would accomplish.With 10x10x10mm N52 magnets you might be able to use them support our wieght if you pull straight dwon from a horizontal surface...Ok, kidding, not just might, unless you are really big...One 10x10x10 might hold about 6kg.Stacked up a bit more but having 20 or stcked up would not be much stronger than 10.Even just 25 magnets with one in the center, one row of sideways orientated and one row with opposing field to the center one would be hard to remove from a steel surface.If we go with the imagined 6kg per magnet we could assume to get 25 x 6 = 150kg of holding power.Check you single magnet first then compare to the square of 25 ;)Consider using some plastic between magnet and surface so you can at least slide or pry it off if you have to.You can also combine magnets or a new one that has one side appear much stronger than the other.Meaning that for example on the north side it could hold 20kg while on the south side only 5.
Topic by Downunder35m
I live in Scotland and I have a small greenhouse on my balcony, as the winter is coming and is already quite cold I was hoping it could be a way to have a small heater powered by solar power or wind power. It doesn't need to put out high heat, just enough to bring the temperature so my chilli plants don't die.
Question by pjfsdias | last reply
Are they bare? if you touch them you will die ! is that because it is NOT coated with rubber ? I want to know if something is attached to the wire like a clamp can it feed electric power TO the power line ? If it is NOT grounded but surrounding the wire or clamped onto the wire and hanging from the wire can it feed power TO the Line? If I make a solar panel and hang it on the cable will it do ANYTHING ? or will the power line have so much more power that the small amount from the solar panel wont enter the power line? will it back feed into the solar panel and wreck the solar panel ? Can it be simple ?
Question by Tormentory | last reply
Hi I was playing with some ideas and wonder if it is possible to get power from a moving piece of aluminum. I know, if you tab the alu, you can get the power because to the eddy-currents geenrated if you have a permanent-magnet near... But what if i wanted to get the power NOT from the aluminum, but from the "other" side like the magnet? If i hold a magnet near a moving piece of aluminum, can i get power from the magnet as well or are the eddys only generated in the alu and not in the magnet since it already has its magnetic field? So the basic question is: How to get power with the help of a moving piece of aluminum, but the tab-point in NOT the aluminum but something geometrically separated. Thanks a lot! :)
Topic by Orngrimm | last reply
I was wondering if I can turn an ATX power supply in to a welder: Before I write down the specs/amps of the power supply, I want to say that I have no experience in welding, I'm wondering if it's posssible to make a small welder out of an ATX power supply. Is there some kind of minimum current that you have to pass to start welding (softer?) metals? The lower the voltage the better right? I didn't give a lot of information, Because I don't know what to ask... Thanks :)
Question by Yonatan24 | last reply
I basically want to convert a desktop into a notebook. It won't have a 90W+ under load. I've done it all except for the power source. How can I power things like in a notebook using ni-mh or li-on batteries? I must be able to monitor battery capacity just like a notebook too. I've searched a lot and I'm confused.
Question by __-_-_-__ | last reply
I've got a 12vdc 500ma power supply that I'm using to trigger a few solid state relays. I'm also using the same power supply to provide input current to a little micro PLC (Automation Direct DL05). Both the relays and the PLC have a wide range of acceptable input voltages and their current requirements are about 15ma per channel at 12 volts. The count is 6 relays and 8 PLC inputs, if all are on thats about 210ma. I once killed a similar power supply by allowing the leads to touch and short-out. I would like to protect this power supply from the same fate by protecting it from short circuit. I thought about attaching a reisistor to the end of one lead and covering all but the outlet of the resistor with heat shrink tubing... problem is, it would have to be a big, bulky power resistor to handle the wattage. Is there a simple component available that will limit the current upon short circuit that I can place in series with my loads to protect the power supply? As I said, it doesn't have to be precise and it doesn't matter if it jerks the voltage around a little.
Topic by fluoronator | last reply
This project is for my 8 year old daughter that is in grade 3. She has to build a magnetic powered car (and not from legos or hotwheel type cars), that can go fast or slow, and extra points if the car can turn left or right. I'm at a loss, can someone help please ?
Question by weirdmoss | last reply